Best power tools

[Anonymous No.1670124]

What power tools are necessary for home Homer’s DIYers and what brands are the best?

[Anonymous No.1670125]

>>1670124
>What power tools are necessary for home Homer’s DIYers
Buy what you need as you need it, not before.

>and what brands are the best?
Anything from the top brands will do a homeowner just fine. Hell, anything from any major brand probably would. Anyone falling for this bait is an idiot.

[Anonymous No.1670126]

Just posting what Ive learned since coming to DIY myself.

First question depends on how much you want to spend to start and what you plan on doing. I personally would start with a drill press, band saw, belt sander, and maybe a miter saw. Based on what Ive seen around here, again depending on what you plan on doing, you'll also eventually end up with a table saw, routing table, few different hand saws, and maybe a lathe.

In terms of the brand Ive noticed people around here hold Milwaukee in very high regards. In my experience you cant really go wrong with them, Powermatic, or Jet. One thing Ive also learned around, and talking to some people Ive met over the years with their own shop, is that unless you dont give a fuck about price dont just go to the hardware store and buy a bunch of powertools. Apparently if you can find a working belt driven table saw from the 70s or some shit made out of 700lbs of cast iron for a good price its a good buy?

[Anonymous No.1670174]

The only important difference between homeowner grade tool brands are exclusive tools. If you have a use for a tool that's only available from one brand, just stick with that brand. Otherwise pick your favorite color and go with that brand.

[Anonymous No.1670181]

My dumbass bought into the grey and orange batteries+charger, and they dont make a cordless bandsaw yet. Does anyone have any experience using a sawzall to cut EMT? I dont mind using my ol hacksaw to cut pipe but I fucking hate cutting out manholes in drywall with a keyhole saw while sitting on top of an 8 foot ladder.

[Anonymous No.1670190]

>>1670124
never buy from homedepot or lowes or any big box store they get diff rent sku with worse quality.

[Anonymous No.1670224]

>>1670124
I use this Every. Day.
The fact that I can use this one handed makes all the difference, cutting pipe or notching boards.
Everyone else I run into on the site loves it. It's just a great design and can take a beating

[Anonymous No.1670248]

I clear stuff with one of those. Take the blade out and battery off and it fits at the bottom of a backpack.

[Anonymous No.1670251]

>>1670248
Top is before, bottom after

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1670278]

>>1670124
Hilti and Festool some top tier pro shit.

Milwaukee, DeWalt, Makita, Bosch are more contractor tier. Milwaukee seems to have the best lineup for automotive stuff, plus 5yr warranty on tools compared to 3yrs on other brands.

Ryobi and Porter Cable are good DIY brands, might not last super long on the jobsite but will last you years for home use and be more than you need. Black $ Decker is a step below this, like occasional home use, but their 20V line isn’t terrible.

Ridgid & Kobalt are a little better than Ryobi-PC, a little below Milwaukee-DeWalt. They don’t have the greatest tool lineup, but you can get jobsite grade tools for good prices.

If you’re just getting into it and want a good at home brand, go with Ryobi. You can get a ton for the money, their brushless stuff is nice, and they have the best lineup of any affordable brands. If you have some money to spend, you can’t go wrong with Makita-Milwaukee-DeWalt. I love the newer 12V tools for around the house, all those brands have good lineups of 18/20V tools, but I would go Milwaukee if it were my choice because they have the best selection of mechanic oriented tools.

[Anonymous No.1670298]

>>1670124
I'm a huge fan of the Bauer 1/4 impact driver. That and a fuckton of stepper, drill, and other bits was the best $200 i ever spent.

I think they have coupons for just the driver at times.

The 20%-25% coupons dont work bechf is a bunch of faggots

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1670337]

>>1670298
I don’t understand why anybody would buy the Hercules/Bauer cordless tools. The only real draw is the cheap batteries, but you can get a decent Ryobi with a couple batteries for the same price as the Bauer, and you get a 3yr warranty with Ryobi while the HF shit is 90 days unless you buy the extended warranty.

Hercules impact driver w/ 1 battery and charger is ~$100. Home depot sales you could get Makita-DeWalt-Milwaukee with 2 batteries for the same price with a far better warranty.

[Anonymous No.1670419]

>>1670124
https://youtu.be/onzm43EIkxo
MILKWAUKEE AND DEWALT EVERYTHING
lol just kidding i am pretty partial to milwaukee tho but just get what you need from a reputable brand which has a damn good warranty

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1670444]

>>1670419
I’m starting to think that the M12 tools are one of the best choices for weekend warriors. The only thing that is lacking is a real circular saw, but a corded 7-1/4” saw is probably a better buy for weekenders because most cordless saws suck for anything more than trim unless you go with higher end brushless and big batteries.

Best thing about the M12 is you can get 4 tools with a good warranty and a couple batteries for <$200 if you wait for the sales.

[Anonymous No.1670451]

>>1670444
m12 is such a good line of tools especially the fuel variants i got my m12s on sale thats why i have the fuel variants im waiting for a really good deal on the m18 fuel variant for me to snatch them up !

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1670477]

>>1670451
The M12 Fuel stuff is close in pricing to cheaper 18V tools which is nice. You see the Fuel hammer drill and impact driver for $199 and often with a free tool like the non-fuel Hackzall or ratchet. I still think I fucked up buying the Ridgid 12V because a week later the M12 went on sale and I coulda gotten the drill, impact, and a free tool for $30 more. I don’t regret the purchase though, I shill the M12 because those Ridgid tools get used around the house way more than the 18V. I rarely ever need to grab the 18V drill for wood, and the 18V impact driver is kinda worthless because the 12V drivers are so strong that you would be grabbing an impact wrench if you need more power than the 12V can deliver.

M18 Fuel is great but I think a lot of that is beyond DIY tier. You can get non-Fuel brushless M18 tools for a pretty good price, you will see this M18 brushless hammer drill and impact driver with a couple 4.0 or 5.0 batteries for <$250. Otherwise the basic brushed M18 drill and 1/4” impact kit goes for $150 all the time.

Curious to see if Milwaukee will come out with compact 18V tools like Makita and DeWalt. Would be a nice option if their 12V line wasn’t already so good.

[Anonymous No.1670549]

>>1670181
Ridgid does have a compact sawzall now, looks almost as good as the m18 Hackzalls.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-OCTANE-Cordless-Brushless-One-Handed-Reciprocating-Saw-Tool-Only-R86448B/306925926

[Anonymous No.1670565]

>>1670444
what M12 really needs is a slick compact folding miter saw instead of a larger circular saw.

most people who use those tools need something compact and portable for working tight spaces or moving around constantly for finishing work. a tiny miter saw like Ryobi's 18v model but with a 6-1/2" blade running off of 2 12v batteries would be great for cutting trim or conduit with a hot saw blade.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1670590]

>>1670565
Meh, I don’t see that coming any time soon. Look at the Milwaukee chargers, I think they assume lots of people own both M12 and M18. They make an M12 circ saw (and mini cutoff wheel) but the reviews of the circ saw were people expecting way too much from it. If you’re doing carpentry, you probably want the 18V tools anyway. The 12V seems to be aimed at the tech trades a little more, not full scale assembly and building.

[Anonymous No.1670625]

>>1670549
Do you think itd be ballsy enough to cut through unistrut if I put a bi-metal blade on it though?

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1670694]

>>1670549
Damn, I was about to grab another one of those Octane battery kits to get that thing. I like my Octane sawzall, runs like a raped ape compared to the ol’ DeWalt 18V XRP saws.

>>1670625
I have heard really good things about the Diablo carbide blades when you need to get through big chunks of metal.

[Anonymous No.1670722]

>>1670694
I've used the carbide blades quite a bit, they are great for thick steel (3/8"+), stainless, or cast iron. Most people will never cut through thicker than 1/4" steel though... usually its faster to use a grinder if have to.

[Anonymous No.1670763]

I want a 1/2in impact wrench to remove crank pulleys and suspension bolts on cars, should I even bother with a good corded model (Milwaukee Refurb or Kobalt for $120) or just go straight to a Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2in + Battery + Charger ($300)?

Was also looking at the Earthquake XT/Harbor Freight 1/2" for $250 and the Kobalt 24v 1/2" Impact for $180 (this ones tempting solely cause the batteries are cheap, $50 each and the warranty is decent)

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1670765]

>>1670763
The good battery powered guns are way more powerful than any of the corded ones. All the corded designs are outdated because Milwaukee won’t make as much money selling you one corded impact when they could sell you the one that requires a couple of $100 batteries.

Earthquake is on sale for $240 all the time. It’s powerful, but it’s older brushed technology with a 90 day warranty. M18 Fuel is more powerful and brushless and always on sale at Home Depot for $249 with a free 5.0 battery. That battery can be used in more than one tool, there is a 5yr warranty on the M18 impact and only 90 days on the Earthquake. M18 chargers are super super cheap on Amazon and eBay.

The Kobalt 1/2” impact isn’t in the same league as the Earthquake or big M18 Fuel. It’s a decent gun, but it’s more in line with the mid-torque M18. Also I think those Kobalt power tools might be dying off since Craftsman is taking over Lowe’s, and even if batteries are only $50, what good is that if they stop selling the batteries or tools in another 18mos?

[Anonymous No.1670789]

So wanted to buy this universal hand held saw that all my friends have and it looks great
But then i wound out it is called angle GRINDER and the saw part of it doesn't even have any teeth, will it be able to still cut shit just as google as something that is called an actual saw?

[Anonymous No.1670790]

>>1670789
>google
*good
fucking auto correct man

[Anonymous No.1670847]

>>1670763
Cordless, not even a choice. Some of the fasteners you'll be using the thing on are obnoxious enough to access even without worrying about a cord, and cordless means you can use it while foraging for parts at UPullit or wherever if that floats your boat.

>>1670765
>milwaukee m18 fuel w/5.0 battery

Fuck yes, this or the DeWalt equivalent. Very nice rattleguns and solid lineups of other tools if one wants to expand from there.

>>1670789
>can a grinder cut things as well as a saw

Yes and no, it kind of depends on the application and MATERIAL you want to cut. In general the chipping action of toothed saw blades is better suited to relatively softer materials (example: wood) while the abrading action of grinder wheels is better for hard materials (example: metal).

[Anonymous No.1670860]

>>1670847
>while the abrading action of grinder wheels is better for hard materials (example: metal).
But they can cut wood as well right?

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1670885]

>>1670860
Has anybody tried this? Sounds like you would start a fire. It would cut, but the cuts would probably end up all black and charred with a smoldering pile of sawdust next to you.

[Anonymous No.1670894]

>>1670190
This is not true. Stop spreading this lie.

[Anonymous No.1670897]

>>1670885
This would be a great tool to have in your surival kit, an aku powered angle grinder instead of some gay ass flint and steel.

Anyway, surely they sell some toothed disc for the angle grinder? not everyone wants to buy a huge circular saw just to cut some planks

[Anonymous No.1670901]

>>1670860
This is how you lose a workshop
>>1670897
No, they don't. And you shouldn't try to use one in an angle grinder unless you're trying to get seriously hurt.

[Anonymous No.1670902]

>>1670901
Well that is terrible news then because i ordered one earlier this day solely for cutting wood

[Anonymous No.1670905]

>>1670902
Most angle grinders spin far too fast to do this safely and if you don't have a grinder with a brake built in for binding you're begging for an injury. Good luck.

[Anonymous No.1670912]

>>1670298
>Bauer 1/4 impact driver.
I found one on the side of the road.
I stopped to get it because I thought it was a Milwaukee.
When I got to it to pick it up and saw what it was,
I considered leaving it because I thought someone had tossed it out.
Since I'd already stopped, I took it with me.
The battery has contacts for each cell so I made a cable for it.
I charge it on my iMax-B6 in balance charge mode.
I have a Milwaukee and a Ryobi in 1/4" and I have to say the Bauer is better than I expected.
I don't like the trigger because it's difficult to use for low speed/torque.
I wouldn't buy one but it's OK for a freebie.

[Anonymous No.1670916]

>>1670847
>or the DeWalt equivalent
>implying DeWalt makes one equivalent to Milwaukee...

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1670919]

>>1670916
They do tho.

The newest Milwaukee is the best by a small margin, but the DeWalt and Earthquake are real close and should tackle any job you could do with the best 1/2” air gun. Makita has a newer brushless one that is up there as well.

[Anonymous No.1670961]

>>1670549
>>1670694
You guys reckon I should wait for the next "big home depot sale" on ridgid tools or should I just cop? I have the 5X tools & batteries but I'm sure that the saw would have more oomph if I paired it with the proper octane batteries instead...

[Anonymous No.1671003]

>>1670919
i'm pretty happy with the dewalt impact. there's only been like 2 bolts it wouldn't remove and they were above 1" and had been in place for 60 or so years.

the majority of people here are likely just using impacts for lug nuts and suspension parts and pretty much any of the newer high torque impacts will tackle that shit without any issue.

only real downside to those impacts is that they wear out sockets pretty damn quick. not really an issue with most brands offering hassle free exchange but still annoying.

[Anonymous No.1671038]

>>1670124
Angle grinder, power drill, jigsaw, vice, bench grinder, hammer, workbench, goggles, gloves, hearing protection, sand paper 60-1200 grit, belt knife, mallet, broach, ruler and protractor, punch, hacksaw, marker, wood glue, 2 part epoxy, file set, solder, propane torch, wood rasp, clamps.

[Anonymous No.1671043]

>>1670124
Harbor Freight-> Used name brand off craigslist/pawn shops -> new name brand on sale

Only buy as you absolutely need, don’t bulk buy tools.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1671129]

>>1670961
I have the Octane sawzall. I also have the Octane batteries but haven’t done a proper head by head so not sure how noticeable the difference is.

>>1671003
There’s only like 4 or 5 1/2” impacts in that “High Tourque” class. The Ryobi, Ridgid, Kobalt, Bauer are all closer to the mid-torque for lugnuts and suspension that isn’t totally fucked. The high torque are good for stubborn crank bolts and salt belt suspension parts.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1671137]

>>1670961
Also they might still have that Octane battery set with a free tool. That’s how I got my impact wrench. Other upside is by buying the kit with a charger and two batteries, I got a lifetime warranty on the batteries. It would only be 3 years if I bought the batteries on their own.

Not sure what the next sale will be. Most of the time it seems like you need to buy a kit with drill, driver, and more to get the free tool, but maybe they will have something coming up like “Buy a bare Octane tool, get a free 3.0 battery”.

>tfw grill is like “take a sexy pic of me with the saw”
>get a good blue-board safe pic with no face
>”Nooo you can’t post it!”

[Anonymous No.1671143]

>>1670251
wtf you run like a 2' blade on that thing?

[Anonymous No.1671153]

who makes the best die grinder? i don't want some $20 HF piece of shit and all the major brands are $80+. i can get a IR combo kit with a regular die grinder and a angled die grinder for $120 but i don't really need both

[Anonymous No.1671208]

>>1670124
>what brands are the best?
I like to get Makita because all my friends have Makita and we all have the same tools, and we bring them all to the jobsite and when someone says 'hay bud, grab me a drill' we all say "which one do you want?? My-kita or your-kita? hahahaha" lol.

[Anonymous No.1671419]

>>1671208
Makita is good quality but insanely overpriced.
I used to buy makita tools some years ago but not anymore since i can get much cheaper ones nowadays with only slightly lesser quality

[Anonymous No.1671529]

>third makita battery to die withing a year
I keep the damn things charged as well before storing them, I'm so done with this shit

[Anonymous No.1671536]

>>1671529
Go with the best battery on the market today.

[Anonymous No.1671546]

>>1671536
I'm unironically considering switching to Ryobi's brushelss stuff

[Anonymous No.1671577]

>>1671546
I have the brushless 7 1/4” circular saw. I really like it. I mainly use it to cut and rip OSB but it slides right through 2x4s as wel

[Anonymous No.1671666]

What about Rigid and their free batteries for life thing? Anyone have experience with it?

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1671748]

>>1671666
Haven’t tried to warranty one yet, but remember that individual batteries only have a 3 year warranty. The batteries that come in kits will have a lifetime warranty.

I was curious about this too because when will they let you do it? Like if I have an old pack that’s only running 25% capacity of what it was new, will they replace it? Or do I have to run the thing inside the oven to try and destroy the cells completely?

[Anonymous No.1672055]

>>1671748
as long as they were properly registered all you need to do is call the phone number on the bottom of the battery and they will send you a new one. they might require you to send them the old one first but whatever.

dont bother taking the battery back to the store, they will either send you over to the tool repair desk at Tool Rental who will follow the same warranty process you could have done at home or you can get in an argument with a manager and try to get an $80 battery for free off the shelf.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1672343]

>>1672055
Yeah I figured that was the case. Registering for the warranty wasn’t always the easiest process, but I think they do it on purpose. If you buy in-store, you have to enter all the info like store # and transaction #, but they will email you back a week later saying they need a scan or pic of the receipt before they will approve the registration. So the next tool I got, there is an option to attach a pic or scan file when you do the registration, so I did that. 3 or 4 weeks pass and the registration was still pending, so I messaged them through the registration page to ask if everything was ok. A week later, no reply, so I message them a second time, and they tell me to call. So I call the registration phone number (with some stupid M-F hours of course), sit on hold for 20min, finally get through and the lady is like “I see you uploaded your receipt, but that is for your records, I’m going to send you an email and you need to reply to the email with the pic of the receipt”. Took like 6 weeks to finally get the registration for that impact gun approved.

I was just curious how dead the battery has to be before they will send you a new one. Like if I’m getting 50%-60% of the original capacity, would they replace it?

[Anonymous No.1672352]

I have never had a ryobi product do me wrong.
except for a $100 40v lawn equipment battery that died on me because i'm a retard and stored/charged a lithium ion battery in a 100 degree garage for 3 years

[Anonymous No.1672761]

>>1672352
Ryobi has so much great stuff, its their oddball tool lineup where the really shine, especially compared to all of the other "homeowner" focused brands like Porter Cable that dont even come close.

you can have a whole set of Milwaukee tools for getting serious work done but stuff keep a fleet of Ryobi stuff on the side for use around the house that you cant get from any of the higher end brands.

[Anonymous No.1672790]

It used to be when I was in school, shop teachers would tell us to buy a harbor freight tool first if you wanted to try out a particular tool. Now Harbor Freight thinks their shit is at least worth a Ryobi - but still buy chink shit and name them things like Hercules. Better to call them Prometheus given the reciprocating saw I bought caught on fire while trying to cut through angle iron.

The only cordless power tools I've bought so far is a B&D drill (when I first bought my condo), and then a few years later a DeWalt impact driver. As others have mentioned, B&D is fine for occasional home usage. I got the DeWalt on a great sale - and I like bright colors on my tools because they're easier to spot if you misplace them. Granted - you could always repaint your tools as well.

That said, I mostly still use corded. I work at home mostly - and I have easy access to outlets and an extension cord. This lets me buy whatever tool I want, regardless of brand.
I've used or borrowed most brands you get at a Depot or Lowe's - and frankly they all seem fine.
That said, here's an arbitrary ranking:
Top:
DeWalt - ergonomic as fuck. Makita - slightly better cordless. Milwaukee - skookum as fuck.
[Powergap]
Bosch, Hitachi and Porter Cable - light contractor, above average DIY tools. Only issue is I only see these in very specific, stores.
Everything else - good enough
[Literal Shit with a battery and drill bit in it]
Anything Harbor Freight

At this point, there are very few differences between most brands. Everyone's coming up with gimmicks, and then everyone else eventually copies those gimmicks that are worth a damn. The tier you buy from mostly determines build quality, and availability of replacement parts for some tool types. Figure out which brand's look gives you a stiffy, and you'll probably do fine.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1672800]

>>1672790
Harbor Freight finally started releasing more tools to go with the Bauer and Hercules line.

With the yard tools and all the new shit, Bauer isn’t a bad alternative to Ryobi, but the warranty kills it and you will end up spending just as much with the 2yr warranty when Ryobi has great deals on kits and 3yrs without paying extra.

Hercules though, I have no idea why you would want those over DeWalt or Milwaukee. From all the reviews, they’re built just as well, but the price isn’t great so why would anybody take them over a trusted brand?

Oh and Home Depot has some great Milwaukee deals right now. This M12 would be awesome for that price. There is an M18 kit for $299 with a drill, impact, hackzall, circ saw, and a couple batteries. That’s a hell of a starter set for DIY types.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1672806]

>>1672800
>tfw a Hercules with a 90 day warranty costs this much

[Anonymous No.1672810]

>>1672800
I found that my local Lowes atleast, puts tools on steep clearance when a newer model is being rolled out.
They'll stock them away from the other tools, but I got my DeWalt impact driver for nearly half off, and it came with two batteries + charger.
Same battery as the newer model, apparently it's just a bit heavier.

Meanwhile, I don't think I've ever seen HF put out coupons that discount any of their 'higher quality' power tools, let alone a decent sale on them. Their fine print always calls out things like Hercules as ineligible.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1672812]

>>1672810
They do offer coupons, but it still doesn’t make up for it. There’s often stuff for $10 off a Hercules or Bauer impact driver, but that warranty kills me and you can get a big Ryobi set for so cheap.

The only thing that has me thinking now is the Bauer yard tools. They came out with a chainsaw and blower and it’s hard to beat the bare tool pricing.

>tfw just looked at Home Depot and the cheapest Ryobi 18V blower is only $45

Well nevermind. Fuck Hercules and Bauer.

[Anonymous No.1672838]

>>1672790
>no Hilti included in ranking
You must suck down söy in front of a keyboard for a living

[Anonymous No.1672881]

>>1672800
>>1672806
>>1672812
Yo wtf that's cheap. How good are the 12v tools for hobbyists? Just bought a Hazard Fraught ratchet and spare battery for $130, good thing I didn't open it

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1672892]

>>1672881
I have Ridgid 12V stuff and I barely ever touch my 18v drill and impact driver.

What ratchet did you get? The Earthquake 12V one? Fuck that, go with the M12 stuff instead. The Earthquake 12V only has 2 tools and no warranty. The M12 lineup is great and has a 5yr warranty.

Only thing I would say is don’t expect the Hackzall to run forever on the 1.5Ah packs, but that’s the same with 18V tools as well. It will probably run the ratchet the whole day and Milwaukee sells 6.0Ah packs for the M12 tools too.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1672900]

>>1672881
>>1672892
And anyway you just spent $130 on HF shit. The Home Depot often has the M12 drill and impact set (2 batteries included) on sale for $150 with a free tool (ratchet, hackzall, oscillating tool). So $20 more than HF for a Milwaukee ratchet and 2 batteries, plus a bonus drill and impact driver. That’s a no brainer.

[Anonymous No.1672905]

>>1672838
I also didn't have Festool in their either. None of the Home Depots, Lowes, Ace's, True Values, etc. carry Hilti tools near me. Really, the only place I've seen Festool was a boutique wood working supplier.
I don't have anything against either of those brands - I've just never used them.

[Anonymous No.1672920]

>>1671208
>when someone says 'hay bud, grab me a drill' we all say "which one do you want?? My-kita or your-kita? hahahaha" lol.

[Anonymous No.1672923]

>>1672352
>18V battery powered wagon
what the fuck does it even do

[Anonymous No.1672965]

I work on board a ship where all our power tools are Hitachi. They cop serious abuse, regularly get paint, salt-water and solvents splashed on them as well as just generally being treated poorly. Always last for ages and only tend to die when someone seriously fucks one.
Around the house I use Ozito since they're dirt cheap and I'm usually only doing odd-jobs hear and there. Never had a complaint with any of them, if I use any Ozito tool frequently and it dies I'll probably replace it with a Hitachi.

[Anonymous No.1673006]

>>1672923
It wagons. Always been interested in their 40v lawn stuff; it's the only Ryobi that makes sense for me to look into because for 20v I already invested in team orange.

[Anonymous No.1673013]

>>1672838
Only if Black and Decker was on the list, anon.

[Anonymous No.1673022]

For what I know

1. Impact with drill chuck
2. Saw

Circular for ripping up wood
Band for metal tubing
Recip for all forms of demo/rough cuts
Oscillator for detailed cuts, small cuts

3. Roto hammer for concrete anchors
4. Angle Grinder. Cut, Sand, Polish, Sharpen metal.
5. For homeowners, rotozip/cut out tool. You can use an oscillator, but these absolutely own drywall and thin plywood

>>1670181
sawzalls cut emt, you need the right blade, and the emt secured. rough cuts. band saws cut clean, little kickback, but are specialize for such, and cost more. circular saws are next best, little kickback, way too fucking loud, cuts are imprecise.

guys swear by sawzalls, but they're rough demolition tools. when i picked up a sawzall, my foreman and journeymen would start asking questions of wtf I was doing.

sure the sawzall can cut drywall, I'd rather use a rotozip/cut out/router.

[Anonymous No.1673037]

>>1671143
It just a Diablo 1 foot rough cut lumber blade. It just refuses to go dull.

[Anonymous No.1673040]

I do Black and Decker because it's the cheapest. Kill me!

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1673145]

>>1673040
Their 20v stuff isn’t bad. Any brand above that is honestly overkill for the average homeowner who is going to use the thing once every month or two to put in a few drywall anchors or build a flat pack TV stand.

I survived fine for years with a crappy B&D 14V. I gave the thing to my little brother when he got his first apartment and he was like “What am I supposed to do with this?”. Showed him the driver bits and drill bits and said “When a screwdriver is too slow, use this.” My sister just got the 20V one a few months ago when she was asking me how to hang some planters at her place.

[Anonymous No.1673373]

>>1670124
Bosch.

[Anonymous No.1673439]

>tempted to drop ~$120 on the Ridgid one-handed sawzall
>already have batteries for it but they're 5x not Octane
>dont know how much money I'd be saving/more I'd be getting if I just suck it up and wait until the xmas sales
I dont mind cutting 3/4" EMT with a hacksaw but I fucking hate cutting (regular not-shallow) unistrut by hand with a hacksaw, IDK if im just a little bitch or what

[Anonymous No.1673441]

>>1673022
>guys swear by sawzalls, but they're rough demolition tools. when i picked up a sawzall, my foreman and journeymen would start asking questions of wtf I was doing.
see
>>1673439
I had to cut some unistrut by hand on a hot ass fucking flat roof this week to mount some disconnects for an a/c install...I didnt want to be whiny with my j-man and say "why cant we cut this with the (corded) bandsaw" but goddamn that shit gassed me out quick especially out in the sun

[Anonymous No.1673443]

This combo was on special/sale for 170 last month via Home Depot online sales. Was it just a product offload or was it different inside components than the normal 199 priced tool-only version? Does anybody have one of these too? It’s another want but don’t need it for me, though if I did get it, I’d probably take it on road trips for just in case I have to do a wheel change

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1673661]

>>1673443
That’s the mid torque. But it’s also the brushless XR so it’s the good mid torque, not really an old outdated model. So it’s not going to break loose stubborn axle nuts but it will be good for lugnuts (provided the last person didn’t slam them on with a big gun).

Those tools can be confusing, there have been plenty of people who got the old big brushed impact wrench for <$200 and thought they were getting the 1300ft-lb model. Look at the model # when in doubt.

[Anonymous No.1673681]

>>1673661
Yeah you have to be careful with them. Dewalt has done a really shitty job making it clear what’s what. Milwaukee isn’t much better now that the the fuel line up is getting so many older models.

>>1673443
That particular impact is good for mid range torque and is fairly compact compared to the big one. That said for the price there’s really no reason to buy it over the big one especially if you already have batteries. I’ve only ran into 2 nuts/bolts the 1300ft couldn’t break loose and they were about 1 1/2” bolts.

[Anonymous No.1673767]

>>1670190
Can you imagine what a pain in the ass this would be to manage, and all for what advantage to the manufacturer?

[Anonymous No.1673800]

>>1673767
you offer price matching from competitors but you only sell things exclusive to your store

[Anonymous No.1673825]

>>1670126
>no hand drills
opinion disregarded

[Anonymous No.1673826]

>>1673681
>>1673661
I wouldn’t be doing anything heavy with it like a shop might, just lug nuts probably. I can see it being good to have if I had to change the tire on the trailer when taking fire wood home

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1673942]

>>1673681
Meh, look at the model number and specs. Plus the size will tell you. But I agree, they have so many models of impacts and drills.

>>1673826
Yeah it will be good for that. Ever since lithium got popular, people love those impacts for that purpose. You can read the reviews for them and tons of people are always like “I tow my trailer a lot and take this with me on every trip, it has saved my ass twice already”.

That mid torque 1/2” size is great for lugnuts though. My Ridgid is the same class and I’m waiting for somebody to call me with a flat and I can run over there like “This was so much easier than bouncing on a shitty tire iron!”

[Anonymous No.1674043]

From my experience:

Festool and Hilti are far above what you need if not a professional, but damn they are good shit.

Panasonic and dewalt are next. Significantly worse, but still good


Hitachi and Makita are completely fine, well enough for most people.

Ryobi is serviceable, but I'd rather use something else. But the battery is good, and they are cheap.

Black and decker makes me want to shoot myself.

[Anonymous No.1674046]

>>1674043
What's your trade, where you get enough experience using that many different brands of tools?
I've never seen let alone used festool in the real world, only in stores or on youtube.

[Anonymous No.1674050]

>>1670124
Porter Cable

[Anonymous No.1674053]

Just get whatever is a step up from the very cheapest. I needed a circular saw and I bought the SKIL 5280- 01. It will get the job done for the few things I will need it for.

[Anonymous No.1674054]

>>1674046
I'm a software engineer, but I've worked some carpentry, helped friends, friends of parents etc. Built verandas, sheds etc.

Used Festool when I helped with heavy interior installations through a friend of my parents. Real good stuff, wish I could afford to spend money on it, but it seems a bit unjustifiable, at least untill I get my own house. Panasonic does for now without problems.

The rest outside of Hilti is encountered everywhere,just whatever people have.

I do carpentry as a hobby, not a job really.

[Anonymous No.1674315]

black & decker is absolute garbage
I would use IKEA chinkshit over them.

[Anonymous No.1674327]

>>1673826
yeah it'll work fine for that. might have issues with really stubborn suspension bolts but really a lot of the time if they are stuck that badly the bigger impacts will just snap the fucking things off anyway.

>>1673942
yeah it's not an issue for someone that knows what he wants but for people that don't it's a real cluster fuck. one things for sure if i ever have to replace my impact i'll be getting the hog ring this time. got the detent pin anvil and it can be a real cunt getting sockets off sometimes. actually i wonder if i can just buy the anvil

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1674328]

>>1674315
Have you used any of the 20V lithium stuff? It’s not bad for homeowner use, although that $35 set with bits included is the shittiest model that would pass for “useful”.

[Anonymous No.1674329]

>>1674327
picked up pic related today. not sure how much i'll actually use it but fucking around with it a bit it's got enough torque to fuck up your wrist. gotta be careful

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1674332]

>>1674329
Those things ratchet so you can break nuts loose by hand, right? You also got the Fuel so more torque, but that’s one of the big reasons I was so tempted to spend more over the Ridgid 12V. It would probably be a waste for the homeowner, but seems like lots of people who buy those end up using them more than they thought they would.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1674334]

>>1674327
Which model impact wrench do you have?

Pic related is for the big Fuel 1/2” (2762-22) from EReplacementParts.

>tfw clamshell is only ~$25
Hmm I wonder if you can frankenstein some of the brand engineered tools...

[Anonymous No.1674337]

>>1674332
yup although they tell you not to use it that way. it's rated for 55ft-lbs while the 1/2" i believe was 65. was tempted to buy the 1/2 but the 3/8 was on sale making it about $50 less then the 1/2. if i find i actually use it a decent bit i'll just buy the 1/2 later on.

honestly i only bought it because i had a battery and no tools to use it with. all of my tools are Dewalt but i bought my grandfather one those Milwaukee heated jackets a couple years ago. he never used the heat with it so the battery has just been sitting around doing jack shit and i wanted to make use of it.

[Anonymous No.1674346]

>>1674334
it's the Dewalt DCF899. never thought to look but i'm seeing the anvil for around $20. might need to order one soon. mine is getting a decent bit of wear on the edges anyway

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1674354]

>>1674337
The M12 Fuel stubby impact wrenches and impact driver are dope as well. You will barely ever touch the 18V impact driver if you get one of those.

And 3/8” is probably a better option. Any fastener >19mm is going to be too much for a ratchet like that.

[Anonymous No.1674361]

>>1674354
most of what i deal with is 3/4" and up, it would be nice to have a stubby tho. i have a low torque 1/2" but it's pretty bulky and has less torque then the newer stubby impacts

[Vosh No.1674514]

>>1670278
You're a little out of date. Kobalt, DeWalt, and Hercules are all on the same quality level, and kobalt matches Milwaukee's warranty.

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1674534]

>>1674514
Kobalt is a little out of date (already) because that brand is dying. Hercules is like lower level DeWalt models.

[Anonymous No.1674592]

>>1674514
>kobalt
dead brand. it's gonna be interesting to see if Lowes decide to keep honoring the warranty once they fully drop the brand. they keep saying they are committed to the brand but walking into the store tells the truth. every Lowes near me has almost completely switched to Craftsman with kobalt being reduced to a tiny section of hand tools. i haven't seen a kobalt power tool in store in over a year.

[Anonymous No.1674599]

I have always been partial towards Bosch, and own lots of corded and battery powered tools. However I just recently got a new Makita cordless saw with brushless motor, and it is absolutely leagues ahead of Bosch.

[Anonymous No.1675493]

>>1670961
buy on Direct Tools. it's their factory outlet

[Anonymous No.1675495]

>>1674050
>porter cable in 2019

[Anonymous No.1675497]

>>1672761
THIS

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1675518]

>>1675495
They aren’t bad. It’s like SB&D’s Ryobi, maybe a small step above Ryobi but without the sweet lineup. A lot of their stuff seems like more than a homeowner needs but you could get a pretty good weekend warrior setup for well under $300 if you catch a good sale at Lowe’s.

>>1675493
I have seen that website before. Some of the deals look ok, but I don’t think I would buy any of the refurb Ridgid on there because I doubt they would warranty it for you.

[Anonymous No.1676122]

>>1674315
Those unironically make great cordless screwdrivers

[Anonymous No.1677056]

parents are giving me a big box store generator. i know its not honda or champion but not sure of the brand. they said they used it once right when they bought it and then the power came right back on within minutes. they said they just "let it run" once after that. is it still worth breaking in?

[Anonymous No.1677210]

>>1670124
A spot welder. Youtube how to build 18650 packs and buy every power tool that's battery powered for under 5 or 10 bucks you can find at yard sales. Junk laptop batteries until you are comfy with a good setup. Then buy new cells

[THe_KvD !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1677219]

>>1677210
Ugh i need to finish mine with the car battery. I just replaced the battery in my car, I shoulda kept that and brought in the old super dead one I used for the spot charger.

>>1677056
You should be ok. Make sure you don’t store it with gas in it (in the lines and carb at least), make sure the oil is fresh, and you should be set. I never really broke mine in and it runs fine. I stored it with gas in the tank but made sure to use some Sta-Bil (or 0% ethanol is even better) and I always run the engine with the fuel valve shut off before storage so there is no fuel sitting in the carb or lines.

[Anonymous No.1677303]

>>1676122
dubs of truth