/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.2021534]

We Have Such Sights To Show You Edition
Old thread: >>2018233
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright.

[Anonymous No.2021541]

I used the $5k Makerbot yesterday and compared to my cheapo offshore 3D printer that thing makes beautiful parts. Really shows you how far money can take you, or how bad I am at tuning my printer.

[Anonymous No.2021543]

>>2021534
>Most anons use Fusion360
I still don't believe that
>Can make whatever I want
>enslaved to a software maker
Just doesn't add up

[Anonymous No.2021546]

>>2021541
Here's a pic

[Anonymous No.2021548]

>>2021546
>>2021541
Here's a rack, related to the plunger, they both go to the Stampede. I'm cloning all the parts. Chinese printer made a great rack. All it needed was to be hit with the deburr tool and it slid right in just like the original.

[Anonymous No.2021549]

>>2021548
>forgot pic

[Anonymous No.2021551]

>>2021549
>rotated

[Anonymous No.2021566]

>>2021546
did you use the same gcode on both printers?

[Anonymous No.2021568]

>>2021549
>>2021551
lol that's not what the thumbnail told me it was

[Anonymous No.2021593]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhlS-mHly1M

Speedrun 3d printing

[Anonymous No.2021598]

Is it possible to remove the current stepper drivers from the Creality 4.2.2 board? I want to upgrade but I feel like if I get rid of the board and upgrade to SKR or something that it won't be an Ender anymore. Couldn't I just desolder the current chips and solder new ones in?

[Anonymous No.2021599]

>>2021543
Pretend I didn't know any better when I got started in 3d printing. What's a better option that would be similar?

[Anonymous No.2021600]

>>2021546
Your ender is tuned like ass

[Anonymous No.2021603]

>>2021598
Replace it with the skr e3 mini v2, add an orange pi and run klipper

[Anonymous No.2021610]

I'm going to my parents house this weekend and plan on leaving my Ender 3 on a long print. The fucker does not shut off after it's done so I'll have to plug it into a smart socket, SSH into my home the next day and turn the socket off.
Is it safe to leave my Ender 3 printing alone for a long time or should I buy apartment insurance first?
I have left it for 9h previously while I was sleeping, didn't catch fire or anything.
No PSU upgrades, all stock except glass bed.

[Anonymous No.2021612]

>>2021610
Can you at least leave a webcam watching it?

[Anonymous No.2021613]

>>2021600
What can I do to change that?

[Anonymous No.2021623]

From the previous thread, it's an ender 3 pro btw. Has anyone had any issues similar to this:
> Prints suddenly start stringing and printer is barely extruding
> Nozzle is clogged, replace nozzle
> Still barely extruding, replace bowden tube
> Still barely extruding, calibrate extruder multiple times
> eSteps/mm go from 90 to 230 and flowrate at 95%
> printing normally again
What could cause such a change in eSteps? Did I maybe fuck up my extruder?

[Anonymous No.2021624]

>>2021612
>Can you at least leave a webcam watching it?
I guess I can leave my laptop running too, I'll figure out a way to connect its camera to the Raspberry.
Thanks for the suggestion!

[Anonymous No.2021625]

>>2021623
is the gear on the extruder-motor screwed in tight and did you check voltage on the stepper-driver?
my e3p with the silent board came with voltages way too high, have fried the motor a bit

[Anonymous No.2021654]

>>2021623
>ender3
>230 E-steps
Does not compute. If you didn't change extruders something is clearly wrong. Do you get consistent results when extruding 100mm while calibrating? Is the extruder gear grub screw tightened properly? Is the extruder gear worn out? Is the extruder arm clamping properly? Maybe you have to loosen the screw a bit.

I got this gear for my ender and it helped me a lot with extrusion consistency
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32535035487.html

[Anonymous No.2021660]

>>2021654
The gear looks good to me. Since I've set the eSteps to 230 it has been consistently extruding the expected amount. I've screwed the spring screw thingy so that it is light teeth marks in the filament. Also the extruder doesn't seem to be slipping either. How else can I check if the arm is clamping properly? Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check out that gear!

[Anonymous No.2021661]

>>2021625
I'll check the voltage next time! What is the acceptable range?

[Anonymous No.2021711]

The top right corner is too low and I cannot make it go up any more.
What nut or bolt do I have to tighten to fix it?
Sorry for the potato quality, max upload size 3MB, had do reduce from 80MB.

[Anonymous No.2021712]

I accidentaly bought two spools of PETG. Is there any ways to get it to work on a printer without heated plate?

[Anonymous No.2021731]

>>2021660
What microsteps are set on e0

[Anonymous No.2021753]

>>2021711
on my cr10v2 I had to stuff washers under the y axis to actually get it up high enough, otherwise the Z was literally running into its steppers maxing out before ever hitting the plate at max height.

Also I don't have an ender but you do realize your Z isn't even close to its limit switch right? If your extruder is actually at the height of your surface gauge I'd say its probably mounted wrong on the gantry somehow.

[Anonymous No.2021762]

Any CAD frens willing to help me out? I want to upgrade the part cooler on my Chiron with an external 50mm fan, to upgrade the anemic one on the printer right now. No luck on thingiverse, though I did find one or two for smaller fans

[Anonymous No.2021769]

>>2021753
>on my cr10v2 I had to stuff washers
Thanks, I'll try stuffing washers.
Would that yellow spring upgrade help?
>you do realize your Z isn't even close to its limit switch right?
Yes I've raised it about 12mm to fit the dial gauge.

[Anonymous No.2021777]

>>2021566
No
>>2021600
Not an ender

[Anonymous No.2021783]

>>2021712
Glue stick would be my best guess

[Anonymous No.2021785]

>>2021598
>if I get rid of the board and upgrade to SKR or something that it won't be an Ender anymore
That is a good thing

[Anonymous No.2021789]

>>2021610
I have left my Ender 3 printing overnight, and abandoned it for a couple of hours, without dying. You May(TM) be good.
>>2021624
>I'll figure out a way to connect its camera to the Raspberry
Interesting, do tell what you end up with!

[Anonymous No.2021792]

>>2021769
>Would that yellow spring upgrade help?
Although they are a welcome upgrade, they won't help with that particular problem

[Anonymous No.2021798]

>>2021783
Tried that plus hair-spray. Now everything is sticky and smells like hair-spray and the prints still fuck up

[Anonymous No.2021815]

>>2021798
You can clean gluesticc with warm soapy water, hairspray would work with alcohol I guess?
Try glue stick only and a little more squish to get adhesion; which is the problem you have I assume

[Anonymous No.2021826]

bros what happens if you try to cure your IPA that you've washed your prints in
could it cure the resin particulates, so that you could sieve them out and reuse your IPA more?

[Anonymous No.2021843]

>>2021599
If you want an alternative try Onshape or FreeCAD

[Anonymous No.2021849]

>>2021603
>>2021785
Why Klipper and not Marlin? I've been Co sidering running OctoPrint on my PC, which is right next to my printer. So I wouldn't need a Pi thing if I did that. Looks like the Orange Pi is a lot cheaper than the ones recommended by OctoPrint though. Unless I am missing why I would use an Orange Pi?
I'm oddly sentimental and I would feel bad if I changed it too much since my old man got it for me. Hell, I still have the computer he got my parts for 20 years ago.
Say I did upgrade the board though, which stepper drivers are the best?

[Anonymous No.2021850]

Y axis looks much cleaner than X axis. Does my carrigde need adjusting?
I switched to direct drive recently but I didn't adjust jerk, could that be the problem?

[Anonymous No.2021852]

probably a dumb question, but does a corexy build have to be square or can it be rectangular?

[Anonymous No.2021854]

>>2021852
It can be rectangular too.
See E3D Toolchanger.

[Anonymous No.2021861]

>>2021854
cool thanks

[Anonymous No.2021863]

>>2021849
>Why Klipper and not Marlin?
With Klipper, the commands are calculated by the computer (or raspi) and sent one by one in realtime. This means:
>more time precision on movements
>less stuttering on command buffering
>configuration changed without flashing the controller
I have to admit I haven't tried it yet, but it seems mighty tempting. I have to get my hands on an USB-TTL donglethingy so I can flash firmware, so I haven't even upgraded my aging stock firmware.

And yes, that means I don't yet have thermal runaway protection.
>[sweats nervously in argentino]

[Anonymous No.2021865]

>>2021850
Maybe and maybe. Also check for gunk in your rollers.

[Anonymous No.2021868]

>>2021849
>Why Klipper and not Marlin?
Klipper allows far higher speeds and accuracy because the command processing is done off board.
Also because Marlin is a fucking racist that doesn't support linear advance with TMC2208s.

[Anonymous No.2021869]

>>2021863
>>more time precision on movements
>>less stuttering on command buffering
thats a non issue on a slow Cartesian printer, especially running 32bit board
>>configuration changed without flashing the controller
flashing marlin 2.0 takes 20 seconds to compile and 1 second to flash

[Anonymous No.2021872]

>>2021850
How does one even adjust jerk?

[Anonymous No.2021874]

>>2021872
Like this. Although I have no idea what I'm looking at.

[Anonymous No.2021875]

>>2021869
Dunno mate, I'm not evangelizing it. I haven't even tried it, so I can't personally vouch for how much of a difference it makes. But if I can fix shit in software without resorting to buying expensive shit (or buying comparatively inexpensive shit), my fifthworder ass surfing the right end of the Laffer curve will thank it.
>32bit board
Noice, I'm healthily jealous

[Anonymous No.2021901]

>>2021815
I will try with some double sided tape. That stuff is sticker than a Jewish lawyer at an Asbestos convention

[Anonymous No.2021909]

Making a wash/cure station
What's best for reflecting UV around the place?

[Anonymous No.2021916]

>>2021769
>Yes I've raised it about 12mm to fit the dial gauge.
lol bro you need to ditch the dial gauge, its not helping you in this situation. Unless your nozzle already doesn't get to the same level as the plate, but IMO introducing another variable isn't going to help you out in the long run.

[Anonymous No.2021934]

>>2021826
If you expose the resin to UV while it's dissolved it tends to devolve into a weird concoction of gel and glue-like substances. I've heard of people who strain this off with coffee filters and re-use their IPA but I've been putting off trying that until now.

[Anonymous No.2021965]

What's some good retraction settings for a V6 on an Ender 3 Pro?
I did some tuning/testing last night and it looked like 3mm was the best length for me. For speed, I started at 30mm/s and stopped testing when I got to 180mm/s. As far as I could tell, there was no ill effects from having such a quick retraction. Before I left to work, I set up the test for the next parameter, which was "extra restart distance" from 0mm to 5mm. I'm guessing the 0mm will be the best. Then I'll test priming speed starting at 30mm/s and go from there.
Anyways, can you guys post your retraction settings for comparison? I was using TeachingTech's retraction tuning guide if it matters.

[Anonymous No.2021980]

>>2021874
Yeah I mean I have that menu as well, but I don't have the slightest idea about what it all means

[Anonymous No.2021981]

>>2021965
sure, 25mm/s and 2.5to 3mm length, ender 3
i would up speed to 40 to save some print time but my extruder is geared and i bet my ass that acceleration would loose some steps on its way

[Anonymous No.2022011]

Alright lads, stumbled in this website while troubleshooting, good advice, very detailed, and well formatted. Would recommend bookmarking it!

[Anonymous No.2022013]

>>2022011
Forgot the actual link fucking hell I'm retarded
http://projects.ttlexceeded.com/3d_printing.html

[Anonymous No.2022021]

>>2021980
>>2021874
Jerk: acceleration change, probably in mm/s^3

[Anonymous No.2022029]

>>2022021
In 3D-printers jerk is raw mm/s instead of the usual definition from physics.

[Anonymous No.2022037]

>>2021599
SolidWorks

[Anonymous No.2022045]

>>2021981
Yeah 180mm/s seems really fucking high. I should do some testing on something that isn't a tiny little tower. I should have watched it to verify it was actually going super fast.

[Anonymous No.2022066]

i had to replace my oroginal print bed
measured the new one but my prints wont stick
everytime i print a circle the filament doesnt stick
straight lines are okay though
should i return this print bed ?
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2 3 4 5
0 +0.056 +0.053 +0.048 -0.144 +0.045 +0.055
1 +0.056 +0.090 +0.080 +0.073 +0.073 +0.076
2 +0.020 +0.007 +0.060 +0.064 +0.062 +0.068
3 -0.009 +0.022 +0.045 +0.028 +0.038 +0.055
4 -0.024 -0.006 +0.026 +0.011 +0.025 +0.058
5 +0.063 +0.083 +0.042 +0.035 +0.022 +0.068
>'zeroed' before
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1
0 +0.000 -0.007
1 -0.002 +0.001

[Anonymous No.2022067]

>>2022066
autism.

The problem is something you're doing. You didn't get two bad beds in a row.

[Anonymous No.2022075]

>>2022066
i have damaged a print bed, slapped on another bed sticker directly on top, releveled with a sticky note and had zero issue. this is why you shouldn't rely on auto bed leveling to fix everything

[Anonymous No.2022076]

So, if I bought a Prusa instead of an Ender, I would not have to endure these bed-leveling nightmares?
That's what the
>should've bought a Prusa
meme is all about?

[Anonymous No.2022079]

>>2022076
i have an ender3 and have no issues getting things to stick after leveling with paper, upgraded springs, and making sure the cables won't touch the leveling wheels when it's running

[Anonymous No.2022086]

>>2022079
I want a printer that works out of the box and doesn't require any tinkering ever.
If I was rich as fuck I would just hire someone to print my models for me.

[Anonymous No.2022087]

>>2020062
>>2020189
thanks bros shes all good now

[Anonymous No.2022090]

>>2022075
good idea so i dont have to turn the knobs anylonger while its printing for it to stick
>>2022067
but its only my first replacement bed ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Anonymous No.2022093]

>>2022086
>I want a printer that works out of the box and doesn't require any tinkering ever
then why are you on /diy/?

[Anonymous No.2022096]

I bought a dial indicator just to find out that one of the nuts basically does not work.
Fuck Ender 3, it's a piece of shit.

[Anonymous No.2022097]

>>2022093
To make shit.
Not to fix the tools that are supposed to make shit.
Why did you buy an Ender 3 instead of making one?
Why didn't you smelt your own iron ore and forge your own steel?

[Anonymous No.2022101]

>>2022097
>Why did you buy an Ender 3 instead of making one?
because it wouldn't be cost efficient
>Why didn't you smelt your own iron ore and forge your own steel?
same as above

you're not going to find a machine to do everything for you, tools are meant to be worked with. do you throw out everything instead of making repairs?

[Anonymous No.2022105]

>>2022101
>do you throw out everything instead of making repairs?
Most of the shit yes.
I make 18EUR/hr.
It wouldn't be cost efficient to fix it.

[Anonymous No.2022106]

>>2022097
i guess people buy the ender because its cheap
they want to get into a new hobby
dont know mutch about it in the first place
dont want to read too much before they get started
ender gives them the ability to do this
its not that expensive so if it turns out they dont like the hobby they dont burn themselves too much
if you are a pleb and buy a prusa because you fell for the advertisement you probably are going to regret it
imho if you buy an ender to get started with printing you can take all the money you saved from not buying a prusa machine and buy parts to build your own or expand the ender
thats the beauty of it being open source
i hate these apple fetishist like söycucks who walk around telling people who are working on something by themselves and figuring things out for their own learning curve, to throw money at prusa because "if you had bought a prusa printer you would not have these pathetic problems huehuehue"

[Anonymous No.2022107]

>>2022105
>oh no my car won't turn over, better buy a new one

[Anonymous No.2022111]

>>2022107
I want to say that this is my dream, but even if I had the dosh for that I'd probably at least rip open the old one for fun. Was I born in the wrong time?

[Anonymous No.2022117]

>>2022111
There was an interview I read of a married couple who had been together for something like 70 years and when they were asked what the secret to maintaining a loving relationship so long was, they said: "We're from a generation where if something was broken, we'd fix it, not throw it away".

[Anonymous No.2022122]

>>2022107
I said most cases.
In that case, you call a mechanic.
I don't know shit about cars.
>>2022117
Is 4chan infested with commies since Biden won? Work specialization is the most basic tenet of capitalism.

[Anonymous No.2022123]

>>2022122
>There's a hole in my bucket, dear Lisa, dear Lisa...
Fixing things that are broken instead of just getting rid of it and replacing it with something else IS what communists want. You have literally everything backwards.
If fixing/maintaining your tools is "below you", then pay someone else to do it.

[Anonymous No.2022124]

>>2022122
and this is why you aren't /diy/, you should pop the hood and check the battery

[Anonymous No.2022125]

>>2022122
nigga this is diy

[Anonymous No.2022126]

>>2022123
Err, worded that poorly.
Communists want to get rid of what we have and replace it. Non-communists want to actually fix issues with the current system.

[Anonymous No.2022127]

>>2022086
>I want a printer that works out of the box and doesn't require any tinkering ever.
then get MSLA
the worst thing about MSLA is it's boring because so few things can go wrong

[Anonymous No.2022128]

>>2021798
Not all hairspray is created equal. Aquanet in the purple can is amazing for sticking PLA and ABS to a flat glass bed for perfectly smooth bottoms, and it’s almost scent free. I use denatured alcohol in a little spray bottle and paper towels to clean it off. Remove your print surface before spraying so it doesn’t make literally every surface on your printer look like a black couch after one of those creepy pornos.

[Anonymous No.2022132]

>>2022127
>it's boring because so few things can go wrong
Glorious.

[Anonymous No.2022137]

>>2021610
A: renters insurance is like $8/month and would highly recommend it.
B: the bed and nozzle cool down when your print is done so the real danger of a thermal runaway isn’t an issue, it’s just the fans going.
C: The big tree tech SKR mini E3 is worth the cost, comes with thermal runaway protection (though defaults can be a bit too sensitive in a cold garage) and the silent stepper drivers cut the noise level in half. 8/10, would recommend.

[Anonymous No.2022141]

>>2022132
We're on /diy/ after all.

[Anonymous No.2022143]

>>2021610
>Is it safe to leave my Ender 3 printing alone for a long time or should I buy apartment insurance first?
I have never lived somewhere that renters insurance wasn't required.
You should definitely have it.

[Anonymous No.2022149]

What stepper drivers do you guys recommend? What's the deal with a RAMPS board? Do you really need a driver for each motor?

[Anonymous No.2022153]

>>2021865
I tightened all the rollers to more than I was initially comfortable and its much much better.
But now I'm noticing lines crom the edges of the circles to the closest edge. I have no idea what this is called but my closest bet was ghosting and it doesn't look like that

[Anonymous No.2022161]

>>2022149
>What stepper drivers do you guys recommend?
Whatever fancy TMC variants you're willing to afford.
>What's the deal with a RAMPS board?
It's some kinda motherboard you need to DIY your own printer, although alternatives are available. I prefer chink Duet clones.
>Do you really need a driver for each motor?
Yes, including the extruder.

[Anonymous No.2022165]

I spent 160€ on Ender 3, 25€ on glass plate, 25€ on dial indicator that was useless, 10€ on BLTouch that's arriving in a month, that's 220€.
Prusa is 770€ but it comes with 1kg of PLA so that's 750€.
So there's a 530€ gap for
>no more bed leveling
>silence
>automatic turn-off
>magnetic bed
>not having to pull up my ass to mess with SD card any more
If only I wasn't such a cheap skate I would order it immediately.
I guess I'll wait for BLTouch to arrive, hope it fixes what the dial indicator did not, forget batch printing (only small area in the middle can be semi-leveled) and focus primarily on modelling instead of production.

Now I have to calm down, re-level the bed and print one box instead of 8.

[Anonymous No.2022169]

>>2022161
>chink Duet clones
Why Duet and not the bigtreetech GTR?

[Anonymous No.2022175]

>>2022165
also
>twice as fast
because I could print in low quality.
My Ender always shits bricks if you go below standard.

[Anonymous No.2022176]

>>2022169
Because I have experience with Duet and like them, really. Objectively, they're really easy to program, the drivers work great, and they have a good web interface without Octoprint or Pi or whatever else you need. Changing firmware is really, really easy. I've only used proper Duets though the reports I've heard from the chink clones have been great: all the functionality at a fraction of the price. A Duet 2 should be sufficient for everybody in this thread, except maybe me - but then again, nobody in their right mind would ever consider Nema 42's for their home gamer setup.

[Anonymous No.2022178]

>>2022176
>nobody in their right mind
>Nema 42
>Printer
you're cucking yourself hard with that rotor inertia and inductance

[Anonymous No.2022184]

>>2022165
>If only I wasn't such a cheap skate I would order it immediately
For the 530E gap you get:
>ABL
10E
>silence
30-40E for a silent non shit board
>automatic turn-off
10-15E for a relay module or free if you print the button lever system from thingiverse
>not having to pull up my ass to mess with SD card any more
Cost for this one is debatable, it could be just a RPi which is around 25E for an older model or a bit more if you go for a mainboard that comes with integrated WiFi.
Buying and installing all this shit yourself saves you around 400 european pesos.
>but muh prusa quality
It's not that great to justify that big of a price increase. The true price of a Prusa printer is around 350 euros. The rest you pay for the logo so the 50yboy can keep the 3D printing 3D printers meme alive.

[Anonymous No.2022190]

Not sure if this belongs here, /Ohm/ or /EMT, but here goes:
I'm working on a big CNC machine that's heavily dated, and we want to convert it for 3D-printing big stuff. The machine ran, sorta, a decade ago, using servo motors and Electrocraft BRU-200 drives. This gives me two options:
>Yank out the expensive servos and drives, throw in fat steppers, hook up to a 3D-printing motherboard, bob's your uncle
>Somehow find a way to get a 3D-printing board (RAMPS, Duet, whatever) to talk to the servo drives
What would you consider to be the most feasible option? We've gotten the bastard to move agian, but only barely and without the encoders. Is there any easy way to hook up ancient servo drives to modern 3DP boards?

>>2022178
You mustn't be afraid to dream a little bigger, darling.

[Anonymous No.2022192]

Fuck yeah buddy

[Anonymous No.2022194]

>>2022184
This is just the cost of the materials, anon.
Either you consider your time worthless or you enjoy messing around with your printer more than actually printing with it.

[Anonymous No.2022206]

On an altered carbon kick lately.

[Anonymous No.2022208]

>>2022194
I enjoy both, but that's not the point here.
If the Prusa really was the big step forward like the shills here claim it is, then I would have bought one. But it really is not, it's better than an Ender 3 but not by a whole lot, and you can catch up with it with a few upgrades.

And no, my time isn't worthless, but the average wage here is around 450 euros. Unfortunately I'm below average so money isn't something I can just throw away on ebin 3D printerception memes.
Before you ask, no, it's not some south american shithole. It's an EU country.

[Anonymous No.2022211]

What are changing nk BMG clones like any recs?

[Anonymous No.2022213]

>>2022190
>BRU-200
As far as I can tell those can take step/dir input so just hook them up bruh

[Anonymous No.2022216]

>>2022086
Ive bought a few Prenta machines b1. 25 duos. And duo xls. Works just fine most of the time. No problems running over nighters. B1. 25 has never failed me.

[Anonymous No.2022219]

>>2022190
>Is there any easy way to hook up ancient servo drives to modern 3DP boards?
if you have to ask likely not.
Maybe you lucked out and the servo amplifiers have a step input drive mode, but ancient servo means ancient software.
Ages ago ive read a thread of a repraper converting a robot arm to accept stepper inputs
The encodersignal could be 3bit graycode.

if i were you i'd throw them on ebay, chances are someone needs a spare and pay a nice sum
>>2022213
huh, i just read the datasheet and there was no mentioning of pseudo stepper mode

[Anonymous No.2022229]

>Printer arrived
>Shelving hardware I need to clear off my work bench has not
Well, that's annoying.

[Anonymous No.2022234]

>>2022219
Just working of 1min online search. Seems to me those things have a step/dir mode.
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/servo-motors-drives/2806-electrocraft-bru-200-drive-questions.html

[Anonymous No.2022237]

>>2022208
>And no, my time isn't worthless, but the average wage here is around 450 euros. Unfortunately I'm below average so money isn't something I can just throw away on ebin 3D printerception memes.
Fuck, that's rough. Hope you find your way out, either through immigration or a degree.
>Before you ask, no, it's not some south american shithole. It's an EU country.
A few years ago I would've guest you're a fellow Eastern Euro, but you're probably in the Balkans.

[Anonymous No.2022240]

>>2022237
*emigration

[Anonymous No.2022244]

>>2022213
>>2022219
>>2022234
Excuse the mediocre quality (max. file size is 4MB, sadly), but our sparky got the machine moving using some kinda 10V input on an RS232. I'll have to double check with him if that's step/dir mode, and I'll readily admit I'm outta my league here. I might also throw out a post on the reprap forums, it might just help (or not). All that leaves is: how do I hook up that old RS232 to a modern 3D-printing motherboard?

[Anonymous No.2022251]

>>2022244
modern 3D printer boards talk to the stepper drivers with 2 signals, step and direction step/dir for short. If "step" goes from off to on that makes the stepper move one stepp either CW or CCW depending on the on or off state of "direction". Cant hook up RS232 to an existing 3d printer board. step/dir only.

[Anonymous No.2022252]

>>2022244
Do you mean actual RS232 or are you just talking about D-Sub connectors?

[Anonymous No.2022254]

>>2022252
No, if I recall correctly he said actual RS232, where he put 10V on one pin after shorting two others. I'll have to ask for a proper explanation next time I see him.

[Anonymous No.2022256]

>>2022190
2.85mm or 1.75?

[Anonymous No.2022260]

>>2022256
Where we're going, we don't need filament.

[Anonymous No.2022261]

>>2022251
So if the drivers can do step/dir, and they're set to step/dir, and I give them the right signal (presumably -10 to +10V) from an existing 3D-board, this should work. Emphasis on should. Correct?

[Anonymous No.2022267]

>>2022261
Right. Might have to build a litte circuit with optocouplers to go from 0-5V to +-10V but thats trivial. If it only takes Rs232 though it will be harder. In this case maybe oldschool cnc guys can help you.

[Anonymous No.2022272]

>>2022244
>>2022252
thas was pin VCS, takes an analog voltage and drives the motor at a corresponding speed.
from the looks of the datasheet this thing has neither a step pin nor in software configurable inputs.
Quick google search tells me step/linear converters are a thing but you have to do your own digging on that

[Anonymous No.2022275]

>>2022260
Oh fug, we going pellets or regrind?

[Anonymous No.2022281]

>>2022267
Will ask my elechicken to translate optocouplers into something my homo mechanicus brain will understand. If he managed to break into the RS232 with some shorts and a 10V input, we might as well splice the RS232 apart, use the circuit you proposed, and then have the 3D-board output 0-5V. Thanks!

>>2022272
If I can input analog voltage into the servos and it works, and my 3D board can be made to output analog, the gap between the two is mostly bridged. I'll Google step/linear convertors, and I:d like to thank you for your help as well.

>>2022275
Both, depending on the source. Upcycling an old CNC robot into a new 3D-printer that uses recycled prints or shredded PETG bottles is exact kind of stuff that gives the marketing department wet dreams.

[Anonymous No.2022284]

>>2022206
If you cover the holes up with cling wrap/tape/something, you could pour some translucent, colorful resin on the inside to complete the look, maybe even embed LED's around the perimeter to light it up.

[Anonymous No.2022287]

>bed is leveled (i think, maybe not)
>whenever printing have to babystep Z on the first layer down 0.1mm to get it to stick
>after first layer
>have to babystep Z back up 0.1mm otherwise extruder clicks because too close to first layer
>layers beyond 2 dont need adjustment
What am I doing wrong? Am I doing anything wrong? I'm using the standard settings for Cura's standard profile.

[Anonymous No.2022288]

>>2022287
Either increase temp or use hair spray for first layer, see if that fixes it.

[Anonymous No.2022293]

>>2022086
>I want a printer that works out of the box and doesn't require any tinkering ever.
Other than a stratasys with a service plan, there's no such thing. Every printer involves some amount of maintenance or modification over time. Lowest maintenance one I have ever used was a Makergear M3 with a laptop bed. Only needed leveling once every 6 months.

[Anonymous No.2022296]

>>2022293
>laptop
*kapton

[Anonymous No.2022299]

>>2022076
>>2022086
do I hear someone asking about the monoprice mini delta?

auto bed leveling is the fucking jet.

[Anonymous No.2022303]

>>2022076
No the meme is one guy trying to get a rise out of everyone else by posting the same damn thing even when it's long stopped being funny.

But yes you wouldn't have to endure bed leveling nightmares and a lot of other dumb bullshit if you get a Prusa

[Anonymous No.2022306]

>>2022293
Every printer requires maintenance. Everything else is you buying a shitbox SE model and wanting it to be a deluxe model in a different brand.

[Anonymous No.2022338]

>>2022299
Hmm, looks like a nice little printer for small prints.
Why don't they put it in the recommended under $250 list?

[Anonymous No.2022368]

>>2022076
>So, if I bought a Prusa instead of an Ender, I would not have to endure these bed-leveling nightmares?
I say it every time. With bed knob detents, the bed leveling doesn't crawl.
>BED KNOB DETENTS
<E
>D
<
>K
<N
>O
<B
>
<D
>E
<T
>E
<N
>T
<S

[Anonymous No.2022369]

>>2022338
>Why don't they put it in the recommended under $250 list?
Because a delta is not a good first-printer.

[Anonymous No.2022372]

>>2022190
Hey I remember that pic from a few months ago, you're at a university or something, are you?
I'm a bit sad that you haven't turned it on yet, but otoh still happy that you're still at it!

[Anonymous No.2022375]

>>2022190
>You mustn't be afraid to dream a little bigger, darling.
based inception quote

[Anonymous No.2022377]

>>2022076
I've been lurking and posting for months and this is the very first time I'll mention I got a Prusa here. For printer specific things I look else where, for other general tips I come here and never get specific about what I'm using.

[Anonymous No.2022381]

Eurofriends, whence from do you get your resin?

[Anonymous No.2022439]

>>2021874
I honestly have no clue either but I turned the jerk up to 20 on X and Y and the print turned out really well, so I think I'm going to keep it there.

[Anonymous No.2022498]

>>2022288
I'll try 210 and see if that makes a difference.

[Anonymous No.2022521]

>>2022281
>Both, depending on the source. Upcycling an old CNC robot into a new 3D-printer that uses recycled prints or shredded PETG bottles is exact kind of stuff that gives the marketing department wet dreams.
Make sure you wash them first. It gets dirt and debris out of the plastic.

Here is what I would do, take all your recycling and chop it all up, next run it through a water bath or something similar to get all the nasty debris and chemicals out. Then hit it again with another bath, but make sure to shake the recycling to get out any other stuff that may have stuck.

[Anonymous No.2022523]

I'm going to impulse buy an Ender 3 one of these days.

[Anonymous No.2022528]

>>2022244
I have some old Baldor servos and drives and they way they work is they have 2 encoders. One with many pulses and one with only one "home" pulse. You drive them by analog voltage +-10v. they send counting data via SSI. they are kinda dumb and will let you mess things up if whatever is driving them is not paying attention.

Any way to home it runs till it hits a switch then changes direction and stops at the home pulse on the encoder. from there its up to the controller and not the servo drive to keep track of where things are.

In the dive you can tune it just like you can on a 3d printer and you can define what RPM the motor runs at 10V input.

I have enough of them to make 3 LARGE printers but I haven't due to figuring out how to interface them with a dumb stepper controller as they require a smart controller of some kind.

[Anonymous No.2022529]

>>2022523
Do it while your money has any worth.

[Anonymous No.2022531]

>>2021534
which printer is actually more accurate?

how do I get more accurate prints?

[Anonymous No.2022541]

>>2022369
He's right you know. You don't have to assemble it so you don't learn how it goes together. It doesn't need upgrades so at most you put some painters tape down. You don't have to fix it and it prints beautifully out of the box. You don't have to learn to calibrate and tweak and do shit like >>2022287 so aren't forced to learn all the ends and outs of printing. You just hang the spool arm on it and focus on modeling. What's worse is it prints PLA, ABS, PETG and even (sort of) nylon successfully out of the box- without mods! How will you be a 3D print newb if you aren't stepping your hot end and making full metal level bedders. You won't! You'll just be printing, printing, printing and no noob should be just printing. It's not 3D printing without constant fixes and upgrades. Seriously, don't buy a delta. I haven't printed a single calibration print, temperature bridge nor benchy, I've learned literally NOTHING (except how to cold pull because ngl, it did clog once). Anyway, awful printer for nubes, just awful. Steer clear. Seriously, deltas are so bad I'm looking at a larger format delta for my second printer because I'm scared of the "real" 3D printing experience.

[Anonymous No.2022543]

>>2022531
Any of the SLA printers and calibration.

[Anonymous No.2022545]

>>2022529
Yeah, just can't decide if there is an actual use for it though. I do a lot of lost wax casting/jewelry making...seems I can do the same with PLA. What on earth do you people do with this stuff?

[Anonymous No.2022547]

>>2022545
Prototyping products, gifts, trinkets with some sort use.

[Anonymous No.2022549]

>>2022545
printed a mahjong set because i couldn't find ones that fit everything i was looking for

[Anonymous No.2022567]

>>2022549
Smort.

[Anonymous No.2022573]

>>2022545
Name keychains for friends, magnetic sharpie holder, atomizer stand, ant nest, vacuum hose adapter, tube ends for catpole, coin holser for poker, feet for folding table, keychain holder with cocks lol, adjustable supports for kitchen drawers, minature picknic table(since I had it drawn up anyway), clips to hold dowel rods on the edge of the table for puzzles, sink strainer post, clips to replace broken ones for a tablet case, clip to fix refrigerator door, assorted wire clips, clips for fan cage

It's nice not having to search for materials and get out a bunch of tools to fabricate something

[Anonymous No.2022577]

>>2022573
Sounds like I should practice with some 3d software.

[Anonymous No.2022601]

about 1 month into owning this thing. got my enclosure built, printed some stuff, got octopie working along with plugins for hue lights and outlet. now i have the webcam setup. i know its nothing special but i feel like ive accomplished a lot in this past month staring with no knowledge.
thanks for reading my blog.

[Anonymous No.2022602]

>>2022545
For me it's prototyping. Ensuring the parts I design will be functional and without issue before I shell out to get it milled out of billet.

[Anonymous No.2022662]

>>2022521
I don't have to do the recycling process, we've already got a partner that'll give us clean shredded bottles.

[Anonymous No.2022664]

>>2022372
Yeah. It's one of my side projects besides a fulltime teaching job here at uni and having students work on it doesn't exactly speed up the process. We'll keep chipping away at her!

[Anonymous No.2022681]

What the fuck would you need 11 stepper drivers for???
>x, y, dual z = 4
>2 extruder on 2 hotend = 4
>8 total
>even going completely crazy with three extruders on 2 hotends still only = 10 motors

[Anonymous No.2022683]

>>2022541
>so aren't forced to learn all the ends and outs of printing
After bumping my print temp up 5 degrees, I no longer have to adjust the first/second layer while printing. Fuck learning though, amirite?

[Anonymous No.2022685]

>>2022681
Is there a use for a 5-axis 3D printer? Might help with non-planar prints to change the direction that the extruder points. Could probably make your prints twice as strong if you could mix mainly horizontal and mainly vertical layers.

Dual Z means one Z axis for each hotend, right?

[Anonymous No.2022688]

>>2022681
>IDEX
>Rotary
Maybe

[Anonymous No.2022704]

>>2022681
Why do you think the expansion board has 5 thermistor slots? It's obviously meant for toolchanging systems that can easily have 5 different toolheads if not more. And the toolchanger itself needs a driver too.

[Anonymous No.2022731]

>>2022105
Man. 18euro an hour? Rhats like, 30 american.

Cant imagine having to live on that little.

[Anonymous No.2022732]

>>2022731
Haha. These are you bretheren projecting on me:
>>2022137
>>2022143
I own the apartment.

[Anonymous No.2022737]

>>2022681

If you had 4 independent screws on a large bed, dual motors on the X (or Y), and a pair of 3-way extruders, you could hit 12 axes.

But I don't think that's the point of this kind of thing. It's not for any of the "usual" configurations. It's for the weird stuff. Production printers with a gang of hotends, machines with complicated tool changers, experimental shenanigans involving robot arms or extra rotary axes, and etcetera.

Though load of extra thermistors on both it and the expansion board make me think it's intended mostly for having a shitton of hotends, either for the aforementioned ganged configuration or for multi-color/multi-material prints.

[Anonymous No.2022770]

I download this guy's precomposed marlin 2.0.7 and every now and then I get the X axis slamming into its stopper and not stopping when homing. It happens very very rarely and I've always caught it, but I suspect the fw is wack since the switch works as intended 90% of the time.
What's a good source for vanilla marlin for ender 3? I don't really want to spend all that time compiling.

[Anonymous No.2022778]

Try chaos soda today!

[Anonymous No.2022787]

Is a better 3D printer for models still anycubic?

Looking at this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RY6NSL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_GETWMS1R792A4N420W25?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

My budget is less than 500

[Anonymous No.2022788]

>>2022787
I've just got the basic photon and have been printing non stop since I set it up. Not sure how much the upgrades help, cause the miniatures off of it come out wonderful.
>>2022778
Printed on photon. And this picture of a mini. Go check tg 3dpg. Worth your time.

[Anonymous No.2022811]

>>2022770
Everyone gets their marlin from the official marlin github. It's the best and safest source.
>I don't really want to spend all that time compiling.
It takes 30 seconds to compile marlin on a PC from this century.

[Anonymous No.2022815]

>>2021551
nice pube. inb4 all those tabs snap off before it's even in your ass.

[Anonymous No.2022817]

>>2022778
meh. I'll be impressed when you hot glue it.

[Anonymous No.2022820]

>>2022778
It's too smooth, needs more edges, and spikes for choas.

[Anonymous No.2022828]

>>2022820
Agreed. Ive got a bunch of bits i can use for that. It was mostly a just for fun print.
>>2022817
Uh... its a vending machine.

[Anonymous No.2022839]

skr 1.4 turbo and I cant get the fucking marlin to compile for it. it starts spitting error codes in VSC. function call is not allowed in a constant expression and Unable to determine what CMake generator to use. Please install or configure a preferred generator, or update settings.json, your Kit configuration or PATH variable.

i have followed the instructions for it to the letter, but it started having errors the second it was loaded in VSC.
im trying to follow the half retarded guys that skip steps for shit on youtube for this, but i a out of my depth.

[Anonymous No.2022866]

I was levelling the bed of by Mega >ero and now the Z axis calibration is fucked up, 0.00 is like 10 cm over the bed, I have no idea how this happened.
What do?

[Anonymous No.2022869]

Any reason I should not get an Anet A8 Plus? It's cheap and got a big build plate! It's like 140 euro on EU amazon!

[Anonymous No.2022871]

>>2022869
EU ebay*

[Anonymous No.2022874]

>>2022011
I thought you meant 4chan.

[Anonymous No.2022875]

>>2022828
>Uh... its a vending machine.
I fail to see the issue.

[Anonymous No.2022884]

How do I stop my prints from forming a fucking molecular bond with the bed?

I'm not doing anything special, but for some reason I always have the biggest problem getting my prints off the mirror I'm printing on. It's worse on big prints but it happens even on small prints. I've found plenty of tips and tricks to make shit stick better, but I want it to stick worse.

[Anonymous No.2022888]

>>2022884
Raft layers for prints with a large surface area.

[Anonymous No.2022891]

>Get Ender
>Spend two hours assembling it and dicking around with settings
>Print nothing because it's now 1 in the morning
Ah, I've arrived.

[Anonymous No.2022892]

>>2022869
Anet printers are where the house fire memes came from. Buy at your own risk

[Anonymous No.2022896]

>>2022891
>two hours
You have 998 hours left until your first successful print.

[Anonymous No.2022902]

>>2022892
>>2022869
The fire issue is only with the regular A8. Apparently it didn't have any detection for a broken thermistor, so it would just keep infinitely trying to increase the temperature of the hotend if the thermistor failed to detect a temperature change, resulting in the whole thing eventually just melting/burning away. Luckily they fixed that with the A8 Plus so it's no longer a housefire waiting to happen.

In terms of print quality I can't really recommend the A8 Plus though, especially if this is your first printer. Supposedly it's an upgrade from the regular A8 which I never used so I can't tell, but if the Plus is actually better then the A8 must've been shit even without burning down. It's cheap for its size which is the main draw, but the print quality is pretty bad compared to similar-priced smaller printers. If you've got the patience and the know-how to tweak it until it's dialed in just right it's fine, but otherwise it's just not a very good printer.

[Anonymous No.2022903]

>>2022902
The A8's biggest problem affecting print quality was its plastic frame.
But they fixed that in the Plus.

[Anonymous No.2022925]

>>2022884
Are you getting elephant's foot as well? If yes you can try raising the z offset a tad.

[Anonymous No.2022930]

>start 8 hour print
>an hour in my chinkshit hotend fan breaks
fuuuuu
any good replacements for ender 3 fan?

[Anonymous No.2022944]

>>2022902
the thermistor failing is 1 out of like 5 fail modes that set a print on fire.

by far the biggest risk is a bed connector getting crispy and thats where the anet failed, it pushed 20A through a counterfeit chink terminal block.
CtCs also had their bed connector getting lit

[Anonymous No.2022953]

>>2022930
Sunon MF40202V2-1000U-A99

[Anonymous No.2022965]

>>2022884
1. add blue painters tape
2. move print up 3mm and tree support
3. #2 but with raft
4. having a nice fat wasteful 8mm brim i.e. default brim
5. get some bed removal tools
6. let shit cool
7. leverage off (tip don't pull)
8. bottom a non-solid face

Even with the painters tape on borite glass I've had prints seemingly weld themselves to the glass through the tape. Eventually it comes off, sometimes in one piece.

[Anonymous No.2023046]

>>2022944
>a counterfeit chink terminal block
Oh no it's this guy again

[Anonymous No.2023051]

What are the actual differences between the anycubic Mega S and Zero 2.0?

[Anonymous No.2023058]

>>2023046
>denying reality
>pushing 20A peak through knockoff 10A connectors is fine

[Anonymous No.2023063]

>>2023051
I've asked about the Mega Zero 2.0 here more than once. 3dpg consists of no-printer faggots and those who bought an ender but wish they'd bought a prusa. Nobody is going to help you.

[Anonymous No.2023064]

>>2023058
Yes anon it's fake because it's made in China just like the XT60s of the Enders.
I asked you this before and I'll ask you again. Where the fuck do you think the "original" ones are made? Proudly in America?

[Anonymous No.2023066]

fuck autodesk

[Anonymous No.2023074]

>>2023064
Phoenix contact, made in ger
Thats not the point you absolute fucking mongoloid, holy shit.

The Anet is a 12V printer pulling peak 18A on the Heatbed and its notorious for killing the power mosfet.
Those screw terminal or 2.54pitch plugs, EVEN THE GENUIN ONES are typically rated for 10A continuous.
Just by guesstimating they are maxed out from the Bed holding its temperatur, while in the region of 100% overloaded during heatup.
Add some Housedust blown in the enclosure and you got a Housefire.

let me guess smartass, Subscribed to AvE and posting in Powerdrill threads?

[Anonymous No.2023081]

>>2023074
>The Anet is a 12V printer pulling peak 18A on the Heatbed and its notorious for killing the power mosfet.
What? The Anet's heatbed is 1.2 Ohm. That's 10A at most.

[Anonymous No.2023087]

>>2023074
>Thats not the point you absolute fucking mongoloid, holy shit.
No, it really is.
>a counterfeit chink terminal block
A certain connector being undersized doesn't make it counterfeit, unless you were implying that being counterfeit is the cause for which they can't handle the power.
You can blame the chink for cutting costs, man, but stop with that counterfeit crap, it makes no sense.

[Anonymous No.2023096]

>>2023081
>That's 10A at most.
fuck youre right
still 100% maxed out
>>2023087
>it makes no sense
it literally does in the upper range. Talking about internal construction
thickness of the conctacts, force of the springs, contact surface area
all that matters in contact resistance and when any of those parameters is worse than on the OG certified connector, it sure as hell will not perform similar in its maxed out region.

[Anonymous No.2023152]

>>2023096
I think anon is refering to your use of "counterfeit", not your complaint about quality

[Anonymous No.2023154]

>>2023096
It's such a cheap and simple part already I really don't see why even the cheapest of Chinese would bother trying to gut it. Seems much more likely that it just wasn't screwed in properly or maybe some debris got in there. That is the real chinesium- they have the same manufacturing processes as everyone else, they just don't believe in QC for some reason.

[Anonymous No.2023167]

>>2021711
>>2021769
Wtf do you need a dial gauge for? Just get some feeler gauges if it's really that important.

Anyways, if the bed needs to come up in one specific spot, but the spring isn't compressed, bring the rest of the corners down without bottoming them out, and the one corner should be able to be a bit higher in relation to the others since that spring should be compressed now. Otherwise, the entire plate's arm under the bed might be bent. To make this work you'll also need to move your Z limit switch down, I believe it's 2 T-slot screws for the Ender 3, so slightly loosen, move down, and retighten.

[Anonymous No.2023171]

What are your favorite colors of filament to work with?

[Anonymous No.2023174]

For some reason anything I print using the prusa slicer either does not print, or fails. whereas I always get at least halfway decent ones with cura, Im using an ender 5 plus. does anyone know what this might be caused by?

[Anonymous No.2023182]

anyone know how to fix this?

[Anonymous No.2023184]

>>2023182
the little blobs, or zits

[Anonymous No.2023190]

>>2023182
>>2023184
Most likely check your retraction settings.

[Anonymous No.2023229]

>>2023171
Marble is always my go-to. It hides flaws pretty well, and I have a superstition that it fails less often than many colors.

[Anonymous No.2023237]

>>2023171
Gizmodorks gray sparkle. It's gray so it's a good neutral, no problems painting over and it's sparkly so when you just leave it it's not just gray.

[Anonymous No.2023240]

>>2023182
>>2023184
something something Z seam.

>>2023229
brand? the one I see on amazon seems underwhelming (white with specks)

[Anonymous No.2023244]

>>2023240
This one is 3D Solutech, from when I first tried the majesty that is 80 micron layer height. Other brands are generally fine though. I've had a couple white label rolls and one from Amolen and they're all about the same. Don't expect much other than white or gray with specks though; you won't get nice striations in more than one axis with FDM.

[Anonymous No.2023250]

>>2021711
The other three corners.

[Anonymous No.2023257]

>>2021711
raise your z-stop and loosen the bed springs

[Anonymous No.2023272]

probably a dumb question but what fan blows more air a 3010 radial or a 4010 radial? im talking the winsinn fans

[Anonymous No.2023274]

>>2022086
>If I was rich as fuck I would just hire someone to print my models for me.
I used treatstock.com before I bought my printers.

[Anonymous No.2023283]

>>2023244
I wonder how it would look with the non-linear printing method. Or does that only effect the surface?

[Anonymous No.2023285]

>>2023174
Hard to say. I'd slice the same thing in both and then manually compare the gcode. You can use an only difference checker to make it easy, although you might have to rearrange the headers on the files to check.

[Anonymous No.2023290]

>>2023229
>>2023244
this anon gets it, my local place sells "reprapper" filament and the marble looks great. otherwise i usually print in black/white/grey

[Anonymous No.2023300]

>>2023272
whichever one you're looking at has more CFM, consult the datasheet

[Anonymous No.2023324]

>need to cancel print so I can snug up my nozzle
>Display screen is frozen, so power off
>Now none of my axis will move for auto home or manually
What in the fuck? Even power cycling doesn't do anything.

[Anonymous No.2023365]

>>2023324
Have you tried unplugging it and plugging it back in?

[Anonymous No.2023367]

Is golden keyboard anon around or did he kys himself?

[Anonymous No.2023368]

>>2021843
>>2022037
Thanks, I'll cheek into those.

[Anonymous No.2023371]

>>2021543
I expected Fusion360 to be most like AutoCAD so I learned it. I didn't really think about the whole cloud and we own everything issues until recently as I make more stuff, however I don't expect or intend to make money modelling so I might as well give the shit away.

So I use F360 and meshmixer but really should be / should have probably been using SolidWorks and Blender. Now I don't really want to learn something new again- although it's looking more and more like if I actually want a marmot I'm going to have to choke down the giant cock that will be learning Blender.

[Anonymous No.2023408]

>>2021317
No it was a PLA clog I cold pulled with nylon. The melting point of nylon is higher so you use the melting point of nylon to load up the nozzle, let it cool completely then as it reheats pull gently. it will hit the PLA melt point then release the nylon before it actually gets to a printable nylon temp- as in you get more PLA garbage out because your pulling tool doesn't melt in the process.

[Anonymous No.2023412]

print something
level bed
print something
level bed
print something
level bed
its all so tiresome anons

[Anonymous No.2023413]

Hi friends. I got an Ender 3 Pro earlier this week and have had a lot of fun fucking with it every day after work. Now that I have a weekend, however, I'd like to get some settings dialed in and fix some of the issues that I have found. I have quite a few upgrades for my machine, but haven't installed everything because I want to get some of the basics down so I can appreciate the upgrades even more.
My biggest issue right now seems to be bed leveling. I am using some G-code that takes the print head to each corner of the bed and lowers it to print height. I then use a sheet of printer paper to feel for some resistance. I can usually get all of my corners to feel exactly the same, but then when the printer head gets to the middle it's either really tight or I feel no resistance at all. When it's tight, I can still move the paper around but I cannot get it back under the nozzle if I slide it out. After almost 45 minutes of doing this I'll usually get "close enough" and try a print. Some of my prints done this way have turned out really nicely, others have not. I'm not sure bed leveling is the cause or not, but it's at the top of my list. I also have been running my bed leveling both before and after prints to check for drift. One time it seemed to stay really level, the rest of the time it feels like everything shifted randomly. I haven't noticed any trends yet but woudn't even know how to check them. I have had upgraded springs on the bed for two days and they don't seem to help this issue. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a better way to get level? I do remove my magnetic build sheet after most prints to take off the item, could putting it on slightly differently have this much of an effect on my bed level and prints?

[Anonymous No.2023427]

>>2023413
>remove my magnetic build sheet after most prints
I just peel it off halfway and that keeps it mostly level.
>some G-code
Does it do every corner sequentially, or do two pairs of opposite corners? You should be levelling like doing up a car's wheel nuts.
>45 minutes
jesus anon. I'm using a stock e3 pro with stoxk springs and levelling takes a minute at most.

[Anonymous No.2023433]

>>2023427
The G-Code I have takes the print head to the front left corner, back left, back right, front right, then middle. Then it goes to the back left corner, followed by the back right, front right, and then ends where it started at the front left. I suppose that'd be kind of sequential. I have thought about doing it on opposite corners, but I haven't seen that mentioned on any tutorial that I have watched though so I figured maybe it was a retarded idea. Maybe the guys who I have been watching are fellow idiots.
After a quick google search I haven't found any leveling G-code that takes it to opposite corners. Does anyone have a link or a lead I can follow? I'd really like to get this process down better so that I can spend more time printing and less time autistically fiddling with my knobs. I have a nice new PEI coated spring steel bed that I want to try out, but I'm not going to let myself until I know for sure I'm not going to fuck it up by dragging my nozzle across it or melting a hole in the middle.

[Anonymous No.2023437]

>>2023433
I just turn the motors off and push it around by hand. Not too fast though, because the motors act like generators

[Anonymous No.2023453]

>>2023433
you know .gcode is just a text file right?

[Anonymous No.2023462]

>>2023413
Well, I'm not sure what would make it change from tight to not tight in the center other than you inconsistently leveling the bed. Make sure you're leveling at print temp for both the bed and nozzle. Besides that, your aluminum portion of the bed might just not be all that flat, and the magnetic build plate is just conforming to it.

My friend bought an Ender 3 recently, and I helped him set it up and level it. The base aluminum bed was so hopelessly unflat he had to switch to the glass plate rather than the magnetic build sheet, and good printing from there on out.

[Anonymous No.2023464]

>>2023462
>Make sure you're leveling at print temp for both the bed and nozzle
Crap, I forgot about that too.

[Anonymous No.2023473]

>>2023462
>Make sure you're leveling at print temp for both the bed and nozzle.
does this actually change much? The plate wouldn't be any less level expanded assuming it was heated uniformly. It'd just mean the print head gets closer to the bed. Right?

[Anonymous No.2023499]

>>2021965
>I was using TeachingTech's retraction tuning guide if it matters.
Watch out for the units on that page.

[Anonymous No.2023509]

Okay, that's not great, but not as disastrous as I was expecting.

[Anonymous No.2023530]

>>2019746
Pic related is my approach to pliers holders, they are parametric.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4577390

[Anonymous No.2023537]

>>2023509
that looks pretty damn disastrous my friend What happened?

[Anonymous No.2023539]

>>2023537
>What happened?
Hell if I know. It was carving through its own extrusions for those messed up layers and the piece is about 4mm short, so I guess it just didn't rise enough for those sections? I didn't see any parts skipping and those don't look far enough apart to be caused by a roller, but I'm going to check there first.

[Anonymous No.2023541]

>>2022770
Maybe its one of those situations where your last move was relative and you do a new move, expecting it to be absolute but it ends up being relative so things just go wonky.
Like yesterday I was testing feed rates and I was moving 50 down the X axis while extruding 50mm of filament. After 3 tests, I would use the LCD controls to move back across the board to X=20 and continue my testing. Well, one time I got lazy and used the move negative X buttons in Pronterface to move back to X=20. When I did my next move+extrusion, the extruder pulled the filament out of the hotend, which promptly clogged because I was running it hot. What a pain in the ass.
Anyways, maybe it's a similar situation for you.

[Anonymous No.2023552]

Noticed funny noises while my CE3 pro zoomed around. How fucked am I? Are the wheels fubar, or is this much shredding relatively normal? I adjusted the tensions a bit on the tight side but the axis were still able to move by gravity...

[Anonymous No.2023555]

>>2023539
If it's an ender, check the Z rollers, they might be too tight (especially on the right side)

[Anonymous No.2023565]

>>2023555
Yeah, it's a 3. I'll apply a wrench tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.2023586]

Last thread I recommended a Direct Drive adaptor to an anon.
Ive changed to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3816051/comments
You lose 1cm of build area on the X carrigde and some Z, easily fixed if you run a pancake stepper and BMG.
The results on this adapter is ever so slightly better but I consider the 1cm loss to be insignificant for the benefit it adds.
I've got my BMG and Nema 17 in the mail just to regain the space.

Anyway, I'm getting these blobs that look like over extrusion but my esteps are set perfectly.
Any ideas what to check next?

[Anonymous No.2023607]

but really, fuck autodesk

[Anonymous No.2023696]

How do I check if I have thermal runaway protection enabled?
Creality 4.2.7 running marlin 2.0.6

[Anonymous No.2023708]

>>2021534
Where can I find anime models to print?
Even if I have to use blender to fix them for printing.

[Anonymous No.2023789]

>>2023427
>>2023437
>>2023462
I switched to another set of upgraded springs last night. The ones I had before were yellow and a good amount stiffer than the stock ones. I had also ordered some blue ones even stiffer than that but I didn't receive them in the mail until after I had installed some yellow ones so I hadn't tried them yet. I did have to raise my z-stop some to make them work, but I leveled my bed as best as I could and have done 5 prints since then without adjusting anything and am pretty happy with my results. I doubt it's perfect, but now I'm on to fixing other problems with my prints. I'll post some pictures later.
After fucking with all of that nonsense for so long, however, I decided that I'm getting a BLTouch. I already know I'm going to be swapping my print surface in the future so I'm just going to bite the bullet and make my life easier in the future. Pic related is the one I ordered, but since then I've dug into it a bit more and realized that there are multiple versions of the BLTouch and that I might need a new mainboard to make it work. I'm fine with buying one, as obviously I have way too much money I am willing to throw at this thing, but I don't know which boards would be the best bang for my buck. Just digging in slightly I've seen people recommend the Creality/Ender branded V4.2.2.7 mainboard as well as an SKR mini E3. Do any of you have any input? Did I fuck up and order the wrong BLTouch? My printer is an Ender 3 Pro, not a V2. At least I don't think it is.

[Anonymous No.2023825]

>>2022884
PETG bonds with glass f that is the filament you are using.

[Anonymous No.2023827]

>>2023552
looks like dust to me
If the rollers have wear-scars just change them, they are wear and tear items
>>2023789
>regular e3p
you'll need a 27pin adapter to hook it up, its a 5€ item
>>2023708
if there aren't any on thingiverse check cults3d, myminifactory or ask on the tabletop-3dp general, they print that stuff

in other news, some threads ago some anon asked about the speeddrive dd-extruder from thing I, I'm currently tuning it but probably throw it out again since it takes away a lot of build volume

[Anonymous No.2023834]

>>2023789
the creality silent boards are forever cucked by using lower power stepper drives (higher RDSon) than the skr e3.
They do this to save 4$ but charge you more than BTT.
This can and will give you extrusion issues at some point.
literally pay more, get less.
The e3 mini is unbeatable in price/perf if you order directly from China

[Anonymous No.2023851]

Is it worth it using Průša slicer over Cura for a non-průša printer?

[Anonymous No.2023868]

>>2023834
There are so many boards out there, people should get away from shitty ones like the e3 mini. It doesn't even have a BLTouch port! But it does have a Z-probe port (wow). TMC2208 - vs- TMC2225 on the 4.2.7 Creality board. We'll, the e3 Mini does have a TFT port if you want a color display. But other than that, I feel like the e3 Mini is a downgrade from the latest Creality board.
For a hobby where people spend literal hours designing and making things, it surprises me that so many people go for boards that are the same shape as the stock board on their Creality printers. Yeah, it might be easier to hook everything up, but why gimp yourself to such a tiny board in a tiny enclosure? Just design and make a better enclosure and get a great board like >>2022681. It's only $70 for both boards.

[Anonymous No.2023883]

>>2023696
Go to line 571 in configuration.h and check there. It should be enabled by default.

[Anonymous No.2023887]

>>2023586
Start your troubleshooting here : https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/blobs-and-zits/

[Anonymous No.2023893]

>>2023154
>It's such a cheap and simple part already I really don't see why even the cheapest of Chinese would bother trying to gut it
You don't know chinks.

[Anonymous No.2023912]

>>2023868
Now I'm confused. What's the difference between a BLTouch port and a Z-probe port? Can a BLTouch only use one of those?
>>2023827
Does the factory board just not have a port for a BLTouch to plug into? I've seen a couple videos where people use an adapter but I am still confused as to how that works.
I guess it would help to know what board I already have in the machine. When my current print finishes I will check it out; the board number or model should be fairly easily visible, right?

[Anonymous No.2023924]

>>2023868
>I feel like the e3 Mini is a downgrade from the latest Creality board.
are you trolling him on purpose or is your knowledge of the subject really this small?
Dont bother replying, i will not waste my evening arguing with about shit not affecting me

[Anonymous No.2023940]

Any idea what might be causing this shitty surface? I'm printing PLA at 200C and am wondering if my thermistor has gone bad and the real temperature is way above 200 since the machine has had a harder time maintaining hotend temperature recently.
Might also explain why I've had smoke coming out of the hotend at these mild temperatures and filament turning black and bubbling.

[Anonymous No.2023970]

>>2023912
A Z-probe is just an endstop switch activated by a mechanical probe, whereas the BLTouch is a mechanical probe activated by a servo. The BLTouch is more complicated so it requires more pins to make it work. Z-probe can be accurate but one of the problems is remembering to retract it or deploy it when necessary. I think on boards without the BLTouch port you have to use an extra board connected to it, I think it's called a Pin 27 board. I'm not entirely sure.
I'm using a Z-probe right now. It's just my Z-axis endstop switch mounted to my hotend carriage. I have to manually deploy the probe and stow it, otherwise the hotend will either crash into the print bed or the probe gets all fucked up. Im upgrading to a BLTouch though and it should be here in a couple of days.
The deploying/stowing problem with the Z-probe is easily solved by adding some code to the start GCode. Just a pause with a message to deploy and another one to stow after the homing is complete.
Pretty sure the BLTouch is superior to a Z-probe considering it has its own port. But it is more expensive so some people go the other route. But to have a port dedicated to the Z-probe seems stupid to me since it's literally just the Z endstop switch. I mean, it might be a good idea to have both just to have that extra safety to make sure your hotend doesn't crash into the bed. That has happened to me a few times since moving my endstop switch.

[Anonymous No.2023977]

>>2023924
It's how I feel, I'm not arguing shit. My opinion is based on this small comparison. I didn't get too deep into it, maybe one has a better processor or better memory, dunno because I'm not going with either board.

[Anonymous No.2024002]

>>2023412
I haven't leveled my bed in months. Enough hairspray will make anything stick.

[Anonymous No.2024011]

>>2023412
???
I got some of the upgraded springs for my ender and I haven't leveled it since I got it 3 months ago. I print nearly every day for my side business.

[Anonymous No.2024067]

im wiring up the skr 1.4 turbo boards, and its got 2 pin endstops, and the new skr board has 3 pins for the endstops. which side do i plug it in at? the eft 2 pins or right 2 pins?

[Anonymous No.2024072]

>>2022368
Just get the heavy ass springs. The kit with Capricorn tubing and spare fittings is like $15 and your bed level pretty much indefinitely if you’re careful.

[Anonymous No.2024077]

Is there anyway to fix a print having its corners come off the build plate while its still printing? I have a Prusa Mk3s which I just assembled and I also just switched off PLA to PETG. I have been having a horiffic time tuning settings to get the PETG to stick for the first layer as it keeps coming off the powdercoated build tray. I found an online profile someone was using and started using that and tweaking from there and have been having better luck, but I still get issues with corners curling off the build tray and my printer keeps trying to print despite two corners usually popping off on larger builds. So either is there a way or place to look for getting everything to stick and stay stuck for the whole time, but also is there a way to fix a corner coming up while its still building?

[Anonymous No.2024080]

>>2023940
Try setting the nozzle temp to 150c or so and extruding manually to see if it'll go. If the thermistor really has gone bad then that just sounds like it's a time bomb of melted wires or worse.

The thing about PLA is it doesn't really 'burn' i.e. get darker until you actually start burning it with a flame, so you'd have no way of knowing if the nozzle really was running way hotter.

[Anonymous No.2024142]

Need some help from people smarter than I am; I bought this extruder/hotend combo a while ago and I never got around to installing it until now. I have no fucking I idea how this goes together. Where do I put the fans and what kind of shroud would work with this?

[Anonymous No.2024175]

[Anonymous No.2024178]

[Anonymous No.2024179]

[Anonymous No.2024182]

[Anonymous No.2024188]

[Anonymous No.2024191]

[Anonymous No.2024194]

[Anonymous No.2024201]

>>2024178
Neat. Is that Jackie, or just painted to look like him?

[Anonymous No.2024203]

>>2024080
Alright, I'll give it a try, what's a temperature where extruding PLA becomes completely impossible? I wanna try finding how much temperature deviation there is.

[Anonymous No.2024205]

>>2024178
where the hell did you find a jackie? the shit is dope.

he was best girl.

[Anonymous No.2024210]

>>2024203
I don't think PLA should flow at 100C.

Apparently most PLA has a glass transition point of 60-65C

[Anonymous No.2024216]

>>2024203
>>2024210
I was able to extrude at indicated temperatures as low as 120 C by pushing on the filament with pliers, at 150 C the extrusion was effortless, I'm pretty sure now that the thermistor is fucked. I ordered a new one.

[Anonymous No.2024218]

>>2024077
If a corner cocks up during printing it's usually because a draft came in from somewhere, either from the environment or possibly from your hotend fan. If you plan to print PETG a lot I'd recommend printing a duct for your fan that sucks air up out of the hotend instead of blowing into it- I just did that for one of my Enders and haven't seen a peely corner since. Also you can try moving the printer somewhere a bit warmer, avoid opening and closing windows and doors around it while it's printing, and in the long run you might even consider building a simple enclosure to keep the heat in.

[Anonymous No.2024229]

guys where or how can i create a firmware.cur file for an skr1.4 turbo?

[Anonymous No.2024257]

>>2024229
it never came with an sd card and the fucking chinks on tech support wont even send me a link for hte files. i just want this thing working.

[Anonymous No.2024290]

I'm trying to build Marlin for a CR-10 V3 with an SKR 1.4 Turbo, I can get the firmware to load and communicate over serial, but the OEM display is not working. I have the board powered by the PSU not USB, and I have connected the two display cables "correctly" as far as I can tell. Keys in the plugs line up and EXP1 goes to EXP1 and likewise EXP2. I think something is going on with the creality module's wiring not being compatible with REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER. That, or the display is cooked from the shorted out OEM board.

[Anonymous No.2024328]

What do you guys do to avoid your supports bonding to the print? They're still fragile enough that with enough force they can come off but they don't strip off as easily as I see videos do it. For reference I'm using an out-of-the-box creality ender 3 v2 pro with hatchbox ABS and Cura slicer with pre-gen supports

[Anonymous No.2024344]

>>2024067

[Anonymous No.2024351]

>>2024142
You want a single large fan in the front of it there mounted with those two empty holes, no shroud needed. That would be my guess. It's either that or a blower fan goes on it with a duct that points as a part cooler. What brand is it?

[Anonymous No.2024355]

>>2024229
>>2024257
What model of printer do you have?

[Anonymous No.2024356]

>>2024142
Consult manufacturer documentation.

[Anonymous No.2024363]

>>2024351
It's a sanbros bmg+mosquito clone. I think they're the only ones making it so far. There is a stepper motor on the back so I can't mount the plate there. Mounting the fan on the front would be blocked by the plate.

[Anonymous No.2024369]

>>2024355
cr10 v1.

I >>2024344
groovy, i appreciate it.

[Anonymous No.2024390]

>>2024356
I can't even message the seller because the new messaging system on Ali express is chinked up and doesn't work

[Anonymous No.2024396]

>have huge clog in my hotend
>won't cold pull
>apparently leaking for weeks without me noticing
>burnt together
>finally decide to take it apart and blast it with a torch to get it unclogged
>one of the heating element screws strips
well just fuck everything
>no similar-sized imperial allen key to jam into it to get it to turn
>no screw extractor kit
>no dremel
>no OTHER SCREW TO REPLACE IT WITH

[Anonymous No.2024427]

>>2024396
Welcome to the hobby
You never have enough screws in the right size or aspirin.

[Anonymous No.2024457]

>>2024363
Little fan maybe?

[Anonymous No.2024474]

>>2023509
>We Have Such Sights To Show
You opened the box.

[Anonymous No.2024480]

[Anonymous No.2024587]

>>2024229
>firmware.cur
thats what the printer echos you after flashing
you put firmware.bin on the card

[Anonymous No.2024609]

>>2024457
I saw that picture too and thought the same, but the bracket gets in the way. Those fuckers told me it would be able to mount a fan before aliexpress broke the messaging system.

[Anonymous No.2024621]

>>2024390
Well why'd you buy a chinksy system?
you get what you pay for y'know

[Anonymous No.2024638]

Do I need to do anything special to print with a 0.6mm stainless steel nozzle? Is a good layer height 0.4mm? I'm trying for speed with this one. What about extrusion thickness? I can go up to 0.48mm line width, right? I'm asking because I tried to prints, both on a raft and they both failed. Just suddenly, the stepper for the extruder started clicking. I bumped my temperature to 220/225 but that didn't help. Raised my Z offset, also didn't help. I was able to get it printing regularly again by manually pushing filament through while it was printing but it soon started clicking again. Maybe I need to tighten everything down again just to be certain. If there was a gap between the heat break and the nozzle, could that cause clicks and a failed print?

[Anonymous No.2024646]

MinTemp is set to 5C or 41F? Really?

I went to print something last night, and the printer is out in the garage. I had to hit the Thermistors with a hair dryer to heat it past MinTemp to start the heat up cycle.
If the thermistor is failing its going to show lower than that.

[Anonymous No.2024673]

>>2024621
Because it was cool. Never saw a combined bmg extruder with a mosquito hotend before

[Anonymous No.2024686]

>>2024646
I had to change the settings in my firmware so I could have my printer in my chest freezer. It takes a little bit of work but you can do it too.

[Anonymous No.2024695]

>>2024686
Why? Are you trying to print ice sculptures?

[Anonymous No.2024702]

>>2024396
Hello I hate your picture pls delete

[Anonymous No.2024705]

>>2024194
That's pretty nice, anon.

Now post the one where she is capture by goblins. You know what I'm talking about.

[Anonymous No.2024751]

>>2023509
what WERE you expecting?

[Anonymous No.2024769]

>>2024587
its not flashing at all. i have to pull the endstops out to get it to light the fuck up, and the screen still dont work.

[Anonymous No.2024780]

>>2024328
Tree supports are fucking magical.

[Anonymous No.2024845]

Guy hacked together a cheap filament diameter sensor:
https://hackaday.com/2021/02/07/simple-sensor-makes-filament-measurements-a-snap/

Pretty neat. Maybe in the future you can have that mounted on the hotend and adjust extrusion in real-time to compensate for cheap uneven filament.

[Anonymous No.2024882]

>>2024845
Sounds like a very doable and at the same time useful feature.

[Anonymous No.2025016]

>>2024705
dunno

[Anonymous No.2025054]

>>2024609
tly rike dis

[Anonymous No.2025086]

>>2024751
Zits everywhere and crooked layers followed by my printer dropping its spaghetti. Also, my nozzle would be clogged for my next print. I'm a retard that doesn't normally do things like this, so the fact that I mostly seem to just have one issue is something of a relief.

[Anonymous No.2025093]

>>2025054
Definitely possible, but looks like I can only get 1 screw with this mounting plate they sell. I managed to message them on the aliexpress app instead, so let's see how that goes... lol

[Anonymous No.2025103]

>>2025093
wut da hell anon u think with ur head rike rinao
it not so hald
u need holre? u make
too many folr da extla holre? u ignole da holre
see? it so easy for u~

[Anonymous No.2025158]

>Printing a 75mm brim on a small part to hopefully peel off some left over scraps after a babystepping mishap made a larger print nearly impossible to remove

Insane or brilliant?

[Anonymous No.2025194]

>>2025158
they are not mutually exclusive

[Anonymous No.2025206]

What's the best ender 3 duct? Don't care if 4010, 4020 or 5015

[Anonymous No.2025220]

>>2025206
Best in terms of what? Airflow, noise, overhang performance, high temperature performance?

[Anonymous No.2025233]

Tfw I just found out that you can save stl from fusion 360 without export. I have probably wasted like 20 hours total waiting for exports of stl's

[Anonymous No.2025245]

>>2025233
Yep. Fusion's cloud services are complete ass.

[Anonymous No.2025254]

>>2025233
I would like to laugh at you but instead I'm just cringing at the thought of having to use Fusion cloud services that much.

[Anonymous No.2025257]

>>2025206
I thought the Satsana was pretty slick until I printed it and it didn't fit, piece of shit. Now I'm printing "CR-10 Heavy Duty customisable modular e3D V6 mount Volcano 5015 ABL". Well, I would be if the first two attempts didn't fail, piece of shit printer....

[Anonymous No.2025267]

Has anyone here used Hatchbox PLA? Compared to monoprice PLA the hatchbox stuff is almost like putty, it's so soft on the roll and printing it it LOVES to warp and pull from the build plate. I've never had as much adhesion problems as this. I'm thinking this stuff is just garbage compared to Monoprice garbage.

[Anonymous No.2025272]

>>2025267
I used the Hatchbox black, and I didn't have any problems with it. Probably only printed like 20m worth of stuff though. Been using JAYO white PLA, I love this stuff, gone through about 1/2 a roll. Might just be the color though. I got some glow-in-the-dark blue by JAYO and it seems good, other than the print failing after a while. Pretty sure that's my fault as I think my heatbreak is loose. Gonna try again hopefully tonight after tightening everything up.

[Anonymous No.2025276]

>>2025267
Their ABS has been absolute garbage in the past few months too. I'm not going to buy their crap anymore.

[Anonymous No.2025277]

>>2025267
Maybe it's worth reconsidering what temps you're using for your hotend and bed.

[Anonymous No.2025284]

New Thread
>>2025283