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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1767452 No.1767452 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Old thread: >>1761966

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET

>Need help with prints? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 1-1-2020]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: lulzbot is probably dead
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users.
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.

>> No.1767454

I've had good results with Octave clear ABS. And Atomic, but that stuff is too expensive.

>> No.1767455

>Chinks chinking the copypasta, again

>> No.1767456

Hey folks, anyone playing with non-planar 3d printing? How's it going for you?

>> No.1767483

Does anyone know how to make illuminated lithophane that isn't a lamp or box? Just a single sheet/image/picture? The only guides I can find are on the software and they don't show me how I can light it up and hold all the electronics behind the lithophane.

>> No.1767488


>> No.1767513
File: 1.79 MB, 2000x1500, IMG_20200214_163738.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I wanna equip the battery cap with mechanism to open it, once installed and clicked, there is no way of opening it now.
The other section of the device will be inacessable by the user, so no magic there.


>> No.1767541

Everyone with ender3.
They are not happy about it, though.

>> No.1767542

autodesk has the patent...

>> No.1767545

Could you 3D-print a seal for a springer airgun, using a soft material like TPU? I've got a roll laying around, and a neighbor with an old Slavia (CZ) airgun with a torn up leather seal, and I don't see any reason why I couldn't at least try. What could go wrong? Any design considerations I should make?

>> No.1767546

if you dont know cad you could always use a pen to do practical fixes

>> No.1767554

does anyone wearing a wireless headset around the 3d printer while printing ??
i noticed a crackling sound when near the printer/psu ( cr10v2 ) during the print
and a massive surge when powering off ( in the moment the power gets cut off ) where my wireless headset seems to be jammed or something for 1,5-2s
i was wondering if this is just a cr thing and/or if other anons have noticed it as well (preferably with the cr psu)
usually this crackling is only when i wear the headset and look through the microwave window but this massive surge cutting off all wireless transmission to the h-set for that long made me worry a bit

>> No.1767566

I use a Bluetooth headset and do not have this issue on a duet board.
my normal headphones are planars, so I keep the printer off if I'm listening to music tho.

>> No.1767574
File: 1.02 MB, 2000x1500, IMG_20200214_231802.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Never mind. Pic related. Works flawlessly. You guys are useless.

>> No.1767595

does anyone know of a good printable cr10 extruder that works with the stock fans? the fanged ones from thingiverse are sort of shit.

>> No.1767663

As long as it only needs to hold pressure momentarily it should be fine. TPU gaskets are kind of crappy, in my experience (they leak), but if you find a way to make it work I'd love to know.

>> No.1767664

I use bluetooth headphones and notice no issues. Looks like your power supply isn't FCC compliant if it emits enough EMI to interfere with / jam your headphones. I'd stay far away from it but keep an eye on it if I were you.

>> No.1767691
File: 1.98 MB, 2184x1455, AwooBoats.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

First prints with my new Elegoo Mars pro, the small boat is < 0.2 inch or < 5 mm :^), both printed without supports, I see a couple of lines in the roof of the big boat and the cube failed, the supports were for that, idk if it was too fast too thin or need more, I used the light ones in Chitubox, printed at 0.025 layer 6 secs.

>> No.1767693

I'm sorry :(

>> No.1767702
File: 762 KB, 1619x1141, IMG_20200110_212835.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

The Mars is a lovely printer. Need to go out and buy more Isopropyl soon.

Don't put this in the next banner, is a repost.

>> No.1767709

>buy more Isopropyl
that's water washable

>> No.1767754

you're welcome

>> No.1767812

Is there any resin printer in under 500$ range that has xy-resolution of 0.025mm or better?

>> No.1767819
File: 78 KB, 263x278, 1548576356503.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>print cube
>gaps between lines in top layer
>try all manner of things to fix it
>eventually try printing the whole cube at a higher temperature
>hardly any gaps left in top layer
>print a final cube at regular settings to confirm
>ALSO no gaps in top layer
>spent multiple days printing 20-30 tests just for the problem to vanish into thin air
I'm looking at the first and the last one side by side with a damn pocket microscope, I wasn't just seeing things.
Maybe it really was just a leveling issue all along somehow and it sorted itself out partway through the testing.

>> No.1767831

Clogged nozzle maybe, higher temp cleaned it out

>> No.1767836

I swear I tried a few pulls, but it's all kind of blurred together now.
Regardless, I was also printing all my first layers at that temperature for adhesion. Could it have really needed 30 minutes solid of printing at that temperature just to clear out?

>> No.1767837

Could be, maybe you had some crap filament previously or something inside charred and was dislodged in the process. I had a batch of filament once which had something like sand particles embedded in it, clogged the nozzle something fierce on occasion - I swapped it out and it still clogged, got fixed by an atomic pull or three.

>> No.1767839

Can clogs cause inconsistent performance, or is it consistently subpar?
One other issue I noticed while experimenting with ways to close the gaps is that when I used ironing, the top surface would look great except for a few small spots that were rough or one or two lines that seemingly just failed to print. They didn't appear to correspond to a specific direction on the bed, either; the issues didn't plague any of the corners uniformly.

>> No.1767842

If I wanted to print something with a 1mm think shell and a 4mm nozzle, should I make my line width thickness 0.5mm. Its confusing as to what the printer does because by default its .8mm which corresponds to the nozzle, but the shell thickness doesnt correspond to the nozzle.

>> No.1767846

>under 500$
Elegoo Mars, Mars pro and Anycubic Photon S

>> No.1767854

Every single of those has xy resolution of 0.047mm. This is not better or equal to 0.025mm.
If there is no printer bellow 500$ that has xy resolution of 0.025mm or better, what price do I have to pay for that kind of performance?

>> No.1767856

Just out of curiosity, why do you feel you need that kind of performance out of a resin printer in the first place? Fyi you're looking for something with an actual laser in it at that resolution (Form 3 is quoting 25-30 microns on their machine).

>> No.1767872

Recommendations for pla, tpu, and petg filament in aus?

>> No.1767882

Im going to assume you arent stupid and realize each of those printers are 0.047um and not 0.047mm.
For a resolution of 0.025um youd probably need an sla printer and not msla like the photon type printers. The resolution for those are all based on a generic 2k lcd they all get from the same supplier. Something like the Form 2 so your looking at spending a grand or two.

>> No.1767888

the fuck are you talking about
0.025 is not something you can get with FDM, no matter the price

>> No.1767890

>tfw can't into reading comprehension

>> No.1767894

I am manufacturing microfluidic chips. They have channels that can be as small as 0.05mm wide or/and tall.
Im going to assume you are stupid and realize each of those printers are 0.047mm and not 0.047um.

>> No.1767907
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sorry anons, looks like vapor smothing will fog up the inside, still no direct brand recommendations on transp abs


>> No.1767922

Out of Anycubic's Eco Resin and Elegoo's water washable resin which has the least scent out of the two?

>> No.1767926
File: 2.67 MB, 4640x2610, IMG_20200215_083212.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

rate my cute chink monk from my cute chink printer

>> No.1767971
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How big is that? I just printed this nid at 0.025 and looks sharper, main body is 3.2 cm long did you use something to smooth the surface? the model is cute but you should pose the head to look up

>> No.1767975
File: 1.20 MB, 500x500, 1580097984470.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

What's the current patent situation like in 3D printing? Which printing methods can we use, and which ones are still off limits?

>> No.1767977

Don't disregard vapor smoothing too quickly.
In my experience, fog disappeared in a day or a couple of days (I don't remember how long it took. Acetone takes more time to escape from ABS than getting in. )
Although my samples weren't completely clear, and are still a bit milky, I was assuming it was due to water moister in filament and not-tuned settings. But I did not try to polish it by hand, so I cannot compare it.
Try it, and see how it goes.

As far as I know in EU you can use patented stuff for personal use with no problem.
Or are you planning a production?

>> No.1767979

>Or are you planning a production?
I would like to leave the option open.

>> No.1767981

I want to try Siraya Fast Curing Non-Brittle for minis but idk really I saw a video a week ago and the guy said that didn't smell but the minis aren't that hard.

>> No.1767983

Where did you get the STL?

>> No.1767988

The only one I know for fdm is heated enclosure one. The one that uses bellows.
Or are you looking for sla/sls?
Just out of curiosity, what are you trying to do, what is gonna be your biggest selling point? heated chamber, multi head, low price, super accuracy, portability, big size,...?

>> No.1767999

Spool child, please do not butt in while the resinmen are speaking.

>> No.1768017
File: 41 KB, 448x635, reading the oxygen thief's backstory.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1768027

>Could you 3D-print a seal for a springer airgun, using a soft material like TPU?

If you're talking out replacing an o-ring with TPU that's not likely to work. You would need a sealing geometry more similar to a skirt seal where it elastically conforms to the sealing surface.

>> No.1768030

I have absolutely no data to back this up, but what I imagine some inconsistent clogs being like is if you take a business card and put the corners between your thumb and forefinger; imagine the semicircle created is representative of half the nozzle. You can spin the card around and it will either block more or less area depending on its angle, which blocks flow.

Again, pure conjecture, but I can't think of any other reason for inconsistent clogs.

>> No.1768031

Surely if you're working with microfluidics where that kind of accuracy is needed, you/your company/your university can afford to shell out for a Form 3?

>> No.1768036

I have an idea for a high throughput centrifugal SLS machine.

>> No.1768038

anons, please understand microfluids cant be done well with a normal 3d printer, you want a multiproton pulsed laser printer

you need nano scale tech, not micro. I do hate how they call 3d printing (a type of process) a "buzzword" like their rapid prototyping solution is any different meaningfully, but their laser optics are what's been recommended in papers on 3d printing/subtracting complex microfluid stuff.

>> No.1768041

I know anon above is talking about micro- and not millifluidics but apparently at least the Form 3 has capabilities to make things like that: https://formlabs.com/blog/accelerating-millifluidic-research-with-3d-printing/

I'd imagine microfluidics is vastly smaller, though.

>> No.1768048

Go for it. Disregard patents and make it for yourself (If you have time and money).
If it works and it has benefits compared to other SLS machines, then printed parts will also have some benefits, which means you can sell them (if they are better, or cheaper, or bigger,,...). And you can provide it as a service with a handful of homemade printers.

For any kind of mass production of 3d printers, you are gonna need to redesign a machine anyway to be fit for mass production, safety standards, serviceability, costumer support.... This kind of needs a bigger investment. And this is why many kickstarter printer failed. They might had a working prototype, but design was not fit for mass production and they did not consider all the problems with mass production.

>> No.1768054

you need sub mm resolution for microfluids, labchip has many papers mentioning the Ilios Ray (2 micron) but sub mm tubes need something that can reach a really high resolution, usually by focusing down a projection. a form 3 can reach "sub mm" xy resolution but a guy with shrinky-dinks and a cnc lathe can reach a smaller resolution than them.

>> No.1768063

Yeah, fuck the rivers and fish.

>> No.1768071

if it floats in water it'll go into our food as fertilizer

>> No.1768088
File: 692 KB, 842x583, Screenshot_20200215-212946~2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Printer make & model
Anet A8
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
60°C and 190°C
>Print speed
This issue also persists when printing the part on a raft, so I'm assuming it's a material issue rather than a bed temperature issue? Maybe moisture?

>> No.1768144

Raise the extruder temp

>> No.1768147
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That's an awfully low temp. I print PLA at 220 for the first layer and 200-215 depending on color/manufacturer for subsequent layers.

Also, I'm figuring out my Anycubic Photon. First non calibration print. Does this look okay? 0.025 layer height, clear anycubic resin. And has anyone had luck with Prusa's Autosupport feature? I'd like to at least use it to generate most of my supports.

>> No.1768162

not going to be able to provide anything of value to you because all I've got is my i3 mega-s but that looks awesome! not just because i see no layer lines whatsoever but i also want to print one of those for my own keys. link to the STL please? and also, just wondering why you decided to go with the photon-s instead of the super hyped up mars or mars pro?

>> No.1768182


Went with the photon because of it's active mod community. Just seemed like there was more community support for it in general.

>> No.1768189
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oh no the thingiverse dev died
he was too young

>> No.1768196

>Prusa's Autosupport feature
For use with the Photon, you mean? Yeah, it's loads better than the default crap it comes with. Prusaslicer's autogenerated supports generally are very good, but I still manually orient my models at the least (since I know what sides I want to look *good*, and the auto-orienter only considers the best orientation to *print*). It's always worth double-checking if there's any un/undersupported areas, though, no matter what generator you use.

>> No.1768261
File: 2.95 MB, 608x1078, ender 3 dead.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.1768263

dont touch the extruder terminals

>> No.1768526

What is a good price/performance 3d printer with build volume of 300x300x300mm or larger?
I am not fan of creality type machines due to those wheels on extrusions and moving y-axis.
There is folger tech ft-5, but I cant find it in europe. And shipping from US is expensive.
Do I have any other options?

>> No.1768546

>Do I have any other options?
You could build your own.

>> No.1768551

Why would you have such a badly supported board you can flex it and kill it so easily?

>> No.1768553
File: 976 KB, 4000x3000, IMG_20200216_185506.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I printed a pen holder for the stupid gap between my desk and the window. Also Tesla.

>> No.1768558

I don't have the time at the moment.
Unless there is a complete build plan I could follow? Maybe like Hypercube.
I would still prefer something less time consuming if possible.

>> No.1768560

The Anycubic Photon has XY resolution of 47 microns and Z layer height down to 10 microns, means that it can deliver 3D printed models with amazing detail

>> No.1768561

Its possible that the extruder is too close to the bed. Try leveling it again.

>> No.1768570

>extreme stringing all of a sudden after not using the printer for a week
Guessing this is the moisture PLA issue?
Ordered vac bag and silica but guess i'll have to get an enclosure solution for the actual roll if I want it sitting out in the open like that.

>> No.1768591

guess i learned not to do that

>> No.1768614

>I am not fan of creality type machines due to those wheels on extrusions and moving y-axis.
Why? I mean there's good reasons, but you probably can't even name the - it's usually just a matter of personal preference rather than actual, honest to god practical performance benefits. For most 300^3 mm^3 printers, V-slots and wheels are fine - if they aren't, you ought to look into production methods other than FDM.

>Do I have any other options?
Buy a Chiron and some linear rails, and start bolting them on axis by axis.

>> No.1768653

I don't trust the precision of the extruded profiles. They are extruded. Not machined or ground. There is no specification of tolerances. Similar thing for plastic wheels.
Moving y axis: if it is sturdy: it is heavy, if it is light, it's not sturdy. And if it is heavy, you have problems with ghosting or you have to print slowly.
All those problems are more pronounced for bigger sizes. I was also looking at 400^3 mm and 500^3mm.
If there is nothing else, I ma gonna go with one of these, but I am looking for something else if possible.

Adding linear rails is also an option I guess

>> No.1768671

Have you ever owned a 3D-printer previously? The acceptable tolerance for most people is roughly 0.1mm on a 20mm cube, and that's pretty good considering shrinkage and filament inaccuracy. Sure, a good linear rail might be accurate up to 0.01, but who cares when your nozzle over- or underextrudes?
Moving Y-axis is in principle a bad design, I'll give you that. Makes zero sense from an engineering standpoint, it's best to go for an XY head and Z-bed. However, economy of scale still applies: might as well go with inferior kinematics if the quality is ''good enough''.
In my Chiron I have not found these problems to be more pronounced than on, say a Prusa, Anet or Ender. They are less pronounced than on an experimental Velleman (XY-bed, retarded setup for most people), I just run the thing slower than an Ultimaker (45 vs 60mm/s). To me, dialing in jerk and acceleration is more critical than maximum speed, and to compensate the lack of raw speed I just use a big nozzle and big layer heights: extrusion flow has more to do with those two than outright speed after all.

Your most economical option would be to buy a Chiron or CR-10, see if they're up to your snuff, and add chase accuracy only if necessary - and there's better ways to do so without linear guides. I'd be looking at extrusion, temperature control, and heated chambers, mainly, since shrinkage and such account for a proportional deviation that's present in every single case, rather than the absolute deviation given by wonky kinematics.

>> No.1768675
File: 1.66 MB, 4608x2592, IMG_20200216_210602_855.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

what's the best way to remove support structures? I usally try to loosen them with a thin blade, then break them off bit by bit with a screwdriver. My hand looks like i've been punching a wall and shrapnell is going everywhere.

>> No.1768687

Removing supports for PLA sucks ass, IMO. ABS is much easier to carve into and break off. Either case, I get a pair of spring-loaded needle-nose pliers and try to grab the accordion looking bits and hope they pull other parts of the support. I use an exacto knife to shave the remainder off.
>shrapnel is going everywhere
Kind of par for the course, I usually remove supports either in a cardboard box or above a wide-mouthed trash can so it all falls in there instead of on my carpet.

>> No.1768692

>not removing them in your shop
>having carpet

>> No.1768696
File: 1.12 MB, 2353x2235, frog1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Yes, I do have a printer. But I will not be printing just 20mm cubes. I will print parts, that go over whole bed.
At the moment I am printing 35h print (cca 400g of filament).
Bent bed, can be "fixed" with a glass. But bent or inaccurate extrusion? Replace it with another extrusion (which might also be bent?).
For small parts inaccuracy of alu-extrusion is not so visible, But I am afraid at 300mm (or even 400, 500mm) it will be. But I cannot test it atm, because I don't have that kind of printer yet. Also I plan to use 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height, I cannot go much rougher than than that. Printing PLA.
As I said, I am looking for different options if possible.
If not, I am gonna buy what I can get.

I use cut-resistant gloves and a chisel and safety glasses on those extremely troublesome parts. Otherwise just pliers, cutters and such. Small pieces of pla can be found all over my garage.

>> No.1768708
File: 2.28 MB, 2592x4608, IMG_20200216_230255_375.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Haven't tried ABS yet, gonna get some for testing. Depending on size, pliers sound like a great idea.

Gloves and glasses seem reasonable, i tend to slip off when pushing the screwdriver.

>> No.1768718

I have a shop with both carpet and concrete areas.

Glasses are a great idea, agreed, but I find that gloves that provide any sort of protection are very limiting for work like this.

>> No.1768741

Maybe rubber gloves with the fingertips cut off and some fingerless bumgloves on top might be sufficient, it's not like i'm stabbing my hand with a dagger, it's like punching splintered PLA when slipping off

>> No.1768757

don't unplug stepper motors when they're powered in general anon

>> No.1768760

I use "woven" cut resistant gloves. They are tight and rather thin (not like usual leather working gloves). I don't feel limited working with them, but there is an annoyance; because they are woven, it likes to catch on shards and pointy parts of plastic. But they protect my hands, so I use them all the time.
But I tend to use chisels, so right before I bought those gloves, my hands looked a bit worse then this >>1768708

>> No.1768769

Looks like you caused a short through the metal case by pushing the board down into the metal like a retard.

>> No.1768772

Im guess you broke through the anodized layer of the metal.

>> No.1768774

Which flexible filament for printing a dildo?

>> No.1768776
File: 566 KB, 622x744, Screenshot_20200216-234808~2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Raised the temp, upped the flow rate and lowered the line width to encourage overlap and it seemed to have worked, glass bed helped too. Thought I think material has absorbed moisture too, so it can't be completely mitigated

>> No.1768781

Print a dildo in whatever material, make a mold and then cast in a human safe silicone. Don't use a filament for the actual dildo because of the layers it'll feel like sandpaper in your asshole

>> No.1768782

I plan on smoothing and applying a silicone coating spray
I know molds are superior but I am lazy.

>> No.1768784

I mean, TPU will probably work, but honestly, it's probably going to be weak as shit all will fall apart with extended use, I'd really recommend making a mold which really isn't that hard nor anymore time consuming than sanding and spraying with silicone

>> No.1768796

20% infill was NOT enough for a butt plug

>> No.1768801

Perimeters will do more for you than infill

>> No.1768813

Hello, I know this is a bit off topic but could anyone please recommend me a course to learn blender?

>> No.1768815

Does t-glase bond to PLA? I want to do some multi-material prints with it but it's a bit expensive to just experiment with without knowing if it'll do what I need it to in the first place.

>> No.1768818


>> No.1768821

unironically this. people will give you shit for it but it's a crash course on learning to use blender. skip over the rendering parts if you're only interested in the modeling aspect but it's a good watch.

>> No.1768836
File: 2.36 MB, 495x525, 72d.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Im bored.
Recommend me some cool shit to print.

>> No.1768837

What are perimeters? my ender 3 arrived this morning

>> No.1768839

Perimeters are the amount of lines that form the outside shell of your part (as opposed to the filling inside). If you need something to be high strength it's generally a good idea to first increase the amount of perimeters, because all the infill in the world won't do you any good if your outside layer is 0.4mm thick and you can punch through it with a fingernail. Higher infill is more useful on large, flat parts that would otherwise flex inward, but usually anything above 15-20% is not really needed.

>> No.1768845

dragon dong strapons for animu figures

>> No.1768864

Thank you!

>> No.1768865

>Does t-glase bond to PLA?
No. It bonds so not well that you can use one as a clean-sep support material for the other.

>> No.1768870

Ah, damn. I just launched a test print with the small bit I have to check before I saw your post.

Oh well, guess I'll go through with it and see how it looks firsthand, plus check with ABS as well.

>> No.1768892

where can i order a print of a small 2" x 2" part in abs? i dont have a printer. USA please

>> No.1768896

If you don't need specifically ABS, Shapeways is your best bet. If you really want it out of ABS, I... actually have no idea. 3DHubs used to be the place to go but now they do business-to-business.

Check out your local library or university and see if they have a public-access printer.

>> No.1768949

>because all the infill in the world won't do you any good if your outside layer is 0.4mm
What if I infill to 100%?

>> No.1768951
File: 20 KB, 500x313, 555 come on now.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Surely you can figure that one out.

>> No.1768959
File: 205 KB, 960x720, 15819231135076913185669618984642.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

/toy/ here.
Is it recommended to make pieces such as mushroom pegs (pic related) through 3d printing or should I only use 3d printed parts as prototypes for them?
I'm about to start designing new parts to make collapsible arms for a custom transformer.

>> No.1768966

You can try, but with an FDM printer the strength (and shape) of the joint will depend on the orientation of the print. SLA will fare better in the uniformity of the resulting form but is more prone to shattering (most of the UV cure resins on the market these days are just more brittle by nature).

>> No.1768967

Okay, correction, since what I wrote is kind of a non-answer: SLA would probably be your best bet, I personally wouldn't use FDM for something that complex that has to move.

>> No.1768998

I remove them with pliers. The "line" support type, which just makes tall, loosely-connected 1-layer-thick walls is good for this.
Each wall only has a single line of contact with the print, so if you just grab it with a pair of pliers and pull, it tends to break off of the print cleanly, without leaving any remnants behind. You can even grab big chunks of support at once, assuming they're not attached to delicate parts of the print.

>> No.1768999

How to change perimeter setting? is that something I can do in Cura?

>> No.1769001

Did you actually manage to crush it with just your ass muscles?

>> No.1769011
File: 208 KB, 1528x685, ABS vs PLA.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm having a bit of trouble with making detailed prints with ABS. Purple is ABS, orange is PLA, both are 0.1mm layer height, cooling fan was off for ABS. Why does the purple one look like crap? I went slow and made sure there were no drafts in the room and that it was reasonably warm, so there was no warping or peeling from the print bed, but it looks like it's just half-melted already. From this angle it's kind of hard to see anywhere except the very left part, but the whole print shrank in the middle and kind of looks like a " ) ( " shape when viewed from the side. What's the deal, what am I doing wrong?

>> No.1769012

Heated enclosure? If not, do that.

>> No.1769021
File: 2.33 MB, 4640x2610, IMG_20200217_043007.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Become the Warrior of Resin

>> No.1769025

Might be printing to hot.
Also despite popular belief ABS does profit from some cooling. The old way of avoiding warping is to disable cooling for the first 3-10 layers

>> No.1769026

Will try; I took it out of my enclosure for this, hoped it wouldn't affect such a small part, guess I was wrong

>too hot
I've already dropped to 235C (down from the for-some-reason-recommended 255C), I don't think I could go much colder without extrusion problems. I'll see if a little bit of cooling helps.

>> No.1769027

When I print a model sliced in Cura, it first prints a line on the side of the plate to prime the extruder, which is nice.
However, I can't seem to find exactly where in Cura this line is created/modified. I checked my printer settings, and it doesn't look like the starting Gcode there is responsible for it, based on the code comments.
If I was concerned about a print intersecting the priming line, how would I move/remove it?

>> No.1769042

go as low in temp as you can before you get issues with layer to layer adhesion. I print ABS at 215°C. However my thermistor might be a little off on the reading as my PLA temperature is quite low aswell at 185°C

>> No.1769061

Hey, fellows. Anyone had problems with Flashforge PLA filament? My Ender 3 was printing just fine until I changed the filament for a whit PLA from Flashforge. The bed is leveled, nozzle and bed temp are the same as with other PLA (200 nozzle, 60 bed), speed is as usual, but the filament fails to adhere to the bed at some point every single time I try to print. It starts fine, it sticks, but on the first layer, it just gets stuck to the nozzle and becomes a mess.
Any ideas on how to deal with this? Is the filament just shit?

>> No.1769076


>I will print parts, that go over whole bed.
In which case a 0.1mm absolute error will go from a 0.5% error on a 20mm cube, to a 0.0333% error on a 300mm object.

>I plan to use 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height, I cannot go much rougher than than that. Printing PLA.
V-slots will be accurate enough then. Consider that with those dimensions, filling up a 300mm build volume takes ages, nevermind 400 or 500mm.

Remember, the thinnest part has the highest stress concentration, so you want that part to be solid. If it's 20mm, make sure you wall lines are set to 10mm.

Then said infill will not be conforming to the outsde of the part, therefore reducing it's strength. Don't do that.

>> No.1769083
File: 378 KB, 960x720, CIMG1649.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

/toy/ here. Does anyone have a file for an articulated blank figure like in pic related?

>> No.1769108

I mostly print functional parts in ABS, but enclosed chamber and part cooling fan on a low level after the first few layers really does change a lot when it comes to quality. Probaly would recommend to go higher with the nozzle tenperature though when you are do it.

Depending on your printer and motor current you may have to cool the motors additionally in an enclosure.

>> No.1769123

Wait. Didn't you say SLA would shatter?
I need the parts to be quite sturdy since getting them into the slot involves pushing them with some force.

>> No.1769128

Anons, I'm very new to printing. Will a dentist lamp of 420 - 480 nm wave-length be able to cure 405 nm solidification Elegoo resin?

>> No.1769135

Do a search on Thingiverse. There is few action figures with articulated limbs and even fingers.

>> No.1769141

I work alone. Chips are for hobby projects like analysis of nutrient content of aquarium water and manufacturing of acids for inorganic chemistry experiments.

>> No.1769147

Where do you dump the alcohol then? I don't have a resin printer, just asking

>> No.1769153

Where did you get those models? They look very crispy.

>> No.1769224

You leave the tub of ipa outside and let the resin cure. You can pour out then or let the ipa evaporate. Reuse the same tub.

>> No.1769242
File: 2.46 MB, 4640x2610, IMG_20200217_143802.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Smash them together in blender from FFXIV

>> No.1769265

There is one on thingiverse

>> No.1769268

For my action figures which use pegs I print it out everything on an SLA printer and then made molds of each piece using silicone and then I casted my pieces with task 4 resin by Smooth On

>> No.1769269

Is the ender 5 any good?

>> No.1769306

You could use a printer but you need to consider that the print will have 'cleavage points' (if that's the right word) between each layer. So the orientation of the part is important. For that I would cut the 3d model in half across the circular face so that there are no cleavage points on that cylinder part. Otherwise it will likely break very easily.

Of course if you have the money and patience, then making a mold and using resin would be much better.

>> No.1769324

if you are getting started buy a cheap printer
you probably will invest more money later on if you like the hobby
since the nature of your question dictates that you are not buying the printer for engineering purposes i would suggest to save the 100 bucks and buy the ender 3
of course only if you dont need any specific features from the e5
also bear in mind that the devil hides in the detail for example 125° bed temp is most likely due to no glass plate if you look at the 110° that creality lists for the printers that come with a glass plate
should take everything with a grain of salt
and keep "reading" yourself more into the topic
i guess you are not particularuily doing anything wrong with buying the e5 but you definitely have to double check with your ambitions / requirements from your projects
it may be a better investment on the long term to buy a cr10 for example and to upgrade it
leaving the printer in its stock configuration will mos tlikely block you from achieving highe precision or more sophisticated materials / applications

>> No.1769329

>ender 3
so is this still the go to printer?
i really dislike the V rail x carriage on mine, getting the excenter nut correct is next to impossible. Either too tight or the carriage has vertical play on the nozzle

>> No.1769344
File: 120 KB, 940x705, mulder.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Considering price, value, community support...
But it somehow bothers me that this might be hindering progression.

>> No.1769348
File: 2.32 MB, 4640x2610, IMG_20200217_175958.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>FDMcucks will never have this quality

>> No.1769437

FDM people don't care about your weeb shit. FDM is for rapid prototyping and has matured to make actual practical parts. Quit posting your babby's first print.

>> No.1769447
File: 65 KB, 300x207, 1572545619580.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

you're just jealous

>> No.1769457

Well, its failure mode is shattering, unlike FDM plastic which generally plastically deform before "tearing". You'd have to look up the strength of the materials individually, though, since it varies quite a bit. I do know there are some special high-strength blends. I recommended SLA because of the high accuracy it provides.

>> No.1769461
File: 396 KB, 800x450, Low expectations.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Alright, I've kept my mouth shut this long but it's become intolerable: We get it, you got a resin printer and have acquired the AMAZING skill of pushing some buttons to download somebody else's models or rip them from a game. Fantastic. When are you actually going to PAINT them? You keep shitposting here and in /tg/ with things you probably think are witty and cool but it's just showing how much of a retard you are that you STILL haven't bothered to pick up a brush months later and paint the damn things. The fact you have a resin printer might have been cool, MIGHT have been, a year ago when they first started becoming cheaper, but now it's pretty much an everyday item and you're not impressing anybody with it.

Fuck off, stop shitposting, and pick up a fucking brush already.

The one thing you have going for you is that you apparently finally have enough brainpower to realize that maybe you shouldn't print all your models on their back because they'd be shit quality, like everybody told you for WEEKS before you got the hint.

Fucking this. Even SLA people don't care about your weeb shit at this point. There's nothing to be jealous about with the kind of things that are posted.

>> No.1769472
File: 156 KB, 892x1024, 1575312281792.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Well put

>> No.1769496

Your photograph and support removal skills suck dick, bro. Good SLA prints shouldn't have that much crust on them.

>> No.1769510
File: 2.62 MB, 4640x2610, IMG_20200217_042937.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Make me, 40k neckbeard lol

>> No.1769512

>"pick up A BRUSH AND PAINT"
okay games workshop shill, maybe I can paint them like your overpriced pieces of plastic shaped like StarCraft marines

>> No.1769516

Ahem. Fuck Figurine Faggots

>> No.1769518


>> No.1769519

eeh /tg/ is the hill you two are going to die on?
this guy's figures cant hold paint, I doubt he can sand them let alone even do a thin primer coat
as a person who's actually used the mega archive for painting for "anime figures"(I have as many painted tanks as figures) the paint is too expensive but the methods are essential.
fuck his spam, sla BS, and shitty resin
Printing just blank figures is dumb, just like the utility of a msla printer.
what a fucking retard you are

>> No.1769520

40kman just autisming because someone is posting plastic figurines of things that aren't spesh mareens. it's a well known fact that neckbeards dislike anime near their western ttrpgs

>> No.1769521

>figures cant hold paint
Unless you mean that specific resin flat-out doesn't form a bond with paint, yes, you can paint SLA printed parts without too much trouble. You can sand and prime them too.
It's not about the anime aspect of it at all, I couldn't care less about what exactly he prints, it's more the way he flaunts it like it's something special
>paint is too expensive
Tried Vallejo? I've had good results, they're a bit cheaper and go a bit farther as well.

>> No.1769527

>it's more the way he flaunts it like it's something special
I know you can paint most sla prints after a good ipa scrubbing before curing but the shine off those models and tower artifacts are going to be a pain in the ass on the kind of models he's printing; cutting up for underside cleanup is needed for painting, and he skipped that step.
I've looked into their inks, I want to move to a CMYK ink/paint drop system to avoid having to spend more money on paint (it works if you only need 5 colors and a medium for a set of figures, but when you have a whole variety you want with flesh tones and not the same 5 colors, I'd rather not spend 40$ per figure on paint alone.)

>> No.1769564

Not the magic smoke!

>> No.1769570

You do know that there is an entire hobby industry revolving around painting resin anime figures, you forehead.

>> No.1769611

How the hell do I get the PLA model off the heated mat of my ender 3? its completely stuck.

>> No.1769620

Sharpened plastic scraper.
Try it cold bed, then try it hot bed. Then try it cold bed. The act of heating & cooling will make the PLA expand and contract and that helps get the model off the bed.

If you have persistent bed adhesion problems or simply don't want to mess with it - blue painter's tape is your friend.

>> No.1769766
File: 305 KB, 1254x532, 1564184493510.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How would I go about printing something this small while retaining as much quality as possible?
I've never really printed anything this small before.
I gave it a shot earlier and it came out as a pretty sloppy chunk, with no hole at all.

Using Ender-3 with no major mods.

>> No.1769767

Really really slow and you're going to need a smaller nozzle opening

>> No.1769780

What's the difference between the Ender 3 and the Ender 3 Pro?

>> No.1769789

I have had success printing multiple small things just to keep the nozzle away from the main part as long as possible. I currently have an army of about 50 8mm tall benchies I have used for this task.

>> No.1769792

fire or no fire

>> No.1769797
File: 163 KB, 1366x768, Screenshot from 2020-02-18 22-51-04.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

What slicing settings do you recommend for this print, guys? This is the midde section of a seven-segment display. The thickness of all the walls and foundation is 4mm (should I make it more? less?). The holes are where E10 lamp holders will go, 11mm each.
I don't care how much material it will take, I only want less time to build it (can't sleep while it's on unless haven't slept all previous night or on xanax) and to be reliable (not to collapse onto itsef or something).

>> No.1769808

>4mm shell thickness with 100% infill
>1.2mm layer height
1mm is plenty for wall thickness, your nozzle is 0.4, so go for 1.2mm shell thickness. 100% infill? Reduce that to 40-50% for a stiff part, or 20-25 for visual parts. Any increase in strength can be had with an increase in shell thickness - 4mm is overkill!
Set your layer height to 0.2mm, that's what's going to save you the most print time.
'"Super Quality'' implies a stock profile with a very low speed, probably 20-30mm/s. 40-45mm/s speed is the sweet spot for most untuned Ender 3's I've seen.
Go into advanced settings, that allows much more tuning - that way you can at least show us all your settings, instead of the EZ-mode setup. At least there you can adjust your printing speed.

>> No.1769819

Can I get some elaboration?

>> No.1769825

Quality Meanwell brand power supply, probably actual branded XT connectors and not knockoffs, hopefully full solder and not crimp and pray

>> No.1769831

I pulled the trigger on the anycubic photon during the lightning deal and I thought I did all my research, but I see theres the phrozen sonic mini which looks like the best budget printer available right now.
The photon was 220 and the phrozen is supposed to be faster and last longer at just 200.

>> No.1769869

I trust good crimps and my own wire more than Chinese solder for those screw-in connectors, but this

>> No.1769888

Anything past 50% infill is a waste of time and filament and does not contribute to part strength
Strength ultimately comes from layer thickness

and if the sound is keeping you up, move it out of your fucking bedroom or build an enclosure for it
sound proofing isn't hard

>> No.1769893

>Anything past 50% infill is a waste of time and filament and does not contribute to part strength
unless it's flex, then there's room for even 100% infill..... depending.

>> No.1769946

>Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
I can't find any under $220, is there something I'm missing?

>> No.1769960

It's $199 at Woot every few weeks.

>> No.1770020

Thanks, I didn't even know this existed

>> No.1770025

I hate asking to be spoonfed, but can I get a link? I don't know how the search function separates tags and I haven't found much under articulated human. I found a few bionicle files that look pretty useful though.

>> No.1770042

On second thought, nvm.

>> No.1770047
File: 6 KB, 235x153, 1567802263898.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1770048


>> No.1770054

I'm not the guy who you replied to, but I couldn't just ignore the irony of your post.

>> No.1770058
File: 3.49 MB, 5312x2988, 20200218_231445.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>finally find ironing settings that yield a completely smooth surface without imperfections
>test prints look good
>try it on an actual print
>90% of print's face looks as good as expected
>one section is rough as hell, microscope shows multiple gaping holes in it
What gives? It's not even a specific side/edge, the parts of the face both at the beginning and end of those lines look fine. It's just the middle of them that got fucked up somehow. The 100x100x0.8 square I printed as a test before it came out fine, and it covered the same area of the bed that the messed up part of this print was in.

>> No.1770066

Deflection of air from the cooling fan causing the hotend to lose heat at the tip more rapidly

>> No.1770067

But why only in that one spot? It's not even present on the other half of the surface, and the print is symmetrical, so I don't see how it could be due to the shape of the print.

>> No.1770068

I dont know the flow your specific fan setup; but a fanless top layer or an iorning would prevent this issue

>> No.1770076

How would I do that? I don't see any settings in Cura for fan speed specific to ironing or a top layer.

>> No.1770093

>Strength ultimately comes from layer thickness
Strength comes from a combination of factors, ut when you're looking at adding strength adding material, shell thickness is the most significant factor.

>> No.1770095

Let's say I don't want to spend $2.5 on a 3d model from MyMiniFactory.
Are there unscrupulous vagabonds that take from the rich modelers and give to the poor printers on the high data seas?

>> No.1770102

Anyone tried 3d printing an ar15 mag on a ender3? If so how did that go?

>> No.1770136


>> No.1770162

How do i print a girlfriend

>> No.1770165
File: 2.84 MB, 404x718, intergalactic gears.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.1770167

Why aren't they happy?
I haven't tested it yet.
People who have modded big chunky coolers on hotends are going to have all sorts of problems.

>> No.1770170

You can always just reach in and peel it off quickly as soon as it finishes laying down the prime line before it goes over that area with the first real layer.

>> No.1770189

reminder anons:
update your firmware; dont use cheap hardware tricks (especially while your drives are holding current) and prevent total printer meltdowns.

>> No.1770273
File: 327 KB, 323x454, 8wrpK5j.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1770331

Which is what I've been doing, but having to babysit it even for something simple like a leveling test is a hassle.

>> No.1770340

You know liquids that evaporate goes back to "the rivers and fish" right? it doesn't slingshot out of the atmosphere and into the sun

>> No.1770349

actually alcohol contributes to ground level ozone and thats pretty much it. its half life in open air is only a few hours and the EPA regulates it like ethanol in our gas.
with a BCF of 3, even if you were dumping your IPA waste in a lake (with sun, I'm not encouraging you to pour this down the drain) it wouldnt accumulate in the fish and kill eagle chicks.
the resin is bad though.

>> No.1770350

Fair enough. I think either way, if you take water washable resin and let the residue cure out before getting rid of it, it should lead to the same result as IPA, without having another consumable.

>> No.1770351

You didnt read properly. The resin cures so its separated from the alcohol. Read before trying to sound smart.

>> No.1770352

You do the same with the contaminated water you use for water-washable resin.

>> No.1770380

can an anon running Simplify3d give me the SHA256 hash of the 4.1.2 installer
thanks in advance

>> No.1770422

Brim that shit.
Low speed.
Low layer height, 0.08mm or even 0.04mm if your printer can do it.
If your Ender 3 has an uneven bed like almost all of them find the nicest spot and print from there.
Sometimes lower temperatures will hold shape better but consider that a later resort if other things don't work.
I'd also change the support to use thinner ribs that up and touch the part if there's problems between the support and the part - if not disregard this.

>> No.1770459

Try forcing the cooling fan to be on all the time

>> No.1770495


anyone know what bearings I should use to replace the ones that came with my anet? I took the z-axis guide rods all the way out to check if they were straight and some of the balls came out.

also, the guide rods should line up with their sockets on the frame, right? I think my frame is skewed/not square and that's why my left stepper motor is clicking and fucking up my prints. the guide rod on the left side slots right in, but the right one won't unless I push it slightly to the side

>> No.1770506

Based on my Cura settings, it looks as though the fan is at 100% for every layer past 4, and the surface is at layer 25. The fan gradually increases to 100% from layers 1-4.
Would turning the initial fan speed to 100% so that it's running during the first few layers really make such a difference so much later in the print? Or is there some setting I'm not seeing that causes the fan to be off during certain later parts of the print?

>> No.1770576
File: 4 KB, 334x102, 1570817741263.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

the problem is too much cooling on the top layers
you should learn to script in features for cura, there is a reason why prusaslicer kept the ability to run a gcode post processing script, if cura showed "type" as ironing layer you could prevent the ramping up and down of skin fan speed.
set another one on inner/outer walls for 100% to keep them on where fans are needed. dont keep this on for smaller prints, most cooling solutions don't need this script but some do due to weird things at full fan speed.
slic3r's scripting is nice if you want to compare the fan off/on for top layers.

>> No.1770700

got Ender 3 (not pro) for 161 euro on aliexpress

>> No.1770710

Itty bitty doggies!
Itty bitty boats!

>> No.1770760

So I made the thing.
Now I have a different problem.
The light leaks into neighboring cells.
Is it because my PLA is white? Had a different color PLA been better?
Could I solve it by spraying it with white paint?

>> No.1770905

>Is it because my PLA is white?
Yes, a shitty white using the minimum amount of pigment.
>Could I solve it by spraying it with white paint?

Print in an opaque black, and then spray several coats of white.

>> No.1770918

I tried messing around with my wall thickness and wall line count in cura and I think its causing my builds to fail.
Is there a certain rule here? should it be a multiple of my nozzle size?

>> No.1770943

wall thickness is a multiple of your nozzle diameter
line count is how many lines it takes to get to that thickness
0.4 * 3 = 1.2mm walls

>> No.1770947

what can cause the sides of my print to warp? suddenly every build I try fails, ive leveled the bed countless times, no clue what else to try
should I just not print things that use more than a little space on the build pad? ive only built small things with small surface areas touching the pad, could that be this issue

>> No.1770960

too rapid cooling
cold wind

>> No.1770981

The bigger something is, the more it will contract when it cools. This contraction can cause the edges of a print to pull up off the bed.
Have you tried printing with a brim?

>> No.1770991

is it possible to buy a genuinely flat bed that will stay leveled for an ender-3?

>> No.1770998

use a mirror/piece of glass.

>> No.1771003


>> No.1771038
File: 538 KB, 2486x756, Resin Curing Chamber.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Posting some work I've been doing for my new photon.

Built a couple iterations for a UV curing box. Used a solar powered rotating display and some window screen material. Lined with aluminum tape Not a new idea but here's my execution.

>> No.1771063

When I had the og ender 3 hotend it had filament build up right in between the ptfe tupe and nozzle. The pressure would build up over time to the time when the extruder gear slipped and it underextruded a line in the print. It was pretty inconsistent and required a lot of time to figure it out.

>> No.1771068

>when the extruder gear slipped and it underextruded
I'd hear that though, wouldn't I? The extruder makes a very audible thump when it skips.
Additionally, it only happened when ironing at the default ironing settings. I'm otherwise not missing lines at all.

>> No.1771069
File: 18 KB, 500x394, 1573135136245.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Imagine throwing a fly or some other insect into that and crushing it. So satisfying

>> No.1771071

In my case it didn't make any sound. I marked a spot on the idler and extruded 20mm at F100ish speed (like you are supposed to do when calibrating your extruder steps). If the idler on the extruder stops moving during the test youll either have a clog in your nozzle or not enough tightness on the extruder gears. Thats how I found out

>> No.1771077
File: 475 KB, 603x593, 1556594842227.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Using cr10 v2, having some stringing issues (I believe you can call this stringing, but it's more like very fine hair that situated randomly around. Is there another name for this?). Settings are [email protected], with retraction being [email protected]/s. Don't really wanna drop temps much lower, and wasn't sure how to change retraction settings to improve it.

>> No.1771095
File: 3.74 MB, 1908x2018, 20200221_135104.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

woop woop

>> No.1771117

Enjoy the multi-axis backlash

>> No.1771118
File: 44 KB, 550x550, Funsunjet-A3-UV-Mobile-Covers-Printing-Machine.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Polyjet will kill FDM by 2022, mark my words

>> No.1771135

so where is the open source polyjet printer to get it started?

>> No.1771147

Sorry if this has been asked before, but I got an Ender 3 for Christmas and my filament roll keeps getting tangled and I have to keep pulling on it to prevent it from getting jammed. I found a detangler that I can print here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3579352 but I was wondering if there is anything I can print that won't require extra nuts and bolts to put together. I just want something simple to attach that will prevent tangling

>> No.1771148

get a teflon tube, thats all you really need to prevent tangling other than a better filament roll holder.

>> No.1771155

cant wait desu senpai

>> No.1771180


Arent there a whole bunch of Stratasys patents keeping polyjets from reaching the mainstream?

>> No.1771183

>Polyjet will kill FDM by 2022
No. The material properties of the affordable polyjet materials are as bad or worse than SLA printers. The few that reach or exceed FDM print materials are still quite expensive per unit of volume. The likelihood of the related patents opening up any time soon is also pretty low.

>> No.1771198

>so where is the open source polyjet printer to get it started?
It's just controlling an inkjet head + a z axis.



Why would you care about patents owned by an israeli company? Why would the chinese care about it? The chinese are your friend, not israelis. Tell me: what was the latest piece of hardware you bought from israel? Fuck stratashill.

>> No.1771224

that video you posted is not a polyjet

>> No.1771225

Rub your two neurons together

>> No.1771242
File: 133 KB, 2048x1065, yodahead.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Another Baby Yoda Head. With an amusingly timed necessary filament swap. Little Sharpie to the lip maybe?

>> No.1771257
File: 2.77 MB, 640x360, 1579486309727.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1771273

What are some fun things to make with transparent polysmooth filament?


I mostly just print DnD minis, but I'm open to other ideas too

>> No.1771280
File: 90 KB, 903x541, resin1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm giving resin printing a first try. My body is ready.

>> No.1771282

it looks cool...

>> No.1771288

It seems you were right, at least mostly. The scripting stuff you mentioned is gibberish to me right now, but I manually disabled the fan when it got to that layer, and the big rough area never showed up.
However, there is a smaller rough area that I now notice due to it being the only remaining imperfection. It was present on the previous full print as well.
While this imperfection is pretty close to an edge, I'm not certain that it's a leveling issue because the test print that I did before this one to test the fan theory, which was the same print sliced down to just the top handful of layers to save time, did not have the smaller rough patch. It was perfectly smooth.

If the cooling fan could cause such a problem, is it possible that a draft could as well? The only other uncontrolled factor is that I realized I had the ceiling fan running while printing.

>> No.1771302
File: 3.76 MB, 2480x3040, Untitled-2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

hi all
'was searching for this for a while
but couldn't find it...
so i took the thing apart and made this diagram for the Creality 2.5.2 Mainboard out of a CR-10 V2 manufacture date was december 2019.
i thought it could be handy for others so i share this here
Y+ (Y-Limiter), H2 (Hotend 2 Thermistor) and K-FAN2 (2nd Nozzle FAN), E2 (2nd Extruder Servo) as well as the one 6-Pin Connector were empty i labeled D11 as filament detector but this is only a guess on the function.

i hope this can be of help for someone
take care and have a nice day

>> No.1771392

Possibly, a bad draft usually reveals itself with the heated bed not getting up.

>> No.1771396
File: 106 KB, 612x491, 1542213932452.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Why don't we have metal printers that work the same as FDM plastic printers but just with higher temperatures?

>> No.1771397

that's just your machine being shit, nothing you can do about it
also you should definitely bump up your temps to at least 210C
PLA is at it's strongest when printed at 235C

>> No.1771400
File: 82 KB, 520x700, Fuck you, frog.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Because the physics of metals and plastic melting are different.

>> No.1771401

Up to temperature, you mean? I haven't noticed any issues with the bed temperature on the display. But then, the nozzle temperature was also displaying as fine, despite the cooling fan evidently messing with it based on the print itself, so I don't know.

>> No.1771402

really? they both stick together when molten though don't they?

>> No.1771403

Due to how well metal conducts heat, I'm not sure you'd be able to melt the end of a strand of metal filament without the transferred heat fucking with the filament's integrity farther up.

>> No.1771406

There's a reason why welding often requires shielding gases or special environments to be done properly.

You can, that's the principle of MIG welding / GMAW, sort of.

>> No.1771409

yeh, I mean monitoring-wise if there's a draft its easy to see when its starting up(a few min instead of only a few sec to heat up)
those issues with top surfaces coming out badly without a fan could also be affected by the nozzle; do you squish the filament? (printing larger than nozzle diameter)
you could try a few widened cubes with different printing diameters
how old is your nozzle? if you only print pla/petg without any extra stuff like carbon fiber It should last for a few years.


>> No.1771410

So just fill up your enclosure with such gas, simple stuff
If it really is as simple as strapping a welder onto some kinematics then why aren't we already doing it? why isn't some chink selling an ender 3 with the hotend replaced by a welder for $300 on aliexpress? why do metal printers cost at the very least tens of thousands of dollars? i don't get it.

>> No.1771411

When I printed the included files/use the creality slicer the stringing is no where near as bad, so that's why I came looking for any tips.

>> No.1771412

I mean you can take a mig and stick it on a gantry and call it a 3d metal printer, but you're going to be very disappointed because the accuracy and definition is crap with weld wire.

Better off waiting until they get laser sintered printers into an affordable state.

>> No.1771417

Because mig welders aren't 3d printing pens, if you have the money for the then get one of these
you may notice how fucking massive the mig welder is

>> No.1771432

heh, was about to post this

>> No.1771494

>if there's a draft [...] a few min instead of only a few sec to heat up
>a few sec
Is it really supposed to heat that quickly? My Ender 3's bed takes 2.5 minutes to go from ~24C to 60C.
>do you squish the filament?
No, I'm printing at the nozzle diameter.
Additionally, my top surfaces in general are fine. Even using these ironing settings, the three test prints I've done of various sizes so far have all had impeccable surfaces. Turning the cooling fan off fixed the large imperfection, so now all I'm left with is one medium-size rough patch on the surface of this specific part, whose surface is otherwise perfectly smooth thanks to the ironing.
>how old is your nozzle?
The whole printer is only a couple of months old. I've only printed PLA/PLA+ so far.

>> No.1771504

>2.5min on Al bed
thats fine, mains systems heat up too fast.
ironing IS squishing a very low amount of filament, you could try .42 instead of .4.
yeh your nozzle shouldn't be a problem then

>> No.1771505
File: 793 KB, 2858x1893, 1579581859773.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Ok, here's my report on my stringing adventure.
1 is cura 185 [email protected] (temp retract [email protected] speed). Probably the second worst overall, very fine hair stringing.
2 is cura 210 - [email protected] This is the worst, with some oozing towards the top.
3 is cura 185 - [email protected] Dropping temps fixed the oozing, but stringing is still bad.
4 is creality slicer stock settings. 0 stringing until halfway up. At this point I find a video by makers muse, using a stringing test that's larger and has 0 stringing.
5 is that stringing test with creality slicer, 0 stringing, a perfect print.
6 is 185 [email protected] I notice retract speed is 80 in creality slicer, so I try that. Helps a reasonable bit, but still no dice.
7 is the magic setting, retracting at layer change too. 200 [email protected] Stringing fixed using cura.
Only thing now is the flat surface of 7 is much rougher than 5, and has some white lines. Anyone have any idea?

>> No.1771506
File: 547 KB, 6000x4000, 1572023380360.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

forgot pic

>> No.1771508

>you could try .42 instead of .4.
I don't see any settings to change line width for just ironing, would I have to change it for the whole print? How would that affect the print's overall appearance?
I could do a surface skin with the different line width, but I'm not sure whether it'd apply to the ironing as well in that case.

>> No.1771511
File: 15 KB, 430x300, 1560538287087.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

no for normal lines, the flow is controlled and it should not affect quality at such a minor setting

>> No.1771512
File: 126 KB, 1756x1740, tool idea.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Oh fug I should have asked here instead of making a thread.
Do any of you mind helping me put through CAD my idea?

>> No.1771525
File: 2.64 MB, 4640x2610, IMG_20200222_020556.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

back and better than ever with a printed chocobo

>> No.1771527

What is the most reliable brand of PLA for the ender 3?
I have a feeling the cheap no-brand filament is behind my failed prints since the bed is definitely level

>> No.1771530

what are your failures like

>> No.1771533

sometimes fails to adhere to the bed despite the bed being level
sometimes bends and warps despite there not being a draft or cold air around
overall feels far more brittle than other prints ive handled, it was the cheapest filament i could find after all

>> No.1771535
File: 22 KB, 474x355, 2342.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

we do, but currently they're only 3d pens

>> No.1771540

This is /diy/: do it yourself. You'll be happy you might have learned a basic skill along the way.

>> No.1771541

Where do I even start man?

>> No.1771544

Consider getting Fusion 360, it's free and beginner-friendly(ish) with a lot of tutorials and learning content

>> No.1771545

Thanks ill look it up

>> No.1771546

>inb4 /g/tards complaining it isn't ''free'', and should have an obnoxiously useless UI that precludes newbies like this from ever getting started with CAD

>> No.1771547

yeah just use openscad bro

>> No.1771563

>sometimes fails to adhere to the bed despite the bed being level
Make sure your bed is clean as well as being level. Higher bed/nozzle temps can help with first layer adhesion. I'm using some black filament right now that is fussy about sticking when the first line goes down on the bed, so I do the first layer at 220C/70C.
>it was the cheapest filament i could find after all
How cheap? Even the cheapest ones I've seen on Amazon were only like $4-5/kg cheaper than the name brands like Hatchbox.

>> No.1771568

>Make sure your bed is clean as well as being level.
A microfiber cloth and isopropyl is enough right?

>> No.1771569

>A microfiber cloth and isopropyl is enough right?
I used to think so as well, but it turns out that nothing beats good old dish soap, water, and sponge for cleaning glass.
I still use isopropyl occasionally to get stray bits and whisps and such off, but if I need the bed truly clean I wash it with soap.
Although, I realize you haven't mentioned what sort of bed you have.
I'm not sure if the default Ender bed agrees with soap. I assume it would, but I don't know.

>> No.1771573

Can I swap the ender3 Z motor and the extruder one? I'm direct drive and the Z motor looks smaller, so it could take out some weight
Do I need to edit the firmware?

>> No.1771576

Well, I tried another print with my ceiling fan off as well as turning the cooling fan off for the ironing layer, and not only is the small rough patch still there, the big one has also returned in exactly the same spot it was originally. Although it's not nearly as coarse as it was before, could the fact that it's now back after the previous print was completely smooth in that area, mean that the smoothness was just a fluke and the cooling fan was in fact not the issue at all? Literally the only difference between the last print and this print was me turning my ceiling fan off.

I'll try the different line width next, but if the line width was the problem, wouldn't I see such defects on the top surfaces of all my ironed prints? I don't get why it'd be only this print, and in this area. I'd think warped bed if my bed wasn't glass.

Is it possible that my top layers aren't laying correctly across the infill and are creating a slightly uneven top surface? I've already got 4 top layers, but the lack of an infill is the only physical difference, besides height, between this print and the cut down test print I did of just its surface, which came out great.

>> No.1771588
File: 51 KB, 1079x843, Capture.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Whats the safest way to go about printing an object like this? its two spheres connected by a curved pipe
Should I stand it up on one ball or have it laid flat?

>> No.1771591

Slice in half lengthwise, print laying flat.

Assuming you're going to stick it up your ass: don't, it's way too thin and layer orientation is wrong for the kind of load it'll receive.

>> No.1771594

>Assuming you're going to stick it up your ass: don't, it's way too thin and layer orientation is wrong for the kind of load it'll receive.
Of course I wouldnt
>Slice in half lengthwise, print laying flat.
I think my bed is too warped to even print to more than a small surface area at a time, thats a shame

>> No.1771599

Use rafts if it's that bad and you can't fix it.

>> No.1771602

if the bed isnt level wont the raft be unlevel too unless the machine somehow knows exactly how warped it is?

>> No.1771620

at what point does more infill stop helping? for example im sure the difference between 20 to 40% infill helps a bit but does going from 80 to 100% really do much to merit it?

>> No.1771637

>surface of 7 is much rougher than 5, and has some white lines
that's overextrusion

>> No.1771638

mig welder head is tiny, weighs less than half a kilo, could easily replace an ordinary hotend

>> No.1771639

dude the layer orientation is just perfect for that what are you talking about?

>> No.1771641

Is that so? Interesting. I'm not noticing it in the walls, just the surface. I'm doing a larger print rn and I'll see how it goes. I now remember seeing it before when printing flat surfaces, but it wasn't on that top layer, so it got covered by another layer that seemed normal. Thank you for your insight.

>> No.1771645

It is pretty common on completely solid structure like yours, to properly print completely solid structures you've got to have everything set up absolutely right, with structures that have some sort of infill you have places for the extra material to go to, with solid ones the extra material can only go outwards

>> No.1771646
File: 194 KB, 800x1114, 1578589756675.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I will also just clarify so I'm clear, when I say "rough", I don't mean as in there are spots sticking up like pic related. It's still smooth, but running a finger along it's like it has a shit ton more friction. And also visually the "smoother" one is shinier than the other.

>> No.1771647

you should never print with 100% infill, don't go above 90%
but other than that the effectiveness of infill compared to surface layer per weight is a really difficult thing to calculate, pretty much the only way to be sure is to make case by case strength studies and comparing the different infill percentages and wall thicknesses, but that is not really too feasible, so a good rule of thumb is that the walls matter more than the infill.

>> No.1771652

So for decorative/cosplay prints you spray a coat of filler and sand etc to get it looking nice.
How does that hold up to wear and tear?

I'm gonna be printing something similar to a wrist rest so itll have a fair bit of friction against skin.
Will it do okay if I were to post process it or should I avoid fillers etc?

>> No.1771655

As well as paint does in general.

>> No.1771656

>it's way too thin and layer orientation is wrong for the kind of load it'll receive.
I cant see it going wrong honestly, give it a try and report back to us pls

>> No.1771659

What about thin walled structures?

>> No.1771663

Kind of difficult to explain this but thin walled structures ought to be fine since the material can "spill out" "universally"

>> No.1771668

Ah, just asking. I was going to print a bunch of them for testing purposes. 3mm thickness and about 150mm

>> No.1771679

Okay so let's say I've got my part smoothed and ready to go, is there a varnish or other clear coat that I can apply for protection and a really smooth surface?

>> No.1771682
File: 938 KB, 4000x3000, IMG_20200222_170643.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I printed an icosahedron lamp shade in vase mode and the walls came a bit wobbly. Is this normal?

>> No.1771687

Does anyone have the phrozen sonic. I am considering buying the phrozen sonic mini but it has a smaller z axis and a 1080p resolution instead of 1440p like the mars/photon.
If the drop off in resolution is negligible the I would be the sonic now.

>> No.1771700

where do you find the device id for the creality slicer ?
no matter what i put in it keeps shutting itself down

>> No.1771730

The parts where the bed is lower just won't squish as much (or it will straight-up fall in extreme circumstances) and the parts where it is higher it will squish more. Over a few layers this evens out since the printer is always extruding from the same even plane.

>> No.1771799

Doesn't vase mode limit wall thickness to just a single layer? If so, it wouldn't surprise me if the resulting print was fragile/pliable.

>> No.1771802

>for the kind of load it'll receive
Is an asshole really that powerful? I can't even crush prints with my hands if they have a decent amount of infill.

>> No.1771825
File: 577 KB, 3024x4032, marsbars.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My first resin print. The test rook models.

>> No.1771830

Anyone here paying ClockSpring3D on patreon? Couldn't find anything on the usual patreon sharing suspects, so please share if you are.

>> No.1771832

I've sliced the model in half, now how can i stick it together and be sure that its 100% in alignment?
I don't have a vice

>> No.1771848
File: 3 KB, 126x108, 1282874042043.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

bumping this question

>> No.1771919

New Thread >>1771918

>> No.1772252

Yeah, I guess stresses during print caused that.

>> No.1772484

Level the bed
Mine was warped, low in the middle, i put layers of blue tape down to get it mistly flat. It helped so much

>> No.1772487

how would putting blue tape on it make it flat? wont it be just as unlevel as the bed it clings too?
or do I not know the properties of this special blue tape?

>> No.1772941

can't see shit

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