STEEL BLACKENING!

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405006]

Hello /diy/

I come from /k/ but I guess this is more suited to you fellas.

I have just finished making a rifle compensator out of A2 round stock. Made it 2" long with a .281 hole reamed through the middle. Then I have drilled and tapped 6 rows of 5 8-32 set screws to fill the ports.

The idea is to be able to "tune" the comp to the specific host rifle. This way if I get muzzle rise, I can remove the a set screw on the top to vent gasses upward and push the muzzle back down. This way all you get is a straight push rearward instead of a flip that throws you off target.

Now, down to the real question. I need to blacken this thing and I'm not sure of the best way to do it. I have been thinking about oil blackening, heat the part up to a light orange and quench in used motor oil.

Anyone else have ideas for a steel blackening formula that yields a good finish, corrosion resistance and is relatively durable?

I want to keep the cost DOWN. Just looking for a quick and dirty way around plagiarizing, as I don't know where to get magnesium phosphate solution locally.

Sorry for the long winded post. Just following the sticky as best I can. More pics will follow if the thread shows interest.

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405012]

God damn auto correct

Parkerizing not plagiarizing

[Anonymous No.405019]

>>405006
Pro tip DoucheAnon: You probably want to state explicitly your material.

Assuming aluminum, but "A2" means 'big throbbing dick' to 4chan

Therefore: 'Black Anodize' your over-machined, under-thought POS

/Nice zip ties, Rookie

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405026]

>>405019
Find me a lighter, cheaper or lower profile way to mount a light.

Also, A2 is a tool steel used mainly in die blocks in the stamping die industry. Moderately rust resistant, easy as pie to machine in the soft state and can be heat treated to very high levels and not chip out.

This will not be heat treated but will be blasted prior to blackening to give a satin finish

[Anonymous No.405036]

>>405026
>Find me a lighter, cheaper or lower profile way to mount a light.
>Redneck all the way Honey boo boo meet preppers stuff.

>>405026

Then why the fuck are you posting on 4chan ?

Furthermore, why the fuck are you crosstapping vent holes when nothing is going to be mounted in there other then a set screw that wasn't needed unless the hole was there ?

FFS Anon

The suppressor looks like a solution in search of a problem

Dont show this around anyone with any gun knowledge lest you be laughed right the fuck out of whereever you are ATM.

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405041]

>>405036

Well /diy/ was helpful...

Back to /k/ with this

>>405036
Google Effin-A

Made by Ares Armor and other than some minor differences, my comp and this one do the same thing with the same build concept

[Anonymous No.405055]

>>405041
yup... was just about to say this looks oddly familiar...

[Anonymous No.405056]

>>405036
>suppressor
Holy shit, are you pants on head retarded?

[Anonymous No.405059]

>>405019
>Doesn't know what A2 is

[Anonymous No.405065]

>>405019
>>405036

jesus christ, you two are massive faggots.

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405068]

>>405065

I'm glad the rest of you /diy/fags are regulating.

These two put a perma-bad-taste in my mouth when it comes to this board

[Anonymous No.405074]

>>405068
Yes

But Still 2 things come to mind :

1) Nice job of tapping holes, only to fill them with set screws for no fucking reason, other than to plug holes that were not there prior.

2) Grats on catching the attention of DHS for your silencer

[Anonymous No.405075]

>>405074
And Grats to 4chan for enabling homebrew weapon development

[Anonymous No.405076]

>>405074
You're a fucking retard. Never heard of a tunable muzzle break before?
You remove screws to tune the barrel harmonics to get better accuracy.
Not all guns or loads function the same so you have multiple holes.

[Anonymous No.405078]

>>405074
Are diy fags really this uninformed?

[Anonymous No.405082]

>>405006
This is the stuff you want OP, it's fucking magic and does exactly what you want - durable black graphite coating, corrosion barrier, the works. I use it on engine parts.

[Anonymous No.405081]

>>405074
Not OP, but first of all, that is a compensator.
Second of all, as the OP stated in the thread, the reason for all the holes is to allow the user to tune the device for their weapon until the desired recoil is reached.
Third of all, stop shitposting.

[Anonymous No.405083]

>>405076
fuck off asshole

remove all & you have DHS knocking on your door asking about your silencer you pos

[Anonymous No.405084]

>>405081
fuck off

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405085]

>>405081

Thank you.

I went this route as opposed to just cutting static vent holes because if I release too much gas in the upward direction, then the muzzle will actually drop when the round is fired. And then I just wasted all that time to make a piece of scrap

[Anonymous No.405087]

>>405076
>>405078
muzzle brake/compensators have larger holes than tapped set screws.

However, silencers do not.

Grats on attracting DHS to this site when you could have kept it in /k/ you fucking retarded assholes

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405089]

>>405087

Yes, fear the big bad Amurikan Gomament.

You pussies need to get outside more

[Anonymous No.405091]

>>405087
What the fuck are you on about. The gas goes out the holes and adjusts the muzzle rise and/or helps with recoil. It is not a suppressor/silencer at all.

[Anonymous No.405092]

>>405089
Big Brother (the same fucking assholes you voted into office ) are coming for you

All my lols

[Anonymous No.405096]

>>405091
S-I-L-E-N-C-E-R

silencer

Enjoy your FBI visit

[Anonymous No.405099]

Wow, there's one mouth-breathing 'tard who just doesn't get it.

>>405082
This is a lubricant, not what the OP is looking for.

[Anonymous No.405102]

>>405074
>>405083

you are still a massive faggot. A massive pretentious butt hurt faggot, who is also a fucking idiot. It's not a silencer, I think op and other anons explained this several times.

[Anonymous No.405104]

Also, I know you're going for lightweight OP, but ditch the cable ties. They are a temporary solution at best.

[Anonymous No.405112]

>>405006
For a phospahting solution there are several other ways of getting the chemicals.
PH down for aquarium or hydroponic use is sometimes just phosphoric acid, make sure to read the label.
Manganese dioxide can be recovered from some abtteries.

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405117]

Did you guys here that?

Sounded like a black SUV pulling in your driveway. And off in the distance...perhaps one of them black-cock helicopters

[Anonymous No.405121]

>>405117

>Did you guys here that?

since when was /diy/ overrun by 14 year old illiterates?

it's "hear", mongo.

[Anonymous No.405122]

>>405091
FLUIDPOWER ENGINEER HERE

the compressible nature of gases developed during the detonation of gunpowder indicates that 'sound" will be dampened with many smaller holes arrayed around the perimeter of the muzzle.
A large single perpendicular orifice is adequate for allowing the gases to compensate for recoil. Further, the larger brake' features present in many aftermarket 'flash suppressors' demonstrate a relatively small audio suppression component, while performing the intended function, namely preventing 'muzzle drift while rapid firing. It must be noted however that many small orifii oriented perpendicular to the projectile's path serve only to dampen sound. The dampening of actual recoil is merely coincidental, as recoil can be accommodated with a much larger path for gases to escape.
TLDR:

Nice silencer you fucking terrorist

[Anonymous No.405125]

>>405117
Cock eater
You doing anything illegal ? no ?
Then you have nothing to fear

fuckin area 51 dope smoking assholes

[Anonymous No.405126]

OP, I'm sorry you need to deal with such faggotry. It seems all of the retards who think they're cool here on /diy/ have congregated to this thread and shitposted the fuck out of it.

Anyways, here's some input:

Oil blackening will no doubt be the cheapest and easiest way to color it. However, it's not exactly rust-proof, but that shouldn't really be a problem for you because neither is gun blue and as long as you maintain the oil blackened finish the same you maintain the rest of the gun, you should never have a problem with rust.

Gun blue is pretty much the chemical version of oil blackening, but it's a little more tough and of course you'll have to source the chemicals. It can be tricky if you've never done it before.

The only other option I can think of would be cerakoting it. It'll be the most expensive, but it's incredibly durable. Google the process, I can't post a link without 4chan thinking it's spam.
Good luck OP, and nice work. I too like machining things and making my own parts instead of buying them.

[Anonymous No.405130]

Get a blackener or bluer from a gunsmith...

[Anonymous No.405134]

>>405121
Mongo like girls. Girls no like Mongo.

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405155]

>>405122
If this is the case, then the BATFE needs to have a little sit down with Spikes Tactical, Tactical Solutions, Knights Armament, Ares Armor...the list goes on and on.

I am not worried one bit. Show me the a compensator reduces the volume by a statistically significant amount when measured using MIL-STD-810G testing method 515.6

[Anonymous No.405159]

>>405082
You fucking plank. It functions as a lubricant because it forms a perfect, durable graphite coating on steel. Now go and read what OP was looking for and engage your fucking brain you humongous twat.

[Anonymous No.405161]

Nice work OP

A2 Steel is nice steel to work with.

To blacken it I would use a black engine paint as they're designed for lots of vibration, heat and to stick to steel well.

As for your holes, use a simple tap/die set.

When you've tuned your item, see if you can grind off the bolt heads flush with the outer of it, and then paint it so it looks like it's really neat.

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405165]

>>405126
>shitposted the fuck out of it

[Anonymous No.405166]

>mfw my glorious homeboard has been slowly but surely filled with /b/faggots

sorry /k/friend, this thread wont die for a long time so hopefully you get some real help later on

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405167]

>>405166

I'll survive. Thanks.

I usually don't venture out of /k/, or post while the day shift is still around.

My peak time is around 1:30 a.m.

[Anonymous No.405181]

>>405006

We use a product called Presto black to repair the coating of aircract engine geaeboxes, pretty much an instant blackening effect, keeps rust proof pretty good with a light oil coat after, not got any gun experience so I don't know if it would be suitable?

[Anonymous No.405182]

Eastwood is a company that makes stuff for resoring old cars and hot rods. they have some coating/coloring kits for different finishes. I am sure there is one for black.

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405186]

>>405181
The brush on gel?

Looks good. Could use a q tip to get into the exit hole and just pack it in the tapped holes.

[Anonymous No.405187]

Wow /diy/ really goes to shit these days.


I guess you could use one of these recipes OP :

http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/machinery/Receipts/Producing-Black-Color-On-Iron-And-Steel.html

[Anonymous No.405190]

>>405187

The one we have is 5litre bottles of blue liquid, watery stuff, you can pretty much dip a part in it and it instantly blackens, give it about 30 seconds then clean the residue off, coat of oil and yer good.

[Anonymous No.405203]

Gun blue is pretty easy to come by. Just clean the part in hot water, brush it on, let sit for ten minutes or so and wipe off the excess. Then let it cure over night. If you don't have a good finish though, it'll definitely show.

[Anonymous No.405211]

[Anonymous No.405232]

>>405078

/diy/fags are, in the main, willfully ignorant where weapons are concerned with the exception of a few smithfags.

I am a noob where metalworking is concerned and would have liked to have helped you with this.

>muzzle brake/compensators have larger holes than tapped set screws.

Any hole surely do, from what I have read thus far about the devices it is just a case of using the gas to stabilise the weapon, I could understand larger rounds demanding larger holes due to the added recoil but smaller rounds on weapons that have much lower recoil would call for smaller holes. As I tend to get super anal about shit like this I would prefer smaller so I could really fine tune.

OP, maybe you could cam the whole rifle up with the compensator on for additional kickass ness?

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405271]

> OP, maybe you could cam the whole rifle up with the compensator on for additional kickass ness?

This confuses me slightly. Not sure if too high to understand or if broken English is in play

[Anonymous No.405275]

Caswell's cold-ox bluing or blacking is your best bet. makes no alterations to dimensional tolerances, can be done on your bench, no hot baths, nothing. the cold-ox black is pretty durable unless you're polishing with abrasives.

http://www.caswellplating.com is thier US sales.

[Radiofag No.405278]

This thread is useless without lathe pictures.

[Anonymous No.405283]

>>405275

oh, as a note, I have used Caswell's cold-ox on weapons and carbon steel before, not just general steel applications. On carbon steel it tends to be very slightly brownish-black, while on mild steel it ends up more a bluish black. not sure but my steel parts were hardened to 50-52HrC with a satin finish. unhardened steels should take the blacking easier. A second application of cleaner, preparation, and oxide should solve that issue and give a really good clean finish.

Wear levels are acceptable, but its not as durable as parkerising, of course.

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405288]

>>405232

Another thing to mess around with is exit diameter. I know that some 22 caliber suppressor use up to a .300 diameter exit hole. Some companies use a wire EDM to cut a taper from .275 at the muzzle to .300 at exit.

I used a 9/32 (.281) reamer for my exit. A compensator doesn't need such close tolerances because the length it has to travel through is only about 1.5 inches instead of 6 or so. I am now wishing I had used a smaller hole.

I might make another with a .250 reamed hole and test efficiency side by side.

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405293]

>>405278

How about General machine tools?

Pic of the comp in a spin jig, clamped in a vice in a CNC machine.

Being able to program with g and m codes makes simple projects like this much easier and consistent.

[Anonymous No.405298]

>>405293
Shit. Dear /diy/: thanks for all the wood.

[Anonymous No.405343]

>>405271
he wants moar pictures of ur weapon

[Anonymous No.405362]

>>405343
Peavert!

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405379]

This is all I feel like doing right now. Gonna take it out in the snow tomorrow.

1/3

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405381]

2/3

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405382]

3/3

[Anonymous No.405483]

>>405382
That is beautiful, 10/10 clapburgers.

Wish i lived in 'murka.

[Anonymous No.405490]

why nigger rig/zip tie that light on there? can you not invest in a mountable one?

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405500]

>>405490

> Find me a lighter, cheaper or lower profile way to mount a light.

Also I figured it was the /diy/ spirit to make things work. It may not look good, but it is secure, low profile and uses what I have on hand.

No need to spend $100+ on a light and the $40+ on a mount when I have a pretty decent cr123 light and two zap straps

[sage No.405506]

>>405500
Instead you spend $100 on a stock.

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.405514]

>>405506

Idk where you would buy a CTR for $100 but I would be just as butthurt as you if I did.

$40 at a gun show

[Anonymous No.405517]

>>405506
zip tied light is perfectly usable? A new stock is ridiculous to DIY, and has a huge utility to the feel of it.

I'm from California so I'm jelly. I want me some pistol grips but nooo :[

[Anonymous No.405518]

well shit, I was gonna come to /diy/ and post about my next wine batch, but jesus fuck all of you are clinically retarded

guess I get to keep it on /k/

[Anonymous No.405520]

>>405518
been on both boards. I really don't know what the fuck happened in here. We're usually not this bad. We especially love brewing threads

[Anonymous No.405631]

>>405518
a lot of /diy/ is pallet-fag/dumpster-diving/container-living hipsterfaggots.

for anything requiring real skill you have to sift through an awful lot of shit to get the gold, but it will come.

My advice on blackening? Heat then quench. Simplest and most permanent.

[Anonymous No.405655]

>>405631
Most of /diy/ can only dream of living in a shipping container fortress on owned land.

[Anonymous No.405715]

>>405006
Should have made it out on inconel. Although it is stainless you could try bluing it, probably one of the cheapest ways besides painting it with a sharpie.

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.406111]

>>405715

Tis not stainless. It's made of A2 which is a general purpose tool steel. I work in the stamping die industry and we have literally tons of a number of very good tool steels on hand.

A2, D2, S7 and some CPM varieties here and there.

Any other metal heads around here. I love to talk metallurgy.

[~^*sAmeFaG*^~ !!WrzeHVQALxn No.406116]

As for inconel...

A number of months ago, I submitted a form 1 to the ATF to build a suppressor. Still waiting to get it back, and I don't plan on doing it anytime soon.

For this project, I did purchase a small 1.5 x 3 inch section of 617 inconel. I got lucky and a manufacturer that I called, had this small cutoff piece for $50. I plan to make the initial blast baffle from this chunk. If I had, or could find more of the stuff I would love to make one out of inconel.

Who the fuck am I though? Knights Armament?