qtddtot

[Anonymous No.1937209]

stupid QUESTIONS THAT DONT DESERVE THEIR OWN THREAD:
can I use a tire compressor to power an airbrush? 2 problems: power and pressure. for power I suppose I can just use a regular 12V battery instead of buying a car, but what about the pressure? from what I've seen on google all I need to do is find a few screws and that's it. is it really that simple to drop 300PSI to 20PSI? just a few screws loose?

[Anonymous No.1937212]

You can buy an airbrush set with a tiny compressor for like 30$. Which is less than what your weird setup would end up costing.

[Anonymous No.1937214]

>>1937209
>20psi
just put the hose in your mouth and blow

[Anonymous No.1937230]

>>1937212
I'm trying to find one locally and I have onlineshoppingophobia because of import taxes. pic related is from local "ebay" and together they are less than 20 burger dollars. in the end I'll probably end up buying from amazon or ebay. such is life in a corrupted shithole
>>1937214
thanks, satan

[Anonymous No.1937381]

I've been noticing cracks like these on some doorways in my home. There are others on doorways in basement on the same side of the house. Are these due to settlement or is something in the foundation fucking up?

[Anonymous No.1937388]

>>1937381
Shitty drywall placement. Don't put seams at doors. Put a horseshoe shaped piece over the door. Regular door use will cause what you have otherwise.

[Anonymous No.1937440]

>>1937209
What's the most solitary trade? I really don't like working in a team so I'd like to know which ones id be left alone in

[Anonymous No.1937483]

>>1937209
i bought a metal pot at a thrift store for 3 dollars. it has a tapered opening, and i want to bend it somehow to give it a pour spout. what is the best way of going about this? i tried clamping it in a vice and bending it with my hands but it makes the spout too wide and creates a bump where the end of the grip was. this makes the liquid diverge and reconverge just before exiting the container, which is not a huge problem but it's not what i want, especially when pouring hot wax, which is what ill be using the pot for

[Anonymous No.1937484]

>>1937483
forgot pic. here is a profile and bird's eye drawing of the pot. red is what i want it to look like

[Anonymous No.1937489]

I r OP and I keep getting "!"s (yous) in hopes of getting an answer to the compressor mystery. stahp posting by quoting muh post plox

[Anonymous No.1937595]

>>1937483
>>1937484
bump

[Anonymous No.1937602]

>>1937489
You can but it you need a storage tank. The tiny compressor will make it sputter as it builds pressure and drops off. Mich better to get an air compressor meant for tools

[Anonymous No.1937669]

somebody, please tell me what the name of the business/industry that I should contact if I'm looking for custom made wooden plates.

A lumber mill? A woodworking shop? It's a dead-simple wooden plate. no bells or whistles. 6 inches or so across. I need bulk quantities. Every one I reach out to gives me the e-mail equivalent of deer in headlights.

I can easily buy this shit from china but I'm trying to support my god damn country. Thanks

[Anonymous No.1937722]

>>1937209
Use a nozzle. Decreases pressure and increases kinetic energy

[Anonymous No.1937737]

>>1937669
your local hardware store ..or your local furniture store that cuts wood to dimension

[Anonymous No.1937808]

I'm trying to bolt a swing arm tire mount to the back of my truck, what's the best way to run a bolt through the metal body and keep it secure? Something like a metal screw/lag bolt into the metal or running it all the way through and putting a nut on the bolt in the back?

[Anonymous No.1937898]

Anyone know what this is

[Anonymous No.1937899]

>>1937898
or the metal wire sticking out of this old pipe

[Anonymous No.1937902]

>>1937595
I'd start by putting a dowel rod or piece of rebar in there, and levering against the bottom
>>1937898
If the internal round part is threaded, I'd guess part of a pulley puller
>>1937899
Not a wire, but a smaller pipe, usually added for an icemaker

[Anonymous No.1937932]

Hello /out/!
I’m in the process of buying a half acre property, completely undeveloped. Was hoping for more info like pic related. Many thanks!

[Anonymous No.1937933]

>>1937932
Fuck, I’m on the wrong board.
Oh well, I’m retarded as usual.

[Anonymous No.1938011]

The new home only has cables sticking out from the ceiling, I was going to install some lights.
Since I know fuckall where the cables go, I bought myself a Truvo, problem is, it beeps almost along the complete area where I wanted to drill.
How do I make sure I dont go through some wiring? Obviously I turned the electricity off beforehand.

[Anonymous No.1938124]

I have a bag of these stepper motor controllers and am trying to get rid of them. I was just going to throw them up on ebay but I cant find any model numbers or anything to give info as to their specs. Does anyone recognize them or any basic markings I am missing?

[Anonymous No.1938176]

So my wife and I just moved into a shit box of a trailer and I'm needing to redo the flooring and paint everything.

What are the easiest and most efficient ways to try and paint a ceiling? There was water damage, the roof got repaired, but there's spots all over and it's not aesthetic. What is the best way to fill holes in the wall? I tried basically wood putty but it didn't blend in much because the holes were deep. Also any pointers for laying flooring? I already bought the foam and we got the interlocking wooden boards type to use. Thankfully everything came up sort of easy with a sawzall. Do I need to remove the wooden boards on the sides of the base that the carpet was nailed too? I already just nailed the nails down so that way no one got hurt. I just want this to be done so I can get back to work while also having it look good and be done right so we can sell this eventually.

[Anonymous No.1938208]

>>1937898
That is a part of a puller assembly. Used to pull shit off of shafts.

[Anonymous No.1938210]

>>1937899
That is to tap of the main water source for like a humidifier and shit like that.

[Anonymous No.1938214]

>>1938208
>>1938210
>>1937902
thanks bros. my uncles toolbin from the 70s is filled with hundred of tools and random parts and pieces and im trying to sort and organize it

[Anonymous No.1938251]

I've got a chip in an heirloom desk it's very small but I don't want it to grow. I'm going to put some filler over it as a temp fix. Anyway it looks like laminate that is laid over the wood, is that a normal thing to do? Keep in mind it's definitely solid wood and made in the 60s. Why would they use laminate?

[Anonymous No.1938285]

>>1938011
Calibrate the Detector while holding it in the air away from the wall.
Turn the electricity back on again.
Look for the strongest signal in relation the area.
Move the device over the same spot multiple times.
Sometimes it helps to touch the wall with your flat hand while detecting.

[Anonymous No.1938290]

>>1938251
Looks like veneer, you could cut of a small section and add another piece, but impossible to match it really well. Could also completely remove the top and redo. But my advice would be to mix experiment with some wood filler until you can get the colour close then stitck in in the chip.

[Anonymous No.1938320]

Bought a house that is about 60 yrs old, working on fixing a bunch of shit that previous people have done in very bubble gummed manner. I'm trying to get an electrician to come out for a safety check because I don't know fuck all, now I'm hearing a soft rhythmic buzzing. It's accompanied by my lights dimming a bit. Seems like maybe something is pulling a lot of power, but in a steady on and off rhythm... How concerned do you anons think I need to be?

[Anonymous No.1938426]

>>1938214
Good job keeping them useful. I'll be in here about once a day or so, so keep the questions coming

[Anonymous No.1938458]

is there a way to get these little nails out of the frame without fucking up the canvas?

[Anonymous No.1938469]

Could someone be so kind as to tell me what type of window glazing I need to replace this old as hell glazing from a aluminum window?

[Anonymous No.1938515]

>>1938320

Are you doing laundry and/or running a dishwasher?

If no, if you have a ball compass and any idea where the buzzing is coming from, I'd be using that to try to hunt down where the current draw is.

You could also just go to the breaker box and turn off circuits one at a time until the buzzing and light dimming stops, just to isolate what circuit it's on.

[Anonymous No.1938592]

>>1938320that would be an appliance kicking on, my bet would be on the heater/ac

[Anonymous No.1938597]

>>1937669
Find a local contractor or woodworker that's willing to do custom work

[Anonymous No.1938679]

Lads,
Please tell me why the Wera wrenches are better than these hex wrenches that cost less than half the price.

[Anonymous No.1938707]

>>1938679
Yes anon, they are better. Working in heavy industry I have never stripped a bolt with Wera, I have with others. They also sell a version with a ball retainer on the long end which can be very useful for getting bolts into tight spots.

[Anonymous No.1938721]

>>1937209
tire compressor gives pressure pulses, no good for painting
get a spare wheel from scrapyard and use as tank
they can hold 2-3 bar without adverse effects, for airbrush full size tire will last you long time
buy schrader valve adaptor and put on hose long enough to be comfortable with tire on ground/under/behind desk
inflate with hand/foot/electric/penis pump and paint away

[Anonymous No.1938744]

>>1937212
These tiny ones suck.
I own one of them, it's not actualy powerfull enough to spray anything that's more viscous than water.
Hooking up the airbrush to my actual compressor was a day and night difference as that thing can actualy flow enough air.
>>1937209
You could use an empty propane bottle, a shraeder valve, a pressure regulator and some fittings to build yourself a pretty basic compressor.
However keep in mind that the propane bottle needs to be flushed or you might build a bomb.

Alternatively, buy a proper small compressor with a tank and pressure regulator.
Doesn't need to be fancy, they are all overpowered for your purpose anyway.
Then buy an adapter for your airbrush and you're good to go.

[Anonymous No.1938745]

>>1938176
bump

[Anonymous No.1938746]

>>1938744
>I own one of them, it's not actualy powerfull enough to spray anything that's more viscous than water.
So what? You should thin the paint a lot in any case. Pressure is plenty for those guns with tiny nozzles.

[Anonymous No.1938769]

>>1938746
To thin down paint to the viscosity of water, you need a thinner less viscous than water.
Mine never moved enough air to work properly when I thinned down the paint with water, never got it to flow properly.
Only when I went to thinning it in a 50/50 mix with acetone it kind of worked, but that's terrible for the airbrush.
With the proper compressor It's a whole different story, now that thing works perfectly with the exact same paint thinned down with water to a milk-like viscosity.

[Anonymous No.1938783]

>>1938769
>To thin down paint to the viscosity of water, you need a thinner less viscous than water.
No, you don't. You just need a paint that properly dissolves in water - not a big problem since most paints are water-based these days.
I've been using my airbrush with water-thinned normal acrylic paint from tubes and it works without problems.

[Anonymous No.1938888]

Is there any good literature on Japanese shrine making? I am going to build a small one, and I'd like to do a bit of prereading first.
An issue I havent worked out yet is how I can set up the supports without pouring cement. It has to be supported by wooden beams due to some building restrictions.

[Anonymous No.1938933]

For electricians:
I was installing smart switches. My last box had power then once I opened it up it didn't. None of the fuses popped & flipping them had no effect. I couldn't find a tripped gfci. How would I fix this other than crawling the attic and dropping a new line or splicing?

[Anonymous No.1938949]

>>1938783
I used thinned down Revell Aquacolor, wich is an acrylic waterbased paint for brush and airbrush application.
It works perfectly fine with the larger compressor, but not the tiny one.
The issue with the small compressor wasn't the pressure, it was the volume.
The small compressor couldn't deliver enough air to keep the pressure up.
With the larger compressor I have no issues keeping the pressure up at whatever pressure I chose.

[Anonymous No.1939020]

I've got a phone battery with a broken ribbon cable. Ive already replaced the battery with the new one, but I was wondering if theres a way to use the old one as a portable battery. I wouldnt expect it to be as easy as soldering a usb connector to it, and frankly ive never worked with lithium batteries before so i want to make sure i dont end up blowing myself up. Its a bm49

[Anonymous No.1939072]

>>1937602
>>1937722
just found about comrpessor regulators and gonna slap one onto OP pic related. hopefully it works
>>1938721
this one sounds intriguing, but what is pressure pulse and why does ti happen?
>>1938744
or this

so far it seems that the air reservoir and pressure are the problem

[Anonymous No.1939076]

>>1939020
You'd need a way to charge that battery, and a way to output power to USB which requires 5V so you'd need a boost converter. There are combo modules that do this.
google "Lipo charger boost".

[Anonymous No.1939085]

>>1939076
battery won't be a problem since I have some sort of "battery simulator": plug in, set voltage, set +/-, done. phone is kinda broken atm so imma draw this thing. just gotta find out how to connect the wires when I disassemble the compressor's power input

[Anonymous No.1939088]

>>1939085
are you pretending to be me or youre just piggybacking my comment?

[Anonymous No.1939090]

>>1939088
oh wait I'm a fucking retard I'm the compressor guy I need sleep, imma delete that now

[Anonymous No.1939123]

>>1939072
You still need a tank for the regulator to work.
>what is pressure pulse and why does ti happen?
A pump needs to pull air in before it can pump it through so air is only flowing half the time.

[Anonymous No.1939134]

Can I use a diamond hole bit to drill through a broken steel stud?

Typical story.. tried drilling through broken stud. Broke pilot bit in the middle of the stud. Have broken 3 other bits trying to get through it. Using a Cobalt bit, it has held up but only managed to get about an eighth of an inch down over several hours of drilling (yes, with oil, tried varying speeds). That bit has probably dulled but I don't know a good way to sharpen Cobalt bits, or if the time spent is even worth it.

My thought is even though these are made for glass, diamond should just chew through 304 steel just fine without the drama of going through the M2 HSS. If I can get all the way through, the core will just fall out and I can can try the use a screw extractor on the shell, or if that fails, drill, tap, and helicoil (basically, the original plan before busting the bit).

Has anyone pulled this off before/will it work, or would it be a waste of time and money?

[Anonymous No.1939141]

>>1937209
I hung up a 100lb punching bag from my ceiling using a 1.5x3" in between two ceiling joints. when hit, it shakes my whole garage, will that cause any damage to my roofing?

[Anonymous No.1939147]

>>1938426
Thanks bro, next time I go over there Ill take a bunch of photos of questiionable items and post them here as one image

[Anonymous No.1939158]

>>1937483
What kind of metal is it? You could use a raising technique to create a spout if the metal is thick enough. The idea is to lay the lip of the pot flat on an anvil or anvil shaped object and spread the metal with a raising hammer (ball pein works too)

[Anonymous No.1939163]

I need a big combo pack of drill bits. What should I be looking for?

[Anonymous No.1939271]

How is an exterior wall finished? What goes on after the sheathing? Mud finish then paint?

How can I tell if an electrical box can hold a ceiling fan’s weight without looking in the crawl space? If I’m not a total retard can I trust myself to install a fan without it falling on me a month later? I’m scared of that happening without getting a sparky to do it.

Is there a good way to learn handyman skills without taking on projects that are too big and thus fucking up my house? I’d like to learn to do more but I don’t want to take on unnecessary projects that I won’t finish and will have to pay for someone to fix.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1939275]

>>1939163
Do you want drill bits for making holes? Or driver bits for driving screws? Or both?

I like the Milwaukee bits a lot, but all of the big name power tool brand bits are straight like DeWalt, Bosch, Makita, look for an assortment on sale at Home Depot or Lowe’s. You can often find some big DeWalt sets for real cheap and they’re pretty good, pic related was $25 at Lowe’s.

There are better brands but it would be a waste of money unless you know exactly what you want/need.

[Anonymous No.1939281]

>>1939275
Bits for drilling holes. All of mine are either dull or broken and just a mish mash of what in the tool box. I've only really just learned somewhat how to drill.

[Anonymous No.1939286]

>>1937209
Sure, just make an air tank from an old LP tank then use a proper air regulator to drop psi to airbrush levels.

[Anonymous No.1939290]

>>1937440
Commercial HVAC after you learn enough to have your own business. My ex-con (weed, no victims) bro makes bank servicing commercial chillers because pajeets refuse to upgrade to new systems giving him a permanent revenue stream since they must have working coolers to protect their stock. He doesn't do residential except for friends and a lot of his work is for cash so he declares what he wants to.

[Anonymous No.1939295]

>>1937808
Visit forums like Pirate 4x4 (by far the best) for many examples of tire mounting. Best way is through bolts to a load spreader like some flat bar rather than washers but someone has already solved your problem for any truck you may own so go there and check out pics. The place is a fucking truck tech goldmine, shop tech goldmine, and general fountain of useful info.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forums/

Anti-seize your tire bolt/nut/whatever for easy removal in future instead of fighting dry threads.

[Anonymous No.1939297]

>>1937898
Part of a puller but save it and collect pullers and parts because they can be used on combination, especially if it's marked OTC which used to be great pullers before they got Chinked. I hunt old pullers and have a good collection. When ya need one nothing else will do.

[Anonymous No.1939300]

>>1937899
It is actually copper tubing. To learn a bit I suggest taking the thing apart since it's junk. An often ignored fundamental to learning is the baby steps because so many people are dickheads to noobs. That copper tube is sealed by a compression ferrule beneath the nut. Also take apart the valve so you get an idea of what's inside.

[Anonymous No.1939301]

>>1938679
Far better steel means they're less likely to fail and they lead hard lives. Cheap hex wrenches can be quite the asspain when they strip, twist or bend. Over time the cost difference is trivial but the results are more than worth it.

[Anonymous No.1939310]

>>1938721
This is long proven if you've the room for the wheel vs a tank.

I would use a locking air chuck, a nipple, a length of hose, a nipple to mate hose and your pressure regulator, and a chuck to connect your pressure regulator to your air brush. Your regulator ensures steady pressure. You can use a tee fitting to leave your compressor connected to your new system and run one hose from the tee to your locking air chuck while the other connects to the regulator. Learn the plumbing fitting options where you are.
Any auto store salesperson, mechanic etc can help you figure it out and once you know the basics compressed air is your friend.

[Anonymous No.1939313]

>>1938888
You can build it on a wooden skid base.

[Anonymous No.1939317]

>>1939134
Solid carbide is the ticket. https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/cutting-tools/screw-drills-and-stellite-drills/solid-carbide-screw-drills/f/1226

[Anonymous No.1939329]

>>1937209
I sprayed carburetor cleaner into the intake and past the throttle plate of pic related (it was Idling), and now it wont start. What do you think I messed up?

[Anonymous No.1939355]

>>1939329

Most chainsaws don't use a standard float carb because of the angles they're used at, they have a diaphragm based pulse carb. The carb cleaner probably melted the diaphragm.

[Anonymous No.1939365]

>>1939329
Remove and inspect the spark plug. Check for spark. Next time don't do that.

[Anonymous No.1939376]

>>1939134
The diamond grit is in fact harder than the steel, but its bond to the hole saw is not good and it will not actually bore like you want it to. It simply wont work

The other anon is right, buy a solid carbide spade drill. Do not buy a twist drill, buy a spade bit. Run it at 1500-2000 RPM dry. It will slowly but surely eat away the material, whether its tool steel or just work hardened steel, doesnt matter. Itll be slow and controlled.
I have a few on hand for when I need to "drill out" broken taps, expensive but the exact right tool.

[Anonymous No.1939384]

>>1939376

Okay.

I'm just nervous about that because I know carbide is brittle despite being insanely hard and all I have is a handheld drill. If I break a carbide bit in a cylinder head it will be a $250 mistake.

[Anonymous No.1939401]

>>1939384
Understandable
That is exactly why you buy the spade bit and not a carbide twist drill. With the spade bit it just slowly chops away the material, it doesnt have sharp brittle edges that really dig in and pull itself into the material.
It has thick blunt straight edges that slowly shave off small amounts of material at a time.

If for some reason you did manage to break it, it wouldnt be embedded deep and you would be able to get it out.
Like i said, they exist for this kind of stuff.

[Anonymous No.1939404]

>>1939384
If it's a cylinder head then removing the head and taking it to a machine shop where they can use an EDM or milling machine is a rather good idea. You'll need a very steady hand and the right RPM so if you doubt you have those then punt and take the head to someone with the right equipment like an EDM.

You could practice on scrap first.

[Anonymous No.1939407]

>>1939404
Its going to cost $250 to have a shop do it.

[Anonymous No.1939463]

>>1939365
I already checked the spark, it zapped me pretty good.

[Anonymous No.1939566]

>>1939313
the main issue is theres a square about 1x1m in the centre from everything else

[Anonymous No.1939570]

>>1937209
>stupid QUESTIONS THAT DONT DESERVE THEIR OWN THREAD
Okay I think I'm in the right place for this one:

Imagine you were magically teleported to the middle ages about 1000 years ago (pick your location) as some kind of nobility, say a duke or prince. Knowing everything that you know now about science and construction, what innovations would you bring to that time? Inventions, constructions, anything /diy/ with the limitation that you can only use what was available back then.

[Anonymous No.1939571]

>>1939570
dragon dildos

[Anonymous No.1939576]

>>1939570
>what innovations would you bring to that time?

Yeah, this is definitely a stupid question. You'd tell them about electromagnetism, how to make steel, how to isolate chemical elements and other aspects of chemistry, and you'd guide them to other aspects of the scientific revolution; what sort of answer were you expecting?

[Anonymous No.1939579]

>>1939576
>what sort of answer were you expecting?
Well...
>how to make steel
How would you make steel?
>how to isolate chemical elements and other aspects of chemistry
How? Using what?

[Anonymous No.1939583]

>>1939570
well your post dark ages.
I'd start with the basics like getting cast iron to be around 500 years early.
Then I'd move on to stuff like getting sheet glass made. obviously getting flat rollers will be the challenge here
I'd spread word in basic form of my understanding of science so that I could set up a following and get helpers.
You bet I'm going to make paper and a gutenberg press. The only difficult thing would be the metal part of the press, as I have no idea how they were made.
I'd explain how a blast furnace works.
Not sure if I'd explain how to make gunpowder though, that one's the scary one. Eh whatever, we building 11th century revolvers and shit.
Gonna build be a wheelbarrow
Gonna invent glass tempering as well why not.
I could probably make a lead battery, and from my anime knowledge japanese get some bamboo filament for a lightbulb.
The main difficulties I'm seeing are resources avaliable. So you gotta work semi limited unfortunately
I'm not sure what else I'd do immediately, but this should be good enough to speed everything up by a few centuries.

Politically, this will probably destroy the silk road, which is a good thing, and assuming I get to pick the starting country I'd probably pick norway pre christian reform.

I'd like to propose an alternative. You are placed in 11th century Australia, coastal and near people who are not hostile. How do you transform the world with such limited resources?

[Anonymous No.1939592]

>>1937209
You'll get pulsations with that setup. Incorporate a small pressure tank to act as an accumulator.
Or, get a dedicated airbrush compressor like >>1937212 suggested. They usually already incorporate one.

[Anonymous No.1939593]

>>1937898
Bridge for a gear puller.

>>1937899
Just a tap for something like an icemaker or swamp cooler.

[Anonymous No.1939795]

lost the key to my bedroom door. I can still enter my apartment but landlords want $100 for a lost key. fuck that. my idea right now is to fuck up the lock and tell them it broke (I'll probably remove the retaining clip holding in the cylinder and pull it out so the springs and pins pop out and shit). so far that's my most believable story since it's actually happened before. any other ideas for a likely story?

[Anonymous No.1939802]

>>1939795
Just get a new key cut. Take the lock apart and measure the pins.

[Anonymous No.1939821]

>>1939795
Go to the hardware store and get a rekey kit, they cost less than $10

[Anonymous No.1939844]

>>1939271
Can I get an answer to these, please?

[Anonymous No.1939850]

>>1939844
For the ceiling fan it really depends what the ceiling is made of. If it’s plasterboard it should be fine if you use the correct rated fixings, or even better screw into a wooden joist.

[Anonymous No.1939852]

>>1939850
Thank you. How do I tell if the box is properly rated? It’s all beat up and has paint all over it. I tried looking for markings but it’s not clear. Is that what I would look for?

[Anonymous No.1939861]

>>1939072
>pressure pulse
compressor is not a fan with constant flow it sucks and blows it in pulses each time crank makes a revolution
like manual pump but many times per minute
foot pump and big enough tire as tank will give you steady enough pressure long enough to empty small airbrush container, you can skip all hardware, pressure regulators etc, cheap and cheerful for a good start
I bet you can borrow spare/winter/summer tire from someone just to try it or take on out of your car if you have one

[Anonymous No.1939865]

>>1939141
Ideally, use a longer board to spread that load out among more joists. See if that fixes it

[Anonymous No.1939876]

>>1939802
I should've mentioned it's a kwikset smartkey handle, if I remember correctly those are a lot harder to take apart than a regular lock.

>>1939821
I would need the original key to rekey it

[Anonymous No.1939890]

is there a company that sells/makes japanese automotive connectors ? ..i make wire harness and connector adapters for friends i met on forums and car shows but the cost of the adapters is kinda high and i dont even charge labour in making it because i dont do it for profit

i found some guy in japan that has a website called cycleterminal.com that sells them but it takes a very long time to ship and the shipping gets 10 times more expensive than the connectors ordered

if someone has any additional sources or info i would appreciate it

[Anonymous No.1939892]

>>1939852
Not sure what you mean about the box. Send a picture.

[Anonymous No.1939896]

>>1939583
>I'd start with the basics like getting cast iron to be around 500 years early.
>I'd explain how a blast furnace works.

I'm not having enough luck finding videos or googling links. How would you set up a blast furnace in medieval times? Is there a primitive way of doing it with just masonry?

[Anonymous No.1940127]

I have a Dunkirk dxl-100 boiler. It stopped turning in the circulator pump and I verified with my multimeter that it's not sending out 120vac to the motor. Ordered a new board and installed it and ran a heat cycle and it still doesn't send power to the motor. Any ideas? I can hook up a suicide cable and the motor turns over fine, I just don't like the idea of it running 24/7

[Anonymous No.1940149]

>>1940127
Check the wires for conductivity and resistance, they should be damn near 0 ohm.
Check the relais if there are some.

[Anonymous No.1940178]

>>1939890
Go to a junkyard and cut the wire harness and connectors you want.

[Anonymous No.1940287]

>>1939134

Those won't cut through 304 at all. You'll just trash the bit after a couple millimeters.

This >>1939317 a carbide hole saw will work but using that in a hand drill will be a mess, I hope you've got a press or mag drill. They also need to be run fairly slowly. Slow feed and low RPM. Read the specs that come with the bit.

[Anonymous No.1940292]

>>1938176
Kilz primer over water spots. Paint with roller and extension handle. Do this before your floors, or make sure to cover your floors with plastic/canvas. Use 45 minute mud for misc drywall work. Small holes just use mud, larger holes use mesh/ small drywall plug, large holes use a drywall plug. Use a wooden stir stick behind drywall plugs for support. Cover mesh or plug with mud, make it nice and smooth do multiple coats sanding between coats. Yes you’ll have to remove wood trim to do flooring, nail in new quarter round, caulk, and paint after flooring goes in

[Anonymous No.1940296]

>>1938933
3 way switch before it in the circuit? Or maybe you miswired something before it in the circuit that the switch was getting power from?

[Anonymous No.1940311]

>>1940287

Yeah, I kinda gathered that (unless I want to shell out boku bucks for a sintered hole saw). I only have hand tools. I've been looking up carbide spade bits, looks like they're in the $10-$25 range. I'm trying to be cheap while effective; I won't be sad if I break a $10 bit if it gets me down far enough to use the screw extractor. For a ⅛" hole I should only need about ⅓" deep (though the deeper the better to get a good bite). As >>1939401 instructed, the point of using a spade bit is if it breaks, it's not embedded, I should be able to pick or knock it out.

I, I don't know, I guess having an issue that I can't find these bits at a B&M hardware store, they really seem to be an online thing only. I can get twist bits at HD or Lowe's, cheap even, but I'm afraid to even attempt those with a hand drill (despite their advertising photos). Their only spade bits are cut for masonry; no point in spending money on a bit that won't be sharp enough to do the job. Sucks to have to wait.

[Anonymous No.1940328]

>>1940149
Yeah that's why I swapped the board. There's a couple of relays and they had corrosion on the solder joints so I ordered the board. Wires are good. Meter at the board itself still show 0vac when the boiler kicks on. Operation manual says the circulator pump should run until temp is met and then turn off.

[Anonymous No.1940387]

>>1940178
i need new connectors ...also there are rarely cars i need in junkyards where i live let alone the specific ones that i aim to reuse

[Anonymous No.1940410]

Can anyone that have one of those measure the outer diameter of the shaft on the claw. I'm doing a special holder but I don't have a claw right now to measure on

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1940430]

>>1940410
Remind me when I get home from work.

>>1939281
Well, there’s a few different sets. The 29pc drill index covers most under 1/2” unless you’re tapping holes, and even then the 29pc goes by 1/64” which is less than the margin of error with a hand drill so it will be close enough for tapping. You can get the full size index with letter bits and #1-#60 number bits if you do lots of tapping.

Anyway, HSS bits from DeWalt or Milwaukee or Bosch are good enough for most stuff. I believe you can find the 29pc Cle-Line set at Home Depot or Lowe’s which is a good US made set. Otherwise lots of people like the Norseman bits you can find online, they have HSS or you can go with their fancy blend bits like Cobalt and whatever else if you drill metal a lot, but be aware that cobalt bits are super hard which means they’re brittle, they will go through metal like butter but are unforgiving if you don’t keep them perfectly straight with the right amount of pressure.

[Anonymous No.1940435]

>>1940328
Have you checked the whole cable and plugs from the board itself to the motor for conductivity?
As you allready said, there was corrosion, so maybe a connector or cable corroded internaly as well.
Also check fuses, maybe there is a short somewhere and that short blows fuses faster than the motor could even start.

[Anonymous No.1940477]

>>1940410
mines 5.4mm, but they may not be standard

[Anonymous No.1940520]

>>1939281
>>1939163
Good drill bits arent cheap.
Bad drill bits are a horrible waste of money.
Just because they have a brand name on them doesnt mean they are ok.

HSS comes in many different varieties, bits like Skil and Ryobi and Masterforce will say HSS, but it will be something like 4241 HSS which will fail rather quickly while drilling steel. Its only for wood
They dont list it because people dont care, and they quite frankly dont want you knowing

M2 is the "standard" and will cut steel (and stainless if you know what you are doing)
Just because its M2, doesnt mean its good. All of the Harbor Freight drill bits are M2, but they are all ground very poorly out of the box so it still doesnt matter they still wont cut. Dont listen to anyone who tells you otherwise, they are fucking garbage.

The grind is the most important part
135deg split point grind starts and cuts metal without walking much better than standard 118.
Its also more expensive to manufacture, and the margin of error is much worse. A bad 135 grind will make an otherwise good bit worthless.
And yes, the cheaper manufacturers fuck up their grinds routinely.
Also coatings mean absofuckinglutley nothing to you so ignore them all

So this is where things get shitty
For big box store and recognizable name brands,you dont know what grade steel a company is using, and you dont know how good or bad the grinds are until you have them out of the box. Its all a guess, brand names mean nothing. Most are mediocre or very overpriced.

Ive shilled them for years on here, and Project Farm did a video that reaffirmed it.
Dewalt drill bits sets at lowes are a good price, and are proven to have very clean grinds and quality blanks.
Their 14 piece set routinely goes on sale for $10 and the 21 piece set routinely goes on sale for $20. Even at full price they are great.

For someone who just needs random beater drills, get the 21p dewalt set, and move on when you feel the need.

[Anonymous No.1940521]

What tools/materials would I need to attach a metal name plate with screw holes to this leather item? Or what type of professional service would I need to do so? The inside is hollow, but I don't want to use glue because I'm afraid of the plate falling off in the long term.

[Anonymous No.1940522]

>>1940520
Also DONT buy the dewalt pilot point bits (their only 29p set has them), dont buy Milwaukee with their gimmick axis point bits, dont listen to "variable helix" gimmicks. Its marketing trash and in the case of the grind, its actually a hindrance in most cases.
Cobalt is harder and will drill harder material like Stainless, its much more brittle and youll break them easier, so only pay the extra if you know you need it. Also m35 cobalt is barely a cobalt bit, look for m42 cobalt (another thing they usually wont tell you at the low end, milwaukees and irwins cobalt are m35 trash)

The actual higher end expensive stuff is way way fucking better but will still snap and break if you let it jump around.
Norseman Viking, PTD, Morse, Triumph, RMT, Cleveland, Chicago latrobe and more
They will tell you right off the bat if its M2, or M7 or m35 or m42 or anything special.

Another big thing, ebayers sell no name chinese bits in USA made Huot boxes and will claim stuff. Do not trust or buy these.
Drill America does NOT sell USA made drill bits, Drill Hog does NOT sell USA made drill bits. They put chinese bits into a USA made Huot box, charge double and then are ambigous about it all.
Huot does not make drills, they make metal drill bit index boxes, thats it, do not get fooled by it.

SAE sized drills normally come in 3 different sets, Fractional , Letter, and Number sizes from #60 to 1/2". Number is wire gauge sizes, fractional is 64ths/32nds/16ths etc, letter is in between.
So when you see a 29pc fractional set its 1/16 to 1/2, a number set its #60 to #1 and letter A to Z. You can get all 3 in one cass as a 115pc set. Norseman sells one, quality USA made m2 Drills for $199 from Bowers on ebay. Its the perfect set for stepping up into real drill bits. Check the chart and see the overlaps of the whole set, its very useful for machinists maybe not as much for others.

Its pretty much a crapshoot at the low end, and lots of money at the high end, no middle ground.

[Anonymous No.1940524]

>>1940521
Use rivets, they sell them for leather

[Anonymous No.1940541]

>>1938011
go in the attic?

[Anonymous No.1940546]

>>1938176
just use a roller. prime it first or maybe a few times with Kilz then just use ceiling paint.
yes, you need to remove those boards (tack strips). should remove the baseboards too. get the right tools to install the flooring (https://www.harborfreight.com/floor-installation-kit-96447.html))

[Anonymous No.1940549]

>>1938458
cut with dykes in the middle and pull out with pliers

[Anonymous No.1940552]

>>1939271
>How is an exterior wall finished? What goes on after the sheathing? Mud finish then paint?
is it stucco? after sheathing goes lath then multiple layers of mud.
>How can I tell if an electrical box can hold a ceiling fan’s weight without looking in the crawl space? If I’m not a total retard can I trust myself to install a fan without it falling on me a month later? I’m scared of that happening without getting a sparky to do it.
put some screws in and try to pull yourself up on it. should be screwed or nailed to wood. shouldnt have any "wiggle" in it.

[Anonymous No.1940554]

>>1938679
I havent used Wera, but I routinely use Bhondus and Eklind which are cheap and pretty good quality. They last a long time, when they wear out the actual key starts to twist and you can grind them off.

I bought an Allen branded set (chinese now that Apex ruined them)
The actual hex started to round shortly after one project, I use quality fasteners and it just ate the hex key up.
Cheap hex wrenches are the fucking worst, and in cases where you have crappy fasteners it can cause you some serious trouble.

[Anonymous No.1940555]

>>1939890
digikey? mouser?

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1940557]

>>1940520
+1

Forgot to mention the point thing, especially with the DeWalt Pilot Point. They’re good on wood but I don’t know how well that works on metal, let alone sharpening them, which is why I never used them for metal,

And at least Anon is looking for good bits, it’s amazing how much of a difference there is between cheap bits and mid range bits with a proper grind, even when the cheap bits claim to be a better metal.

[Anonymous No.1940577]

>>1940521
>>1940524
What other means exist to inscribe text into leather?

[Anonymous No.1940586]

>>1940577
Leather punches

[Anonymous No.1940587]

>>1940477
Thank you anon

[Anonymous No.1940593]

>>1938214
>>1938426
back again with more question. i think some of these may be car part tools mixed in with work tools since he did a lot of car work back in the 70s

[Anonymous No.1940608]

>>1940593
1. Star drill, its a chisel for masonry
4. oil filter wrenches
5. pin wrench
8. tubing cutter for brake lines and such
11. hole saws
12. tubing bender for brake lines and such

[Anonymous No.1940683]

>>1940593
8. oil pressure sensor?
9. goes under your sink to the p-trap

[Anonymous No.1940694]

>>1940593
Got yourself a nice torture kit their buddy, missing an ice pick and some rope.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1940786]

>>1940410
The main shaft? I got 7mm on my HF model that came with soldering iron holder and magnifying glass

[Anonymous No.1940821]

Any tips for painting thin metal poles?

[Anonymous No.1940889]

Should a vertical wind turbine have corkscrewed blades? Or are straight blades better?

[Anonymous No.1940892]

Probably an over asked question, but do you guys use any alternative fuels for your Zippo lighters? I was thinking of maybe trying vm&p naphtha but i was wondering if you have any experiences w/ others.

[Anonymous No.1940896]

>>1937209
I wanna make screen printed patches using manga art like pic related
How would I do that?
I would just use photoshop to make an image a stencil? And then use an exacto knife? Or what? And then screen print with it

[Anonymous No.1940926]

>>1940896
You can either order a screen (which is easy and pretty cheaply priced these days) or do it yourself by printing the design on a transparency paper using a printer, then exposing a screen which you have coated in photosensitive emulsion.

This instructable goes over the process fairly well: https://www.instructables.com/Photo-emulsion-Screen-Printing/

[Anonymous No.1940929]

>>1939329
Probably just flooded it. Pull the plug and dry it off with compressed and pull the pull starter while the plug is out a few times. Then try re-starting it.

[Anonymous No.1940930]

>>1937214

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVBvlrjVUtw

[Anonymous No.1940943]

>>1940593
1. masonry drill hit with a hammer, rotate and hit again, and you can drill a hole
2. Just an S hook for hanging over a rafter or something like that. May actually be a meat hook like a butcher would use to hang carcasses in a cooler.
3. oil spouts for oil cans that used to come in a quart can. You would jam it in the top and then pour the oil out.
4. oil filter wrenches.
5. Pin spanner wrench. There are special nuts that sometimes need a wrench like this.
6. Oil pressure sending unit that would mount to an oil gallery on the engine. A wire would run up to a light or gauge in the cab.
7. Not sure
8. tubing cutter.
9. sink drain tube with corrugation for misalignment
10. Bernard style parallel pliers with wire cutter on the side
11. Hole saws
12. Tubing bender for making nice bends in tubing without kinking it.
13. Not entirely sure. Maybe a pop riveter of some sort? Get more pics of it and #7 too.

[Anonymous No.1940959]

>>1937209
Fridge compressor might provide enough CFM for airbrush.
There is a catch tho. Fridge compressor will deliver 35 fucking bars no fucking problem. Especially old, R12 or R134a one.

[Anonymous No.1940985]

>>1940926
Thank you king

[Anonymous No.1941008]

>>1939795
...why can't you just replace the knob?

[Anonymous No.1941130]

>>1941008
because when I move out next year they're gonna want their key back, and if it doesn't match the key they have for my door, they're gonna know I switched it out and probably throw a bunch of fees at me.

[Anonymous No.1941138]

>>1938124
How did you get a bag of controllers? I want a bag of controllers

[Anonymous No.1941278]

>>1941130
>replace a doorknob on your dime
>still give them both keys to the new knob
>landlord gets mad for getting a free new doorknob

[Anonymous No.1941292]

What do you guys do with used brass wool full of solder? Is it possible to remove or reclaim the solder?

[Anonymous No.1941306]

Why does my fridge/freezer sometimes make a noise that sounds like when you slurp up the very last of a drink with a straw and how do I stop it? It's like 10 times more annoying than any of the other normal noises it makes.

[Anonymous No.1941310]

>>1941292
I hit it with my torch but the the solder is of no worth so I discard it.

[Anonymous No.1941326]

>>1940892
Had a buddy that used to put regular unleaded in his.

[Anonymous No.1941447]

>>1937209
This window latch is binding and I can't open it. I took it off of the window and I still can't get it to do more than just wiggle a little bit. It appears to be riveted together and I can't see an obvious way to disassemble it non-destructively. What's going on and how do I fix it?

[Anonymous No.1941463]

>>1940555
the electronics resellers only hold current year connectors i need older ones and different types and sizes ...i guess i forgot to add that in my OP

[Anonymous No.1941466]

>>1941130
a new doorknob with keys is like 10 $ you get two keys and say sorry man the knob broke and i didnt want to bother you with bullshit heres the spare key ...i see absolutely no grounds for a fee or legal action if you disclosed to him what happened and still gave him a spare key (he needs a spare key for legal reasons) dont be a bitch boy

[Anonymous No.1941468]

>>1941306
Do any of these noises match what you're hearing?
https://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=15901

[Anonymous No.1941469]

>>1941292
you wash the wool basically ...the solder should break off/fall off
if that doesnt work you heat it up and do the same ...i dont know why you would want to reclaim that solder anyways tho its basically useless since its full of shoo, oxidised , very low in ammount and is missing flux

even a very expensive spool of solder is worth buying since it lasts for years , sometimes decades if you dont actively solder

[Anonymous No.1941471]

>>1940557
The pilot points are nice for metal, we use 'em at work, but you can't sharpen them. At least, not without a ton of fucking around.

[Anonymous No.1941473]

>>1938679
They aren't. Eklind will get you hex keys just as good as wera, without the meme tax

[Anonymous No.1941483]

>>1941447
there are no servicable parts in there
ou cant open it up whitout breaking something off ...and judging by the state of the plastic and metal washer it would most likely break soon anyways...you can try spraying between the slider and plastic body with some WD-40 or some other cleaning/lubricating schmoo and see if it helps ....it might be sticking on some dirt but the palstic is most likely binding to a ridge in the eroded plastic

[Anonymous No.1941511]

>>1941278
>>1941466

I don't know if that would be okay, the "landlord" is a corporation so I don't know if they would approve of me switching out a lock on my own. maybe if it was a single person they would be reasonable but these guys are kind of dicks

[Anonymous No.1941524]

>>1941511
landlords generally bitch about changing locks because that means they cant get in if/when they want and usually think that yo uare doing some illegal shit ...thats the point of telling them you did it and giving them an extra key....if they bitch a bit then so be it ..its not like they can sue you for it ...also its better than getting your shit stolen or paying 100 fucking dollars for another key

or try to convince a locksmith to come and get a look at it and make a key from the lock (they can do that ) but i cant tell you how much that costs

[Anonymous No.1941527]

What is a good app to use for listening to pirated audio books? I got the mp3 but I would like for it to save my progress, can I use Spotify?

[Anonymous No.1941534]

>>1939795
Do you have any photographs of the original key? You can probably figure out the bitting code.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1941542]

>>1940943
>Bernard pliers
Bretty kewl.

Are you a tool collector or old as fuck?

[Anonymous No.1941568]

>>1940943
>>1940683
>>1940608
>>1940593
thanks guys. seems like quite a few were car-related.
second question is are some of these worth keeping around anymore? (oil can spouts, rusty meat hook) maybe sell them for a few bucks at a sale
>>1940943
i checked 13 and it is indeed a pop riviter, nice. what would i use it for?
7 is literally the same on the other side. could be garden tool. wood handle with pointed spikes

[Anonymous No.1941625]

I might've posted this before not sure,
a wall in the basement is going to sit under the i-beam for easier stud wall assembly. however the clearance is only 76" while the standard prehung door is 80" im planning on a hollow-core door, something simple and plain.
whats the best approach? should i try to buy a prehung door and disassemble it and cut it down or buy all the parts and a uncut door and drill the latch and knob holes. etc

[Anonymous No.1941632]

>>1941483
>plastic
I'm pretty sure its some kind of cast potmetal, not that that makes any real difference.

[Anonymous No.1941638]

>>1941524
>its not like they can sue you for it
I looked at my lease just now and it says I need approval to change any locks. damn

>>1941534
nope

[Anonymous No.1941647]

>>1941638
If you're not in a hurry to replace your key you could make a hobby of lock impressioning. In the mean time, I'd remove the lock from your door in the mean time so you don't accidentally lock yourself out. You could temporarily replace your door knob if you have apartmentmates and want the privacy and just put things back when you return your duplicated key at the end of the lease.

[Anonymous No.1941671]

>>1941625
buy a prehung solid core door and it includes a panel at the bottom you can cut off to any size. pretty sure you can do this with a hollow door to. i think you can cut the bottom off and take the piece of wood out of the piece you cut off and put it into the smaller door... but not 100% sure on the hollow one.

[Anonymous No.1941672]

hello i am a retarded neet. i need a vocation and have chosen to become a welder.
What should i look for in a trade school, what topics should be covered and what will i be expected to know if i start a job as a welder?
what type of pay can I expect once i complete a school? (denver suburbs)
thanks

[Anonymous No.1941674]

>>1941671
wont that shift the knob 4" lower than it should be?

[Anonymous No.1941680]

>>1941674
get the door where you have to cut your own knob hole. i never said it was easy. or you can dig 4" deeper basement

[Anonymous No.1941692]

>>1941680
i dont think they make prehung without holes already drilled for the knob and latch.
what youre suggesting is basically buy a slab door and all the jambs separately and drill my own holes

[Anonymous No.1941706]

Making a shitty weight tree for my first wood project. I bought a cheap skilsaw to help me with this.

What's a cheap and easy way to create the branch that holds the weights. My initial design is to have an upright 4x4 with 1.5in dowels running straight through. I guess either drill a hole in the 4x4 and slip a single piece of dowel in, or glue two pieces together so they meet in the middle.

[Anonymous No.1941760]

>>1937209
What's the best thing to spray on weeds to kill them?
Poison isn't working, I need the good stuff. I saw someone spraying kero or petrol or something on theirs the other day.
This isn't on grass, this is growing through rock/gravel area, so the more deadly to any type of grass the better. (Also I don't have pets or anything to worry about)

[Anonymous No.1941766]

>>1941760
salt.

[Anonymous No.1941767]

>>1941766
I tried pouring pool salt on them weeks ago but that didn't really do anything

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1941769]

>>1941760
The cheaper Roundup works if you soak the stuff, but the more expensive “365” or “12 Month” stuff seems to keep any remainder of the plant from popping back up in the same spot for some time.

There is something about hitting the plants right after a rain storm that lets the poison soak into the leaves faster.

[Anonymous No.1941774]

>>1941692
>buy a slab door and all the jambs separately and drill my own holes
Now there's an idea.

[Anonymous No.1941775]

>>1941767
first pull them out, then use a shovel to displace the soil theyre growing in and add salt.

[Anonymous No.1941778]

>>1941769
I'm in Australia and I can't find the Roundup 365/12 month stuff here, otherwise I'd definitely use that.

Have used this cheapo brand 12 month stuff but the results are meh https://www.bunnings.com.au/brunnings-1l-path-weeder_p3013486

Was thinking of giving this one a go https://www.bunnings.com.au/yates-1l-path-weeder-concentrate_p2962054

[Anonymous No.1941781]

>>1941774
that was literally my question
>do i buy prehung and cut
>do i buy undrilled door and do my own

[Anonymous No.1941798]

>>1941760
Boiling water.

[Anonymous No.1941801]

>>1941781
>the prefab solution doesn't work here, should I do a custom fabrication?
I guess it's in the thread name.

[Anonymous No.1941896]

To all the leather workers out there - Where do you get your leather from? Are there particularly good online shops you can recommend?

[Anonymous No.1941897]

>>1941310
>>1941469
Wouldn’t the solder melt but remains sticking to the wool?

To clarify, my main goal is to reuse the wool. The part about reclaiming solder is just for fun.

[Anonymous No.1941908]

>>1941542
>Are you a tool collector or old as fuck?

I'm 35, I've just been around a lot of this shit at farm and consignment auctions.

Mr. Pete has discussed the Bernard pliers many times on his channel. I've watched about all of his "what is it" series where he goes over odd tools. Some of them I've known and others had me stumped. I'm always interested in learning more though...

[Anonymous No.1941913]

>>1941706

The one single dowel through the hole would be better.

[Anonymous No.1941914]

>>1941769
>There is something about hitting the plants right after a rain storm that lets the poison soak into the leaves faster.

If the weeds are growing well then they should take up the spray and die. If they are stressed and not growing then they will be harder to kill. We are pretty dry around this are and sometimes the weeds get stunted due to a lack of moisture. You can't hardly kill those damn things when they are like that.

If you get them when they are young and growing like crazy though you can really knock the fuck out of them.

[Anonymous No.1941921]

>>1941568
>i checked 13 and it is indeed a pop riviter, nice. what would i use it for?
>7 is literally the same on the other side. could be garden tool. wood handle with pointed spikes

Pop rivits... Duh!

I dunno about 7. Only thing I can really think of is maybe a radiator fin comb. I've never seen one quite like that before though.

Could maybe also be a vintage pricking iron or thonging chisel for leather working. You use them to poke holes into the leather at a regular spacing so you can stitch things together.

[Anonymous No.1941928]

>>1937209
How can I connect these hoses in some way to not lose pressure?

[Anonymous No.1941930]

>>1941928
https://youtu.be/0bnA_zfJ_m8

[Anonymous No.1941939]

>>1941930
Okay so if I get this regulator how can I attach the hoses?

[Anonymous No.1941952]

The linoleum in my kitchen is coming up in one corner. When it's pressed back down there are gaps between it and the wall. What's a good way to get it to lay flat again and deal with the gaps?

[Anonymous No.1941999]

Whats the ‘official’ name for the oil drain hose like pic related? I have only found the thread size I need (M20x1.5 for honda gxv390) on sites I dont trust. I didn’t see any products with this engine use a drain hose and I’m stuck. Other suggestions for a solution appreciated. I’ll post a pic of the stupid engineering causing the problem next.

[Anonymous No.1942001]

>>1941999
Drain plug in the middle of the deck on the brush mower. Trying to use one of the cheap syphon pumps through the dipstick tube didnt work and its a bit of a mother to try direct the oil by tilting the machine. Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.1942018]

>>1940593
7 might be for punching stitching holes in leather.

[Anonymous No.1942025]

>>1941625
Can you buy a prehung & cut 2" off the top & bottom? That way the knob will be in the same place.

If it's a hollow door cut some 1" or so square timber to fill in the hollow bits left in the top & bottom, nail in, punch down, putty smooth & paint over.

The putty or whatever filler could fill the marks from the saw too.

[Anonymous No.1942031]

>>1941778
A weed burner is your friend.

As a fellow Aussie here's an LPG attachment from bunnings:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/tradeflame-870mm-propane-torch-weed-burner_p5910467

Or you could get an old kero one for old school shits & giggles. They're getting a bit hard to find though.

[Anonymous No.1942069]

>>1942025
sure its woth a shot. due to my low clearance i wont be having a horizontal top jamb or header since the clearance is already low enough at 6'4

[Anonymous No.1942078]

What is pic related called?

I basicly want a stand to which something can be attached to and then rotated 360 degrees BUT can be locked in place.
I have troubles finding what I'm looking for without knowing what to search for.
Are there similar things to pic, any other things that would do the job?

[Anonymous No.1942086]

>>1940892
Regular unleaded works, but you're gonna sink like gasoline all the time. Same with kerosene. Naphtha burns big as hell, like your image, and alcohol burns invisible and you'll burn the shit out of yourself with it.

[Anonymous No.1942092]

>>1941999

Home Depot sells them.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/20-mm-Oil-Drain-Hose-Extractor-HON1420/207046666

[Anonymous No.1942110]

>>1937669
Woodworking shop or a good ol' fashioned furniture shop.

[Anonymous No.1942118]

>>1941638
>I looked at my lease just now and it says I need approval to change any locks.

Now there is a in. Tell the landlord Your key was stolen but you were too embarrassed to admit it. You would like to change the locks yourself for security reasons. See if you can get approval that way and then just replace the knob.

[Anonymous No.1942120]

Hi folks, and idea where the blue wire should go?

I've never seen anything like this before - old UK wiring and I'm young af.

The left hand switch controls one set of lights (set 1)
The right hand switch controls another set of lights (set 2) that are also controlled by another switch.

When I connect it to right hand L1 the two switch positions mean either set 1 or set 2 are on.

When I connect it to the right hand L2, it turns both sets on or off depending on the position of the right hand switch.

All other wires are connected exactly as when I removed it, though I did move them a little for this picture before I changed over the wall plate.

Very much appreciated if somebody can help - I'm having difficulty reasoning this out.

[Anonymous No.1942123]

>>1937669
Etsy

[Anonymous No.1942150]

>>1942120
Looks like the UK changed cable colors a little over a decade ago... Do you have a voltmeter?

[Anonymous No.1942207]

>>1942150
Yeah, a little annoying, but oh well.

Sadly, it's a no to the voltmeter.. I'm probably just going to work my way through the remaining four until it works.

[Anonymous No.1942248]

>>1942092
You’re the man. Why Google didn’t tell me that I don’t know.

[Anonymous No.1942291]

>>1942118
If I admit I no longer have a key, wouldn't they just charge me the $100 for a replacement key? the office is a bunch of assholes and I'm convinced that as soon as I let them know they'll jump on the opportunity to charge me for more shit

[Anonymous No.1942334]

>>1942120
ok brown jumper implies power in comes from the red in L1, blue, yellow and red in com are to the other switch presumably. the two reds in L2 must go out to two different lights but thats where it belongs in with the two reds.
when you say right hand you mean the one with the brown and red right? i.e. the left hand.
otherwise show inside the second switch.

[Anonymous No.1942427]

So I know that in order to make charcoal you need to cook wood without burning it. How would I go about extracting wood alcohol/methanol from wood? I have heard that their is some in the gasses that come out of the wood which is being cooked. Would I just capture and cool those gasses and distill the liquid which comes out?

[Anonymous No.1942618]

forgive my retardation but I need this but in 4-6 inch form.
Wanna basically secure some seaweed to it to make underwater trees.
What the hell would something like this be called?

[Anonymous No.1942619]

What happened here? Brother borrowed my truck and I think he left the parking break on. Cable looks like it releases fine going into the hub. One rear brake is stuck on, pads just barely touching, ears on the pads are bent somehow see pic. Can’t move by hand but drives fine, coasts like its in a high gear w/o OD slowly slowing down or maintaining speed depending on the hill. Didnt have time to really look had to take it home. Just looking for thoughts before I tear into it and potentially buy all new hardware before hand to fix it in one sitting.

[Anonymous No.1942626]

>>1942619
i never worked on a truck before but my car the pads that the foot brake operate are different to the shoes that the hand brake operate

[Anonymous No.1942632]

>>1941760
Anon, don't use poisons like roundup. Look at a garden supply store for organic weedkiller, you'll find 20% acetic acid. Dont get this shit on your hands or eyes, it might be just vinegar but 20% is strong and can burn you. Like the other anon said, wait until a sunny day after rain and douse the fuckers.

[Anonymous No.1942646]

>>1942626
Same as a truck but its a foot pedal instead of a hand lever. Originally I thought thats what was stuck but everything looks free. However, the regular brakes are touching. Im starting to think him leaving the parking brake on heated it up enough to fuck with the regular brakes. I wish it wasn’t raining, I can stop thinking about what it might be.

[Anonymous No.1942737]

What is this tool? I have one that belonged to my grandpa. It looks like some sort of battery tester. How does it work?

[Anonymous No.1942752]

>>1942737

High Amp Car battery tester (killer).
Two modes.
Dead short will show you full CCA. Read fast or you will explode the battery. Bar will also get hot as Hades hence the thick handles.

In-line mode will show amperage use/charge. This is a high amp version that show you how many amps are being drawn by the starter (good for diagnosing if a start problem is an internal short in the starter or a bad cable connection). It will also show you if your alternator is working but you probably will not get an accurate reading at this scale (e.g. a 300W alternator is only 22A).

Make sure the contacts are shiny clean for an accurate reading.

[Anonymous No.1942786]

Why's it so fucking hard to find an impact bit set with a decent selection? They're all a bunch of Phillips and pozi (if I was stripping those constantly I'd just buy a box of 25 or whatever), a bunch of torx, and then hardly any hex if any and never any larger than 6mm. Take this Wera set for example, only 4 hex bits one of each size but they give you multiples of the larger torx sizes that you're less likely to strip.

I've managed to find 8/10 piece hex bit sets on Amazon that go up to 12mm but I don't trust the chinesium and they don't come with a case to keep them in.

[Anonymous No.1942798]

>>1942737
It's a much nicer version of the cheap load testers sold today.

[Anonymous No.1942879]

>>1937209
I want to make a bed, but I'm unsure of how to join the corners of the frame to the posts I'm using for the legs. I'm thinking of recessing a 6x6 and gluing the frame onto it, but I don't know which of the two orientations I'm posting is stronger. This is basically a top down view of a 6x6, with the black areas being cut out so that my frame lays in them. Is A or B stronger? Or is there some other, better orienation?

[Anonymous No.1942882]

>>1937209
downsides to building a mini cabin in the woods?

[Anonymous No.1942883]

>>1942882
squatters

[Anonymous No.1942937]

>>1942618
Craft wire

[Anonymous No.1942957]

Are my parents retarded?
>making pasta
>drain it in sink
>like I’ve done hundreds of times, seen friends do, and gordon ramsay
>get yelled at because parents think pouring boiling water down the drain is gonna damage the pipes
>their recommendation is pouring cold water in first and dumping the boiling water in after
Isn’t this just going to put more stress on the pipes going from cold to hot instead of just room temp to hot? I feel like they’re just making a problem where there isn’t one.

[Anonymous No.1942992]

house from the 50s has had different wiring over the decades and now im trying to organize and rewire it cleaner:
theres two wires going into a hole in the basement ceiling, one original nylon sheathed cable, and one newer 18ga to to the furnace
the nylon cable now goes to recently added transformer (I assume 24, but could be 16) that seems to feed off to the front and rear doorbells(?)
so the furnace is powering the thermostat, the old nylon wire is going the door chime, correct?

[Anonymous No.1943000]

>>1937209
How do I fix this?

It's a tiny little hole caused by wear and tear to the window that was just painted over instead of being repaired? Apologies for the shitty pic

Basically, I was hoping that no air would come through the windows two doors, but they could still be open and shut when it becomes summer and I do actually want a breeze?

My first thought was get a windsock, but it's vertical instead of horizontal which makes it harder to prop up and there's two doors that open and it might make doing that harder
Second thought, a piece of thin rubber just attached to one of the doors so that when it closed it either naturally laid behind both doors or if it got stuck between both doors it still wouldn't be an issue with closing it--but how do I attach it? glue? epoxy? staples? I really don't know

Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.1943003]

>>1941952
You might want to remove that piece of wood that used to hold it in place, and replace it wich tricker one.

> Talking my ass here

[Anonymous No.1943004]

>>1942957
How old are the pipes?
Also, if it's a problem, just run cold water in the sink while draining pasta or fill the basin with water and plot a clog in there

[Anonymous No.1943020]

My shitty lightbulb in my shitty bathroom isn't in its own plastic case so the covered wires connecting the socket into the wall are visible. It gets really steamy when I take a shower, is there any danger of the lightbulb short-circuiting?

[Anonymous No.1943029]

I asked in the machinist thread bit let me try here too:
I have some aluminum hub rings for a truck that came to me the exact same size on the outside diameter as the wheel they go into. They won't go in. I need to shave off about .1 mm from the outside diameter. Is there a way I can do this myself while keeping the OD both perfectly round and keep the center the same.

Pic rel. It's just the flat surface on the outside that needs to get shaved down a tiny bit. I think sandpaper will do it easily but how do I keep it concentric.

So far my best idea is to put a round rod in a vice, pinch the inside of the ring up against it using a soft round thing in a power drill so it will spin the ring and then press some sandpaper against it close to where it's being pinched. Kind of hard to explain but maybe you catch my drift.

[Anonymous No.1943032]

^^^
I guess what I had in mind was a sort of ghetto diy ring roller but it seems you need three rollers.

[Anonymous No.1943037]

>>1943000
I saw some peelable silicone caulk at the hardware store the other day. Maybe worth trying. You could also screw a small board on to cover it up. I would also consider weather stripping if i were you. It's usually self adhesive. Open the window, apply, close window, gap filled.

[Anonymous No.1943039]

>>1943000
Nice trips
>Second thought, a piece of thin rubber just attached to one of the doors
Yep that'll work. Sure, glue, staples, little tacks whatever holds it flat against one surface.
That gap is also big enough to put spme window weathestripping on the inside of the gap. For best results do both. It is sticky on one side but you need to clean the surface with rubbing alcohol or it won't stick well. Pic related.

[Anonymous No.1943041]

>>1943029
-cut out a round piece of wood just slightly larger than the inside of the ring
-drill a hole in the centre and and thread a bolt through
-stick the bolt in the chuck of a drill and use that to spin it, sand down the disc of wood until it's a tight press fit in the ring
-press the ring onto the wood disc and use the drill to spin it, again sand it down until it fits inside the rim.

Alternatively if the rings are a snug fit onto the truck's hub, or you don't mind gluing them on and then prying them off, you could run the engine to spin the hubs and sand down the rings with them mounted.

[Anonymous No.1943044]

Is there a name for this kind of coupling? It's a planetary gear attachment for small 6 volt motor.

[Anonymous No.1943061]

>>1943041
First idea:
How do I find and manage to drill a hole in the exact center of the piece of wood down to thenths or hundredths of a millimeter.

Second idea:
That sounds pretty good actually. I thought of it earlier and promptly forgot about it because I'm an idiot. They do fit snug on the hub, I tried it earlier. The reason I abandoned the idea is because I had a front wheel off when I tried fitting it on and couldn't think of a way to lift all 4 corners of the vehicle safely, especially while in 4wd with all wheels spinning. It didn't occur to me I only need to lift the back end because, again, am idiot.

[Anonymous No.1943069]

>>1943061
It doesn't need to be exactly in the centre, just apply constant pressure and you'll take off the same amount of material all the way round

[Anonymous No.1943070]

>>1943029
Press fit with the existing hub threads/studs. Use a wheel spacer or any piece of something with the same bolt pattern to press the ring on

[Anonymous No.1943078]

I live in a shitty apartment and im getting condensation on my windows already (and its only 45 out). Seems to be a problem on my side of the building

Anything I can do other than those cling films (Not allowed), opening the window during cooking/showers and wiping them down in the AM? I don't want any mold growing on these grotty fucking things

Keep in mind this apartment is a dump that has cheap shit pest control and won't help me address my carpet beetle larvae problem even though I hoover daily, have next to visible dust, and search everywhere for the fuckers.

[Anonymous No.1943088]

>>1943069
I suppose that's true if it's not spinning too fast
>>1943070
Good idea.

I tried putting the hub rings in the freezer and heated the wheels up with a heat gun but that didn't work.

[Anonymous No.1943194]

>>1943078
dehumidifier

[Anonymous No.1943198]

>>1943194
Thats what I was thinking. Hopefully this shit blows over in a few weeks once it stops yo-yoing between 55 and 30.

Im fuckin shivering in my room already

[Anonymous No.1943202]

I used spray on homax texture to mimic the original Orange Peel texture. Mine is too grainy. Can I just keep coating it with paint a few times to smooth it out?

Here it is with 1 coat of wet paint. The top green area is the original.

[Anonymous No.1943314]

>>1941760
I pour waste antifreeze on mine. Also keeps the gravel dust down.

[Anonymous No.1943316]

>>1941999
Just go to a tractor shop and have them make you a #6 hydraulic hose and get an adapter from JIC to M20x1.5

[Anonymous No.1943325]

I want to make a simple solar phone charger. Is it as simple as buying any small solar cell, rechargeable battery, and charge controller with USB out, and wiring them together?

[Anonymous No.1943340]

hey you guys want a laugh?

crossboarder here and it's probably fucked but worth a shot.
I ordered a tool from japan which is rated for 100v and for some reason I had a normal japan to EU plug, I of course plugged it in to my 230v outlet and then it ran for about half a second and shut off. I got a 230v to 115v step down tool today and the thing just won't fucking start at all.
can provide more information and was wondering if it's possible to fix it, mr hobby polisher pro III btw.

[Anonymous No.1943341]

>>1943202
Idk, but you will never ever match the texture. Try sanding...

[Anonymous No.1943344]

>>1943340
It is fuckered. Magic smoke escaped.
Disassemble it, what if it was a thermal fuse that popped, not motor/coil/whatever it has inside.

[Anonymous No.1943349]

>>1943344
didn't see any smoke or had any smell so that's what's giving me hope. I really do hope that the motor is not fucked but that's probably it.
doesn't seem to have a fuse inside it as far as I can tell.

[Anonymous No.1943351]

>>1943341
I did sand, then sprayed on the texture. What are you suggesting.

[Anonymous No.1943352]

>>1943349
I think it is fucked. Measure that inductor, it is open - replace it and see what happens

[Anonymous No.1943354]

>>1943351
Sand the texture a little bit, this might make it a little bit less granular.
Also, old texture probably has fuckton of paint layers, and this obviously doesn't.

[Anonymous No.1943364]

>>1943352
>Measure that inductor
I don't have a multimeter anymore and I can't seem to open it, electricity does come to the circuit board as well I've noticed so as far as I can tell the motor is broken.
Thanks though you have reaffirmed the notion that it's completely fucked and that brings me closure.
I'll probably try to install a new motor into it sometime in the future.

[Anonymous No.1943399]

>>1943325
I got a fairly large 80w solar panel with a built in controller and usb out for like $100, I'd bet there are smaller ones.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1943425]

>>1943325
They sell these things all over Amazon. Hell, you could probably strip the panels and a charging board out of some cheap lawn lights, then use whatever lithium cells you want to use, and a USB out charging board.

Or just buy one of them already made for $25. The small panels barely put out any power tho,

[Anonymous No.1943539]

>>1943399
>>1943425
I don’t want to buy one because they charge too slowly. I plan on ordering a custom shape cell so that I can make one that works for my particular needs. I was just wondering about wiring, if it was more involved than what I described.

[Anonymous No.1943569]

Is there a bug killer spray that doesn't work on spiders?
It's a large ask, but if there's something that kills ants, wasps, and roaches but not spiders that'd be appreciated
I know that basically all bug spray will kill something that small if applied directly, but I just mean like in general

[Anonymous No.1943589]

>>1943569
Spiders kill the other bugs anon

[Anonymous No.1943606]

>>1943589
Not often enough for me, but that is why I want a bug spray that won't fuck with them too hard

[Anonymous No.1943614]

>>1943569
>>1943606
I think what you're shopping for is more spiders.

[Anonymous No.1943615]

>>1943614
1. Spiders can and will still eat other spiders
2. I've been banned from Spiders R Us, the nation's only legal spider repository

[Anonymous No.1943625]

>>1943615
>1. Spiders can and will still eat other spiders
Just keep buying more spiders.
>2. I've been banned from Spiders R Us, the nation's only legal spider repository
Someone at >>>/an//invert/ might be able to hook you up.

[Anonymous No.1943636]

>>1943625
If I keep buying spiders, eventually I'll end up with some sort of super spider eating spider that kills all the spiders and none of the bugs I want it to kill

[Anonymous No.1943638]

>>1943636
youll eventually get bit and become a bit of an arachnid yourself, then you can just kill the bugs yourself

[Anonymous No.1943641]

>>1943638
But I'm black, and the world isn't truly ready for a black spider-man
Just look at how people reacted to Miles Morales!

[Anonymous No.1943644]

>>1943636
In order to feed your superspider you'll need lots of regular spiders and they'll need to eat the bugs you want them to kill. It all works out, just start buying boxes of spiders and dumping them in your house.

[Anonymous No.1943649]

>>1943644
The super spider will just learn to eat all of the normal spiders
And if I turn into a spybrid (spider hybrid) the super spider will just eat me

And if I'm dead, who sell the rights for the spybrid vs super spider movie?

[Anonymous No.1943655]

>>1943649
Some jew, probably, if we're going by historical trends of the commercialization of black lives. But stop being antisemitic and go buy some spiders from the friendly spider merchant.

[Anonymous No.1943681]

First time stripping paint, working on a small bookcase and I'm down to the thousand tiny flecks left to remove with pic related and it's tedium. Is this all there is or did my smoothbrain look over some faster method?

[Anonymous No.1943689]

>>1943681
heat gun plus pull scraper or just sand smooth and use a good primer.

[Anonymous No.1943696]

>>1943569
I work with pesticides but I don't have a good answer for you. Arachnids and insects are quite different and we are taught that INSECTicides won't necessarily control spiders or mites but all of the ones I know of that work on ants roaches and wasps will also kill spiders. Maybe the neonicitinoids won't but they're not commonly labeled for household use except for termites and carpenter ants, and they probably still do affect spiders.

[Anonymous No.1943722]

I've had my bed on the floor for years. I've just never gotten around to buying a bed post cause I really don't give a fuck. But I decided I should get one but looking online even the cheapest and shittiest ones are like 70+ dollars which I find insane.

I feel like I could easily go to home depot or lowes or whatever the fuck and buy some 2x4's in various lengths and make my own easily out of just wood and nails or screws. Would it be that easy or would I have to do something like treat the wood? I haven't built anything in a long time and never did things like treating or staining wood. I just don't really want to pay 70 bucks for some piece of shit pressed metal frame when I could build something just as good out of wood for probably half or less.

[Anonymous No.1943733]

>>1943722
Are you poor or just a tight cunt? I'm surprised you're not sleeping on the streets.

[Anonymous No.1943738]

>>1943722
if you pay less than $70 to DIY it, you'll get what you pay for, might even be a deathtrap if you fuck it up badly enough

[Anonymous No.1943748]

>>1943722
you can find a bed frame at a local auction for $10

[Anonymous No.1943749]

>>1943569
bait traps will work on ants and roaches, and won't fuck with your spiders. I also spray, and enough spiders survive to immediately repopulate

[Anonymous No.1943750]

>>1943325
yes. if you want to email me at sunpixi.com I'll send you 3 bare boards for $15. ( blue )

[Anonymous No.1943780]

>>1943325
You probably want some sort of controller for the battery

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1943794]

>>1943539
I’m sure you can buy the boards they use in those. Or two common boards, one for the solar panel to 3.7v lithium, and another for the lithium to USB out.

Actually I was just thinking about it, there are plenty of solar panels with 5v usb outputs. If you get one of those, then you can grab the 50¢ usb battery protection board and make your custom lithium pack.

Even me who is retarded with electronics, but this sounds simple. Even if you get a 12V solar panel, you could convert 12V to 5V USB for the lithium charging board with the guts from a car charger

[Anonymous No.1943902]

If I buy a 6v battery to use on logic circuits, should I step down the voltage to 5v?

[Anonymous No.1943912]

>>1943750
cool biz

[Anonymous No.1943990]

>>1943912
Thanks I bought up inventory from a company that went bankrupt. I'm pretty sure I'm the only person in existence selling small solar panels in green and purple. You can only get them as part of large corporate orders and they are expensive as fuck.

I'm planning to build my own panels at home from these smaller ones so I can have disco green and purple panels. One issue is that these are already vacuum sealed into tempered glass. which is great in some ways, not so great in others. they are heavy as fuck. Because they are already in tempered glass, I can't rely on a strong glass frame to keep them all together. So trying to sort that out in between other projects.

[Anonymous No.1944011]

>>1943354
ok thanks

[Anonymous No.1944091]

>>1943722
My local thrift store has literally a pile of metal bed frames for like $30 a piece. Way better than your nigger rigged favelapunk idea.

There are a lot of things to diy, but a cheap bedframe isn't one of them when ones so much better are available for so much cheaper than you can do yourself

[Anonymous No.1944100]

Has anyone come up with a way to avoid getting ripped off by cowboys?
Some kind of checklist or something?
I need to get various kinds of work done on my house but I'm worried about some piece of shit doing a half-assed job and then running

[Anonymous No.1944122]

Which would be harder to actuate, a 3-in wide 6-in long piston or a 1-in wide 12-in long piston assuming they both have the same size output port, lever length, etc.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1944128]

>>1944100
Get a well-reviewed person to do the work. Don’t pay 100% up front. Find a 3rd party inspector if you think you need it and get paperwork drawn up so the contractor doesn’t get paid the rest until after an inspection. If they do good work, they shouldn’t worry about an inspection.

[Anonymous No.1944144]

>>1937669
go to home depot and make the those fuckers cut a 4x8 of birch ply into 6" squares on the panel saw for free

[Anonymous No.1944192]

i dont plan to be a master tradesman nor live off trades for a long time, but i wanna feel useful and make money. which trade should i look into?

[Anonymous No.1944292]

will this uneven fuck fucking explode in my face if I keep pumping? still at zero pressure

[Anonymous No.1944299]

>>1944292
They arent meant to blow up like a balloon, they are meant to hold PSI against the sidewall of a tire. So yes, it will pop when you let the tube expand in a way it wasnt meant to, even without building a ton of pressure.

[Anonymous No.1944306]

>>1944299
shit, I knew I should have bought an entire spare wheel. welp, even if it pops at least I just found about this >>1941930 a bit too late, but oh well. yay!

[Anonymous No.1944308]

>>1944306
what are you trying to do?

[Anonymous No.1944311]

>>1944308
the following
>>1937209
>>1938721

[Anonymous No.1944313]

>>1944311
Eh, I have one of those cheapo 5 gallon tanks I got for $25 and it works perfectly fine as an auxiliary tank.

[Anonymous No.1944646]

Test

[Anonymous No.1944679]

>>1941778
Boil the kettle and pour it out.
Don’t soak the plant with roundup cos it shocks the leaves off and doesn’t kill the plant.
My mate owns a garden shop in nnsw he has the good plant killer shit

[Anonymous No.1944817]

Does anyone know of any cheap bike pumps that still use a rubber plunger that can be reversed? Trying to make a small vac chamber and the model i originally ordered based off the instructios has been out of stock for a month. Ordered a similar looking pump and it has the metal tube with a plastic plunger end crimped onto it and cant be removed

[Anonymous No.1944879]

do you have any idea how (or if) I can control the temperature of an induction hob with an external controller?
my problem is that I own this fucking thing, it's got 7 different settings for heat
1: basically body temperature heat
2: just enough to melt butter
3: will melt butter, turn it black and then into smoke in like 4 seconds
4 - 7: way too hot for cooking up to basically brazing temperatures
in my googling I've pretty much only found people trying to hook a PID to it and mostly being unsuccessful. I don't need anything that fancy, I was thinking a PWM or something like that. do you think this is feasible without rewiring the circuit board or is this a dead end?

[Anonymous No.1944894]

>>1944817
A lot of pumps are fairly easy to disassemble without tools, just go to a bike shop and pull them all apart until you find what you want.

[Anonymous No.1944908]

What tools do I neet to make shit out of sheet galvanized metal?
Idk, shit like boxes for stuff (because guess what, plastic shit doesn't last), or idk, flashings on the roof, gutters... (idk what else do you do out of galvanized sheet).
Soldering iron (150W?)? Tin snips? Hammer?

[Anonymous No.1944932]

>>1944908
>inb4: jamal stole anti-jamal shield.

[Anonymous No.1944942]

I have a laptop motherboard I want to fix (need to solder over a few legs of a connector).

I do not want to power it straight from the power adapter/battery after soldering, in case I cause a short somewhere.

The power adapter is this one:
https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/accessories-and-monitors/chargers-and-batteries/chargers/PWR-ADP-BO-Type-C-65W-Adapter/p/4X20M26268

Would it be enough to just get a USB C cable, that can support enough Watts, strip it open, connect the ground and positive to the power supply, set the voltage, limit the current and connect it to the motherboard, a.la
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3w8nwyrdYw

According to the datasheet, there's a BQ25700ARSNR charge controller on the motherboard.

[Anonymous No.1944994]

Hi, I have this Panasonic Viera TX-L55DT50E, it works fine, but 2 out of 3 times it refuses to turn on. I mean, the backlight turns on but there's no image and it turns off after some seconds. It seems kinda random.

The PSU seems fine, no bulging caps, I haven't found any silkscreen indicating the voltages nor any datasheet, so I haven't checked with my multimeter.

Maybe it's the control board having trouble booting up? Any tips?

[Anonymous No.1944999]

This is a filter from a shop vac I picked off the side of the road. Super dusty, seems to have bits of insulation stuck in it. Did I just pick up a canister of free lung cancer?

[Anonymous No.1945012]

>>1938469
google vinyl glazing or vinyl spline.
https://windowrepairparts.us/product-category/metal-glazing-bead/

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1945018]

>>1944994
That was the same thing that happened to my Vizio. I got a new LG for $225.

[Anonymous No.1945086]

>>1944817
>Does anyone know of any cheap bike pumps that still use a rubber plunger that can be reversed? Trying to make a small vac chamber and the model i originally ordered based off the instructios has been out of stock for a month. Ordered a similar looking pump and it has the metal tube with a plastic plunger end crimped onto it and cant be removed

These little pumps from HF kick ass... They're actually really well built and have a suction and pressure side. You can even use it as an inflator for airing up stuff.

https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html

[Anonymous No.1945104]

>>1945086
Think this will get me to 2bar of vac? I'm trying to degas silicones for molding

[Anonymous No.1945147]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-8-Volt-MAX-Lithium-Ion-1-4-in-Hex-Cordless-Gyroscopic-Screwdriver-with-Battery-1Ah-1-Hour-Charger-DCF682N1/205926188

Is this a decent tool? Furniture assembly and odd jobs are getting annoying with just hand tools.

[Anonymous No.1945149]

>>1945147
I'd spend the extra $20 or so and just get an impact driver

[Anonymous No.1945153]

Are these going to be "hot" I imagine Iam dumb and assume it should be no.

[Anonymous No.1945184]

>>1944908
>soldering iron
>galvanized

[Anonymous No.1945186]

>>1944999
Eh, rinse it out good with water and you'll be fine

[Anonymous No.1945198]

>>1945149
I don't really want an impact driver now, I've been buying corded tools and I don't want to invest in a cordless platform

[Anonymous No.1945205]

DIY-let reporting in.
i live in this semi-janky mother in law unit with 8' ceilings and limited square footage.
could i install a ceiling-mounted pull up bar for home fitness gainz?

something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stud-Bar-Ceiling-Wall-Mountable/dp/B002X5UNZC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=ceiling+mounted+pull+up+bar&sr=8-4

[Anonymous No.1945238]

>>1945198
You don't have to buy any other tools

[Anonymous No.1945247]

>>1945184
Zinc plated steel can be soldered no problem.
I'll burn a hole in 0.3 mm steel with a welder.

[Anonymous No.1945255]

>>1945153

Shouldn't be, but test it anyway.

Whenever you get monkey work on electrical, having live current on the ground is all too possible. I've been zapped (by a ground screw on a light switch) at "nice" apartment before and I've lit a test lamp at a cheap hotel between ground and neutral.

Known, unknown, known. Test, it could save you a little nerve gassing.

[Anonymous No.1945270]

My mother wants to temporarily remove some loose insulation from her attic so that she can have an electrician look at the possibly-faulty wiring that it's hiding. A specialized 12-hp "insulation removal vacuum" apparently costs literally THOUSANDS of dollars. Will a 6-hp wet/dry vacuum work well enough? Or is the specialized vacuum really and truly necessary?

[Anonymous No.1945325]

Posting in a dying thread

My air compressor stopped working. It came with the house and I rarely use it and have only made sure there is oil in the pump. It's a big ass industrial compressor. 5hp, maybe 80-100 gallons.
It's getting power to the assembly pictured but the motor isn't doing anything. My assumption is that this diaphragm that controls when the pump turns on and off is stuck in the off position. The pump is in a lean-to shed and the dryer vents in there and everything gets covered in lint so maybe it's gummed up on the outside or maybe it's on the inside.

I guess any words of wisdom appreciated. Like if someone can at least tell me what this thing is called so I can look for a replacement or a repair guide.

[Anonymous No.1945326]

>>1945325

[Anonymous No.1945358]

What did I drill through in my wall? I want to hang something with toggle bolts but this piece of metal - whatever it is - is in the way.
Can I just make a bigger hole?
I guess I should have turned the power off, huh?

[Anonymous No.1945447]

>>1941952
use some spray adhesive on the back. Put a piece of quarter round on the wall and tuck the linoleum under it to hold it down

[Anonymous No.1945448]

>>1945270
Is it loose insulation? The shit in my attic is sheets that can just be pulled up. Also any plumbers or electricians that do work up there lift it themselves.

[Anonymous No.1945450]

>>1945358
Don't know the name for it but it's the metal frame that the drywall is screwed to.

[Anonymous No.1945453]

>>1945448
>Is it loose insulation?
Yes, it's just lying around, begging to be vacuumed up.

[Anonymous No.1945455]

>>1945453
Can you find the wiring yourself and just push the insulation to the side?

[Anonymous No.1945468]

I have a question for anyone familiar with sheet metal forming. I want to create a flat round part and give it a 90* edge with an arbitrary bevel.
The finished part should be around 17cm wide and the standing height of the edge around 0.5cm.
Looking into it, the two approaches seem to be stamping or using an edge bead. My question is then: which is the better approach? If I went with the edge bead, would it have any problems meeting up with the starting point on a blank part? I've only seen videos of edge beading done on flat edges or large gentle curves, never on a circular part or the perimeter of an entire part.

[Anonymous No.1945475]

>>1945468
I left out that I'd like to use either 16 or 18 gauge. The type of metal doesn't matter, whichever would be easiest to work with.

[Anonymous No.1945483]

>>1945455
Well, maybe we'll try that. We're very leery of falling through the floor or something, though. The wiring (as far as we can tell) is near the edge of the roof, while all the existing planks to step on are at the middle of the roof.

[Anonymous No.1945649]

How to frame 49." X 37.5" poster for cheap?

[Anonymous No.1945741]

Does anyone know of a wrench that works around corners?

I was trying to remove a 7mm bolt in my car the other day and although I could touch it with a wrench, I could only do so if the wrench was in my fingertips and I couldn't fit my hand far enough back there to actually turn the wrench. If the wrench had a 90 degree bend in it or was on a couple of poles or something I probably would've been able to get the bolt out, but I haven't been able to find anything like that online.
I know there are flexible ratchets/sockets and such, but there wasn't enough vertical clearance for that since they have to go over the top of the bolt.

[Anonymous No.1945803]

>>1945247
You should be bolting, riveting, or crimping galvanized sheet metal dumbass

[Anonymous No.1945806]

>>1945741
S-wrench or half moon wrench

[Anonymous No.1945870]

how the fuck can I remove all of this stiff foam from this fridge? I want to take out parts because of autism purposes but manually tearing away at it gets garbage everywhere

[Anonymous No.1946158]

>>1945448
>Also any plumbers or electricians that do work up there lift it themselves.

This. It isn't necessary do this yourself, for the same reason you don't need to take the engine out of your car for the mechanic to work on it. They already know how to do this.

[Anonymous No.1946161]

>>1945870
Dump some sort of solvent on it and see if it melts

[Anonymous No.1946211]

>>1937209
how do I make a small solenoid turn on and off in rapid succession with one click of a button.
like a tattoo machine sort of thing

[Anonymous No.1946228]

Why don't people use cinder blocks for walls?


For more context. I'm planning a build for a small house. Cinderblocks seem great for walls, they are easy to lay, sturdy, and simple. Are there any problems that a full cinder block building would run into?

[Anonymous No.1946232]

>>1946228
>Why don't people use cinder blocks for walls?
Erm, they do? Not really sure what you're on about, what else would they be used for?

[Anonymous No.1946233]

>>1946232
For homes. You don't really see concrete homes.

[Anonymous No.1946239]

>>1946233
There probably are some. I guess it just makes more sense to make big buildings with big blocks, plus they're easier to reinforce. One downside I can think of is they're thicker so you get less interior space, unless you were going to do two layers of bricks for insulation in which case I think the cinder blocks may be thinner.

[Anonymous No.1946526]

>drilling into granite
A client of mine wants to utilize a granite table top and I build the legs. How does one secure granite to other things?

[Anonymous No.1946654]

>>1937209
Where can I buy just like metal plating?
Anywhere that would have various sizes of metal plating under 4 inches square?
Like would I look at a hobby store or a home improvement store? any links?

[Anonymous No.1946786]

>>1946654
You could try contacting local metal supply companies. Ask if they sell drops and if they have any small pieces. I've never seen anything that small while digging through the bins at my local suppliers, but you might find pieces that are 3"x36" or other odd sizes. Ask them what it would cost to have them cut it down. If you're looking for steels or aluminum also try searching online for "welding coupons". They're pre cut pieces of metal for welding practice. I've seen them in sizes from 2"x2" up to 3"x6".


You're looking for "sheet" (thin) or "plate" (thicker stuff, 1/4" or more thicker). You may get better results if you search plate not plating.