I need your help /DIY/

[Anonymous No.2750633]

Hello fellow basket weaving enthusiasts,

Recently bought a home. Inspector said fill this gap with hydraulic cement. Looked it up and hydraulic cement only last about two years.

This gap is where the old foundation meets the new foundation.

[Anonymous No.2750635]

Should I just fill this with normal quikrete? Pls respond

[Anonymous No.2750640]

>>2750633
Weird.
Anyway, you need do dig doe and get it all the way to the bottom.
Acid etch and prime both sides.
When pouring, make sure the old concrete is damp.
Drill some holes and add rebar/zinc bolts through to the inside, with some heavy steel galvanized mesh that is tied to the bolts/rebar
Anchor them with structural epoxy (or grout)
Build a mould around the area to something that looks good, and pour.
Don’t let it dry out, cover with a tarp and keep it slightly damp for 28 days.
You can even colour the cement or use a rock impression on the inside of the mould.

[Anonymous No.2750643]

>>2750633
Have you dug down to get to the bottom yet? Pls update with photo.

[Anonymous No.2750645]

>>2750633
How long of an area do the two overlap?

[Anonymous No.2750653]

>>2750645
The gap only extends maybe about 9 inches down toward the deck and then it appears to normalize and basically reconnect.

[Anonymous No.2750654]

3 tubes of caulkll get r done
t. Trim Carpenter

[Anonymous No.2750655]

>>2750654
Kek

[Anonymous No.2750658]

>>2750640
this sounds great but sounds really fucking intense and my skills are very limited

[Anonymous No.2750664]

Mix sacrette at a 2 - 3 slump slap it in and trowel it smooth.

[Anonymous No.2750665]

>>2750640

but I truly appreciate the detailed response anon

[Anonymous No.2750666]

>>2750653
Well shit. Yeah i would probably drill and pin some rebar or allthread with nuts and washers inside and out just slightly more than finger tight, form up the side and pour from the top if you can with regular concrete or if you cant get in from the top make a cement rich drypack and ram it in there from the side with a broom handle or board to pack it in nice and tight and then trowel it off smooth at the edge.

[Anonymous No.2750669]

>>2750664
This is basically what I was thinking. You think I should use a mortar bag and just like inject a bunch deep in there?

[Anonymous No.2750677]

You guys are based and I appreciate all of you.

>>2750666

The problem is, I don't know where the other side of this thing is, like I can't access this from the basement so I can't really drill through both sides

[Anonymous No.2750686]

>>2750658
You don’t need to do it all, but the more you do, the longer it will last.
Pinning it to the old foundation is pretty important—not doing that is why it opened up. May be still moving but it looks old, so likely less so.
Normally—before we pour the new foundation—we drill holes and put in a bunch of rebar stubs for the tie-in.

[Anonymous No.2750692]

>>2750686
… cont.
Looking at your pic, you’d drill from the outside of the new thing sticking through into the cinderblock.
I hope to hell they filled the cinderblock with concrete.
Anyway you get some grout or epoxy in old foundations cinderblock holes and shove the rod (bolt or rebar) through both.
You can try and grout the holes in the new, or use the bolt holes, or get these special bolts to go on the end of rebar. No not reef on these or they will crack or pull out.
The idea of the mold was to straighten that thing out and hide the bolt ends sticking out.

[Anonymous No.2750694]

>>2750686
Ah man anon this is extremely helpful. It's possible that I could drill through and use allthread like the other post suggested I just have no idea where the other side of this is. I went into the crawlspace where I thought it would be and couldn't make out anything distinct or helpful.

[Anonymous No.2750695]

>>2750692
… cont
Oh, and for a joint that size, you’re probably looking at about 6 holes with rebar stubs (or bolts).

It’s not as hard as it sounds, believe me.

If there is still a gap inside where it gets narrower and the cement didn’t flow, you might want to use floor leveller with no aggregate to seep in there for a good seal, if you can get to the top of it to pour it in. I use it to fill irregular cracks and support concrete where the underside has caved in in —
you can get a lot of it through a small hole.

[Anonymous No.2750698]

>>2750694
Yeah, allthread works fine if you want to go right through, although the zinc coating isn’t 25-year like it is on hot dip galvanized things.
Get like at least 1/2” but 5/8 or 3/4 is better still.

Like i said, normally we use rebar and don’t go all the way through, but that’s an ideal and every situation is different.

[Anonymous No.2750702]

Fuck all that, its not going anywhere
Fill it with 3 bags of sacrette call er good

[Anonymous No.2750704]

>>2750694
I'm honestly down to try and drill it and put some allthread in and really try to make it last as long as possible. But ok I think I will drill through and I will also take your advice about using floor leveller for a really good seal.

[Anonymous No.2750706]

honestly anons I feel so much better about this shit after making this thread, it was honestly freaking me tf out.

I truly appreciate each and everyone one of you space cowboys. I'm going to go to the store and I'll try to update you guys with a new thread later in the week. I have no time for anything serious today

[Anonymous No.2750708]

>>2750698
… i don’t know what this retard is doing, but see how long the nozzle is on the structural epoxy?
So if you drill from the outside all the way into half-way through the old foundation, you should be able to get that nozzle in to the old cinderblock part of the hole, then shocve the rebar through both into the epoxy, let that cure, then that’s your tie in to the old foundation

[Anonymous No.2750710]

>>2750633
How long do you plan on staying in this house before moving
>>2750640
>All this work
This is the correct way to do it, but I would put ply on each side and fill with a normal bag of cement and be done with it.

[Anonymous No.2750716]

>>2750708

Ahh ok so only drill halfway into the new one ok it's definitely coming together in my head now.

>>2750710
At the very least 10 years, hopefully a long ass time.
But yeah that's originally what I was thinking of doing but I think I can do a kind of best of both worlds and do a little tying together and then pour concrete in all on top of that.

[Anonymous No.2750863]

>>2750633
>This gap is where the old foundation meets the new foundation.
that's obviously not what it is at all...

[Anonymous No.2750881]

>>2750633
>This gap is where the old foundation meets the new foundation.
Bro that's a facade piece, not even the spiccest contractors are gonna lay a foundation wall that thin.

[Anonymous No.2750889]

>>2750863
I'm just going off whatcthe inspector said in his report. But please let me know if you can tell me more. The house is really old like there is this old has root cellar type room in rhe basement made of brick like even the floor is brick it's like there is a new Cinderblock basement but there is the old crawlspace and the old like cellar part too.

[Anonymous No.2750901]

>>2750889
nobody can tell from your shit photo. it looks like some nigger just leaned a piece of driveway against the wall

[Anonymous No.2750906]

>>2750901

This is from before but I'll take more tomorrow

[Anonymous No.2750912]

>>2750633
>I don't know what I'm doing but let me ignore what the guy that does know says and make this an enormous thing for no reason because I google told me sponsor-biased shit

[Anonymous No.2750921]

>>2750912
I literally have no idea what I'm doing, in his report it said hydraulic cement MAY be the solution. And he explained to me a little bit about it and emphasized the importance of wearing gloves. I was wondering if what he suggested is more like a band aid and wanted to see what else could be done.

I already have some quikrete from a previous project and I'm ok with using it for the most part but my knowledge is extremely limited.

I actually already bought the hydraulic cement as well but wanted to see what other options exist before I pulled the trigger.

[Anonymous No.2750922]

>>2750921
>I literally have no idea what I'm doing
So talk to a contractor.
Part of doing it yourself is knowing when you're beyond your own skill and finding someone that won't fuck your house up.

[Anonymous No.2750933]

>>2750922
I probably should get an estimate. Honestly I'm just going to do that first and then go from there. The house is pretty cobbled together and I feel like it was built by people going beyond their skill level.

[Anonymous No.2750996]

>>2750633

Make a stiff mortar mix and fill it up, no one's Gonna know

[Anonymous No.2751000]

>>2750906
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say those concrete slabs were prepoured leftovers from somewhere used to enclose the underside of a raised building. The metal parts look to me like bearer brackets for nogs between bearers. Is the front of the house to the right in this picture? Get a torch and see what you can see through that gap. I'm going to guess there'll be nothing there. I see a concut saw and a few stout fellas with shovels and crowbars in your future if so.

[Anonymous No.2751054]

>>2750906
Don't move that rock, breh.

[Anonymous No.2751149]

>>2751000
This is actually the back of the house but yeah basically nothing is behind there. I took this picture yesterday as well and I can see some super old bricks and what looks like wood maybe. I went into the crawlspace two days ago and then again yesterday just because I wanted to see if I could get any additional information but it was really hard to discern anything down there.

[Anonymous No.2751151]

>>2751000

Also, nice digits

[Anonymous No.2751153]

>>2751054

Kek

[Anonymous No.2751383]

>>2751149
i dunno wtf is going on here but the sill plate is probably fucked. your inspector is retarded and not worth whatever you paid him. what do you hope to achieve by filling this crack? it will do fuck all except maybe keep out animals. someone needs to jack up the house and replace all this bullshit.

[Anonymous No.2751389]

>>2750633
>listening to a home inspector
In my experience with these people I’m honestly surprised they don’t write their reports using half chewed crayons.

[Prez/o/ No.2751399]

>>2750633
It doesn’t look structural and I doubt it’s on a footing.
There was likely an access opening in the foundation at one point in time and they decided to close it up.
PL some plywood over the gap and call it a day.

[Anonymous No.2751403]

What is going on in this thread. Only one other anon realized that concrete this thin, under the siding (and not the structural part of the wall) is non-bearing.

[Prez/o/ No.2751409]

>>2751403
>anon

[Anonymous No.2751413]

>>2750633
Question: Are you in an area that experiences floods or earthquakes?

[Anonymous No.2751723]

>>2751399
Checked. But thats good to know, youre probably right its just this whole fucking house is like stitched together so if it's all done retardedly it wouldn't surprise me. I just ended up calling a contractor to come get a second opinion on this shit, he'll be over next Tuesday.

>>2751413
Not particularly prone to flooding where I am, I'm in the Midwest.

Honestly though, you anons really have made me feel a lot better about all this shit. I was basically able to buy this house because of /biz/ so I figured it would be fitting to come here to fix it. You guys are all fucking based and I truly appreciate all of you.

I will update with more pictures from the crawlspace this weekend and see if there is anything else to be determined from additional pictures.

[Anonymous No.2751765]

>>2751409
I never look at the name field. Fine, namefag. Even worse then.

[Anonymous No.2751935]

>>2751409
apologies Mr. prez/o/