Smoking tools

[Anonymous No.1911103]

Are there any potential downsides to smoking my great grandfather's tools (c. 1875-1936)?
>had them in a storage unit
>roof leaked
>facility owner didn't tell me
>happen upon them today
>probably 3 months later judging by the mold progress
>wet as shit
>threw them on the smoker when I got home

Did I fuck up? I've got it set to hold at 230°F, which should dry them out overnight, so I can wire brush and oil rub them tomorrow. Is there a consequence I'm not considering?

Pic related. My predicament.

[Anonymous No.1911105]

>>1911103
It looks like it was all garbage to begin with anon. Like maybe the trap and the dowel shaper(? Drill brace bit in the bottom left) is kinda cool. Everything else should be dropped in a crucible and pattern welded into a coupe knives

[Anonymous No.1911106]

Why the fuck would you smoke them? Just disassemble what you can, remove rust with one of the methods that have been talked about millions of times everywhere on the internet, replace damaged wooden parts and put them somewhere safe

[Anonymous No.1911109]

this is borderline crabmeat-tier

[Anonymous No.1911110]

>>1911103
>>had them in a storage unit
>>roof leaked
>>facility owner didn't tell me


Sue the sonofabitch, and have someone professionally restore them, you goof.

[Anonymous No.1911115]

Please don't wire brush them. That will look like garbage.
Go to your local hardware store's ag chemicals section and pick up a couple gallons of pic related or some such stuff. Phosphoric acid is the key ingredient.
Soak overnight or until the rust is gone, rinse with water and then oil.

[Anonymous No.1911118]

>>1911105
Chain drill is the coolest thing there, have you no eyes.

[Anonymous No.1911128]

>>1911118
What's a chain drill?

[Anonymous No.1911129]

>>1911115
M8, I've been blacksmithing for 18 years. Up your game.

>>1911118
There are actually two of them.

>>1911106
I'm not going to run them through my electrolysis rig for some surface rust after 100 years.

>>1911105
Yeah, some of it is trash my uncle threw into grandpopops's toolbox before he died, but even that adds some kek to the collection for when I hand it off in 30 years.

>>1911110
Have you seen the net-ton price of steel? I can't even look at the form to file a claim in small claims for that amount against a corporate cut and paste liability waiver.

[Anonymous No.1911137]

>>1911128
Let me google that for you.

>>1911103
>>1911129
The easiest way to clean them up is Evaporust. Not the cheapest, but the easiest by far. Next would be electrolysis. If you have an old school battery charger (not a smart one, it has to be 'dumb') or a DC power supply that can output a few amps that would be cheap, easy, and reusable. I would only resort to wire brushes/wheels if it was something too big for my tank or really simple to do (like those wrenches). The chain drills and saw set? Nah, take forever and be a pain in the ass with wire.

[Anonymous No.1911139]

for smoking iron tools make sure you use applewood chips, if you used cedar they're fucked

for aluminum you want hickory but it's better to roast those in a convection oven imo

[Anonymous No.1911141]

>>1911139
what kind of sauce do you use? I kind of like mustard desu.

[Anonymous No.1911142]

>>1911141
i'm not much of a sauce guy, i mostly smoke hifi audio equipment and too much sauce imparts an inverse spin on the conductors and ruins the shape of the soundwaves

[Anonymous No.1911159]

>>1911103
these are the items I can identify:
pipe wrench, drill chuck, wrench, side cutters, valve, coping saw, wrench, some kind of multi wrench, butter knife, wrench, socket, locking pliers?, nother pipe wrench, leg hold trap, wrench, nail puller or possibly fence pliers, nother socket, wrench, some kind of shackle or harness part, part of a jack?, hole cutter?, socket, wrench, small adjustable wrench, possibly a soldering iron, part of a harness, and 2 more wrenches.

nothing in that pile looks like it would be worth the time to clean and repair. maybe the fence pliers just for fun.

[Anonymous No.1911180]

>>1911129
>I've been blacksmithing for 18 years
is that why your first instinct was to toss everything over a fire?

[Anonymous No.1911193]

>>1911103
remove rust with electrolysis, clean, protect.
boom, done
that was hard

[Anonymous No.1911195]

>>1911159

[Anonymous No.1911261]

>>1911195
I'll admit I wasnt seeing it until he mentioned it and it's as good as the trap or wheel spoke cutter

[Anonymous No.1911264]

Drop in bucket of motor oil leave until clean

[Anonymous No.1911291]

>>1911261
That was me, here I go again.

That is not a spoke pointer, that is a hollow auger, it puts a round tenon onto the end of a stick. Spoke pointers put a taper onto the end of a spoke so the weight on the wheel keeps that wedge tight in its hole, if it were just a tenon the weight of the wheel would be fully supported on the shoulder of that tenon, would mean your spokes would have to have twice the diameter to achieve the same strength as that nicely tapered spoke wedging itself snug into its hole.

[Anonymous No.1911476]

>>1911139
Shit. I used pecan.

>>1911180
Absolutely.

[Anonymous No.1911485]

>>1911103
dude ive never heard of smoking tools before. im gonna do some research. Scout Crafter on youtube has a oil concoction that he rubs his refurbished tools with to keep them lubed and rust free.

[Anonymous No.1911540]

A big spraycan of good old WD40 would have been a better treatment than everything else to save the tools from catching more rust.

Remember that the WD stands for Water Displacement.

[Anonymous No.1911715]

>>1911540
Oh you again
What the fuck does water displacement have to do with rust?
Funnier yet is you didn't know that until I told you

[Anonymous No.1911744]

>>1911115
Someone from the European continent here? What's the best we've got? Not OP, but same problem on a smaller scale.

[Anonymous No.1911749]

>>1911744
Any acid will do, even garden variety grocery store vinegar. It is best knock off the loose rust with a brass wire brush first, especially with the weaker acids, will make things go much faster.

Plain white vinegar from the grocery store has one nice advantage, on high carbon steels the high water content seems to cause black oxide to form after the rust is gone which prevents flash rusting common after acid treatment and also provides some long term protection. Not good when you want shiny finished surfaces or plan on painting, just makes more work, but nice when your goal is protection and aesthetics are of little concern. The black oxide layer seems to hold oil quite nicely as well which gives great long term protection. Has become my goto for tools,

[Anonymous No.1911756]

>>1911749
>Any acid will do
Not true, going with too strong of an acid will eat the metal as well, but I assume strong acids are not very available in the EU.

[Anonymous No.1911860]

>>1911744
Same as in US I'd assume. Phosphoric acid is a staple of dairy farms worldwide and shouldn't be considered some sort of instrument of terror.
It may be a while for me, but I'll check the local shops in Germany next time I'm over there.

[Anonymous No.1911866]

>>1911756
Also be careful some may be more excited to attack the base metal before the oxide.
But even vinegar will eat steel away if left long enough, I've accidentally left some sheet metal parts soaking too long and they looked like swiss cheese. Dilution is your friend.

[Anonymous No.1912356]

Citrus acid will remove the rust like charme.
Buy the granulat, not the liquid version because it contains only 25% acid.

Even availabe if you're living in Germany.

[Anonymous No.1912376]

Thank fuck the No. 45 came out alright.