/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.2029310]

Nice Beaver Edition
Old thread: >>2025283
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright.

[Anonymous No.2029328]

>>2029296
Well you mentioned standard inch units and all slicers that I'm aware of default to metric. Are you sure you have the scale set correctly in the slicer? For example people running inch in fusion and exporting STLs(locally, not using the shit autodesk cloud export) will have to scale their models up by 2,540% to get the right scale.

[Anonymous No.2029329]

my ender did a poopoo

[Anonymous No.2029330]

>>2029143
yet it just works™

[Anonymous No.2029332]

>>2029299
Test cube just finished. It's spot on, very straight and square, dimensionally good, resolution looks incredible for out of the box on petg at least based on what people told me to expect.

Maybe my stl is bung but I don't know fucking how

[Anonymous No.2029342]

I think this is a pretty cool way of mounting everything.
thing:2868695

[Anonymous No.2029346]

>>2029342

[Anonymous No.2029350]

>>2029346

[Anonymous No.2029375]

>>2029332
never mind I figured it out

[Anonymous No.2029378]

Pleased with my enclosure. Don't trust the thingiverse measurements on these ikea lack builds, they're all messed up.

[Anonymous No.2029384]

>>2029375
Share with the class.

[Anonymous No.2029391]

>>2029384
I made the model too big, the printer was printing as expected

[Anonymous No.2029394]

>>2029391
I end up scaling by accident in Cura all the time. I would've guessed it was something like that.

[Anonymous No.2029400]

>>2029394
No I just straight up made it fucking 50mm too big
I don't even know how the fuck

[Anonymous No.2029402]

does anyone know any way I can dry my filament without an oven?
I'm thinking about just putting this bitch over a fire

[Anonymous No.2029405]

Does anyone know of good courses or videos for intro to 3d modeling? I would like to make cosmetic parts for my motorcycle like mirrors, fairings, or side covers.

[Anonymous No.2029420]

So my flatmate wants me to stop 3d printing in our common room because of microplastics in the air. It's just PLA. He wants me to build an enclosure that vents outside before I can use it again.
I know there is some tiny amount of VOCs and nanoparticles is created by extrusion of PLA, but how do I convince him that it's completely harmless?

[Anonymous No.2029421]

>>2029405
> I would like to make cosmetic parts for my motorcycle like mirrors, fairings, or side covers.

As long as you're not talking about sculpted statues type things then I would go with a CAD software, not a 3d modeling software. It'll be easier to make functional parts. As far as CAD, read the OP. Fusion 360 is alright, but there will be people hating on it because of their own personal reasons. Just avoid the cloud services and you'll be fine.

Also get a decent set of calipers. Harbor freight ones don't count.

[Anonymous No.2029422]

>>2029420
Your flatmate sounds like a fag. Mention to him that wearing a cheap mask will cause him to inhale 1000x more micro plastics than that printer could ever hope to produce.

[Anonymous No.2029434]

>>2029420
Put it in your room then or build a shitty enclosure

[Anonymous No.2029435]

>>2029405
buy a vr headset and model it in adobe medium

[Anonymous No.2029452]

>>2029402
How do you not have an oven..? You could try putting the filament in a storage tub or trash bag with some actual desiccant like DampRid. If you could some how control the te, p of the fire it might work. Say you had a cast iron Dutch oven with filament in it near the fire, you might be able to keep it below the melting point for the filament. It would be really hard though and would require careful and constant monitoring.

[Anonymous No.2029455]

>>2029402
borrow a friend's oven

[Anonymous No.2029456]

>>2029378
looks pretty good, how much does dust and outside elements effect prints anyway? And where did you source the plexiglass?

[Anonymous No.2029500]

>>2029456
people use enclosures to maintain a certain temperature uniformity and to prevent drafts.

[Anonymous No.2029511]

I think I will buy a 3d printer after all, is it worth getting the ender 3 v2 over the pro for an additional 70 leaf bucks? and what other essentials should i get?

[Anonymous No.2029513]

got a new fan... holy shit... creality stock fan was like a fucking jet engine compared to the new one
no wonder it failed in less than a month

[Anonymous No.2029514]

>>2029511
>two ...beds?
>what looks like picatinny rails everywhere
>strange red laser / speaker cone thing
anon, WHAT THE FUCK IS THAT?

[Anonymous No.2029517]

>>2029514
you need to culturally educate yourself

[Anonymous No.2029529]

>>2029514
A totally normal 3d printer.

[Anonymous No.2029539]

>>2029513
what fan did you get anon

[Anonymous No.2029544]

>>2029511

[Anonymous No.2029546]

>>2029539
I think it was orion brand? next thing I'll replace (once it breaks at least) is the part cooling fan because its loud as fuck

[Anonymous No.2029630]

>>2029546
I'll save you the trouble then. I tried like ten different 4010 blower fans on mine and none of them were noticeably quieter than stock. I printed a cooling duct that I could put a 4020 axial fan in and any fan that was quieter didn't bridge or overhang worth a shit. I'm putting a herome duct on it tomorrow with dual 5015 blowers hoping that two big blowers at <50% will be quieter than the stock 4010 screaming away at 100%. I'll let you know how it goes.

[Anonymous No.2029642]

>>2029310
Try using a title next time.

[Anonymous No.2029644]

Which firmware/motherboards are you ender niggas using?

[Anonymous No.2029656]

>>2029644
Creality 4.2.2 wit the latest Marlin bug fix version. I'll probably upgrade to a better board soon although not one of the ones usually recommended. I'm interested in trying Klipper for firmware but I'd have to get a Raspberry Pi for that and I don't really want one. I did read Klipper can be ran from Windows but it isn't exactly straightforward or easy to do.

[Anonymous No.2029660]

>>2029656
>Creality 4.2.2
So is all the jazz about noise reduction and precision true?

[Anonymous No.2029664]

>>2029630
Please do. I recently got a V2 and the fan noise is one of the few things bothering me.

[Anonymous No.2029675]

>>2029456
>>2029500
Yeah but since my workshop is dusty as hell Its great at keeping dust and debris out of my printers nooks and crannies and my prints too.
Also so roof is fuxked and I get drafts at nighttime.

[Anonymous No.2029681]

>>2029664
buy fans below 7000rpm with 7 or 9 blades
i run sunon vapor bearing, dead silent and good cfm but expensive.
12v fans are way cheaper and more abudant than 24v ones, with a 1$ stepdown module you can run them on you printer.

The biggest source of noise on the ender are the undersized fan grills blocking part of the rotor

[Anonymous No.2029695]

fuck autodesk

[Anonymous No.2029720]

based

[Anonymous No.2029736]

>>2029695
t. Dassault Systèmes

[Anonymous No.2029889]

Is it worth transferring to Průšaslicer from Cura? People said the quality is better but it feels like shilling and bullshit.

[Anonymous No.2029918]

>>2029310
Fuck you /3dpg/ for memeing me into buying an Ender instead of a Prusa.
It's evident /diy/ is full of poorfag tradies whose time is worthless.
3D printing is a hobby, not a job.
With the time I've lost fixing this piece of shit I could have bought several Prusas now.

[Anonymous No.2029936]

>>2029889
no
super slicer is the superiors slicer but the developer seems absent currently. Once SS2.3 is available you should switch over
seriously hope the coof hasnt got him

[Anonymous No.2029939]

>>2029889
>Is it worth transferring to Průšaslicer from Cura? People said the quality is better but it feels like shilling and bullshit.
bro it takes zero time it all to download, install, and slice a known good model. Unless you have 100% custom parameters for running trimmer line or something, it should be a breeze for you to try out a new slicer. And if you're so autistic you can't wait an hour to print something then youre really not cut out for 3d printing.

[Anonymous No.2029947]

Looking to print nylon on my Ender 3, I need an all metal hotend, but idk if which or what to get. Is the Micro Swiss that's shilled by the tubers worth the price?
Not really wanting to drop $60 on a machine that's worth $160, but I would to avoid the grief of chinkshit

[Anonymous No.2029975]

>>2029681
>expensive
>$10
Price gets really relative really quickly with Chinks hit, huh?

[Anonymous No.2029983]

>>2029918
Really? I put mine together, levelled the bed and it worked.

[Anonymous No.2029986]

>>2029918
git gud

[Anonymous No.2029989]

>>2029939
I enjoy how easily I can tweak Cura and I'm absolutely autistic about environments I learned to use and like.

Once I had to move from Paint Tool Sai to Adobe Illustrator and had a fucking stroke. Want to avoid it again if I can help it, but Průša slicer seems to do things differently and some of it seems too different for my liking. Also no profiles for my Chiron in Průša from which I could spring off of.
Don't want to invest too much time into something that might not work.

[Anonymous No.2029992]

>>2029947
Getting a triangle lab dragonfly myself, if you want to print higher end materials you're going to need a higher end hotend, that's how things go.

[Anonymous No.2029993]

>>2029918
this guy thinks his free time is worth money..oh my

[Anonymous No.2029995]

>>2029918
Get fucked brainlet, Průša isn't worth the price tag if you want to do anything more serious or intensive.

You're paying for a "it just werks" printer with Průša, much like with an iPhone.
If you want to do something with an iPhone which isn't expressly in it's toolkit, it's going to involve way too much more work than with an Android device that can do the same, often times better than an Itard device. But you're paying for that cost with time.

You bought an Ender. You can mod it to shit and make it do what you want and make it do it better than a Průša ať equivalent Price tag.

Sure you're going to need to put work into it to make it do things you want to do, but you can make it do it easier than with a Průša. If you can't handle tinkering hardcore with your hardware you picked a wrong hobby, dumbass.

[Anonymous No.2030000]

>>2029310
When I print over USB through Cura the computer straight up crashes and reboots after 20-40 minutes of printing. Any idea what to do to fix it? Is it a jank cable? Is it the printer USB being fucked?
It's far more convenient to print over USB for me as opposed to SD.

[Anonymous No.2030003]

>>2030000
Have you tried printing over USB with different software? Like Printrun?

[Anonymous No.2030004]

>>2029329
snap that off and glue it to a base you've got a d&d monster.

[Anonymous No.2030006]

>>2029511
THAT'S NOT A PRINTER ... it's a slicer

[Anonymous No.2030008]

>>2030003
It used to work before I updated Cura, that might be a problem, I'll either downgrade Cura or use an SD card and bite the bullet. Thing is usb control and everything else works fine through Cura, it starts being a problém when I start printing.
Shouldn't be a PC side issue since the entire computer is not even 6 months old.

[Anonymous No.2030018]

>>2029995
>Průša isn't worth the price tag
Ender is not worth the time.
>if you want to do anything more serious or intensive.
If you want to do something serious you buy a Stratasys.
>"it just werks"
That's called productivity.
>iPhone
Terrible analogy.
Prusa is open-source, much like Android.
>If you want to do something with an iPhone which isn't expressly in it's toolkit,
You use the right tool for the right job.
>But you're paying for that cost with time
That's a great deal unless you're a poorfag.
>You can mod it to shit
Bought a tool to use the tool, not to play with the tool.
Do you buy sticks because they're cheaper and "mod" them into hammers? Lmao.
>If you can't handle tinkering hardcore with your hardware you picked a wrong hobby, dumbass.
If you can't afford a Prusa you picked the wrong hobby.
>>2029993
It is.
>>2029986
Good for you.

[Anonymous No.2030019]

>>2029995
>Průša isn't worth the price tag
Ender is not worth the time.
>if you want to do anything more serious or intensive.
If you want to do something serious you buy a Stratasys.
>"it just werks"
That's called productivity.
>iPhone
Terrible analogy.
Prusa is open-source, much like Android.
>If you want to do something with an iPhone which isn't expressly in it's toolkit,
You use the right tool for the right job.
>But you're paying for that cost with time
That's a great deal unless you're a poorfag.
>You can mod it to shit
Bought a tool to use the tool, not to play with the tool.
Do you buy sticks because they're cheaper and "mod" them into hammers? Lmao.
>If you can't handle tinkering hardcore with your hardware you picked a wrong hobby, dumbass.
If you can't afford a Prusa you picked the wrong hobby.
>>2029993
It is.
>>2029983
Good for you.

[Anonymous No.2030021]

>>2029983
I have had similar experiences with mine.

[Anonymous No.2030023]

>>2030019
and what happens if the prusa needs maintenance?

[Anonymous No.2030029]

>>2029918
>It's 4chan's fault that I'm incompetent
k... keep me posted

[Anonymous No.2030030]

>>2029989
What do you want from prusaslicer anyway? What can it do that cura can't?

[Anonymous No.2030034]

>>2030023
Prusas don't need maintenance and Enders do not work without maintenance.
Anyway, you can return the product because it is not behaving as expected and receive a warranty repair, replacement or a refund. Creality does not accept returns, provide replacements or make repairs.
You can call customer support and they will provide you with the instructions to fix it. Creality does not have customer support.
>>2030029
It's my fault I expected /3DPG/ to be somewhat competent.
At least I ordered a Prusa and fixed my mistake.

The corp I work at has a $20000 printer and a mechanical engineer printing with it. They are doing something "serious and intensive" like the Anon said. However for some reason they did not choose an Ender 3 and task the engineer with "modding" it. Wonder why.

[Anonymous No.2030037]

>>2030034
https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/i3-printers-regular-maintenance_2072
does that $20k printer work without any maintenance? what print method does it use?

[Anonymous No.2030039]

>>2030034
>It's my fault I expected /3DPG/ to be somewhat competent.
/3DPG/ is competent; it's how we manage to work with Creality products. Your fault was coming to a board about spending time over spending money and being surprised when they don't recommend you a product designed to spend money over spending time. Also, not lurking long enough.

[Anonymous No.2030043]

>>2030034
>I fixed my mistake by spending money to avoid addressing it
Ah, the pure spirit of /diy/

[Anonymous No.2030045]

>>2030006
Silly anon, why would a slicer need that big stepper motor on the back?

[Anonymous No.2030053]

>>2030037
>https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/i3-printers-regular-maintenance_2072
>Recommended
Lol. It is recommended to check your tires in the morning before going anywhere, but nobody does that because that's not really needed.
>does that $20k printer work without any maintenance? what print method does it use?
Looks like I exaggerated.
It looks like a Form 3B from FormLabs, so it's probably more like $10000.
It's an SLA printer.
I don't know why they bought a "dental" printer, they basically print enclosures for the electronics devices we make.
Don't know about maintenance, I don't talk with the guy. I would expect the "Service plan" includes it.
>>2030039
>>2030043
>spirit of /diy/
Why are there constant threads shitting on Chinese hand tools and recommending quality brands, instead of threads recommending to buy chinkshit and mod it until it's comparable to quality products?
Why do machinists bash people who want to buy a shitty $200 chinkshit CNC mill and recommend buying a real machine instead of suggesting to mod the $200 chinkshit mill?
The general trend I see is people recommending to buy quality stuff (some still made in the West) over chinkshit, but /3DPG/ is different, you recommend buying chinkshit and modding it until it is comparable to quality stuff.
3D printing and 3D printer making/modding are two different things. Both are valid hobbies but I'm interested in the former, not the latter.
>not lurking enough
I saw the guy spamming "should've bought a Prusa".
I should have listened.
I saw countless questions of things that went wrong with Ender and not a single one about a Prusa.
I should have deduced the obvious reason.

[Anonymous No.2030055]

>>2029995
>Průša isn't worth the price tag if you want to do anything more serious or intensive.
It prints nylon, polycarbonate, and flexibles stock. It's commonly used in printing farms because its price, reliability, and quality with minimal overhead minimizes total costs.
https://youtu.be/AgtzoaH_2HQ?t=334
The i3 is a RepRap printer, and Prusa itself makes the plastic parts in-house.
https://youtu.be/BjoQw5fGk6Q?t=44
You can print your own parts to modify it if you want, but most people don't since it works well stock.

As with all other tools, the choice of which to buy depends on costs and benefits. There are reasons both the Ender 3 and Prusa i3 are recommended in the OP.

[Anonymous No.2030060]

>>2029918
>>2030053
Alright, none of us really care about your buyer's regret stemming from your technical incompetence, just tell us what the fuck is wrong. Post a pic of your print, otherwise, we'll just assume you're a shitposter. I can't think of a problem on an Ender that can't be fixed in like 30m or with around $20.

[Anonymous No.2030061]

>>2030023
prusa is open source dumbass, its as easy to repair as an ender 3 is

[Anonymous No.2030064]

is it normal for filament to ooze out of my hotend the first time I heat it up? I've heard that filament oozing is a sign that your temp is too high or your filament is wet but it only happens when I heat it up for the first time so I'm not sure

[Anonymous No.2030074]

>>2030034
>Průšas don't need maintenance
>Průša don't need maintenance
>Průša
>Maintenance
Yeah man I also believe entropy is a Jewish conspiracy.
Průša still uses the same fucking chink parts every other printer does. You're paying for RND, dipshit. RND which you don't even see

[Anonymous No.2030078]

>>2030030
I don't believe it can do anything Cura can't, if anything I recall Cura has better supports and tree supports are a dream. Just seen from multiple sources that Průšaslicer does a better quality output from the same Gcode.

[Anonymous No.2030083]

>>2030078
has anyone used that arc welder plugin in cura? wonder if it actually works?

[Anonymous No.2030086]

>>2030053
>I saw countless questions of things that went wrong with Ender and not a single one about a Prusa.
There's at least one post about trying to troubleshoot a prusa practically every thread. If you adjust for the relative demographic sizes that makes it basically on par with the Ender, possibly even a little worse.

[Anonymous No.2030091]

>>2030060
I was tired of leveling my bed for hours every time and getting bad results.
I asked what do (>>2017065) and you recommended a dial indicator (>>2017141 >>2017381) and BLTouch (>>2017074).
I wasted 10e on BLTouch (will arrive only after a month or two) and 25e (a stopgap solution I could get it in a week instead of two months) on a dial indicator only to find out that
a) >>2021711 my bed won't be level
b) >>2023167 I should ditch the indicator that you recommended buying
c) >>2023167 I should buy feeler gauges and wait two months until they arrive
d) >>2023167 >>2023257 >>2021753 I have to disassemble the stupid machine to either stuff washers or raise the Z axis
I started to SEETHE and am SEETHING to this very hour.

[Anonymous No.2030093]

>>2030064
Imagine this: there is filament in your hotend melting. Why? Because you left it there. A lot of smart people edit their ending Gcode to do a big retraction and pull the filament away from the hotend so it doesn't ooze like that. Don't preheat your printer until you are right about to print, you don't want to leave it sitting there hot for no reason. But, I think it's normal for some oozing to occur when there is filament in the hotend, just the nature of the beast.

[Anonymous No.2030094]

>>2030053
>Why are there constant threads shitting on Chinese hand tools and recommending quality brands, instead of threads recommending to buy chinkshit and mod it until it's comparable to quality products?
That's usually more difficult and less worthwhile with other tools. There's also tradie elitism/autism you should be reading into a lot of those posts and you disregard the also fairly frequent Harbor Freight threads where sometimes you do see chinkshit recommendations.

>3D printing and 3D printer making/modding are two different things.
Technically. There's usually a fuckton of overlap though, especially as you go further down the rabbit hole, and that's 100% the case here, as a bit of critical reading would tell you.

>I saw the guy spamming "should've bought a Prusa".
And apparently did not see the document in the OP of the very general you're posting in praising the i3 as the "golden standard." Your entire problem is that you didn't spend enough time reading or comprehending what you read and I'm not sorry for you. With the attitude you're displaying that's no surprise, though.

[Anonymous No.2030096]

>>2030064
Yep, totally normal. That's why most slicers put a purging line at the beginning of every print, to get rid of that oozenoodle along with all the filament that was sitting in the hotend stewing while it was warming up

[Anonymous No.2030101]

>>2030091
Cope, cringe faggot, manual bed leveling is easy.
Should've tried using glue stick to compensate for shittier prints until you could print better knobs/buy a few springs.
Bltouch is still a good upgrade for your cringe retard Průša nylon cocksock, but you're still a dumbass for even going here for first advice. This is last resort support.
I forever will be entertained by your failure and incapability to try seeking help somewhere else first and then coming here as last resort.
Fuck you, and fuck your Průša.

[Anonymous No.2030103]

>>2030078
How is that even possible if the gcode is the same? Or are you using your slicer as your gcode sender?

[Anonymous No.2030105]

>>2030103
Wait, fuck sorry. Same STL and comparable profiles. Something something about better print quality.

[Anonymous No.2030106]

>>2030096
I have a two step heating gcode.
Heat to 170 deg, Auto bed level, home nozzle to start of purge line. Heat to first layer temp, purge and print. Avoids oozing, especially with PETG.

[Anonymous No.2030107]

>>2030091
holy shit imagine not being able to figure out manual leveling with a fucking piece of paper

[Anonymous No.2030110]

>>2030101
>>2030107
poorfag COPE

[Anonymous No.2030114]

My ender 3 works fine 3dpg.
All I did was change the bed springs, get a glass bed and an ezabl and I'm enjoying it.

Thanks again for the recs, I love making stuff

[Anonymous No.2030115]

>>2030053
>3D printing and 3D printer making/modding are two different things
no anon they are not
if you want nice results you got to tune your machine.
That means you need to know it inside out and have all the quirks fixed, especially on the axis and extrusion.

Push button and get print only works if your standards are low

really hate to tell you, but the learning curve in this hobby is quite steep and handholding wont cut it, so if you abandon it at least you didnt waste a grand

[Anonymous No.2030119]

>>2030074
dont you get tired of posting the same pic over and over again
fucking boomer

[Anonymous No.2030123]

>>2030115
>Push button and get print only works if your standards are low
I don't care about quality, I'm only printing boxes to enclose electronics.
Thank you for confirming that Prusa is the best choice for me and will work with a push of a button.

[Anonymous No.2030132]

>>2030123
the corner on that lid looks like ass...is that prusa qaulity?

[Anonymous No.2030134]

>>2030119
If I did I would not post it.

[Anonymous No.2030136]

>>2030132
good enough for me
that's Ender

[Anonymous No.2030140]

>>2030107
The absolute state of Průša manlets.
Imagine being incapable of using your fucking eyes.

[Anonymous No.2030143]

>>2030140
I don't understand? I use manual mesh leveling on my ender.

[Anonymous No.2030146]

>>2030136
oh so now it's an ender ic

[Anonymous No.2030147]

>>2030146
What?
I had to manually level it to get that box.
I won't have to level a Prusa to get that box.

[Anonymous No.2030150]

>>2029660
Not sure, I don't have anything to compare it to. And with the 4.2.2 boards, they may have the same stepper drivers as the 4.2.7 silent board or they could have the old ones. I haven't popped a heat sink off of one of my drivers to check, so I'm not sure what I have. The noise doesn't bother me so I'm guessing I have the silent ones but I'm probably wrong.

[Anonymous No.2030153]

>>2030143
But you're fully capable of being able to manual level the thing, correct?

[Anonymous No.2030154]

>>2030153
Yeah, exactly. It takes ten minutes and you only have to do it every like 300 prints.

[Anonymous No.2030155]

>>2029947
I got a all metal V6 clone from Gulfcoast Robotics. So far, so good. I upgraded the heat break to a titanium one. But I need to upgrade the thermistor in order to reach the Temps required for nylon, so I cant really speak to that.

[Anonymous No.2030158]

>>2030008
Try a different USB port for troubleshooting purposes. And not one right next to the one you are currently using, go up or down instead.

[Anonymous No.2030163]

>>2030053
>real machine
ah yes the old and tired "real machine" fallacy

[Anonymous No.2030164]

>>2030123
prusa or not has nothing to do with this
a printer is limited by its frame design, all the rest can be changed easily.
If you dont care about speed higher than maybe 60, print quality is defined exclusive by the extruder, hotend and slicer profile, not if its an e3, a8, mk3s or diy coreXY

pic rel. ive started using 3d prints for form making. Sand is pretty unforgiving, i hold the plastic print and am pretty pleased but the shininess amplifies the layersteps by like 5 times again and ruins my rounds and fillets

[Anonymous No.2030169]

>>2030164
The point was that Prusa will print it out of the box without any tinkering. I won't even have to lift up my ass because it will send the STL over WiFi lol.

[Anonymous No.2030175]

>>2030169
an ender will also print out of the box if you assemble it carefully

most of the problems only show up when the noob user starts installing "upgrades" left and right, or doesnt put care into it

[Anonymous No.2030183]

>>2030175
Nope.
This is what it prints out of the box.
Would not happen with Prusa.

[Anonymous No.2030190]

>>2030183
>user error is the machines fault

[Anonymous No.2030192]

>>2030190
Would not happen with Prusa.

[Anonymous No.2030194]

>>2030183
>Would not happen with Prusa.

[Anonymous No.2030195]

>>2030192
being a tribalistic cunt really acts like a knowledge filter
stay in your bubble of ignorance

[Anonymous No.2030197]

>>2030175
>most of the problems only show up when the noob user starts installing "upgrades" left and right, or doesnt put care into it
yeah. i was the anon trying to print with a .8mm nozzle in the earlier threads and this basically describes my situation. I've been spending the past two weeks fixing shit that has gone wrong as a result of me rushing into that. I just keep getting issues. i tried printing a new fan enclosure today and failed on three first layers before I gave up because its a 10-hour print. and my extruder is slipping again and I don't know why. might be because I zip-tied the cable harness to the bowden tube. starting to get kinda tired of tracking down issues with this thing

[Anonymous No.2030199]

>>2030197
i switched one of my ender3 to .8 after failing to get .2 to work, prints beautifully chonky

[Anonymous No.2030200]

>>2030197
Hmm, I've been printing .8 almost exclusively because no patience and I have no such issues with my ender.

When I tried 1mm though, the extruder could not manage to keep up and I had to reduce printing speed so much that it wasn't even worth it.

[Anonymous No.2030202]

>>2030195
>tribalistic
I am pointing out that you are a back-pedalling liar.
I said that Prusa would print a box when taken out of the box: >>2030169
You lied that Ender would too: >>2030175
I pointed out the lie with a video of my first print with an out-of-the-box Ender: >>2030183
You back-pedalled blaming a user error instead of acknowledging that you lied and an out-of-the-box Ender would not print that box: >>2030190

>inb4 he tries to redefine what "out of the box" means
Dictionary definition:
>used to refer to the IMMEDIATE usability or functionality of a newly purchased product, typically an electronic device or a piece of software.
That's a pre-assembled printer that you take out the box and print with.

[Anonymous No.2030203]

>>2030202
OK you win, now please leave.

[Anonymous No.2030208]

>>2030200
>>2030197
>>2030199
>works for me
and you obviously run the same brand of filament

Knowing /3dp/ you run the most spiked chinkiest pla human can buy, and thats saving your ass.
Shit Pla is more viscous so you can push an enormous amount out without a volcano

[Anonymous No.2030209]

>>2030208
So you have shitty PLA and it's our fault?

[Anonymous No.2030210]

>>2030209
no, just pointing out a possibility why the .8 didnt work for anon

[Anonymous No.2030219]

>>2030210
I use inland PLA from microcenter, it could also have been because I didn't have my bowden tube properly mated with the nozzle when I put the 0.8mm one in. I'm probably not going to mess with it for a while until I can get my .4mm shit to print properly because in the end it only saved like an hour maybe which isn't really worth the hassle

[Anonymous No.2030220]

this fucking thread

[Anonymous No.2030223]

>>2030220
What, can't get it to work?

[Anonymous No.2030226]

>>2030223
my printer hasn't arrived yet, I'm just in disgust at the prusa vs ender tribalism

[Anonymous No.2030233]

>>2030226
I don't think its unreasonable for a person to be willing to pay more for a printer to work better more often and require less maintenance. i don't get why some anons on here are so elitist about spending more time fucking with their printer than printing. chances are even if you get a prusa that you'll have to mess with some part of it at some point.

[Anonymous No.2030235]

Anyone who doesn't build his printer from a reprap design himself is a faggot.

The Ender 3 is just a poor man's Prusa. They're both fucking gay.

[Anonymous No.2030237]

>>2030235
>They're both fucking gay.
The Prusa i3 and Mini are RepRap printers often sold as kits.

[Anonymous No.2030238]

>>2030235
The correct way to 3D print is on your own design carved from wood or chiseled from stone. Everyone else is a printlet.

T. Grug

[Anonymous No.2030239]

>>2030237
It's an partially assembled easy to put together kit with custom Prusa parts. It's not much better.

[Anonymous No.2030241]

>>2030237
that's what's funny unless you pay huge cash for getting pre assembled you still gotta put it together, on of those clone kits is like $300 less

[Anonymous No.2030242]

>>2030238
That's a thing you know:
https://reprap.org/wiki/Category:RepStrap

Build a somewhat working machine out of junk, wood or whatever else you have lying around, to print parts for a better one.

[Anonymous No.2030246]

>>2030242
You can't print printers with printers. I've watched Terminator, and that's how you get Printnet.

[Anonymous No.2030249]

>>2030233
I believe a lot of /diy/ comes from poor background and did DIY not because it was their hobby but because they couldn't afford to.
Pic related explains it better
That is why suggesting to buy a something that costs a little bit more to save time offends them so deeply. They do not want to admit that the more expensive choice might be a better one because that's a choice they cannot make because of their financial situation.

[Anonymous No.2030254]

>>2029939
>youre really not cut out for 3d printing

[Anonymous No.2030255]

>>2029664
I just got home and I'm starting on cleaning bolt holes and sanding rough edges now. I'll let you know as soon as I get it tested.

[Anonymous No.2030261]

>>2030246
Fuck off back to plebbit faggot

[Anonymous No.2030267]

>>2030261
No, I'll just sit here and watch you cry.

[Anonymous No.2030269]

I want to make my own ceramic UV resin that can be sintered. What UV is best for this and what should be the proper ratio between the ceramic powder and UV resin?

[Anonymous No.2030275]

>>2030091
Listen here you phenomenally retarded poorfag, I'm only going to tell you this once:
1. turn all of the bed springs anti-clockwise to lower all the fucking corners until the springs are tighter than your moms pussy
2. turn every one of those fucking knobs 2 turns clockwise to bring them all to about the same compression
3. level the bed with your method of choice. Since tools are too hard for you maybe you should just eyeball it
4. print a test print and adjust as necessary
There ya go, leveled bed. Post your test print so we can hold your hand and tell you what adjustments to make. Use this one and just let it print, don't stop it: thing:2987803

[Anonymous No.2030278]

>>2030238
The correct way to 3D print is to bootstrap from built-up weld metal parts.

[Anonymous No.2030280]

>>2030239
How about you state clearly and explicitly what you mean, then?

[Anonymous No.2030281]

>>2030278
the metal parts have to be smelted from the ore you mined youself anon

[Anonymous No.2030287]

>>2030254

[Anonymous No.2030289]

>>2030202
>I pointed out the lie with a video of my first print with an out-of-the-box Ender:
>incorrectly sets up printer
>first instinct when he notices print has gone wrong is to film his own retardation
Stop posting and come back when you're not so dumb

[Anonymous No.2030291]

>>2030269
Tethon3d have those and metal aswell, they are pretty tricky to fire. Integza on youtube have some videos related to using the ceramic resin.

They also have blank resins that will accept any powder. Would be nice to find a cheaper alternative for it tho...

[Anonymous No.2030295]

>>2030053
>Why are there constant threads shitting on Chinese hand tools and recommending quality brands
Because when a pair of pliers or a screwdriver breaks it's rarely worth it to fix them, if it's even possible to make a weld on chinese mystery meat steel that would even hold.

In those same threads you'll also see people shitting on snap-on for having marginally better tools than mid tier brands but overcharging in some cases by 10x the amount(their sockets are a good example).

>>2030034
>The corp I work at has a $20000 printer and a mechanical engineer printing with it.
>However for some reason they did not choose an Ender 3 and task the engineer with "modding" it. Wonder why.

Why didn't they order a prusa?

[Anonymous No.2030306]

>>2030295
>Why didn't they order a prusa?
prolly because that sort of money doesn't matter if it manages a 10% improvement in performance...

[Anonymous No.2030333]

>>2029514
on anon you sweet child

[Anonymous No.2030336]

Should I be concerned that when I home Z with safe homing enabled, the probe doesn't go to the exact center of my bed? Or does it really matter?

[Anonymous No.2030350]

>>2030275
Okay, did as you said.
What do I need to adjust?

[Anonymous No.2030354]

>>2030350
Jesus... Well, your nozzle is obviously too far from the bed, so you need to get it close for the shit to stick.
This is probably the simplest guide I know: https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html
Basically you have to move your nozzle to right above the screws for the corner adjust knobs and then lower your nozzle to Z=0, then adjust the springs up or down to get the corners in the right spot. Chep's guide is pretty good I think, give it a shot. It's actually easy to do and once you get it dialed in, you wont have to worry about it.

[Anonymous No.2030358]

>>2030295
>Why didn't they order a prusa?
Seems it's an SLA printer. >>2030053 The Prusa SLA printer has a significantly smaller build volume, and has only become available relatively recently.

[Anonymous No.2030360]

i dont have a printer yet, but is it actually cheaper to print your own generic items instead of buying them? like these parts bins for example. just how quick do you go through filament?

[Anonymous No.2030364]

>>2030091
Wait, you're that fucking goof last thread that had a dial indicator mounted? Look, you need to be able to sort out retard suggestions from genuine suggestions. I've never heard of anyone using a dial indicator on a hobbyist printer. Paper followed by slight tuning is good enough. I was the one that recommended feeler gauges if you absolutely need them, though it's really not necessary. I just have them from some firearm projects, so they're convenient but not necessary.

Regardless, yes, if you can't even bring your bed to a relative level, stack washers/new springs/bend the metal carriage. Changing your leveling tool won't suddenly change the extents that the bed can be adjusted. That metal carriage that the springs sit on top of not being flat is probably the real underlying cause. Those three previous methods or a combination of them should be able to fix your issue. Bending that one arm up should sort you out, though I don't trust you with tools, so probably just stack washers.

Again, with the Ender 3's, there isn't really an issue that can't be fixed with 30m and or $20. Stop raging, regain your composure, you're presumably a white man, act like it. This is a simple problem with a cheap solution, think of it as a mini IQ test, if you're above room temp it shouldn't be an issue. This shouldn't have even required a post in the first place, but it's fine so long as you're learning.

[Anonymous No.2030365]

>>2030360
one of those bins would probably run around a dollar or two in material.
>just how quick do you go through filament?
depends on your slicer settings really. a spool is 1 kg so figure out how much filament weight your parts use up

[Anonymous No.2030368]

>>2030360
If you're just printing small stuff(like less than a couple cubic inches or around there) a roll of filament will last quite a long time. I've had this same roll on my printer for a couple months now, granted I've only used it to print small shit.

If you're printing large shit then expect that roll to be gone after 1 - 4 prints, depending.

[Anonymous No.2030383]

>>2030360
Anything mass produced and very common like a simple plastic box like that is generally not worth printing, since you can just buy it cheaper. However, if you want a special mount to hold the box in a very specific spot in your workspace, or you want dividers and inserts for your box that perfectly match the parts you want to store in there, that's where the printer really comes into it's own.

[Anonymous No.2030387]

>>2030360
>is it actually cheaper to print your own generic items instead of buying them?
Might be. Depends on the specifics of the printed bin design and slicing, filament cost, local sales on bins, etc. The price will probably be close enough that it wouldn't be a deciding factor. If the mass-produced bins will work for you, it's faster and easier to buy them, but if you need something custom, printing your own is the obvious choice. Custom work is where 3D printing has advantages over mass production techniques, generally speaking. It can't compete with injection molding for mass production, but it's orders of magnitude faster and cheaper for a one-off custom part.

[Anonymous No.2030391]

>>2030249
>More money means something is better
I've setup and used a dozen different brands/models of printers and this just doesn't hold true. Ultimaker makes some horrifically overpriced garbage. But they have a service plan that they dupe educational institutions with and it allows them to inflate their pricing.
DaVinci printers are hot garbage with all kinds of proprietary nonsense.
Makergear is selling printers that are 5 years out of date in terms of both features and price. And yet they're the most reliable ones I've ever used (but wouldn't be willing to pay for myself).
Lulzbot Printers are mid-tier and about in the same class as Prusas given that they're both reprap clones. Lulzbots have a slightly better extruder layout, but servicing them for certain known issues is way less convenient.
Monoprice Maker Select v2s were the standard recommendation for newbs here 2 years ago. And those ceased production quite a while ago.
Qidi makes 8 variations of exactly the same thing (replicator clones). They're dirt cheap for a prebuilt and really reliable. But some of their newer models have adopted some really awful carry-overs from Makerbot who seem committed to making their entire product line worse over time.
And while circumstance dictated it, I can't say I would recommend a BCN3D printer to anyone given their price and tediousness of continued operation. If I had to go back in time I wuld have gone with a Craftbot instead.

[Anonymous No.2030420]

[Anonymous No.2030425]

>>2030360
the cool thing about printing boxes like this is that you can customize them completely like adding labels to them or making them whatever size and color you want

[Anonymous No.2030429]

>>2030364
I was like him, wanting it to be perfect because I couldn't get the shit leveled. I tried a dial indicator mounted (I had two mounts because the first one didnt work), I used feeler gauges, I even went as far as hooking up feeler gauges to a multimeter with alligator clips to give an alert when the nozzle actually touched the gauge. You know what worked the best in the end? A fucking piece of paper and then adjusting the knobs as needed ever so slightly while observing the printing process. It feels like it should be so accurate but I don't think its necessary anymore.

[Anonymous No.2030442]

>>2030429
Have you tried BLTouch? Shouldn't it solve all the problems?

[Anonymous No.2030443]

>>2030442
I'm actually setting one up right now but its kind of complicated to do. Like the BLTouch is offset from the nozzle so its not going to be able to reach the whole bed by default. I got mine dialed in to 91/100 points though, I guess thats good enough. I haven't tried printing anything with it yet. First, Ill try just a leveling test print. Generally I just printed small stuff but I need to print a few mods so assuming the test prints are good, I'll print a few things that are bigger.

[Anonymous No.2030450]

>>2030443
Well I canceled my BLTouch order from China and instead ordered it from Czechia for 150% the price, should be in two weeks instead of two months. So I should know pretty soon as well.
If it doesn't work, I'm ordering a Prusa Mini and the lesser-known sledgehammer upgrade for the Ender.

[Anonymous No.2030453]

>>2030450
It's unfortunate that you bought the knockoff instead of the real deal. Hopefully it works out though.
Here is the report after running G29. Not sure what is going on with those two high spots. Maybe I didn't need to get this thing after all.

[Anonymous No.2030458]

>>2030453
>the knockoff instead of the real deal
The real deal is 1/4th the price of the printer.
At that point you just buy a Prusa Mini.

[Anonymous No.2030459]

>>2030458
I don't care about the price of it. Someday I will have a better printer so I'll just move it over to that one. Or buy another, that sort of thing doesn't bother me.

[Anonymous No.2030461]

>>2030459
>I don't care about the price of it.
Then why buy a cheap printer?
>Someday I will have a better printer so I'll just move it over to that one.
Won't the better printer have an automatic bed-leveling built-in?
Isn't this a tool specifically for crappy printers that don't have auto-leveling?

[Anonymous No.2030464]

>>2030219
>it only saved like an hour
You can print twice the layer size, so a lot of the times you can cut your print time in half.

[Anonymous No.2030465]

>>2030461
The printer was a gift from my old man. I asked for it based on the OP of these threads.
When I mean better printer, I mean I will build one. Anything that goes on this printer that is an upgrade will go into a bigger and better frame someday in the future when I build my own. I guess I could add an auto-leveling bed but I haven't thought about it that much, I just want a bigger build area. Or maybe just a sturdier frame, I dunno. I've only printed small things so I don't really need something huge. I'll probably just keep upgrading this one because I enjoy it.

[Anonymous No.2030507]

>>2030450
>the lesser-known sledgehammer upgrade for the Ender
Which is?

[Anonymous No.2030509]

>>2030507
Smashing it to smithereens.
Optionally pouring gasoline over the remains and lighting it up.

[Anonymous No.2030522]

>>2030509
It's mostly aluminum. You'd be better served with a sawzall.

[Anonymous No.2030527]

>>2030522
or he could buy a piece of paper and learn how to level it

[Anonymous No.2030531]

>>2030527
Turns out even though it does not stick to the corners it works fine when printing on the center. Maybe my bed is warped, I don't know.
I'll try to get by like this until BLTouch arrives.

[Anonymous No.2030532]

>>2030420
@FBI

[Anonymous No.2030535]

>>2030532
? You can shoot rockets off

[Anonymous No.2030548]

>>2029546
>>2030255
I wound up installing the hero me gen 5 from thingiverse with 2 4020 blowers. I set the max fan at 50% and it's quieter than the stock blower was at 100%. I'm about to do a bridge test and see how low I can get away with.

[Anonymous No.2030555]

I'm thinking about getting an e3 pro w/ a glass bed and the upgrade kit, or a FLSun Q5. Which would you recommend for someone that is brand new to 3d printing and wants to be able to print out of the box and use it mostly to print things like shelf brackets and other random shit?

[Anonymous No.2030586]

>>2029995
Shut up you absolute nigger prusa has very thorough documentation lookup there stuff on linear advance. Just because you're poor a prusa isn't a luxury item like an iphone it's a precision machine.

[Anonymous No.2030600]

So the majority of these mesh validation lines went down ok, but the majority of the circles got all fucked up. What does that mean? Should I drop Z just a tiny bit more? How does this mesh compare to your guys? This is the first one that actually stuck after flashing and testing for literally hours. It's not quite center which annoys me. I had to add in the firmware some extra travel space so my X axis goes to 247 for example, just that way I could get the probe to as much of the bed as possible. The X and Y offsets for my probe are -49 and 0.

[Anonymous No.2030602]

>>2030600
The rest of my shitty mesh. Maybe I should use a different type of leveling instead of UBL.

[Anonymous No.2030604]

>>2030602
It looks like your bed might be a bit low. I've never used that test before, are those globs at the end of the lines supposed to be there? Also be careful with the magnetic mat, it looks like you're pretty close to hitting the power supply side, which happens to me all the time and can fuck up a print.

[Anonymous No.2030632]

I'm going mad over this.
I'm running ender 3 with 4.2.7 board, latest marlin, Direct Drive and I've calibrated E steps. I think I may have messed up my cura settings or something.
My temperatura towers and stringing test print fine.

[Anonymous No.2030635]

>>2030632
Retraction calibration? Could be wrong

[Anonymous No.2030638]

ANYCUBIC Mega Zero 2.0 for $169.51 from usa, $141.29 from china

smash or pass?

[Anonymous No.2030641]

>>2030053
>I saw countless questions of things that went wrong with Ender and not a single one about a Prusa.
because none of these poorfags could afford a prusa you godless iToddler.

[Anonymous No.2030643]

>>2030638
Decent printer, cheap as chips, go for it if you need one. If you're in the US, buy US, it saves on shipping time and customs hassle.

[Anonymous No.2030645]

>>2030632
Which stringing test did you use? Some of them are more intensive than others. Also if you have the latest marlin you might as well get linear advance on and calibrated, that can actually have an effect on reducing oozing.

[Anonymous No.2030651]

>>2030632
>>2030635
Could be, I ran this test https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction to tune in the settings as best I could till I saw no stringing.
Ended up at 1,4mm retraction 45mm/s speed.

[Anonymous No.2030654]

>>2030651
I've done that one too and I noticed I started getting tiny zits that I wasn't getting before. Try dialing in between current and previous values

[Anonymous No.2030656]

>>2030654
I switched from Bowden to direct drive, my initial value was 27 y mcrrent is 1,4, other direct drive users recommend somewhere between 0.8 and 3. Now I can dial in a happy medium but between 27 and 1,4 and try, but I think the DD needs a very conservative low value.

[Anonymous No.2030751]

Would it be a dumb idea to put a tube heater in my enclosure to help with high performance materials? It seems like they can take pretty high temperatures, and the built in thermostats go pretty high too

[Anonymous No.2030764]

>>2030751
The most I would do is to keep the enclosure the same temp as the bed. Any more and you might get some strangeness

If you live in a super humid place (like me, >70% humidity year round) then you're gonna want a dehumidifyer and even desicant.

[Anonymous No.2030905]

>>2030604
The globs are actually the missing circles. The edges get half circles so the globs are smaller. It's a huge pain in the ass, but I'll go through and lower (or raise?) the points where the circles didn't stick. Major stringing because I was running the test at 220 for this PLA, but the temperature tower I made before seemed to show that as the right temp. So next test will be at 215. Might move X home over one or two negative mm too, see if that helps center the grid. Although then I will have to reproBe, I guess it's OK.
Yeah the mat is really close to the PSU. Lucky for me, or unlucky depending on how you look at it, I crashed the hotend into the bed twice while it was hot, physically damaging the sheet and the bed. So I use these two marks as indexing marks and I have just barely enough clearance where nothing hits.

[Anonymous No.2030938]

>>2030751
post yfw you accidently your printer enclosure to a reflow chamber

[Anonymous No.2030943]

how do I repress the urge to check my printer constantly? I have mine in my room so its especially bad like it just makes me paranoid if I can hear it

[Anonymous No.2030958]

>>2030943
I get that feeling too, I need to check it if I hear it. And if I check it, I end up just watching it for a few minutes do it's thing, listening to its music.
You could try setting up OctoPrint so you can j st check the webcam once in a while. Other than that, do what you can to silence the thing so you don't feel the need to check on it.

[Anonymous No.2031007]

>>2030943
>>2030958
more importantly how come it only FAILS when I don't check it for several hours?

[Anonymous No.2031060]

>>2031007
Depends on the kind of fail I think, so its hard to say. Not a lot you can do when you see it failing other than adjust through the tuning menu.

[Anonymous No.2031063]

Approximately how many spools (1kg, or the equivalent of) have you gone though?
I'm just a baby, going to finish my first spool this week.

[Anonymous No.2031065]

Approximately how many 1kg spools have you gone through?
I'm just a baby, going to finish my first spool this week.

[Anonymous No.2031069]

>>2031065
I think 6 since late July.

[Anonymous No.2031075]

>>2031065
Almost 3 in 3 years
I mainly print small DIY related stuff.
Other than some stuff in the first month of having it, the only thing I've printed that I didn't design myself is a catapult

[Anonymous No.2031079]

>>2031065
I went through about half of a JAYO white PLA and maybe 1/10th of a glow in the dark PLA. About half of a black PLA... not a lot really. I only got my printer at the end of December though. Oh, also about 1/4 of a rainbow PLA.

[Anonymous No.2031102]

>>2031065
Prolly around 10-20 during my three years of printing

[Anonymous No.2031124]

>>2031065
5 in 2 years.

[Anonymous No.2031137]

>>2029332

What nozzle and temps you using with PETG?

[Anonymous No.2031141]

>>2031065
like 10.

[Anonymous No.2031143]

>>2031075
I know that feel
>use 100k printer to print catapult to annoy coworkers and shoot marbles into a cup from across the shop
>taxpayer funded of course
I miss that place

[Anonymous No.2031165]

Question for those of you who made their own glass build plates: how big did you cut the glass to be? The printable area on the Ender 3 is 235mm x 235mm. Should I cut the glass to that size? Should I cut the grass to a slightly bigger size? I see a lot of people using clips to keep the glass in place on the heated bed. I'm going to try Dycem attached to the bottom of the glass. Hopefully it works. I think my biggest concern with using the glass is going to be putting the glass in the same spot every time I use it. Like maybe I should print something to go to the corners so that it's it's at the same spot every time I put it on the bed. I'm not really sure. it would basically be little brackets or something that I would glued to the glass that could set along the corners have a heated bed so the glass always goes in the same position. Is that a stupid idea? You guys just throw your glass on the heated bed and call it a day?

[Anonymous No.2031185]

[Anonymous No.2031190]

this support was not easy to remove.

guess what the model was

[Anonymous No.2031193]

still can't work up the courage to get one. How loud are these and is the best beginner printer still the ender 3?

[Anonymous No.2031195]

>>2031190
Dragon dildo.

[Anonymous No.2031197]

>>2031195
very close

[Anonymous No.2031205]

>>2031165
Cut the glass to the size of the aluminum bed.

[Anonymous No.2031208]

>>2031193
they arent loud at all anyone who says they are loud needs to turn down their hearing aid

[Anonymous No.2031209]

>>2031197
how are split ergo keyboards anyway?

[Anonymous No.2031230]

>>2031209
I really like them. I never learned how to touch type until the split forced me to and I really like that I can keep my shoulders more open while typing.

[Anonymous No.2031235]

>>2031193
Stock Ender 3 is loud enough that you don't want to run the printer in your living or bedroom, but it's not so bad that it'll bother you if you keep it in another room or if you wear a headset.

Ender 3 is still good value for money, but the tech upgrade in the Ender 3 V2 is worth it. As a bonus that has silent steppers, which helps the noise level quite a bit. The loudest part on it will be the cooling fans, so the noise is about equal to what you get if you run a video game on a laptop (same diameter fans).

[Anonymous No.2031236]

>>2031185
Pan tilt platform?

[Anonymous No.2031294]

Retard question, but is this ringing/ghosting? I'd like a more experienced opinion before I go off trying to fix a problem I misdiagnosed.
Looks like it going off the simplify3d troubleshooting page, but it also looks a bit like another issue

[Anonymous No.2031315]

hoping someone would know what these connectors are called and where to get them? Picrel is a rambo 1.3 board and I need to figure out what connector this is for the steppers and also what the 3 pin ones are for the endstops. thank you!!

[Anonymous No.2031339]

>>2031007
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quantum_Zeno_effect

[Anonymous No.2031347]

Just curious if anyone can confirm if 2208/2225 drivers can work in uart mode on an MKS Gen V1.4? getting conflicting info online or it's mainly all about Gen L

[Anonymous No.2031359]

>>2031315
It's a JST connector but there's a bunch of them... Could be JST XH. Search up "JST XH 4-pin male" and compare pics.

[Anonymous No.2031360]

>>2031294
Might be a Z axis screw problem, like maybe it is misaligned.

[Anonymous No.2031364]

>>2031235
so ender 3 v2, got it. Anything that a first-timer should know or any things to get before hand that you guys might remember from your first time starting or that youve noticed over time? Things to avoid and things to get?

[Anonymous No.2031367]

I am really disappointed in all of you faggots. How could you not have made clear to me how essential it is to have a glass build plate?????

[Anonymous No.2031370]

>>2029420
Tell your roommate to either fuck off or learn about the biocompatibility of PLA.

[Anonymous No.2031373]

>>2031367
>how essential it is to have a glass build plate
It's not though.
t. PEI coated spring steel bed

[Anonymous No.2031375]

>>2030083
Whta? arc welder?

[Anonymous No.2031380]

>>2030420
Nice work anon

[Anonymous No.2031381]

>>2031375
this thing https://youtu.be/18uYYXecH5g

[Anonymous No.2031383]

>>2031065
About 20-30 over the last year

[Anonymous No.2031386]

>>2031197
Double Dragon Dildo?

[Anonymous No.2031388]

>>2031373
...But the steel bed has thermal expansion properties that result in lower quality prints.

[Anonymous No.2031395]

>>2031388
what are some examples of this?

[Anonymous No.2031403]

>>2031381
neat

[Anonymous No.2031405]

>>2031395
Mostly the first few layers of the print can be less consistent or the higher thermal conduction can cause uneven heat patterns. Honestly doesn't make too much of a difference, but can save a little bit of printing or post processing time if you want it to look nice

[Anonymous No.2031412]

Does anyone have the files for the assortment system feaured in a recent Alexandre Chappel vídeo?

[Anonymous No.2031415]

>>2031205
Thanks anon.
I got 3 pieces of the 6-pack I bought cut good enough to work. The other three had weird fails like wiggly breaks. Guess I was pressing the cutter down too hard when I scored the glass.
Now I'm about to put this Dycem to the test and see what happens when it goes above 50ºC. I generally run my bed at 60ºC just because that's the default, although I have heard you don't need a heated bed for PLA. Hopefully the Dycem doesn't actually melt!

[Anonymous No.2031423]

>>2031364
Get a set of digital calipers. With printing, you are often working with fractions of a millimeter (although in decimal form). For example, a layer height of 0.20mm. You mainly need them for calibration, which you will want to do as soon as you get your printer. Get a set of nozzles so you can try out different sizes. 0.4mm is the standard size, but they go up and down from there. I'd recommend getting a nozzle wrench, too like pic related. I think they are just called bent socket wrench or something like that. Get a magnetic build plate if yours doesn't come with one, they make it real easy to take the prints off. Or a glass build plate.
What do you plan on printing? Make sure to get a couple of spools of PLA in the color of your choice as the printer only comes with a small sample. If you get any exotic filament like wood, metal, or glow-in-the-dark, you will need a nozzle of at least 0.6mm to help prevent clogging.
The printer comes with everything you need to put it together. If I was you, I'd pick up a few of those cheap magnetic parts trays from Harbor Freight or similar, great for just tossing your tools/magnetic parts in. You can always print a holder to hang them in or hold them.

[Anonymous No.2031425]

>>2029310
Getting ready to add linear rails to my ender 5 pro. Anyone do this yet? Also is there a rack and pinion upgrade?

[Anonymous No.2031426]

>>2031412
assortment system? Video?

[Anonymous No.2031428]

>>2031423
Does the magnetic build plate really help that much? There must be a better way to remove prints

[Anonymous No.2031429]

>>2031428
After owning several beds, some metal, magnetic, and glass, glass is my preferred method, with some construction paper on top. Works great for me.

[Anonymous No.2031430]

>>2031429
I've even used Jello 10:1 mixture, it works really well but it's messy. Construction paper is by far the best print surface I've ever used.

[Anonymous No.2031434]

>>2031428
glass then put it in the freezer works great, but i'm looking into spring steel for new printer build

[Anonymous No.2031443]

>>2031429
>glass with construction paper on top
isn't the point of a glass bed the glass surface? why the construction paper?

[Anonymous No.2031444]

>>2031430
I don't understand how we have not figured out a universally good solution for something as simple as the build plate. I will come out of my laboratory (my parent's basement) if or when I figure it out.

[Anonymous No.2031445]

>>2031443
The first purpose is that borosilicate glass expands and contracts minimally due to temperature variation.
Second, it is typically harder than the nozzles, scraping devices etc, so it stays perfectly smooth.
Third, it is an insulating material, so the heated be will distribute heat more evenly and consistently without conducting an excessive amount of heat to the material.

[Anonymous No.2031451]

>>2031443
Construction paper is cheap, holds to the part without glue, easily removed from bed and part. Just tape it down. The glass bed holds heat the best, doesn't shrink or grow etc. Try the paper trick out, trust me it's really easy. The reason you don't hear about it is because of how good it is and how cheap it is.

[Anonymous No.2031454]

>>2031451
Use painters tape to hold the paper down. It's a really good surface to print on. Paper sticks very well to plastic. Little alcohol or watered down fingernail polish remover cleans it right up. I second this trick, been doing it for years. It was actually the preferred method for bed material for a while.

[Anonymous No.2031456]

>>2031444
Paper. It's by far the best.

[Anonymous No.2031461]

>>2030905
I finally went back to bilinear leveling because adjusting those nodes was too big of a pain in the ass. I don't know who decided that they would start the nozzle 10 cm off the bed and make you manually crank it down .01mm at a time for every point, but they should die in a fire.

[Anonymous No.2031478]

I have two questions.
- Have any of you printed with Grilon3 PLA+? How is it? It's the only branded filament in my local store, and everybody in the internet seems to recommend eSun.
- How difficult is to print TPU stuff with an Ender 3? I'd like to print some waterproof fittings with that.

[Anonymous No.2031488]

>>2031444
>something as simple as the build plate
Except it's not so simple. The basic job is to hold tight to plastic while it's hot while being easy to remove when cool. But "hot" isn't one single temperature, and there are a wide variety of plastics in use with different chemical structures, which gives them different bonding properties.

[Anonymous No.2031491]

>>2030164
>pic rel. ive started using 3d prints for form making. Sand is pretty unforgiving, i hold the plastic print and am pretty pleased but the shininess amplifies the layersteps by like 5 times again and ruins my rounds and fillets
cover the print with some filling putty/clay and wipe off excess to fill in the lines

[Anonymous No.2031492]

>>2031478
>Grilon3 [... is] the only branded filament in my local store
E ameo
Haven't tried their PLA+ yet

[Anonymous No.2031507]

>>2031423
>not using vernier callipers

[Anonymous No.2031518]

>>2031065
I do about 15 a year

[Anonymous No.2031519]

>>2031507

Ironically, the cheap digitals are more accurate than the cheap verniers.

Chink manufacturing is nuts.

[Anonymous No.2031525]

>>2031383
>>2031518
Printer farms?

[Anonymous No.2031527]

>>2031065

Like 7 in the past 2-3 years. I don't generally print big things or decorations, so it only gets used for smaller, practical parts that I can't make faster or more easily via machining, welding, or woodworking. It's surprising how little material you actually use when you really optimize your parts.

[Anonymous No.2031538]

>>2031519
>more accurate than the cheap verniers
Do you mean more accurate or more precise? For precision, my cheap verniers go down to increments of 20µm. For accuracy, it has a 0.2mm offset, but I've learnt to just zero that in any measurements that aren't differential anyhow. Sure the digital ones are more convenient, but half of them are made of shitty carbon fibre plastic that I don't trust not to erode or remain dimensionally stable. Also I use my callipers as scribes because I'm a shitter.

[Anonymous No.2031556]

>>2031491
Too much work
I use a cardscraper on the flats, rest is dealt with in post procession

[Anonymous No.2031563]

>>2031488
stop being an autist. it is simple

[Anonymous No.2031565]

>>2031525
No, I have just been doing a lot of printing the last year.

[Anonymous No.2031566]

>>2031065
I went through 10 since august, so I guess around 20 a year on a single ender3. But about 80% of prints is stuff I sell, not for myself

[Anonymous No.2031567]

>>2031527
Big things and decorations can really eat through the filament. But, now my apartment has furniture and decorations.

[Anonymous No.2031569]

>>2031538
>Do you mean more accurate or more precise?

Both. The two I have not only don't even start at 0 when closed, the ends of the vernier scale don't even line up properly. Near the end, they're off by like a full 0.2mm, even after I adjusted the vernier pieces to zero properly.

Obviously the composite ones are straight trash not fit for anything other than a handyman's tool bag (where I do keep a set). Yet, ironically, the plastic Harbor Freight ones are actually better than the "nice" cheap steel verniers when it comes to measuring things. Though I suspect that won't last long, given the fact that the jaws of the thing are...you know...plastic.

Point is, if you have to cheap out, cheap out with a digital one. It's a safer gamble. In my experience, anyway.

[Anonymous No.2031580]

>>2031563
So what's a simple, universally good build plate solution, then?

[Anonymous No.2031582]

>>2031580
I'm working on it. Don't rush me

[Anonymous No.2031593]

>>2031569
>the ends of the vernier scale don't even line up properly
Oh really? That's awful, I'm glad mine don't have that issue. They weren't from alibay, but from the bargain auto store.
I'm considering grinding down one jaw to remove the offset, but I'd also need to grind both ends of the callipers down. That I can probably deal with, given sufficient patience, but I've no idea how to grind or calibrate the internal-measuring jaws.

I think the manufacturing problem is that the scales are held in place by not very well machined screw-holes. If they were held in place by locating pins before drilling the fastening holes, that would make them a lot better.

[Anonymous No.2031595]

>>2031580
Phenolic paper, pertinax

[Anonymous No.2031613]

>>2031525
Nah, I just dream up a lot of shit to prototype

[Anonymous No.2031622]

>>2030123
>flat head screws
damn masochists on my board

[Anonymous No.2031629]

>>2031388
If you preheat, is this an issue? It seems to me that as long as the bed has been at the same temperature for a while, it wouldn't be an issue.

[Anonymous No.2031661]

Is the creality 4.2.7 board only compatible with LED based runout sensors?
I have the Z endstop that I'm not using anymore and I thought I'd use that as a runout sensor, how retarded is that?

[Anonymous No.2031703]

split keyboards are fun

[Anonymous No.2031713]

>>2031661
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3850237
I've done it, but I don't recommend it. It sort of works, in that it does an automatic filament change when the filament runs out, but despite lots of tinkering the sensor keeps giving false positives at random, and the result is prints getting paused in the middle of the night for nothing. I never had any false negatives, but frankly it was less hassle to just disconnect the sensor in favour of hanging a bell on the filament and not running any prints long enough to run out of plastic when I wasn't nearby to change it manually.

The solution I ended up using is a homemade switch consisting of a small printed wheel on a paperclip. When the filament exits the wheel the paperclip falls onto two wires and closes the circuit. It's ugly, but no false positives, so far no false negatives, and I didn't have to buy any parts.

[Anonymous No.2031718]

Do stepper motor dampers make a big difference? I've had my ender 3v2 for a while now and did the whole fan swap and now the loudest part is the whirring and vrrting of the motors and presumably belts

[Anonymous No.2031722]

>>2029514
you couldn't be more new if you were an iphone 13

[Anonymous No.2031779]

How do you guys store your filament? Is it super important to keep them in a climate controlled area like pic related? I see a lot of videos where people just have their filament hanging out like in MatterHackers videos or even Thomas Salamander (Tom's Guides) videos. Filament isn't exactly cheap, especially if you have a few dozen rolls. I just don't want my filaments (mostly PLA, a few PETG, and 1 spool of TPU) to go bad. What do you think of storage solutions like pic related? Is it better or easier to use something like a box? I live south of Portland, Oregon so it's pretty wet most of the year.

[Anonymous No.2031780]

>>2031779
I see a lot of people's printer areas exactly like this with spools just hanging out.

[Anonymous No.2031781]

>>2031780
A DIY storage box with I think dessicant in the bottom. There are commercial versions of thj gs like this available.

[Anonymous No.2031782]

>>2031779
I keep mine in Rubbermaid bins with some desiccant at the bottom

[Anonymous No.2031810]

>>2031779
i just leave them out in the open
never had moisture problems but with one roll of Collorfab Ngen i dont even know what plastic that is.

When i pull out a roll after a long time i let it sit on the Radiator for a couple days

i have a roll of 4 year old chink goo pla that hasnt pulled moisture yet

[Anonymous No.2031822]

total fucking noob here

question, do 3D printers that print metal just print any metal?
if so, even rare metals, like rare earths?
can I melt down a couple of 5 gal bucket full of scrap rare earths and make my own filament?

[Anonymous No.2031826]

>>2031822
No.

[Anonymous No.2031840]

>>2031822
Yes.

[Anonymous No.2031844]

Why are there ripples on my part? It's going slow, 0.05 mm layer height. PLA. 200 C

[Anonymous No.2031850]

>>2031779
It mostly depends on the filament and how hygroscopic it is. If you just use PLA, I wouldn't worry about it. However, something like Nylon or PC more or less needs to be kept in a drybox.

For your case, I wouldn't worry too much about the PLA. The PETG and TPU are slightly more hygroscopic to my knowledge, so if you think it's worth it, you can drop the money on an airtight container and some silica desiccant beads, though it's not necessary. You can ultimately dry it back out in the oven or something, though with enough cycles in the oven it can become brittle.

[Anonymous No.2031871]

>>2031850
>Nylon or PC more or less needs to be kept in a drybox
Nylon and PC pick up enough moisture fast enough that they should be kept in a dry enclosure while printing unless it's a quick print.

[Anonymous No.2031874]

>>2031822
Metal printers generally don't use filament, unless you count welding robots. Selective laser melting printers can print basically any metal but they are fantastically expensive and use fine metal powder which can be quite dangerous to have around.

[Anonymous No.2031877]

>>2031874
Sinterit Lisa is 10k, not exactly cheap, but definitely affordable.

[Anonymous No.2031882]

>>2031877
I don't think you can do metal with one of those. They're meant for stuff like nylon and rubber

[Anonymous No.2031893]

>>2031871
Ye... yeah? That's more or less what I said, right?

[Anonymous No.2031924]

Plugging in my raspberry pi 4 to my powered off ender 3 4.2.7 board using USB powers on the screen and makes it screech (like coil whine)
What the actual fuck.

[Anonymous No.2031937]

>>2031924
Your pi is sending power to your printer and your printer is now trying to use the very small amount of power to boot up. Turn your printer on then connect your pi

[Anonymous No.2031955]

Is it possible to generate a printable model from something like this? It's from Cults.

[Anonymous No.2031960]

>>2031955
What is cults? "something like this" meaning pictures from multiple angles?

Photogrammetry software might be able to do it but you'll probably need more images than that and who knows if it will work on a render. Would be kind of an interesting experiment.

Otherwise it wouldn't be hard at all to use that image as a reference to make a model in CAD. software.

[Anonymous No.2031973]

>>2031924
>>2031937
Also, print this thing so the printer screen won't be on when the printer itself is off.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3044586

[Anonymous No.2032004]

>>2031960
Cults3D. It's a website where you can buy STL files. An anon mentioned knob detent for a solution to keep bed leveling knobs from wandering. I think I found the model, but it's a paid model, so I was trying to figure out a way to get around paying the $1 or whatever it costs. Probably should just pay for it.
The image is part of their 3D preview, there were more images but the one I posted was cropped due to resolution restrictions here.

[Anonymous No.2032009]

>>2031955
looks like a standard arri rosette, shouldn't be hard at all to model.

[Anonymous No.2032012]

>>2032004
3d printed knob detends are a shit idea.
Under heat leeching from the spring, srews and convection from the plate, aswell as the permanent pressure they will deform and throw your leveling off

[Anonymous No.2032017]

>>2032004
>knob detent for a solution to keep bed leveling knobs from wandering
I understand the need but there's other models on thingiverse too, you could try some of those.
I use these, pic related: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203563 (site is fucky again, might not work)
Also >>2032012
These lock style ones should be much better against that. Can't really say for sure since I have mine made out of ABS and those take the heat no problem.

[Anonymous No.2032040]

Adventures in pink pla2 continued

[Anonymous No.2032054]

Just got an Ender 3 v2 and the filament tube keeps popping out like this. Is there a replacement part I should buy or a quick fix like super gluing the tube inside the extruded?

[Anonymous No.2032058]

>>2032054
You should have gotten a tiny bag of blue clips with the printer. Just click one in the clamp to hold it in place. Otherwise you can print one.

[Anonymous No.2032062]

>>2032054
you're probably not setting the tube in properly, although the stock fittings aren't the best quality. it's reccomended to pick up some capricorn bowden tubing anyway, you can grab some better fittings at the same time
https://www.captubes.com/shop/#!/XS-Creality-Kit-1-Meter/p/123266986/category=24343139

[Anonymous No.2032064]

>>2032054
sorry for my autism but I can't stop looking at those paintings and thinking how horrible they must look

[Anonymous No.2032072]

>>2032012
I tried lock washers above the knobs and wing nuts below but it didn't work that well. Maybe Nylok wing nuts or jst regular Nylok nuts would be better. One problem I had with the wing nuts was that with the two locking toothed washes, they would actually spin the knob which is not what I was going for. Maybe I should try some of those silicone spacers. Either buy those or try printing in TPU although I'm not sure how well that would work.

>>2032017
Yeah that link 404s. I'm pretty sure I saw that model on Cults and I'm guessing that is why Thingiverse took it down. There is this one which is a remix: thing:4718009. It was just uploaded near the end of January this year. I don't know the legality of remixes of paid models but I'm guessing it will probably get flagged and taken down eventually. The only issue with the one above is that you have to print the knobs, too, but maybe they would work with the stock knobs. I guess it's not really an issue if you aren't a lazy SOB.

[Anonymous No.2032077]

>>2032072
Maybe I'm retarded, but why not just blue loctite?

[Anonymous No.2032078]

>>2032072
Well, I managed to snag it while it was up.
Since I'm feeling extra generous today here's some dolphin porn if anyone's interested:
https://mega.nz/file/1VlGkLAJ#RYDLLd9na_r0YI5ANaQmOKlC7O5SrZ1p7_EG6mcGh3I

[Anonymous No.2032116]

>>2032077
Because I only have red. I guess that's a solution I hadn't considered, but I think it would have to be the stuff that can handle higher temps, not entirely sure I only use the red stuff on cold objects.

>>2032078
Fuck yeah, that's awesome! Thanks anon!

[Anonymous No.2032117]

>>2032058
>>2032062
>>2032064
Just wrapped some duct tape around it and it works fine

[Anonymous No.2032125]

>>2032117
The tube kept coming out because that fitting you're jamming it into is a push to connect fitting. I.e. you push it to connect it, and pull it to lock it. There's supposed to be little blue clips you put in there to prevent you from pushing it therefore locking it.

[Anonymous No.2032155]

>>2030531
Swap it for a flat glass bed. A little spritz of Aquanet and everything sticks perfectly when it’s hot.

[Anonymous No.2032156]

>>2031065
36 since august 2020.
>running 2 printers 24/7/365 making dumb shit for an Etsy shop

[Anonymous No.2032169]

>>2032078
So I'm confused... Do these things install with the flat part against the bed like how they print? Because in the pic here >>2032017 it supposedly shows the view from the top yet there are only 2 of the detent retainer things available, A & B. Maybe I just need to print them and stop getting confused. One of the included pictures shows it with the flat part up and the spring above that, but the rear view in the pic from above seems to show the arm/body of the thing flipped.

[Anonymous No.2032172]

How should I go about converting pic related into a manifold mesh?

[Anonymous No.2032177]

>>2032169
Whoever designed those parts knew they were going to be 3d printed, why the hell did they decide to design them in a way that requires supports in any orientation?

[Anonymous No.2032192]

>>2032125
I’m confused. I pushed the tube in all the way and put the blue clip over it but it still came loose and it didn’t seem like the blue clip did anything. Was I supposed to only insert it like a couple millimeters?

[Anonymous No.2032212]

>>2032177
Yeah they certainly knew it would require supports based on this pic. I'm not sure it could be designed any other way though except to maybe put in some breakable parts along the edge and just bridge across the gap. I'm not sure that people really put that sort of stuff in their models though.

[Anonymous No.2032216]

>>2032192
You need to push it in until it stops. Then, once it is in, sometimes you need to pull the plastic part out of the brass a bit to get the teeth to lock into the tube. Inspect the connector with no tube in it to see the teeth.
Once you do that, put the clip in. It's possible you just have a junk connector. But the way that it works is the gray plastic part gets pushed in and retracts the teeth of this gripper thing that holds the tube in place.

[Anonymous No.2032218]

>>2032192
You notice how the end of that fitting can be pushed in? Push it in, _then_ insert the tube and push that in. Now pull the fitting out (keep pressing the tube in) and put on the collar.
The Ender 3 collars aren't the firmest thing ever, but they're more than good enough to keep the bowden tube in place, you're just installing it wrong.

[Anonymous No.2032219]

>>2032156
nerf anon?

[Anonymous No.2032225]

>>2032156
Link etsy shop.
I unironically want to start a mini print farm, I work part time and could use some extra income.

[Anonymous No.2032234]

if having multiple gears is good for an extruder, why doesnt the x, y, and z axis have gearing?

[Anonymous No.2032236]

>>2032234
Because gears have backlash and would cause axis shifts every time you reversed directions.

also what extruders are you talking about? I've never seen any extruders with gears.

[Anonymous No.2032237]

Does anyone have recommendations for a CNC machine? In b4 it depends on whether I want to cut wood or metal or acrylic, and there's no real multi-media option

[Anonymous No.2032243]

>>2032172
open up anon, here comes the airplane:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2642473

[Anonymous No.2032245]

>>2032234
X and Y don't need much force, and z already has mechanical advantage from the lead screw(s)

[Anonymous No.2032247]

>>2031065
2.75 PLA
0.10 Nylon
0.33 PLA2
0.50 PETG

[Anonymous No.2032248]

>>2032237
>Does anyone have recommendations for a CNC machine? In b4 it depends on whether I want to cut wood or metal or acrylic, and there's no real multi-media option

>does anyone have recommendations for a battery? In b4 it depends on whether I want to start a car with it or power a remote, there's no real multi-use option

It heavily depends on what you want to do with it.

[Anonymous No.2032249]

>>2031193
if you just want to print get a monoprice mini delta. low buy in and it just works. you can move it around and spend your time printing things instead of printing upgrades for your printer.

[Anonymous No.2032251]

>>2032248
watch and learn:

>>2032237
SainSmart Genmitsu CNC Router Machine 3018-PROVer

[Anonymous No.2032253]

>>2032225
>allowing you to copy his successful dumb shit
find your own dumb shit dummy

[Anonymous No.2032265]

>>2032236
i know there are anti-backlash gears out there, i saw one for a z axis the other day on leddit
theres a ton of geared extruders out there, bmg extruder is popular one, i think prusa has one too

>>2032245
well maybe not for force but what about for accuracy? like if your gearing breaks up the microsteps then wouldnt it be more accurate? like if your steps increase from ~80 per revolution to 400?

[Anonymous No.2032272]

>>2032243
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2642473
I can assure you, the type 1 bus (type 2a) was not manufactured in the 70s.

[Anonymous No.2032273]

>>2032251
Seems like a decent option for carving, machining wood, and laser engraving/cutting.
What machine of a similar quality would you recommend that can machine small aluminum parts. I don't care about speed that much, as long as it can do it decently it's good enough.

[Anonymous No.2032274]

>>2032216
Thank you so much that fixed it!

[Anonymous No.2032283]

>>2032272
I'm sorry I said
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2642473
when I should have said
>there is like a 99% chance that someone has already modeled this why don't you go fucking have a look for yourself instead of posting a grainy pic nobody could give a flying fuck about you fucking prick
my bad

[Anonymous No.2032313]

New Thread
>>2032312

[Anonymous No.2032435]

>>2032169
>Do these things install with the flat part against the bed like how they print?
No, you're supposed to flip them. When installed the letters on them should be the right way up

[Anonymous No.2032437]

>>2031973
Thanks for the file, I sent ahead and used a piece of tape

[Anonymous No.2032478]

>>2032253
There's a 99% chance we're not in the same country, retard.

[Anonymous No.2032488]

what are some good videos and articles on CoreXY printers? I'm entertaining the thought of getting one in the future, and want to know what I'd be in for.

what are the tony stark robot arm type 3d printers called? my nephew was asking me about them.
>>2031423
>I'd pick up a few of those cheap magnetic parts trays from Harbor Freight or similar
this. they also have those silicone trays for phone repair too.

[Anonymous No.2032491]

>>2031893
Storing in a drybox doesn't help much if you need to take nylon out of the box to print. It may only take a few hours to absorb enough moisture from the air to mess up print quality. "Keeping" filament is ambiguous wording above. Dryboxes are commonly used for storage, after all. I was pointing out that some plastics need extra care.

[Anonymous No.2033272]

>>2029420
If your roommate smokes or cooks that's way worse than whatever your printer generates

[Anonymous No.2033276]

>>2029995
>Průša isn't worth the price tag if you want to do anything more serious or intensive.
Meanwhile I'm over here literally printing parts for use in space equipment, but okay, guess prusas aren't "serious"