/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.1850016]

what is the point of linesman pliers?
>using the crimper tool.
They don't seem different from combination pliers only more bulky? If it does have fish tape puller then why bother?

[Anonymous No.1850031]

>>1850016
they twist wires better for wire nuts
t. sparky

[Anonymous No.1850084]

Electricians are afraid of hammers, lest they be mistaken for a carpenter, so they carry a hammer that looks like a pair of pliers.

[Anonymous No.1850107]

For electrical, cutting crimping pigtailin etc, you could use em for rebar tie wire but it’s better to get the ones with a spring for that or the tie wire spinner

[Anonymous No.1850118]

>>1850084
Carpenter here. I like this explanation.

[Anonymous No.1850120]

Combination pliers are a generalized tool, they do many things, but they dont do anything effectively. If you only have a handful of tools, you may find them effective.
Linesmen, are a dedicated, specialized tool for doing one job, very well.

Imagine tying rebar together for 8 hours, using a pair of slip joint pliers.

[Anonymous No.1850142]

>>1850118
And it’s funny cause electrician hammers are based, plus you always know when the damn sheetrockers stole your hammer.

[Anonymous No.1850150]

>>1850120
>Imagine tying rebar together for 8 hours, using a pair of slip joint pliers.

Electricians don't tie rebar that much retard.

[Anonymous No.1850160]

>>1850016
electrical isolation buddy

[Anonymous No.1850162]

>>1850150
Im not an electrician, retard.

[Anonymous No.1851660]

>>1850016
Splicing wires dumbdick

[Anonymous No.1851691]

>>1850016
They are very good for pulling lashing wire tight while you slap the cable with your lineman wrench.

Also good for dressing the wire and cutting and everything about it.

I prefer the larger grip for cutting larger wire like #6. The crimp is probably alright for the same reason, but I never use it.

T. Lineman

[Anonymous No.1851763]

>>1850016
Many weldors use them for cutting TIG and OA filler rod.

[Anonymous No.1851774]

>>1850016
I've thought long about it. As an electrician, we use two pairs of channellocks more often. Only in making up (twisting solid 10 gauge wire) do we have a true use for linesmen. Otherwise it's a heavy duty gripper and cutter. Most guys in the trades use them to tie wire together.

>>1850150
Sometimes we do, but depends if we're told to do concrete form work.

[Anonymous No.1851797]

I just use my Kleins to strip and twist wire (and also use it as a hammer lol) instead of pulling out my strippers then putting them away to pull out my heavies and twist the wire so I can get a splice ready for a wirenut. It does save time when you’re doing tons of splices in one day.

Also people who don’t twist their wires before putting on a wirenut are subhuman degenerates and should be lined up and shot, I don’t care if the bag said “no pre twisting required!”

[Anonymous No.1851812]

They're good for attaching fence clips. I know there is a dedicated tool but then you have to carry that and a pliers.

[Anonymous No.1851844]

>>1851797
That's because you're not supposed to pre twist, you're supposed to keep twisting the wire nut until it twists the wires in your hand more than they would have been if you pre twisted them.

[Anonymous No.1851852]

>>1851844
Up against the wall, degenerate.

[Anonymous No.1851856]

>>1851844
This. Imagine expecting pre-twisted bundles to interlace enough.

[Anonymous No.1851868]

>>1850150
in commercial settings we do it more... some jackass architect always seems to want lights in a concrete wall, or in tilt ups. Same with when you do a ufer ground, we want to make sure everything is very secure for when a few hundred pounds of concrete hit it.

>>1851844
in my neck of the woods you will be shot, then hung if you arent pretwisting your solid wire.

[Anonymous No.1851876]

>>1850150
They don't tie actual rebar that much but commercial electricians do work with tie wire quite a bit especially in concrete buildings. When you're running PVC conduit in a slab they'll use rebar chairs nailed to the bottom of the form to hold it up in the slab and then use the wire to strap it to the chair.

[Anonymous No.1851886]

>>1851868
>in my neck of the woods you will be shot, then hung if you arent pretwisting your solid wire.


Fucking this.

[Anonymous No.1853501]

>>1850031
>still twisting wires instead of letting g the wire nut do it for you...

[Anonymous No.1853549]

>2020
>wirenut
holy fuck just used wagos you 3rdworlders

[Anonymous No.1853560]

>Using wire nuts

Fucking third worlders, I swear.

[Anonymous No.1853593]

>>1853560
Pic related is just as horrible.
Wago, solder or crimp (one with thicc connectors) are the only real ways to join electricity.
Oh, and high-quality terminal blocks, where you have flat part sqashing wires.

[Anonymous No.1853615]

>yuroteeth having an opinion on something which they have no real world experience with
We get it, you banned ceramic wire nuts 100 years ago and feel special for it

[Anonymous No.1853618]

>>1853615
Ceramic wire nuts is, unironically, OK. They don't have conductive spring that is fire hazard if electrician is ass-handed.

[Anonymous No.1853621]

>>1853618
The spring is what keeps them secure and stops them from being a fire hazard
If you would have actually used them before, you can very clearly feel it setting into place

[Anonymous No.1853626]

>>1853621
Spring is the thing that conducts electricity, when ass-handed electrician had mounted it without pre-twisting wire, which is greater wire hazard than poorly twisted copper, since that spring is really thin and made out of tinned steal or some shit, which has high resistance, which will lead to heat.

Source:I nearly caused a fire because of this shit shit, despite following manufacturers instructions... Because there is no easy way to control it.

Most useless thing ever. If you had twisted shit with pliers, might as well just solder and heat-shrink it.

[Anonymous No.1853627]

>>1853626
>which is greater wire
fire fuck
>Because there is no easy way to control it.
Check it*.

[Anonymous No.1853651]

>>1853626
Are you drunk or just fucking retarded?
What exactly to you think a Wago connector would do if you didnt latch it correctly, it also has a shunt inside

The spring doesnt conduct much electricity at all, the copper does, the spring aids in twisting the copper and then keeping that copper tight
The fact that you had to read the instructions to use a wire nut and then supposedly almost caused a fire is very telling

[Anonymous No.1854244]

>>1853651
>What exactly to you think a Wago connector would do if you didnt latch it correctly
You have to be pretty retarded in order to fuck up wago. Especially push series.
>it also has a shunt inside
Material is different. In case of Wago this is tinned copper shunt with tinned steel spring which makes sure wire makes good contact with that copper bar.
>The spring doesnt conduct much electricity at all, the copper does, the spring aids in twisting the copper and then keeping that copper tight
Ideally yes. But if you don't twist copper wire before hand (and most manufacturer claim you don't need to do this) there is real chance of copper not making proper contact.

So yeah, fuck wirenuts, they are useless junk, because at the moment you have twisted shit with pliers you can get some rosin-core solder and torch and make real reliable joint.

[Anonymous No.1854247]

>>1853618
These are the only type of wire nuts I use... but then the only time i seem to use wire nuts is on oven ignitors...

[Anonymous No.1854249]

>>1853560
It’s literally only third worlders who use those

[Anonymous No.1854250]

>>1853549
Push in wagos are communist 3rd world tier compared to wirenuts. The lever wagos are nice but the contractor I work for buys wirenuts since they’re cheaper.

[Anonymous No.1854274]

>>1854250
Push in Wago are capitalist as fuck, more expensive, better product, schnelle Installation arbeitet frei and shit.
Plastic wirenut is third world communist, cheap, but useless.

[Anonymous No.1854278]

>>1851844
>twisting 5 14 AWG wires with the wirenut
whew lad

[Anonymous No.1854287]

>>1850016
Got about a quarter through the thread and realized nobody has anything constructive to say besides its also a hammer but electricians don't want to look like carpenters guy. It's true that it's also a hammer and that's a reason it works
2 brothers are electricians they just say they're good at everything and being an electrician is easy. I haven't taken much thought after but being bulky makes them a hammer right? They can twist wires and snip em, if your handy probably strip em too. So with thought, probably a tool just to be fast.

[Anonymous No.1854288]

>>1854287
Fast because you don't have to switch tool much I meam

[Anonymous No.1854351]

>>1850016
In HVAC they're an amazing multi use tool. Normal pliers don't cut it when you're dealing with 6 all day.

[Anonymous No.1854959]

>>1854274
You’ve got it backwards. Plastic wirenuts are superior. Push in wagos are for third world losers who insist on doing things different and in a more retarded way to be special snowflake faggots.

Idk how things are done in faggoland EU but in my area sometimes commercial jobs are specced down to what kind of couplings you’re using on conduit. Sometimes wagos aren’t allowed because of the no faggot specs

[Anonymous No.1855021]

>>1853560
These are good ONLY IF you also crimp ferrules onto each wire BEFORE putting them in to the block.

[Anonymous No.1855030]

>>1854959
>You’ve got it backwards. Plastic wirenuts are superior.
Nope. Crimp > Solder > Wago > Poo > Ceramic old school wire nut > Pee > Just twisted wires > Wirenuts > screw terminal blocks.
>Idk how things are done in faggoland EU but in my area sometimes commercial jobs are specced down to what kind of couplings you’re using on conduit.
In my shithole only crimps and crimps are allowed in commercial. Inside metal conduit only.

[Anonymous No.1855102]

>>1855030
Solder is dangerous in high power connections.
If the joint starts to heat up, the solder can melt leaving you with a bad connection.

[Anonymous No.1855178]

>>1855102
If your connection heats up above 180C, then it is a bad connection... You don't want Russian glownuts.
But in case this is by design, crimp and weld (yep, you make copper wire melt into a blob, old radios were built this way) are the only options.

[Anonymous No.1855180]

Best tool no shit

[Anonymous No.1855338]

>>1850150
Linemen aren't electricians.

[Anonymous No.1855340]

>>1855030
Solder is a lot weaker than Wago or screw terminals.

[Anonymous No.1855354]

>>1850016
I thought the entire point of these are to be a multitool. When you're in a harness climbing towers and shit the less amount of crap you have to carry up the pole with you, the better.

[Anonymous No.1855359]

>>1855180
>300€ bottle opener

[Anonymous No.1855365]

>>1853560
Screw terminals are shit tier. Over time the screws loosen up and the connection starts to heat up which can cause a fire. Wagos are best for connecting wires

[Anonymous No.1855397]

>>1855340
How often do you hang on wires? Solder provides exceptionally good joint resistance, and if wire was twisted properly before soldering, it is not going anywhere. (given T<180C)
But yes, wagos are pretty based, you can't remove wire easily.
Screw terminals (pic related) are good. Other third-world >>1853560 like this should be banned.

[Anonymous No.1855400]

>>1855359
$15 for insulated beer opener? Fucking based if you ask me. You may get shocked, but beer would be fine

[Anonymous No.1855964]

i use it for
>hammering anything
>pulling out nails
>twisting wires
they're pretty good. ive got 4 or five different types of pliers in my main bag and this is the most used.
>t.sparky

[Anonymous No.1855978]

>>1855397
>How often do you hang on wires...?

Thats not the point. The point is that there are stupid people in industrial workplaces that grab wires, pull for leverage, sit tools where they don't belong, drop shit, etc., so you make it as secure and idiot-proof as possible. Not take the quick or easy way just because it gets you to the next job or task. When in doubt, secure everything as best you can. Prepare for the worst.

[Anonymous No.1855996]

>>1855978
Crimp is really fast and secure. I'd say faster than wire nut, but slower than wago.

[Anonymous No.1856064]

>>1855996
Agreed. I like to buttsplice and heat shrink when I can. Mainly on solenoids if the wiring is going to be exposed. If its going to be in a box or panel, I go with a wago or wire nut depending on the application. Very seldom do I solder connections. Maybe the tips of stranded wire on small terminal blocks to keep from having any strays to short out the board or equipment.

[Anonymous No.1856558]

>>1854278
>using a wirenut
Do Americans really do this?

[Anonymous No.1857369]

>>1855030
Third worlder seething cope. You’re basically propagating “ITS NÜ THEREFORE ITS GUD” söylogic

[Anonymous No.1857401]

>>1857369
Just twisted wires and soldered joints are probably way older than plastic wirenuts.
Seriously, stop calling them connectors, because they are insulating caps, not a connector

[Anonymous No.1857690]

>>1855178
Thank you, obligatory glownut poster.

[Anonymous No.1857747]

in structural we use them for cutting thicc SAW wire that regular welpers are too weak for
t. welder

[Anonymous No.1857810]

>>1855030
spotted the guy whos never done service work in his life and seen what wagos/half of those other shitty connections do after a while. wire nuts will always be the best and you will probably get laughed out of a job if your boss sees you crimping/soldering all of your wires together

[Anonymous No.1857864]

>>1857810
I'd get fired if I use wirenuts, this for sure. They are not even code.

[Anonymous No.1858149]

>>1857810
>>1857864
Might be out of my league here but I can't begin to tell you how many wire nuts I went through working commercial. US based, I have no idea what code you're referring to that denies your use of wire nuts. Soldering will be a stronger connection but it's also a huge waste of time and not worth the effort over wire nuts. Crimping is mostly just residential.

[Anonymous No.1858163]

>>1857401
This looks like a lot more cross sectional area in contact and stronger than wagos tbqh. They are a connector. They cut threads into the wires and drive them further up the tapered cone. I think the wire would fail before you could them out

[Anonymous No.1858173]

>>1858149
>Crimping is mostly just residential.
Crimping is mostly industrial. >>1855996 -related. Thick walled metal tube, and hydraulic crimp tool. This thing isn't going anywhere.
>Very seldom do I solder connections
Those are pain in the ass, to be honest. Either you need a good torch that won't melt insulation, or pic related soldering iron. Nobody does it.
>>1858163
Don't forget that wago has copper there, not steel like wirenuts.
And you can't gurantee copper-copper contact unless you pre-twist it with pliers, at which point you can take your gas iron and solder the shit

[Anonymous No.1858174]

>>1858173
Speaking of wago, its main pro is that it is really retard-proof which is important in hard places.
Wire nut - nah, fuck it. Steel spring might become the conductor, and glow red how with 32A no problem

[Anonymous No.1858983]

>>1850016
Because the only crimping I did in residential or commercial trade work as an apprentice was for 14 or 12ga ground wires in receptacle boxes so 95% of the time, I was reaching for my kleins for gripping or cutting only. Try cutting through 5 or 6 10ga solid thhn at once after a conduit pull with any other pliers...

[Anonymous No.1858995]

>>1853501
>making shoddy connections

[Anonymous No.1860360]

>>1850016

They give you a lot of leverage, can cut nails/screws and can use to grip and pull wire with both hands. They are awesome.

[Anonymous No.1860388]

I do low volt and have to work in drop ceilings all the time and lineman pliers are useful for gripping and snipping wire when I have to tie off devices.

[Anonymous No.1860478]

>>1851844
keep twisting the wirenut until the wire explodes out the other side.

[Anonymous No.1860479]

>>1853549
>wagos
backstab wirenuts

[Anonymous No.1860483]

>>1855397

literally the worst connector, if the wire shifts at all counterclockwise it will create a hot connection and melt the block through the surrounding plastic while arcing until it shorts to ground or shorts to another phase

[Anonymous No.1860484]

>>1858173
>at which point you can take your gas iron and solder the shit

soldered splices are not allowed in NEC jurisdictions

[Anonymous No.1860489]

>>1850016
Lineman's pliers are my favorite kind of pliers.
They cut shit. Good for working with wire in general, easy to use with only one hand (no fussing with positions), they don't rattle and wobble, etc. I don't like using pliers, in general. Most seem designed to fukk up fasteners. Lineman's and needle nose, though, actually seem to be for things other than just replacing the lazy man's wrench drawer.

[Anonymous No.1860497]

>>1860484
Not exactly.
>(B) Splices. Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices identified for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be soldered. All splices and joints and the free ends of conductors shall be covered with an insulation equivalent to that of the conductors or with an identified insulating device. Wire connectors or splicing means installed on conductors for direct burial shall be listed for such use
>grounding and bonding
>(B) Methods Not Permitted. Connection devices or fittings that depend solely on solder shall not be used

So, I think soldering is allowed in NEC (as in my local code) as long as you don't do pic related. Just think about it, it is not really practical. I bet you'd need fire permits, getting molten solder on your head isn't that pleasant... Easier to use wirenuts (not really), wagos or fucking crimps.

[Anonymous No.1860501]

>>1854351
This, any hvac tech not rocking a linesman is a fucking salesguy.
>need to bend some thick shit
>can be used to cut
>quick crimps
>can be used as a hammer for random bashing (but specifically knockouts)
General purpose tools really shine when you have to be the one to carry your tools onto the job site and need a whole lot of different shit.
>>1854287
Pretty much this too, I always strip with them unless it's low volt shit.

[Anonymous No.1860516]

>>1860497
I've seen a soldered ground wire once and this is at the telco where all the old fags soldered all day everyday

[Anonymous No.1860601]

I effotrlessly stab nice square holes through sheetrock for old work boxes , hammer staple straps, cut nails, crimp ground stuff, bash ood fixtures apart, fantasize about using the tool to beat a guy to death- but mostly I can achieve these really pretty tight twists in pigtails before I wire nut.

relying on beefy linesman makes your forearms and hands jacked, increasing overall dexterity.

[Anonymous No.1862472]

>>1855180
do they make this 1000v insulated?

[Anonymous No.1862474]

>>1860479
This.

[Anonymous No.1862602]

>>1855021
if you use flexible wires then ferules are a must have.
solid conductor can go directly in.

[Anonymous No.1862604]

>>1855996
the problem with crimping is the expensive crimping tools.

at work we have a drawer with like around 50 >200€ crimping pliers.
for insulated, not insulated, with strain relief, ball crimp, hexagon crimp. etc.

the good thing about crimps is liability if you use the correct crimping pliers the crimp producer allowed you to use and its good.
if a hand soldered connection goes bad and causes a major fuckup you have a hard time proving you're soldering skills were not the problem here.

[Anonymous No.1862607]

>>1850016
>not bending the solid conductor and putting it in screw terminals.

every big German corporation has these boards for the apprentices.
>if a wire was not straight the master would snip it with side cutters and you had to do it again.

[Anonymous No.1862610]

>>1862607
>can't even bother to crimp on proper ring terminals
Jesus, I'm never going to fly Lufthansa ever again.

[Anonymous No.1862622]

[Anonymous No.1862635]

>>1850031
>wire nuts
african tier, you must be from states

[Anonymous No.1862655]

No one answer why get a lineman instead of cheaper euro combi plier.

[Anonymous No.1862897]

>>1862607
>ill show you how it done
>take out a meme tool

kys.

[Anonymous No.1862937]

>>1862655
Honestly, electricians carry them because they don't like carrying a shit load of tools with them. A linemen plier can be used to twist wire, hammer shit, grab/pull wire, cut, and crimp. Linemen like them for the same reasons. Its also a meme in the trades and they are called "Kleins" instead of linesman pliers, ala "kleenex" isntead of tissue. So most apprentices pick up a pair because their journeyman has them, on top of it being a useful multitool for their application. Buy whatever works best for YOU in your field of work. Who gives a fuck what everyone else uses them for. After youve been working in a specific industry for a while, you will have purchased the tools you need for your job, not just the ones labeled as such on the packaging.

[Anonymous No.1862943]

>>1862897
If you're doing a bullshit exercise like this, of course they're going to fail you if you have any knick or marrying on the copper

[Anonymous No.1862974]

>>1862610
You can't put ring terminals on solid core 2,5 mm^2 (12 AWG?) wire.

But I dont think they have solid core wires on airplanes.

[Anonymous No.1862975]

>>1862472
Kek. Ask them to make one, I'd buy, because you never know when beer is under tension