/EMT/Eternal Machinist Thread

[Anonymous No.1892664]

New thread, because the old one is practically at page 10.

Thread hymn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGNiXGX2nLU

Last thread: >>1884818

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists
>Edge precision
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-kgF0sJFno

[Anonymous No.1892670]

>>1892664
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eefFFZtbTP0

[Anonymous No.1892969]

fuck I crashed the lathe at work because for some reason the half nut got stuck and wouldn't disengage. what would even cause that?

[Anonymous No.1892976]

>>1892969
mechanical failure most likely, otherwise I don't really know.

[Anonymous No.1893008]

>>1892969
mouse crawled up in there and jammed it

[Anonymous No.1893028]

>>1892976
I had to remove my part from the chuck so I could unjam the toolpost, then I was able to run the spindle in reverse to back the carriage up and disengage the half nut. after that I tried turning it on and off on all 8 numbers and it worked normally. I don't know what the fuck happened. luckily I was only cutting delrin at the time but I still ran the cross slide into the chuck before I could hit the estop.

[Anonymous No.1893035]

>>1893028
oh that's a fairly bad crash

was it a big heavy lathe or small?

[Anonymous No.1893036]

>>1893028
Probably just under so much tension it didn't want to release. Square thread or acme threading leadscrew?

[Anonymous No.1893053]

>>1893035
I think it's like 14"x40" or maybe a little shorter. I never measured it.

>>1893036
I think it's square. I was trying to do id threading.

[Anonymous No.1894136]

>>1892664
why is everyone still in the old thread

[Anonymous No.1894537]

>>1894136
Because this was made 3 days and 60 posts early, and quite frankly it shouldnt be made until the old one 404s, not just hits the post limit.

[Anonymous No.1894686]

Alright I ordered some carbi-universal light cutting & finishing inserts for aluminum.

[Anonymous No.1895563]

>>1894136
because for some fucking reason , we can hit .0005 but we cant make 1 good fucking general,with 1 title, and 1 good high contrast picture thats easily recognizable, and not mention pol in the op

[Anonymous No.1895649]

>>1895563
>pol in the op

what are you talking about?

[Anonymous No.1895930]

Ok got radial milling worked out in the post.

[Anonymous No.1896263]

what's the best place to buy metal from? I need like 2 feet of 1/2" brass round stock.

[Anonymous No.1896265]

>>1896263
onlinemetals

[Anonymous No.1896413]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_W4x2Hec-w

fuckin' sweet

[Anonymous No.1896414]

>>1896413
>can now make rolled threads on a lathe instead of cut
>flexible mounting, cnc or manual or taper w/e
>fine adjustment for diameter
>closing clip for manual machines to open it up and pull it off without feeding back out

I'm not sure it might open automatically if you pull back on it. Either way, pretty damn cool if you want to make great fasteners or roll-hardened threads.

[Anonymous No.1896452]

loose tool presetter arm needs new bearings

[Anonymous No.1896457]

>>1896452
when i took the cap off the bottom a bunch of coolant and some grease leaked out

pair of tapered roller bearings with a nut to adjust the preload. Pretty cool setup, surprised it didn't last longer. Coolant must really screw them up.

[Anonymous No.1896458]

>>1896457

[Anonymous No.1896481]

I live in a 3rd world country, I'm poor and just got one of these

How fucked am I
I don't have any good tools yet, just those cheap tungsten ones
also, i don't have any way of adjusting the height on the tool post other then shimming, it's so bad it hurts

I broke the parting tool while working os brass, I feel so useless

[Anonymous No.1896485]

I live in a 3rd world country, I'm poor and just got one of these

How fucked am I
I don't have any good tools yet, just those cheap tungsten ones
also, i don't have any way of adjusting the height on the tool post other then shimming, it's so bad it hurts

and... I broke the parting tool while working os brass, l'm so useless

[Anonymous No.1896486]

>>1896457
>Pretty cool setup, surprised it didn't last longer. Coolant must really screw them up.
Was there any grit in there? Metal chips and particles usually get into everything, it's unreal.

[Anonymous No.1896490]

>>1896485
>How fucked am I
You have some pretty big limitations but it's better then nothing
>and... I broke the parting tool while working os brass, l'm so useless
Breakages and crashes are a normal part of learning and working in machining, it usually happens when you're in a hurry, inattentive, or too aggressive. Take your time and take it slowly until you learn the feel of the machine.
>I don't have any good tools yet, just those cheap tungsten ones also, i don't have any way of adjusting the height on the tool post other then shimming, it's so bad it hurts
Once you've recovered financially, get a quick change tool post and some better tools, try to prioritize what you need over what you want.

If you haven't already, you should watch This Old Tony, he has some good videos about mini lathes and upgrades you can do.
https://youtu.be/05vUCdzhoe4
https://youtu.be/HYOgmhpBUJs

[Anonymous No.1896492]

>>1896490
thanks for the advice man, I'm looking at some quick change toolposts on aliexpress... prices are high. On my watch list now

I watched one of This Old Tony vids on how to setup the mini lathe on the table, remove the rubber pads and etc. Watching the spindle bearings one now, thanks!

[Anonymous No.1896496]

>>1896486
well I can't be sure but the black stuff that is basically tar probably used to be grease and is now abrasive. Some rollers fell out of one of the bearings when I pulled the arm off so it's probably rusted or abraded through or something.

[Anonymous No.1896514]

Looks like a couple of these are only $80 total from NSK japan.

Not bad, and they aren't the counterfeit amazon ones either.

[anonymous No.1896553]

>>1892969
happened to me too a while back, standard M30 threads running around 300 rpm and i took pretty heavy cuts...

[Anonymous No.1896603]

>>1896553
hmm could be the half-nut threads are getting worn down to a point and starting to tighten up like a normal 60 degree V thread

[Anonymous No.1896612]

DNMG inserts for aluminum arrived too.
Some cheap brand from carbidedepot, light cutting and finishing.

[Anonymous No.1896613]

>>1896612

[Anonymous No.1896614]

>>1896613
cut data on the back

[anonymous No.1896627]

>>1896603
i don't think so, the lathe is about 6 years old and i have dissasembled and checked the half-nuts a year before this happened. i think that the mechanism which moves the half-nuts might bind up if heavy forces are involved.

[Anonymous No.1896667]

>>1896612
Could be good for plastic (use a fresh side) and brass, thats what we do at work.

[Anonymous No.1896673]

>>1896667
oh hadn't thought of that, maybe

they are very slightly positive

[Anonymous No.1896819]

fuck I fucked up and now I'm fucked bad. I was just trying to drill 3 holes in a line, but my setup must have shifted or something because they ended up crooked as shit. how can I fix this? the part is way too valuable to scrap and welding or anything that would mess up the surrounding finish isn't an option. I think the 2nd hole I can fix by retapping for the next bigger size screw, but the other 2 look fubar. how much holding strength are you losing screwing into a snowman shaped hole?

[Anonymous No.1896822]

>>1896819
modify the mount, those are counter-bored holes right?

so just make them bigger and screw it down and hope no one notices.

[Anonymous No.1896824]

>>1896822
sorry not diametrically bigger, but mill it into an oval-shaped slot, don't mill below the bottom of the counterbore though

[Anonymous No.1896847]

>>1896822
they're counterbored and then countersunk I think 90 degrees. I guess I could just cut the coutnerbore deeper when I oval the holes out.

[Anonymous No.1896852]

>>1896847
Modifying the cheaper part first is usually the way to go.

[Anonymous No.1896894]

Any good hobbyist CNC milling machines? I know Sherline has one or I can convert a Proxon but I thought I would ask.

[Anonymous No.1897173]

Thoughts on this for €1250?

I'm used to way bigger machines but I sadly don't have the room for a nice bridgeport.

[Anonymous No.1897221]

>>1897173
looks like it may be pretty stout in comparison to a lot of benchtop machines.

[Anonymous No.1897223]

>>1896894
Tormach 440?
Taig?
"hobbyist cnc milling machine" is too vague

[Anonymous No.1897232]

>>1897221
Thought so as well. It's really hard to find a good benchtop machine.

As was originally looking for a nice deckel like I used to have in school but those just aren't anywhere anymore.

I hope that all I have to do is add some digital readout.

[Anonymous No.1897381]

>>1897232
Look at precision Matthews offerings

[Anonymous No.1897442]

>>1897223
>"hobbyist cnc milling machine" is too vague
No it's not. You're just being obtuse.

[Anonymous No.1897751]

>>1892664
Been marathoning Edge Precision vids
I know nothing about CNC but the stuff he makes is really amazing, working on some weird space age part made of a titanium rod 10" by 6 feet for like 3 months

How much would a part like that cost?
Does that guy have autism?

[Anonymous No.1897813]

>>1897442
>You're just being obtuse.
Good luck getting any help in this thread by expecting people to read your mind, knowing what materials you plan to cut, what sizes your projects are, how much room you have, how much experience you have, what your budget is, where in the world you live and so on.

Ill just look into my crystal ball, I think one of those extruded aluminum CNC machines on ebay will work fine for you. And they are like €200

[Anonymous No.1897815]

>>1897442
If fine details arent your thing, machining probably isnt the hobby for you.

[Anonymous No.1897845]

>>1896894
HAAS vf1

[Anonymous No.1897849]

>>1892664
Has anyone hand ground a bunch of flat bottomed drill bits before?
Im wondering if I could make a jig to do it

[Anonymous No.1897870]

>>1897442

"Hobbyist milling machine" could realistically cover everything from the shitty 3020 machines on eBay to a low-end VMC. Or, if you want to stick to tiny machines, everything from the shitty $170 "Desktop Mini Engraving Machine Milling Engraver CNC Router" to the $6,000 Pocket NC.

[Anonymous No.1897896]

>>1897751
Tens if not hundreds of thousands.

[Anonymous No.1897966]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJ6S8a4Pd1Q

[Anonymous No.1897990]

>>1897966
Don't bother with quick change chucks, there trash unless you have a lot of time and money to throw at them.

[Anonymous No.1897998]

>>1896485
which 3rd world country? America?

[Anonymous No.1898083]

>>1897998
He's probably siesta anon that accidentally posted on /pol/ awhile back.

[Anonymous No.1898210]

Why is machining considered a sort of scummy blue collar/ex-convict line of work? It seems most of the stuff regarding machining requires a decent amount of brain power, and the high end stuff is incredibly brainy?

[Anonymous No.1898236]

>>1898210
Because for a good amount of time it was, back in the day you needed tons button pushers and lever pullers to do simple operations on manual machines. They weren't the ones doing setups so intelligence wasn't strictly required, you'd have a few real machinists that decide how things were going to be done.

Nowadays much of the simple manual labor has been automated to the point where it's not necessary, even though you still need several parts loaders/button pushers for every programmer it's not as high of a ratio as it once was, so companies can be more selective as to who they hire.

[Anonymous No.1898267]

>>1897966
Dont get wrong that is neat and all but seems like a waste of time. it took him a good 20-30 to change and attach all of those pieces for the mandrel when you could have just made a one that pressure fit on a taper and slid it into a 3 jaw chuck or throwaway collet.

then I saw the german and knew that is why they over engineered it

[Anonymous No.1898270]

>>1898267
it was just a demonstration to show the flexibility of the chucking system

[Anonymous No.1898533]

>>1898210
Most alcoholic ex convict recovering heroin addict types will never get paid more than 12/hr, no matter how long they push the green button for. These people show up, push a green button for 10 hrs, then go home and drink themselves unconscious. They don't want to learn or progress. Meanwhile if you apply yourself you could be making up to 30/hr after a couple years

[Anonymous No.1898591]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jzGpXo8AdI

[Anonymous No.1898595]

I fucking hate when the date they give you is when they will ship the package, not when the package will arrive.

Fucking bearings won't be here until monday.

[Anonymous No.1898603]

>>1898591
I like this guy a lot but the vids are like stream of consciousness rambling
It's 100% pure information and no bullshit
I genuinely wonder if he's slightly auttistic, he seems both aloof and extremely intelligent, like he's forgot more about machining in a week than most people learn in 2-3 years.

[Anonymous No.1898606]

>>1898603
That's the kind of stuff you would tell to an apprentice you were teaching or a child. Teaching the young just comes naturally to some people.

[Anonymous No.1898607]

>>1898606
I'm talking more about his general mannerisms
It's very unique

[Anonymous No.1898615]

>>1898607
It doesn't seem that unique to me, I'd probably do the same.

Maybe I'm an autist too or something.

[Anonymous No.1898699]

>>1898615
Seems normal to me too, am I on the spectrum?

[Anonymous No.1898944]

>>1898699
maybe it takes a special kind of autism to talk to a camera instead of a person?

[Anonymous No.1898947]

>>1896485
HSS blanks are fairly cheap and can be ground to make tools.

[Anonymous No.1899474]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1Dp2AHlvCw

[Anonymous No.1899525]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkvFtlTEuSc

BAT custom raffle actions

[Anonymous No.1899535]

New tool libraries for fusion 360, if you haven't checked in a while.

https://cam.autodesk.com/hsmtools

[Anonymous No.1899578]

What skills should you have for an entry level CNC job?

[Anonymous No.1899670]

God what a pain in the ass.

re: >>1896458

[Anonymous No.1899825]

This is more of a /k/ question but that board is just the dunning Kruger effect on infinite repeat so I'm asking here. I see the proper way to mount a scope is by holding rifle in vise, leveling barrel in x and y, then putting scope on and measuring with x and y. To me this sounds like a process that introduces several opportunities for error on my part because I'm not the best with fine touch mechanical skills. I was thinking instead of using a bridgeport and indicator dial. Hold rifle in vise, Sweep the barrel, indicate it in, reference check receiver, then sweep the scope and dial it in. Has anybody tried this?

[Anonymous No.1899835]

>>1899825
None of those surfaces would be worth indicating off of, even if they were, if the point is to somehow zero the scope through precision machinery, I think that would require some NASA like equipment to have something that precise where you are adjusting for a couple inches at 100 meters. Am I not understanding the point? Why wouldn't you just put the scope on like normal and zero it like normal at the range?

[Anonymous No.1899849]

>>1899825
>Hold rifle in vise, Sweep the barrel, indicate it in
If the barrel has a taper theres no point

[Anonymous No.1899852]

>>1899578
Entry level CNC jobs require no skills, I worked in a shop where they hired dudes from temp agencies who were dumb as a brick.
The real trick is convincing your job to invest the time and money training you so that you can ascend into a higher role.

Listen to me carefully, in a lot of shops there is nowhere to go, no skills to learn, no higher roles. Dead end, hiring unskilled dudes to pay them nothing until they leave, 100% a revolving door.
If you land an "entry level CNC" job, you need to quickly asses whether you have a realistic shot at moving up. If you get stuck in one of those terrible shops, all your ambitions will be exploited and you will be ground into dust until you quit and they replace you with someone new. When shops treat low end employees as expendable, they love the guy who goes above and beyond and will take you for all its worth.

Cut all the bullshit out, get an apprenticeship where your ambitions and hard work will actually pay off, instead of hoping you can work your way up the ladder when half of the shops wont actually allow it.

[Anonymous No.1899865]

>>1899835
This is just for mounting it, not zeroing. These are different things

[Anonymous No.1899869]

>>1899835
Mounting a scope and zeroing a scope are two completely different things. Mounting it is the physical process of bolting it to the gun. Zero is adjusting the crosshairs for windage and elevation at a desired range. If you just say fuck it and throw a scope on and bolt it down tighter than fuck without double checking anything then holding or even getting to a 0 is going to be much harder.
https://youtu.be/8rFOtmWqBUI
This is a 6 minute video on alignment, leveling and proper torquing specs just for attaching the scope. It involves honing the rings and adjusting each ring relative to the other also. It's much more involved than most people on /k/ know

[Anonymous No.1899969]

>>1899825
unless you're super autismo bench rest shooter that's way too much work. when I mount scopes I put a bubble level on something that should be perpendicular to the action like bolt rails, a flat top, part of the tang, or whatever you can find. then put another bubble level on top of the elevation turret and rotate the scope until they look the same. then tighten the ring screws and boresight.

[Anonymous No.1900181]

>>1896458
god what a pita i even sliced my finger open trying to get the bearing stack on the shaft somehow

damn near back together, already better than it was before too.

[Anonymous No.1900185]

>>1896457
I never saw one of those fail
Check your seals, it should be only old grease and air from factory that assembled it in there
I saw cast iron and brass swarf chew through seals so it might be materials you machine

[Anonymous No.1900186]

>>1897173
would buy/10 but check if its single or three phase before you do, changing over might not be worth it if you don't have 3 phase at home

[Anonymous No.1900188]

>>1900185
actually it didnt fail, it was just loose because 20 years old and tightening the preload nut wouldn't fix the side to side play.

it's more rigid now, pretty beefy setup for something manually operated.

[Anonymous No.1900195]

>>1900188
I never saw one get loose too, is there some sort of locking mechanism on tension nut?
Something ain't right for sure, 20 years is fairly new machine by my standards
I fix old mazaks often, some are mid 80s and probes are always spot on

[Anonymous No.1900206]

>>1900195
yeah the nut does have locking screws of which all of them have disappeared somewhere except for one.

odd.

[Anonymous No.1900212]

https://newatlas.com/materials/proteus-non-cuttable-bike-lock-armor/?mc_cid=b0b4e8dcc1&mc_eid=985c43a5ca

[Anonymous No.1900233]

>>1900206
probably vibration, make sure machine is sitting firmly on floor with all feet
only machine I saw shake itself apart was sitting on thin concrete floor on top of loose sand that was slowly collapsing
nothing to do but readjust legs every 2 weeks

[Anonymous No.1900242]

>>1900233
or the maintenance crew at the place i bought it from got ahold of it

[Anonymous No.1900330]

I'm looking at a part with a true position requirement for a threaded hole to an OD.

How do I check a threaded hole's parallelism/perpendicularity/squareness?

[Anonymous No.1900342]

>>1900330
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqC_r_crwgg

maybe something like this

[Anonymous No.1900474]

>>1900212
Im not convinced that embedding ceramic into metal is a great way to stop a grinding wheel.
Itll stop a hack saw sure, but you can only "cut" ceramic with grinding wheels in the first place. Their test didnt look all that convincing, an angle grinder would eat through a bike lock made with it.

[Anonymous No.1900706]

>put quarter inch endmill into radial live tool
>interpolate 1/2" hole in aluminum
>half thou press fit or less on 1/2" pin

I think I need to align my live tool drive again since I had to take it out to align the turret, there is a high-pitched noise when running live tools. What are the chances I will lessen the life of the bearings on my live tools running it without perfect alignment?

[Anonymous No.1900717]

>>1900474
they say it also creates bad harmonic vibrations at the same time, for all I know a grinding wheel might explode trying to cut it

[Anonymous No.1900922]

Great now I just need a new hydraulic hose to go with my unobtainium tiny set-screws in between leveling the headstock so it doesn't vibrate at 3k rpm and aligning the live tool drive so it doesn't whine.

[Anonymous No.1900929]

>>1900922
Just about ready to have someone run a gas line to my furnace for this winter too.

[Anonymous No.1900958]

>>1900922

[Anonymous No.1901312]

So how much is a datron like in this vid?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgqCY3gUHcM

[Anonymous No.1901314]

Anyone here have a wm210v with the big spindle bore?
Thinking of getting one for hobby shit
>inb4 get used, get big, don't get chinese
Stfu, i just wanna make brass cannons

[Anonymous No.1901317]

>>1901314
They are just like every other small chinese lathe
Rough, weak, expensive, youll spend a month cleaning and tweaking and fixing it before you even start to turn anything.

[Anonymous No.1901319]

>>1901317
Do you actually have one

[Anonymous No.1901322]

>>1901319
Nobody is going to have that particular model of lathe on here, but they are all the same.
What makes you think this one is special or different?

[Anonymous No.1901325]

>>1901322
Do you actually have anything of aubstance to say or are you just retarded
How do you know no one has it, how do you know they're all the same
The great thing about it is that it's actually already in canada and i dont have to lay an extra retarded tarriff because some retard in office decided a economic war is a bright idea

[Anonymous No.1901331]

>>1901325
>Do you actually have anything of aubstance to say or are you just retarded
I gave you the honest, factual answer. I also gave you the same honest factual answer last time you asked the same exact thing in this general.
Just because you dont like the answer, its reality. Why did you think the answer here is going to be different than anywhere else on the internet?

>How do you know no one has it
Ive been in this general since day 1, the same exact people hang out here. You can start to tell certain people by how they post shit and especially when you see their machines. There have been a lot of lathes and mills posted in here, even chinese, and I have never seen one.
The reason you arent going to find anyone posting this particular lathe, because if you are buying a benchtop you are buying a small cheap one.
If you are dumping $1500 on a benchtop you arent buying that fucking thing, youll buy a 10x22 or something twice the weight for the same price.
But it doesnt matter, the quality throughout their lines is all the same.

>how do you know they're all the same
The castings come out of the same 2 factories in china. Dont you remember me showing you the Grizzly thats identical? Did you not see the Bolton one, or the littlemachineshop one when googling?

[Anonymous No.1901343]

sup machine bros

Im a guitar maker and im trying to come up with a new way to attach guitar necks to guitar bodies.

ive drawn up a little picture of what im trying to do, i basically need a way for the red cylinder to both raise and lower into the black cylinder (Both will be aluminum) by adjustments of an allen key in the bottom alone. The red cylinder will be attached permanently to the neck and will need to be completely removable from the black cylinder when the strings come off for transportation.


Any ideas?


thnx budz

[Anonymous No.1901344]

>>1901331
I asked IF SOMEONE HERE HAD ONE. Someone on /int/ did so im checking if they're here
I dont care if its shit, a 10x22 is literally twice the price at 3k cad, the grizzlies, the boltons, and the littlemachineshops all have tarriff premiums added
AAAAAARRHH holy shit you're autistic

[Anonymous No.1901347]

>>1901344
>I asked IF SOMEONE HERE HAD ONE.
Like I said, it literally doesnt matter if you own that particular lathe or not. The same problems exist in every machine.
What exactly do you want someone to say to you?
That the last 20 year track record of quality in their machines has suddenly hit a huge 180 now that they have been tarrifed and their raw material prices have exploded in the last 2 years?

Youd get further if you had an actual question or point you wanted to hear about.

[Anonymous No.1901352]

>>1901344
Also this is an american website, Grizzly has that particular lathe right now for 1350, when there are about 5 other heavier and much better lathes for around 1500. My reasoning isnt wrong especially for the demographic of this thread

[Anonymous No.1901354]

>>1901347
Is this what you do? Answer questions no one asked? Im curious about certain parts like the quick change tool post being from amazon not being completely compatible. Shit like that that is specific to the model, and can be answered by someone who actually owns one
>>1901352
your reasoning is retarded. Suck dick

[Anonymous No.1901361]

>>1901354
>Is this what you do? Answer questions no one asked?
What do you expect when you post a vague prodding question about something? You get common knowledge about that something.

>Im curious about certain parts like the quick change tool post being from amazon not being completely compatible. Shit like that that is specific to the model,
The QCTP mounts arent made to fit any specific machine and need modified in most cases. Anyone who has ever bought one could tell you that.
Are you also the guy who posted a while back asking about the QCTP for the 8" chinese lathes, then got a thorough answer for it?

>your reasoning is retarded. Suck dick
Im not sure telling people to suck their dick is going to get you anywhere.
You came in whining and saying to "stfu" from the beginning.
Not making a good impression of yourself anon, do you think we wont remember the canadian buying the off brand generic 8" lathe going forward?

[Anonymous No.1901366]

>>1901361
There's nothing vague about asking if someone had one
>Are you also the guy who
Nope, also who gives a fuck about impressions on some off brand diy board
What are you gonna do? Cancel me? Are you some unironic jannie?

[Anonymous No.1901370]

>>1901366
You figure people who have been in this thread and asked questions more than once would want to assimilate. We usually dont get children throwing around insults and getting mad about stuff honestly. If you dont even know how a QCTP works, you are clearly going to need help. Why mark yourself?
Going to go to /int/ for help? Reddit?

[Anonymous No.1901375]

>>1901370
Sorry i dont go around going we and us and acting like some dumbass thread officer
Fuck your assimilation, dork.

[Anonymous No.1901382]

>>1901375
Im not stopping anyone from helping you in this extremely slow general. But I dont think coming in, marking yourself as an asshole is going to get others to bend over backwards to help you either. Especially since you dont understand the steep learning curve you are about to jump into.
I thought Canadians were supposed to be considerate?

Calling me a dork is really uncalled for. For all you know, I could have a ton of experience in non-dork activities like building replica brass cannons.

[Anonymous No.1901388]

>>1901382
For all i know you stick it up your ass when no one's looking

[Anonymous No.1901392]

>>1901388
Hey, you arent wrong. The beautifully polished ramrods I make to go along with my very non-dork, extremely sophisticated brass cannons do fit very well into my anus. They hit the prostate in just the right spot.

[Anonymous No.1901440]

>>1901343
Red cylinder solid, threaded in the middle
Then just do like any other bolt on guitar.
Recess a hole in the body, put a washer and stick the bolt into it to clamp it down.

You can put a groove in the bolt, stick it through the washer/flange, then use a C-Clip to capture the bolt to the flange. Then screw the flange to the body and the bolt wouldnt fall out when you pull it apart.

[Anonymous No.1901443]

>>1901312
probably like $50,000

[Anonymous No.1901447]

>>1901440

I think i understand, my main question though is that i want the neck to be adjustable both up and down and stay in place once the bolt is set. this is exclusively for archtop guitars.

There is one other builder in scotland that does it this way but he wont reveal his secrets.

Thanks for the reply though, let me know if you already answered my question, i think your way will allow the neck to sinch down tight, but not allow the other way of travel (up)

i may be over thinking it.

[Anonymous No.1901452]

>>1901343
download Fusion 360, do a tutorial on basic modeling.

you start by drawing a 2d sketch by making circles or rectangles or lines, then press "Q" to extrude it into a 3d body.

[Anonymous No.1901455]

>>1901447
it looks like a relatively simple technical problem once we know what we're looking at.

[Anonymous No.1901459]

>>1901452
>>1901455
ive got fusion 360, im not great at it yet but i tried to do a simple drawing for you here. My solution has been to trap the bolt head so it cannot move up or down, that way i figure it will only move the cylinder i want.

Am i retarded? is there a simpler way to do this? i just want all parts to be serviceable and removable once the guitar is built, i have no idea why this is making me scratch my head so hard.

ive hollowed out the top cylinder for weight reasons, i figure the bottom part of the bolt head trap could be threaded on rather than welded for service incase the bolt strips etc.

[Anonymous No.1901465]

>>1901447
>my main question though is that i want the neck to be adjustable both up and down and stay in place once the bolt is set.

Ooh, thats going to be a lot more involved, especially dealing with the pivot.

>>1901459
You to need to pivot the whole mechanism as it goes up and down. The way its written, it will be perfectly fine only to tighten the neck down tight, and to bring it straight up and out for assembly.

That drawing will not hold half adjusted halfway up, there is backlash in threads and it will jiggle its way around as you play.

Your top threaded cylinder needs to be redesigned.
Look into AntiBacklash nut designs, and apply them to a very fine V thread with a very strong spring. You want it to move and then bind and stay put tightly

[Anonymous No.1901466]

>>1901465
Also keep in mind, anti-backlash nuts are 99% of the time used in ACME and Ballscrews, they are made to NOT bind but freely move.
You want to apply the idea to V threads which DO bind and hold loads.

[Anonymous No.1901468]

>>1901465
>>1901466
thank you very much! i will look into backlash, the neck is under tension via the strings, i wonder if that would work in my favor or not, i will likely have to experiment with prototypes and see first hand what its doing.


Youre the man

[Anonymous No.1901479]

>>1901468
The more im thinking about it, you wouldnt want any pivot points, it just needs to go straight up and down, and being under the string pressure, extra backlash nuts may be overkill.

Are you planning on turning your own parts down on a lathe, or trying to buy off the shelf stuff?

[Anonymous No.1901480]

>>1901479
i think you may be on to something though, it does seem that over time it could jossle itself down a thread or two which isnt ideal.

Im hoping to just send some numbers/sketches to a machine shop and have them turn/thread the pieces for me.

[Anonymous No.1901592]

>>1901312
lol I guessed 50k but it's probably more like $150k

https://cncmachines.com/datron-neo--2017/l/3733

[Anonymous No.1901599]

Any tips to get into tool and die?

Is there any way to gauge my aptitude without time on a machine? Like how much of manual machining is hand eye coordination?

[Anonymous No.1901612]

>>1901599
>Any tips to get into tool and die?
Walk into different shops and get an apprenticeship

>Is there any way to gauge my aptitude without time on a machine?
No, and you arent expected to know anything. Thats literally why apprenticeships exist, to train people who have 0 experience.

[Anonymous No.1901723]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFUlBtfbpEM

Time to do this again I guess.

[Anonymous No.1901784]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Al1lpUKCMP0&feature=youtu.be

I bet this thing isn't supposed to be loose, is it?

[Anonymous No.1901907]

What are some of your go to jig setups?

[Anonymous No.1901986]

>>1901612
Yeah, but I meant like how to know if I'm gonna end up being a capable machinist at the end of the apprenticeship. Like are there any innate talents that are required?

[Anonymous No.1901992]

>>1901986
>Like are there any innate talents that are required?
Good with basic math, maybe trigonometry but not really useful anymore depending on where you work. Being mechanically inclined is also useful, being able to visualize parts in your mind is also good, being able to partially or fully visualize assemblies is even better, being able to understand how parts interact with each other. Being good at problem solving is a must but most importantly you should find this stuff interesting and love learning new things, machinist never stop learning. I knew a master machinist of 50 years whos touched just about anything and everything, and he was still learning and solving new things.

[Anonymous No.1901994]

>>1901992
Thanks for the response! That makes a lot of sense.

[Anonymous No.1901995]

>>1901992
Oh also, is there any money in tool and die? Is owning your own shop the end goal for most guys?

[Anonymous No.1902002]

>>1901995
>Is owning your own shop the end goal for most guys?
Some do but from my understanding machining is a cutthroat business and the margins are thin. Problem with machining is the requirement to have a lot of expensive machines and tools, and a place to keep them. Compared to a welder or plumber who needs a van full of tools to start a business, its a lot harder and machinist typically make less then other tradesmen. Some still manage, there is some people in this thread who have their own shops.

[Anonymous No.1902017]

>>1901986
>but I meant like how to know if I'm gonna end up being a capable machinist at the end of the apprenticeship

Youll know if the trade is for you within the first month

[Anonymous No.1902074]

do they sell thread cutting dies for square threads?

[Anonymous No.1902122]

>>1902074

They do!

[Anonymous No.1902252]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4krVVg73qE

HP 3d printer

[Anonymous No.1902320]

Guessing 5 thou of runout is too much for the hydraulic actuator back there?

[Anonymous No.1902500]

Anyone ever adjusted the runout on a hydraulic actuator?

[Anonymous No.1902575]

Uncle bought an old ass german cnc machine and i barely got it working sine i do the milling and the other workers old boomer asses dont know computers
Kid brother learnd how to make programs but doesnt know everything
Problem is, when the machine is milling a curve, it goes to each coordinate of the curve, instead of gliding in an arc, he says he knows only to set 2 G modes, mode GO or 0 is for loose non cutting movement, like approaching the piece or moving to another point, and G1 is working movement
When doing a cure, the machne goes, stopps, goes, stopps dotting its way down the curve instead of gliding like i see on internet with cnc machnes
He mentions G2 and G3 but doesnt know how to code them via solidCam
Machine is pretty roughed up as is, ut if it cntinues dotting ts way around curves, the brakes on the x and y axis' will get rekt eventually from all the stopoing and goingesoecially at high feed rates

[Anonymous No.1902643]

>>1902575
so it's creating jerky movements trying to interpolate an arc or something?

[Anonymous No.1902646]

>>1902575
G code can be manually modified in a text editor. We were taught that way as beginners.

[Anonymous No.1902682]

Has anyone been able to get decent TIR from those cheap Chinese ER-11 spindles?

[Anonymous No.1902701]

>>1902682
ER-11 spindle? Like a collet chuck? I don't know the only one I've bought is an Iscar and it's super nice.

[Anonymous No.1902724]

>>1902320
test indicator lever arm doesn't look parallel, may be a bit less than .005

[Anonymous No.1902764]

>>1902724
It's pretty parallel, I just haphazardly set it back up like that for the picture.

[Anonymous No.1902767]

>>1902643
Yes, it does the job tho
But it might ruin the axis brakes in fture
>>1902646
Sometimes the program is ovr 500kb long with over 9000 a more lines
I cant govern the whole thing

[Anonymous No.1902769]

>>1902701
The spindle motors that come with ER collet chucks

[Anonymous No.1902779]

>>1902767
i dont know anything about solidcam,but it doesnt sound like you guys do either, so find some filter setting in your toolpath, and increase the tolerance on the line segment filter to something bigger and that will get smaller programs, and if you can output circles, something is wrong, check your post processor for that probably

[Anonymous No.1902799]

>>1902769
The chinese dont even get good TIR out of all those collet chucks made to go into large machine tools where TIR matters a whole lot more. They arent going to put any more time or effort into accuracy in those spindles they throw into cheap routers.
Buy from amazon and return the bad ones till you find one that wasnt made on a monday or friday

[Anonymous No.1902814]

What do you think would be the best way to get an AXA mounted drill chuck square and on center?

Just a note, the AXA boring bar holders, you can throw a TTS tool holder in and it fits so you can throw in collets holders and chucks and anything like that.

[Anonymous No.1902845]

>>1902814
put a gauge pin in the jaws and sweep it with an indicator

[Anonymous No.1902848]

>>1892664
I want to add a basic (gravity feed from reservoir, manual valve) flood coolant system to a saw, but I don't have experience sourcing the parts. Where can I find those positionable ball-and-socket spray tubes, and/or what are they called? Same for any miscellaneous doodads that would be reasonable to include.

[Anonymous No.1902947]

>>1902848
Its called "loc-line" but just searching for flood coolant on amazon will bring up a bunch of chinese ripoff locline stuff.

How is your gravity feed going to work?
Why dont you just get a pond pump at harbor freight and a 5 gallon bucket to power it all?

[Anonymous No.1903017]

>>1902947
you get some real flow from like a sump pump anon, I don't think that's the right application for an open (unguarded) saw

could just sit a bucket above the saw with some small loc-line to let it leak onto the blade.

[Anonymous No.1903021]

>>1903017
The small pumps dont put out as much as you think, and if you have any sort of drip pan itll work fine.
Do you just plan on letting coolant fall into the ground?

[Anonymous No.1903030]

>>1903021
it ain't my project and obviously he would have to put it back in the top reservoir

it would be a mighty small pump

[Anonymous No.1903037]

>>1902947
>Its called "loc-line"
Thank you, that let me find everything I need.

>How is your gravity feed going to work?
Elevated bucket to hose to Loc-Line assembly attached to base of saw to catch basin under the saw.

>Why dont you just get a pond pump
Coolant will be needed rarely. The coolant system will spend most of the time drained and blown out, and the saw is portable, so I want to minimize size/weight/complexity of stuff attached to it.

[Anonymous No.1903096]

how do i eject chippings from the bottom of a deep ass hole when drilling down over 150 mm?
the drill clogs and the whole thing farts and i get upset thinking it will break but it never does

[Anonymous No.1903104]

>>1903096
>pull drill out
>put drill back in

[Anonymous No.1903105]

>>1903096
perhaps a chip break where it doesn't feed up or down but stops pushing down long enough for the flutes to move more chips out of the hole?

or just a retract "deep hole" drilling cycle if the material won't mind re-entering the cut.

on some tool steel and stainless stuff a chip-break is better to use though.

[Anonymous No.1903215]

How do I get the position to return to the Z home after Z probe zeroing? I thought I had this working with:
>G30 Z0.0
But when I try this now, it keeps crashing because it wants to go down to to 0 while the probe is still there, then it goes up to home.

[Anonymous No.1903220]

Is there a particular reason Fusion wants a full retract after each layer in adaptive then starts ramping from really high? I have some small shaped pockets that aren't much bigger than the helical ramp, and I'm wondering if there's any downside to reducing ramp clearance. It spends about much time ramping into air as cutting the layers now for these pockets.

[Anonymous No.1903256]

I saw a used cnc mill nearby for sale for less than 1000$, but it needs 22KW power i just have 12KW at home. If i replace the main motor with a smaller one would it impact performance signficanty?

[Anonymous No.1903273]

>>1903256
define signficanty
because usually losing 50% is considered pretty fuckin horrible

[Anonymous No.1903301]

>>1903256
What kind of mill is it?
It may be worth buying anyways

[Anonymous No.1903305]

>>1903273
>>1903301
12kw is still pretty darn big for the kind of person looking for a $1000 mill. Smaller motor just means lower MRR for big ass cut cutters.

[Anonymous No.1903383]

>>1903220
yeah you can lower the ramp clearance height as well as the "lift height" or "retract height" under the heights tab

or you can set the "max lift distance" or something like that to a larger distance so it doesn't pick up the tool so often

also "staydown level" to 100% or so should keep the tool down and cutting more.

[Anonymous No.1903384]

>>1903256
What the.. Please look into why the machine is only $1,000.

[Anonymous No.1903387]

>>1903384
Ive seen a lot of CNC mills that needed converted to modern controllers in the $1-2 like the 80s CNC bridgeports that fucking suck.
Its going to cost you $2-3k and a lot of work to convert it correctly though, its not always worth it.

[Anonymous No.1903599]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5rwu1mikig

^ fun tool room stuff

How the heck do I get walk-in repair jobs like this?

[Anonymous No.1903622]

>>1903256
Sorry i meant to say a CNC lathe, the controls are defect. Im already almost finished with converting an older CNC mill to three phase motors and new controls so i have a little bit of experience. The lathe would be cheaper than manual lathes here that are old as shit. If i can find a company that will ship this 3 ton monster im gonna buy it

[Anonymous No.1903822]

>>1903599
how many milimeters is one thousandth of an inch

[Anonymous No.1903825]

>>1903599
how the fuck would he have tied it down if the holes werent parrarel?

[Anonymous No.1903832]

>>1903822
0.0254

[Anonymous No.1903834]

>>1903825
parallel or not it would have gotten clamped to something like a sine plate or compound sine plate and then indicated in.

[Anonymous No.1903842]

>>1903834
i hate those so much

[Anonymous No.1903850]

>>1903842
the original "5-axis"

[Anonymous No.1903891]

>>1903599
i watched 4 videos of him already
this one triggered me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1W8xUj2VeBg
he should have used pic related for the hole be done with it on the mill in 2 hours instead crucifying the poor thing on the lathe

[Anonymous No.1903893]

>>1903891
I kind of doubt it affected the hole cylindricity.

[Anonymous No.1903925]

>>1903096
Drill for 3 mm then pull the drill back up
It would be ideal to cool the drill with air from a strong compressor so it can blow the chips out of the hole as well off the drill when being pulled up, dont use liquids because chipping says in the hole a lot
Kobalt drill tips are best for deep drilling
I know exactly the drill farting you mention, it starts after the 3rd or 4th milimeter of drilling when the drill is down over 40 mm deep
Drill for 3 and pull it back up

[Anonymous No.1903926]

if u drill it on the lathe you can use thru-tool coolant

[Anonymous No.1903932]

>>1903891
How do angkos call this thing?
Excenter head? Excenter scoop thing? Boring excenter head?

[Anonymous No.1903933]

>>1903926
Most of the drills that have the thru-tool cool holes are hardened drills that arent very long

[Anonymous No.1903934]

>>1903932
Boring head

[Anonymous No.1903936]

>>1903934
That is hillarious

[Anonymous No.1903938]

>>1903926
I like to send coolant thru the collet instead of using nozzles.

[Anonymous No.1903941]

Coolant in my machine smells of shit, vomit and bad breath

[Anonymous No.1903946]

>>1903936
Its an adjustable head that holds boring tools.
Its pretty on the nose

[Anonymous No.1903956]

>>1903938
but why? if u go thru-tool it will flush chips out the back of the hole better

[Anonymous No.1903957]

>>1903941
introduction of biological material can cause that, stop bleeding/spitting/shitting in the coolant tank

[Anonymous No.1903960]

>>1903956
Because;
A) They're expensive
B) My shop doesn't keep an inventory of coolant thru drills, we only have a few in a few different diameters, they're special use only
C) I don't think they make coolant thru drills in smaller diameters, ex: 5mm

[Anonymous No.1903965]

>>1903960
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/68177617

[Anonymous No.1903972]

>>1903965
A solid carbide one is half that, now imagine this, we keep a stock of 3mm to 12mm drills in .1mm increments, imagine how much more expensive that would be. Solid carbide drills work fine in most applications anyway.

[Anonymous No.1903977]

>>1903972
That is also a solid carbide drill with msc pricing.

I'm surprised they stock carbide drills for you, mine are all HSS except when I buy tooling for the specific job they are high-end.

[Anonymous No.1904048]

Anyone have some tips on how to make the most of a low stiffness desktop router? The tiny motor isn't a problem because it will vibrate like crazy before bogging down.

I'm wondering if I should try 4-flute on aluminum, the chips are so small due to low DOC it seems like chip evacuation might not be as much of a problem, but I'm not sure if higher flute count needs higher stiffness or just higher feed and higher power.

[Anonymous No.1904054]

>>1904048
When you have a low DOC and a high RPM motor (like 12k is typical in those things), the best thing you can do is buy 1 flute endmills.

The chips are small because your spindle is way too fast for your DOC and speeds. You are cutting and recutting your chips over and over before they are evacuated. This destroys your endmills and causes heat.
Ideally you would slow down the spindle, but when you do that the spindles lose all their power. So the next best thing is slowing down your surface speed by only having 1 flute

Going to 4 flute will make the problem worse

[Anonymous No.1904062]

>>1904054
High RPM is being offset by smaller cutters, the largest thing you can fit is 1/4". There's only so much chip that be made per tooth per cut when the machine only allows a tiny DOC and tiny stepover.

>So the next best thing is slowing down your surface speed by only having 1 flute
wut

[Anonymous No.1904068]

>>1904062
>High RPM is being offset by smaller cutters, the largest thing you can fit is 1/4"

The smaller the diameter of your cutter the FASTER the surface speed is. Smaller cutters is not offsetting the RPM, its making the SFM problem worse.

>There's only so much chip that be made per tooth per cut when the machine only allows a tiny DOC and tiny stepover.
Yes, which is why an insanely high SFM is problematic. Its not stiff, so you cannot take big DOC or fast enough feeds for proper chip load. You pretty much grind the metal into dust where no heat can be dissipated and it cant be evacuated.

>>So the next best thing is slowing down your surface speed by only having 1 flute
>wut

With a 4 flute endmill, you are taking 4 cuts per revolution, when your RPM is already way too fast and your chips are already way too small to effectively dissipate heat.
An effective way to cut down your SFM without slowing the RPM of the spindle is going for 1 flute endmills.
Its about the only thing you can do with what you have. Its still not ideal but it is better.

[Anonymous No.1904073]

>>1904068
>The smaller the diameter of your cutter the FASTER the surface speed is.

>An effective way to cut down your SFM without slowing the RPM of the spindle is going for 1 flute endmills.

You...don't actually know what "SFM" is, do you?

[Anonymous No.1904080]

>>1904073
I got mixed up and mispoke, SFM does increase as diameter of tools increase. Thats irrelevant to your question.

Explain why you think going to 4 flutes is going to fix your chipload problem anon

[Anonymous No.1904085]

>>1904068
>The smaller the diameter of your cutter the FASTER the surface speed is. Smaller cutters is not offsetting the RPM, its making the SFM problem worse.
Bruh

>Yes, which is why an insanely high SFM is problematic. Its not stiff, so you cannot take big DOC or fast enough feeds for proper chip load.
The machine has plenty of feed speed available, it's meant for wood or something. I can easily run it at 1-2 thou IPT even with 3 or 4 flutes. I'm trying to get MRR up while not running into chatter problems.

>With a 4 flute endmill, you are taking 4 cuts per revolution, when your RPM is already way too fast and your chips are already way too small to effectively dissipate heat.
I don't know the intricacies of heat generation, I just know my normal recipes aren't working for shit. Heat isn't even my problem now, the problem is lack of MRR.

>An effective way to cut down your SFM without slowing the RPM of the spindle is going for 1 flute endmills.
You really have no idea how to calculate SFM do you? Do you think it's RPM*Flutes/Diameter, because you seem to think it goes up when cutter size goes down and increases when flute count goes up.

>Its about the only thing you can do with what you have. Its still not ideal but it is better.
The problem isn't the feed rates it's capable of, it's not the SFM, it's not the RPM. The problem is chattering and trying to figure out how to improve maximize MRR with a machine that isn't stiff.

[Anonymous No.1904089]

>>1904080
That's not me. I didn't say I had a chipload problem. I said I had a MRR problem. The chips are tiny because the MRR is low.

[Anonymous No.1904146]

>>1904085
There re calculators for that ort of thing

[Anonymous No.1904151]

>>1904048
The only thing I've found that made a big improvement was using endmills with a reverse V-cut in the bottom (the very center of the endmill is higher up than the outer corner of the cutting edge). On regular flat endmills, the center has a tendency to rub against the material and keep shaking the machine. Single-flute endmills tend to inherently have a geometry like that, on two-flute you have to keep an eye out for it, usually aggressive two-flute carbide endmills for soft metals and plastics tend to have that kind of geometry.
For everything else, use a calculator, it will tell you everything you need to know. 4-flute is not very likely to improve anything.

[Anonymous No.1904156]

>>1904146
There are no calculators about how to deal with flex.

>>1904151
It's not that I have difficulty figuring out feeds and speeds, it's that I don't know how to optimize MRR when vibration is a huge issue. I'm a glorified button pusher, it's not my job to figure out recipes, and the desktop router is a toy. None of the recipes I know work on it.

I'm not asking how to calculate speeds and feeds. Half that conversation was because some moron was trying to lecture me about SFM despite having no idea what SFM was. I'm asking when you have a flexible machine, what's the best way to get maximum MRR while avoiding chatter. Adding another flute would let me up MRR/feed by 1/3 if it doesn't cause chatter. I'm trying to figure out what combination of stepover and DOC give max MRR without chatter.

[Anonymous No.1904305]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBU8_lHqA08

what autism is this? close-up view of a guy boring something by the tenth on a manual lathe?

[Anonymous No.1904307]

>>1904305
oh here he explains it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yugmw6rKc-Q

[Anonymous No.1904403]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDfyCX52YWo

damnit, if only I knew how to take off this damn hydraulic actuator I could be doing stuff like this.

[Anonymous No.1904488]

Why do people do boring of square pieces on the lathe when a mill can do it for far shorter time

[Anonymous No.1904490]

>>1904156
>There are no calculators about how to deal with flex
I tried explaining this to my cnc programmer but he is either on crack or has visions

[Anonymous No.1904497]

>>1904488
spindle on a mill is a lot weaker

>>1904490
gwizard estimates tool deflection

[Anonymous No.1904512]

Single nut Chinese C7 ballscrews or leadscrews with POM anti-backlash nuts? The Chinese ballscrews aren't that much more expensive and some people seem to really like them, but backlash seems to be 0.001-0.003" which seems excessive.

[Anonymous No.1904553]

alright i've got like 5 different quotes out, time for them all to want parts at the same time

[Anonymous No.1904573]

>>1904488
maybe they want the hole to be round
>>1904512
its probably rolled so it will be shit and sloppy, i doubt it will actually be c7 clearance.

>>1904048
fix your piece of shit machine
or do try some of this shit,
https://www.cnccookbook.com/chatter-in-machining-milling-lathe-vibration/

[Anonymous No.1904589]

I just started working in a machining shop after a paid traiing session
I barely know how to read blueprints but its not hard for nonidiots
There is one lathe, 4 deckel cnc mills from 90s, one old mill, one ancient grinding machine and one antique tooth scraping machine from nazi germany that is used for creating rough cut pieces and only one milling vice in the entire shop along with 5 eroding machines some of which work for 18 hours a day and some bulgarian comes to set them straight when they break
That company supplies 4 plastic injection machines with entire mold setups which are assembled by a 86 year old man and 2 of his 20 year old virgin apprentices
The programmer is 18 years old and doesnt know english
I am employed as cnc operator
Cnc mills have the tool magazine busted and rusted so all tool change is manual and all programs are separae for each tool
The coolant is brown from cigarette ash, blood, mucus, coffee, beer and probably piss
Coworkers are either retarded, autistic, schizophrenic or plain insane
They physically end up attackng newcomers that they dont like
The worse is the one that is my "tutor"
He is an alcoholic, drinks and smokes on the job, doesnt eat and wears same work clothes for over 5 yeas without ever washing them and never closes the doors and lers the coolant and chipping spray everywhere and stares at the action without ever flinching or dodging the purple/black chipping
I learn too much on the go and i cannot follow the amount of information that is literally raped into me
He forced me to get drk so he could teach me how to freehand create tolerance holes and see the hundereth of a mm with bae eyes
The shop looks like a scrapyard and smells like an abandoned morgue
The grinding worker smokes weed amd sometimes snorts speed
The mold assembly old guy shits himself every week and leaves
The programmer draws dicks with g0 on every program and wont explain himself
The boss is a schizo
I dont know if im in hell or if i love this job desu

[Anonymous No.1904634]

>>1904589
>The programmer draws dicks with g0 on every program and wont explain himself
based
not sure how you would do that nicely with g0 though.

[Anonymous No.1904802]

>>1904589
Sounds like an absolute shitshow.

[Anonymous No.1904845]

>>1904589
that is why people need girls at work

[Anonymous No.1904906]

>>1904573
Trying to fix that shit. Thanks I guess for the link, here's the article referred to in it.

https://www.prolim.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Chatter-Control-for-the-Rest-of-Us-Modern-Machine-Shop.pdf

Apparently material doesn't matter for this test, which is nice.

[Anonymous No.1904975]

How many W spindle do you need to mill steel? is 2200w enough?

[Anonymous No.1904993]

>>1904975
it is

[Anonymous No.1905004]

>>1904975
You can mill steel with 10W if you have the right settings, endmill and a rigid enough machine.

[Anonymous No.1905099]

Why is my industrial supply's website so shitty?

Anyone got another one?

[Anonymous No.1905100]

>>1905099
MSC, Fastenal, McMaster-Carr for starters. Those are the most common for professional shops. I use their catalogs to find what I want then search engines and ebay to find it cheaper.

[Anonymous No.1905117]

>>1905100
i meant a machine tooling specific one like carbidedepot or dbcindustrial

[Anonymous No.1905120]

Any reason to choose something else over carvesmart master jaws and jaw stock?

[Anonymous No.1905133]

>>1905120
just make your own

[Anonymous No.1905142]

>>1905133
master jaws or jaw stock?

[Anonymous No.1905190]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqLsNQc2It8

[Anonymous No.1905241]

>>1905142
why not both?

[Anonymous No.1905245]

what kinda shoes/boots u guys wear
I've been on my feet in my trail running sneakers and all the metal chips get into my shoes

[Anonymous No.1905251]

>>1905241
Because the sliding clamp parts end up making it close to final price in tools, and I don't have good 3d models to work with let alone toleranced dimensional drawings.

For what it is, I'm amazed they are able to sell it so cheap. "hardened" 4140 on the steel version, and parallel and square to within 0.0002" meaning I would probably have to grind it after machining too.

Could be quite a project if I don't even have the prints to work from. Also, it is a quality tool that I will use for job shop stuff, so that makes the price well worth it.

[Anonymous No.1905252]

>>1901447
theres probably pivot joints in the neck, is this so you can adjust neck angle? Why would you want to do that? Why not have it set?

>>1901343

I'm building an aluminum neck guitar right now

[Anonymous No.1905256]

>>1905245
red wings for sure, good quality shoes that last a long time. been needing to buy some new ones, but looks like I needed a carvesmart steel master jaw more.

[Anonymous No.1905308]

>>1905252
No pivot, this is mostly just up and down so that you can adjust the action and remove the neck for shipping. Or switch to a 7 string neck without changing the body.

[Anonymous No.1905689]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELyj23dTDnk

[Anonymous No.1905704]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S541yYfi-Kk

[Anonymous No.1905800]

Is it better to buy a $15k CNC machine or a $20k rental property?

What about commercial vs residential rental? Commercial right now is garbage but obviously covid won't last forever.

[Anonymous No.1905829]

>>1905800
Rental, builds equity. Plus it increases in value and doesn't depreciate.

[Anonymous No.1905874]

>>1905800
>or a $20k rental property?
In what 3rd world shithole do you live in where there is $20k rental properties for sale?

[Anonymous No.1905875]

>>1905874
rural 'merica

[Anonymous No.1905876]

>>1905874
there is a commercial place available listed at $22k, two-story with probably a living space on the 2nd floor and the bottom floor for a business. It's on main street but the parking is shit-tier.

Previously had an ecig shop there I think.

Also a single-family that needs a good bit of work for $20k, and probably central heat and air added judging by the window AC unit.

[Anonymous No.1906014]

I always see stuff being advertised as being made from "aerospace aluminum" but isn't that just 6061? basically all of the aluminum I've worked with is either that or 7075. what are the shitty alloys and what are they used to make?

[Anonymous No.1906074]

>>1906014
>isn't that just 6061
Yes, some different types like 3000 series, 1000 series, etc. Are used for different shapes and whatnot because they hold up better.

"Aerospace alloys" is just marketeering garbage for "it's made of metal"

[Anonymous No.1906090]

>>1906074
>>1905876
There are non aerospace alloys, cheap cast aluminum parts that are basically supposed to be a moderate upgrade from plastic in ridigidity and strength. I'm not sure if you meant 1000 and 3000 aren't aerospace, but normally they aren't. 3000 series has tons of formability for making soda cans. 1000 is basically unalloyed. Aerospace alloys means made of "structural" aluminum grades rather than potmetal grades.

[Anonymous No.1906091]

>>1906090
Also there are some marine grades which are are mostly designed around corrosion resistance.

[Anonymous No.1906351]

The grinding on these carvesmart jaws is amazing.

[Anonymous No.1906779]

>Fanuc 15M control'd Horizontal MC at an absolute bargain, fanuc drives too.

>all the nice productivity features like full 4th axis, chip conveyor, etc.
>50 tools
>pallet changing, 2 pallets + tombstones (I think)

But only 7.5HP and 6,000 RPM max.

[Anonymous No.1906780]

>>1906779
also

>40 taper

[Anonymous No.1906957]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnOdJTt4INY

lol wtf

[Anonymous No.1906961]

>>1906957
They made it play Katyusha? Just why?

[Anonymous No.1906982]

>>1906779
$15k mori horizontal is just so much of a better machine though. More travel, 30hp and 12k spindle.

Time to start selling some guns or something I guess.

[Anonymous No.1907001]

How exactly do I check runout of a drill chuck on a mill?
I bought a $100 taiwanese chuck that claims .002 TIR

I bought some gage pins, I get .0002 runout on my spindle taper, and in an R8 collet my gage pin runs out around .0015

With the drill chuck its consistently running out at .006 no matter which gage pin I use, no matter how many times I reseat anything.
Do I just not understand what im doing?
You can visibly see drills running out which prompted me to even check it.

[Anonymous No.1907002]

>>1907001
>in an R8 collet my gage pin runs out around .0015

that is too much, you should try different collets.

>>1907001
>With the drill chuck its consistently running out at .006 no matter which gage pin I use

yep something funky is going on, you shouldn't have over half a thou of runout on a gauge pin in an R8 collet...

[Anonymous No.1907053]

>>1900212
diamond tile saw, trough in seconds

[Anonymous No.1907161]

I bought my first Starrett product (just a chuck tap wrench)
It looks and feels so nice
came in a really nice oldschool cardboard box wrapped in brown paper
you could tell the tape on the box was applied by hand
it was so nice
i love it

[Anonymous No.1907348]

>>1907161
Good job anon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMi7dvgxeY4

[Anonymous No.1907511]

New edge precision anvil machining.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPtCNid2Ujg

[Anonymous No.1907650]

>>1906091
To add to this, aerospace alloys often sacrifice corrosion resistance for strength/weight, so they are sometimes clad in a thin layer of soft aluminum for corrosion resistance.

[Anonymous No.1907678]

>>1906780
At 7.5HP you're not going to be using anything bigger anyway.

[Anonymous No.1907688]

>>1907678
yeah I didn't buy it, it's on ebay if you want it.

$5k for a usable horizontal, hitachi seiki.

Just going to save up for the $15k mori horizontal just like the lathe I have, 4x the horsepower and 2x the spindle RPM, 2x the feedrates too.

[Anonymous No.1907761]

>>1904589
That is the best place on earth to learn the trade

[Anonymous No.1907764]

>>1906961
i like it

[Anonymous No.1907768]

Does anyone have blueprints for a milling vice that they dont really need?
Metric or imperial measurement, doesnt matter

[Anonymous No.1907805]

>>1907768
Do you really need dimensioned prints? What is the goal here?

You could private message the Orange Vise guy on practicalmachinist, he makes top-tier vises and a couple lower-end ones that are the high-end for companies like Kurt.
https://orangevise.com/

Those Mori horizontals seem to serve him well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAdqMI8U6fQ

[Anonymous No.1907822]

>>1907805
Those vises look based as fuck

[Anonymous No.1907882]

>>1907805
thx

[Anonymous No.1907890]

>>1907768
Milling vises are the classic project and there are so many what I'll add is make the largest one you can manage because that will save you the most money and have it use standard replaceable parts (Kurt etc) like vise jaws. When making jaws set up and make a pile of soft jaws. My professional machinist bro can buy them cheap but when the workload is light he has a junior machinist make a bunch of them from extra stock. Then he can customize those as needed.
If you can score used Kurts or good Taiwan clones needing an overhaul for cheap or modest money you can surface grind them to match (mark them by durable method like stamping to keep track of sets) and have pairs or more so you can use more than one vise for long parts.

[Anonymous No.1908447]

I have four ~.500 thick discs that are saw cut.
I need to face and bring all of them to the same thickness in a 3 jaw chuck.
How do I space it out from the chuck?
They are 5 inch diameter discs, I don't have any other stock that big and I had to saw cut it because I don't have a parting tool that big.
I'm afraid anything I stick between the workpiece and the face of the chuck will go flying

[Anonymous No.1908449]

Where on the internet can I buy a diy kit to build a CNC Foam cutter? Looking to cut some foam for soundproofing, diffusers, bass traps, etc.

[Anonymous No.1908465]

>>1908449
Something like that is going to be built from 3D printer type parts and controllers, you can probably find open source plans and files for one if you looked around.

[Anonymous No.1908574]

>>1908447
I space things off with a paralllel then remove the parallel before spinning it up, but they make dedicated lathe chuck parallels for that. abom used some once.

[Anonymous No.1908585]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zp_DT9oD9LA

[Anonymous No.1908780]

>N
>E
>W

>>1908778