/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.2014146]

Do they make an adapter to plug a dryer into a normal outlet? Would that even be safe?

[Anonymous No.2014148]

>>2014146
i'd be shocked to find out that there isn't a very, very good reason a 3 phase plug like that won't fit into a standard 110v outlet

[Anonymous No.2014150]

>>2014146
>I want to plug a 240-volt 30-amp device into a 120-volt 20-amp socket/circuit.
No. You're an idiot

[Anonymous No.2014154]

>>2014150
>just swap that breaker out for a 15amp one and you're gtg!

[Anonymous No.2014155]

>>2014148
Dryers are single phase fucktard.

[Anonymous No.2014164]

>>2014146

Murricans need special outlets for that?

[Anonymous No.2014174]

>>2014155
hey, at least i'm not the one trying to connect a 240v device to a 120v socket.

[Anonymous No.2014182]

>>2014146
You are literally right next to the fucking panel. Add a goddamn dryer outlet if you need it. Or better yet, get an electrician because you'll kill yourself and/or burn the house down. With the power off.

[Anonymous No.2014193]

Haha I love threads like these. Really puts into perspective some of the fucking service calls I go out to. Cheers mate

[Anonymous No.2014196]

>>2014148
>i'd be shocked
oh carlos

[Anonymous No.2014199]

>>2014146
Your welcome OP.

[Anonymous No.2014202]

>>2014199
Thank you I am so tired of worthless trolls.

[Anonymous No.2014205]

>>2014199
That's a 50A twistlock bud

[Anonymous No.2014206]

>>2014146
No a normal outlet is rated for 120 volts and a dryer outlet is rated for 240 volts. They're shaped differently for a reason.

If you need the other, you need an electrician to install it properly.

[Anonymous No.2014211]

>>2014146
NO. Wrong voltage. Don't even fuck with trying lest ye fry your dryer.

[Anonymous No.2014213]

>>2014202
Except he was trolling you because that adapter will not magically change voltages!

If you bother to read how to connect dryers there's plenty of info. There are a variety of 240V receptacle/plug options but you need a 240v single phase outlet. PLEASE don't rely on this board for more than enough info to get started because between the majority of idiots and a fair share of trolls you can fuck shit up trusting them.

[Anonymous No.2014217]

>>2014146
OP, you can adapt from a dryer socket to a regular outlet, but not the reverse. Dryers use 240volt electricity, you can't get that out of a regular outlet. In other words, it isn't the plug shape not matching up that is the problem; the kind of power coming out is the problem.

This is like trying to plug your dryer into a USB port; even if you had an adapter that would let you plug it in, it still wouldn't work.

[Anonymous No.2014218]

>>2014182
I fucking missed that the panel is right there and he's tryna spend $100 on a fire hazard instead of $30 on the appropriate equipment

[Anonymous No.2014318]

>>2014148
Lol 3 phase

[Anonymous No.2014348]

>>2014146
I made a little diagram for you, OP.

GOD SPEED.

[Anonymous No.2014349]

>>2014348
that filename lol

[Anonymous No.2014372]

>>2014146
have an electrician put in an outlet. its the only way. there are no adapters or work arounds

[Anonymous No.2014436]

>>2014146
Fuck your dumb op

[Anonymous No.2014448]

>>2014348
The best part about this pic is it's absolutely valid.
At least from my mostly uninformed point of view.
But based on what little I do understand about this topic, this seems like it would work.

[Anonymous No.2014450]

>>2014348
that look of concern on the 120v sockets
and the look of utter contempt from the upside down chinky 240v socket.

[Anonymous No.2014903]

>>2014164
Way it works is they send a 240v line to the house. This is used to power the heavy stuff ac heater washing drying units stuff like that. Then they use a center tap to split a single 240 to 120v lines which is for basically anything else. It's why the outlet is shaped liked this so morons like op won't try and do what he's attempting.

[Anonymous No.2014906]

>thread that reveals Americans still build their houses out of wood
>thread that shows American power sucks
>they still use imperial
>aluminium wiring in houses

Think about how much human progress has been set back by this shithole.

Thanks for winning ww2 from the evil Germans and Japanese.

[Anonymous No.2014907]

>>2014155
>Dryers are single phase fucktard.
Sort of correct, and yet still completely missing the issue at hand.

[Anonymous No.2014920]

>>2014348
oh no

[Anonymous No.2014931]

>>2014146
Just find the breaker that outlet is connected onto, open up the panel and swap the white wire from the neutral bar to a breaker on the opposite side. Trust me I'm a dolphin.

[Anonymous No.2014944]

>>2014146
Well if you knew anything about wiring you could make a cheater cord but only for an outlet in a properly wired modern kitchen. Duplex outlets since 1970 or so are wired split top and bottom between each leg. The top is fed from one leg and the bottom is fed from the other. So you could make a Y cord that would plug into one duplex outlet and end with your 240v receptacle for your dryer.

[Anonymous No.2014950]

>>2014944
What he said >>2014348
I'm just pointing out that top and bottom outlets in any kitchen receptacle are more than likely wired this way. You can tell if the little shorting straps are broken off on the side of the receptacle and there are two black wires going to each one.

[Anonymous No.2014959]

>>2014146
Anon. That plug requires: +120, -120, and the ground. The receptacle only has one of the 120 sources, a neutral, and a ground.

There is NO adapter available to magically create power lines at the receptacle. You have to either install your own receptacle, or do what the other anon suggested and burn your house down and kill whoever touches your device.

The jerry rigged things anons have suggested above will compromise the "equipment grounding" and "system grounding" satiation and probably end up making the chassis of the machine powered to 240 (or 120 if you super fuckup somehow) and will kill you if you somehow ground yourself while touching the machine (like touching another machine that's grounded at the same time).

[Anonymous No.2015012]

>>2014906
obsessed.

[Anonymous No.2015019]

>>2015012
Obsessed

[Anonymous No.2015038]

>>2014944
>>2014950
Are you both retarded? The break off tab is for switched outlets and phases aren't mixed in an outlet unless it's 240v. I hope you're trolling and not really this dum

[Anonymous No.2015130]

>>2015038
You may be technically correct, but you will still run into cases where its different hot legs on top and bottom in a single outlet in real houses. There's one in my kitchen. The tabs are broken and its red wire to the top half and black wire to the bottom half.

[Anonymous No.2015131]

>>2015130
addendum: But you're right that those guys are still retarded; even if you made a y-shaped cable to connect to both hot legs in that situation, you'd only be looking at 15-20A and not enough to run a dryer.

[Anonymous No.2015631]

Check out an RV store, they have adaptors for 50amp to 20amp. Dont do it though

[Anonymous No.2016414]

If you have to ask, call an electrician. You need a dedicated 30A circuit installed. You will also need to replace that dryer cord with a code compliant 4 prong 30A cord.

[Anonymous No.2016687]

>>2014448
It won't because breakers that are horizontally next to each other are the same phase, he needs to use breakers that are vertically next to each other

[Anonymous No.2016690]

>>2014199
doesn't look like it would fit

[Anonymous No.2016873]

>>2014202
Don’t do this. Just buy the right outlet. You are about to plug-in a 20 amp or even 30 amp plug into a NEMA 5-15 receptacle which is only rated for up to 15 A. Just get a new outlet.

[Anonymous No.2016924]

The wires behind the wall should be rated for the job as well as the outlet and breaker.
>>2014148
>shocked
haahah

[Anonymous No.2016927]

>>2015130
>There's one in my kitchen. The tabs are broken and its red wire to the top half
That's the hot wire FROM A SWITCH you idiot.

[Anonymous No.2016938]

>>2016927
No you absolute moron, it's a receptacle has the top and bottom outlets powered from different legs from the breaker box. 12/3 romex enters the outlet box, the red goes to one hot terminal, the black to another hot terminal, and the tab is broken between them.
There's 240v between the two hots. And 120v between each of them and neutral.

From inspectapedia: "A split-wired receptacle [electrical outlet] is a duplex [two openings for plugs] electrical receptacle that has been converted functionally into two single, receptacles that are individually partly or completely electrically independent. Each receptacle opening of the pair is individually supplied with electricity by its own electrical circuit and fuse or circuit- breaker.

Thus there is one electrical circuit for each individual plug-receptacle opening in the individual duplex electrical outlet.

By providing two power sources at one duplex electrical receptacle, split-wired receptacles permit the user to plug-in two power-hungry electrical devices at the same location without overloading and thus tripping a circuit breaker or blowing a fuse as might happen if the same two power-hungry devices were operated simultaneously on a single circuit.

[Imagine trying to simultaneously operate both a large electric toaster and a microwave on the same kitchen circuit.]

In completely electrically-independent split-wired receptacles, each receptacle also has its own independent neutral wire and possibly ground wire back to the electric panel. In a multi-wired or shared-neutral receptacle, a single neutral wire is shared by both of the independently-powered receptacles."

It's in NEC 210.4

[Anonymous No.2017486]

Just dont.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiwWaIvIeao

[Anonymous No.2017621]

>>2016873
It's not nema 5-15.

[Anonymous No.2017670]

Imagine having gimped household items that don't just take 240v and then doing the mental gymnastics required to say "This is normal, make all houses like this" and requiring two standards then whenever someone tells you this is retarded you say "Muh safety" and ignore the fact that your wood and cardboard house is full of fucking wirenuts and no fuses.

[Anonymous No.2017712]

>>2017670
Also, why do you obsess over us so much? We don't think about you at all.

[Anonymous No.2017735]

>>2017670
Most loads are DC dingus.

[Anonymous No.2017774]

>>2014906
Nice to see we live in your head rent free lmao

[Anonymous No.2017805]

>>2014348
very cool

[Anonymous No.2018961]

>>2014202
cool it with the racism

[Anonymous No.2018984]

>>2014146
No
Don't even think about it

[Anonymous No.2019106]

>>2014906
>>thread that reveals Americans still build their houses out of wood
We didn't burn and chop down all our forests trying to build a navy to keep our colonies
>>thread that shows American power sucks
We rarely die trying to plug our kettles in
>>they still use imperial
It got us to the moon, when are you landing there?
>>aluminium wiring in houses
Not since the 70's

Tell me more about how much rent we pay in your head? Oh now I remember.... zero.

[Anonymous No.2019113]

>>2014348

I MAY OR MAY NOT have done this at least once, and it's perfectly fine when done properly...at least from a technical standpoint. I would be astounded if it wasn't against code and/or straight-up illegal in most places, though. Mind, also, that you should not be bonding ground/neutral like that. With limited exception, the only place that should ever happen is at the main service entrance.

[Anonymous No.2019118]

>>2019113

ALSO, if you have one end plugged in, the appliance plugged in, and the other end loose, the loose end effectively becomes a death cable. Avoid this situation when possible. Ideally, avoid it by just installing the right plug. Even MORE ideally, have someone else do it for you.

[Anonymous No.2019119]

>another episode of:
>americans and their toy voltage

[Anonymous No.2019394]

>>2014146
I mean even if you split it all open and wire it up your dryer isn’t going to work. It’ll only be able to power their motor or the heater, not both at the same time. Regular outlets are 120 but the dryer needs 240 to run both halves of the unit.
*source I’m an appliance repairman

[Anonymous No.2019661]

>>2014146
I have a dryer plug just like that but its dead

[Anonymous No.2019682]

What the fuck is wrong with am*r*cans?
Why not just have proper voltages in your homes?

[Anonymous No.2019687]

>>2014146
The universal adapter, just line up the holes and whack away.

[Anonymous No.2019696]

>>2014148
Not 3 phase, but yeah op is maximum dumb

[Anonymous No.2019697]

>>2014199
That's a 120V twist lock (rated at 30A likely but they go to 50 so I might be wrong)

Not the same as a 240

[Anonymous No.2019700]

>>2014348
I mean TECHNICALLY.

but yeah op will kill himself with that

[Anonymous No.2019703]

>>2019119
Do you know why eurotards adopted 50hz?

When the French engineers first imported the first euro generators from the USA they got scared of the speed at full speed and they cranked them down ~80%

So basically you eurotards have a lasting legacy of your scared bitch status

[Anonymous No.2019706]

>>2019703
Note: Cranked them down to ~80%, not by 80%

[Anonymous No.2019708]

>>2019703
That's completely retarded.
50Hz in Europe was introduced by a German company.

[Anonymous No.2019711]

>>2019708
No, it was adopted after the first generators in Paris were installed.

[Anonymous No.2019713]

>>2019711
Source: my ass

There are a tons of retarded theories why America choose 60 and Europe 50Hz. What we do know is that Westinghouse set the 60Hz standard and AEG the 50Hz one.

[Anonymous No.2019731]

>>2019713
In 1878 the Paris Exposition had exhibitions of powered light using a dynamo, this was repeated in the 1889 Paris World Fair. But in the world fair they used 40hz. Westinghouse was known to have an exhibition there and considering they had already electrified Great Barrington, Ma using 100V 60hz (stepped down from 500V grid power).

The world fair inspired the 1891 International Electrotechnical Exhibition in Frankfurt. Where they did the same exhibition. AEG noticed the flickering of the light and went with 50hz.

So seems I was definitely wrong, it wasn't 80%, it was 66% then the Germans had the balls to turn it back up. Funny thing though, Great Barrington was lit by Siemens generators, meaning either Westinghouse disregarded the specification of the generators or more likely (considering the time), a maximum wasn't specified

But still, the French are pussies

[Anonymous No.2019744]

>>2019731
>But still, the French are pussies
No eurofag would disagree with that.
They're your oldest allies.

[Anonymous No.2019757]

>>2019744
I never said I dislike having a pussy as a friend, pussies make great friends.

But them being pussies is irrefutable.

[Anonymous No.2019764]

>>2014155
Dryers are split phase, friendo

[Anonymous No.2019768]

>>2014959
>pic
This is the kind of horsehit they're actually having us do in my mechatronics program though

[Anonymous No.2019913]

>>2019764
split phase is single phase power retard

[NetaAnon No.2020266]

>>2014213
It will work, it'll just draw way way more current and trip the breaker trying to accelerate the motor. Then OP just needs a bigger breaker, then when he runs the dryer it will burn his house down and dry the clothes.

[NetaAnon No.2020271]

>>2016687
No man, left side is one leg of 120V, right side is the other. Left and right voltages are 180 degrees out from each other. Check it with a voltmeter. Measure AC from left to right will give you 240V. Measuring AC from two breakers vertically aligned will read 0 volts. Well, maybe a few millivolts accounting for impedance of the breakers.

[Anonymous No.2020276]

>>2019768
Meh. it's hard to teach "mechatronics" if your students aren't already mech/elec engineers with decent comp sci. Your classes are probably just teaching you to be good automation equipment salesmen who can set everything up.

[Anonymous No.2020507]

>>2014348
It's easier at that point to just hook up a cord direct to your breaker panel and run it temp it the dryer.

[Anonymous No.2020515]

>>2020271
It has nothing to do with left side or right side (it ain't the Twix factory). It alternates legs on each side, you want two breakers either adjacent or at least of opposing even/odd (depending on how the panel is numbered).

- Main -

1 | 2
2 | 1
1 | 2
2 | 1
1 | 2
2 | 1
etc

[Anonymous No.2020523]

>>2017735

I weep for the species.

[NetaAnon No.2020903]

>>2020515
Jesus I'm retarded. You're 100% correct. I just put in 240 breaker too. Sometimes the brain farts and it comes out as a post.

[Anonymous No.2021579]

>>2014146
Range and oven display models at the store use 120v to 240v cheater plugs just to run the basic functions. They're placed into a demo mode or have their elements disabled. You would never be able to run the appliance.


>>2014164
American dryers are a lot bigger and use a lot more power. Most dryers are still the old school resistive heating style, heat pumps are still new. An American dryer plug is rated for 240v 30A and will do that continuously because it has thicc wire feeding it and a dedicated breaker.

[Anonymous No.2021582]

>>2014146
the cords exist but youre question is... will the washer run on 120V at 15amps? or even 20? answer is no. They need 240V. You need to change circuits and upgrade it to a 240V circuit.

[Anonymous No.2021585]

>>2020515
lmao i saw the same thing - it's a pic for how to burn your house down indeed if you are doing a multiwire branch

[Anonymous No.2021817]

>>2021579
>Cheater plugs
A 30A version of these are common in the RV world.
They aren't wired in any way that powers the 220~240 stuff. Appliances don't need to be disabled.

The 110 hot leg is split to both hot legs of the 220 outlet, neutral to neutral, ground to ground. This will allow all the 110 functions to work fine but the 220 elements will have no potential between the ends and so no current.

Most dryers don't have a neutral pin so a safe cheater plug isn't possible. In theory you could just put 110 across the the 220 leads and not use the heating element at all (you'll pop the breaker as soon as you try), the motor will run slow but clothes will tumble and get air. It might even be possible to rewire the motor to 110v so you get full speed (depending on model), but you'll never be able to use the heater element on 110v x 15A.

Tangent- 110v x 20A dryers do exist. They're hard to find because there isn't much demand. There isn't much demand because they don't work very well. Without a 220v heating element, you are just as well if not better drying outside on a clothes line.
...
If you're really stuck with 110v (e.g. you're renting), go with propane (you'll have to DIY that too). If you own the place, install a 220 outlet.

You
Cheap
Bastard

[Anonymous No.2022081]

>>2014150

[Anonymous No.2022084]

>>2014348
>file name
Lost hard kek

[Anonymous No.2022088]

>>2019687
Funny story, knew a guy that was a total Tard, had Tard strength to match and forced a 240v plug into a 480volt receptacle. That was a fun day

[Anonymous No.2022145]

>>2022081
I actually have an outlet for my little buzz box AC welder wired up this way, works great and I'm the only one who knows it's wired that way so whoever uses it when I move out is in for a surprise

[Anonymous No.2024014]

>>2022081
>that picture
I'm more disturbed by the 210.5 VAC than I am about the NEMA 5-15 abuse. That's a 12% drop when only 3% is allowed.

[Anonymous No.2024648]

>>2024014
>allowed
What are you gonna do call the power company and complain? Some places just get lower voltages than others.

[Anonymous No.2024652]

>>2014146
Cut off the plug and replace it with pic related

[Anonymous No.2024680]

>>2020271
>>2020515
Have you never looked inside a panel before? Look at the busbars.

--MAIN--

A | A
B | B
A | A
B | B
A | A
B | B

[Anonymous No.2024721]

>>2024680
...515 here.. Yes, last time over 15 years ago. I remembered the zigzag pattern but the contact implication eluded my slowly deteriorating brain. My point was the alternating vertical contacts, but you are correct that the horizontal is mirrored, not Inverted as I had it. Thank you for the correction.

[Anonymous No.2024722]

>>2022145
Just because it's a higher voltage, doesn't mean the wires in the wall are going to be rated for 30 amps.
The breaker will trip if it's works since it's most likely a 15 or 20;amp breaker, or you'll burn your house down.

[Anonymous No.2024724]

>>2024648
>What are you gonna do call the power company and complain?
Yes.

[Anonymous No.2024725]

>>2024722
NM-B is a 90 C conductor running in at 60 C. He might cook of the PVC outer jacket, but the conductors themselves should be fine. 14 AWG is good for 25 amps and 12 AWG is good for 30 amps; however, the code restricts you to 15 and 20 amps respectively. It really helps when you are running THHN in conduit for fill and maximum number of current carrying conductors calculations.

[Anonymous No.2024730]

>>2024725
That's what I'm saying the insulation isn't rated for that heat.
He'll have exposed, possibly glowing, wires in his walls.

[Anonymous No.2024735]

>>2024730
>He'll have exposed, possibly glowing, wires in his walls.
The guy is a total retard, but he won't have glowing conductors because the individual conductors have 90 C insulation. The outer jacket may degrade, but the conductors themselves should be fine.

[Anonymous No.2024850]

>>2024721
I'm honestly glad you got that part right at least, a lot don't.

[Anonymous No.2025319]

>>2024735
It's 14/2 so there's that. 20 amp breaker. 20 amp receptacle and plug. Welder is rated to draw 25 but I only use it for 20 minutes at a time (I bypassed the thermal overload because it kept shutting off after 10 minutes of welding).