/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.352707]

how come if euro electrics is so much better this happened?

[Anonymous No.352722]

Those are not british plugs. Your argument is irrelevant.

[Anonymous No.352724]

>>352722
Do you not know how to read? Where does he say they're British? wtf?

[Anonymous No.352725]

the same way as this

[Anonymous No.352726]

voltage and current difference. Also, look at how many is plugged lol.

[Anonymous No.352727]

and this.

When the circuit breakers fail and you manage to overload the 16A wall sockets, Failures are imminent, plastic power sockets will give in sooner, but ceramic ones will be able to handle more power for short periods of time

[Anonymous No.352742]

>>352707
>plug two multiplug into another multiplug
>dont expect fire
pick one
doesnt help that its some chinese plastic crap, shit doesnt happen to pic related

[Anonymous No.352751]

>>352725
thats usually caused by shotty workmanship.. loose neutral creates heat and then melts and starts a fire. The OP's pic is a factory made surge protector that failed?

>>352727
you are fucking stupid, receptacles in that style are rated at 15 amps and 20 amps. I assume you get the 16amps from the 80% rule.

[Anonymous No.352755]

>>352727

You don't need to overload the sockets for that to happen. If the contact fingers get damaged (or if they were the cheapest Chinese trash to begin with), even relatively small load can make them smolder.

[Anonymous No.352760]

I have this for my computer. One of my cat peed on it. I let it dry for two days, just to be sure, and it still works, and neither my computer or its power supply were harmed.

[Anonymous No.352761]

>>352760
pic related sorry

[Anonymous No.352763]

>>352761
how about next time before you post your gay little infographic with your faggy nonenglish language you just dont and instead you fucking kill yourself you immigrant queer. fuck you

[Anonymous No.352798]

>>352763
>>>/b/

[Anonymous No.352826]

>>352763
How about you learn more than one language faggot?

nobody cares about americans. You are as poor as Greeks and fifty times more like to shoot yourselves.

...to the anon posting the picture Merci.

[Anonymous No.352832]

>>352751
>you are fucking stupid, receptacles in that style are rated at 15 amps and 20 amps. I assume you get the 16amps from the 80% rule.

Sorry, I'm from Europe, all power sockets that have the common socket, are rated for 16A,
everything that surpasses that rating uses usually 3 phases and/orhas its own style of plug and socket

[Anonymous No.352838]

25 different standard outlets in use in the U.S.

[Anonymous No.352841]

>>352838
WAT?
you gotta be kidding me

[Anonymous No.352862]

>>352841
Unless you have a home theather system or are dealing with washing machines and stuff like that, you only need to worry about the NEMA 5-15 and the NEMA 1-15, and the first is retro-compatible with the second.

[Anonymous No.352879]

>>352838
EXCEPT
20 of those are never used outside of an industrial or heavy commercial setting and the rest the other three are used only in permanent installs like washing machines and ovens and shit and the other two are generally interchangeable

[Anonymous No.352887]

>>352826
tell your women folk to shave their pits

[Anonymous No.352895]

American 220 and Euro 220. Euro's use 50 hertz, American's use 60 hertz. And American 220 is single phase I believe where Euro 220 is three phase.

Or I might have that backwards, I tried looking it up first but couldn't find it.

[Anonymous No.352897]

>>352751

Europe uses IEC standards, not NEC standards.

[Anonymous No.352896]

>>352895
so basically you are spreading info that your not really sure of.. basically a shit post.. stop that

[Anonymous No.352900]

>>352895

Correction, American 220 is three phase 60hertz and European 220 is single phase 50hertz.

>>352896
No u

[Anonymous No.352902]

>>352900
stop posting.. america uses 3phase and single phase.. 220 is single phase.. 3 phase its 208

[Anonymous No.352904]

>>352879
I have an rv and an Nisan leaf. Both use 220 but I had to pay an electrician to wire up a new outlet because the cables where not compatible and using an adapter in all weather situations is not safe. I changed out my dryer and had to buy a new cord because it came with the wrong plug.

I want to use a device like kill-a-watt on 220 but they don't exist because we use a million incompatible standards.

It fucking sucks fuck shit. It is a problem common in shit tier countries why the hell cant america get its shit together. I think we need top down regulation to standardize.

Also we waist so much fucking money in construction by using 115v appliances. You can use less copper and get the same amount of power if you switch to 220.

[Anonymous No.352910]

>>352904
those regulations are there so you don't burn something down in the process of not knowing wtf you are doing.. but of course since this is diy everyone here is some sort of expert.

[Anonymous No.353125]

oh my god this thread.

In America, a common three phase wye system is 120v from a leg to neutral, and 208 from leg to leg.

Common household split phase systems are 120v from hot to neutral, and 240v hot to hot.


In America, 220v is a misnomer.

[Anonymous No.353128]

[Anonymous No.353148]

>>353125
It is actually 125VAC and 250VAC. The means are 115VAC and 220VAC. My outlets give out 130VAC.

[Anonymous No.353151]

>>353148
>My outlets give out 135VAC.

Correction.

[Anonymous No.353158]

This threat aint got shit to do with DIY, and everyone's an expert cus they can use a voltmeter, brilliant.

[Anonymous No.353163]

>>353158
Just report the thread for being /pol/-/b/ a bullshit troll and hide it.

[Anonymous No.353204]

>>353148
Depends on how far from the transformer you are - in the US you can expect anything from 110v to what you're seeing.

[Anonymous No.353223]

>>352841
Yup. Although that includes indoor and outdoor, twist-lock and standard, not to mention all 4 common amperage ratings. We are covering 100 years of history here, though.

In your common house you'll usually have 1-15 or 5-15 outlets everywhere (even if the circuit is breakered at 20a). In the laundry room you'll have either a 10-30 or a 14-30 for the clothes dryer. In the kitchen, you'll have either a 10-50 or a 14-50 for the range.

You will almost never see a twist-lock (all the L numbers) indoors, unless it's been installed specifically for a movable appliance of some sort where the cord would be likely to wiggle itself out of the socket under normal use. They're primarily used outdoors, for plugging in travel trailers (caravans) to local utilities, or hooking a portable generator to a professionally installed transfer switch. The rest of them you'll usually only see in a shop or in some sort of commercial/industrial setting. 6-20 is common for low-power 240v stuff (large space heaters, some industrial kitchen equipment), 6-50 and 6-30 are common for welding equipment and large kitchen equpiment (deep fryers, commercial ovens, soft-serve machines). 5-20 is usually used in shops/garages and in commercial buildings, even though equipment that actually uses 20a and has the keyed neutral pin is very rare, and then usually requires its own individual branch circuit.

[Anonymous No.353227]

>>352904
The problem is that instead of using 50a receptacles everywhere and sticking a 50a plug on everything, we use the lesser receptacles when the load isn't going to be as high. Your RV plug was probably a 50a and your car charger was probably a 30a.

And we've also got a legacy of non-grounded buildings and outlets which is only changing in new construction, so half the time your appliance has the new grounded cord and your house has the old ungrounded socket.

New construction is pretty well standardized. It's the old shit that's all over the board.

[Anonymous No.353238]

>>353204
True. I'm less than 20 feet from the transformer.

[Anonymous No.353239]

I once had my power cut from a fire that burnt a sphere from inside one of the cassette thingies. Shame I never took a photo.

[Anonymous No.353242]

>>353151
you must have a hell of a time
With incandescent light bulbs. 135 is a little high. Some stuff really cant
Handle those extra 5-10 volts id watch that.

[Anonymous No.353245]

>>353125
it depends on what your local poco taps their transformer at. Not all of them are 120/240 some really are 110/220 and 115/230, this is why american appliances will work from 110-125 allowing for overvolting and undervolting a little bit.

[Anonymous No.353246]

>>353151
does it give you 135 on both phases? if one is really low and the other is high you probably have a loose neutral.

[Anonymous No.353251]

>>353242
I use CFLs.

[Anonymous No.353266]

>>352904

>Also we waist so much fucking money in construction by using 115v appliances

That's for safety, in England its the same. On site its 110v, normal is 230v, three phase is 400v. The power for 110v is parallel of 55v which is very low and very safe for building sites.

[Anonymous No.353292]

>>352887
Tell yours to bring their own prybars so they won't need the fire department to extract them from double doors.

[Anonymous No.353335]

>>353223
L6-20 and L6-30 are common in datacenters

[Anonymous No.353368]

>>352726
OP,
In the US we have what are called ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI's). They come std. in recently built/rewired bathrooms and kitchens in the US. You can also get them at hardware stores as a front end plug that goes into the wall socket, and you would plug that, erm, 9-socket monstrosity extension in your pic to it [LOLOLOL]. Europe being paranoid/safety- conscious, I have no doubt you'd find a hardware store or electrical supply place that has the euro equivalent of GFCI. Highly recommended [as well as a fire extinguisher in your setup... might I suggest TWO extension cord blocks?]

[Anonymous No.353413]

>>353148
maybe in your house but thats not the standard

[Anonymous No.353464]

>>353413
>misunderstanding the entire post

What a fucking moran. lol

[Anonymous No.353495]

>>353223
You can find RV parks and marines using TT-30, 14-50, L5-30, SS-1, or SS-2. You have to carry around a toolbox full of adapters, including reverse-Y adapters that combine two 30amp lines into one 50amp line, or combine two 15amp lines into one 30amp line. I've seen people with running shore power through three adapters just to get what they need. And then the breaker panel in your vehicle has to have a polarity and voltage indicators because you can convert to incompatible power. It's nuts!

[Anonymous No.353519]

>>353368

OP's pic is an arc fault, not a ground fault.

A GFCI would do nothing to prevent it.

Also: in europe, the house main breaker is usually a gfci.

[Anonymous No.353582]

>>352707

just a troll. things fail, shit happens. significance of events like this are determined statisstically, not from one fuckwit anon pouring soda into a eurofag outlet strip.

[Anonymous No.353620]

>>353495
holy shit thats insane
over here all household outlets are pretty much the same with 220V 16A, ovens dont have a plug at all, just 3 wires coming out of the wall you connect manually.
All industrial applications that use more power use 3 phasic power with 400V 16/32A and pic related
only problem is that people fuck up the connection and you have to watch out that whatever engine youre running isnt turning backwards lol.

[Anonymous No.353628]

>>353582

Statistics are more like 99% of the time its a user error.

Make sure you don't spill shit in your outlets & plugs and make sure the connection is good.

Also use common sense, i bet that burnt cable in OPs pic is a oven, wich uses more amps than the outlet is rated for.

[Anonymous No.353634]

>>353628
How can spilling something into the outlet cause anything like OPs pic?
did that a couple of times, on the multiplug i use for my computer stuff. RCD blows, i get a new multi, put the old one on the radiator, and the pc runs just fine.

[Anonymous No.353645]

>>352763
>2012
not able to speak multiple languages

[Anonymous No.353690]

>>353620
Yeah, like making adaptors from 16A plug to 32A socket.
I'm doing electric checks all over the Germany and saw quite a lot of things that scared me as electrician.

[Anonymous No.353702]

>>353628

Dust, dirt, spills as well as not plugging adapters in good enough can build up a layer on the copperpins and in the outlet aswell.

This will heat up over a long period of time and keep on building up more resistance in the contact.

If you see a greenish / white layer in your outlests or plugs, try cleaning or replace them,

A computer only uses around 3-5 amps, it needs "less connection" (can work with a smaller wire, doesn't nessecarely get hot from a bad connection) then say a oven / heater wich uses 5-15 amps.

Whoever took OPs pic should have noticed the outlet was extremely hot for quite some time before it caught fire, and taking a pic instead of putting out the flame is just silly

[Anonymous No.353733]

>>353690
In America you can go to a hardware store and buy adapters that let you plug 30amp or 50amp into a 15amp outlet. And they think it's a good idea to sell these things?

[Anonymous No.353750]

>>353733

That's different, the fuse is still 15A and will blow if you plug more in it.

What >>353690 means is probarly
plugging a 16A plug into a 32A outlet would let the machine you connected draw more amps than the 16A plug could handle since it's on a 32A fuse

[Anonymous No.353808]

>>353690
>Secutest

Brofist. Best tester you can buy for money.

[Anonymous No.353815]

K lets form a new standard that will solve the problems with the standards before it. It will only require everyone to replace there entire circuit beaker box, there outlets and all of there electric possessions. The outlets will initially be powered with 5v dc. A chip in the device will tell the circuit beaker box what voltage and how many amps it needs. The circuit breaker will adjust the voltage and when it trips thus solving the problem. Also each outlet will need a home run and no more dangerous outlets strips will be allowed. Now you will be able to plug your electric dryer into the same socket as your alarm clock and everyone will be happy.

[Anonymous No.353829]

Well, that power strip is probably chinese.

And looking at the number of plugs thats in it, i would guess op didnt read that it supports a maximum output of 2kw or something.

Also picture looks fake.

The reason european electrics is better is that you can run more current through thinner wires.

[Anonymous No.353830]

>>353815
sounds like a solid plan

[Anonymous No.353891]

probably built in China, and who plugs so much into one thing..

[Anonymous No.353907]

>>353891
notice how its only on fire on one plug and not at the feed end?

[Anonymous No.353917]

>>352724
Britain is a part of Europe. Do you have comprehension issues?

[Anonymous No.353956]

>>353917
>comprehension issues?
I cannot comprehend why the UK would let themselves be dragged down by Yuro-tards