/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1857148]

Learn How To Paint Already Edition
Old thread: >>1852286

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET (embed)

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 4-7-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2/X-Smart/X-Maker
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: lulzbot is (mostly) dead
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Elegoo Mars

Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users, that doesn't include (you).
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
http://www.autodesk.com/
http://www.solidworks.com/
http://www.openscad.org
http://www.freecadweb.org
http://www.blender.org/

Resins and their curing time.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?sle=true#gid=0

[Anonymous No.1857156]

Resin folks, is the smell permissable in the same office I paint minis in or is it heinous anus room unuseable for a day

considering a elegoo mars but I live in a 2 bedroom appt and Im concerned ill lose my office for a while if the stinks too harsh

[Anonymous No.1857163]

>>1857156
Whoosh out the window it goes.

[Anonymous No.1857165]

>>1857156

It depends a lot on the brand/model of resin, some smell stronger than others. I'd say the stuff i've used is about as permissible as opening a can of alkyd paint and leaving it on the table. The smell itself isn't horrible but it's not pleasant. It's similar to LOCA glue, if you've ever used that stuff.

[Anonymous No.1857180]

>live with my sick mother
>2 bedroom apartment
>don't wanna use the resin in my room due to the smell/toxicity
>don't have another place to use set up a printer
I guess I'll have to go FDM then, at least people have found some settings to get some really nice prints out of them.

[Anonymous No.1857182]

>>1857180
You dont have any windows to vent the smell out? All you need is an enclosure and a fan. Hell you can even use those cheap foil indoor gardening ones

[Anonymous No.1857184]

>>1857156
The lid will catch most of it but the best is to just vent it out a window. I built a cabinet to hold my fdm printer and resin printer with a big fan carrying smell out of the window

[Anonymous No.1857191]

>>1857180
You could do what I do and get a box fan and tape a MERV 13 filter to it (total is around 25 USD). That should get rid of the smell over time but the catch is that it can be noisy and you'll have to leave it on for quite a while

[Anonymous No.1857214]

Hey folks, i just got my Wash and Cure station from Anycubic and thought to share some pics from the inside.

The build quality of the unit is pretty good, it's very similar to the original Photon in that it's made of mostly milled anodized aluminium pieces and powdercoated sheet steel. The inside is more clever than i assumed, it uses a NEMA17 stepper motor for both the stirring and turntable actions. This explains why the stir bar ramps up in RPM instead of switching to full speed right away.

[Anonymous No.1857216]

>>1857214

The board uses an 8-bit STM8S003 microcontroller and has a very interesting solution for the buttons. They're just springs that flex slightly when you touch on the membrane from the outside, which (i assume) changes their capacitance and registers a click.

[Anonymous No.1857217]

>>1857216

The magnet bar on the motor shaft from the inside.

[Anonymous No.1857218]

guys I just bought this amazon.com/gp/product/B07LG2K55Q

for $329. did I fuck up?

what filament should I buy? this is first printer please halp.

[Anonymous No.1857220]

>>1857217

All the UV LEDs are on the same pcb and share a long heatsink. There is a fan blowing cool air at it from the bottom and another one at the top which takes hot air away from the heatsink and into the curing chamber.

I can see now why the price of the thing isn't much lower than that of full printers like the Mars or Photon - apart from the LCD the BOM is very similar. Still, considering the Prusa CW1 is nearly 5 times more expensive i'd say it's a great deal. It may not have the drying feature of the Prusa, but it offers something useful that the Prusa doesn't have - the ability to place the buildplate lower into the container so that you can use less IPA when washing short prints.

[Anonymous No.1857222]

>>1857214
Have you used it much? Im wondering if its worth picking up to streamline my post print process

[Anonymous No.1857242]

>>1857222

I just got it today, so i've yet to put it through its paces.

I'd say it's not a necessary tool, but once you have one you're going to prefer using it since you can move the buildplate from the printer straight into washing without touching any resin. The curing part looks to be more fiddly since you have to take out the IPA container and slot in a plexiglass turntable, but it's still better than flashing a UV light at the part manually or putting it out in the sun and rotating it every once in awhile.

[Anonymous No.1857255]

>>1857222
I can't speak for the Anycubic machine but after working with the Form Wash and Form Cure, it's MUCH less of a pain in the ass to post-process prints than it is by hand, even if you have all the buckets and bins and lights to do it manually. I'm probably going to get the Anycubic thing when I start using my Photon again.

[Anonymous No.1857260]

I'm thinking about getting a Peopoly Moai laser SLA printer.
Does anyone know anything bad about this printer?
It's pretty attactive for this price, barely over one grand and a DIY kit.

[Anonymous No.1857300]

>>1857260
I know nothing about the printer but I've looked around a bit and it looks like its printing really well.

It looks cool as well.

[Anonymous No.1857319]

>Have ender 3 pro
>X-axis is wobbly on the side opposite of the extruder
>Can't tighten it up because screws are just stripped enough that it slips
That line at the bottom (left) happens on every damned print and I'm thinking it's the wobbliness. Pls what do?

[Anonymous No.1857324]

>>1857260

Not about this printer in particular, but laser SLA printers in general aren't quite as accurate as MSLA for really tiny details because of the laser spot size. They also can take longer per layer because the shape needs to be drawn out in a similar way to FDM. On the flipside you won't have to worry about LCD longevity.

[Anonymous No.1857353]

>>1857319
>Stated problem and cause of problem
>Asks what to do

Replace the screws so they stop slipping.

[Anonymous No.1857354]

>>1857353
How exactly am I going to unscrew stripped screws?

[Anonymous No.1857359]

>>1857354
Use a bit of rubber band to help engage the slots
Very carefully dremel a better slot.
Very carefully drill them out.
Glue a spare screw driver to the screw so you don't need the slots.

Replace the whole component.

[Anonymous No.1857368]

I have finally mastered the art of the MMU2S ;^)

[Anonymous No.1857374]

Got a monoprice mini delta, put it in the basement and I've been cranking out the prints. Only one mini-SD card I have worked with it at all (it's notoriously finicky) which game me two cards including the OEM card it came with. I've been swapping cards back and forth as needed since the computer is upstairs. A few prints ago the OEM card stopped working. I've tried several files, and formatted it, but no dice it just says "no Files on card" when I try to use the printer.

Any ideas? I formatted Fat32 which was as the internet advised AND it was the card that came with the printer. What do?

[Anonymous No.1857376]

https://3dfused.com/product/ender-3-ender-3-pro-xz-axis-linear-rail-kit/
Can anyone vouch for this

[Anonymous No.1857378]

>>1857374
>monoprice mini delta
Cool, what are you printing with it?

[Anonymous No.1857385]

>>1857374
Just buy a new SD card, 2GB cards cost like 5 bucks.
The cards that come with chink printers for free aren't the most reliable ones.
The one that came with my Ender was dead within a week.

[Anonymous No.1857393]

>>1857216
>has a very interesting solution for the buttons. They're just springs that flex slightly
No. I've seen these before in an induction cooking plate. The springyness is just to ensure proper contact with the surface that you touch.

[Anonymous No.1857400]

what are some essential "you're going to do them sooner or later" things for a new CR10?

its my first printer, and I want to GET GUD with it.

is this useful to have with it?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M7X1KYY

[Anonymous No.1857427]

>>1857400
Probably only a BL Touch, anything else isnt really needed to make good prints. What I would recommend is to buy the maintenance stuff like spare nozzles, a 0.4mm needle to clean it and some sort of better filament holder.

t. CR10 V2 owner

[Anonymous No.1857599]

What's the best paint to use for models and stuff. I don't like how easily acrylic comes off.

[Anonymous No.1857626]

>>1857599
Pretty much your only other choice is enamel. Acrylic shouldn't be coming off if you've cleaned and primed properly unless it's something that sees heavy use

[Anonymous No.1857633]

>>1857626
I mean it goes on but you can easily just scratch it off with your fingernail or something.

[Anonymous No.1857638]

>>1857633
Then yeah, your surface either isn't clean or you don't have a primer that works well with the substrate. It's never going to be a permanent bond on every surface or anything but if it's fully dry and you can scratch it off without too much effort, something's wrong.

[Anonymous No.1857651]

>>1857638
Just out of curiosity are you talking about fdm prints or resin? Because I'm having trouble with resin using the standard Apple Barrel brand acrylic.

[Anonymous No.1857656]

>>1857651
Either/or. I've painted both; on FDM prints I've used Rustoleum 2x for both ABS and PLA; for resin prints I use 2-3 coats of Vallejo's surface primer (since it's a bit thinner, it works well with airbrushes, but needs more coats if you use a brush) and I can't get that shit off. I probably could if I *really* tried, but it sticks damn well.

Make sure your resin prints are *thoroughly* cured and dried, uncured resin is a known cure inhibitor for a variety of materials.

[Anonymous No.1857658]

>>1857651
>>1857656
Handled this thing to no end while painting all the details and didn't have to touch up anything. I was using Vallejo and Citadel paints though; I stopped using Apple Barrel a long time ago after I figured out they were crap for smaller pieces. See my commentary in >>1855147.

[Anonymous No.1857661]

>>1857656
>>1857658
Well I know my print are cured and clean so I guess it's just the paints I'm using. I was just using a standard rustoleum primer underneath. Guess I'll stop by a hobby shop and try some paints actually made for models.

[Anonymous No.1857662]

>>1857661
Got you covered
>>1855256
>>1855257
/tg/'s /wip/ thread(s) are also super helpful if you care to visit them.

[Anonymous No.1857675]

>>1857662
Yeah I even tested it just now. I had a model that's been painted for days. If I push hard enough and then drag my thumb it just pulls the paint off. It's not bonding at all.

[Anonymous No.1857694]

>>1857378
D&D stuff: tents, boxes, barrels, single and double doors, a mini "party", compass roses for D&D maps, first player markers for board games, a pug dog.

Currently working on pic related, it's for my daughter's favorite stuffie. Speaking of which, is this from the bed shifting? It seems like a translation error, and no other reason I can guess at these layers for it to fail like this. The bed is borosilicate glass covered with blue painters tape, so my guess is the glass shifted on the bed- it's attached with double sided poster tape which has worked great up until now, and was tight as ever when I removed this print. This isn't the longest print but it's close.

[Anonymous No.1857764]

>>1857218
why didnt you get the v2?
Same price with essential upgrades.
the base cr10 is still a good machine for $300 tho, get some hatchbox if you can find it, tune your printer with a couple small prints and try to ramp up the speed without ringing. once you get the printer dialed in for PLA you can pretty much go wherever you want.
thingiverse's top weekly has some good models. start with the benchy. post results. most slicers should have preconfigs for the type of CR10 you got, try that out first.

>>1857324
yes but that only applies for small printers, the larger the bed, the higher resolution projector/display is required for printing (meaning large DLP printers are expensive and large MSLA printers are low res). Laser reaches a cost/performance sweet spot where the moai printer is.

>>1857385
better than the moniprice, my old wanhao rebadge lost the entire port after a couple months, a fillsize adapter could have saved it...

>>1857400
same person as the first reply prob, look for a gear'd extruder like the bondtech clones, but its not really needed unless you see major slipping or want to print semiflexables (which creality can't because their shitty hotends cant hold Capricorn without a mod, dont buy TPU unless you want to spend some time/$ to mod the hotend)
for essential mods, threaded rod is cheap and makes a good frame like the V2, a blower fan and duct, a 32bit board swap is ~$50 to 75 for high speed and S Curve acceleration (removes most ringing). removable bed? They don't really need a lot of mods despite their popularity since they print decently, just creature comforts.

>>1857662
They told me to get games workshop paints instead of vallejo, I cant trust them anymore after wasting $40 extra on paint I could have gotten in a set.

[Anonymous No.1857794]

>>1857368
cute owl anon

[Anonymous No.1857801]

fuck. anyone willing to try it out? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32986027011.html

[Anonymous No.1857806]

>>1857400
Nothing. Buy nothing for the new CR10. Gittin' gud at 3d printing is about experience and skill. When you see morons like me making good prints with their Ender 3s that have glass beds, custom ducts, and fancy extruders it's not because of that stuff that the prints come out great - they were just an expensive lesson that you can't buy what you have to learn.

[Anonymous No.1857809]

>>1857801
A colleague of mine tried two Chink Duets, they work fine. YMMV depending on the seller, though.

[Anonymous No.1857811]

>>1857809
the different style of fuses concern me, but once it hits amazon with a price competitive to the SKR+TMC combo I'll recommend it

[Anonymous No.1857820]

Very tempted to get an Elegoo. I already have a small FDM printer and thinking of going with resin since I might be doing miniatures for an established franchise that wants to get into D&D games so they require the precision and detail.
Should I just go for it? It's dirt cheap but the curing part and disposal of waste is what worries me.

[Anonymous No.1857841]

>>1857764
>yes but that only applies for small printers, the larger the bed, the higher resolution projector/display is required for printing (meaning large DLP printers are expensive and large MSLA printers are low res). Laser reaches a cost/performance sweet spot where the moai printer is.

Laser SLA doesn't scale too well either, beyond a certain angle i imagine you start to get distortions in the laser spot resulting in an oval instead of a circle. Formlabs addressed this by changing their setup to have the laser sweep only one dimension and mounting it on a moving gantry.

Also the Moai's build volume isn't that much larger, at 13x13cm the build its similar to having two Mars/Photon screens next to eachother. At the same ~70 micron resolution you can get a 4K-panel Phrozen transform with a larger build volume than the Moai, if that's what you're after.

[Anonymous No.1857845]

>>1857841
I guess that display tech why they moved to Phenom

[Anonymous No.1857858]

>>1857148
Relatively new and currently diving into 3D-Printing head first since my father gave me his before Corona-Chan got him, despite still learning the ins and outs I wanted to outline the scope of the general capabilities and if different models are limited in what they can and cannot do aside from the obvious size and laser precision differences, can I:
>Print sheets and/or blocks of alloyed metals?
>Print out specific filaments outright such as carbon fiber plating?
>Print solidified forms of specific chemical compositions?

Most importantly:
>What are the current capabilities of printing organic matter? (Pic related)

[Anonymous No.1857859]

>>1857858
You're gonna need a couple hundred thousand bucks for most of the things you just listed.

[Anonymous No.1857866]

>>1857764
>They told me to get games workshop paints instead of vallejo, I cant trust them anymore after wasting $40 extra on paint I could have gotten in a set.

What the fuck, really? the common consensus is to use Vallejo; use Army Painter because it has good washes and Scale75 if you are more experienced / like to do lots of wetblending.

[Anonymous No.1857867]

What is your go-to filament brand right now? So far I've only used chinkshit off Amazon. I'm tired of shit quality chinesium. I want to invest in some higher quality filament after this roll.

[Anonymous No.1857873]

>>1857867
Hatchbox hasn't given me a problem and I print in the lowest recommended temps. The wood filament just looks good.

[Anonymous No.1857875]

Direct laser SLA is easily scalable in speed, its as simple as multiplexing your lasers rather than being caveman with only one laser. You can create pretty dense laser arrays to direct write.

[Anonymous No.1857885]

>>1857873
Gone through 2 rolls of Hatchbox, Gray and Black. No issues with either, so at least I know it's there if I need it.

[Anonymous No.1857943]

>>1857873
Reprapper filament is cheap but it comes out great.

[Anonymous No.1857950]

>>1857867
I like push plastic, their abs feels a bit softer but also tougher than hatchbox. Hatchbox feels a bit more brittle, but also warps less. Something about the blend I guess?
I have some maker geeks stuff but I don’t remember what it’s like. I think I got some recycled filament from them but didn’t realize it calls for higher temps, like nylon temps.

[Anonymous No.1857952]

>>1857214
>>1857216
>>1857217
How easily would it be to DIY a larger version of this? It's just a stepper motor and some magnets?

[Anonymous No.1858025]

>>1857952

Depends on what you want it to do - if you just want the wash function you can just get a magnetic stirrer or look up how to make one. If you need the full wash+cure functions you can use an 8bit 3D printer board like a Ramps or a Melzi, stepper, LED driver and some UV LEDs with a heatsink. And custom firmware to tie it all together. LEDs and heatsink fan would be driven with the bed mosfet and fan pins on the board, while any of the stepper drivers can spin the motor in either the fast "wash mode" or the slow "turntable curing mode". You will also need some sort of lid to put ontop of it while it's curing, to shield yourself from the UV light. I toyed with the idea of using a soup pot for that...

I was seriously considering making this, but in the end decided to just get the premade thing as it would've required some time and effort to design and build and i don't want to add yet another DIY project to the pile of still-unfinished ones.

[Anonymous No.1858028]

For UV curing, I highly recommend baking your part instead of using extra UV. Just rinse off in solvent, dry off, then 150C in an oven for about an hour. Your part will be MUCH more cured that tickling it with shitty uv leds, and it works on opaque resins too.

[Anonymous No.1858034]

>>1857858
Sorry to hear about your father, anon.

To get straight to the point, assuming you're posting here looking for consumer and not professional hardware, can you:
>Print sheets and/or blocks of alloyed metals?
No.
>Print out specific filaments outright such as carbon fiber plating?
Debatable. You can't stick just anything with the right size into an extruder and have it work.
>Print solidified forms of specific chemical compositions?
Arbitrary ones? No, unless you make your own filament, for which the machine is usually 2-3 times the cost of the printer itself.
>What are the current capabilities of printing organic matter? (Pic related)
Usually either paste extruders or something that uses a gel medium as scaffolding with a long syringe to inject material directly into the gel. "Bioprinters" are still a niche since most consumers wouldn't use them.


tl;dr, what >>1857859 said, pretty much.

[Anonymous No.1858122]

>>1857867
Extrudr for Greentec and Greentec Pro, Sunlu for PLA and PET-G

[Anonymous No.1858147]

Guy makes huge 3D printer, it's an i3 style, what is wrong with him?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ru5N2d2n_4c

[Anonymous No.1858153]

>>1858147
The acceleration on that thing must be agonizingly slow

[Anonymous No.1858156]

>>1858147
its the easiest and cheapest style kinematic to pull off and the other types have their own problems at that size.

whats a real issue on these gigantic printers is the heated bed
you either have separate heating zones (bad) or heat the whole thing every print, looking at 1kw power draw for possible days of print time

[Anonymous No.1858165]

Well this is some shit. How does this even break?

[Anonymous No.1858168]

>>1858165
Probably suctioned onto the buildplate. I usually put a small piece of electrical tape on a side of the screen to prevent suction from happening

[Anonymous No.1858171]

>>1858168
onto the build plate? You mean as it was running?

Because I noticed this when I tried to take the vat out to figure out why my thing misprinted

[Anonymous No.1858176]

>>1858156
>separate heating zones (bad)
Why so? I'd imagine if you have them calibrated it'd be better than heating the whole surface, no?

[Anonymous No.1858180]

>>1857858
sorry about your pops bro.

[Anonymous No.1858184]

>>1858165

My guess is that the hot LEDs softened the 3M doublestick tape that holds the lcd in place. Glass probably got stuck to the FEP from moisture and the thing got detached when you lifted the vat. Just stick the LCD back on, if its not broken.

[Anonymous No.1858185]

Are you telling me this is a non-electrical, non-connected lens?

[Anonymous No.1858186]

>>1858185
not sure how I lost the link to >>1858184

[Anonymous No.1858192]

>>1858185
Not him, but it's not a lens (unless the Photon S is different), it's only something meant to keep the resin from seeping down in case of a spill and to keep the actual lenses free from dust. Wipe it off thoroughly and pop it back into place and you should be good; if the tape's wrecked you might need to replace it, but you can also do without it.

[Anonymous No.1858193]

>>1858156
Whatever problems a corexy will have the prusa style cartesian will multiply it. The bed already scales disproportionately in mass as it is by area but you'll have to make it thicker to stop drooping in the middle under its own weight. CoreXY or top mounted cartesian, you just get thicker extrusions. Yeah, you might like multiply the mass but the cross sectional moment of inertia of a wider area profile scales disproportionately so the stiffness improves disproportionately higher than mass.

Let's look at Misumi's 2020 extrusions.
>cross sectional momentum of inertia 0.742x104mm4
>mass 0.5kg/m

8080
>cross sectional momentum of inertia 129.1x104mm4
>mass 4.57kg/m

The cross sectional momentum of inertia is inversely proportional to deflection so it's literally hundreds of times stiffer for about a 10x increase in mass. Provided its own weight introduces a load but it's a better situation than making a moving Y-axis bed bigger in every direction because it will be significantly more massive.

[Anonymous No.1858204]

>>1858185

No, the LCD is attached to the glass. Actually looking at the photo again it looks like you tore off the brown flat flex cable that connects it to the mainboard... Time to order a new screen. Those lenses at the bottom are just for the UV leds.

[Anonymous No.1858206]

>>1858165
The LCDs are consumables.

[Anonymous No.1858211]

>>1858204
>>1858206
Fuck, I'm stupid, I forgot about the fact it's the LCD that does the masking as well. Disregard >>1858192, that would only be valid if it were a projector and not MSLA.

[Anonymous No.1858217]

>>1858211
>>1858204
>Surface that is likely to get tugged on accidentally
>Can't see it below the resin vat it gets stuck to
>Mechanically fastened? What's that? a more expensive way to glue something down???
Fucking chinks

[Anonymous No.1858288]

>>1857867
I've been a big fan of 3d solutech

[Anonymous No.1858292]

>>1857820
its not as bad as everyone makes it out to be, just wear gloves and keep the printer near an open window while it printing
I haven't worked with the mars as a machine but I use elegoo resin in my photon exclusively

[Anonymous No.1858316]

>>1857820
The curing part is easy, just get some UV nail curing stations. The disposal part is a little harder but you can just put it into a baggy and cure it, then it's a stable plastic you can toss. Otherwise you can give it a hazardous waste disposal when they have a free day. Most counties in the areas of the US that actually care about that shit will have one, because basic paint stuffs like paint thinners and acetone need to be disposed at the same places

[Anonymous No.1858414]

I'm looking to print some parts that need to stand up to impact, heat, and cold. They should not flex. Would resin or filament be better for this? What resin or filament do you recommend?

[Anonymous No.1858421]

>>1858414
How strong? How hot? How cold? It all depends, anon.

[Anonymous No.1858427]

>>1858421
-15F to about 200F
A 4" cube of the material should be able to survive a 10' drop onto concrete without shattering or seriously deforming

[Anonymous No.1858432]

>>1858156
you dont need to heat the bed after the first 10-20 layers. it'd be better in a heated enclosure with a bowden or remote drive extruder so that no motors are inside.

[Anonymous No.1858434]

Sup FDMlets

[Anonymous No.1858446]

>>1858434
Your father must be very proud with your ever growing doll collection

[Anonymous No.1858467]

>>1858427
That combination's a bit difficult. 93C is a pretty high temperature for most FDM plastics, and I don't know how they behave at -26C because that's not something you see often. A solid 4" cube of that material falling from 10' is unlikely to be undamaged no matter if it's FDM or resin, but I'd try Formlabs' Tough series as a starting point; might be worth contacting their salespeople. Maybe nylon or polycarbonate filament is worth a go.

[Anonymous No.1858476]

>>1857161
4chinks wouldn't let me post this yesterday for some fucking reason, here are the files.
https://mega.nz/folder/q8VDUQTI#rxFJRdfngUYe1O2R0mOTZQ

[Anonymous No.1858481]

>>1858476
Fucking incredible, anon, thanks.

[Anonymous No.1858510]

>>1857867
I've been using Fiberlogy. For half the price of prusament and also having a 0.02mm variation limit and specifying the roundness limit it's pretty fantastic.

[Anonymous No.1858512]

>>1858476
Fuck now I want a resin printer to make gondola.

[Anonymous No.1858513]

>>1858476
does he hav a benis? :DDDD

[Anonymous No.1858553]

>>1858481
>>1858512
Thanks lads, I'll finish the whole group one day once life stops fucking me over and I get some free time to be able to set up and use my Cintiq again. I miss my Wu-Flu vacation.
>>1858513
If you're looking for Benis you might enjoy the Spürdo Barbarian.

[Anonymous No.1858577]

>>1858176
in what world is having hotspots on a plate preferable to uniform temperature.
>>1858193
as i wrote, desinging something like that takes a bit more effort, tools and knowledge than upscaling a cr10
On his understanding of the matter, did you see how he bolted the frame together, milled end on extrusion face with no shims? That gantry is not squared up in a million years. This is basic shit, not even chinkeallity botches that much
>>1858432
i disagree
depending on your build surface a hot printed part will snap off on its own when the bed is cooled down.
For PLA printing on a cold plate can work but a big part will be impossible to pull off

Now i gotta unclog my hotend AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

[Anonymous No.1858579]

Can the SKR kinda-sorta fit into the Ender 3 mainboard housing, or not at all? I don't need it to be pretty, but I can't be bothered to print a new case right now and I'm assuming it would be better than just having the board lying around in the open.

[Anonymous No.1858612]

I've been building my own FDM coreXY using aluminium extrusions and recycled anet a8 parts. Stupid thing is that I don't have a 3D printer to print a mount for the hotend. Managed a ramshackle solution using aluminium brackets. Hopefully I can get this shitty anet a8 extruder to print well enough to print a mount for a V6 hotend. Really wish the Aussies at Nimble were open for business because those remote direct drives look cool. Until then I suppose I'm just waiting for Hemera to release for E3D cucks.

>>1857180
is that solvent annealed ABS or something? FDM doesnt have that sheen normally right?

[Anonymous No.1858624]

1st ever PETG print (heat tower)
what absolute bonkers material, toplayer is glossy lika a bottle.Appears weaker than pure PLA but i can barely make out layer lines without flash or magnifying glass and dialing in hasnt even started...

[Anonymous No.1858633]

So I made a huge Majora's mask print in wood filament. I made it in parts because of course it didn't fit in my small 16x16 area.
The problem is that now I have lines where it shows the divisions. Can't I just take the wood filament, put it in the crevices and melt it with a lighter? I don't want to use a random wood filler that will have a clearly different color.

[Anonymous No.1858639]

>>1858633
Use the random wood filler and then sand the whole thing and stain it ya goof.

[Anonymous No.1858706]

are there glass bead thermistors with glass insulation instead of Teflon?

[Anonymous No.1858715]

>>1858633
Sounds like a great way to deform and melt random parts of your print and basically fuck it up

[Anonymous No.1858724]

>>1857867
3D Solutech gray PLA is top tier and really cheap the last time I bought it. Their white PLA was almost pure chalk and was unusable to me so I returned it. The Amazonbasics black PLA is really good, but the Hatchbox black PLA was gooey and awful just above its melting point out of my extruder. Case in point, keep a chart handy of what colors & what brands work for you. Some printers & locations can be very finicky.

[Anonymous No.1858739]

Anyone got any news of the Elegoo Saturn? Still butthurt from missing the preorder.

[Anonymous No.1858749]

>>1858739
>Monochrome 4k display
OHH GOD IM FUCKING COOMING
I'm sold.
When is this thing officially out? I didn't hear about it until now. Based Elegoo, I hope it turns out as good as it sounds.

[Anonymous No.1858765]

>>1858639
>>1858715
Yeah, ended up deciding to just use wood filler and sand like cray, the paint finish will mask it anyways.
Also, behold! My 3d printed pots!

[Anonymous No.1858779]

>>1858765
Nice as fuck.

The 3d printed plant pot idea is great. I'll 3d print an Oddish and have a real plant in it.

[Anonymous No.1858794]

Does this work for anyone else? I feel like I'm going absolutely insane because it doesn't do a goddamn thing for me. I've tried it with multiple different resins now. The part that blows my mind is that I see people saying that it works better than IPA for them. I completely submerged my prints in it and scrubbed them with a brush. This shit is trash but I just can't wrap my head around how other people say it's working for them.

[Anonymous No.1858798]

>>1858794
Personally, I'm using Mr. Clean and a toothbrush on Elegoo clear resin. Flawless results so far.

[Anonymous No.1858799]

>>1858798
Haven't tried that one yet. I wanted to give this a shot since so many people seem to be saying how good it is. It just doesn't seem to do much of anything for me. IPA just cuts right through excess resin and washes it off immediately. Almost too aggressively. That's what makes it so good though.

[Anonymous No.1858800]

Oi lads, I'm having a bitch of a time getting PETG to stick to anything besides the nozzle. Printing on blue painter's tape, I've tried from 75c to 90c heating the build plate, printing at 135c-140c, limited by that ptfe tube in my direct drive extruder. Microswiss steel nozzle. Is it my fault, or is this YOYI filament just chinkshit?

[Anonymous No.1858802]

>>1858799
Yeah, shame that shit is liquid gold right now. I'm lucky to find a single pint of 70% IPA these days.

[Anonymous No.1858805]

>>1857148
How good is that ender 3? Doing minis and ive seen the tabletop gm(?) say and show its pretty damn good. His is almost perfect detail.

[Anonymous No.1858806]

>>1858805
it's the best bang for your buck to get into sd printing. you won't get amazing detail for miniatures like you would with a resin printer, but if you tweek the settings you can still get good detail on a small level

[Anonymous No.1858824]

>>1858800
That's way too low. PETG's adhesion sucks if you print it with too low temperature.
The PTFE lining will be fine under 200°. If it's a high quality one you can go to 230° without problems.

[Anonymous No.1858827]

>>1858800
>>1858824
Fuck, that was a typo. I meant 235c-240c.

[Anonymous No.1858831]

>>1858806
Can i use pla or should i just spring for the pla+?
Is pla+ actual quality or just a meme?

[Anonymous No.1858833]

>>1858831
i've never used pla+, only regular shit, local reprap brand and esun. you won't need anything special to achieve what you're looking for if you get your settings right and use regular pla

[Anonymous No.1858834]

>>1857633
Did you get a sealer? You can use matte or gloss depending. It makes the paint stick hard, like even a wire brush and gas on the old pewter figurines wouldnt take all the paint off kind of sticking.

[Anonymous No.1858836]

>>1857764
Vallejo is your friend. Easy to mix and much cheaper.

[Anonymous No.1858838]

>>1858833
Thanks senpai.

[Anonymous No.1858859]

>>1858831
PLA+ just means PLA + whatever stuff the manufacturer added.

This makes different PLA+ brands very different, as everyone adds different stuff (and they keep it a secret). Mostly they add stuff to not make it snap.

Stay with PLA, PLA+ is a meme.

t. filament seller

[Anonymous No.1858939]

When did theses threads get full of snobs?
Is reddit leaking again?

[Anonymous No.1858942]

>>1858859
this is true but matte PLA+ mixes actually sands
t. user of filament

[Anonymous No.1858950]

I want to switch my ender 2 pulleys to 16 tooth, what firmware changes do I have to make? is there anything else to change?

[Anonymous No.1858975]

>>1858950
none other than recalibrating your steps, it's really simple to do, although I dont know if the ender 2 has a reflashable bios so you may have a bad time.

[Anonymous No.1858979]

>wire up SKR
>turn printer on, display turns on but is blank
>"hmm let me flash a firmware, maybe the factory one isn't configured right for the ender 3"
>download the fucking bullshit marlin needs, including fucking vscode because not a single guide mentions how to use the memeio building garbage standalone and I can't be bothered to dig through docs right now
>configure and build
>build fails with an error
aaaaa

[Anonymous No.1858982]

>>1858979
https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V2.0
there are preconfs made

[Anonymous No.1859023]

>>1858802
this stuff is about 99% IPA

[Anonymous No.1859027]

>>1858802
>>1859023
What about denatured alcohol?

[Anonymous No.1859044]

>>1858979
turn the display ribbon cable 180 degrees and walk away

[USA USA USA No.1859045]

>>1859027
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnGasVwkgMk

[Anonymous No.1859063]

>>1858794
You might just need to soak longer than you think you should. Consider getting an ultrasonic cleaner too; I personally use LAs Totally Awesome with a cheap jewelry cleaner, after about 6 or 7 minutes my prints end up looking sharp.

[Anonymous No.1859068]

>>1858939
its /g/. Every time there is a 3D printing thread someone redirects them here.

[Anonymous No.1859071]

>>1859068
>/g/
>buy stax
Plausible.

[Anonymous No.1859075]

Why in the fuck is this happening to me? I tried exposures at 14s, 18s, it's always failing at the same damn place. Even at 45 degrees, it fails at the same spot. What's worse is all that striping. Is something wrong with my z-axis?

[Anonymous No.1859078]

>>1859075
Sorry for that god awful picture, here's it again.

[Anonymous No.1859135]

>>1857156
The smell isn't the issue why can't retards grasp this.
It's organic vapour, you're breathing in the plastic equivalent of spraypaint.
Fucks sake.

[Anonymous No.1859161]

>>1859075
What printer is it? Could be a bad z-axis screw. It's a common problem on any printer and I'm not sure why these resin printers don't just use belt driven Z-axis. It'd be a lot simpler and cheaper.

[Anonymous No.1859172]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4047471

Printed the high res stone mask and scaled it up to 200% and it's looking good without paint thanks to the marble PLA I used.

>Captcha: Select all images with cars
What did they mean by this?

[Anonymous No.1859175]

>>1857400
Dunno if CR10 has the same issues as the regular Ender's pre-V2 but the only real necessary upgrades are replacing the springs (much easier to level), PTFE couplings (they break easily) and the plastic extruder for a metal one (PLA feed will saw through the plastic in a couple of weeks of regular use).
Maybe replacing the mainboard as well if it doesn't have the silent drivers (significantly quieter) and the PSU if it isn't a non-chink one.

[Anonymous No.1859210]

>>1859161
elegoo mars. Yes, I don't understand why they use the worm gear which isn't even secured at the top. It fucking wobbles if I touch it with my hand. I made the same print again but with a shit ton more supports, will update how it goes.

[Anonymous No.1859213]

Whats a good SILENT 12V power supply? My setup is almost impossible to noticed especially when idle, except for the VROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO of the power supply. Should I just swap the fan in it for a silent fan?

[Anonymous No.1859214]

>>1859213
atx with a high wattage would work, thats what they do on "silent" PCs

[Anonymous No.1859225]

Do these sensors just go fucky for no reason? My printer randomly started mushing itself into the bed so hard it rubbed the coating off the magnetic bed liner after months of working just fine. I adjusted the z offset by like 1mm and now it seems to be working OK, but I'm worried it will do it again. I couldn't find anything loose.

[Anonymous No.1859229]

>>1859214
High wattage with low wattage loads is inefficient though

[Anonymous No.1859230]

>>1859229
thats why you get an AX series, spend $400 for peak silence/efficiency

[Anonymous No.1859240]

>>1859214
>>1859229
>>1859230
Thanks anons

[Anonymous No.1859241]

>>1858794
buy ethyl lactate. works better and rinses off with water. not toxic or anything either and has a nice sweet smell

[Anonymous No.1859258]

>>1858624
>heat tower

Found your problem.
I went through kilos of PETG from various manufactuers without doing any test prints. My PETG go to settings are:
- Nozzle at the temp specified by the manufacturer
- bed 80°C
- fan 40%
- don't exceed 35mm/s

It's good stuff, I use it for most technical prints now.
I even made a PETG bottle cage recently which did not snap yet. (the previous bought ABS one by Elite™ snapped)

[Anonymous No.1859319]

>>1858975
yeah the ender 2 doesn't havea bootloader but you can add it but it's a pain, I have a MKS gen 1.4 board that I can add so I might go that route.

[Anonymous No.1859332]

>>1859258
seems like image posting works now

[Anonymous No.1859344]

>>1857218
Ayyy I got the same one, should be coming tomorrow. I guess I'm not the only one on here who got Bezos'd that day. Lurkin' trying to get some info. My plans are to make some more generic prints for a while to get some xp & get gud, then get a better hot end and bed upgrades to eventually print Dupont Zytel Glass reinforced nylon. Will the CR10 be able to handle that material with some upgrades? I use to have the data sheet handy but my bookmark to Dupont's material spec sheet 404d.

[Anonymous No.1859348]

>>1859210
It's a leadscrew not a worm gear. Worm gears turn at an axis tangential to another gear. Normally they don't support the top as a cheap way to try and isolate the z-axis motion from wobble caused by a warped screw. It's not a good solution but you're paying bottom dollar. You can ask for the store to exchange it or you can try buying your own leadscrew and try to replace it yourself, although I'm not sure what the specs are.

[Anonymous No.1859351]

>>1859258
>Extruder 225° - 255°
this brand assumes you're dialing in by yourself and dialing in is 90% the fun for me in printing. seeing the improvements gets addictive.

I guess my main problem right now is the thermistor reporting false values as i cant print cooler than 240°, but will check tomorrow
35mm/s is anemic slow. i consider 60 as my lowest setting for firm material

[Anonymous No.1859352]

>>1859344
a hotend swap would be needed, but that's cheap (<$20) and easy with a printed mount, there's drop-in all metal hot ends too, but IDK the price

[Anonymous No.1859404]

>>1859348
What exactly is the difference between a leadscrew and a worm gear?
>Worm gears turn at an axis tangential to another gear.
Maybe I'm a brainlet but what exactly does this mean and how does it not apply to leadscrews?

[Anonymous No.1859427]

>>1859404
A worm gear drives a helical or straight-cut gear for speed reduction. It also prevents the output from free-spinning or applying reverse-load against the drive source. So when the drive motor isn't spinning, the driven side can't rotate at all.
The thread profile for a worm gear is usually pretty different when compared to a leadscrew. Worm gears have a wide diameter difference between their major and minor in order to allow the gear teeth to engage them fully and will obviously have to match the pitch of the output gear.

[Anonymous No.1859432]

>>1859427
I get the differences in purpose but didn't see any fundamental differences. "Thread" depth sounds like a big one, makes sense. I can see as well the thread profile is different, the worm's tooth is conical/trapezoidal while a leadscrew's thread would be rectangular. I hadn't considered those details.

[Anonymous No.1859465]

>>1859427
It may seem simple but once you go globoid shit gets real.

[Anonymous No.1859474]

>>1859432

There isn't a huge fundamental difference. It's a convention of usage.

Leadscrew "leads" a nut
Worm gear drives a toothed gear

There are differences in thread profile and depth for the sake of optimization, but I've used a length of ACME leadscrew stock as an expedient worm in a pinch.

Fun fact - if you file properly across and through the threads of any screw stock, you can make a cutting tool that will machine it's own profile into cylindrical stock to make a very effective matched worm-gear.

[Anonymous No.1859478]

>>1859465
That's unreal

[Anonymous No.1859491]

Anyone know a good intro to blender sculpting course/video?

[Anonymous No.1859500]

>>1859491
>>>/3/

[Anonymous No.1859503]

>>1859500
Sweet, thanks, I didn't know about that.

[Anonymous No.1859505]

My electronic key holder is coming along nicely.
The key can only be turned and removed when the solenoid inside is energized.

[Anonymous No.1859535]

>>1859505
This is for a chastity cage, isn't it?

[Anonymous No.1859749]

[Anonymous No.1859756]

>>1859210
Fellow Mars owner here. It's definitely Z-axis/carriage wobble. Some improvements can be made with printable mods. There's a good mod for the top of the lead screw that reduces the squashed early layer issue. Ultimately, the printer just doesn't have a good linear Z-axis, so unless you spend more than the printer is worth on the linear rail upgrades, stick to figures and short objects.

[Anonymous No.1859806]

Put stronger springs on my ender 3 pro bed. Definitely needed. Was having to adjust the bed every print. Now it holds level. Just waiting on my pla+ so I can print some fun stuff.

[Anonymous No.1859808]

>>1859756
>Doesn't have a good z-axis
>That's the only axis it has
Chinked

[Anonymous No.1859855]

>>1859351
>Extruder 225° - 255°
That means you should use 240°C

>thermistor reporting false values
Don't blame PETG for your broken printer

>35mm/s is anemic slow.
No, it gives you repeadedly great results. Going 70mm/s doesn't make it twice as fast anyways because of jerks. Going slow is important for high strength so the material has enough time to fuse with the previous layer.
You can't print PETG as fast as PLA

[Anonymous No.1859887]

>>1859855
>defending 35mm/s
cope

[Anonymous No.1859893]

>>1859887
>he doesn't print 1.2 over 0.8mm @ 30mm/s
Extrusionlets, when will they learn?

[Anonymous No.1859900]

>>1859749
Impressive! Where did you get the model from? Also did it take long to be able to paint well?

[Anonymous No.1859912]

>>1859900
Please don't encourage him, this guy is the biggest shitter on here.
Takes you probably a day to get this good, he took 6 months and still doesn't know how to prime his models.

[Anonymous No.1859932]

Hi, i'm new to 3d printing, but I'd like to get involved so that I can try out different keyboard case designs cheaply.
I have experience in metal fabricating. I have a few questions:

It would be cheaper for me to use a cnc router to mill wood or acrylic as I can buy the consumables locally in bulk. the
case designs are not so complex as to require 3d printing.

I have an inexhaustible supply of waste black silage wrap from farming.
can this be melted down into pellets and reused for 3d printing.

I'd like to keep cost down by making my own metal frame. Given that I could weld the entire frame in one piece with the
equipment i have from mild steel what is the most appropriate design to use as a base.

are there any through hole stepper drivers to make repair easier. I dont have a parallel port so it will need to be usb
and linux compatible.

is there any advantage in the adjustable nature of the threaded bar mendel design. It looks to be one of the easiest to
build from scratch, but i'd like to have it use a worm instead of the timing belts to do double duty as a mill and printer.

[Anonymous No.1859936]

>>1859932
>can this be melted down into pellets and reused for 3d printing.
probably not. pellet printing is afaik in its infancy and your spare/waste plastic probably isn't good enough.

from the sound of your post, it doesn't make sense at all for you to get into 3d printing. mill them out of wood, it'll look nicer anyway

[Anonymous No.1859938]

>>1859855
i wasnt asking for advice, just posting something i had on hand, but i will give you some perspective
>use 240°C
temp is primarily depended on throughput and secondary on part geometry
>Going slow is important for high strength
that does absolutely nothing for fusing WHY SHOULD IT? If you have more throughput, up the temp by 10-15 degree and get the exact same result
>You can't print PETG as fast as PLA
depending on the printer you can print as fast as real 150mm/s, and printing slow is poison for small feature sizes. Youre cucking yourself
>1.2 over 0.8mm
what works for you is absolutely incompatible with my needs. I print at 0.1 for optics and smooth walls

>>1859932
>I have an inexhaustible supply of waste black silage wrap from farming.
printing plastic has to be pure and not spiked with mold and dirt and unknown additives

[Anonymous No.1859941]

>>1859936
That's what I figured. Thanks. I should mention I have two scanners that I can no longer use. Can I re-use the rails from them, also there is a hydraulic ram company near me, can I use a chromed bar from rams or would it be too difficult to find a compatible linear bearing?

[Anonymous No.1859953]

>>1859941
you probably won't get a good answer here. we can barely put together our premade kits correctly

[Anonymous No.1859955]

>>1859938
>printing plastic has to be pure and not spiked with mold and dirt and unknown additives

yea, the plastic is stored clean or the won't collect it. i could wash off any straw. I was thinking about melting it down and filtering it through a wire mesh. I doubt microscopic contaminants make a big difference, the main issue would be that 3d printed plastic melts at a low temperature.

[Anonymous No.1859959]

>>1859953
at least you answer though. I checked a thread at /r/3dprinting with hundreds of questions and no replies at all.

[Anonymous No.1859975]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwpA-kXdHy0

[Anonymous No.1859982]

>>1857694
pls respond, nothing seems to be wrong loose and the bed was solid as far as I can tell. monoprice mini delta same PLA I've been printing with the whole time. Anybody?

[Anonymous No.1859986]

>>1859982
i know nothing about 3d printing but from my research it looks like you missed some steps due to emf interference. not sure what the fix is, maybe put ferrite rings on all the stepper wires.

[Anonymous No.1859992]

>>1859986
>due to emf
to be fair that's pretty fucking specific and questionably reproducible. uhh, kind of like hearing hoofbeats and immediately thinking it's a rainbow lesbian zebra trotting.

[Anonymous No.1859993]

>>1859986
thats unnecessary, its a stepper motor
>>1857694
is the glass bed itself shifting? it looks like a belt slip or a missed step
what frame type are you using (I3/mendel or cube/darwin)?
is the slip only on a specific layer? if so try resliceing
are you using the sd card or USB/octopi? if USB try slowing down the rate of commands being sent,(not necessarily print slower, but the resolution of the printing/travel moves) or disable some features you have enabled, the printer might skip a command on REALLY dumb boards(anet/wanhao series printers).

there are many ways to have a skipped step, most can be repaired with a 32 bit BOARD SWAP or better stepper drivers.

[Anonymous No.1859997]

>>1859993
>is the glass bed itself shifting?
that was my thought- it IS only double stick tape which I'm surprised it so durable. the first "batch" lasted 6+ full prints and I had it out to change the painters tape/remove prints before feeling like I needed to swap out the double stick tape. The glass was centered and solidly attached after this print. still it seems like the most reasonable.

> it looks like a belt slip or a missed step
that was another thought, but this being my first print error I have no idea how to diagnose, check or correct- I haven't printed since but I did print a smaller version of the same helmet and I'm cueing up another version right now.

>what frame type are you using (I3/mendel or cube/darwin)?
Delta. everything seems tight without getting into the frame to check the belts. not sure that's necessary (thus the whole thread questions)

>is the slip only on a specific layer? if so try resliceing
haven't and won't print that exact model but I'm printing a slightly stretched version next. haven't printed anything else either.

>are you using the sd card or USB/octopi?
SD card. cura with monoprice mini delta settings from a user group.

>everything else
thanks, sounds like I'm still at "print (something) again and see if it keeps happening". hopefully just a fluke, I'm not quite through a dozen prints and only about half a kg spool of filament.

[Anonymous No.1860003]

>>1859997
>Monoprice Delta
>sdcard
you're good hardware/board-wise then, if filament usage on testing is a problem do a "vase mode" cylinder tower with a single wall, check your belts, it's probably a fluke.
deltas may also get the nozzle caught due to the overall lower current, so make sure that bed is stuck down.

[Anonymous No.1860011]

>>1860003
>also get the nozzle caught due to the overall lower current
I have a power brick upgrade in the queue - meaning an actual hard wired brick with a switch instead of the stock DC adapter. it's supposed to help it not struggle so much with bed heat and nozzle temp but I haven't modified it yet since it's been working.

[Anonymous No.1860015]

there is a Makerbot Replicator 2 for $500 locally. Looks new and I'm capable of repairs if something is fucked. Should I jump on this or pass?

[Anonymous No.1860018]

>>1860015
get ready to pay a lot for (mediocre) extruders (thingiverse may have a mount for a custom one), but its a good machine

[Anonymous No.1860020]

>>1860015
pass
they are old, dont run on g-code or marlin natively, dont even have a parts cooler and the closed frame is shit for maintenance.

This was the go to machine 5 years back when clones were sold new for 500$
But nowadays you get a chink core X/Y for that money

[Anonymous No.1860040]

>>1859912
Thats the SLAseether? This one looks better than his other models with the abhorrent FDM bases.

Can I get a QRD on painting tough? Also whats priming? (Im not a native english speaker)

[Anonymous No.1860042]

>>1859912
seethe, fdmnigger

[Anonymous No.1860043]

>>1860040
I think you're better off trying to ask in the /wip/ general on /tg/ there is already lots of info in the OP post, so check that out first.
>>>/tg/73625828
>>1860042
You're just mad because you lack the intelligence to properly use your FDM printer.
I own both, just like you, but unlike you my prints on both SLA and FDM don't look like absolute shit :^)

[Anonymous No.1860046]

>>1860043
>prints literal memes
>not shit
sell your printers and get medical attention for your low iq

[Anonymous No.1860099]

>>1860040
priming is a bottom coat underneath the paint. it's what you would do if painting bare metal before applying the paint. "primer" is a special paint that sticks to the surface and accepts paint really well.

PLA is very hard to paint, so primer is necessary. with a purchased miniature it depends on the resin or material they used, some you can just paint directly but others it just flakes off. whether doing PLA or resin 3D printing I would absolutely prime before painting.

also make sure you get primer and not primer + paint. some of them are a one step primer+paint and you do not want that for this.

>>1860043
/wip/ is notorious for absolutely loathing 3Dprintfags, thanks again to anime-house-paint faggot being a fagshit.

[Anonymous No.1860103]

>>1859900

[Anonymous No.1860108]

>>1859938
>>Going slow is important for high strength
>that does absolutely nothing for fusing WHY SHOULD IT?
exactly, I can't imagine why a heat sensitive material being layered on in small quantities would fuse better from melting / curing by a heat source spending more time near each layer especially while it's still hot either.

[Anonymous No.1860118]

I wanna sell my ender 3 on ebay and I allready threw away the box it came in. I want to shipp it fully assembled, so how do I prepare it so that It doesnt break inside the box?

[Anonymous No.1860123]

>>1860118
packing

[Anonymous No.1860145]

So how much setup and troubleshooting is usually needed for the chiron after assembly? Thinking of scrapping my shitter 3 and getting this one

[Anonymous No.1860155]

>Fuck up burning bootloader so I can't flash firmware
>Burn bootloader successfully
>Flash firmware successfully
>Install BLTouch Sensor
>Wrong version, doesn't work
>Fix 1 references code that doesn't exist
>Fix 2 is more code bullshit
>Fix 3 is desolder a capacitor, quick and easy
>Desoldering capacitor doesn't work, Fix 2 is the only one that is supposed to work
>Flashing firmware gets rid of bootloader
>Have to burn bootloader again

FUCKING FUCK
FIDDLY LITTLE SHIT JUMPER CABLES
GOD DAMN LITTLE NIGGER SHIT FUCKING GARBAGE
WHY DOESN'T ANYTHING EVER FUCKING WORK RIGHT GOD DAMN SHIT

[Anonymous No.1860163]

>>1857180
Printing great minis on FDM is so goddamn hit or miss, I spent so much time and money chasing that dragon, trying to get the quality up bit by bit before I finally said fuck it and bought an Elegoo Mars.
No regrets.

[Anonymous No.1860167]

>>1860155
Aww, is technology too hard for you? Try gardening, it is much more simpler and you only have to hold a stick.

[Anonymous No.1860168]

>>1858434
Your painting has improved, good job.
Now work on that ego

[Anonymous No.1860170]

>>1860118
Ship it with the chasis and all parts that wont move assembled. All the parts that are fragile but can be dissasembled/reassembled easily should be removed and sent in a small box within the package.

[Anonymous No.1860175]

>>1860167
>he is unaware of the extremely huge and valuable advancements in gardening that hobby gardeners have access to, including genetic modification, automation, fertilizer synthesis

[Anonymous No.1860212]

>>1860175
You just buy those and literally throw them on the ground. The technology part is already done for you

[Anonymous No.1860213]

>>1858476
Dangerously based and amazing, my dude. Your Zbrush skills are on point. You got a Thingi or MMF or Cults page?

[Anonymous No.1860329]

I can get an ender 3 v2, or an regular ender 5 for the same price. Space is not a problem.
Which should I buy?

[Anonymous No.1860353]

>>1857180
My Ender3 using CURA with the base PLA temp/settings etc. I think layer height was set to .2
Bottle cap for reference

[Anonymous No.1860355]

>>1860353
Strayafag, sorry. Pic is upside down.

[Anonymous No.1860456]

>>1860329
ender 5 every day of the week, the superior frame actually beats the base mk3 in printing quality, and I'm saying that as a creality hater. It comes with the same parts as the ender 3 pro so you're good on power supply and part quality too. Great board swap path too, bltouch and a glass bed would make an awesome little printer.

[Anonymous No.1860468]

is the Creality Ender 3 Pro good to print figurines with detail and stuff

[Anonymous No.1860470]

>>1860099
/wip/ was fine with them until that massive fag came along like, a few months ago. People were even impressed by nice resin prints and larger, well-done FDM models (like terrain or titans).

[Anonymous No.1860510]

>>1860470
>it was okay until non-whorefaggot40gay shit was posted
fixed

[Anonymous No.1860517]

With an unheated glass bed and gluestick,
Fresh glue for print, or, let the glue dry first?

[Anonymous No.1860525]

>>1860468
As long as you tune it right it? Definitely.

[Anonymous No.1860637]

I got around to dick around with my own slicer again.
I ended up rewriting the whole thing. Now i can set perimeters, top and bottom layers, infill%, theres retraction now. Still not user friendly.
Guess which one is sliced with mine.

[Anonymous No.1860638]

>>1860637

[Anonymous No.1860672]

>>1860637
>>1860638
cool. you plan on doing anything other slicers can't? I wish there was a slicer that controls laser engraving the printed part.

[Anonymous No.1860678]

>>1860672
look into the slicer for fusion 360, it may be able to overly laser sketches over 3d printed parts that can be sliced within fusion

[Anonymous No.1860679]

>>1860637
>>1860638
It's the bad one on the right, isn't it? Sort of funky how both ignored the flaghole that goes in the stern.

[Anonymous No.1860680]

>>1860672
It was mostly a challenge i set for myself. I dont think i can do anything that existing slicers could. If i would do something new (if i could) i would have contributed to existing slicers instead.

Laser engraving every layer? Or just the top?
I would do a post processor that interleaves the generated FDM and laser gcode.

>>1860679
Yeah its the right one, even tho i did retraction it still stringed a lot.
> ignored the flaghole
Yeah its not the classic benchy, i removed a lot of stuff that i didnt like on the original, like flag and rudder hole, back and bottom text.

[Anonymous No.1860682]

>>1860679
I noticed the bottom layers dont have the 3d benchy logo
>>1860680
fug

[Anonymous No.1860691]

>>1860213
Thanks man, I wanted to start off by releasing the entire group >>1858553 , should be done by the end of August, that's when I'm on vacation, I'll set up some accounts by then. Wish I had more time, they'd be done by now considering I started this in February, but shit just keeps piling up for me.

[Anonymous No.1860695]

>>1857148
I bought one of those knockoff BLTouches (3D Touch in my case) for my Ender 3 from AliExpress. I set it up today and all seemed to be working fine, except when I auto homed it, the motors kept going when I manually pushed the needle up, and I narrowly avoided a crash. I was under the impression that the setup would be the same as a real BLTouch, so I followed Yeaching Tech's tutorial. Using Marlin 1.1.9. Wondering if anyone has had a similar experience and could help me out.

[Anonymous No.1860716]

>>1859172
Dio pls

[Anonymous No.1860732]

Hey newfrens I just got an Ender 3 CR-10 and my first prints are getting spotting. It seems like the filament clogs and stops extruding. Do I need to adjust the build platform or the feed speed? I am doing this 100% blind other than the Engrish instructions that came with it.

[Anonymous No.1860737]

>>1860732
Make sure the esteps are correct and the ptfe tube is all the way in the hot end

[Anonymous No.1860770]

Whats the best way to push PTFE tubing? Its quite hard to get a good grip on it without damaging it

[Anonymous No.1860777]

>>1860770
that has been an issue I've never been able to resolve, I moved to all metal to avoid cutting and getting a firm connection.

[Anonymous No.1860783]

What are some rules of thumb for PIP and interference of parts? Like I'm drafting a simple clip rn and need to make an offset in the hole.

This won't be PIP but I'd like it to be tight.

[Anonymous No.1860791]

>>1860770
you can sand the outer tubing a bit to roughen it. Won't affect peformance.

[Anonymous No.1860793]

>>1860783
Most of the time I make a gap between parts of 0.1mm for a tight fit (requiring force to insert), and 0.2mm for a normal or loose fit. This is usually sufficient for the normal irregularities due to layers, rounded edges, ringing effects, occasional small blobs, slowing down on corners, etc... For small gaps, I take larger tolerances, based on experience, or after trial and error. For example, a 4 mm hole usually ends up as a 3.5mm hole. Then the best solution is to go through it with a 4.0 mm drill (manually!!! Never electrically, this melts PLA). Rounding bottom edges with a 0.5mm round, reduces elephant feet.
Printing slow and cool improves tolerances. Printing hot and fast makes it worse, since the pressure can not change immediately in the nozzle upon stops, retractions, etc. So that causes more irregularities in the print.

[Anonymous No.1860851]

>>1857867
I'm still a newfag to 3D printing, but I got some of the shiny blue Sunlu PLA+ off of Amazon and it printed nicely at 200C/70C with mostly defaults in Cura. Now that I'm almost through with it though I got some MatterHacker PETG.

[Anonymous No.1860867]

>>1860851
why 200º? also 200ºC is nearly 400ºF/204C.

[Anonymous No.1860871]

>>1860867
It's a PLA "plus" and for some reason the factory recommendation is 190C-220C. I don't know the specifics, but I know trying to print at 180 C which was Cura's default for PLA led to it not extruding right.

[Anonymous No.1860876]

>>1860871
I went through lots of filament with wrong recommendations, you're better off always printing a temperature test tower instead of relying on whatever the packaging says.

[Anonymous No.1860929]

Anyone know if I can set a separate layer height for supports in Cura?

[Anonymous No.1860931]

>>1860871
PLA plus/pro/gay uses additives to get a glossier/smoother finish, thus requiring more temperature. Rule of thumb is higher than pure PLA

[Anonymous No.1860933]

ender 3
switched to sunlu PLA+ and started to print with my old PLA+ settings (185 temp). After ~10 layers it stopped extruding. I cleared the nozzle and manually pushed some filament through, which finally dropped a big glob off.
I tried to print a temp tower and heard lots of clicking - an hour later, it's just moving the head and plate around with no extrusion and lots of clicking with a bunch of droplets on the build plate.
this is a clog? is there a good guide for cleaning one?

[Anonymous No.1860934]

>>1860867
dang I do 210C with inland pla, 235C with PETG

[Anonymous No.1860935]

>>1860933
Check'd, might just need a higher temperature. Ya have one of those super thin needle shits that you poke the nozzle from the other end?

[Anonymous No.1860939]

Why don't the FDM guys here use smoothed ABS for miniature printing?

[Anonymous No.1860943]

>>1860939
Detail loss, if you're printing at tabletop scales, and you can get a smooth effect on PLA with floor acrylic easier at the scales. Also ABS is a bitch.

[Anonymous No.1860951]

Anyone have experience pronting picrel and what was your experience

[Anonymous No.1860985]

Looking good so far.
My goal is making a independent duel extrusion printer with one print head for normal material and one head with a MMU2. I got these rails for cheap through my work, most of them are leftovers from bigger projects.

[Anonymous No.1860987]

>>1860933
You have a full blown clog in the hotend. Do a hot pull, get the PTFE out, do a cold pull with a piece of filament then do the hotend fix.
Use thing:4220059 and thing:3236093

[Anonymous No.1860991]

>>1860951
>unironically buying dupont
I wouldn't trust anything they say on the label

[Anonymous No.1861002]

>>1860985
>>1860985
very nice. is this a new open source printer? what's the final price gonna look like?
have you looked into various toolchangers? saw a cool one that used magnets + parking position.

>>1860987
ugh, that's what i was worried about. I should probably replace the nozzle anyway, i just didn't want to disassemble anything yet
how am i supposed to print these with a clog lol

[Anonymous No.1861006]

>>1860987
>>1861002
also, suppose i had to temporarily forego the hotend (stock) or parts cooling fan, for printing PLA+ at (i'm guessing) around 210.

>skip parts cooling
increase layer time and be wary of overhangs/bridges?

>skip hotend fan
it's not all-metal, and it's only PLA+...heat creep shouldn't be too much of an issue?

[Anonymous No.1861010]

fucking called it he reads these
https://youtu.be/Mw-Gg3y__Go

[Anonymous No.1861012]

>>1861002
>>1861006
Do what is described in the video on the thing, you don't need to replace the nozzle, you only need to clean it. If you loosen it you will unleash a whole new can of worms on your head.
Clean the nozzle with a simple cold pull then do the fix, it will work in no time.
Also use part cooling by default Cura settings. Work on the clog first, then worry about dialing in your settings.

[Anonymous No.1861013]

>>1861010
you can run this on a PI with the new duet 3 SBC compatibility layer, no wifi board needed.

[Anonymous No.1861017]

>>1861012
i've scraped a couple beds due to poor understanding of leveling, so i expect the nozzle tip to be damaged. Why is swapping the nozzle extra hard? All i know is to heat it up and crank the shit out of it

>>1861010
tl; dw, what's the biggest benefit? I saw some chatter about it previously but it sounds like such a huge overhaul that it's apples to oranges

[Anonymous No.1861020]

>>1857764
you can even print polycarbonate with it, put the print speed at max almost, double layer height and width, and tadaa!. reason why polycarbonate rips apart at layers is because they expand while cooling off, you need to create the extra room around it and it will stay put. It even will become see through. no heated box around it needed, no mods or anything.

[Anonymous No.1861024]

>>1861017
Mainly the interface and how it controls acceleration (https://youtu.be/qYJpl7SNoww)), In addition to full implementation of heating protection and a far better codebase for corexy and custom kinematic configs. the whole thing can be live edited in gcode and has a far better levelling data saving feature so you can do 100x100 grid points and reload them after doing a homing and tilt compensation operation. Multiple z stepper support also allows true automated bed levelling (I haven't touched a screw in 2 years and its still flat).
this is just the stuff I use on my own duet but it seriously made me hate marlin.
As long as setting up is not a bitch and a half with flashing firmware that you must assume will crash at any moment I see no problem in trying it out.

[Anonymous No.1861035]

https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Plus-3D-Printer/dp/B0814BT9WL

Are there any good builds that would have comparable quality and size to this?
Basically I'm looking for:
-Minimum 300 x 300 x 300 mm build space
-Capable of using most plastic filaments, especially polypropylene

I'm tempted to just buy the damn thing but want the fulfillment of building one if I can make one of equal/better quality for around the same price.

[Anonymous No.1861039]

>>1861002
No it's my own design.
It already has two heads with a potential of 5 extra matrials and one primary material.

The costs..... I don't want to think about. It needs a duet2 with a duex5, 5 rails and rail carriages.

[Anonymous No.1861114]

Anyone here dicked around with printing a lower for a 5.56 weed whacker?
Curious if PLA is what they usually use, ABS is a pain in the dick and I havent really ventured into PETG yet.

[Anonymous No.1861116]

>>1861114
PLA+ is what det_disp has been using. There's been a thread on /k/ lately.

[Anonymous No.1861117]

>>1861116
Oh sweet, Sunlu PLA+ is what Ive been buying the last year or so. May get some eSun or Hatchbox for something like a lower though, just as Chinese but I feel like its better for some reason.

[Anonymous No.1861130]

Anyone here get an MDD for their Ender3/5/CR10?

Is direct-drive really worth the hassle of installing? I run into some retraction issues with PETG and thinking of giving it a try.

[Anonymous No.1861186]

>>1860951
Just buy some glass filled nylon or CF filled nylon because it's pretty much the same.

[Anonymous No.1861210]

>recently got printer working again
>run into weird problems of edges of the brim lifting off the plate
Is there any good way to fix this? I’ve spent hours adjusting the leveling and still have nothing to show for it

[Anonymous No.1861228]

>>1861210
Just a guess but have you tried lowering the printing temp?

[Anonymous No.1861254]

>>1861228
Is 200 really be too hot for pla? I’ve seen lots of setups running at that temp.

[Anonymous No.1861258]

>>1861254
been printing hatchbox pla at 200 perfectly so it just probably depends on brand

[Anonymous No.1861268]

fdmvirgins vs resinchads

[Anonymous No.1861280]

>>1861268
ok >>>/g/, keep me posted

[Anonymous No.1861289]

>>1861268
fucking printing videogame models in resin and not taking the time to fix them in blender first, those obvious quads ugh

[Anonymous No.1861291]

>>1861289
It took him literal months to figure out he should rotate his models so they don't look like shit despite everybody telling him that- he's pretty much braindead, what do you expect? I tried being helpful at first but gave up after the fifth fucking "why are my prints bad" question where he ignored previous advice

[Anonymous No.1861300]

>>1861291
>implying I ever asked if my prints were bad
>ever asking for advice from someone without a printer

your memory is as error prone as an FDM printer

[Anonymous No.1861303]

>>1861289
technically the Greek dude and Felix were ripped from artists on sketchfab, so not vidya

[Anonymous No.1861306]

>>1861291
>implying I ever said my prints were bad
>implying I'd ask for help from someone without a 3d printer

print yourself a brain before you die from your own stupidity

[Anonymous No.1861310]

It's quite literally my job to work with both FDM and SLA 3D printers all day, but whatever, keep deluding yourself, I guess

[Anonymous No.1861313]

>>1861310
The only thing you work is the corner, fdmlet

[Anonymous No.1861321]

>>1861306
>stupid dumd lol ur stoopid lol haha
Get some original insults, your shit is getting old and just shows how low IQ you really are.
Your prints are bad, that's a simple fact.
There are several people with printers that tried to help you but after 6 months of shitposting and tons of wasted resin your prints still look like shit and your understanding of how to handle paint is basically non existent.
You are mentally stunted and incapeable of understanding basic instructions, you're either one of the most low IQ users I have seen on this website or just an severe case of Autism.
Clean your room btw, you have dirt and dust in both your resin and your paint, it looks terrible.

[Anonymous No.1861335]

It's my first time on this board. Have a resin owl.

[Anonymous No.1861342]

>>1861335
Cute. Your own design?

[Anonymous No.1861347]

>>1861342
Nah, took it from Cults for testing the details. Looked too cute to be ignored.

On the other hand, I made this cardan on Rhino 5. One of my first prints in photon.

[Anonymous No.1861367]

>>1861321
Prints are fine, you just can't print. ez

[Anonymous No.1861370]

>>1861367
I love you man, you're the gift that keeps on giving.
Our personal lolcow.

[Anonymous No.1861372]

>>1861321
>typing this hard for bait
>falling this hard for bait
When you argue with a fool, no one can tell who's who.

[Anonymous No.1861374]

>>1861370
I'm thrilled, now I'm living rent free on your hard drive

[Anonymous No.1861376]

>>1861321
Dude can you just stop biting so hard on the bait? I think you're gonna break the rod.

[Anonymous No.1861384]

>>1859749
That's a really cool model. Care to share?

[Anonymous No.1861430]

>>1857867
I buy from a local distributor. If I am testing my parameters before a more difficult print or just need to practice they sell a mystery color that are when they are changing the filament colors. I can get quality PLA (minus the color) for $15/kg. I guess i've never bothered comparing prices with online stores because I just doubt I can get the same quality stuff for cheaper.

[Anonymous No.1861434]

>>1857867
for me, it's gizmo dorks. but they're unavailable now.

>>1860851
>>1858724
>>1858510
>>1858288
>>1858122
>>1857950
>>1857873
as you can see, no one can agree on this. hatchbox, sunlu, and 3d solutech seem to be the most popular here, but only just barely.
it probably depends on color, local humidity, preferred printing temp/slicer settings, etc

[Anonymous No.1861452]

>>1861430
do they call that gipsy color by change?

[Anonymous No.1861488]

>Burn bootloader a fucktillion times because there's always some dumb shit little fucking retard problem with every little fucking thing
>Flash firmware a fuckzillion times because there's always some dumb shit little fucking retard problem with every little fucking thing
>Think I have the last dumb shit little fucking retard problem sorted
>Recompile in Autisdrino
>Error: Pluto isn't a planet level of nonsense problem now compiling Marlin THAT I JUST FUCKING UPLOADED TO THE NIGGER SHIT THING AND WORKED FUCKING FINE LITERALLY FIVE FUCKING MINUTES AGO

[Anonymous No.1861502]

help it’s retarded

[Anonymous No.1861511]

>>1861502
right looks like a dead bug

[Anonymous No.1861517]

>>1861488
should have went 32bit

[Anonymous No.1861519]

>>1861511
Doesn’t taste like one though

[Anonymous No.1861534]

>>1861452
Nah they call it mystery flavor

[Anonymous No.1861569]

>>1861335
How did you get this much detail? What layer height and did you have AA on or off? Extremely small details never come out this clean for me. Even after messing with exposure times.

[Anonymous No.1861571]

This is PLA with a 10% infill. Is there any way to adjust the sides that wrap around without breaking this thing? The area around the front of the face fits fine but the sides that wrap around are too wide.

[Anonymous No.1861576]

>>1861571

Gently heat each side up with a hot air gun and bend it in the position you need. Be aware that PLA gets floppy with little heat, and if the walls aren't thick enough they will start to sag in a way where the infill starts to show.

[Anonymous No.1861595]

Does it matter who I buy tpu from?

[Anonymous No.1861611]

Why would I spend the extra money to get a metal extruder instead of keeping my plastic one? I'm finding very little information on the matter. Does it improve printing with harder-to-melt materials?

[Anonymous No.1861635]

>>1861611
You can print higher temps and less maintenance needed.

[Anonymous No.1861636]

>>1861611
the filament tends to wear through the plastic extruder since it's made out of plastic

[Anonymous No.1861672]

the pile grows. How the fuck do I stop these cubes from looking like blobs

[Anonymous No.1861700]

So guys, I could get an elegoo mars pro right now but I'm thinking I should wait for the third presale for the saturn that they're gonna make at the end of the year. Although it seems that it's gonna be pretty hard to actually snatch one.
What should I do? Also, I'm a complete newbie with resin printers.

[Anonymous No.1861704]

>>1861672
please print a benchy with your current settings

[Anonymous No.1861707]

>>1861704
I want to know what nozzle, looks like 1mm

[Anonymous No.1861728]

>>1861672
>when your hotend is a candle

[Anonymous No.1861731]

>>1861700
Think twice
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eva_Hesse

[Anonymous No.1861742]

>>1861731
?

[Anonymous No.1861756]

>>1861742
>resin artist gets brain cancer and dies at 34
highly toxic shit

[Anonymous No.1861778]

>>1861611
Are you talking about the hotend, or extruder body?

[Anonymous No.1861782]

>>1861778
He talking about the part on the stepper motor. Enders come with plastic hardware.

[Anonymous No.1861783]

>>1861731
wat? The article makes no link between her art and her tumor.

[Anonymous No.1861786]

>>1861756
Didn't answer my question but whatever

[Anonymous No.1861787]

>>1861786
?

[Anonymous No.1861794]

>>1861756
Says brain tumor not brain cancer. You can get tumors without having cancer.

[Anonymous No.1861799]

>>1861794
yeh like when dealing with the SLAfag

[Anonymous No.1861815]

>>1861704
Here you go

[Anonymous No.1861840]

>>1861815
Nice rope going from the stack to the stern. Makes it look boaty.

[Anonymous No.1861844]

>>1861815
you print this with jizz?

[Anonymous No.1861845]

>>1861782
only the arm and frame of the extruder, the gears are metal

>>1861636
new Ender 3s come with a metal inset in the arm. no wear.

>>1861635
no. you're probably thinking hotend

[Anonymous No.1861858]

>>1861815
is your nozzle a glue gun? post picture of the hotend because I dont know if this is really shitty hardware or some setting because the unaltered slicer config would do better.

[Anonymous No.1861869]

>>1861845
most every printer does, a plastic geared extruder will do just as well as a metal in everything but backlash. Metal also tends to explode less but requires tiny teeth due to changes in temp, making the price for good ones expensive.
>>1861611
In addition to what I said above,
I dont trust plastic direct ones like the ender, the moment I printed petg on my first plastic direct extruder, it exploded(temps where reporting higher than they really were after fans kicked in and cracked the extruder, use a sock folks). geared bondtech clone extruders are cheap and the best for almost everything, dont waste your time with plastic direct extruders if you want to print tough stuff, I never used a metal direct extruder but most cant do flexibles and only prevents explosions.

plastic direct$<metal direct$$<plastic geared$$($$$ for offical)<metal geared$$$
plastic bondtech clones can print all things without issue, slippage is not a thing as long as you dont overtension

[Anonymous No.1862038]

The vr thread is just anime waifu bullshit, anyone here into modding headsets via 3d printing?

[Anonymous No.1862050]

>>1862038
Yeah sounds good, first thing Im thinking of though would be getting Lightweight PLA (the one that foams) so you dont have to carry that much extra weight.

[Anonymous No.1862054]

>>1862050
Regular pla is fine, your head can support a good amount of extra weight, and if you lay things out well enough it acts like a counterbalance to the front

[Anonymous No.1862056]

>>1862054
Yeah of course our head can carry the weight, I wear motorcycle helmets

BUT

the more weight you add, the slower you will be able to move your headset without "ringing" / shaking lmao

[Anonymous No.1862092]

>>1862038
I've had a vr headset for awhile (dell windows mr circa 2018) and never modded with 3d prints other than a clip for the headphone cable after the official one broke (cheap pbt clip)
anything you can recommend? I plan on moving to that new 4 camera vr headset in the fall with a GPU upgrade, but it should be mostly compatible (same frame design as the reverb).

[Anonymous No.1862107]

>>1861787
I'm asking wether I should buy the elegoo mars pro right now or wait for the saturn that's probably gonna come out in early 2021. The saturn is BIG and FAST, yet it seems like the preorders are flying and it's gonna be very difficult to get one. Also, presale is 400,I'm gonna guess it's gonna be like 600 retail and in my country the price is gonna probably go up to 800.
Meanwhile, the Elegoo Mars Pro is available for 500 right now in my country.

Why the fuck should I be concerned about health hazzards when I've worked with resin many times and I know you'rw supposed to do it in a well ventilated area?

[Anonymous No.1862108]

>>1862107
buddy I'm not the health hazard guy : )

[Anonymous No.1862155]

>>1862038
yes

[Anonymous No.1862157]

>>1861858
It’s the default one for the ender 3

[Anonymous No.1862181]

>>1862157
HA
damn, this(>>1861672 >>1861815) is default ender 3 kit and settings? did you buy it used/referb? (if so you should reflash the factory settings)
okay, download a new copy of cura:
>Click “Settings, Printer, Manage Printers”.
>In the preferences box, head for “Add, Add a non-networked printer”.
>Scroll to “Creality3D”, expand the section, and select Ender 3.
make sure you have selected "pla"in the materials section on the main page, click advanced settings and make sure:
>Bed temp is @60C
>printing temp is @200C
>nozzle diameter and extrusion width is 0.4
>100% flow in the slicer
>~4mm retraction @25mm/s (not that important, but no extra filament back in or >10mm retractions)
>initial layer speed @20mm/s and printing speed @50mm/s
>.2mm layer hight
>~20% lines infill

print a benchy with these settings, so we can start from a known point to debug whats the problem, make sure the belts are tight and all the bolts are tight. Make sure the extruder gears aren't gunk'd up too. If you can please just send a picture of the hotend in the first reply (and info on if this printer is a refurbished/used machine), it may be a nozzle issue.

[Anonymous No.1862188]

>>1860691
I remember I saw some photo of the Apu you were working on, great stuff anon.
Can't wait to print the whole group

[Anonymous No.1862189]

is it time for me just to copy and paste up a basic format for tech help, something only ~5 short chapters?
>send a picture of a benchy printed with your current settings if possible
>do x for your printer's default config: most can be found within cura/prusaslicer or all3dp
>make sure x is enabled for PLA, x is enabled for ABS/ASA, and x is enabled for PETG, etc (nylon, carbon fiber, PLA+)
>if for some reason you know default looks worse alredy post x,y,and z settings (fill in the blanks format)
>maintinence tips (lubrication, belt tension, extruder tension, cold pulls, etc)
>SLA tips and safty

Then post it in the OP so any anon can actually debug the issue instead of me guessing 50 things every message

[Anonymous No.1862192]

10 year challenge

[Anonymous No.1862195]

>>1862192
I unironically have a >20 year old SLA print from a military contractor, I could model a copy of the print to show how little has changed, other than many orders of magnitude less cost. I own a FDM printer tho SLAfag.

[Anonymous No.1862200]

>>1862189
the simplify3d guide is quite good and gets you thinking about WHY you'd want to change a certain setting. it really ought to be in the OP along with a greentext template for getting help
for example:
>pic of benchy/calicube
>filament
>printer?
>extruder?
>hotend?
>slicer
>settings related to your question (retraction, speed, temp, coasting, wipe, etc)
>what you've tried & results

[Anonymous No.1862202]

>>1862195
Ah yes, how is your electronic cake decorator doing

[Anonymous No.1862204]

>>1862200
>it really ought to be in the OP along with a greentext template for getting help
It used to be in the OP, but times have changed and the current OP seems to be a shilling chink (Qidi? never heard of her)

[Anonymous No.1862206]

>>1862204
qidi makes some good tiny enclosed printers for ABS, nothing remarkable about them.

[Anonymous No.1862228]

>>1862038
>vr thread is just anime waifu bullshit
Always has been unfortunately, and doesn't look like it's going to change, which sucks.
If I had an Index I'd slap a bunch of dumb shit on mine, but my Vive's been fine for the most part. I've made a mount for the controllers and headset but that's about it.

I like the four googly eyes but the fans seem a bit haphazard because of the zip ties

[Anonymous No.1862242]

>>1862181
The only difference between those and my settings is 75C bed temp and 25mm/s initial speed. I’ve seen all of that before.

[Anonymous No.1862243]

>>1859135
WOAH It's almost like people don't go to work for MONEY they actually go so they can buy OTHER shit with that money. CRAZY!?!1

[Anonymous No.1862245]

>>1862038
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4538305
new flight stick design for the touch controller

[Anonymous No.1862285]

Looking to get an Ender 3 pro for minature printing. Anything I should know before I buy. Are there any essential parts that I should buy along with it?

[Anonymous No.1862287]

>>1862242
so your printer is a fucking chinisium potato or you still haven't done proper maintenance/repairs on a used printer

[Anonymous No.1862336]

>>1861502
>it's retarded
No anon it's you who are retarded

[Anonymous No.1862339]

>>1862285

Get that parts pack on amazon that comes with not shit springs and capricorn tube and a metal extruder.

I'd recommend a better motherboard too.

[Anonymous No.1862350]

>>1862339
>>1862285
The springs are a must. With the stock springs I was having to relevel every print. Now I check every couple prints and only have to adjust a tiny bit. For the capricorn tube make sure to use the fitting it comes with for the hotend. The stock fitting can't grip capricorn tubing for shit. I haven't installed the metal extruder body yet since the pros come with brass inserted parts but I'm sure I will eventually.

[Anonymous No.1862352]

>>1862285
Get a resin printer for miniatures.

[Anonymous No.1862355]

>>1862245
>paracord
Why not just get one of those magnet phone mount ballbearing things?

[Anonymous No.1862357]

>>1862355
so it springs back to "true" when you let go

[Anonymous No.1862363]

>>1860933
185 is too low imho. I use 205 for pla+ and the results are awesome. I use eSun tho. 60 deg bed also, I seriously think I would struggle to get better results from any fdm printer

[Anonymous No.1862364]

>>1857148
How the fuck do I make money from resin printing? I tried selling a model printing service on etsy but nobody is even looking at my listing

[Anonymous No.1862366]

>>1860939
Because as your photo shows, you lose fine detail in exchange for smoothness. If you want detailed minis then resin wins hands down. For anything else fdm is generally a better bet

[Anonymous No.1862370]

>>1861254
No, 200 is about right for pla, and I use 205 for pla+

[Anonymous No.1862371]

>>1861306
Dude, your painting skills are horrible.

[Anonymous No.1862374]

>>1862371
not only that but the close up makes the sla look like shit!

[Anonymous No.1862377]

>>1862364
You're several years too late 3Dhubs is dead and resin printers are cheap enough that printing 3-5 models offsets the cost of the printer itself. Find a niche that you can fill.

[Anonymous No.1862385]

>>1862285
Get resin for minis if that's all you intend to print.

[Anonymous No.1862389]

>>1862374
Indeed. He may as well just use fdm and cut out the post processing hassle if he's not even going to thin his paints lol

[Anonymous No.1862392]

>>1862371
and yours? nonexistent.

[Anonymous No.1862397]

>>1862389
How will he pretend he's superior, then? What other bullshit metric will he have other than a cheap piece of hardware that anyone with a spare few hundred dollars will buy?

[Anonymous No.1862408]

>>1862377
Mass producing baby yodas it is

[Anonymous No.1862411]

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>>1862410