/3DPG/

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/3DPG/ Anonymous Mon Feb 15 23:49:47 2021 No.2032312 [Reply] [Original]

Worst Layer Edition
Old thread: >>2029310
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 01:11:18 2021 No.2032364 first for my klipper installation is still not printing usable results >>2031065 15-20 since I got it maybe 9 months ago? just recently I went through 4 spools of pla to print speaker housings + VR kit holders and 2kg of petg for drawerboxes

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 01:16:04 2021 No.2032368 second for noob question just pulled the trigger on a ender 5, do you guys have any experience with that printer and is there anything I should know before it arrives (things/issues to watch out for really im talking about)?

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 01:43:50 2021 No.2032390
File: 1.35 MB, 1280x960, fuckshit.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

So /3DPG/ after printing PLA successfully for about 2 months i tried my hand at some PETG. As you can see, it prints like absolute shit.
I got some "Průša" PETG from my university and it drives me completely nuts. I have an Anycubic Mega S. Print settings are 240°C hotend temperature and my heated bed is 85°C for the first and then 90°C for subsequent layers, fan is at 100% for the first layer and then reduced to 30%. I read all the troubleshooting and fiddled with retraction and temperature settings but they did not really do much. The main problem is that the first layer wont stick at all even most sites say that PETG on heated glass should stick like a motherfucker.
As you can see stringing is also out of this world, going much lower than 240°C on my hotend and i feel like my extruder motor starts to skip. Additionally, i have warping at the corners after an hour or two even after printing with a brim.
So pretty much everything that can go wrong does - is it just wet PETG? I think it was stored unpacked in a lab for 3 months or something, could this be enough to go bad like that?

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 01:57:59 2021 No.2032393

>>2032390
If you put something like that in an acetone vapour bath for smoothing, would all those strings just vanish? Also I wonder if there are people whose printers wind the filament stepper in reverse by a mm or so when moving the hotend across gaps, to potentially reduce stringing.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 02:13:02 2021 No.2032400

>>2032393
As far as I know, acetone does not really do anything to PETG, it is used for ABS tho. I don't have a workshop so I am a bit weary playing around with chemical fumes in my apartment.
Also I think thats exactly what the option "Retraction Distance" does in Cura, it pulls back the filament before moving. I have it at 6mm at the moment - still that much stringing and with the nasty side-effect that i feel the filament does not come out fast enough at the next starting point. leading to more fucked up layers.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 02:14:27 2021 No.2032402 >>2032400 Mine is at 8mm retract, try that or go even higher.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 02:23:24 2021 No.2032406 >>2032400 >Also I think thats exactly what the option "Retraction Distance" does in Cura Oh neat. Don't have a 3D printer yet fyi.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 02:24:52 2021 No.2032409 >>2032390 Ngl, youre settings are so fucked up im positive impressed by the outcome

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 02:35:13 2021 No.2032413
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>>2032409
Care to enlighten me then? For the settings I went with the ones found on various forums and the prusa website. I tried printing a temperature tower which failed because again, no fucking bed adhesion and just peeled of twice while printing.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 02:44:40 2021 No.2032418 >>2032413 You didnt read shit Even the most basic of the basics differs greatly from the consensus and default values. One could say lurk 2 years. I give you 2 hints. For petg all print moves at the same speed and low retraction

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 02:46:20 2021 No.2032419 >>2032368 Probably needs some quality of life upgrades like quiet fans, other than that I can't think of a contra >>2032390 throw it in an oven at 60degrees for a few hours, that should do t. denim anon

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 03:00:56 2021 No.2032424 >>2032400 Run this retraction tuning and see if you can get it dialed in https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 03:18:30 2021 No.2032425 >>2032418 One could just ask helpful anons with more experience than me. >>2032419 >>2032424 Thanks for the advice I will try that.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 04:58:13 2021 No.2032447 File: 463 KB, 1920x1280, IMG_0527.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] The prusa mini seriously needs to be included in the OP copypasta

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 04:59:35 2021 No.2032449 >>2032447 Under the section "Printers you should not buy"?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:02:03 2021 No.2032450 >>2032390 Clean up your glass bed and turn off your fans. >fan is at 100% for the first layer what the fuck are you doing anon, it's like you want it to fail

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:03:11 2021 No.2032451 >>2032449 It could save anons from getting that sort of a mess at a similar price range... >>2032390

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:08:20 2021 No.2032452 File: 2.66 MB, 3264x1836, IMG_20210216_120638.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Gosh I sure do love printing PETG without any issues, having prints fail would certainly be very frustrating...

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:10:29 2021 No.2032453 >>2032447 Since zero people ITT have bought one, I'm not putting it in.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:10:59 2021 No.2032454 >>2032451 The Mega S costs 200€ delivered. The Prusa Mini costs more than double at 419€, excluding shipping costs. You can buy the Qidi X-One2 for less than a Mini if you want something that just works.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:11:52 2021 No.2032455

>>2032450
I'm cleaning the pre-heated glass with IPA before every print.
In hindsight, 100% fan at the first layer really does seem like a retard move - thats what i get from blindly copying some settings from some guy in a forum "who prints really well" with those. Thanks for your input anon

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:15:32 2021 No.2032456 >>2032454 Qidi does not appear to have auto-leveling. Is Anycubic Chiron better than Prusa Mini+? They're both basically the same price.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:16:38 2021 No.2032457 >>2032456 >Is Anycubic Chiron better than Prusa Mini+? It's about eight times as big, so yes, quanitfiably better.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:21:05 2021 No.2032460 >>2032457 Hmm, that actually might be my upgrade after Ender 3. Creality CR-10 S5 has almost double the price but only 10x10x5 bigger build volume.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:21:34 2021 No.2032461 >>2032456 The Chiron is a massive build volume printer - how are they comparable? And the Qidi has an easy levelling program that takes 1 minute.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:22:26 2021 No.2032462 File: 76 KB, 610x560, chiron.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2032457 Hmm, that actually might be my upgrade after Ender 3. Creality CR-10 S5 has almost double the price but only 10x10x5 bigger build volume. Should read up more on it.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:24:33 2021 No.2032463 >>2032457 >bigger means automatically better Sometimes I wonder whether you guys are joking, malignantly misleading, or just plain ignorant.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:25:03 2021 No.2032464

>>2032456
>Qidi does not appear to have auto-leveling.
Who cares? It takes about one minute, and on the UM2's I run, I can go about a month without releveling as long as nobody touches it or I swap the nozzles. That's with roughly 4-6 hours of printing every workday, on average.

>>2032462
It's a good printer, autoleveling is shite but who cares, just leave it off. Bought one, paid for itself in a single print, sold it, and now looking to buy a couple for the lab I'm working in. The build volume per dollar is amazing, CR-10S5 can't touch it, the only reason to buy the Creality is if you desperately need the 500mm build volume.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:29:05 2021 No.2032467
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>>2032463
Yes, bigger is actually better. If you'd actually print a bunch and design your own parts, you'll quickly learn that one of the big restrictions is your build volume, and 220mm ain't enough. 400 is better, but the week I bought my Chiron I got a request for a 450mm part, so I had to severely modify the model to get it to fit and get paid. In the 500USD price bracket, there's basically two options: several of the good ~200USD 220mm printers, or a bigger printer like a Chiron or CR-10 if you need it, because two 220mm printers aren't a substitute fora 400mm unit. FYI, it still ain't big enough. Never is. The day I told people I was going to build a 2000x1500x1200mm printer, I got requests for a 2000x1500x1500mm part.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:35:45 2021 No.2032468

>>2032464
>Who cares? It takes about one minute
I had very bad experiences with manual leveling issues with my Ender despite everyone else being okay.
I want to avoid it at all costs. I've lost tens of hours just to leveling and I have a job, attend university, like to sleep, and 3D printing is just a small part of my hobby.
>That's with roughly 4-6 hours of printing every workday
Of course it would take a minute if you do it for a job.
I only have one printer and so far printed one spool in one year.
>autoleveling is shite
Do you mean it doesn't work and I will have to level it by hand anyway?
Or it does work but the quality is not top notch?
I don't care about quality, just want to be able to batch-print over the whole bed without leveling it manually.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:42:02 2021 No.2032470

>>2032468
I have a printer with manual and one with auto levelling. It really doesn't save you time or anything.
I trust a properly manual levelled printer much more than an autoleveled one.
It stays level for a long time while I have to run autolevelling before every single print or I'm getting problems.

I don't have an Ender. It sounds like the bed mount is crap. That fucks you over regardless of manual or automatic levelling.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 05:45:50 2021 No.2032472

>>2032468
>Ender
Have you tried locknuts? Bedflingers can work themselves loose a bit quicker, but should still hold leveling for more than several spools worth of print time.

>Or it does work but the quality is not top notch?
Mostly this. I've had terrible results, and since I'm comfortable with manual leveling, threw the module out and properly did it. My mate who bought the printer put it back on, got decent results.

>>2032470
>I trust a properly manual levelled printer much more than an autoleveled one.
This. An autoleveled printer will keep moving in the Z-axis during printing which may throw a spanner in all your other tuning parameters.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 08:36:43 2021 No.2032529 File: 259 KB, 1600x900, screen.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] is the SKR V1.5 Turbo legit? also cop or not for $134? I want to print nerf and real guns.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 08:40:36 2021 No.2032533 >>2032529 Is that a CoreXY? Looks pretty good.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 09:02:17 2021 No.2032546 >>2032447 >Lead time: ???

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 09:03:27 2021 No.2032548 >>2032456 >Qidi does not appear to have auto-leveling. It's 150mm of build area. Auto-leveling such a small bed is a waste of time and faster to do with paper

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 09:06:24 2021 No.2032552 >>2032447 >buying a cantilever printer

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 09:12:36 2021 No.2032558 >>2032467 You're living my dream. Print a couch.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 09:14:59 2021 No.2032560 >>2032552 The Mini wouldn't be such an awful choice if only Prusa would offer an upgrade path to a full i3. But 400$ for getting stuck with such a shit tier printer is retarded.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 10:32:43 2021 No.2032620 >>2032529 Thanks for the heads up on that deal I just ordered one

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 10:49:00 2021 No.2032634 >>2032620 glad to help, I hope you enjoy it and get a lot of great prints from it.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 10:50:02 2021 No.2032638 >>2032620 I hope you used the app for the cheap price

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 10:54:01 2021 No.2032641 >>2032634 >>2032638 No, installing their chink app wasn't worth an extra $4 discount desu

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 10:55:09 2021 No.2032642 >>2032634 >>2032638 >>2032641 Also, I got the $200 400x400x400 build volume version, the extra build volume seemed well worth the extra ~$30

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:02:27 2021 No.2032650 File: 208 KB, 1600x900, Untitled.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] i know its mismarked, but do you think they will fulfill it? pic related >>2032641 its worth taking $20 bucks off.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:06:43 2021 No.2032654 >>2032650 I tried buying some mismarked item from Ali before. It wasn't even extreme, just like a third cheaper. Anyway, they tried to bullshit me for a month until I opened a dispute to get my money back.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:09:18 2021 No.2032657 File: 1.37 MB, 2610x4640, IMG_20210216_163316.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] BMG clone arrived. Obviously the screws are too short for the support I printed so I need to get 40mm ones

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:11:10 2021 No.2032659 >>2032654 I dont trust dhgate's card processing. everyone i know has had POS purchases all over the world after buying fro them.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:12:00 2021 No.2032660 >>2032650 I wasn't offered $20 off for using the app

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:20:43 2021 No.2032669 >>2032650 Drop a link I'll risk it

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:24:42 2021 No.2032672 >>2032669 heres a pastebin since the spam warning popped up like a fag https://pastebin.com/d16fkrU3

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:27:08 2021 No.2032677 >>2032672 I took the risk, but it looks like a scam seller. All their items are stupid prices dhgate(D0T)com/store/21617151

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:29:43 2021 No.2032683 >>2032677 Unless this idiot just put the decimal in the wrong place for every single item in their store... It actually looks like that. The ebike should be about $900, the printer, all of it looks like a misplaced decimal

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:31:06 2021 No.2032684 >>2032312 >DIY skills are now blasting out plastic shit on a printer LOL

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:33:24 2021 No.2032687 >>2032683 Lmao a "PlayStation 5" for $45. I'll have to dispute for my $6 I guess because I ordered two lmao

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:40:58 2021 No.2032694 >>2032684 If you did it it's DIY I think that's the simplest definition unless you specifically want everyone to be like those primitivist guys on youtube and produce all the parts from materials found in nature

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:47:21 2021 No.2032702 Other than zip ties, cable chains and that woven nylon mesh tube stuff, is there a good way to manage all the wires and stuff coming off these printers?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:49:10 2021 No.2032704 >>2032694 Whatever you say boss

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 11:58:25 2021 No.2032716 >>2032467 >I got requests for a 2000x1500x1500mm part. who is ordering parts this large? Is it practical to print at that size? Do your prints stay dimensionally accurate or are these more decorative?

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 12:11:49 2021 No.2032724

>>2032702
There are some sort of cable chains that are basically a wide strip of plastic that spirals, you could try those too.
Other ways to manage cables could be to use the printer frame as a mass contact just like it's done in cars so you can cut down on the amount of cables running all over the place. Stuff like the heater and the fans could be wired like this, run only the positive to the hotend, connect all negatives to the carriage and then connect the printer frame to the negative of the PSU. Obviously this requires the gantries to be connected to the main printer frame electrically, so a V roller printer probably won't support this out of the box.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 12:24:13 2021 No.2032729

>be me
>always go for cheapo FEP films from Ali
>they invariably just ship between a couple of sheets of cardboard or styrofoam
>decide to treat myself to Elegoo brand FEP
>it comes in a sturdy book-style packaging with actual foam inserts
this feels so... luxurious

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 12:31:38 2021 No.2032740 >>2032400 >so I am a bit weary playing wary or leery, pick one

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 12:33:35 2021 No.2032742 >>2032453 Then put in the monoprice mini delta. It's a legit good buy for "not sure I want a 3D printer". hell you put my prints in the OP enough might as well add my printer... ;D

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 12:44:31 2021 No.2032745 File: 337 KB, 1641x972, dhgate.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2032650 >>2032669 >>2032672 for $3 how could you go wrong? is dhgate real? this seems fucking ridiculous, just dropped december 2020 and it's $70

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 12:55:53 2021 No.2032751 >>2032467 What main board are you using on that monster? What above the rest of the parts like the steppers, stepper motors, extruder, hotend, etc? Pretty bad ass anon!

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 13:00:15 2021 No.2032756

>>2032657
Funny, I bought one branded WINSINN and it came with the same exact piece of paper. The mount that came with it didn't fit, so I ended up just mounting it in the regular spot instead of on the backside. I was able to use the hardware that came with it that way.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 13:11:59 2021 No.2032762

>>2032724
How dangerous is that sort of hookup? Can you still touch the printer while it is on without it shocking the heck out of you? Reminds me of the type of power connector they use in those 6-axis robot arms where it's just a copper ring in the base and there's a connector on the bottom of the arm (I think).

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 13:20:03 2021 No.2032768

>>2032762
It's just 12/24V man, it wouldn't kill you. You're connecting the DC negative to the frame, not the AC.
You wouldn't be able to work on the wires while powered because you risk shorting if a powered wire touches the frame, but otherwise it's not any more dangerous to the user than a printer with stock wires.

In regards to printer electrics it's a mains powered bed that gives me the chills. I wouldn't touch such a printer while plugged in no matter what.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 13:20:09 2021 No.2032769 >>2032724 >>2032762 >printer frame as a mass contact nigga your board controls those parts via npn transistor if you hook it up like this, all components on this grid would run at 100% and ignore the mainboard control signals

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 13:24:30 2021 No.2032776

>>2032529
did everything I could including app and mobile number and only got it down to $152 shipped to US. there is a ~134 model Tronxy but it wasn't the same model. still not clear if this will have touchpad but still seems like hell of a deal regardless. Also discover disallowed my transaction the first go round.

Thanks for posting anon, I needed an excuse.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 13:26:08 2021 No.2032778

>>2032769
The transistor only acts on the positive, the negative of those is connected through the board to the negative of the PSU wires.
I'm just bypassing the board and connecting the negatives to the PSU directly, how would that fuck up the control?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 14:02:14 2021 No.2032819 >>2032778 N channel as on all 3d printer boards switch the gnd line If you connect the negative of the heater cardridge to the psu you would melt the hotend

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 14:42:47 2021 No.2032857 what fans on ali are actually good? looking for 4020 5015 6015 etc gdstime seems ok but most are saying they are way louder than rated

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:08:07 2021 No.2032874 File: 3.75 MB, 275x206, awyeamf.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >mfw hemera and mini e3 2.0 come in the mail

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:15:52 2021 No.2032881

>>2032716
>who is ordering parts this large?
Companies that want big shtuff, like molds and such.
>Is it practical to print at that size?
Yes, but it requires pellet feeding instead f filament.
>Do your prints stay dimensionally accurate or are these more decorative?
Dimensionally accurate as a percentage, which means you either have rough parts or they need finishing.

>>2032742
I'm not the OP who OP's, I'm the OP who made the pastebin. And fuck deltas.

>>2032751
It's an ancient conversion still in progress, most fo the hardware is two decades old, almost three. We're trying to keep the existing servos, if not, dedicated stepper drivers with bigass motors, no extruder, but a pellet hotend.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:22:29 2021 No.2032890 >>2032467 what an obnoxious post. has your electronics guy figured out how to hook up the motros yet? You seemed to dense to grasp the basic terminology on that topic.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:26:51 2021 No.2032893 Anyone know where I could buy one of those containers they used for the wash/cure stations, with the strainer built in? I can't find anything but pickle containers and they won't do because the strainer goes all the way down to the floor of the tub

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:30:44 2021 No.2032898 >>2032819 Then do it the other way around and have positive on mass contact instead.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:31:46 2021 No.2032901 >>2032857 Sunon

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:31:57 2021 No.2032902 >>2032898 Honestly shocked that you came up with such a grounded idea, anon.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:40:08 2021 No.2032911 File: 174 KB, 1438x435, Screenshot_20210216-153941_Discord.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] This is the safe space world we live in

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:41:04 2021 No.2032912 >>2032898 you convinced me just do it already

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:43:45 2021 No.2032913

>>2032911
lol yeah you gotta watch yourself on random discords, discord rules and mods are just like forum mods of yesteryear, but now they're all hopped up on social justice.

However faggoty their rules are, real men don't post dumb memes in discord let alone anywhere :^)

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:44:36 2021 No.2032915

>>2032912
Anon, I'm not the one inconvenienced by the wires. It's this guy >>2032702 who is.

>>2032902
I thought it was pretty obvious that you can mass contact the side which you don't have to switch. I just had no idea that printer boards switch the negative like some meming contrarians and not the positive like everyone else does.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:45:07 2021 No.2032916 >>2032913 You sure owned me with your smiley face, faggot. You are the essence of man.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:54:53 2021 No.2032924 >>2032911 Tinkercad is for faggots though.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 15:56:20 2021 No.2032927 File: 47 KB, 450x300, unnamed (10).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2032924

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 16:01:25 2021 No.2032936

After using the BLTouch to probe my bed using the UBL leveling method, I did a G26 to print the validation mesh, but it didn't stick at all. Does this just mean that my Z probe offset is wrong? Does it need to go closer? What I mean is does the negative number need to get bigger or smaller? Because when I use a piece of paper under the nozzle it catches the paper pretty good, so I don't see how it's not able to get the print to stick to the bed.
When I went through the Z Probe Wizard, my number I ended up in was originally -6.8. that didn't stick. I went through again and dropped to -6.9. still didn't stick. -7 stuck in some places. -7.1 seemed way too close to the bed as the lines didn't look as wide as they should have been.
What is more likely: my mesh is wrong or the Z probe offset is wrong?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 16:02:55 2021 No.2032938 >>2032936 G26 is fucking useless it drags the nozzle over printed sections without any z hop. Print a big square across the whole bed instead.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 16:08:24 2021 No.2032941 >>2032902 Carlos!

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 16:08:43 2021 No.2032942 >>2032924 This. Real men use sketchup 2017 or something when it was free

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 16:29:43 2021 No.2032961 >>2032901 they don't sell blowers also most on ali are used the new ones aren't that cheap either I bought a couple and they were used but seller didn't specify that, one of them is already being wonky

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 16:32:28 2021 No.2032964 >>2032901 >>2032961 interesting just found a sunon blower will have to see

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 18:01:03 2021 No.2033036 Anyone give me a QRD on shopping for jst connectors? I just got some blower fans for my printer and I forgot to use my brain and didn't notice that the wires are like 5" long. I got the winsinn brand 5015 blowers for reference.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 18:47:16 2021 No.2033078 >>2032312 blt in place...firmware a go..... won't autohome now > wut do

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 19:14:05 2021 No.2033096 >>2032915 I'm not inconvenienced by wires, I was merely curious if there were any interesting or novel ways for managing them. Mine are all over the place though because I cut the zip ties and haven't replaced them yet.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 19:16:55 2021 No.2033098 >>2032938 Yeah I noticed that, too. OK well maybe I can just make my own model or something or maybe there is something out there already because I need to test the probe points and fine tune them still.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 19:18:11 2021 No.2033101 >>2033036 Well there's a few different types, easiest way to match them up is by looking at a chart, just search for "JST chart" and compare. I think they are the XH ones but I could be wrong. They also come in different sizes.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 19:19:25 2021 No.2033102 >>2033078 What does it do when you try to auto home? You should turn on safe homing if you haven't already.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 19:50:35 2021 No.2033122
File: 20 KB, 628x472, 18679d58df5176e609f69450b79e3a87_preview_featured.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

How tight does the hotend connector need to be? I'm begining to think my stringing and oozing is coming from something not right enough. There's no tinkering cura or my firmware thst has solved my issue.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 20:03:09 2021 No.2033126

>>2032702
split loom
spiral loom
/diy/ electrical tape loom (nobody on the internet does it correctly)
bondage tape (I use it for board game organization- no sticky shit)
baggie ties aka twist ties
velcro loops
heat shrink tubing
other wires (single strand works best, use like twist ties)
braid your loom

that's all I can think of off the top of my head.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 20:09:59 2021 No.2033129

>>2033122
is yours not tight? gently tight (ikea furnature hex wrench) should be sufficient, you don't want to strip anything and it's not like cranking it down is going to make a difference. how seated your bowden tube is probably matters more and of course if the nozzle is tight. you can check if the hot end connector is tight when hot I guess, but I still don't see why it would cause problems. you know your filament shouldn't be melting back that far, right?

also have you tried other filament? PETG is just fuck-you tier stringing, and I've seen similar with black PLA.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 20:10:41 2021 No.2033130 >>2033122 Pic shown is of a short ptfe hotend fix like in the CHEP video. If you are doing that everything must be tight and the PTFE 'slug' of tube you put in the hotend has to be slightly oversized so the nozzle smashes it tightly

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 20:11:03 2021 No.2033131 >>2032911 Real otherkin use tinkercad!

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 20:16:34 2021 No.2033133 File: 3.93 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_20210216_184721_DRO_copy_4032x3024.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] why is this flat piece bubbling up in this one corner? The brim is perfect so why is the actual layer garbage? Is my bed warped?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 20:22:18 2021 No.2033138 >>2033133 Your slicer might be using a different flow rate for the brim? That looks too close to the bed in that section / overextruding, anyway.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 20:23:31 2021 No.2033139 I've been using Blender to create my models for over 3 years now. I'm wanting to learn AutoCAD, but this shit doesn't make any sense. Fuck'n A

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 20:23:45 2021 No.2033140 >>2032745 im going to the store to get a vanilla visa giftcard to buy some of this shit. >>2032776 glad to be of service to the community.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 20:38:51 2021 No.2033145 >>2033139 Your problem might be trying to bring your blender work flow over to autocad, it doesn't work that way. You need a different mindset and workflow for CAD versus modeling.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 20:44:32 2021 No.2033149 >>2033145 No kidding. Time to make the basic models again.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 20:57:26 2021 No.2033162 >>2033133 your bed isn't hot enough. I don't know if a bigger brim will help. maybe hairspray or glue?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 20:58:45 2021 No.2033164 >>2033139 real autocad? what isn't making sense?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 21:00:32 2021 No.2033166 one of my "good" micro SD cards failed and despite formatting on the computer keeps failing. I don't see how to format on the printer. what can I do to unfuck this micro SD?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 21:04:08 2021 No.2033171 >>2033166 if it's not even formatting correctly then it's most likely fucked. Time for a new one unless you have a scanning electron microscope and a really steady hand.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 21:14:52 2021 No.2033182 >>2033162 it's not simply adhesion because the far side is perfect too.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 21:17:56 2021 No.2033188 >>2033139 >AutoCAD Why would anyone ever willingly want to learn autocad? Learn fusion360 (as much as I hate it) because it allows you to use 3d modeling that autocad doesn't. Although, I would suggest you pirate solidworks instead.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 21:22:36 2021 No.2033191 >>2033188 One day I'll install SW. I'm a tad lazy. I'll find different ways of doing stuff.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 21:23:38 2021 No.2033193 File: 40 KB, 960x540, bus.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2032172 nvm figured it out

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 21:25:42 2021 No.2033200 >>2033182 >it's not simply adhesion because the far side is perfect too. I mean that's exactly what happens when my adhesion is shit, but hey, you do you.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 21:26:43 2021 No.2033202 >>2033193 no one was concerned

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 21:29:34 2021 No.2033206 >>2033202 I can see why you replied.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 21:33:44 2021 No.2033207 >>2033206 yeah, I just wanted to point out you're an ass. I wasn't trying to be subtle.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 21:35:01 2021 No.2033208 >>2033207 Retard

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 16 21:38:40 2021 No.2033210 >>2033139 don't use autoCAD. autoCAD is not really geared towards making 3D models its more for plotting.

Anonymous Tue Feb 16 23:14:51 2021 No.2033274

Poor experience with a vendor called 3dfused. I bought a linear rail setup from them for an ender 3 I intended to build into an enclosed ABS / Nylon machine because their parts were only a little more than sourcing them myself and they came with a nice cnc cut gantry. Delivery was slow, but it did arrive (took about 3.5 weeks, but it was during the holidays and usps was ultragay then so that may not be entirely their fault).

I decided to swap the extruder to a bondtech bmg and hot end for a mosquito and run some polycarbonate. They sell an adapter plate that fits a linear rail carriage nicely and I figured I would buy the hotend from them in the interest of supporting small businesses or something.

Going on 3 weeks, it had yet to ship and they will not respond to any inquiries for status. I know 3d printing shit is largely a cottage industry in the US for components and small parts other than imported Chinese stuff, but I hate getting skunked when I try to buy from the small guy. If they would just have responded back with a "hey, your shit's on backorder (even though it showed in stock)" that would be cool, but I dont like having $300 in parts I can buy off the shelf from bigger distributors and have in 2 days with free shipping tied up forever with no response whatsoever as to the status.

More than anything it just pisses me off because I took the printer apart and I dont want to reassemble it until I have the parts in hand, so I've got to stare at this parted out printer on my bench until this shit shows up or I dispute the charge.

Thanks for listening to my TED talk, if you're a small vendor respond to your fucking emails, especially if you have an automated ticket handler that assures customers of a 24 hour max wait and they literally just want an update on order status. And they're dumb enough to give you a total of $525 to pimp out a $160 chinese shitbox.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 00:48:28 2021 No.2033342 File: 2.99 MB, 4000x3000, 20210217_004635.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2032312 By far the best PLA settings I have ever used for any decent printer. Pic related. Why do manufacturers put bed heat to 50?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 00:50:22 2021 No.2033345 >>2033274 This is why I get everything from Amazon.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 00:51:29 2021 No.2033347 >>2033274 Also should have gotten the ender 5 pro, ender 5+, or ender 6. The ender 3 is like 3 years out of date.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 00:53:58 2021 No.2033348

>>2033139
I've heard of people using AutoCAD but for plotters. Why switch? Blender is by far the best option out there. Fusion360 is 2nd place but it's a country mile between as far as modeling goes. I really hate fusion360. You will too. What's your reason for switching from Blender?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 00:55:14 2021 No.2033349 >>2033188 Blender>Fusion360 by a country mile.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 00:59:51 2021 No.2033351 >>2033348 I needed something that blender didn't have, and that I thought paid software would. Ended up writing a script to generate g-code instead and skipped the intermediate modeling step.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 01:06:32 2021 No.2033356 >>2033342 Faster heatup times, less electricity usage, still functions if you've got a decent bed.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 01:07:53 2021 No.2033358 >>2033274 Should have bought a Prusa

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 01:29:58 2021 No.2033370 are there any online companies that will send you a roll of recycled filament after you send them X kg of scrap? I've been printing more and more with supports lately and it's not an insignificant amount of plastic to throw away over long term

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 01:31:44 2021 No.2033371 >>2033351 Have you looked at openScad?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 01:36:01 2021 No.2033374 >>2033351 What did you need friend? Please be as specific as possible. I've been at this for a very long time.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 01:40:27 2021 No.2033377

>>2033370
Nothing exists for free friend. Sorry. Re-pet 3d will work with you giving you discounts if you label all your waste and ship it to them at your cost but it doesn't even out, and you end up paying more in the long run than you would for a roll of filament.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 01:47:16 2021 No.2033379

>>2033356
Ah I see. I was struggling with adhesion until Google told me to use 65-70. The aladdin song a whole new world started playing in my head when print after print was successful. 20c was all I needed. I'll pay the extra electricity costs I don't care.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 02:00:10 2021 No.2033388

>>2032938
So I was looking at G26.cpp in the source code and there is actually supposed to be a Z hop if the movement isn't on the same line. Guess it's a bug. I'm using the most recent (up to a few days ago) bugfix version of Marlin. I'll probably do something like compare my G26.cpp to the most recent Stable and Bugfix versions and try whatever one is different. Maybe it will work then.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 02:03:56 2021 No.2033389 >>2032964 They surely have 5015s as I have one. Not cheap for a chink fan (it was like 10$) but it's got balanced fins. Also it's dead silent at 99% and jet engine at 100%. I only set it at 100% when printing bridges

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 02:06:55 2021 No.2033394 >>2033349 Before they locked everything behind a paywall? No. Now that they nerfed it into oblivion? No contest, even other shittier cad systems are better.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 02:09:10 2021 No.2033395 >>2033274 >getting original BMG and original mosquito hotend for an ender This really is like putting a bowtie on a pig

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 02:19:55 2021 No.2033397 >>2033349 Blender is not a proper CAD

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 02:21:23 2021 No.2033400 >>2033349 This. >>2033397 I love Blender to death but you can't pretend it's a replacement for Fusion. It's not even parametric.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 02:22:43 2021 No.2033401

>>2033274
>cunt orders a bunch of parts from me
>let them know lead time is a few weeks to a couple of months
>they start emailing me about the status after 2 weeks
>completely ignore them until the parts arrive
>finally respond to email after 5 weeks
fuck custies

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 02:29:38 2021 No.2033404

>>2033394
Download the source code and compile it lol. It's really not hard to find everything you need for free. Yes it's legal to do. The paywall is only there for enterprise. For the common user it's still 100% free. The same thing is happening with libreoffice 7. You need to use the free for personal use build of blender. I get that Ton's management skills leave much to be desired but you don't need to pay for anything unless you plan on using it to make money off of your product, then yes you owe them money. Cost of doing business. I, for one, am glad for this because it brings foss into the limelight. It gives free software, income generation and much needed revenue to produce quality applications.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 02:32:36 2021 No.2033406

>>2033401
Lol after reading his post it seems like a lot of his issues are caused by his own doing and lack of foresight. Ignore the aspies. They constantly shit on Creality as well. Then they'll shit on Prusa. Then they'll find someone else to shit on. I sincerely wish they'd find other hobbies... I think their hobby is to shit post. It's all so tiring.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 02:48:29 2021 No.2033409 >>2033377 Point out where I said I expected it for free

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 02:59:35 2021 No.2033413 >>2033409 The issue is that it still requires raw materials, costs more in the long run, and does very little in the way of reducing waste. Where you live, they don't recycle as part of your taxes?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 03:06:41 2021 No.2033416 >>2033413 imagine being so autistic that you can't even say "no" or "i dont know"

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 03:16:16 2021 No.2033422 >>2033140 and I bought 6 ender 5 plus' and 4 CR-6SE's. $14.94 S&H inc.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 03:18:40 2021 No.2033424 >>2033422 I distinctly typed 3 instead of 6, and 4. wtf fbi?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 03:34:10 2021 No.2033429 >>2033404 >download the source code and compile it lol >source code >for Fusion 360 >free and legal nigga

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 03:55:38 2021 No.2033446 >>2033130 My Boden tube may not go all the way down, what's the cleanest easy to pull it out? Do I cut the pla and extrude it all out? Pull it out?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 04:17:54 2021 No.2033454 >>2033406 amazon has spoiled people for shipping and set their expectations way too high especially if they dealing with a small business instead of a giant like amazon

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 04:22:08 2021 No.2033457
File: 107 KB, 1500x1003, 81HC3wsgNrL._SL1500_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2033446
push the plastic connector down and just pull the tube out
when you cut the tube you want it to be perfectly flat
there are jigs you can print to help assist you with this or you can buy some upgraded capricorn tubing and pick out a bundle that comes with a cutter

>>	Humidanon Wed Feb 17 04:31:27 2021 No.2033460 >>2033454 Don't worry, Amazon will make sure small business isn't a thing.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 04:49:28 2021 No.2033462

Anyone here have experience with dissolvable or breakaway support material? I recently got an IDEX machine set up and printing reliably, and want to start exploring those options now. Could anyone recommend the best PVA filament brands, or best breakaway support options?

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 05:39:19 2021 No.2033475

>everyone recommends DD setups
>meanwhile voron printers are bowden-fed
i'm looking to improve my e3p with it BMG clone a bit and was thinking about going back to a Bowden setup so the toolhead is lighter. Accel-tuning didn't improve it that much and I'm rarely printing tpu

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 05:40:55 2021 No.2033476 Should I wait until that Creality belt printer comes to reputable stores, or should I start building my own Voron-like printer? I need big build volumes, but only really in one direction.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 05:52:49 2021 No.2033480
File: 2.23 MB, 4000x3000, 20210217_054626.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2033416
I do know and I know more than you because I tried it. The filament was garbage, cost more, clogged my printer, and the tolerances are just shit compared to a normal filament.
Imagine being such an asshole to someone trying to help. Kill yourself asshole.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 05:55:12 2021 No.2033482

>>2033476
People are building their own belt printers but the belts are pretty damn expensive. There is a group you can join and get in on a group buy for the material, but it's still close to $400 for the belt I think. So factor that in, how much it will cost to build a Voron VS a belt printer VS just waiting for Creality.'s machine, which will be over $1000.
How big of a volume do you need?

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 05:55:56 2021 No.2033483
File: 38 KB, 1205x463, 1597978716199.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2033475
>>meanwhile voron printers are bowden-fed
While bowden is an option the website recommends direct drive.

Also if you really want to go fast on the Ender you need to start with the steppers. The Y stepper especially, it's fairly undersized if you plan to go fast. You'll get far more performance from upgrading the steppers than by handicapping yourself with a bowden extruder.
If you're really that concerned over the weight of a DD setup you can use a geared extruder so you can use a small stepper or one of those extruders with integrated heatsinks. Either provides weight savings and you can find systems like the Titan Aero which do both.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 05:56:12 2021 No.2033484 >>2033460 I run a small business and sell my product on Amazon. I do alright. >>2033454 You can have high expectations and not be an asshole, but by the quality of the posts I'm beginning to wonder if people have the ability to be decent anymore.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 06:04:25 2021 No.2033485

>>2033483
Ender 5 pro here with said bowden extruder. I concur. I ended up installing a direct drive, and was basically required to upgrade the stepper motors to upgrade speed and linear rails to keep accuracy. I'd like to switch to rack and pinion and be done with the belts and pullies but finding the damn kits are impossible now.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 06:18:16 2021 No.2033488 >>2033483 What size stepper motors do you recommend upgrading for the X/Y/Z axis on the Ender 3? Is there a reputable brand of stepper motors or all they all pretty much chinkshit ?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 06:27:31 2021 No.2033490 >>2033480 imagine someone calling you autistic again and crying about it

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 06:49:14 2021 No.2033496
File: 25 KB, 335x352, fgsfds.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Quick question.

If I tell CURA to pause the print at a certain height, it pauses and immediately starts cooling down. Is there any way to make the print pause while keeping the nozzle/bed at printing temperatures?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 06:55:29 2021 No.2033499 >>2033496 Seems like it's inserting temperature stop codes at that height, go into the GCode and manual edit that shit out.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 06:55:31 2021 No.2033500
File: 2.86 MB, 1080x1920, t_video5866061307765066059.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

So I've been having these oozing problems for a week now.
I've set all the retractions and retraction speeds I can think of, tried combing, tried coasting, no dice.

I've replaced the bowden tubing and cleaned out the nozzle and hotend inside.
Pressed in the tubing nice and hard against the nozzle (Maybe too hard?).

This is the result, any ideas?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 06:56:45 2021 No.2033501 >>2033500 Current retraction set at 1.4 and speed at 45. You can clearly see the material ozzing from the nozzle in between travels

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 06:58:12 2021 No.2033502

>>2033488
I don't know if there's any specific brand to use, I just got 2 of these from TL:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32878690112.html
They're higher torque than the 34mm ones you have stock on the printer and they have 0.9 degree steps so you can get some higher accuracy too. You also need pulleys for them since you can't remove the stock ones from the old steppers.
Obviously you need to double the steps/mm in the firmware for these because the stock steppers have 1.8 deg steps.
For X it's a drop in replacement, Y will need a longer mounting bracket to clear the bed carriage.
Z can be skipped because it's not an axis that suffers large speed changes, the stock motor does just fine. You can upgrade Z too if you want the extra accuracy though.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 07:08:39 2021 No.2033510 >>2033500 >>2033501 It doesn't even look like it's retracting, at least not at the nozzle. The motor does look like it's going backwards a tick though. Maybe your arm needs to be tighter or perhaps there is a crack somewhere on the extruder.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 07:14:37 2021 No.2033511 >>2033510 crack on the extruder? I pinched the PLA with my figners and it's stronger than my fingers and I checked the arm for sag and tightened everything. I have a tirangle labs BMG on the way but I really don't know what to think here.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 07:16:12 2021 No.2033512

>>2033502
That's great, thanks for the info. I'm going to order a few. I'll probably end up upgrading the Z one too because I find it annoying when adjusting the offset that sometimes I won't feel any change in resistance on the paper for a few like no change from 0.025 to 0.075 but if I go backwards from 0.1 to 0.05 I can feel the change. Maybe a more accurate stepper motor would help with that. Or maybe I am just being too particular about it. Do those stepper motors sound different or are they about the same?

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 07:19:20 2021 No.2033514
File: 829 KB, 4656x2620, e2pnkst9oce41.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2033511
It seems like the extruder arm cracking right here is pretty common. But if you have a better one coming soon, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I hope they send you the right bracket with your BMG, I got one meant for a different machine so I couldn't mount it in the back. I'm not sure why anyone would anyways, it's kind of a pain to get back there.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 07:21:08 2021 No.2033515 >>2033512 They're quite a bit noisier when going fast, but I think it's an acceptable tradeoff.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 07:47:38 2021 No.2033526 File: 1.50 MB, 1080x2400, Screenshot_2021-02-17-13-47-19-596_com.miui.gallery.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2033514 Looks good boss. I've lowered extrusion rate since my head is ever so slightly touching my print. Maybe z offset?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 07:48:15 2021 No.2033528 >>2032552 As someone who is currently designing a cantilever.... what wrong with them. I had an idea for a weird design I wanted to try out. Its just a stability thing right? Was going to try overcoming with an mgn15h or larger for the y axis.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 07:51:35 2021 No.2033531 fuck autodesk

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 07:52:25 2021 No.2033533

>>2033395

It's not like anything left on it is stock at this point anyway, so it doesnt really matter. The only thing left of the original printer is the frame, and I only need to make relatively small parts from high temp materials, so it's a good match for what I need.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 07:53:50 2021 No.2033534 >>2033406 Not really sure what lack of foresight is present in "ordered in stock parts, waited several weeks for parts that are widely available elsewhere, vendor won't respond".

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 07:54:45 2021 No.2033535 >>2033528 force multiplication of the lever

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 07:57:08 2021 No.2033537
File: 39 KB, 425x472, Capture.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2033526
Hmm.. Well you can abystep Z if you have flashed Marlin on your machine, that would be the easiest way to adjust the Z offset on the fly. Not sure about the retraction problem though. Have you tried TeachingTech's retraction tuning? It's really good. https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction
There is a link on the bottom of the page to a more extesnvie test too.
>pic related

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 08:09:49 2021 No.2033545

>>2033537
>Not sure about the retraction problem though
I've tuned retraction using another video but I'll definetly give it a try, I've babystepped Z on klipper for my next print, I've also exagerated retraction distance. Let's see if that makes a difference.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 08:43:40 2021 No.2033577 >>2033537 >https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction printing the big one now

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 09:03:17 2021 No.2033597 >>2033500 >>2033526 >speed drive Why do you people do this? Do you hate build area?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 09:16:09 2021 No.2033616 >>2033597 I guess you're too retarded to find a mount that doesn't sacrifice build area. I was able to push my ender to 260mm z (10 more than stock) and I run direct drive. Pretty sure you're just retarded.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 09:36:08 2021 No.2033638

>>2033616
As a matter of fact I'm not, I have searched for and used a mount that doesn't sacrifice build area. This is the reason for which I know about the speed drive, as it was among the first direct drive mounts I saw but I was turned away by the fact that I'd lose X area because I'd have to mount the stepper inside the printer's frame. That's why I asked those 2 fools why they're using the speed drive in the first place.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 10:30:11 2021 No.2033670

I just discovered that you can order spare parts from IKEA, for no cost including shipping, and without needing to verify that you did buy anything.
So, I want to build a printer out of IKEA bits as far as is possible. So far I've found a pair of drawer runners that have zero wobble. I tried bending them at the store and it actually took a fair bit of force to do that. So, I'll be using those as linear rails.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 10:43:36 2021 No.2033676 >>2033670 On one had, lmfao I mean don't let me dissuade you from trying. But literally lmfao. Real linear rails are expensive for a reason.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 10:49:19 2021 No.2033680 >>2033676 desu with how shitty the printers people on this thread are buying, I can't imagine that ikea rails could be any worse than an ender

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 10:50:38 2021 No.2033682 >>2033680 fucker, you had better document this for the thread pic. this sounds lulzworthy.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:11:23 2021 No.2033693 >>2033670 >drawer sliders as linear rails y tho

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:18:20 2021 No.2033700 File: 176 KB, 412x477, Wolfstrap.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2033670 Got you covered: https://reprap.org/wiki/WolfStrap

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:19:16 2021 No.2033702 >>2032881 >And fuck deltas. salty

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:20:07 2021 No.2033703 File: 21 KB, 474x474, wood slide.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2033700 No. We must go deeper. We must go wood rails deep.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:30:35 2021 No.2033707 File: 269 KB, 866x1392, look in pants receive bacon.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2033342 >tfw bed only goes to 55º and can barely maintain 50º WITH a space heater pointed at it

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:33:56 2021 No.2033710 File: 91 KB, 1280x720, anon is having a stroke no the other kind.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2033422 so does that mean it was $16.96?!!

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:38:02 2021 No.2033716

>>2033446
>>2033457
remove retaining c clip if it's there
push down collar
gently pull tube back
pull harder
wonder why it's not working
cram collar down
yank tube
pops out like nothing

>>2033457
you can be careful with an xacto and do fine, you need to saw gently as you press and not let the tube deform. practice on old tube if possible. you can also use like a pair of garden sheers meant for rose bushes that are super flat. it's not difficult if you're not a spaz.

although on second thought anon should print a motherfucking jig to with with a razor blade, this is 3dpg after all.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:43:32 2021 No.2033725 >>2033707 >tfw had to do dual PSU one day I'll buy that 500W meanwell or something

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:44:41 2021 No.2033728 >>2033725 Just switch to mains powered bed.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:46:28 2021 No.2033730

>>2033500
the model is clearly deforming. you may print fine at 50º overhang but the further you go the more cantilevered it is. most of my spaghetti failures have been this exact problem - cantilever the slice too far before it bridges support, model end flexes out of the way, spaghetti ensues.

I'm not saying you dont' have other problems but maybe you went so far around the bend that now you're getting oozing because you are moving the print head away and your actual problem is the model.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:48:12 2021 No.2033734 >>2033700 imagine the sound

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:49:13 2021 No.2033735 >>2033725 >>2033728 someday anons, someday

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:52:39 2021 No.2033739 >>2033638 If you use a pancake stepper motor it doesn't hit the top bar because it's smaller. Just make sure to route your cables from the side and not on the back.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 11:59:26 2021 No.2033742
File: 171 KB, 1200x1200, 7143r1PK70L._SL1200_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>RTELLIGENT Stepper Motor Driver Nema 23, Nema 24 Hybrid 1.4A~5.6A 24~50VDC CNC Motor Controller Control with 1/128 Micro-Step Resolutions
Do people use things like this to control the stepper motors on their 3D printers? Does it have any advantages over using the printer's motherboard if they do? What search terms would I use to research this? Because this piece of hardware is cheaper than a new motherboard and upgraded stepper drivers, so it makes me curious.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 12:00:30 2021 No.2033743 File: 174 KB, 1200x1200, 71Dg0Q4eFaL._SL1200_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2033742 Valtage settings lol

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 12:03:50 2021 No.2033745 >>2033742 a five pack of a4988 is 4$ and with an external driver you still need a motherboard to generate the pulses this is overkill for printer application also current setting doesnt go down low enough,

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 12:04:15 2021 No.2033746 >>2033577 Post results, I haven't see anyone else try that thing yet

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 12:08:06 2021 No.2033748
File: 385 KB, 1532x2048, _EvJmryP.jpg large.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2033537
>>2033746
Looks like 6.5mm kinda works but that's not a very normal restraction distance for a direct drive set-up. I wonder what results this retraction will give me and I'm worried if it turns out of that its just a bandaid for more underlying issues

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 12:16:57 2021 No.2033752

>>2033745
Yeah but aren't the a4988s the entry level stepper drivers? I was talking sbout TMC2209 or 5160. Or better if there is such a thing. I haven't seen a good comparison of the stepper drivers available. I guess it depends on what is in the external controller. And yeah I was wondering how to connect it to the motherboard, too. A guide is out there somewhere maybe or maybe not if it's a stupid idea.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 12:17:01 2021 No.2033753 >>2033748 My filament is a week or two old but I have my printer in the garage, some nights the spool has just slept on top of the printer, could my spool be wet?

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 12:24:40 2021 No.2033759

>>2033752
they are the most proven workhorse out there and beside the noise have literally no downside.

In terms of resolution and performance you gain more by swapping out stock step motors to 0.9° low inductance ones, than upgrading the drivers

problem with the driver you posted is simple. lowest current setting is 1.4A peak
xyz motors are commonly 1A peak so you would fry them.
They get connected exatly the same as a stepstick driver

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 13:32:49 2021 No.2033813 >>2033500 maybe fucked up thermistor

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 13:37:11 2021 No.2033821

>>2033748
>>2033753
If it's PLA, its probably OK. Something else you should dry it.
If the 6.5mm retraction works, use it. If it doesn't, I wouldn't worry about it since you have a other extruder on the way. How long until it arrives? Is your current extruder stepper motor the stock on? The gear on mine was press fit plus glued on there, I ended up just buying a different motor with no gear on the shaft so I could put the gear from the BMG kit on there. You can use the Creality stock stepper but you will have to remove the gear, which means cutting it off with a a Dremel if it doesn't have a set screw on it.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 13:40:24 2021 No.2033823

>>2033759
Ah, OK that makes sense about the amperage. I'm intrested in advanced features of stepper drivers like sensor less homing and having the ability to switch between StealthChop or SpreadCycle depending on the speed, so I don't think the A4988s will work for me.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 13:43:47 2021 No.2033827 >>2032942 I always had problems with accurate measuring in Sketchup. Onshape on the other hand, works beautifully.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 13:44:45 2021 No.2033829 >>2033488 The motors on the Creality machines aren't chinkshit trust me there's way worse. I'd actually put them in the top 10, yes there's faster and quieter but trust me when I say, we have it good. There's way worse out there...

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 13:45:59 2021 No.2033831 >>2033496 Go into control>temperatures and set the temps on the printer itself.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 13:47:00 2021 No.2033832 >>2033501 Time to upgrade to direct drive

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 13:48:01 2021 No.2033835
File: 1.67 MB, 1080x2400, Screenshot_2021-02-17-19-45-07-457_com.miui.gallery.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2033813
The printer is a month old but it might be, on the other hand I don't really trust this laser thermometer
>>2033821
6.5 didn't work, a few days for the extruder but the pancake motor I want to pair it with will still take a month... Luckily my original stepper came with a screw on gear.
Anyway my filament is oozing by just sitting there, is that normal? Just like warm it up and it poops out a skinny line of pla.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 13:48:07 2021 No.2033836 >>2033700 Good fucking Lord... How much did this end up costing you?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 13:49:59 2021 No.2033838 >>2033832 You saw my video?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 13:52:54 2021 No.2033844 Should I buy 0.2 or 0.15 nozzle for printing small objects?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 13:58:55 2021 No.2033851 >>2033835 laser thermometers probably don't work against metal surfaces, stick some black electrical tape to it and read off that

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 14:08:29 2021 No.2033860

>>2033823
>>2033759
fyi just because any sort of power supply can control its amperage output doens't mean that the electronics its driving will pull that much. If the steppers only pull 1A at their rated voltage, they will never draw more amps than what may be available to them.

Still I wouldn't use it, its clearly overkill and I find it hard to trust any sort of power regulation device that has voltage misspelled on it.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 14:08:35 2021 No.2033861 >>2033829 they are rated at like 9mH below 3 is considered a good motor

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 14:10:10 2021 No.2033864

>>2033860
>If the steppers only pull 1A at their rated voltage, they will never draw more amps than what may be available to them.
fuck I said this stupid

If the steppers only pull 1A at their rated voltage, they will always pull 1A regardless of the output capacity of your power supply

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 14:10:42 2021 No.2033865

>>2032745
dhgate is real, but the vendors are all super-sketch. Some types of repro-carts and multi-carts for retro-consoles get taken down too fast on other sites, but linger for ages on DHGate. That's the only reason I've gotten stuff from there. For what it's worth, both times I ordered form there, the vendor delivered. And those carts still work today. But it's still the sketchiest of the china-shops.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 14:16:46 2021 No.2033871 >>2033860 the drive ic will adjust the voltage until the current target is hit. thats how a stepdrive works. If these values were fix you'd loose all torque as soon as back emf comes to the 1v region

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 14:29:36 2021 No.2033885 >>2033710 no, I got 3 and 4 respectively. my keyboard is wearing out. sorry i gave you a stroke.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 14:32:23 2021 No.2033886

>>2033865
>But it's still the sketchiest of the china-shops.
damn right it is, they told essee knives to suck their cocks when they issued cease and desist orders on bootleg stuff.

you used to be able to buy full auto real guns on there as "keychain toys".

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 14:36:14 2021 No.2033890 >>2033886 >you used to be able to buy full auto real guns on there as "keychain toys". holy shit

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 14:36:58 2021 No.2033891 >>2033886 and they sell fake gold bullion on there and fake cash. dhgate / product / 1oz-switzerland- argor- heraeus-gold - bar - 24k / 477454756. html spam my ass

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 15:14:35 2021 No.2033921

>>2033886
>you used to be able to buy full auto real guns on there as "keychain toys".
Well, not the guns themselves, but rather the full auto sears for Glocks and such to convert them. Everybody on /k/ was convinced it was a honeypot. They were sold on Wish too.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 15:49:11 2021 No.2033937

>>2033921
no, you could. it got shut down fast as fuck back in 2016. you could get sterile AK's and Makarovs. no markings at all. oddly enough, they traced some of them, and its how they busted a drug smuggling op.

now you can get xannybar punches and pill punches to scam junkies with off of there. and fake cash and fake bullion.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 16:03:01 2021 No.2033950 >>2033937 >pill punches to scam junkies I had no idea this was a thing. I want to get one just to make sugar cubes with now. Freak the fuck out of family when they come over and I drop a few into my tea.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 16:13:28 2021 No.2033965

I was offered a roll of 3M 3.0mm filament. I want to take it and use it, but my printer is a 1.75mm printer.
Why does it seem like most people don't use 3mm? Is it more or less difficult to use compared to using 1.75mm? Is it correct to assume that anything the filament would need to pass would need to be the 3mm version (extruder, bowden tube, hotend)? What size nozzles do people typically use with the big filament? Is here a 1.75mm nozzle so you can make your own smaller filament? What about layer heights? Is 3mm filament worth checking out or is it just a meme?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 16:15:23 2021 No.2033967 >>2033965 1.75mm is most common on hobbyist FDM printers today, 2.85 or as it is often listed 3mm filament is used on professional or industrial machines.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 16:15:50 2021 No.2033968

>>2033835
Yeah it's normal for some to ooze out. You should make it a habit to only preheat the nozzle right before you start to print. You can adjust your ending GCode in your slicer to include a big retraction so there isn't anything in the hotend that could ooze out but it might not work in your case for whatever reason. The oozing is really annoying though.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 16:19:32 2021 No.2033969

>>2033968
It oozes so much and so quick it messes up my prints, it oozes in between travels independantly of what I set my retractions to.

>>2033851
I'm not having much luck getting a good reading, at least when I power on my printer my thermistor and my bed give me a good ambient temp reading, do bad thermostors give bad readings only ay high temps?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 16:22:52 2021 No.2033972 3D printer belts are usually clamped together single lengths. Is there some way to "fuse" together the ends solidly? I want to use some leftovers to make tracks for a robot tank.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 16:25:26 2021 No.2033975 >>2033886 >you used to be able to buy full auto real guns on there >buying guns from China You would entirely deserve it when the Chinesium alloy melts and the cartridge lodges in your eye.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 16:27:54 2021 No.2033979 >>2033950 I don't think it would work very well. Sugar cubes dissolve easily because their porous nature gives them a lot of surface area. Compress sugar into a tablet and it would take quite a while to dissolve.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 16:57:50 2021 No.2033994
File: 1.63 MB, 981x709, print.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Finally found out why my prints were failing all the time, it was a simple temp problem.
Now I'm printing a lower that will most likely be too small (ABS) but I'm doing it more as a proof that I can indeed print without fucking up.
Rejoice with me!

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 17:06:21 2021 No.2033999 >>2033994 oy mate you either have a shot bearing on the bed or the belt is overtightened

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 17:12:01 2021 No.2034003

>>2033861
9mh is good, 3mh is near perfection, stop just stop you're retarded.
>>2033994
Yeah I found out the same, increasing temps works in 99% of print issues. Manufacturers and cura and aspies who claim to know it all say these low temps are all you need, aren't living in reality.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 17:14:17 2021 No.2034005

>>2033860
>>2033864
Thst makes sense.
I'm mainly looking for a way to upgrade my stepper drivers withiut replacing the main board on my Ender 3 (Creality 4.2.2). Any upgrade I do get will eventually go in to a bigger and better printer. Having the stepper motors controlled by something other than the motherboard seemed like a neat way to get what I wanted. Honestly, I probably should just get a new board but I still like the idea of an external stepper control system.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 17:18:01 2021 No.2034008 >>2034005 I was in the same boat as you, just upgrade to a newer Creality or go with a Prusa. By the time you add good stepper motors, an upgraded motherboard, bl touch, etc it would be cheaper and easier to just get the ender 6 or an i3.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 17:29:04 2021 No.2034014 >>2033999 Why exactly? >>2034003 I was printing at the low end of the recommended spectrum for ABS, 80°C bed and 220°C extruder. Ramped it up to 100/240 and now it works flawlessly.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 17:29:21 2021 No.2034015

>>2034003
>9mh is good, 3mh is near perfection, stop just stop you're retarded.
Crealty defense force

The relationship between motor power output, power supply voltage (V) and motor inductance (L) is:
Power = Volts / Square Root of L
At the same voltage, a 3mH moter will have 3x the power as a 9mH one

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 17:40:45 2021 No.2034023 >>2034014 >Why exactly? Visible artifacts in the part

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 17:45:13 2021 No.2034027

>>2034008
Yeah but where's the fun in that? I do feel like eventually all my stock parts will be upgraded and at that point it will be more custom than Creality. When that time comes, I want to upgrade the frame. Then, when I do that, I'll rebuild the Ender 3 back to stock and start the whole process over again... Probably a stupid and expensive idea but it sounds fun to me.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 17:45:38 2021 No.2034028 >>2034023 Now that you mention it, the belt is a bit on the stiff side. I'll look into it once the print is finished.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 17:54:37 2021 No.2034033

So I got a bottle of translucent resin dirt cheap. I'm finding that whenever I print something that has a flat underside or overhang, normal to the build plate, the flat surface comes out kind of lumpy and melted-looking. At first I figured maybe the resin was a different density or something, that it was deforming even using the same kind of supports that usually work for me. But then it occurred to me, maybe during the print resin is getting caught on that surface and sitting there, and then every exposure just a little bit of UV is filtering through the clear resin to cure that excess. Does that sound right? I would have thought that the resin would attenuate the UV so much that it wouldn't make a difference but maybe not.

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 19:32:18 2021 No.2034099

>>2034033
For that kind of surface I think it's more likely that the first sliver of flat surface is getting pulled out of shape by suction from the FEP film because it doesn't have enough support. Light bleed-through is a thing though, seems to be especially bad with siraya resins.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 20:12:56 2021 No.2034138 File: 1.46 MB, 2880x2160, 20210217_170311.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] 120 hour print I want to believe

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 20:16:14 2021 No.2034144 >>2034138 that's so nice anon you're printing your mom a dildo

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 20:18:08 2021 No.2034145 >>2034138 Ender 3 pro? Maybe, put a cardboard box around it.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 20:18:25 2021 No.2034146 >>2034144 I'm printing myself a dildo actually This is part one of two Equal weight parts

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 20:21:00 2021 No.2034149 >>2034145 Yeah. It sits unattended for 15 hours, I don't want to risk a fire Lmao

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 20:35:58 2021 No.2034154 >>2034149 Cardboard ignites at 425c, you're nowhere near that point, enclose it or the print will fall.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 20:59:45 2021 No.2034163 >>2033975 I think they were ways for ccp spies to order gear. norinco makes damn fine weapons.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 21:58:34 2021 No.2034196 >>2034146 half a dildo and one ball at a time, of course they're equal weight

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 22:26:27 2021 No.2034208 >>2034138 is anon finally printing a 10" moon?

Anonymous Wed Feb 17 22:28:42 2021 No.2034209

when my government neetbux arrive i want to spend as little of it as is reasonable on a purpose-built 3d printer. what design archetype is cheapest to build, and how can i make it cheaper without sacrificing print quality? 300x200 bed, minimum 100mm Z. Is a 300x200 bed slinger acceptable? or is that too heavy? thinking about chinese linear rails instead of rods or v wheels, since they've gotten pretty cheap. anyone have experience with robotdigg's rails?

>>	Humidanon Wed Feb 17 22:48:19 2021 No.2034218 >>2033700 >wolfstrap I was hoping it was some kind of animal themed strap on.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 22:55:58 2021 No.2034223 >>2034015 >At the same voltage, a 3mH moter will have 3x the power as a 9mH one Assuming you're not digging into resistive losses from your driving FETs, or the stepper windings themselves. Shouldn't do though.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 17 23:25:21 2021 No.2034235 I accidentally a kinect for xbox 360. Surprise. Goodwill anon mentioned getting one: can you actually scan with it? Is it good enough to be worth bothering?

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 00:07:44 2021 No.2034257
File: 13 KB, 803x98, g26 z hop.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I figured out how to increase the Z hop in G26 if anyone is interested.
>open your marlin build in platformio
>navigate to ~\Marlin\src\gcode\bedlevel
>open G26.cpp
>go to approx line 251
>change 0.5f to whatever height you want
>pic related
Mine is the bugfix version, it says something different in the live version but if you are smart enough to edit the file, you are smart enough to use the info I have gave to find and edit the right number. I just tried it and it actually worked. Well, the Z hop did, not my mesh lol.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 00:42:13 2021 No.2034276 >>2034154 Why will it fail. I won't have access to it for another 10 hours

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 00:50:27 2021 No.2034280 >>2034276 as the print gets taller the layers will be too far from the bed to stay warm, and will cool and contract, causing the part to pull away from the build plate.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 00:53:35 2021 No.2034282 File: 2.51 MB, 4000x3000, 20210218_004801.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] People who bitch about Creality not having auto bed leveling need to just buy the bltouch. Took me all of 5 minutes to install and get working.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 00:55:15 2021 No.2034283
File: 3.31 MB, 4000x3000, 20210218_004842.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2034282
As soon as you install it, the printer knows it's there and activates it in the menu. Just a few screws and some wires, plug them in, run the program and boom done.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 00:56:13 2021 No.2034284 >>2034280 yeah, that's called warp and I know it exists. I'm having my doubts it will lift significantly, but if it does warp then oh well, shouldn't hurt the function

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 00:56:48 2021 No.2034285
File: 3.38 MB, 4000x3000, 20210218_004829.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2034283
I sincerely do not understand how people have such a hard time with this very simple straight forward process... It boggles the mind. Like how fucking stupid can you be?

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 00:58:23 2021 No.2034287 >>2034284 Just install some cardboard and tape if you're cheap or find some plexi and cut it to fit, print the holders and hinges, bam heated ender 5 pro hot box.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 00:58:52 2021 No.2034288

>>2034285
>>2034283
It wasn't always like this. When the Ender 3 came out, you had to flash a bootloader onto the melzi board just to be able to flash marlin onto it with changes made manually to accomodate the bltouch, plus either solder or use a plug-in passthrough to attach it to the Z endstop pins.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 00:59:27 2021 No.2034289 >>2034282 Seems pointless, also it works by moving the zed axis up and down per corner? That sounds like it will cause patterns Why not just level the bed and then don't do stupid shit that makes rhe bed unleveled

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:00:11 2021 No.2034290

>>2034285
Here I'll even be nice and post the easiest to follow tutorial in the world.
https://youtu.be/Jmu5Fh_nPtw
If you can't follow something this dead simple then you need to just get out of 3D printing entirely because no matter what printer you get, you need to learn how to use it properly.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:02:16 2021 No.2034292

>>2034288
Interesting how after 3 years, the ender 4, 5, 5 pro, 5 plus, and 6 came out with fixes to this very problem. The ender 3v2 and 3 pro are out. Update the os if need be, my 5 pro didn't need it, so they're shipping them with the updated Creality software now.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:03:44 2021 No.2034294 >>2034292 It's almost as if the company isn't stagnating and listening to user input and applying the fixes we ask for. Marlin sucks IMHO.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:03:44 2021 No.2034295

>>2034289
You can set it to probe a fine grid and build a mesh out of the measurements. I had a pretty warped bed on my CR10 and this almost immediately fixed my first-layer adhesion issues that just leveling couldn't solve. BLtouch is the tits m8.

That said, the best solution is get a not-shit bed, but a BLtouch comes in handy for the rest.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:04:44 2021 No.2034296

>>2034285
>>2034283
>>2034282
A BLtouch isn't auto leveling, it just maps out the geometry of the bed and then gives the printer information to alter the z-height to compensate for any unevenness. You still need to manually level it yourself to get good results, a BLtouch just lets you be a bit off, or as intended compensate for a non-flat bed. True auto-leveling is where the bed actually levels itself, no manual input required.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:04:50 2021 No.2034297 >>2034289 We don't spell it zed you deluded ameritard. It's just z but it's pronounced zed... I fucking hate you with every fiber of my being.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:06:37 2021 No.2034300 >>2034297 Shut up cunt I'm just taking the piss

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:06:51 2021 No.2034301 File: 53 KB, 729x650, trollcooking.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2034297 m8 there's no D in Z

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:07:45 2021 No.2034303 >>2034296 That's like another 100 dollars in stepper motors and an entirely different motherboard. At that point I'd just buy an ultimaker that has full auto bed leveling and everything else because the jump in cost is astronomical.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:08:23 2021 No.2034304
File: 217 KB, 1224x977, trinamic smart stepper.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

What do you guys think of Trinamic's "smart" stepper motors?
>https://www.trinamic.com/products/pandrive-smart-motors/
There is 5 different types. Some of them are quite expensive, over $300 per motor so you can tell they aren't really geared towards 3D printer hobbyists but maybe professionals or CNC machines.
These ones aren't too expensive, ~$130 per motor for a smart NEMA 17. I don't even know if these ones would be good for a 3D printer, I don't know enough about the specs of these steppers to say one way or the other. But I think it's a pretty cool idea, just another way to take the drivers away from the board.
>pic related

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:10:32 2021 No.2034305 >>2034304 it's just a stepper with an encoder board slapped on the back of it to close the loop. an s42b is a lot cheaper.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:10:56 2021 No.2034306

>>2034296
The bltouch has 0.1-1% wiggle room so it's really not that hard. You don't have to sit with a piece of paper, just set your offsets manually if it becomes a problem. I watched a video where a guy had a 4% incline and bltouch printed just fine.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:12:56 2021 No.2034310 >>2034304 260 dollars for my machine? I might get them, what boards are they compatible with? Will they work with stock Creality? If so I might order them in a couple days.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:15:00 2021 No.2034311 >>2034310 I would only need them for the x and y gantries because of the giant lead screw on the z bed. I might order them and put them on my ender 5 plus.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:16:25 2021 No.2034312 >>2034305 Yeah but the s42b has compatibility issues.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:16:33 2021 No.2034313

>>2034306
I'm not saying it is hard, or that it doesn't work well for the intended use, It just isn't auto leveling. If you slap a BLtouch onto a brand new out of the box printer you've just set up without doing any manual leveling, it will probably fail.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:24:41 2021 No.2034314

>>2034313
Whenever someone bitches about playing with what's essentially a hobby and not wanting to learn all aspects, all I can think is, maybe there's a better hobby suited for you like coloring and connect the dots... Maybe Legos are more your speed... Here do you need a bike helmet? No matter what printer, even the $10,000 one we have at work needs to sometimes be leveled by hand, even though it has all that fancy bed leveling jazz. It makes it more of a massive pain in the ass when you have to take it to bits to do basic maintenance. The simplicity of this actually makes it better for a long run enjoyment. It's so rewarding once you pull your head out of your ass and stop snorting your own jenkum. It's not an instant gratification hobby my dude. It takes time and effort and learning. Maybe in 40 years we'll have multi color true planar fdm 3d printers, not the 2.5D ones at entry level prices but by then I'll be in a nursing home high on pain killers so I won't even care.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:29:46 2021 No.2034315 >>2034304 Is there a servo version? If you're going through the effort to put an encoder on the back you might as well have the guts be a BLDC instead of a stepper.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 01:40:26 2021 No.2034318 >>2034313 Honestly tramming needs to be done on every printer on earth. It's not magic anon, he's 100% correct. You're a fucking moron of you think otherwise.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 02:05:14 2021 No.2034323

>>2034315
Yeah they do have some of those. It's easiest to just look at the page and search the model number because their distributor websites suck ass. They have 6 with no encoder and two with encoder.
This is the bigger of the two with encoder, $275 for one
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/trinamic-motion-control-gmbh/QBL4208-100-04-025-1024-AT/9950760

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 02:57:03 2021 No.2034335 >>2034315 No benefit in that Steppers are great for printing due to the flat torque curve, having a dynamic servo axis would introduce a lot of bloat and shit like overshoot for worse drive characteristics in the speed region we operate at

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 03:08:29 2021 No.2034336

>>2034335
>overshoot
Can and should be countered by proper tuning of the drive board. If you were making servos specifically for 3D printing, you could include the drivers pre-tuned to reasonable levels on the back of them.
>the speed region we operate at
I guess that makes sense, though I suspect that something like a 50p/48t BLDC would be comparable to a stepper with regards to speed.

I was thinking that servos should be cheaper than steppers due to the simpler construction, but I guess the feedback and tuning brainboxery makes up for that.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 03:16:14 2021 No.2034338

>>2034336
Electronics are cheap
A bldc servo would require gear or belt reduction for sane operation.
Loop tuning is certainly no trivial task and depends on the axis mass. Id imagine a bedslinger printing something a couple hundret gramms big will be an error generator.
Steppers are simpler in construction

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 04:01:28 2021 No.2034349 What other machines should a 3d printer be kept away from and/or near in a small shop?

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 04:16:21 2021 No.2034353 >>2034282 thats cool now post your validation pattern print hint: you wont

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 04:23:19 2021 No.2034354 >>2034338 >A bldc servo would require gear or belt reduction for sane operation Not if it has the same number of teeth as a stepper. Plus or minus a factor of 2 or 3 or 2/3 or whatever, to swap from 2-phase to 3-phase.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 04:47:24 2021 No.2034363 >>2034354 A bldc is made to run a couple thousand rpms A typical printmove is in the range of 10 to 100rpm depending on the ramp position, what do you think the torque is at that speed?

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 05:43:21 2021 No.2034378 File: 226 KB, 1532x2048, mpE2ZtH-.jpg large.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2033835 >>2033748 Bowser with very large z-hop turned out half decent... Still going mad over the zits due to oozing

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 05:55:50 2021 No.2034382
File: 2.24 MB, 4032x2694, _20210218_115117.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>same stl file
>same speeds, vase mode
>printed in 0.66x0.3mm with a 0.6mm nozzle
>always hear a popping-sound followed by hotend not extruding for a split second
I think my cura has autism, left box is sliced in prusa2.3.
which setting could cause this?

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 06:08:37 2021 No.2034384

>>2034382
>hear a popping-sound followed by hotend not extruding for a split second
It's called water in your filament. The water vaporizes and pushes some of the molten plastic back and away from the tip of the nozzle. The extruder then has to push that plastic back into the nozzle before it can print again, hence the gaps.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 06:29:36 2021 No.2034390

>>2034384
I would agree that it indicates moist filament but it would be a really big coincidence that its only moist at one location on the entire print and only when I use the cura-gcode while being printed out of a dry, silica filled box. Both were printed back-to-back

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 07:00:02 2021 No.2034403 >>2034349 High voltage machines, machines with high current draw.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 07:13:03 2021 No.2034408 >>2034384 I live on the coast and print moist filament basically all the time, those gaps are way, way too big to be caused by it.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 07:17:09 2021 No.2034409

>>2034390
The only setting I know of that could cause this could be coasting, but that doesn't explain the popping sound which is characteristic of trapped gas. Cura has no way of introducing gas bubbles in your hotend.
I have encountered filament that is unevenly wet. I have a roll of TPU where only about 60 degrees of the roll is wet, the rest is fine. It prints fine until it reaches that section on the roll, then it starts bubbling like a bitch and I have to bump up the flow by 50-60% to get it to continue printing reasonably well. It might be your case, though I kind of doubt it would happen on such a small scale.

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 07:46:43 2021 No.2034417

>>2034382
Oh, I gotchu dude. I was having a similar problem, your retraction is set too high, so compare what you've got in Cura and Prusa slicer. I think the default in Cura is 5mm, which can be a bit high, especially if you've switched to an all metal hotend.

If you're wondering what causes it, it's pulling the filament too far into the cold zone, then it smashes the cold filament back into the nozzle, doesn't extrude while it's remelting, then it starts extruding again. There's a more specific term but I forget it.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 08:02:09 2021 No.2034420 >>2034338 The hevORT guy uses servos just fine and that prick prints at 800mm/s I think you don't really know what you're talking about anon

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 08:02:27 2021 No.2034421 File: 2.32 MB, 4032x2641, _20210218_135759.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2034417 Ty anon, I'll check that I was thinking it could be retractions but that it maybe sucks in air that gets trapped and pops. its indeed a amhe

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 08:16:37 2021 No.2034428 >>2034420 >talking about bedslingers >core xy Lets see him move a 1kg glass bed at 20mm/s, next g command 250mm/s travel move

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 08:37:15 2021 No.2034439 can I get a resin that has similar mechanical properties to PETG?

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 09:07:41 2021 No.2034456 File: 2.39 MB, 286x258, 1597137341933.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2034439 >can I get a resin that is shit in all mechanical properties How about no?

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 09:24:53 2021 No.2034467

>>2034295
my cr10 bed was curved like a weirdo salad bowl serving trays. I brought it to a machinist, who cut me another one out of 7071 aluminium sheet. he said the stepper motor would snap in 100 hours if I used a 1/4 steel plate like i originally wanted. it was $35 and he got a reason to use his plasma table.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 10:06:23 2021 No.2034498 >>2034421 anon there is no retraction move during vase mode print

Anonymous Thu Feb 18 10:10:47 2021 No.2034502

Does anybody know if Devil Design Black PLA is opaque?
I will be making an eight segment display, and I want no light from one segment to escape to a neighboring one through a semi-transparent segment-wall.
This spergthread illustrates the point pretty well:
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/3dp-photo/forums/general/topic:7227

The walls would be 2mm thick, preferably, because that's how thick I usually print them on all my boxes.
I will be using 12V incandecent light bulbs undervolted at 5V so they really won't be bright, but they still went through walls when testing with cheap white PLA.

Some anons told me that there's little difference between PLAs and I should just buy the cheapest (but not bottom-of-the-barrel) but the pigment density is perhaps the one place where relatively expensive PLA can out-edge cheap PLA.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 10:17:37 2021 No.2034508 New Thread >>2034507

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 18 13:24:09 2021 No.2034684 >>2034439 You can mix different resins together to some extent so you could probably get close enough to the material properties you want with a bit of experimentation

Anonymous Fri Feb 19 06:14:18 2021 No.2035280

>>2034314
>No matter what printer, even the $10,000 one we have at work needs to sometimes be leveled by hand
Strange that, my Prusa can't be leveled by hand. In fact I recall many enclosed printers that don't have the option either. I never had to touch the bed after installing it, and only calibrated XYZ twice for a total printing time of 15 days. First time after I assembled the printer, the second time after removing the power supply to build it into an enclosure. I tightened some screws and wanted to be sure, but the readout was the same.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 19 06:37:51 2021 No.2035291 >>2034382 Whenever this happened to me it was because the extruder motor in my enclosure heated up to the point where the heat crept through the shaft, to the gear, which in turn softened the PLA such that the gears were eating it instead of extruding.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 20 15:50:39 2021 No.2036492 >>2033500 travel speeds slower than my grandma, speed that shit up also look into Marlin's Linear Advance

Anonymous Sat Feb 20 15:58:23 2021 No.2036493
File: 330 KB, 1024x808, 51_1149_05_5c_rdax_1024x808.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2034282
it sucks balls

I bought one and I couldn't get it to repeat better than 0.1mm just probing on the same spot, useless

ended up getting a used industrial, properly specced, inductive sensor for like €10 and it works flawlessly

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