Method For Seized Hex Head Bolt That's Rounding Off

[Anonymous No.2751184]

This caliper bolt is giving me hell.
I've tried:
>PB Blasty soak overnight
>Hitting with impact wrench, need swivel joint to fit bc it's huge
>Ratcheting socket wrench smack with hammy
>Smacking combi wrench with a rubber mallet and with a hefty framing hammy
What is your go-to tool for the job? Triple teaming PBB + Combi + Hammy worked for the other bolts.

[Anonymous No.2751187]

>>2751184
Consider removing the parking brake cable in the way to gain more access if you need to. I have been guilty of getting away with the hammer on combination wrench, but I have 6 point combination wrenches for that. I have also gotten a jack under the handle of a breaker bar (also on a 6 point socket and sent it knowing it'll either snap the bolt or go. If it snaps the head off, and you cannot get the "stud" out of the caliper just replace it.

[Anonymous No.2751188]

Sanity check, you are turning it the correct way, right? I've fucked myself before trying to turn bolts that are on the backside of something like that. Heating it might work, but worst case you can grind or cut it off and replace the caliper or bracket. Good luck, I've got some rusted lug bolts that I've been trying to remove which are getting close to rounding off.

[Anonymous No.2751192]

>>2751188

[Anonymous No.2751215]

>>2751192

>0 matches

Nice original art my man, I have saved this for my future use

[Anonymous No.2751219]

>>2751215
>Nice original art my man,
Welcome to 4chan. You might want to lurk a bit.

[Anonymous No.2751220]

>>2751219
fuck off m8

[Anonymous No.2751263]

1) heat
2) are your sockets 6 pt? I find they round less often. Otherwise you're going to be using a socket that bites into the head soon (bolt extractor sockets) and then changing that bolt out
Attach your jack handle to the wrench and use that for more leverage

[Anonymous No.2751272]

>>2751184
get a wax candle and a map torch. heat that thing up real good and press the candle around the edges. it will suck the wax into the threads and you can remove it. I had to remove a stuck cv axle nut once and I tried everything, pb, ratchet/hammer, ratchet/sledge. 2ft breaker bar and literally jumping on a 6ft pole that I put over said breaker bar. heat+wax got it done easily. warning though, I had to get that fucker HOT. I'm not 100% sure how well the wax will get to the threads on a bolt as opposed to the nut I dealt with but I'd say it's worth trying. stuck bolts are such a bitch

[Anonymous No.2751279]

Some good suggestions no sense repeating them.
One trick I learned when wrenching for a living.
Try tightening it first. Only use a 6 point socket as said. Ive also had luck with vice grips. Get a good solid bite making them as tight as possible.
All else fails break out the smoke wrench

[Anonymous No.2751339]

I've freed many a stuck bolt by applying precision percussion with a hammer to free up the threads from corrosion before turning the bolt. Id hit the housing just outside the bolt and directly on the bolt head. Don't go full retard and deform the steel.

[Anonymous No.2751364]

>>2751184
Heat it up cherry hot with map gas torch, tap on end with hammer. Spray with PB blaster. Let it soak a little. Heat to cherry hot again. Spray with pb blaster, tap with hammer. Try removing it again without using too much force. Just keep heat cycling it.

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2751373]

>>2751184
This is why you don’t use low quality and/or 12-point sockets on modern day hardware

[Anonymous No.2751406]

Well gentleman, am retard. I bought >>2751272 as well as a fat breaker bar and some nice swivel impact joints/extensions, chewed the fuck out of the bolt, was totally unable to phase it, and then realized it was actually totally unnecessary to what I was trying to accomplish HAHAHA FUCK it'll suck when I need to change rotors but for now I'm good. Moral of the story:
>watch videos?
>read service manual? (mine isn't available onde lolo but I wouldn't have read it be "i know what I'm doing")
>try the simple things before resorting to drasticker measurers

[Anonymous No.2751407]

>>2751373
> low quality and/or 12-point sockets
Yea it's just hard to determine quality these days, some things that were cheap 20 years ago are better than things expensive now. I did in fact marr the bolt head with a 12 point combi wrench and a hammer desu

[Anonymous No.2751415]

>>2751184
>>2751187
What size wrench/socket are you using?

The actual size you physically used to cause that, don't fucking lie to me.

[Anonymous No.2751419]

>>2751373
12 point and 6 point sockets engage the bolt in the same exact place. If you round the fastener off enough a 12pt slips, the 6pt wouldnt have fared any better.

[Anonymous No.2751437]

>>2751419
What an absolute crock of shit

If you have decent sockets they'll have arched sides and the load will be on the center of the bolt heads sides

[Anonymous No.2751459]

Another trick ive used for rounded bolt heads.
Find a metric socket that’s roughly the same size only slightly smaller and hammer it on the bolt head.

[Anonymous No.2751460]

>>2751419
Bullshit

[Anonymous No.2751488]

Last resort is put a notch in bolt head with a cold chisel. Then use a punch to lefty loosy

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2751494]

>>2751184
That doesn’t look too bad yet. 6pt shallow socket and a long handle ratchet would probably do it.

Otherwise extractor sockets are your friend. A little heat never hurts. If you do any automotive work at all, I highly recommend at least getting a cheap propane torch. The PB blaster barely had a chance to soak in without some heat to expand stuff.

[Anonymous No.2751757]

Heat, make the bolt red for 20 secs or so and let it cool down again a bit. Also get a hex socket, not one of those star sockets, a hex strips less easily. Dont force it, or youll snap the bolt and youll have to drill it or weld it out. Or both. Just reheat to red again for 20 secs and let it cool down until it comes off without breaking.

[Anonymous No.2751770]

>>2751184
I'd use a grinder on that sum'bitch if you are not trying to keep it.

[Anonymous No.2751784]

>>2751770
honestly best practice would be to replace on every rotor replacement especially in salt country.

[Anonymous No.2751793]

>>2751184
WD40 first and foremost...

Blowtorch

hammer the next size down socket on (if still no budge once smaller socket is hammered on don't remove it just get a long ass breaker bar on it.

[Anonymous No.2751808]

Dremel with grinding disc
Grind a deep slot across head of bolt
Use a flathead / slotted screw driver
Come right out. Slotted screws don’t strip

[Anonymous No.2751815]

>>2751184
Can't be stuck if it's liquid. Bust out the torch. Heat it cherry red, then use a six point socket to wiggle it back and forth. Keep trying this and it should come off.

[Anonymous No.2751914]

>>2751808
>Slotted screws don't strip
The screwdrivers snap if they're not strong enough, beware.

[Anonymous No.2751929]

>>2751437
Almost very single socket and wrench made in the last 30 years uses a flanked geometry, that flanked geometry is identical on both 6 and 12pt sockets anon.
Im glad you brought that up anon, the fact that it is flanked makes it even more obvious.
Since the flank is the only part touching the fastener, the extra cutout far back behind the flank literally doesnt matter. Once you damage bad enough to be past that flank, its slipping no matter what.
Its boomers wivestale placebo effect at its finest.

>>2751460
Garage journal did objective testing on tons of sockets and wrenches about engagement points of different brands.

Here is USA made Craftsman 12pt (top) and 6pt (bottom)

Funny how everyone decries 12point sockets as devil spawn that will destroy all of your fasteners. But when you look in their toolbox, all of the combination wrenches have 12pt box ends which miraculous dont destroy fasteners.
Funny how that works huh?

[Anonymous No.2751934]

>>2751184
I just decide I'm not a faggot and use my hands

[Anonymous No.2751943]

>>2751929
>Almost very
Well thanks for the polite response, diy is a little too cut throat at times.
Most people prefer a 12 point wrench because a 6 point is obstructed too often to be useful, just like how we use 120tooth or up ratchets now instead of 36 tooth.

My new sockets are 6point because the inconveniences of the limited arrangements are eliminated by the ratchet or impact wrench or drill driver.

Asfor a modern 12point, I'm sure they e managed to make them less trash in recent years, just like spline. I've got some older 12 points that regularly fuck stuff up, they were expensive. I use vicegrips on stuck bolts not, if I mess up the surfact then I'll grind it down with a Dremel later just to eliminate anything sticking up that would possibly Marr a wrench later.

I still stand by my opinion the arched 6 point sockets are the way to go. I'll be using 12 point wrenches where I can get away with it, low torque applications only.

You e referenced a test, I'll look into that at some point

[Anonymous No.2751962]

If the bolt head gets rounded weld a nut over it.
Exhaust manifold bolts are notorious for being difficult.

[Anonymous No.2751977]

Average wrenchlet thread. Go to /o/ you will fit right in

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2752201]

>>2751929
>that pic
In all fairness, if that bolt was fucked up or weak and either socket slipped past the original bite point marked on the pic, the 12pt is going to accelerate and rip another tooth across that corner, but the 6pt is probably going to push more of the flat into what’s left of the nut.

This is coming from a guy who says 12pts don’t easily damage 6pt fasteners unless they’re already pretty fucked up. Stripping a moderately healthy nut doesn’t come from 6pt vs 12pt, it comes from an open ended wrench or cockeyed socket.

That being said, it still doesn’t really make sense that so many automotive focused don’t used 6pts on 72T+ ratcheting wrenches for what marginal benefits they give, especially considering so many automotive fasteners are partially damaged from the elements and prior retards. If there was zero difference, there wouldn’t be 6pt specific wrenches, especially brake bleeder wrenches and such.

[Anonymous No.2752303]

Weld a socket to the bolt

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2752371]

>>2751419
That’s only true if you’re cheap and shop at harbor freight or Home Depot for your hand tools

If you’re a proper professional your sockets are flank drive (snap-on, Matco, heavy equipment stuff)

[Anonymous No.2752422]

>>2751184
go-to is always a nice impact. if impact doesn't fit, next step is a socket on a breaker bar, then pre-load the breaker bar by pushing on the long end and and strike the bar with a hammer closer up near the socket side. pre-load is necessary or it'll just bounce and not transmit the force. if that doesn't work either PB blaster + that, or torch on the female side of the threads (if you heat the bolt side it'll expand the bolt in the threads and not really loosen it). if it's REALLY stuck you can heat the female side of the threads AND use some water to cool down the bolt itself while the female threads are still hot. I very rarely am unable to get a bolt out after doing all of these things.
t. mechanic in pennsylvania

[Anonymous No.2752425]

>>2751977
this

[Anonymous No.2752426]

>>2752371
>If you’re a proper professional your sockets are flank drive
My 15 year old harbor freight "impact" sockets are flank drive. I guess that makes me a proper professional.

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2752427]

>>2752426
No it means your ass lucked out and accidentally bought something useful that you probably never mated to a impact wrench

[Anonymous No.2752428]

>>2752427
My impact wrench is cordless. It's got a lot of "foot-pounds"
It feels pretty good to be a member of the Proper Professional Master Race.

[Anonymous No.2752429]

>>2752422
Drips water on head of bolt
Credibility blown

[Anonymous No.2752430]

Guy ive known forever has a mechanics shop.
Been doing it his whole life. Largest Snap on tool box ive ever seen. He has every snap on tool made.
He swears by Harbor Freight’s sockets.

[Anonymous No.2752432]

>>2751184
Sure doesn't seem to be holding that caliper to anything.

[Anonymous No.2752445]

>>2752429
>he doesn't know about thermal expansion

[Anonymous No.2752460]

>>2751406
it's funny that everyone just kept arguing and nobody acknowledged this post

[Anonymous No.2752467]

>>2751364
this. i had to do this recently and whilst it fucking sucks, it worked

[Anonymous No.2752473]

>>2752460
>Being this new
Op can't turn a bolt, were here to argue with people that can turn bolts but less better than us.

[Anonymous No.2752898]

>>2751415
It was a 14mm bolt head, I used a 14mm wrench (picrel, unbranded) and 14mm socket. I have a full set of sockets so I don't just use the first random tool that fits over it. I'm used to Japanese bolt sizes too so I can generally just tell.
>>2752432
Yea lol it was just the bracket
>>2752460
kek
>>2752473
I bought a hugeass breaker bar, some swivel joints for my impact, and those flower pedal shaped with sharp rifling in them to eat into the bolt, let soak in the blasty all night, blasted w heat gun, and was somehow STILL unable to get it. The fuuuuck. I'm sore as hell but never even needed to touch the bolt kek kms

[Anonymous No.2752922]

>>2752445
>1" of steel expands 0.00000645 inches for every degree Fahrenheit increase in temperature
Ill ask the expert on thermal expansion, how much expansion do you expect, and how much of a degree swing will dripping water on your fastener cause?
Im curious

[Anonymous No.2752947]

>>2751184
Op has already solved it but here's what i would do
>Spray penetrant fluid
>Try and work bolt back and forth with ratchet and 6 point socket
>Hit it with a hammer a few times
>Try my weak impact
>Use breaker bar and hope i get lucky
>Fuck it up
>Cry
>Enter existential crisis because you can't do anything right
There are probably better strategies

[Anonymous No.2752948]

>>2752922
>head of fastener

[Anonymous No.2752952]

>>2752898
>bought a hugeass breaker bar, some swivel joints for my impact, and those flower pedal
I wasn't disrespecting you, we've all been there.
Heatgun won't do shit btw, use a torch
These days, I like to weld a nut on it because that heats the whole thing to hell, then use the impact before it cools.

>It was a 14mm bolt head, I used a 14mm wrench
Idiots here like to use sae on metric bolts and round them, that's why I asked that the way I did

[Anonymous No.2752954]

>>2752948
Go on and quantify the thermal expansion anon

[Anonymous No.2752959]

>>2752952
> Idiots here like to use sae on metric bolts and round them, that's why I asked that the way I did

Its the other way around Einstein metrics are smaller

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2752961]

>>2752898
Once you’re done

Go through all your sockets

Take anything 12 point throw in the garbage

Then take all your 6 point and anything more than 1mm of play throw in the garbage

For most of the poor fags here they’re be throwing all their tools away kek

[Anonymous No.2752972]

>>2752959
No, they have a metric bolt on a car and they'll try to use sae sizes on everything and round the head
Lrn2read

[Anonymous No.2752974]

>>2752961
You make 37k a year

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2752981]

>>2752974
And have a box of snap on tools what’s your excuse?

[Anonymous No.2752983]

>>2752981
Im a machinist, I dont blow money on mechanics tools.

[Anonymous No.2752984]

I use buffalo tools…best by far…lifetime warranty

[Anonymous No.2752989]

>>2752983
Stands there all day watching a macine work
Kys fag

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2752991]

>>2752983
Mechanics have better hand tools than ones geared towards machinists

[Anonymous No.2752992]

>>2752989
Its very lucrative work, you could be rich making 37k a year!

[Anonymous No.2752995]

>>2752991
Go on and explain what your daily tasks are in the machine shop, and what SnapOn tools you use to complete said task.

[Anonymous No.2752996]

>>2752981
You overpaid.
Snap on sells a lot of rebranded stuff, I've dealt with the oems, the products are garbage and snapon has a huge markup

[Anonymous No.2752999]

>>2752995
>and what SnapOn tools you
Not him, but don't even go there.

Brandfagging is female and nigger behavior.

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2753001]

>>2752995
Way cover bolts, haas spindle covers, fan mounts, coolant pump mounting bolts, bolts that hold the umbrella style tool changer plates

Fixturing parts, I like to bolt parts to plates for second ops…

[Anonymous No.2753003]

>>2753001
I didnt say "what random bolts exist, which might get touched every 8-12 months in the shop", I said daily which would require you to have SnapOn tools in the shop

>Fixturing parts
Kek, you use Hex bolts for fixturing?

Sort of sounds like you are janitor and maintenance dude, not a machinist.
Does SnapOn sell a shop vac?

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2753008]

>>2753003
So when you finish posting out a program, editing the gcode, then when you hit t1 arc forward

And nothing happens

Then you get a red light and alarm tool changer f

What do YOU do?

Does your operator ass go get the setup operator or machinist to fix it for you?

>why snap-on

Because when you’re standing ontop of the machine and your shitty harbor freight tools prevent you from doing your job…

[Anonymous No.2753012]

>>2753008
>shitty harbor freight tools prevent you from doing your job
Explain

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2753013]

>>2753012

That sentence means there are two conditions:

1: own harbor freight tools
2: can’t do job with them

[Anonymous No.2753014]

>>2753013
Why cant you do the job with them?

[Anonymous No.2753018]

>>2753012
He can't, he's just a brandfag.

[Anonymous No.2753019]

>>2753014
Probably because he "gets the ick" like a little girl and has to mince away, wash his hands for 30 minutes, and cry in the designed crying closet.

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2753021]

>>2753014
So these are the tools you’re comparing to snap-on…

Rather than sitting here arguing with you, go buy a snap on socket set and compare the fit finish and function to your tools here

[Anonymous No.2753024]

>>2753021
Is harbor freight and snapon the only brands you know

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2753031]

>>2753024
Are*

[Anonymous No.2753034]

>>2753031
They are...

[Anonymous No.2753405]

>>2752947
Kek this is precisely what I did. I didn't cry but I did have one of those pacing moments of intense childlike frustration and anger like WHY
>>2752961
Who the hell has 12 point sockets? The only 12 point anything I have is on combination wrenches. Also, do you ever post anything that isn't arguing with le poors about why your mortgage down payment worth of tools is justified? You literally just went through this same exact rigmarole in another thread bro

[Anonymous No.2753420]

>>2751459
i did something like this once. had a cheap piece of shit chinese from the flea market, shit tier socket set. so i had a rounded off bolt. I took a smaller socket from the chinese set, put my good extention on it to not harm it, and hammered it on to there. it bent the socket going on. I was then able to remove the bolt.

[Sieg Heil !NP2jUmGKeo No.2753436]

>>2753405
i have good tools, you're poorfag ass is literally arguing agaisnt high end tools in a thread where you rounded off a bolt with your cheap chink shit bro...literally your thread , where you caused your own problem you dumbfuck

[Anonymous No.2753447]

>>2753001
lol retard you could use HART tools to undo the silly little cover that lets you add oil to the leaky haas machine. cope and seethe you don't know how to handle money

[Anonymous No.2753448]

>>2753013
sounds like a skill issue

[Anonymous No.2753468]

>>2753021
Stop deflecting and answer the question.
quote
>"shitty harbor freight tools prevent you from doing your job"

Why cant you do the job with them?
Explain to those of us who dont understand.

[Anonymous No.2753488]

>>2753468
I've already answered for him.
It gives him the ick, he has to wash his hands for 30 minutes straight, and then spend the rest of the afternoon crying in the crying closet. He even stays after his shift ends, the manager usually has to chase him out to lock the place up

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2753531]

>>2753021
Fuck these chinese round head ratchets. I think they were a sick joke like “round ratchet for round eye that exprodes!”

I had a retarded friend who bought that set numerous times and as soon as you put even mild torque into the ratchet, the whole drive mechanism just pops apart and your knuckles loose skin.

But I think you may be strawmanning.

[Anonymous No.2753587]

>>2751184
Heat. Heat the surrounding area as mu h as you can without heating the bolt. After you heat the surrounding area, take a thick wet towel, and only touch it to the head of the bolt. Then, while everything else is sgill hot, remove bolt. If you've rounded it, you'll have to pick an extractor and cross your fingers. You need a substantial amount of heat. I've even used 2 map gas turbo torches at once. Remember, what you heat will expand, and what is cool will not, so dont heat the bolt. I'll also shoot kroil at the bolt to cool it as I'm heating as well. Don't burn the csr or shop down. Keep water on hand.

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2753599]

>>2753447
The spindle transmission on 50 tapers? You need to remove most of the side mount and all the spindle covers and fan assembly

[Anonymous No.2753603]

>>2753468
Actually, bad and shitty tools, like the majority of the tools sold at harbor freight will make tbe job harder, or even impossible. What can you do with a set of sockets that are more prone to stripping or breaking? What can you sand with a sander that's out of balance? How about a crow bar that bends? Or a ratchet that snaps?
Harbor freight and places like them had their uses when the tools were very cheap. Now, most of them are near the price of their actual functioning counterparts. Last fucking thing I bought from harbor freight was a metal drill set, and it did not drill one single hole, and I was reminded why I don't buy their unless it's a last resort.
People don't even have a reason to shop there any more. For instance, I needed a cheap underhoist jack, I wanted a cheap one because I was going to customize it for a particular job. I go to hf and theirs is 90 bucks, and they're sold out. I go to my local tool supply house, and get a better quality, already assembled tool for the same price, and it's not a hf junker with shit welds all over it. I bought an electric 1/2 impact from them, just to make swapping wheels on my 3/4 ton truck not take 2 hours, and it could not even remove the lug nuts on my pickup.
What do you call it when you buy a drill bit to drill a hole, and it's totally incapable of drilling a hole?

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2753605]

>>2753531
That’s a picture of the Pittsburgh sockets and ratchets you guys defend here…. Idk what to tell ya… you’re saying fuck the tools in the picture

The picture is what you fuckers recommend all people have


Want me to show you a picture of some ryobi power tools because they’re aimed at the same consumer

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2753608]

>>2753603
We bought this tile cutter to cut 4 ties for a bathroom,

6 cuts is all we needed.

First one we bought didn’t have the included scoring tip

Wasn’t tampered with, shipped out of china like that

Second one, had a blade, followed instructions scored the tile

Used the included lever breaking arm

Tile shatters at not the score mark

We watch YouTube videos reread the instructions, nope we’re doing it right

Score multiple times multiple tiles shatter

On closer inspection under a loupe it was lightly scoring the tile but leaving a lot of that “diamond” behind making it look and few like it was a deeper cut than it really was

We went to Home Depot bought a real one and it worked the first time

Get this…. Home Depot one was actually cheaper…

These people here, say to buy all your tools from this store at this quality level… then post threads like this and wonder why everything seems impossible to do

And they don’t believe shit is possible, “you can’t just cut metal with a cnc mill!!! I’ve seen carbide and it sucks!!!”

Yeah harbor freight carbide sucks kennametal carbide is good

[Anonymous No.2753638]

>>2753436
Yes I know, it's the only thing you post about. I'm asking about you, not your tools, not anybody else's tools

[Anonymous No.2753641]

Have you guys heard of Snap-On?! I not only pay them significant amounts of money but I also spend significant amounts of my time defending them on a Swahili Podracing Forum for zero benefit to myself or anyone and also for zero dollars (busy doing and work with my tools.)

[Anonymous No.2753669]

Did you try your tite-reach on it? The other thread about them suggested they are super nice and up to the task of heavy mechanics and allow you to get into places you would never have been able to otherwise! If only snap-on branded one as their own it would increase the durability and useability 9000%!!!

[Anonymous No.2753673]

>>2753641

Fuck he’s so annoying…


Here, $55 shipped to your door and now everyone gets to have snap-on and this trip can shut the fuck up finally

https://www.amazon.com/Ratchet-Pear-Type-SB-Pack/dp/B06XTNQWN7?pd_rd_w=03F3W&content-id=amzn1.sym.839d7715-b862-4989-8f65-c6f9502d15f9&pf_rd_p=839d7715-b862-4989-8f65-c6f9502d15f9&pf_rd_r=FGN54D5V7PCD8WPACFMS&pd_rd_wg=vT3B8&pd_rd_r=6d4141f2-3e1a-4a41-8652-89d27dde6a15&pd_rd_i=B06XTNQWN7&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=quickdiy02-20&linkId=048d3dfe5dc74acc2af34347bfa4b370&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

[Anonymous No.2753675]

>>2753673
next time delete everything in your link from the ? on including the ?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2753681]

>>2753673
Would be nice if they were available in more configurations. It’s 2024, nobody uses standard short handle ratchets anymore. At least the Williams is available in different lengths and flexi bois if you can deal with the old Snappy 936 style. I’m a big fan of my long handle 3/8” Williams, that’s my go-to ratchet when I need 3/8” drive but want to give the handle a few taps with a hammer.

Picrel is a fuckin steal for anybody wanting to up their wrenching game

[Anonymous No.2753683]

>>2753675
Eh if someone was really curious on what I was watching on pornhub they can have it

[Anonymous No.2753684]

>>2753681
I recently bought the 120 tooth flex head set like that for $94. They be pretty nice. They were the same price as the 90 tooth version, so I figured I'd give em a try.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2753687]

>>2753684
I prefer the 84/90T version over the 120T. The 120s have a fatter head for a very marginal increase in benefit. I have never encountered a situation where the 84T wasn’t enough and I wish I had the 120 with me, but I have been in tight spots where the fatter 120 head would make it tricky to get in. It’s not a huge difference in size but you feel the weight

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2753688]

>>2753684
>>2753687

[Anonymous No.2753689]

>>2753687
The 84 tooth ones are just Matco ratchets

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2753697]

>>2753689
If you say so. Maybe at one time, but I don’t think the current Matco 88’s are the same as Gearwrench. It’s super easy to spot the Apex-made (aka Gearwrench’s parent brand) ratchets, the Husky 72T ratchets definitely come from them, and Advance Auto’s store brand is the same, it’s currently DieHard branded and formerly TEQ Pro.

>>2753688
>>2753684
For some reason the 90T’s are fatter than the 84. At least this stubby flex head is. Kinda pissed me off. Picrel is the newer 90T on the right, then GW 84T, then 120XP, and on the left is TEQ Pro 84T, which was the Advance Auto rebrand.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2753699]

>>2753689
Also more googling seems to say no. They’re made by Danaher, who used to make Craftsman ratchets I think. The pic of their older 60T looks exactly like the old Craftsman 36T, and the 88 looks like a new design, although some of the lines look similar to Gearwrench/Apex ratchets. Open it up and you will see. Those Craftsman/Danaher ratchets like the Matco 60 had a different mechanism than Gearwrench, similar to the older Snap On 936 ratchets

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2753705]

>>2753699
>>2753689
Kek nvm maybe they are. This dude stuck a Matco 88 rebuild kit in a Gearwrench body. Sounds like Matco 88s are made by whoever was doing Armstrong tools, and IIRC Armstrong was like the Proto/Williams of Apex Tool Group. I think the Armstrong and Craftsman Pro USA ratchets were just like the GW design.

The older Craftsman 36T ratchets were def that Danaher style, but then later Sears-Craftsman tools offered these 72T+ ratchets that were def the Apex/GW style but with a fatter ergo handle.

[Anonymous No.2753758]

>>2753608
>went to Home Depot bought a real one
Then you didn't get a real one, it's not a snapoon

[Anonymous No.2753765]

>>2753673
Damn that’s a good deal

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2753827]

>>2753697
>>2753699
>>2753705

Holy shit lay off the meth

Taking apart ratchets and fucking going apeshit

>>2753758
I own more tool brands than just snap-on… if you buy quality stuff you don’t have to buy it over and over again.

You also respect it more

People with cheap tools and cheap tool boxes tend to have all their tools just thrown haphazardly into their tool boxes.

My tool boxes have labels for everything from a label printer, 3d printed inserts, foam or the very very few harbor freight items I own being those cheap wrench organizers and socket organizers

[Anonymous No.2753836]

I just somehow dont feel the need to show off my tools or brag about them. Men always comparing dick size is tiresome. Nobody is impressed with you. They only get jealous. Its fun just setting back and watching. Kinda like feeding birds

[Anonymous No.2753883]

>>2753827
My inline flaring kit is by the same company that does the snapon, and it's fucking trash. It's physical incapable of flaring anything besides maybe copper. When the factory puts steel brake lines on cars, there's no fucking point in owning this tool.

[Anonymous No.2754048]

>>2753699
but none of them are snapone tho

[Anonymous No.2754049]

>>2753827
>God help me I am literally incapable of talking about anything other than my expensivess toodbassk

[Anonymous No.2754132]

>>2754049
He won't read or reply to your posts because they aren't made by snapoon

[Anonymous No.2754443]

>>2752996
Team blue point over here
I’ve always been a middle of the road man and it’s served me well

[Anonymous No.2755874]

>>2751184
I used a 5 foot pipe over a 2 foot breaker bar to remove the bolt on the steering pitman on my Jeep.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.2755903]

>>2754049
Williams is 2/3 of the way there.

>>2755874
You really should think about an ugga dugga. I can never go back.

[Anonymous No.2756028]

>>2755903
>You really should think about an ugga dugga. I can never go back.
Implying an impact always breaks stuff free...
Lol. Lmao even!

[Sieg !NP2jUmGKeo No.2756062]

>>2755903
Like 30% of willams tools are just retired snap-on designs

When they went to dual 80 they rebranded all their 36-tooth ratchets willams

When they came out with FDX wrenches they just renamed the willams superplus or some shit and marked the prices down

[Anonymous No.2756169]

>>2751757
Yea go heat up the bolt red hot so its nice and brittle before you turn it

[Anonymous No.2756198]

>>2755903
Careful with those screwdrivers, I've heard bad things about rubber handles

[Anonymous No.2756200]

>>2756169
This is a joke, right?
If he has the means to heat a bolt in a chink of steel like that, he probably already knows how to turn it free.
If not, you just set him on a path to melt everything

I'm saying it's in one hell of a heatsink and he doesn't have an oxyacetylene torch and he shouldn't buy one for a while