/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1806563]

Raising Ted's Skelegates Edition
Old thread: >>1803861

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET (embed)

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 4-7-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2/X-Smart/X-Maker
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: lulzbot is (mostly) dead
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Elegoo Mars

Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users, that doesn't include (you).
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
http://www.autodesk.com/
http://www.solidworks.com/
http://www.openscad.org
http://www.freecadweb.org
http://www.blender.org/

Resins and their curing time.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?sle=true#gid=0

[Anonymous No.1806585]

how the hell do you use the platform (lower left banner)?
i understand that its a compliant platform, but how do you position it? are there spiral pins for 4 holes and you rotate the whole thing?

[Anonymous No.1806594]

>>1806563
>want to make functional parts
>200 - 350 euro price range
>should I get fdm or sla ?
>thanks in advance

[Anonymous No.1806595]

>>1806594
define functional parts. what accuracy youre aiming for, what materials, whats the end application?

[Anonymous No.1806603]

>>1806595
used in remote controlled cars I don't need crazy accuracy or rigidity but as best as possible.

[Anonymous No.1806604]

>>1806594
>want to make functional parts
FDM
SLA is primarily for tiny display pieces and figurines

[Anonymous No.1806609]

I am doomed
I've no will to print things that won't serve as tools I specifically need or pieces for fixing something that's already broken.
I feel like wasting filament and power every time. I'm not into putting more money on it.
What can I do to make it more enjoyable while staying eco and cheap?

[Anonymous No.1806611]

>>1806609
build yourself a filament extruder and recycle shit into new filament

[Anonymous No.1806615]

>>1806611
not economical, ecological, nor cheap

[Anonymous No.1806616]

>>1806609
I'm with you, my printer is idle most of the time. But when I need it, I'm really glad I have it.
I know some people can't stand to see an idle printer, and have a backlog of trinkets they want to print. That's fine for them.

[Anonymous No.1806621]

>>1806603
get ender 3 then, it will be more than enough, and every possible problem is already documented and known.

[Anonymous No.1806622]

>>1806609
break more shit that you can print parts for
git gud at cad in between actual prints
print farm for ca$h
dragon dicks?

[Anonymous No.1806632]

>>1806615
there are some diy designs that can be done pretty damn cheap - mostly out of spare parts and old junk

[Anonymous No.1806664]

>>1806609
I used to do the same, after a bit I decided to not give a fuck. Whenever I want to print something I see how much it's going to weigh and think to myself "is it worth the price?". If I wasn't printing I'd be making something else, spending on some other component, if you enjoy DIYing think about it as paying to have fun, and you're not paying much.

[Anonymous No.1806665]

Anyone use amolen wood pla before? I did some prints with it at about 200 degrees, the quality was good but i kept getting jams. I tried one at like 215 and had no jams, but the stringing and blobs were insane

[Anonymous No.1806667]

>>1806609
Forgot to say that 3dprinting is a weak hobby on its own, you need to use it as a tool for other hobbies. I do a lot of electronics so I 3d print enclosures to make my prototypes look and feel like real products for example.

[Anonymous No.1806669]

>>1806667
Should have gotten a little router for that instead then you could mill nice wooden enclosures and PCBs.

[Anonymous No.1806673]

>>1806667
I'm starting to feel this, most things I'm printing and designing are just upgrades to the printer itself
still, it is fun, so whatever. filament is cheap and quality prints are satisfying

[Anonymous No.1806674]

>>1806609
>>1806664
i was the same until i started dialing in my setup
doing 3-4 testprints a day now, look at them and throw em right in the trash + the occasional printer part since i picked up CAD again
i learned more in the last 6 weeks than the last 3 years about printing and its a lot of fun desu.
Filament is cheap enough to not give a fuck about wasting it. I mean i just bought highest quality pla for 2ct/gram

[Anonymous No.1806726]

I've noticed this issue in the past but never really cared up until now; what's with the bulge when there's new "features" on certain layers? Here it's just a sharp transition at the radius because it's like that all the way to the top but I've noticed something similar on other parts, e.g. I have a hole or some other thing on a part and the layers that make up the hole will ALL be bulged out. Most of the things I've found about this suggest it's ringing, which it's plainly not, or ghosting, which... vaguely makes sense, if it's on part of a layer, which this isn't. The wall thickness is the same throughout this piece.

[Anonymous No.1806734]

>>1806726
its plastic pushing out because default profiles use too much flow

[Anonymous No.1806739]

>>1806726
A shitty MSPaint drawing of what I mean, where the entire layer will be bulging out if there's a feature of some kind on it

>>1806734
How could this be mitigated, or even diagnosed? How do those features differ from any others, if the wall thicknesses are all the same?

[Anonymous No.1806742]

>>1806739
>a
what part exactly do you mean?
the "hat" or the holes on the right

[Anonymous No.1806756]

>>1806739
wall thickness/flow, since you're adding inner walls?

[Anonymous No.1806760]

>>1806742
Both, these are different parts but I've had the same issue on them; the wall thickness is the same, I'm printing slow so it's not a matter of the inertia of the print head, I would think. The photo is just of a part I'm currently printing and had on hand, and the Paint picture is of an entirely different example part with arbitrary holes, sorry for the confusion.

>>1806756
But why would the flow change on those layers? There's not a setting I can find that's anything like "if layer is not a closed circuit, increase flow". Plus, that wouldn't make sense in this case since it is a closed loop.

[Anonymous No.1806776]

>>1806760
What slicer are you using?

[Anonymous No.1806777]

>>1806776
PrusaSlicer

[Anonymous No.1806782]

3d prints are looking OK, my benchy came out cleanly. Starting some Warhammer terrain pieces with simple geometry. The stealth mode on the Prusa is fairly quiet for my small apartment. Is an enclosure a good idea?

Also any tips on printer settings for miniatures? Those skeletons look great.

[Anonymous No.1806784]

>>1806760
you got it wrong, flow is not changing but part geometry
spoon part:
my best guess is on the layer of the orange line the toplayers beginn.
Since toplayers are 100% filled there is no room for the plastic of the perimeters to escape symmetrically in infill and outside , so excess plastic gets squeezed out. Thus a change in visual and thickness
square part:
in case print direction is horizontal
same as above but additional the line gap from the hole ups nozzle pressure that gets discharged on the line end

[Anonymous No.1806786]

>>1806782
>Is an enclosure a good idea?
Depends on your needs and environment; if you want it even quieter or have drafts around the area, it would benefit from it. Doubly so if you're planning on printing ABS.

[Anonymous No.1806824]

>>1806674
>>1806616
>>1806664
I believe part of the problem is my financial struggle pushing me into being a cheap bastard that only buys filament if its on sale or gets a discount for as close to 10€/Kg as possible.

I can't imagine paying regular price for good PLA, being often +20€/Kg. So I'm living on one white spool and one black spool at the time, and damn if they don't last me for so long.

I can't afford buying nice colors for playing and testing new shit, I only print what is exclusively necessary. Interesting colors are never on sale though, is often plain silly colors that get discounted anyway.

If you had to live on a pair of colors only, what would you suggest is a worthy standard 1-for-all color that you should have? I mean, given I would have to print everything in those colors until I run out of them.

[Anonymous No.1806825]

>>1806777
Try a different slicer.

[Anonymous No.1806829]

>>1806824
I buy some black, mostly white and natural/clear, which is my favorite. I haven't paid more than $9USD for a Kilo in quite a while. I usually check Amazon every few days for deals.
>they don't last me for so long
Stop printing at 100% infill.

[Anonymous No.1806832]

>>1806824
Hatchbox's Mint Green and Pastel Green are probably my favorite colours. They're not too in-your-face while not just being regular blue and green.

https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B015I1D99O

https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B015I1DAXE

Probably sold out for the foreseeable future because people keep printing those masks, though. As ever with Hatchbox, I have NO idea why there's so many negative reviews - they never have pictures, either. I've gone through over 100 rolls over several years and have had zero QC issues, ever.

[Anonymous No.1806854]

>>1806609
>>1806824
This is actually the right way to do it, don't fall for the printing stupid shit for no reason and then throw it straight in the trash meme. Print things you have a use for, there is nothing wrong with your printer sitting idle if you have nothing you need to print at that time. I only ever have one roll open at a time (generally either white or black PLA) that I print everything I need with until I run out, and then I open another one.

[Anonymous No.1806876]

>>1806854
>only prints in bw
do you hate fun?
it's worth getting a tupperware and saving your silica packets and getting a little color sampler. switching filaments is easy once you get used to it (I used to be very averse to it) and adding splashes of color is a nice way to break up monotonous builds.

[Anonymous No.1806891]

ugh let my 3d printer sit for too long and now i think theres a tiny indent in the wheels

do i need new ones? it makes a sound every time it passes over them

[Anonymous No.1806910]

>>1806726
I think it has to do with the quick transition of going from a layer with not too much extruded plastic to a layer of not much plastic extruded and the other way around as well.

[Anonymous No.1806922]

I've recently been turning off the heated bed after the first layer with PLA and getting great results. I just got new PLA+ and on this first print, part of the base has lifted and warped off the bed, like 5-10mm. the other part is still adhering and the print seems to be doing fine regardless (the top layer is flat), and luckily the warping wont really affect the final product. Initial layer is 230, print at 200. stock cooling fan at 90%. There wasn't any change in bed leveling, and it was absolutely spot-on before - my bases were looking flawless.
The only change is that I was printing at 50-100% infill, and this is at 20% infill. I also heard some clicking from either the extruder or the spool - it's really heavy and on the ender 3 OEM spool holder, so not very smooth. It got caught on my Z rod stabilizer a few times so I moved the spool holder over, but I don't think I see signs of underextrusion.
Which setting is more likely to cause this, infill or bed heat? does PLA+ just shrink more then PLA?
If it is the heated bed, at what layer or height could I safely turn the bed off? It feels like a waste of energy to constantly heat it.

[Anonymous No.1806961]

>>1806891
Try some prints and see what happens. They're cheap enough if you need new ones.

[Anonymous No.1806990]

my ender 3 is starting to show chinese characters and random stuff all over the display

whats going on!

[Anonymous No.1806993]

>>1806990
Better get tested anon, it's activated the WU-FLU protocol, and released the shangai sneeze all over the house.

Just factory reset it if you can.

[Anonymous No.1806995]

>>1806993
but im mid print... haven't used it in like 4 months and i haven't flashed it with anything it should be stock

[Anonymous No.1807001]

>>1806990
Press a couple of buttons and see if it goes back to normal. If not, then reboot; if that doesn't fix it, something's broke.

Sometimes static electricity can hit the wrong place at the right time and garble the display.

[Anonymous No.1807002]

>>1806995
>haven't used it in like 4 months
did you have a dust cover on the lcd pcb or no
cause, you know. dust and static and shorts

[Anonymous No.1807006]

>>1807002
i didn't

ill try blasting it with air but the display was ok when i started the print

[Anonymous No.1807009]

>>1806922
PLA+ from Sunlu prints great on default settings on my Ender 3 (200C/50C).
230 is maybe too hot even for just the initial layers. Try within 190-210 and default fan speeds. Some say you don't even need to preheat the bed for PLA+.
Also is possible you may be lacking better adhesion there, so clean and level the bed again and use skirt for adhesion if needed.

[Anonymous No.1807033]

>as 3d printing expand more and more into normies, price of filament rises as there is more demand and a increasing price/value perception for the casual domestic printing, same as printer ink, and there is nothing you can do over it.

Why live then?

[Anonymous No.1807036]

>>1807033
invest in a filament extruder now

[Anonymous No.1807041]

>>1807009
I think I've done a good job dialing in my first layer and bed level. black z spacer was one of my first "successful" prints on glass with PLA+; green is a recent PLA on buildtak; the black bar on the side is a small thing I just printed with some other stuff that all adhered well when I left the bed at 60 deg. looks OK. I'd have expected some of those small things to just pop off during printing.
starting a longer print with a lot of bed contact now, we'll see how it goes.

[Anonymous No.1807049]

>>1807033
>same as printer ink, and there is nothing you can do over it
You're an idiot if you buy name-brand printer ink.
The cartridges I'm using right now cost me $1 each from a third-party manufacturer, and I haven't had any problems with them at all.
More expensive filament might be sold in the future or even the norm, but there will never not be reasonably-priced filament. There will always be companies who would rather make steady, easy money selling cheaper to the people who don't want the fancy stuff instead of trying to compete with the giant companies who already have brand recognition in the high-end market.

[Anonymous No.1807052]

>>1806922
>There wasn't any change in bed leveling, and it was absolutely spot-on before
You might not have turned the knobs, but that doesn't mean the bed did not shift.
On my Ender 3, I typically make minor adjustments to the leveling every couple of prints at minimum, and I always print a leveling test afterward if I have particular difficulty in removing a print, just to be sure.
It might not hurt the leveling enough to cause a major effect in my prints, but jostling the bed can and does mess with the leveling to some degree, so a perfect level necessitates at least checking regularly, if not adjusting.
Depending on how you removed your previous print or whether you may have bumped the bed/printer or something in the interim, your bed may no longer be perfectly level.

[Anonymous No.1807054]

>>1806922
>I also heard some clicking from either the extruder or the spool
How often does it happen? Is it predictable?
Try observing your extruder gear while it's happening. If you see it twitching instead of smoothly turning, it means the gear is skipping and your nozzle is likely too close to the bed. The extruder is having a tough time pushing the filament out through such a small gap.

I print Sunlu PLA+ on my Ender 3 at 220C/70C for the first layer, and 200C/60C for the rest of the print. Most of their filaments don't even need the hotter first layer, but I found it helped a lot with getting their black filament to not curl up toward the nozzle when the printer lays down the first lines, and it doesn't seem to hurt anything to just leave that setting on for their other filaments.

[Anonymous No.1807064]

>>1807054
>he may have said A but he meant B

[Anonymous No.1807066]

>>1807054
>>1807064
been watching it a bit. it happens when the filament is pulled taught and it gets stuck between the filament roll and the spool. I'm printing a bearing upgrade for the spool holder soon, which hopefully will help, and just getting more plastic off the spool so it weighs less should help too. Shoulda saved my last big spool so I could offload half of it.

>>1807052
perhaps. Is warping/lifting due to an uneven bed? it just looks like ~20 layers superadhered to each other and are now half the thickness on half of the print. it's a pretty ugly print in general - wall blebs and horrible cornering (no idea what's going on there), but the warping is at least even along the y axis. if I could reliably reproduce this, it could be nice for sloping parts I guess...

I think I'm just gonna use this massive black spool for prototyping and buy some more of the brand I was previously using (gizmo dorks) if I can't get these issues resolved quickly, shit is too ugly and warping is a huge headache. but why would filament effect cornering?

these issues are making me real apprehensive of the TPU I have yet to open...

[Anonymous No.1807071]

>>1807066
>it happens when the filament is pulled taught
Huh, I wonder if it is skipping, but because it's unable to pull effectively rather than unable to push.
>Is warping/lifting due to an uneven bed?
An uneven bed might make it worse, but in my experience warping is a symptom of, essentially, "the print doesn't grip the bed tightly enough to stay put, so the thin initial layers contract as they cool and peel off the bed." The crushing of the layers together is because when the nozzle runs over the elevated portion, it's not able to push out as much plastic, so even if the bottom is raised the effect disappears on the subsequent layers.

Typical recommendations for increasing bed adhesion are cleaning the bed with rubbing alcohol or soap and water (I use the latter for my glass bed,) increasing the bed temperature so that the plastic doesn't cool/contract as much, printing with a brim to increase surface area for more adhesion, or printing on a raft so that adhesion to the bed isn't a big concern.

[Anonymous No.1807073]

>>1807066
>been watching it a bit. it happens when the filament is pulled taught and it gets stuck between the filament roll and the spool.
>these issues are making me real apprehensive of the TPU I have yet to open...
I deadass unspool my TPU myself, though I've been planning on a rotating pulley assembly to place right before the extruder block to help with this along with a proper adapter to fit on the filament spool holder concentrically to reduce rolling resistance.

[Anonymous No.1807076]

Would it be possible to print gear teeth small enough to make 608zz-size planetary gears?
3D-printed roller bearings are kind of shit since they're not very smooth compared to metal.

[Anonymous No.1807080]

>>1807066
well i fucked up the model for the print but adhesion seems p good but I could already see a teeny bit of warping at the corners. I also keep having to babysit the spool and untangle it... fuck this brand. they recommend printing at 210-235 and keeping the bed at 70-80, so I guess I'll try that on my next print. but that feels like an absurd level of energy usage when the filament I was previously using could go without a heated bed after the first layer.

>>1807071
I think it's the pulling issue. It keeps getting fucking tangled. I'm gonna swap spools tomorrow and see if I just super fucked up the leveling or something, idk. I feel like I'm going crazy.

>>1807073
Yeah, this is making me want to return it, manual untangling/unspooling is unacceptable.

[Anonymous No.1807081]

>>1807076
there are lots of print-in-place bearings on thingiverse, go read the reviews and get some lithium grease

[Anonymous No.1807082]

>>1807080
You won't need to unspool it yourself if you set it up properly. Again, I'm going to print a spacer so the spool rests on the holder concentrically and place a pulley just before the extruder block so it's not dragging across the hole in the roller arm. That should be enough. That said, I didn't see any problems in my print today when I left it too long without letting out another meter of filament off the spool.

[Anonymous No.1807085]

>>1807082
You're specifically referencing TPU?

I've got https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3732949 and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3756697 lined up to print, but snags between the filament and the spool might just prove too much to be left unattended.

[Anonymous No.1807086]

>>1807076
i have a very stiff core xy printer. with 0.4 nozzle the best i can do is 1.25 module gears. most of my gears are herringbone, so this might increase the print difficulty somewhat, but anything below 1.25 module will require a smaller nozzle (and i cba changing nozzles constantly).
you can also look into using different bearings. i use mostly 6701 and mr128 in my small gearboxes.

[Anonymous No.1807088]

>>1807081
I know, I'm using a pair of print-in-place 608zz bearings right now.
But the rolling isn't very smooth, because the bearings themselves aren't perfectly smooth. Grease might work, but I'd honestly just rather use gears which don't rely so much on surfaces sliding against each other.

[Anonymous No.1807121]

>>1806760
I have observed the exact same issue using cura. If it has something todo with flow maybe linear advance could help? I haven't configured it yet. Maybe some anon on this board could verify

[Anonymous No.1807123]

This compliant thing is growing on me.
Im trying to redesign the one on the left (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3612786)) for fdm. I know i have to step up my bridging game but it works, sort of, im sure with better bridging it will be perfect.

[Anonymous No.1807130]

>>1806377
>>1806366
A friend of mine made injection molds for shields for the price of 3 prusas. He literally makes a face shields every other minute.

>>1806448
The first version was literally a slot in a 10mm thick aluminium plate. Cost nothing if you have scrap laying around, machining it took like 2 hours. Within one day he was able to move on to making the final design.

[Anonymous No.1807132]

>>1807123
stepper motors + this on flatbed
5axis here we come

[Anonymous No.1807139]

>>1807132
Has to be metal, plastic creeps a lot.
Also forces far off on the bed might apply so much torque that the thing might not hold.
Id put the extruder on it. With some redesign you might be able to place the nozzle right at the pivot point.

[Anonymous No.1807140]

>>1807080
>>1807085
cranked initial layer flow rate to 125% (normally 110%) and line width to 110% from 100%. That + a consistently heated bed and not opening my window seem to have done the trick. except for the fact that I had to manually unspool a bunch of filament, to a degree that I dont think the roller will help. ah well, may as well print it up...

[Anonymous No.1807142]

>>1807139
fair point. it could also be nice and light with flex drive shafts. hmm...

[Anonymous No.1807147]

>>1807142
A stepper directly or though a driveshaft might not have the resolution for angular movements. Needs to be geared down too.
Not sure about the flex shaft, does it not have a lot of hysteresis int the transferred motion?

[Anonymous No.1807151]

>>1807147
>hysteresis
thank you, that's the word I was looking for when I wanted to find out about, well, flex drive shaft hysteresis. there are a few extruders based on flex shafts. I guess you'd hear about issues with oozing on those if there was a lag, though maybe retraction settings on direct drive setups make that less of an issue.
since we're on the topic, would you have to compensate for that already with the compliant mechanism?

[Anonymous No.1807160]

>>1807140
yeah, this filament straight out of the vacuum-sealed bag with silica is sticking to itself. Maybe it'll be good for strong components as it's clearly highly self-adhesive.

[Anonymous No.1807165]

This may be a bit of a pipedream, but does anyone here work with 3d printers in any capacity for their job?
I enjoy using them, modifying slicer settings, and the small tinkering occasionally needed is fun.
If you do work with them for your job, what do you do exactly, and how did you get there?

[Anonymous No.1807167]

For some retarded reason my bank says it's unsafe to order from prusa. Does anyone here have any experience with the Zaribo printers? Especially the 420?

[Anonymous No.1807170]

>>1807165
I sort of worked with a DMLS. I did a thing form my BSc in a different topic. I got hired because of the thing i did. I mostly did that thing for money at work. I started to branch out to different things at work because of interests. One of the things was metal 3dprinting. I learned to manage and operate a machine. I did it for a while (2-3 months) but the novelty wears off pretty fast with 3dp so i stopped.

[Anonymous No.1807172]

>>1807167
>zaribo mk3s clone is 960usd vs 750 for the prusa
What the actual flying fuck. Maybe try do the transaction via paypal if you can? Maybe they've just had some people with a bad experience and now they got blacklisted.
>>1807170
I see. I'm doing Soft Eng, and I'm hoping to work in Software Controls at a place I interned at over the summer, but with the rate everything's going who knows. What're you doing now if I may ask?

[Anonymous No.1807175]

>>1807172
You can end up anywhere easily so no worries. If not someone is probably inhibiting your progress or you are bad.

Im working at an university, same workplace i mentioned in my other post. I operate an industrial CT and do analysis, education is 5-10% of what i do, the rest is research or as we call it with some coworkers "playing".

[Anonymous No.1807179]

>>1807172
I think they're modified, which is what warrants the price. And Prusa doesn't have paypal in europe, sadly.

[Anonymous No.1807180]

>>1807165
don't turn your hobby into your job. you will get taken advantage of and start to abhor your hobby.

If you really want to "do" 3dp full time, youtube channel is maybe the only way to maintain integrity - you have a reason to test a million slicer settings, set up and tune a ton of different printers and setups, get free shit, etc. can you listen to recordings of your own dumb voice over and over? then you can run a little print farm, repair/tune other folks' printers, resell built and upgraded printers, whatever you want/need. I don't foresee a printer in every home, but it's definitely getting more accessible every year.

[Anonymous No.1807181]

>>1807165
I do, but it's such a small part of my job that it's not exactly essential.
I do CAD/CAM and FDM is mostly used for error-checking hole placements and fitment of parts prior to CNC. I've also used to for assembly process trials, temporary-use drilling jigs, and CMM fixturing. All just supportive prototyping for other processes.
Prior dayjob-related 3d printing work involved tolerance trials for binder jet parts.

[Anonymous No.1807183]

>>1807165
I'm studying design. And in that space they're extremely popular for making fast prototypes and models.

[Anonymous No.1807185]

>>1807165
After I did my internship at a filament manufacturer I graduated and went to work at my university (UAS). That means I maintain our 9 UM2's and some various other machinery, regulate the workload on them, and give workshops to first year students so they learn how to 3D-print shtuff for their Engineering courses.

[Anonymous No.1807191]

>>1807167
>>1807179
Frame is made from aluminium extrusions, is more sturdy, different x axis and extruder, plus the 420 has more height then stock prusa.
Standalone zaribo/bear upgrade is over 100 eur and the 420 version costs even more.
I own a bear prusa and it works great, same thing as zaribo if i'm not mistaken. The difference between stock and zaribo/bear is that there is some change in firmware if you use their modified extruder.

[Anonymous No.1807196]

>960usd for a mendel
jesus christ
for that money i could buy myself an ender and diy a superior P3 steel

[Anonymous No.1807197]

>>1807196
Is the P3 steel any good?
You barely hear from it and it's only sold by a few small Spanish shops.

[Anonymous No.1807201]

>>1806622
>dragon dicks?
See I would but hard plastic is meh. You end up having to print a cast, buy silicone and shit, have to smooth the cast unless you want the world's smallest ribs as texture, and basically at that point there's no reason not to just buy a premade one.

[Anonymous No.1807209]

>>1807196
>>1807197
>P3 steel conversion from ender 3
wait, all I'd really need to do is buy the frame, rods, and another z motor or timing belt stuff? everything else can just be cannibalized or printed? that's pretty cool.
But would that really be an upgrade?

[Anonymous No.1807210]

>>1807201
>no reason not to just buy a premade one.
Creativity is a good reason.

[Anonymous No.1807211]

>>1807209
It would make more sense if you use it to upgrade an Anet A8, since the frame it comes with is shit.

[Anonymous No.1807222]

>corexy printer with a remote direct drive system, calibrated linear rails, all metal hotend, and enclosed doors with temp regulation system
What would one do to improve a printer like this? Outside of meme shit like touch screen etc

[Anonymous No.1807223]

>>1807222
From where does the idea come from that all metal hotends are "better"? They can deal with higher temperatures, but if you don't need to go that high you're better off lining it with a high quality ptfe tube (like Capricorn).

[Anonymous No.1807225]

>>1807209
>But would that really be an upgrade?
afaik the project is meant to be a better prusa for a fraction of the cost. the ender would serve to print the parts but the idea of canibalizing an A8 is great
>>1807222
>enclosed doors with temp regulation system
counterproductive for petg, tpu and pla

[Anonymous No.1807226]

>>1807197
Allahu toolson
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QLLtDfHdhg

[Anonymous No.1807229]

>>1806669
Can't you just use your printer for that

[Anonymous No.1807230]

>>1807222
>remote direct drive system
I like that this is gaining traction. my worm drive set is on the way.
Anyway, I guess some form of ABL would be an upgrade, multifilament hotend/extruders, upgraded mainboard with TMC5160s, rPi with Octoprint and Klipper, nonplanar slicing?

>>1807223
they've probably been burned by a too-short tube but don't realize they need increased cooling on the hotend

[Anonymous No.1807232]

>>1807229
>>1806669
yeah, there are a lot of cool dremel/rotary tool attachment/mods you can print.

[Anonymous No.1807235]

>>1807229
If you already have one.

But even a cheap router is probably gonna be better at it.

[Anonymous No.1807237]

>>1806922
I found some random lube/grease in the shed and rubbed it on the ender 3 spool holder, now new 1kg rolls actually rotate much smoother rather than binding all the time then jumping forward loudly

[Anonymous No.1807239]

>>1807223
Just for material versatility. So you can print PC and PLA on the same machine without any mods.
>>1807225
You could just not turn it on in that regard.
>>1807230
>ABL
I'm torn between a 3-axis bed ABL system (and just making sure the bed is built flat) or a traditional one.
>multifilament
I'd rather have a dual hotend, one for main material, and one for PVA. MMU colour systems are imo a meme and a waste, and also not super reliable yet.
>TMC5160
Might look into the different driver types and such, sounds neat.
>rPi with octoprint and klipper
Why not just use a 32b Duet or something?
>non planar
Not something I'd imagine at this time.

[Anonymous No.1807247]

>>1807239
>32b Duet
hadn't heard of it, but damn is it pricey. I guess it includes everything you need in one board, including the TMC5160s. but the price and not knowing much about the internals vs the very well supported raspberry pi, which is just a little linux box with GPIO pins, extensive open source documentation, and Linux; meaning it can pull double duty and do other things like smarthome automation, local server, etc. MKS SGen L and SKR1.4 are both pretty cheap and those + rpi + the stepper drivers are still cheaper than the Duet. plus you can upgrade the board and stepper drivers and rPi independently as improvements and new versions are released, and sell the old parts to recoup some of the cost.
having a ton of steppers is cool I guess (no clue if you can do that with other boards) but if you don't even want to do nonplanar slicing I don't know what you'd even get out of that as the only thing I can think of using it for is nozzle angle manipulation, which idk if that's supported in any free slicers.

fuck man, who is this Duet board even for?

[Anonymous No.1807253]

>>1807223
I got mine to print Nylon, but now I haven't had a need for Nylon for over a year.

[Anonymous No.1807254]

>>1807247
>fuck man, who is this Duet board even for?
People who want a relatively simple plug and play solution that has extensive support for virtually and printer you could think of. They're the best board you can buy right now, with great support while still being open source. Several low volume printer builders utilise them because they're one less thing to worry about so you can focus on the important bits. They are overkill for most applications, and expensive so you won't ever see them in cheap chinky printers. Anyone could build a printer with a Duet kit, and their great instructions

t. mechanical engineer who (re)built two printers using Duets

[Anonymous No.1807258]

>>1807247
I haven't done that much research into it, but from what I can tell it's the leading 32b board.
Doesn't klipper have the same issue as octopi with stuttering on circles/complex objects? You mention all the things the pi can do, but that's one of the reasons I'd rather not have it as the main driver. I'm not sure if this is just me being "bloat bad hurr durr", but I'm not too keen on having an entire OS acting as a layer between my gcode and sending it out.
As for the steppers, if I went for 3 z-axis screws, I'd have 3+1(x)+1(y)+1(filament), so using 5/6 I think that's making good use of it.
All that said I didn't realise HOW expensive they were. Puts into context the guy who shorted his fan and fucked the fan pins on his duet a couple threads ago.

[Anonymous No.1807259]

>>1807247
I'd go with a PocketBeagle instead of a PI.
Thanks to the PRUs it can directly drive the stepper drivers.

[Anonymous No.1807263]

>>1806665
I should have posted an image with this, this is after i cleaned up most of the strings

[Anonymous No.1807267]

>>1807258
>3+1+1+1 = 5

[Anonymous No.1807268]

>>1807267
I mistyped sorry desu. I was thinking about the support for 5 hotends at the time, but chose not to bother mentioning it.
Also VERY cute birds.

[Anonymous No.1807283]

>>1807254
>with great support while still being open source
oh, cool, good to know. I can see dropping it in if it's for a client.
still, for the hobbyist with one printer in his closet and who (in theory) enjoys tinkering, I think the huge savings could be put towards other things.
>SKR 1.4/MKS SGen L
$20-30, just replace it when a big enough upgrade comes out and sell the old one. it'll be a while, I think these new versions are pretty recent
>rPi 3b+
$40, you'll probably never need to replace this. but, you can. and you can do all the other cool raspberry pi stuff. make a pi hole. add a pi cam and make timelapses. spin up a local media and (paper) print server with SAMBA and CUPS.
>5x TMC2208/2209 if you need sensorless homing for some reason/5160 if you want sensorless homing and think SPI is way better than UART.
$30-60, 2208s seem fine to me but who knows. at least they aren't soldered to the board. 5160s are pricey.
You save like $100 which can be put into other upgrades like silent fans, a BLTouch, a dual hotend, magnetic bed (forgot to mention that), what have you. plus you still have upgrade paths for the individual components if you're not happy for whatever reason, and people will still snap up those old components. or start making your second printer when you upgrade.

>>1807258
no clue about stuttering, first I've heard of it. interesting that you dont want to add that layer...octoprint has a ton of cool functions like exclusion zones, PSU control with a relay, etc. Again, don't know much about the Duet and don't care to at that price point, so idunno what kinda web interface & plugins it supports.
>guy who shorted his fan and fucked the fan pins on his duet
oh lawd no

>>1807259
>PocketBeagle
>directly drive the stepper drivers
is this advantageous? I genuinely don't know

[Anonymous No.1807287]

>>1806829
when you say natural or clear, do you mean the one that is translucent? As in plastic without any color added to it?
I find different versions of white/pearl colors when looking for natural PLA and transparent colors when looking for clear, and im not sure if these are the right terms.

[Anonymous No.1807289]

>>1807283
>$40, you'll probably never need to replace this. but, you can.
I've ran a rPi in a GRR X500 and it was considered a consumable. Heat kept frying it.
>and you can do all the other cool raspberry pi stuff.
Duet is a print server right out of the box, no tinkering required. They have supports for certain webcams so you can make timelapses and keep an eye on your print from a room away, or even a country away with a proper VPN.

Sure, they make little sense for a home gamer (although they are pretty cool if you can afford it), they're more for the kind of people who want a simple intuitive interface, easy install, and the silent fans, BLTouch, dual V6 Volcano hotend, magnetic bed, fancy steppers and [REDACTED].

[Anonymous No.1807290]

>>1807247

Which Duet are you talking about, the 3 or the 2? The 3 has the 5160s and it's really intended for CNC's and overengineered printers. The canbus can support up to 24 steppers in theory...

The duet2 series is intended for printers, it uses TMC2660's and has wifi (or ethernet depending on the model) so you can access all the controls via a web interface. It's the most popular and supported 32b board right now, it used to be the Smoothieboard years ago but that has faded into obscurity a bit. The Duet has a lot of neat features like stepper expansions that allow you to add 5 more steppers, config your own macros for toolchangers etc. As far as price it's not as good as getting a Pi andcheaper board separately, but it's ready to go with all the features out of the box.

[Anonymous No.1807297]

>>1807167
Since when does the bank get to tell you what you get to do with your money?

[Anonymous No.1807301]

>>1807283
>is this advantageous? I genuinely don't know
The main system shares memory with the PRU, so it can directly put data into it really quickly without overhead (I guess you could get something like that with a microcontroller that supports DMA through SPI too though but it wouldn't be as simple as with a BeagleBone).

[Anonymous No.1807302]

>>1807290
Smoothieboard's firmware is pretty good and still actively developed.
And the new version of the Smoothieboard had a succesful kickstarter and is currently being produced.

I think the Duet is more popular mostly because >muh arduino and flashier features like WiFi and touch panels.

[Anonymous No.1807305]

>>1807287
>plastic without any color added to it
Yes. For PLA and Nylon it's a translucent-ish off-white, for PET it's clear. I've never had a brittle roll of natural, makes me think the pigments degrade the plastic sometimes.
It also just looks good.

[Anonymous No.1807306]

>>1807289
>Duet is a print server right out of the box, no tinkering required.
>>1807290
>As far as price it's not as good as getting a Pi andcheaper board separately, but it's ready to go with all the features out of the box.
cmon, this is /diy/. throw some /g/ in there, learn a lil.
also, keep in mind that most people here seem to have Ender 3s and thus Ender 3 budgets.

>>1807301
oh god I'm too idiot/uneducated to understand this. are you saying it'd be faster than any sort of hat or breakout stepper adapter for the rPi? is the I/O really that limiting?
If 4 or 5 axis printing becomes a thing, I guess I'll care then, but I'll probably need/want a whole 'nother printer by then and can just start anew.

folks, my main point is that the Duet seems like overkill for a hobbyist, I get that there are cool features and all.

[Anonymous No.1807310]

>>1807306
>folks, my main point is that the Duet seems like overkill for a hobbyist,
This was already acknowledged quite a few posts ago, I don't see why you need to keep beating that drum.

[Anonymous No.1807313]

>>1807310
because people keep reiterating how great it is as a drop-in board. but hey, if we're all on the same page, all is good.

[Anonymous No.1807320]

>>1807283
You can get a Chink Duet 2 clone for $60 which is crazy good value.

[Anonymous No.1807353]

>>1807167
>>1807297
>>1807172
It's a vaguely-known issue and you should probably ignore it unless you see something really off. It's likely due to the fact that it's an overseas company and if anon's purchase history doesn't have anything like that (or if the bank's anti-fraud software is overzealous) it might be marked as an "unsafe" purchase.

[Anonymous No.1807371]

>>1807165
Yep, on a pretty much daily basis.

>what do I do
I prototype new parts for assemblies, some of which end up getting traditionally manufactured but a lot of which stay with the prototype as a proof of concept until they're refined into the final iteration. I also am the caretaker of our print lab and am the one who services them, teaches new employees how to use them, and provide general tips/guidance/best practice advice.

>how did you get there
Back in 2012, saw that 3D printers were emerging as a useful tool for prototyping and design - got a lasercut plywood kit for my birthday, tinkered around with it for a bit, then got disappointed with the results (3mm ABS in a cold room doesn't make for good prints, and I wasn't experienced enough to diagnose my problems).

Things really took off when I got my second printer. I started really learning how to make the models properly, what to do and what not to do, and even sold enough prints to mostly make up the cost of my printer. Eventually I was confident enough that I put that experience on my resume - now, I work at a space company doing what I described above, and more.

[Anonymous No.1807385]

>>1807222
>What would one do to improve a printer like this?
Scrap the corexy and put on a dual wire ganty with 2 carriages for idex.
Get rid of the backlash monster that is a remote direct drive and put a leightweight servo bldc extruder instead.

[Anonymous No.1807415]

>>1807385
>dual wire gantry
now thats interesting
summer project will be modding my dust catching replicator to this style kinematic
extruder sounds interesting but need to dig more

[Anonymous No.1807419]

>>1807385
>backlash monster that is a remote direct drive
can you explain this please?

[Anonymous No.1807428]

>>1807419
The flexible shafts used by remote direct drive systems are not rotationally stiff they don't work well with the sudden direction changes during retraction.

[Anonymous No.1807434]

>>1807415
I'm not sure why you're even entertaining this guy. IDEX is a big fat meme solution for a non-problem. Other than mirrored printing it serves no real purpose. And not sure why you would put a brushless DC motor on an extruder. They have less torque but can revolve many more times per minute, it serves 0 purpose. And weight savings will be lost with torque, so you might as well just go with smaller stepper or better yet just keep the remote direct drive since it probably wins against any actual on-site motor.

[Anonymous No.1807436]

>>1807428
Find one occasion where that's been a problem

[Anonymous No.1807444]

>>1807434
im not the guy with the remote direct drive
just interesting in the wire gantry as i could make my dusted not used printer 40x lighter with 6 well designed print parts and fishing line is dirt cheap
weight wise beside flex i dont see a reason to ditch bowden (initially)

[Anonymous No.1807470]

>>1807434
>not sure why you would put a brushless DC motor on an extruder. They have less torque but can revolve many more times per minute.
Even with the weight of an adequate gearbox the power/weight of a BLDC is better than any stepper.

[Anonymous No.1807473]

>>1807470
A stepper is a brushless dc motor.

[Anonymous No.1807475]

>>1807470
Can you link one?

[Anonymous No.1807478]

>>1807470
>DC motor on gearbox
Wouldn't you lose position data, unless you added an encoder? And aren't encoders stupid expensive?

[Anonymous No.1807483]

Anyone have a good brand recommendation for transparent PLA filament? These amazon listings are sketchy.

[Anonymous No.1807484]

>>1807478
Hence the servo

[Anonymous No.1807486]

>>1807478
You only need relative position.
So all you'd need is a plastic disc with black markings and a light sensor. That's what cheap inkjets do.

[Anonymous No.1807503]

>>1807473
right. My vocabulary isn't that good. I mean the typical non stepping BLDCs with 3 coils.
>>1807475
Brushless metal gear RC servos offer geared down BLDCs in a light package.
>HBS 880 BB MG
>220 N/cm
>148 r/min
>69 g
And no I don't use the potentiometer in there.
I use an AS5047P to close the loop.

[Anonymous No.1807507]

>>1807503
>66 eurorinos
how does it handle retracts?
i know servos are made to withstand moving back and forth but retracts sound like the absolute worst case scenario for a long geartrain

[Anonymous No.1807512]

>>1807507
>how does it handle retracts?
Not at all yet. It's an unfinished side project.
Only time will tell. I made sure to pick one with a metal gear train since those with composite gears seem to break when used on helicopter swashplates.

[Anonymous No.1807530]

>>1807297
Because the bank could be liable for fraud, they then put in anti-fraud measures, which prevent someone stealing your card and immediately draining your entire bank account in a random jewelry store or on online game keys or however they wash money these days. Instead your bank will see all these charges which are highly atypical and call you up and double-check what's going on.
As part of that it could involve flagging "shady" stuff, which could include chink sites, and telling you it could be unsafe. They lose nothing by doing that (unless they accidentally flag some prominent, popular retailer, and get laughed at for one news cycle), they gain legal standing in their due dilligence against fraud (potentially being able to say: "we told them it could be unsafe, they spent their money anyway, not our fault"), and it could also be actually effective at scaring away boomers and retardo normies from actual scam sites.

For example, first time I ever bought on aliexpress, my card was blocked and I had to call up my bank and get asked some security questions before they unblocked it, because it was so atypical for my spending patterns up until then.

[Anonymous No.1807534]

>>1807503
>>HBS 880 BB MG
What's the power and RPM? How are you gearing it down?

[Anonymous No.1807536]

>>1807484
Isn't that exactly just the motor plus an encoder

[Anonymous No.1807542]

>>1807534
Pretty sure I posted the neccessary info.
>>1807536
+control loop

[Anonymous No.1807544]

My Ender's wheels are growing fuzz. How long do they have before my printer shits the bed (pun intended)?

[Anonymous No.1807564]

>>1807483
I have used some Creazone clear PETG from aliexpress, and it works pretty well. Just make sure its dry.

[Anonymous No.1807583]

>>1807428
but direct drives retract less, so isn't it a that offset? especially with a 40:1 worm gear, it rotates so little, no?

[Anonymous No.1807596]

>>1807544
it has to wear itself in like a glock

[Anonymous No.1807607]

>>1807596
>it has to wear itself in like a glock
>glock
>break-in period

[Anonymous No.1807609]

>>1807607
yeah the slide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rduVAVrQCM

[Anonymous No.1807616]

I want to get a beginner printer soon, and I don't want to buy chinese
prusa mini won't be shipping until August which is a bit too long for me

what's up with repraps?
I saw some prusa i3 repraps on ebay for like ~€100, but prusa sells kits for like ~€700, so are the cheap ones just low quality or what's going on there?

any advice otherwise?
kind thinking of a <€200 monoprice select mini v2 to cover me until August

[Anonymous No.1807627]

>>1807616
>are the cheap ones just low quality
In a nutshell: yes.
You're likely to get warped parts, cheap metal screws which snap/strip, crunchy bearings, badly-soldered electronics, poorly-cut extruder gears, underspec'd connectors and a cut-rate PSU.

Not saying these things WILL happen but most of the time some shit goes wrong in these threads it's either due to flagrant user error or "oops my power connector melted because the wires aren't rated for it" or some such shit like that. The cheaper you go, the cheaper THEY will go - there's only so many things you can skimp on and still turn a profit.

I can't vouch for the Mini V2 since I haven't worked with it but I guarantee you the #1 complaint people here will throw at it is
>cantilevered
and won't back it up with any proof most of the time. Since it's not a CNC and has low forces that design should be fine unless your axis is made from cooked spaghetti.

[Anonymous No.1807643]

>>1807253
>>1807223
My stock CR-10 with an insulated bed and cardboard enclosure prints ABS and nylon. I have a large nylon print going right now and want to dye it but need to test dye on smaller test prints before committing to the actual print (totally not a gun). What are some small, useful prints I can do in nylon that would be good test subjects? The only thing that comes to mind are hose couplings, but that would probably be better for ABS anyways. I can't think of anything that needs a gear and I really don't want to resort to low poly pikachus.

[Anonymous No.1807655]

>>1807643
Let me know how it goes, I'm going to get into printing not guns soon. I'm gonna print a not luger model first to make sure it's up to printing parts.

[Anonymous No.1807663]

>>1807655
be careful with materials with flex when it comes to glonks. PLA+ can be used for damn near everything, but using PLA feels like cheating. glass filled nylon is the endgame, anon. If you can get your printer to print that, you win.

[Anonymous No.1807667]

>>1807663
I'm gonna make my not glock into a not flux frame. It'll be cool. Also going to try to develop a skoripion mag well for the not FGC. Call it the FGC-V.

[Anonymous No.1807695]

>>1807667
WTF > FGC

[Anonymous No.1807720]

>>1807695
?
Link?

[Anonymous No.1807731]

>>1807720
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8vAkIF4wDE

[Anonymous No.1807745]

>>1807731
That's just a modified FGC. Mine will be similar but a bit longer.

[Anonymous No.1807750]

Hey lads, acrylic printing newbie here.
Could you tell why I keep getting these results when I try to use supports? I use LongerWare to generate the supports, but it always has the final print de-attached & resting on the acrylic pool

[Anonymous No.1807753]

>>1807750
Supports too thin? Looks like they all terminate on the same layer. What's the other part look like?

[Anonymous No.1807762]

Im tired of printing at 60mm/s. How do I get over 100mm/s. Do I have to build a custom printer?

[Anonymous No.1807763]

>>1807745
>modified FGC
bro, you got it completely backwards.

[Anonymous No.1807767]

>>1807763
>backwards
The FGC comes from the AP-9, dude.

[Anonymous No.1807770]

>>1807753
It's just a circle, a printing test.
I'm unsure if I should add more plate layers? Using 2 right now

[Anonymous No.1807787]

>>1807123
how's this design coming along? I want to test my bridging and cooling so this should be a cool torture test

[Anonymous No.1807788]

>>1807762
the guy who designed this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3816051 claims 100mm/s
i don't know how klipper affects things, but for me, minimum layer time is often a bottleneck. guess it depends on that/your parts cooling and your other slicer settings and ultimately how much ringing/ghosting you're willing to accept

in Cura, you can use ChangeAtZ to modify print speed at given height or layer, find a good test print and have at it

[Anonymous No.1807804]

>>1807762
there was a guy who sold them but I think he stopped. shit was nuts.

[Anonymous No.1807805]

>>1807767
You know who made the AP9, right?

[Anonymous No.1807871]

I'm at my wit's end here. Trying to print nylon and have had the heat break, not the nozzle - the HEAT BREAK clog FOUR times. WTF is going on? I'm printing at the recommended temperature and speeds and my printer handles everything else just fine. I can't imagine what would lead to the nozzle being clear but it jamming at the heat break.

[Anonymous No.1807901]

>>1807871
What's your retraction settings?

[Anonymous No.1807905]

>>1807901

[Anonymous No.1807909]

>>1807905
perhaps try print with the min and max rec seperately? What's your hotend setup like? Also do you have a picture of the filament clog itself?

[Anonymous No.1807914]

>>1807909
>hotend setup
standard direct E3D V6 hotend, nothing fancy as far as I can tell.
>picture
I'd take of the bits I fish out, but it's too dark to get a proper one, so I'll do that tomorrow. They all pretty much look the same - kind of the color of caramelized sugar.

[Anonymous No.1807916]

>>1807871
>>1807914
There is likely a gap between the heat break and the nozzle. To make sure you fix that, take the hotend apart. First you thread the nozzle in as far as it'll go, then unthread a full turn. Thread the heat break in untill it butts up against the nozzle, heat the whole thing to 290 degrees, and then tighten the nozzle to the heater block using 1Nm of torque or thereabouts. Using this method ensures that there is no gap between heat break and nozzle, and thus no clogs.

[Anonymous No.1807917]

>>1807914
I'm not interested in the colour, but the shape.

[Anonymous No.1807933]

My ikea record shelf started to crack in the middle so it needed some supports.
Bloody ikea is closed so I had to make my own supports. Immitated the ikea VALTER, which is also in the rest of my room. spray painted it black

The bed tension of the print was so strong, it delaminated the magnetic bed of the carrier.

I hope you guys like my blog. Make sure to check out my patreon, it really helps. Thumbs up and catch you next time.

[Anonymous No.1807935]

>>1807933
From those skirts it looks like your nozzle was half a mil to far away from the bed. Surprised your adhesion was that strong.

[Anonymous No.1807936]

>>1807933
That looks like a waste of filament.
I'd just print some corner pieces so you can use simple pieces of wood to replace it without requiring accurate mitre cuts.

[Anonymous No.1807937]

>>1807935
tuned it in while skirting

[Anonymous No.1807939]

>>1807936
Yeah I know. I moved and I don't have a woodshop anymore, which sucks l big time. I used to build massive speakers and tables and stuff

[Anonymous No.1807971]

>>1807933
A normal horizontal crossbar would have sufficed probably

[Anonymous No.1808002]

Are these the best I can likely get with an FDM printer? Using a prusa mk3 printing PLA at 75% speed, 0.10mm layer height in a 0.4mm nozzle. Did not print with supports, figured they were too small for supports.

Trying to print some printed so we can play after the lock down.

[Anonymous No.1808007]

>>1808002
Can you try get some better photos?

[Anonymous No.1808008]

>>1808002
>the best I can likely get with an FDM printer?
by far not but its the best you can achieve
ive seen fdm printed shit downscaled to 5x5x5mm still with detail, but these guys know what they do

[Anonymous No.1808023]

>>1808002
I could consider a smaller nozzle

[Anonymous No.1808066]

>>1807933
shitty chink printer, liftoff at one corner, magnetic bed liftoff at another baka

[Anonymous No.1808088]

>>1808002
Get a smaller nozzle

[Anonymous No.1808109]

Anyone have any opinions on PLA bushings? I'm about to ditch the chinkshit LM8UUs in my Maker Select v2.1. There's a bunch of models on Thingiverse and I'm leaning towards the spiral ones printed in vase mode.

[Anonymous No.1808125]

>>1808109
plastic on metal rod introduces stickiness, especial on turn point or if bushings are jamming due to misalignment (doesnt take much)
sinter bronce bushing are 1$ each

feel free to try it out but tell us how it went

[Anonymous No.1808129]

>>1808109
I used to use these kind of bushing :
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13631
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:97041

[Anonymous No.1808140]

[Anonymous No.1808153]

>>1808140
Yes, but can it play DooM?

[Anonymous No.1808178]

>>1808007
I've printed it at 150% size with supports at 0.10mm layers. I put the speed down to 75%. Still grainy, but he is a barely 9mm tall "special character" for genestealers.

Any tips on improving this on the Prusa mk3? Hopefully the pictures are better Anon.

[Anonymous No.1808194]

I have some old filament from 5 years ago that I never finished with and its all I ever use. However I bought some pla+ recently and it prints a lot better. One thing I noticed is that the old filament snaps when its bent more than 90 degrees but the new filament doesnt snap at all.
Should I get rid of the old filament. Im down to like a 1.5kgs. It came with my printer so its probably extremely generic.

[Anonymous No.1808248]

>>1808194
It's drawn in moisture probably. You can try drying it in a heated environment but it's probably easier to just toss it

[Anonymous No.1808260]

>>1808178
should have bought a prusa... sl1

[Anonymous No.1808313]

Hey guys. This is my first ever print. My grandad loves chess so I scanned his head using "3d Creator" on my Xperia and made a simple chess king using the very simple Tinkercad.

Used my buddies printer and I have my own very cheap one on the way.

For a first attempt I'm happy with the result. I need to toy with the design a bit to make it suit the printing process and I need to get some different software which is accessible for a noob like me but has more powerful design tools. Any suggestions? Tinkercad is by Autodesk I believe and I know it was designed for kids but I enjoyed using it.

[Anonymous No.1808314]

>>1808178
... you could do better with a hot glue gun.

[Anonymous No.1808338]

>>1807933
H A I R S P R A Y

[Anonymous No.1808339]

>>1808140
Doesn't work on my machine

[Anonymous No.1808356]

>>1808339
You update the firmware lately? Need to be on the latest version

[Anonymous No.1808377]

>>1808338
Why not just use a glue stick. I still have a bottle of that popular hairspray from a few years ago but some people found out it's carcinogenic or something

[Anonymous No.1808380]

>>1808377
Ideally you'd already have some hairspray and just use that.

[Anonymous No.1808406]

>>1808356
I thought it notified me whenever there was an update; guess I'll have to do it manually.

[Anonymous No.1808421]

>>1808313
clean your nozzle

[Anonymous No.1808441]

https://youtu.be/A_BlNA7bBxo

I know how you like v-slot rollers

[Anonymous No.1808447]

>>1808194
if the cost isn't a factor and you have plenty of filament, why not chuck it?

[Anonymous No.1808455]

>>1808441
hes so smart and funny but his acne

[Anonymous No.1808465]

>>1808455
The only statement i can agree with is the acne.

[Anonymous No.1808467]

>>1808455
>>1808465
Hormones are hitting him like a brick. I like to think Reeves is what I would have been had I not completely and utterly abandoned my skills to rot for ten years to the point I forgot Ohm's fucking law. At least I can CAD now.

[Anonymous No.1808470]

Just put together a Prusa i3 (or knockoff Prusa i3) that I ordered from aliexpress three years ago for $105 and had sitting in a box until now.

I tend to have issues with PLA where it ends up sticking to the printer head while printing, which drags around the object overall. Is my layer height just too small overall?

Current settings are:
Layer Height: 0.2 mm
Print Speed: 30
Filament: PLA 1.75mm
Flow: 100%
Print Temp: 220c
Bed temp: 50c

[Anonymous No.1808481]

>>1808455
>>1808465
At this point I think they might be acne scars.
He's probably going to have them for the rest of his life.

[Anonymous No.1808486]

>>1808441
Why do extrusion rollers JUST WERK despite people constantly saying they're not precise enough?

[Anonymous No.1808504]

Virtue signaling at its finest. Great job fucking up the model with counterproductive "improvements" and flexing your ignorance of the topic.

[Anonymous No.1808507]

>>1808470
>Is my layer height just too small overall?
No, all your settings seem fine. Maybe a bit high print temp, and a bit low bed temp, but that's not the core issue. It's not the pritns are sticking to your nozzle, they are not sticking to the bed, that's the problem. Clean the fuck out of it, relevel, level again, level again just to be sure, and look at the first layer. Is it squishing down those lines properly?

>>1808486
Because in the sense of precision instruments they are not precise enough. However, FDM 3D-printers are not precision instruments and if you can get them to print to within 0.1mm you're generally accurate enough for whatever it is you're doing - if not, reevaluate whether FDM printing is the way to make your desired object.
The best way I've seen engineering described is as follows: the science of distributing limited resources to make products to defined requirements. If you have the resources to go with lineair rails, and your requirement is that you don't want to have to doubt the accuracy of your movement system, by all means, go with linear rails. On a tight budget? Accuracy isn't the end goal? Go with V-slots.
Just because it's a compromise doesn't mean it's bad. Anything is a compromise in engineering.

[Anonymous No.1808511]

>>1808066
Yes, the magnetic bed isn,t great, wouldn't recommend it.

>>1808338
It stuck perfectly fine to the build tak, no need for hairspray.
The tension was so strong, that it ripped the build tak sheet off the glued magnetic carrier

PETG prints in this size make massive tension, even at 80°C bed.

>>1807971
No, the pressure on the shelf is more outwards and it wouldn't match my other shelfes in the room

[Anonymous No.1808532]

>>1806563
Just a heads up but the spreadsheet in OP should absolutely not be trusted.

[Anonymous No.1808536]

>>1806782
>Also any tips on printer settings for miniatures?
Get an SLA. The best you can hope for on a FDM is comparable to a failed SLA print.

[Anonymous No.1808540]

>>1806563
What are the actual advantages of the SL1 and the Form3 over the Photon or the Mars? Ignoring build volume here.

[Anonymous No.1808549]

>>1808504
>Great job fucking up the model with counterproductive "improvements"
The point of the improvements was to be able to advertise multiple tools in a topical virtue signalling post. I'd say they were very productive for that. You've always gotta keep your goals in mind when designing, you know?

[Anonymous No.1808589]

>want to upgrade to magnetic effector
>get/print all the parts
>put it all together and install the new carriages
>can't even run auto calibration without the rods slipping off

Fuck, I've reverted everything back now.
How do people get this to work?

I'm gonna modify the parts for larger magnets and design something to improve cable management. Maybe that will help.

[Anonymous No.1808600]

>>1808589
im gonna say the prus word

[Anonymous No.1808610]

>>1808002
Yeah, pretty much. I tried printing 6mm space marines, and apart from the obvious difficulties with thin parts and stringing, you really get fucked by retractions. The problem is that so little filament is extruded before each retraction, causing the extruder to keep rolling the same bit of filament back and forth and eventually grinding right through it. The best way to deal with it is to print each mini individually and purge between each one (or even mid print); the problem you're then run into though is radiating excess heat into the model by keeping the nozzle on it for so long (as opposed to travelling to a different model to print that layer).

[Anonymous No.1808611]

>>1808178
Yikes, that's garbage.
Pic related is a 6mm scale mini.

[Anonymous No.1808617]

>>1808178
Have a crack at printing scenery instead. If you search hard enough maybe you will find the secret pirate place.

[Anonymous No.1808630]

>>1808540
Build volume is a big one. Resin is another, sla printers use stronger lasers than the UV lights in DLP printers per unit area so they can cure different resins. The laser also traces a path so as long as the motors and controller allows it can create a continuous path unlike the lcd which has strpsnbecause it's a grid, although anti-aliasing is supposed to help. The form 3 laser is also the most precise (smallest spot/highest resolution) SLA/DLP available iirc.

[Anonymous No.1808631]

>>1808540
The prusa sl1 is just a LCD printer like the chinese ones. But it has a tilt vat which c a help reduce defects, failures, and elongation when the build platform pulls up

[Anonymous No.1808647]

>>1808611
Damn, is that an FDM printer? Tell me your secrets Anon so we can play some Epic. I only need to print some genestealers.

[Anonymous No.1808653]

>thingiverse shitting the bed
>again
It's remarkable how bad that fucking website is.

[Anonymous No.1808659]

>>1808611
airbrush nozzi?

[Anonymous No.1808675]

https://youtu.be/l8m3tsg24e8
This looks elegant but would it actually be any good in practice?

[Anonymous No.1808677]

>>1808675
That's just a delta.
And it looks worse than Rostock or Kossel based designs.

[Anonymous No.1808683]

>>1808677
I was referring to the leadscrew based axes.

[Anonymous No.1808703]

>>1808683
the leadscrew implementation is botch
i dont expect correct engineering from printer manufacturers but come on
>no thrustbearing (acceptable due to low load)
>no bottom location bearing, ridgid coupler
>top bearing fixed, not floating
>screw likely chinkshit bent
>screw has no round fit, coupler srews on threads directly
>single short guiding bearing guaranteed to jam due to applied sideforce
its Z wobble hell but this time the wobble affects X/Y too
If i ever build a delta maybe i steal the concept but better designed on the moving elements
pic related, a proper spindle with tolerance class and round end fit

[Anonymous No.1808705]

>>1808703
Or just don't be a special snowflake and use belts - there's fuck all force.

[Anonymous No.1808713]

>>1808705
I'd imagine fishing line would be kickass on a delta
make the top pulley moveable to adjust tension, tension all axis equal with guitar tuner
even lower inertia than a belt and less "springiness" than steel wire

[Anonymous No.1808721]

>>1808705
>>1808713
What if we used a metal version of the rack and pinion system this guy used for his y-axis
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ob4yieqQDis

[Anonymous No.1808729]

>>1808721
way outside my expertise
Coupling with gears transmit motor vibrations on the other side of the gear train. There is no decoupling (same for the leadscrew one)
Then you'd have to mount the motors at the center height, racing the point of mass upwards

[Anonymous No.1808735]

What's a good cheap 3D printer I can get that can do both metal and plastic?

[Anonymous No.1808738]

Been thinking of getting a 3D printer lately, but some of the comments I see make it seem like a lot of work to use the thing... Is that typical? How much time you typically gotta spend calibrating, troubleshooting, fixing, tinkering, etc rather than just printing cool stuff you wanted?

[Anonymous No.1808739]

>>1808738
Also I'm not really worried about the initial setup process, I know usually you gotta assemble the things yourself which is gonna take some time, more like intermittent maintenance/troubleshooting which I see a lot of people hyping a lot in various youtubes/comments and stuff I've seen browsing aorund

[Anonymous No.1808740]

>>1808738
It really depends on your aptitude with machines, and sometimes it's just bad luck with chinese components.
I use a Anycubic i3 mega S - it just werks - for the jobs I need it/it was intended for.

[Anonymous No.1808744]

>>1808659
Nope, cheap 0.4 Mk8 nozzle at 0.08mm layer height.

>>1808647
The secret is temperature management. Firstly these were printed at 40mm/s (also all accelerations set to 5) which is faster than people expect, but the reason is to avoid the hot end radiating heat into a model with really low thermal mass. Same reason I explained here: >>1808610
>the problem you're then run into though is radiating excess heat into the model by keeping the nozzle on it for so long (as opposed to travelling to a different model to print that layer).

The second key is excellent part cooling. I had a petsfang with a 5015 blower fan. The reason for this is (apart from overhangs) removing as much heat as quickly as possible.

I've got more images here:
https://imgur.com/a/MWAp7QO#VdO4s89

[Anonymous No.1808746]

Can the Ender 3 do PETG/ABS out of the box? Or you need to buy more stuff for this?

[Anonymous No.1808747]

>>1808721
Didn't watch it, but gears have way too much backlash for a 3d printing motion system.

[Anonymous No.1808748]

Is everyone buying filament like crazy to print masks or something? So much is out of stock.

[Anonymous No.1808749]

>>1808746
petg yes
abs no
the hotend fanshroud blows all over the part, you have to print something that isolates airflow

[Anonymous No.1808750]

>>1808738
>>1808739
Not gonna lie printers can be a pain in the ass when they want to be.
You can avoid a lot of grief by getting a popular model that way if problems do arise you're more likely to find the solution from google than having to solve it yourself.

[Anonymous No.1808759]

>>1808470
nozzle too low, relevel with a folded over paper if you did with a single layer last time. also check the shroud for anything that could catch on your print.

>>1808504
wow, what an idiot.
>hospital feedback was that most original designs had too much venting up top and allowed in droplets
>redesigns all fix that and potentially add a shield
>then this dumbass comes along and removes all that, we're back to square one

>>1807933
was this really easier than buying cheap metal supports? I think a lot of 3d print folks think that their printer is the world's hammer for all nails

>>1808610
set max retractions and min layer time?

>>1808653
i think they're seeing way more traffic than usual. most sites are. for some, every day has as much traffic as their biggest days outside of pandemic and they just aren't equipped to deal with that. Try making a new collection on Thingiverse and saving to it - it may not even be in the list because their database cluster can't keep up.

>>1808738
it's a /diy/ hobby. you gotta do a lot of DIY - build, maintenance, calibrate, troubleshoot, maintain, calibrate, do it all over again. just buy printed things if you can't find it commercially otherwise and you don't want to do the fiddling. for a lot of the community, upgrading your own printer and getting a good benchy is all they ACTUALLY care about, the rest is cope

>>1808746
>>1808749
in theory yes. could just turn off the parts cooling fan while printing and drop your speed.

[Anonymous No.1808764]

>>1808532
>spreadsheet in OP should absolutely not be trusted
Way to not provide any supporting arguments. Why not?

[Anonymous No.1808767]

>>1808735
>that can do both metal and plastic
...You mean like, *print* metal? Literally none. The best you can hope for is probably something like Bronzefill or one of the materials you can send in to get sintered and processed. Full-metal home printing is still unattainable for most people.

[Anonymous No.1808771]

>>1808744
Found some more images, so I had to remake the album because imgur's UI is dogshit.
https://imgur.com/gallery/e8nJZ12

[Anonymous No.1808774]

>>1808759
>set max retractions and min layer time?
Then you'd get oozing, zits and more strings. The problem is that you are printing so many small islands that you just can't extrude enough .

[Anonymous No.1808788]

Can I print good quality stuff on an Ender 3 or do I gotta shell out $1000+ to actually get stuff with fine details & stuff

[Anonymous No.1808790]

So is there any real way to have near silent cooling or is it just not possible due to the small size of the fans required.

[Anonymous No.1808793]

>>1808507
>>1808759
To re-level something with a piece of paper, should I put the paper on the bed and see if the nozzle catches it? Would this mean that the nozzle is too low?

[Anonymous No.1808794]

>>1808790
remote cooling

[Anonymous No.1808795]

>>1808790
water cooled hotend on 360 radiator
print abs without part cooling
or pla with big 140mm fans infront

[Anonymous No.1808797]

>>1808788
my ender 3 prints good quality

[Anonymous No.1808799]

>>1808793
lots of videos on YT, but basically yeah. it should have slight resistance on the paper.

>>1808788
look up comparisons of FDM vs SLA and decide if you can accept details from plastic or need resin. plus how much time are you willing to spend on calibration and post-processing

>>1808790
bigger fans at lower RPMs, maybe
water cooling still requires fans but you could use a huge radiator with 2 massive fans and run them real low

[Anonymous No.1808805]

>>1808771
Those are some great pics. I'll probably leave off printing infantry with FDM, seems like a lot of hassle. You in Ireland with a username like that? I am too.

[Anonymous No.1808806]

Why is it that when I load the same part into both makerbot and cura, the cura version is ~1.5mm larger in one dimension?
>inb4 don't print it like that
I know, but these are the screenshots I've got on hand

Also, my experience has been that makerbots print holes undersized. Is this deliberate, or just bad resolution on the printer's part?

[Anonymous No.1808816]

>>1808806
Which one is the correct size?
Atm my guess is that parts in cura are not parallel to x axis, but are just a bit squed. From picture it looks like makerbot is measuring in local coordinate system and cura in global coordinate system

[Anonymous No.1808819]

>>1808799
Nice, thanks for the help.
20 minutes into calibrating it and it seems to be much better than before at least.

[Anonymous No.1808833]

>>1807787
Not enough time right now but ill post it in here for sure when im done.
Took 20 minutes in a cad software to do the first thingy from ground up including fiddling with dimensions.
Took the same amount of time to place 5 cubes in OpenSCAD.

[Anonymous No.1808842]

>>1808816
The makerbot dimension is the correct one.

[Anonymous No.1808846]

>>1808816
>>1808842
Just tried to replicate the issue and now both versions are correct. Odd.

[Anonymous No.1808847]

>>1808805
South Wales.

[Anonymous No.1808872]

>>1808109
Alright, got the bearings seasoned and installed.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2202854

Ended up using these since the spiral ones didn't work with my blocks. I'll holler back at y'all here in a few months and let you know about my experience with PLA bushings.

[Anonymous No.1808882]

Are there any good corexy kits that are enclosed? I was looking at the voron or hypercube but it seems like they're not really designed to be enclosed

[Anonymous No.1808893]

Have you ever tried printing a dong on your 3D printer?

Any tips to make it come out right?

[Anonymous No.1808896]

Why does everyone always make that boat thing

[Anonymous No.1808901]

>>1808893
No, but don't using FDM printed dongs for penetration. All kinds of shite gets between layers, that's just asking for nasty infections.

>>1808896
It's a benchmark test (hence the name benchy) which is a neat small model that can test your FDM printer in various ways such as accuracy, bridging, overhangs, etc.
http://www.3dbenchy.com/

[Anonymous No.1808908]

>>1808901
not him, but wouldn't you be fine using an fdm dildo so long as you sealed it with an epoxy layer to keep bacteria out of the grooves?

[Anonymous No.1808909]

>>1808833
>Took 20 minutes...to place 5 cubes in OpenSCAD
lol, you get used to it somewhat quickly. good luck

>>1808872
interested. printed a couple test prints and the spiked self-centering version seemed to work the best with my machine & rods.
are you also going to print the pillow blocks or use metal ones?

>>1808896
tests a lot of things in one kinda cute model. slopes, overhangs, cutouts, arches, etc. Plus so many people know what to look for in them you can get very good feedback pretty easily vs someone's custom weird test print

[Anonymous No.1808911]

>>1808908
condom would suffice for that, but i think the point was printed stuff tends to break along layer lines

[Anonymous No.1808912]

>>1808911
I thought PETG was relatively safe from this?

[Anonymous No.1808915]

Just a reminder that my printer > your printer

[Anonymous No.1808916]

>>1808882
If you're in the EU you could try ratrig.
They sell a couple of corexy kits including their own as well as a modular enclosure type thing.
Never used them myself but I've been keeping an eye on them for a while.

[Anonymous No.1808919]

>>1808738
Buy a prusa

[Anonymous No.1808920]

>>1808912
No.

>>1808915
My build volume > your build volume

[Anonymous No.1808922]

>>1808915
uhh actually it's my printer > your printer

[Anonymous No.1808923]

>>1808738
>>1808739
If you get a Prusa it literally is just press button and wait for the print to finish.

[Anonymous No.1808924]

>>1808912
PLA is actually better for that

[Anonymous No.1808925]

>>1808923
Fuck off.

[Anonymous No.1808926]

>>1808922
Take that back

[Anonymous No.1808930]

>>1808916
>EU
No. Also would those printed parts even hold up in an enclosure? If it's printed I might as well just build a hypercube or something. It would be easier to source and I have a large aluminum plate from a custom printer that didn't work out so I do have the electronics already.

Also
>25% tax
Wtf, how does anyone in the EU afford anything

[Anonymous No.1808931]

>>1808893
Print it then cast it in some human safe silicone

https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/smooth-sil/

[Anonymous No.1808972]

>>1808511
>It stuck perfectly fine to the build tak, no need for hairspray.
>The tension was so strong, that it ripped the build tak sheet off the glued magnetic carrier
That's the point, dink. Hairspray gives good adhesion for the first layer but when you're done the shit just flies right off.

[Anonymous No.1809015]

>>1808738
if you can assembly ikea furniture and have basic troubleshooting skills, you'll be fine

[Anonymous No.1809026]

>>1808925
t. salty chinkshit buyer

[Anonymous No.1809028]

>>1808972
You don't want either to happen, separating from the build platform during print, nor the print platform separating during print

[Anonymous No.1809030]

>>1808511
>It stuck perfectly fine to the build tak
i can see it lifting off of the right corner

[Anonymous No.1809050]

how do i find time to print

everything takes so long... can't do it when im at work or sleeping cause im afraid of burning the house down

[Anonymous No.1809051]

For quiet cooling couldn't you use something like an aquarium air pump and just attach the end of the air line near the nozzle?
Lighter hotend + quieter cooling.

[Anonymous No.1809071]

Are octopi/octoprint worth the effort to set up?

[Anonymous No.1809088]

>>1809071
if you NEED to send work to the printer remotely(but from within your own network) maybe

[Anonymous No.1809105]

>>1808931
>>1808893
NTAYRT, but
>food safe
I wouldn't necessarily say those are also body safe. Dragon Skin and Ecoflex actually have skin safety certifications, I'd trust those over Smooth-Sil (only some of which are even food-safe).

https://www.smooth-on.com/products/dragon-skin-20/
https://www.smooth-on.com/products/ecoflex-00-10/

[Anonymous No.1809124]

>>1809105
Might be good to go all the way for medical grade if it's going inside your asshole
https://www.factor2.com/Medical_Grade_silicone_Elastomer_p/a-103.htm

[Anonymous No.1809128]

>>1808923
>>1808925
Anon's pretty much right though. Unless you get the MMU it's mostly smooth sailing unless you try to fuck with "unusual" materials, and even then it goes okay most of the time.

[Anonymous No.1809139]

>>1809124
>>1809124
Problem is that costs like 4x more than other stuff for probably comparable results. Most anons at that point would just go and buy something premade unless they were really dead-set on something custom and had the skills to make it.

Well, I would assume, at least, because holy shit, who has over $100 to spend on what will likely end up being a crude facsimile of a summer sausage instead of something usable?

[Anonymous No.1809163]

RC anon here, still burning through my basic bitch included spool, came up with a pretty slick tool stand with some parts trays. Also have a couple Taulman 910 parts but they aren’t very flashy looking.

[Anonymous No.1809175]

>>1809071
yes

[Anonymous No.1809199]

>>1809071
look into the available plugins and features and decide for yourself. want to easily set up remote viewing and timelapses? want to be able to exclude print bed zones in case one of a dozen smaller pieces fails? want to be able to remotely toggle your PSU (with use of a relay)?
IMO it benefits most the people who don't sit next to their machines all day. I do, and I still like it, but I also use the rPi for all the other things rPis can do.

[Anonymous No.1809201]

Can the prusa mini work with their multi-material unit? I just need a mini printer that can do abs + hips.

[Anonymous No.1809204]

Finally got my setup running decently and I was printing a figure when I had issues with the print head. Apparently the heating component and thermistor slipped off of the nozzle mid-print, and I had to pause the job just to restore it properly, and could no longer restart the job afterwards. So now I am left with a pair of feet.

[Anonymous No.1809214]

>dildos
>abs
>hips
>feet
what is this general coming to

[Anonymous No.1809215]

>>1809214
I'm pretty sure those are what this general is coming to :^)

[Anonymous No.1809219]

>>1809204
Sell them on Etsy to a foot fetishist for $5.

[Anonymous No.1809226]

>>1808759
>was this really easier than buying cheap metal supports? I think a lot of 3d print folks think that their printer is the world's hammer for all nails
What do you mean? Press a button, my object gets made. Doesn't get any simpler than that. It also had to look exactly like it does to match my other shelf supports

[Anonymous No.1809228]

>first part of new printer just entered the country from china
>not part of the frame so its useless
God bless America

[Anonymous No.1809248]

>>1809051
http://www.tridimake.com/2016/05/3d-printing-cooling-with-air-pump-aquarium.html

[Anonymous No.1809253]

>>1809219
Was looking through Etsy for feet and I found this

[Anonymous No.1809276]

Thinking about getting a CR-10Mini while it's on sale with my trump buxs is it a good buy?

[Anonymous No.1809277]

>>1809276
It's not bad by any stretch, but you're almost certainly gonna be coming back here for help.
>cr-5 1250usd
What in the flying fuck.

[Anonymous No.1809278]

>>1809277
>but you're almost certainly gonna be coming back here for help.

deal

[Anonymous No.1809373]

>>1809276
I've had the cr10 mini for 7 months and gone through maybe 8 kilos of plastic with out a single problems not related to bed leveling. Got it for like $250 shipped from banggood.

[Anonymous No.1809401]

>>1806563
>go on amazon
>search for 3d printer
>monoprice mini printers are all marked up
>search for Ender 3
>Comgrow is nowhere to be found
>chink websites are selling ender 3s for full amazon price
>mfw it's a depression but everything is more expensive
Why? Cut off shipments? Spikes in demand? China punishing the US?

[Anonymous No.1809411]

>>1809401
@home hobbies are more popular than ever and Chinese manufacturing has been down since Jan due to Corona + LNY.
Try looking up filament, PLA 1.75 is kinda hard to get right now relative to even just a month and a half ago

[Anonymous No.1809416]

New Thread >>1809415