qtddtot Stupid Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

[Anonymous No.1581083]

didn't see one. yell at me if it's there and I missed it.

So what do you call this stuff? I used to know and forgot its for like prototyping shit.

[Anonymous No.1581092]

I'm moving to the country and want to get line of sight/fixed wireless internet.

To get over the treeline to see the broadcast towers, I'll need an 80-foot pole of some kind.
Self-supporting towers are too pricey.

What's my best (cheapest) bet? An old utility pole? A fiberglass pole? A flag pole? Two or three smaller poles joined together?

[Anonymous No.1581100]

Me and my dad just got a wirefeed welder and for a while it would stop feeding the moment the arc was struck. I got it working fine, but want to know what the hell happened. My dad would start and I was watching the feeder, and it was like it immediately lost tension, the roller would still spin, but it wouldn't pull any wire.

It turned out we didn't have a tip in, but would that really cause that problem? My theory is that my dad welds too close to the tip anyway, and maybe not having the tip caused the heat to expand the wire and get it to catch, because it would start feeding right after you lost the arc, so it isn't like it was a kink or an actual clog or something.

[Anonymous No.1581114]

I fucked up. I just bought like 8000 units of small solar panels. how the shit am I going to store this stuff. Can I stack it? How high?

I don't get the racks. Is there a better way or do I need to go drop money on shelving?

[Anonymous No.1581115]

>>1581092
>I'm moving to the country

Do you want to eat a lot of peaches?

[Anonymous No.1581123]

>>1581115
Only if ninjas are involved.

Also I must admit I'm embarrassed how long it took me to get that they were talking about pussy.

[Anonymous No.1581154]

After spending most of my afternoon on painting my dank basement's walls with anti-humidity paint and achieving sub-par results I'm not too sure if it will be enough to keep water drops from forming on the ceiling and black mold at bay.
Is there any more steps I can take to ensure dryness in my basement? Can I line the walls with something?

[Anonymous No.1581155]

>>1581083
Hey is Bepis still looking for drill bits?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhpOg186fks

[Anonymous No.1581176]

>>1581154
dehumidifier and solve where the water is entering from, hire someone to come do co2 blasting and actually kill the mold

[Anonymous No.1581179]

1. I keep nicking my squares with my marking knives and shaving small slivers of metal off. How do I avoid this? It doesn't seem like a problem most people have and searching has left with no solutions. It seems like something that would be taught in a shop class or formal setting as a basic thing but I have nothing like that near me

2. My clamps don't hold wood straight for shit unless I tighten them down enough to seriously dent the wood. I have to constantly adjust them because the wood will just slide against each other while I'm trying to nail/drill/screw and go cockeye.

3. How hard am I supposed to hit nails with a hammer? How many blows should it take to nail together some 1x2s?

4. How to prevent racking in nailed together furniture? More boards? More nails? I made a shitty shelf to just store things temporarily and it's leaning pretty badly with wiggle room to spare despite the nails in it looking like that should be impossible. I think it may be in the design because it's just 4 1x2 posts with some 1x2 boards nailed to the outsides of each. I don't have formal training so I understand how to make cuts and such but failing to design simple things to practice on that will be useful and will not collapse is killing my drive.

5. Even with a miter box my cuts often come out crooked. Not in the yaw (parallel with the ground) direction but in the roll or plumb direction. Did I fuck up my hand saw's set or am I doing something wrong?

6. I have some salvaged ipe that I'm struggling to plane. It came roughsawn and has tearout/degraded wood so it needs to be taken down a lot to be smooth, but my hand planes will just stop dead if i try to cut it any deeper than scraping. Rasping it works better but it's still painfully slow and I'm not going to be a dick and ruin someone else's tablesaw or planer. I've been thinking about just buying a belt sander or angle grinder to get it flat...

[Anonymous No.1581190]

>>1581154
buy a $300 industrial dehumidifier and run it constantly.

[Anonymous No.1581191]

The only purpose of a sump is for a pump to be placed in there, right? Is there some other magical use I can't imagine? I know some showers and washing machine of lazy diyers will dump into a sump.

[Anonymous No.1581200]

Why would i need to thin paint?

I've never thinned (household; wall or furniture) paint, yet see people online do it almost every time

[Anonymous No.1581211]

>>1581200

You never thin latex unless you have a crap-assed sprayer. Occasionally you can improve oil or alkyd paint with a bit of thinner, especially if it's a hot dry day, but you can overdo it.

In general, new paint should brush, roll, and spray without being thinned.

[Anonymous No.1581217]

>>1581211
Nice, thanks. Kind of lines up with what was thinking anyway

[Anonymous No.1581240]

>>1581114
lmao - just get 5 x 4 shelf plastic racks, shouldn't be that much weight in the panels, maybe $25 a rack. What you doing with them, or, not got that far in advance planning ?

[Anonymous No.1581276]

Am I right that this thing is just two flat pieces of aluminum, tapped and joined with two screws? (and washers in between each key)

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1581279]

Anybody have good long drill-impact driver bits? Like 4”-6” bits, but if it’s a PH#1 or small Torx, I don’t want a 1/4” wide shaft all the way down so it doesn’t fit in recessed holes and shit. I’m having a hard time finding a good set of bits like that. Pic related is the closest, but even then it’s a 1/4” shaft most of the way which sucks if I’m trying to drive a screw at the bottom of a 3/16” hole.

>>1581092
How windy is it? You could attach a router to a kite. Be careful during storms.

>>1581276
And a bottle opener

[Anonymous No.1581303]

>>1581276
yes with the clip and loop also held in the same way. Less keys = screws protrude more. If you're trying to do it cheaper, you can get similar but color anodized chinese ones for less than the cost of raw materials and electricity to machine it yourself though due to economies of scale. But it should be a simple project if you just want to have a thing to do yourself.

[Anonymous No.1581304]

>>1581083
>So what do you call this stuff?
strut channel or Unistrut or similar brand names.

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1581310]

>>1581303
This is why you do the washers and remove one with each key added.

There’s also the screws like pic related, I’m not sure what to call them but they hold the belt clip on my knoife sheath. Folding knives probably have the same thing. Would make for a smoother action on the keys too.

[Anonymous No.1581326]

Any suggestions for a decent soldering iron for someone completely new to it?

[Anonymous No.1581330]

>>1581310
That's called a sex bolt or axial barrel nut. A similar fastener is used in saw handles called "saw nuts" or "split nuts" (not the same as lathe split nuts). I've salvaged some from metal framed ikea furniture before but they also are used some times for wheels or other moving parts to cover the threads.

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1581332]

>>1581326
What is your budget? I keep getting tempted by those $35 Wellers too, but people always recommend other stuff because you want real temp control, not a knob with 1-10.

The $100 Hakko blue and yellow one is the best way to go even if it looks like a toy. The TS-80 or TS-100 is another that people seem to love and is less expensive but you often need to spend ~$10 on a power supply too. Otherwise there are lots of halfway decent chink ones for $30-$50, look for one that can use Hakko tips and has good reviews on the temp control.

[Anonymous No.1581335]

>>1581092
You cant afford an 80' utility pole.

You need a lightweight radio mast with guy wire supports. It might be cheaper to setup a passive reflector somewhere if you can get the okay for it

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1581338]

>>1581326
>>1581332
Pic related are a couple more cheap ones. Ebay or Ali will probably be even cheaper. These use the same tip as Hakkos so you will always be able to get replacements if the company disappears. The actual soldering irons may be interchangeable as well but don’t quote me on that.

Everybody on here says the Wellers are crappy unless yo start going wth $100+ pro units.

[Anonymous No.1581345]

>>1581332
>Otherwise there are lots of halfway decent chink ones for $30-$50, look for one that can use Hakko tips and has good reviews on the temp control.
CXG 936d would be fine enough. Ceramic heater, 900m tips and decent temp control.

[Anonymous No.1581350]

>>1581279
>>1581092 here. Not too windy. Anyway, FranklinNet doesn't serve my zip code.

>>1581335
Thanks for the input. You're right, this quote is bullshit. Any idea where I might shop for one of those radio masts, and what kind of footprint they need for support?

[Anonymous No.1581391]

>>1581350
You also need to bury like 8" of it in the ground so your need to build a mast on top of it and d someone willing to climb it.

That might be close to the quote of a radio tower installed though.

[Anonymous No.1581394]

>>1581350
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_repeater

So shit like that. You just need to make a friend at higher altitude than you that has LoS to you and the radio.

[Anonymous No.1581398]

>>1581240
Going to make a few solar panels, then sell the rest somehow. I don't know, I went crazy. I have no place to store all this shit.


>5 x 4 shelf plastic racks
you think I can get some shit tier harbor freight plastic racks? I was thinking of getting stackable tubs, but those are pretty damn expensive.

[Anonymous No.1581410]

>>1581310

[Anonymous No.1581411]

I have a project that requires a custom CNC job in an aluminum block.
What service do you recommend? I need international shipping (Not from US).

[Anonymous No.1581413]

Alright internet experts, I'm looking for 2 1/2 inch hose for my shop vac and cyber shopping is frustrating me. I just want about fifteen feet of the hose. I don't need to pay double because it has the connectors that I already possess. I know how to eBay but I can't find that shit. As payment, I will tell you that Alexa is totally wrong if you ask her how many mexicans are in mexico. They are quadruple the worlds population, according to her.

[Anonymous No.1581414]

>>1581410
Ha ha. Chicago screws. Fu2 Chicago.

[Anonymous No.1581424]

>>1581304
oh thanks! I finally found "structure kit" but it was all VEX and shit. nothing like this.

[Anonymous No.1581430]

>>1581350
>Thanks for the input. You're right, this quote is bullshit. Any idea where I might shop for one of those radio masts, and what kind of footprint they need for support?

I work in the WISP industry, for that much of an outlay cost most people settle for 4G modems.

A second (but slower) option is a lower frequency 900Mhz stuff will do non-LOS at a speed penalty

I do appreciate the determination.

[Milwaukee No.1581463]

>>1581100

not having a tip in causes tiny arcs to weld the wire to its liner making it stick

[Milwaukee No.1581465]

>>1581463

and spatter, and heat. and dont weld without a tip you fucking mongolian

[Anonymous No.1581470]

My trailer has this screw for grounding. I was going to replace it, but it looks pretty permanant. Is this normal, or is this some shit my dad drilled and fucked in there.

If I hit it with some wire brush it'll be good to go, yeah?

>inb4 run ground wire to all the lights

[Anonymous No.1581480]

>>1581470
Probably a good idea to hit up all the ground points and clean them if you are going to do one.

[Anonymous No.1581485]

>>1581480
kk

[Anonymous No.1581486]

>>1581391
Yeah, the actual foot height that we need is 70, so the 80 foot pole accounts for that. Was looking into radio towers, they are probably going to be 5K plus.

>>1581394
Intriguing! We are sort of at the top of our area, but we have a neighbor to the north that might have a better sight of the ridge and tower. That would be dope.

>>1581430
Annoyingly, I bought a Sprint 4G modem but we only get 3G at the site. Verizon's map claims that they get 4G LTE to us there, but I've been burnt before by trusting the Sprint coverage map.

We also have DSL available in the area, 24 mbps down, 3 up, with no likelihood of that changing anytime soon. Both me and my wife will be doing a lot of screen sharing because we'll be working remotely, not sure if that'll be good enough.

[Anonymous No.1581489]

Is there any downside to a ratcheting screwdriver?
I was going to buy an 11 in 1 but for 5 dollars extra I can get the ratcheting version, and it seems like a straight upgrade. Is there anything that is worse about it like "the mechanisms are liable to break" or something?

[Anonymous No.1581505]

Creating a small 250mm x 100 x 80mm wooden mold with a wooden block inside at 230mm x 80mm x 60mm for a candle.

Can I get away with just a cement, sand and water mix?

[Anonymous No.1581526]

Which setting do I use to cut at an angle, for like a frame or Something?
As I see it I can use them both, so which one is to prefer?

[Anonymous No.1581527]

Can I r600a into r12 fridge?
I accidentally coil with knife.

[Anonymous No.1581530]

>>1581527
Can I use propane butane mix with smelly gas for torches instead of r600a?

[Anonymous No.1581542]

>>1581489
I spend a lot of time maintaining my snap-on ratcheting screwdriver. It craps out all the time. At least it is serviceable. I know some appreciate Klein. If you aren't doing large scale production, you're probably lazy for getting a ratchet. And if you do more than an average amount of work around the house, it will probably piss you off. I say, stick with the more simple. And introduce it to your hammer.

[Anonymous No.1581548]

>>1581486
24mbps is probably fine for two people as long as you get pretty k
Close to that.

You could order two separate 24mbps and get a ubiquiti unifi security gateway router, a unifi wifi AP or two to cover your property, and like an 8 or 16 port tp link switch.

I did similar and put everything in a 9U rack in my closet and have been very happy, just completely floored at how much better ubiquiti is over consumer router interfaces.

Anyway the important thing is it's the cheapest way to do load balancing between two connections so bnb you can get 48 mbps if you have two 24 mb links.

But you can't get 48 mbps on a single download, but you and your wife could both be pulling 24 mb at the same time.

You can get 48mbps on a single download and you can also set this up cheaper with an open source router hack, but both of those solutions are a pain in the ass.

[Anonymous No.1581556]

>>1581526
I would use the pivot miter setting at front assuming it’s like a 1x2 or something. I only use the bevel miter for when I have cut something taller than the blade can cut standing up like say something 5 inches tall.

[Anonymous No.1581601]

>>1581345
I second this. I had CXG 936D (which claimed to be 90W, but in reality it was only 60W), it was good.
Temperature control is OK, but it is nothing like T12 Hakko-based systems.

[Anonymous No.1581603]

>>1581542
I'm an electrician apprentice so I guess it's an above average amount, idk.

[Anonymous No.1581611]

>>1581603
Ok. The ratchet. Maintaining is part of the job and you would not need to hammer as electric shit isn't usually tight and rusty. One pro to another. You want comfort because carpal tunnel and all.

[Anonymous No.1581619]

What hope in hell does a homegamer without any specialist machines like a mill have to drill a hole in tungsten (not tungsten carbide mind)

I'm wanting to drill a 4mm or 5mm hole through (side to side, not lengthways thank god) a 10mm round bar. How do?

Diamond tile bits? That's the only thing i can think of...

[Anonymous No.1581628]

What toolbox is this in the picture?
From Sicario 2.

[Anonymous No.1581635]

>>1581619
cbn/diamond tipped stuff yes

but actually it won't work, you will need to use abrasives to machine it. a green wheel or similar.

[Anonymous No.1581637]

>>1581338

Thanks homie. That bottom one definitely has my attention.

[Anonymous No.1581645]

>>1581635
You mean abrasives to get a flat on the round for a surface for the drill bit to start from?
+ thanks for the cbn hint, will do some digging into that

[Anonymous No.1581648]

Is there any reason to not DIY a vaulted roof if I don't need to make any structural changes?

Just a drop ceiling and insulation in the way, no real attic. Then just slap on a coat of paint.

[Anonymous No.1581651]

>>1581645
No I mean you might actually have to have a jig grinder or a dremel with the right wheel, or just the right wheel and a high RPM spindle on a drill press or milling machine.

[Anonymous No.1581653]

>>1581651
welp, ok

Do they make small enough wheels/burrs for that?

[Anonymous No.1581673]

Oh hi, I have a butcher block I want to paint white to use as a computer desk. Should I use a primer or would something like breakthrough paint be enough? Im a complete noob and just want something that has a smooth finish. Would Danish oil or linseed oil be better?

[Anonymous No.1581676]

>>1581398
stackable tubs cost you more than you probably spent on The Fine Purchase in the first place. Suggested plastic shelving as (IDEA!) - solar panels, no (or not much) hassle with storing outside (?) - if you got a bit of garden or yard, few plastic racks, bit of tarp over the top, strap to keep the tarp on, and good is. With any luck, someone might steal them. Also, plastic racks, combinable to opitmal height (eg, 3m high ceiling, 3 x 2m racks, build into two 3m)

I bought a few plastic racks, garden ones, normal ones, never had a bother, but, non-Burger, no recommend to offer, no idea HF etc. quality. But cheap - transporting the crap be your problem 1st, stackable tubs again better here, but, cost boatload

[Anonymous No.1581679]

>>1581648
there are no joists in there? is the drop ceiling hanging from the rafters?

Also vaulted ceilings suck dick for heating efficiency, and the rafter bays need to be insulated in a way that prevents any ice damming.

[Anonymous No.1581681]

>>1581611
perfect, thanks. I'll buy it later on today

[Anonymous No.1581723]

>>1581676
transportation is a fucking bitch. I'm gonna shit shitty plastic wraps. get thick plastic tarp, staple that shit all around like fucking Dexter.

[Anonymous No.1581747]

>>1581424
>I finally found "structure kit" but it was all VEX and shit. nothing like this.
Perhaps that's because that isn't the name I gave you.
>>1581304
>strut channel or Unistrut
Just strut, not structure.
another brand is Champion Strut

[Anonymous No.1581749]

Poor carpenter starting toolset? looking to start working with wood and I wish to know what tools I need.
Already have hammer with claw, with ball, a few screwdrivers and pliers.
looking to build small things first, like boxes and such

[Anonymous No.1581763]

>>1581749
A square or some type of straight edge, nail set(punch), some type of measuring device. Some type of saw. Maybe a few chisels of various width,Utility knife. And elbow grease for the sandpaper.

[Anonymous No.1581777]

>>1581749
You need a sidestop like this if you're going to use European saws. You need the reverse of you're using japanese saws/tools. A stable fence for you to hold your wood against while cutting.

Watch a lot of videos from paul sellers and some others.

[Anonymous No.1581795]

>>1581548
Really appreciate the detailed response, I will see if the DSL ISP will allow 2 connections to the house. Otherwise, I have some other things like a passive repeater to check out.

[Anonymous No.1581800]

>>1581154
All that needs is another coat and it will look 100 times better.

[Anonymous No.1581805]

>tl;dr
Noisy neighborhood where people do small construction work at night without any worries and other random bullshit noise.

I want to take the bob widlar aproach and fight noise with noise.
does anyone know of an Aliexpress product, or similar, that is ear shattering? Ideally a naval horn, but I doubt I'll be able to find one.

[Anonymous No.1581808]

>>1581805
I'm an EE but never fussed arround with audio shit so this is vodoo for me. All I can find are stuff like pic, but I doubt that can reach 150db because wikipedia gives me 120db as enough to harm you.

[Bepperoni No.1581809]

>>1581763
You can get those Mouse type triangle detail sanders for like $20. Hell, I think recently I saw a coupon for HF’s 1/4 sheet sander going around $15.

[Anonymous No.1581864]

This is kind of basic but anyone have experience mounting a TV on tile? How do you go about drilling through the tile and reaching the studs? Do I need any special tools to do it? Pic related is the space.

[Anonymous No.1581878]

>>1581808
>electric
BORING
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rmBwCR1HVg

[Anonymous No.1581881]

>>1581864
you get a special like gritty abrasive looking diamond coated drill bits for drilling tile. otherwise the bit will wander and tile will smash.

[Anonymous No.1581885]

>>1581864
I use and like the arrowhead shaped ones.

[Anonymous No.1581966]

>>1581505
Do you mean like building a wooden box, placing a block inside the box, then pouring concrete into the mold made from the box and block of wood?

If so that won’t work. You will be able to get the oustside box off if you pry it apart but you won’t be able to get the block out.

The outer box is fine, although it would be easier to demold if you use Vaseline or some other release agent. Make sure the joints are sealed with clay or wax if you’re planning on making a watery mix.

Sand mix if fine depending on a few factors. You may want to use some acrylic additive for concrete. Also you can use PVA fibers or some similar fibers but it probably won’t be necessary. Just use half and half sand/cement with as little water/acrylic fortifier as you can to make it fluid. If you’re lost by what I’m talking about google “PVA fibers, concrete fibers, Acyrlic fortifier for concrete”. Read a little so you know what to look for and find a store near you that has it. You really shouldn’t need the fibers and fortifiers if you keep the mix dry enough. Sand mix isn’t very strong in this state but for what you’re want wanting to do it should be fine.

[Anonymous No.1581968]

>>1581505
>>1581966
As far as you’re mold like I said the outside is fine. For the inside you have a few options. You can use foam (this will work for the outside form to) and cut rigid foam sheets from a hobby store, into the dimensions you want and hot glue together to make the shape you want inside. Use a generous layer of mold release like a paste wax or Vaseline. You can also use a plastic bag and cut it to fit the foam and tap it together. You will have to destroy the inner foam box to get it out. Its what is called a waste mold. You can do the same thing with cardboard just be sure to use thick cardboard or double it up. You can pour sand in this box to add stability to it (keep it from collapsing) if need be. You can also simply get a block of foam and put in a plastic bag, tape all around it to keep its shape and add release agent.

[Anonymous No.1582042]

I need to screw those pieces of wood to the inside of this hole. The space doesn't allow me to put my driver inbetween or on an angle that works. Is there any way to screw the pieces to the sides of the opening without buying an angle driving bit? The pieces need to be removable so I can't use glue.

[Milwaukee No.1582043]

>>1581489

yea the downside is they ratchet

try doing the motion with a regular screwdriver, to me it feels akward, keep it mind you have to keep pretty good downward pressure as youre ratcheting

good luck using the ratcheting on a - or even a +

my ratcheting screw drivers spend their lives in the non ratcheting mode

[Anonymous No.1582071]

>>1581489
they suck, a lot of the time the ratchet works for the first few turns then there wont be enough resistance for it to slip and it becomes a non ratchet screwdriver

[Anonymous No.1582116]

I guess, working on this heater, and I think the screws are permanently part of the structure from all the years of heat. no question.

[Anonymous No.1582117]

>>1582116
but just moving it around seems to have fixed the wick that was stuck. and you can take it apart from the top so don't need those screws anyway. might in fact be just look like screws, screws I'd have to take another look.

[Anonymous No.1582291]

Can I go to a stone counter distributor and get a small (18" x 26") table top made cheaply from an off-cut? I want to put it on a small kitchen cart so I can rest hot pans on it. What pricing am I looking at? preferably 1" thick as not to overburden the cart

[Anonymous No.1582295]

>>1582291

The installers who cut out the hole for sinks might be more likely to have a scrap, or save the next one. And the distributor might have installers or be able to recommend nice ones.

[Anonymous No.1582340]

Can you put isobutane in R12 car air conditioner?
>inb4: don't smoke

[Anonymous No.1582356]

>>1581878
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rmBwCR1HVg
HOW

[Anonymous No.1582368]

>>1582291
It's called a trivet.

I mean that's cool I guess but you could also buy one already smoothed and with rubber feet on it for $15

[Bepperoni No.1582406]

>>1581878
Based.

Wasn’t there some qtddtot about anon with annoying neighbors? That would be incredible. Rig it with some regulator so when somebody does inevitably call the police, you can be like “Officer, it isn’t even that loud”

[Anonymous No.1582424]

>>1582295
hmm true. do installers usually have polishing gear for the edges?

>>1582368
I'll look into it but I'm sure finding a size match will be tough

[Anonymous No.1582448]

How do you organize a project and keep track of everything? In the planning stage and during the process I mean.

[Anonymous No.1582453]

>>1582448
create a trello board

[Anonymous No.1582458]

>>1582453
ah, yeah I forgot about that program
thanks anon

[Anonymous No.1582530]

>>1581805
Honestly you should just anonymously call the cops and report a noise violation. People who do that are inconsiderate and they’re not gonna listen if you try to talk to them. Most cities have a 10:00pm no-noise ordinance where you have to be quiet after that time. They can get a ticket if they are a repeat offender. Don’t be childish and make noise back, you’re just gonna piss off your other good neighbors who already hate the noise like you do. As a citizen there are laws in place to protect you from discomfort and distress, it’s ok to enforce them.

[Anonymous No.1582874]

I'm going to be building a sunroom for my mom this summer, I'd like to start early next month. I know how to build, but have only ever been an employee - I've never done all the paperwork and stuff.

I live in Oregon. How do I get started? Will I need blueprints or schematics?

>>1582448
emacs org-mode

[Anonymous No.1582940]

>>1581619
you can just drill or turn tungsten with hss or carbide, its as soft as steel

[Anonymous No.1583132]

>>1582874
Are you planning to add on to her house, or do you mean like a stand alone sun room? If it's a free standing building full of glass windows I would look up your city regulation for how big of a shed can you build without needing a permit, and then keep it under that size. If you mean like adding a enclosed patio with a bunch of windows then you will also need to look up your city regulations on what is needed to add a patio to a house. All cities have a website with this kind of info, shouldn't be too hard to find.

[Anonymous No.1583140]

>>1581154

seal that shit up with some liquid rubber basement sealer

[Anonymous No.1583158]

>>1582042
Bit ratchet, ratchet with bit sockets, pliers, or simply use lag screws and a wrench. If they need to be flush (countersunk) you can drive them in as deep as possible without going through and then see if your tool will fit. Also it may be easier to do 1 side first if there's room for it. You could try using countersunk machine screws with a nut on the outside to fasten them and something to keep them from turning on the inside if they need to be flush, or carriage bolts.

Or just screw from the outside if possible.

[Anonymous No.1583618]

What's the best solution for doing carpentry or spray painting in your apartment and keeping it clean? Tarp tent? I have a study that I'd like to be able to quickly convert to do things one would normally do in a garage

[Anonymous No.1583621]

How far can I shoot kitchen exhaust using ducts and fans? Searing any meat on my stove will fill the kitchen with smoke/steam, I'd love to be able to temporarily hook a duct to the extractor and shoot the exhaust out a window 20ft away. Is this at all practical? I assume I'd have to throw away the ducts yearly or so

[Anonymous No.1583633]

What hand tools would you use to remove the bulk of wood from stock?
I'm talking about a quarter inch of material from a "flat" tabletop.

[Anonymous No.1583639]

>>1583633
A quarter inch is nasty with hand tools.

It's a lot to plane off but sawing and anything else I can think of would probably ruin the surface.

You would have cut it better and built it around any major problems in the wood to begin with. As it is described all I can think of is planning it down.

If you have several planes or irons to go around, you could regrind one to have a convex tip instead of flat, this let you make a more aggressive cut and remove more material. You will have to go back over with a flat plane though.

[Anonymous No.1583650]

>>1583639
Well shit
planes are expensive, was hoping carvers would have something handy

[Anonymous No.1583668]

Has anyone used a special wrench or tool to unscrew a tamper proof shower head? Ive read that some people use collet wrenchs to unscrew it but cant figure out what size to order, pliers and vice grips havent worked even with cloth and leather to grip

[Anonymous No.1583670]

>>1583668
Kek.

[Anonymous No.1583673]

>>1583670
w-what

[Bepperoni No.1583680]

>>1583668
What the hell do you mean tamper proof shower head?

[Anonymous No.1583681]

>>1583673

[Anonymous No.1583686]

>>1583680
its a water conservation fixture with a flow restricter in the pipe and a special showerhead that cant be unscrewed at will and designed so you need a special included wrench type tool to unscrew it, it looks like a small wrench of some sort could work but would have to be incredibly small since the nut/bolt/w/e is like 9mm in diameter and normal wrenches wont fit it tightly enough to work, otherwise anyone could easily replace it and remove the flow restricter

>>1583681
this is literally designed so you cant twist it off at all, specifically because i live in a large apartment block with water conservation fixtures on everything

[Bepperoni No.1583689]

>>1583686
So you need one of those flat wrenches like pic related?

So measure it and order one. I have some for bicycles, they’re pedal wrenches because a full size wrench won’t fit most of the time.

[Anonymous No.1583708]

>>1583689
>working with bikes
>every single goddamn part needs 4 specific tools to service
reee

[Bepperoni No.1583709]

What is the process for an 18V NiCd charger? If I were to nigger rig half an old DeWalt pack and stick it full of Li-Ions, would I be able to stick the thing on the old charger if I timed it or watched the voltage?

I could start probing and google but I’m already here and I know people have done it but how are how are you charging them?

[Bepperoni No.1583710]

>>1583708
Meh, so many things are like that, especially when you’re getting to higher end models. The cheap models just need a basic tool kit, but higher end bicycles and other things are going to be built with an emphasis on performance, and if that means you need a couple special tools, so be it.

In all my years of BMX riding and breaking parts, basically everything could be done with a basic tool kit. Chain breaker was maybe the only thing I had that wouldn’t come with a mechanic’s set, and even that can be done with a flathead scewdriver and hammer or just use master links.

[Anonymous No.1583728]

what tool should I get to press these terminals? crushing them with pliers does not work

[Anonymous No.1583735]

>>1581083
what's the best soldering station (cmd boards and pcb) considering price, durability and performance?

[Anonymous No.1583744]

>>1583710
For HIGH PERFORMANCE REASONS you need to buy a new cassette tool with ONE MORE spline. They're retards if they can't standardise everything, they just don't want to.

[Anonymous No.1583755]

>>1583728
crimper. it will do more thn flatten it, it will force the two halves to cut down into the wire.
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/working-with-wire/how-to-crimp-an-electrical-connector

[Anonymous No.1583756]

how hard do you need to pull on a 1/2 ton arbor press to put on 500 lbs of pressure?

Assuming I used this press which has 32:1 ratio.. I would need 15 lbs of pressure to lever to apply 500 lbs to the die. Is this correct?

[Milwaukee No.1583767]

>>1583756

how long is the lever

assuming a 1' lever and youre taking in ft lbs;

15 lbs on a 1' lever = 15ft lbs x 32 = 500 ft lbs

double that for a 2' lever and so on

[Anonymous No.1583846]

>>1583728
If you are doing this industrially >>1583755
Isnt suitable because you wont have consistent enough crimps, and you will have carpal tunnel syndrome.

You will need a hydraulic or electric set

[Anonymous No.1584140]

What connectors are these?

It's a barr.io board for working with Pump it Up arcade type machines. I asked the seller what it was, no reply yet, there's a USB Type C for size reference in the pic. The reason why I don't have the rest of the wires/connectors is that I'm building my pad from scratch. The grey thing is just a momentary switch, normally open, simple on/off (not a pressure sensor). The switch connector is molex (I think?).

[Anonymous No.1584195]

>>1581179
>
1st- snug the flat face of the knife up against the square so it rides flush alongside it. bevel face always goes on the outside. 2nd- use a light touch; if you have to press down hard to get it to leave a mark in the wood, it's not sharp enough. 3rd- knives are for marking cross cuts. layout rip cuts with an awl instead - it'll follow the square instead of trying to follow the grain

>
1st- add a second clamp. single clamp creates a pivot point; pair of clamps creates resistance. 2nd- add a sacrificial layer: sandwich your workpiece between the bench and a bit of scrap wood. face will be protected from marring. force will be spread over a wider surface area (much like what washers do for bolts)

>
a few light-ish taps to get it started, then a few harder driving blows once you can take your fingers out of the way. if you tend to go wonky: slight sweeping in your downward motion so it glances off the head can provide enough lateral nudging to maintain alignment

>
needs crossbracing so moar boards. likely also some pva glue and/or brackets and/or screws; you can into freestanding structural integrity with simple butt joints but they tend to need more reinforced fastening than nails alone can offer. post pics?
>failing to design simple things to practice on that will be useful and will not collapse is killing my drive
make a bench hook. then a strop (& use it with impunity; the importance of sharp tools really can't be overstated). then a shooting board.

>
mitre box rn is a hindrance to you. think of them as smol assistance to proper technique, not a shortcut to it. practice per https://youtu.be/pg9F43e7few and git gud. workbench is solidly seated and sturdy af with zero wobble, right? if no, top priority is to correct that

>
get the stone out and resharpen all your plane blades. keep your strop handy thereafter. hard, dense, full of silica = dulls your tools remarkably quickly and fugs your lungs hard. put the rasp away. strop often. expect slow going.

[Anonymous No.1584196]

>>20611926
send help, please!

[Anonymous No.1584197]

>>1584196
ok, I don't remember how to link threads from other boards but here's my thread on /o/
>>>>/o/20611926

[Anonymous No.1584202]

whats the best source for wood? i got some shitty 2x4s from home depot and i feel like i got jewed hard because i dont know any better.

[Anonymous No.1584204]

>>1584202
There is none. Good wood is fucking expensive.

If you're okay with particle board you can drive around and pickup stuff people have left on the side of the road for garbage.

You might find a local cabinet shop on craigslist offering offcuts for free. They will be pretty small.

2x4 is cheap lumber. HD only stocks the worst shot. Find a local lumberyard, they will have better wood to pick from

[Anonymous No.1584206]

>>1584204
thanks anon. will lumberyards usually have better prices?

[Anonymous No.1584214]

>>1584206
Yes, actually

[Anonymous No.1584216]

>>1583621
>How far can I shoot kitchen exhaust

20 ft is easy. stick a bunch of these in series, in either plastic or aluminum. they're usually 4 inches wide, but i've also seen some around 8 inches. some 12mm computer fans are very strong and can be placed at the far end for sucking. there are also computer-like fans that work at 120V and are very strong, (and noisy).

[Anonymous No.1584228]

>>1583689
thanks those look like they would fit, need to find a bike repair shop nearby now.

[Milwaukee No.1584371]

>>1584197

you ordered that entire assembly?

if so, the two ball-joint ends are adjustable and they set your toe-in/toe out. pretty important that you set the new one to the exact same as the old one. mark it, count the number of exposed threads (do this for both sides) whatever you gotta do. or your shit will be all fucked up. to adjust it looks like theres just a jam nut you loosen then the entire end ball-joint housing spins. just pit the nut on it, put the box end of your wrench on it and spin them until the same amount of threads are showing as on the old one.

as for purging, well its hydraulic so youre going to drain off at least half your oil so just replace fill up power steering pump reservoir until the dipstick says its good. keep filling until it stops lowering, then all the air is out. if your pump whines it still has air in it. gl. oh and have fun getting those ball joints out theyre a tapered fit and tight as fuck. i usually just cut em with a torch.

[Anonymous No.1584576]

>any 420 growing expert here?

I'm total beginner.
I'm trying to grow some plants. And I'm doing it the most simple way. Plant it, water it down.
Well some plants (2 out 5) are developing this "sunburned" like skin. Is it light burn or not enough N? What should I do?
In a beggining I decrease amount of water because I thought that is an issue.
I water every 3 days because I watered down until water was leaking from pots. Now I'm watering less amount of water every 2 - 1.5 days.
Yeah. I know they are stretchy because they need/want more light. I started it too early this year. So I added more light sources as a support to sun.
And all of them are LEDs.
When temperature will be above 15°C in night I'm gonna let them sit outside till they bloom.

[Anonymous No.1584584]

>>1584216
>So
i work in construction and when we normaly do in cases where the extractor fan is really long and can be hidden we use a flex pipe like no 1 and attach it to a 4inch waste pipe till it comes tot he end of the building and put a vent cover over it

[Anonymous No.1584596]

>>1583767
thanks. looking at actual arbor presses it seems like 16:1 is more common. so a 1 ton arbor press from HF -you'd need to put 125 lbs pressure to actually reach a ton. Very doable, but definitely not something you want to do all day

[Anonymous No.1584597]

,

[Anonymous No.1584630]

>>1584576
Humboldt weed farmer here.

Too much light will burn your new plants. We grow seedlings under t5 fluorescent bulbs.

Keep the soil moist with pH corrected water.
Don’t touch it so much, let the plant do it’s thing.

If you reply and aren’t a cunt I will drop more knowledge on you

[Anonymous No.1584634]

>>1584630

I did pH test. But I couldn't really read out information. I'm using tap water. In next days I'm going to test our water in well.

If you are interested in my "whatthefuck grow space" made only out of things that I found at my house I can contribute. It looks nasty.

[Anonymous No.1584636]

>>1584630
>>1584634
forgot to post img

[Anonymous No.1584665]

>>1584634
Do you dechlorinate the water?
Strips suck for ph testing, but you want 6.5-6.8

And sure, post your shit.
I ran a small farm last year, about 250 plants growing outdoor full term, came out just under 1000 lbs at harvest.

You shouldn’t be trying to get flower from those seedlings. Learn to make clones, and use your seedlings for clones.

Lots of small plants > a few. If you want to grow 3 full size plants, you should have 10-15 clones to pick and choose from.

Make sure your plants are getting 16 hours of light a day and in total darkness for the rest

[Anonymous No.1584669]

>>1584636
Forgot to add that your water looks super basic in the pic, the 3rd tester is bright red indicating 8+ ph.

Lemon juice works well as a ph downer.

[Anonymous No.1584761]

The tip of my pen sticks out a little even when I click it down, is it the spring?

[Anonymous No.1584819]

>>1584761
>is it the spring?
can you push it back in with your finger?
if no, it's not the spring
if yes, it could be the spring

[Anonymous No.1584847]

They are selling my grandparent's house soon and there is some stuff there that needs to be stored until the house is sold. I can't store it at my apartment. Does anyone know how I can cheaply store this stuff?
Standup freezer
Studio piano
Washer and drier
Loveseat
2 chairs
An ac unit
Medium-large Flatscreen tv and cabinet
Several boxes
Possibly more

[Anonymous No.1584856]

[Anonymous No.1584862]

>>1584856
ive stumbled across a weird problem. i just installed a bidet in pic related and it works great and all but the toilet wont stop running now. so under the yellow thing is the float that turns the flow on and off. it basically wont rise with the water as it fills the tank. how this wasnt a problem before i have no idea but i check the other floats on the toilets in the house and they glide effortlessly. my just seems like its stuck. any ideas how to get it moving? and it doesnt seems to have anything to do with how loose or tight that top screw is that adjusts length of the arm.

[Anonymous No.1584874]

>>1584856
>>1584862
herp. figured it out. turns out i rotated that entire fixture when installing/tightening the valve on the outside so the float is rubbing against the wall. thanks anyways /diy/

[Anonymous No.1584876]

>>1584874
>thanks anyways /diy/
You're welcome.
Glad I could help.<div class="like-perk-cnt">&#x2714;&#xFE0F;</div>

[Anonymous No.1585160]

I bought a house that was built only a couple years ago. It has cat5e jacks everywhere but I have no idea where they terminate. The previous owners don't have a clue. Is pic related likely it? It's in the closet on the main floor. I still need to unpack tools so I haven't opened it yet but I got a guy from the local internet provider coming to set up service. I want to have at least some semblance of an idea on where all the boxes and shit should go.

[Anonymous No.1585162]

>>1584665
>You shouldn’t be trying to get flower from those seedlings. Learn to make clones.
Ok.

>>1584669
>your water looks super basic
Is that good thing?
I can't really tell anything out that test anyway so I'm gonna find some digital tester.

I should kinda introduce spirit behind my effort to grow it. Everything that I'm using right now must cost 0.00€ ($0.00; ¥0.00). So basicaly anything from my house or given by somebody (friends, co-worker) or just stolen (things like those plastic cups).
Will post few stages.

[Anonymous No.1585166]

>>1585162
BEGINNING
LIDL Tools mostly.

Growings pots were given.
Most of plastic things on table were stolen.
Bag of some soil that I found at warehouse.

[Anonymous No.1585170]

>>1585166
1st GEN technology around

[Anonymous No.1585171]

>>1585170
Sometimes real sun

[Anonymous No.1585172]

>>1585171
LIGHT Upgrade
+7,5W of warm white LED bulb but in this stageI need to get something with colder color. More blue spectrum?

[Anonymous No.1585176]

>>1585172
WALLS around Upgrade
After that I put another 7,5W LED warm white.
Then remove it.

This stage are waiting for Arduino with timer and relay board. And after that maybe some sensors. I do have ESP32. Maybe I will try to learn micropython finaly.

[HumboldtWeedBro No.1585184]

>>1585162
Basic is bad. Basic=ph >7
Acidic = ph <7
You need to add an acid to get to a ph of 6.5-6.8
Lemon juice and vinegar are easy and accessible.

Lose the arduino shit tho, more problem than its worth. Get a decent digital outlet timer, or do it manually.

I’m super serious about this, if your plants flower early because the light timing fails you are basically fucked.

[HumboldtWeedBro No.1585188]

>>1585184
Forgot to add I love the concept, but at this point you really need at least one of these seedling to grow into a healthy mom.

Once you have a mom that can make clones, you have so much more room to experiment and fail.

The 16 hour light cycle is critical. I would not leave them in the sun until you have like 3 or 4 fan leaves of 9cm. Seedlings grow in shaded areas in nature, so your indoor lighting with one or two bulbs is actually better than full sun.

For your next step, you need to locate:
A source of mature compost
A spray bottle
A fabric growing pot, around 5 gallons size

[Anonymous No.1585196]

can someone please tell me the downsides,caveats, or things i need to be aware of with cobb, rammed earth, strawbale, straw and clay, and earthship style builds, if you know anything about turf housing would be greatful too.
basically looking for downsides to sustainable, or earthen based construction.

[Anonymous No.1585202]

>>1585160
Yes that's almost certainly it.

Fyi those boxes are fucking horrible.
Theres not enough room to terminate the wires on anything sensible. You end up with a rats nest of your few working services in there.

Look up 2-9 unit wall mount racks. Much nicer. You can terminate all your Jack's onto keystone, including your coax and plug them in. Get a coax splitter, make short cables for that, now you got a splitter wired into your panel too.

[Anonymous No.1585207]

>>1585184
>vinega
Roger. Photo.
>arduino
Ok sadface.jpg
>16 hour light cycle
Why? 24 are no good? They need sleep time?
Those are only seeds that I know their genetics.
https://www.royalqueenseeds.cz/samonakvetaci-semena-konopi/125-northern-light-automatic.html
Other are given or gathered from not so good weed from around my are.
Can you recommend some strains?

>compost
We do have composter at our backyard. Gonna check tomorrow.
>spray bottle
I do have one. But it is more harsh rain spray then nice misty spray.
>fabric growing pot
I have some.

[Anonymous No.1585287]

is it legal to build a shape charge to kill gophers using the concussive force? Or do I need to get a A.T.F.E. agent on-site to oversee things? I'm in the United States of America, btw.

[Anonymous No.1585295]

>>1585202
Thanks Anon. Dug out a screw driver and opened it up. You weren't kidding about the mess.

I'm totally clueless about what I'm looking at though. Looks like the black wires are coaxial but where the fuck would I plug all those in. And I don't know why I have both the blue and white wires to each room. White are cat 6, dunno about the blue but they both seem to have the same wires inside of them. I'm going to have to buy a switch but I hope I don't have to plug both the white and blue wires in.

[Anonymous No.1585298]

>>1585295
Forgot pic

[Anonymous No.1585304]

Probably a much smaller scale than it seems like most projects on here are, but I want to make my own leather journal. I've done it before but I have to bind individual pages and it's a whole thing, I'd like to just make it a 3 ring binder sort of thing, but where do I get those mechanisms? I'm kinda impatient so I'd rather get it at a store if possible but I cant even find a proper name for them. What are they called, and where can I get them?

[Anonymous No.1585308]

Hey /diy/, I'm wondering if it would be better to make a folding briefcase-style box from wood/screws/glue + hinges/latch, or if I should just buy a cheap poker chip set and remove the foam.

The thing is, it's going to need to transport sand without leaking. Yes, sand. Like playground/fine grain sand.

Thoughts?

[Bepperoni No.1585311]

>>1585308
How much woodworking have you done? Do you have the equipment to make it all square and tight so it won’t leak the drugs?

[HumboldtWeedBro No.1585312]

>>1585207
That looks much better

>sleep time
Yes, darkness aids photosynthesis (weird I know)

>those seeds
They are auto flowers, which are ok but not really the best. More for winter grows

Look for OG kush and Girl Scout Cookie (GSC).

Those two strains are good for beginners, very popular, high yielding, hardy plants

You can get shit weed from good genetics, so don’t count out your others.

Get a nice misty spray bottle.
I know a dynamite foliage spray blend when the plants are bigger.

[HumboldtWeedBro No.1585313]

>>1585287
Buy tannerite at a gun store and shoot it with a high caliber rifle

[Anonymous No.1585317]

>>1585311
Basic woodworking. I have basic shit that will suffice: Wood glue + screws. Actually I was wondering if you can use wood glue as "caulking" to line the edges where perpendicular boards meet?

But yeah, I can build it pretty simply. I guess the question is just... is it worth it. Supplies will cost around the same as a cheap poker box anyhow.

The mobile sandbox is actually for geomancy, so that I can bring it around.

[Bepperoni No.1585333]

/ohm/ is dead for the time being, so what exactly do pic related do? One of these will work for little solar panels so they don’t drain the battery if there isn’t enough light, right?

>>1585317
It’s only worth it if you want to build something. It’s like changing your own oil when you can go to the Jiffy Jewb for $25.

[Anonymous No.1585339]

>>1581114
build "poor shelves" with cheap wood or wood that you have laying around. Depends on the weight but you shouldn't risk too much or you would lose your shekels

[Bepperoni No.1585348]

>>1585333
Also with this...

The parallel cells balance themselves? But the cells in series need the balancing board?

[Anonymous No.1585349]

>>1585295
If the white are cat6, they are probably wired to rj45
If the blue are cat5 they are probably wired to rj11 (phone jacks)

Actually that's a little better than I expected. Google what the width of a switch rack is. Those screws on the outside might line up with that, and you could get a shallow 24 port keystone patch panel. Get enough rj45 keystones for all your cat5 and cat5 and get enough coaxial f keystones for your coax.

Those all get wired into the patch panel and never touched again. When you want to connect a phone line or cable or computer you run a jumper from the switch or phone demarc to the jack you have on the patch panel

You could also get a 2u vertical rack (if that fits)
And then get a tplink rack mount switch and a rack mount power strip.

Or you could leave it and save your money. I spent like $500 and I already have the tools.

Unless you actually have several computers theres almost no need

[Anonymous No.1585351]

>>1585349
Oh, also make sure you buy special narrow keystone rj45 Jack's that can be mounted side by side, so you dont get messed up spacing like me

[Anonymous No.1585356]

>>1585287
>kill gophers using the concussive force?

[Anonymous No.1585358]

>>1585308
ideally the sand would go in a bag?
you could probably get a nice second hand peli case even for the cost you will waste building it.

[Anonymous No.1585359]

>>1585312
>HumboldtWeedBro
are you still lurking? do you have experience with indoor grow ops? I'd like to bounce an idea off of you if you're interested

[Anonymous No.1585363]

>>1585356
why kill moles? they don't do anything.

[Anonymous No.1585365]

>>1584195
Thank you!
For 1 I was pushing too hard. Not because it was dull, just not knowing how much force is needed. I only learned to not try to "scrape" things into sandpaper or sharpening stones recently as well. I wish some people would demonstrate how much force something takes using a kitchen scale sometimes instead of just "light pressure" or "medium pressure."

I don't have a proper non-wobbly workbench besides a black and decker workmate yet so I should probably make that instead of being "It's fine" with my sheet-on-sawhorses. Looking at the stuff I built again, you made me realize I don't have any crossbracing and was relying on diagonally-spaced nails to hold it straight.

[Anonymous No.1585367]

I have this 12v power supply (pic related) and I want to make it a variable 3-12v supply, preferably with an LCD display indicating the current voltage. Is there a pre-built board I can wire the 12v into or am I going to need to build something custom?

[Bepperoni No.1585372]

>>1585367
Pic related was like $15 on Amazon. I’m sure way cheaper direct from China. It’s not as accurate as a real bench power supply but it’s pretty close.

[Bepperoni No.1585374]

>>1585367
>>1585372
They have ones capable of higher current for a few bucks more. And another company sells them in a plastic case if you want that.

[Anonymous No.1585381]

Alright, I've got a super fucking loud faucet, and the way this house is set up means using the faucet basically wakes the fucking dead we bury in the crawlspace.
It sounds like the sound comes from lower in the faucet itself, or in the valve. Is this from turbulence? Could I ever get a faucet set up where it's basically just the sound of water flowing out of it? How do I do that?

[Anonymous No.1585394]

>>1585381
To clarify, when the water is running, there's a loud water-flowing-through-valve kind of noise. I've been in newer houses and businesses that don't have that noise come on at all when you turn on the faucet, and they instead are simply silent, other than the noise introduced by the water hitting the sink. I would prefer to have that instead of a constant hissing.
The faucet itself is a single armature type--one where you just lift the bastard and then tilt it to determine temperature.

[Anonymous No.1585416]

>>1585333
>/ohm/ is dead for the time being, so what exactly do pic related do?

/ohm/ isnt dead, but the asshole that makes a new thread wont do so even after it reaches the bump limit, coz hes a moron. as for diodes, they're one-way valves for electricity, so energy can flow from the solar panels when it's bright, but not backwards when it's dark.

> But the cells in series need the balancing board?

correct. but if the cells are all identical and were used together since the factory, then you can get away without a balancing board.

[Anonymous No.1585418]

Lock ring meme or brazing?
Can I braze a tiny line on fridge using butane torch (no oxygen)?

[Anonymous No.1585439]

>>1585418
>Can I braze a tiny line on fridge using butane torch (no oxygen)?
>>1584675

[Anonymous No.1585449]

>>1585439
So pic related might work?

[Anonymous No.1585476]

>>1585349
>>1585351
Meant to respond a lot earlier. Thanks for the advice man. I'll need to get a switch and those keystones to get everything organized but it's good to know how to start on it

[HumboldtWeedBro No.1585501]

>>1585359
Do it brah

[Anonymous No.1585502]

Is there any way to splice a 6 pin LEMO to a more usable platform?
I have a pair of SORDINs that I'd like to use with my phone for yard work and Baofeng for other work

[Anonymous No.1585532]

>>1585501
thanks for the reply. As you'll see, I'm obviously not an experienced grower, an engineer, or a graphic artist, so I hope I can convey this in a way that makes sense.

The idea boils down to sliding shelves like the top section of this attached image. Each shelf would have a recirculating deep water culture circuit on it. In the top portion of the image there are three shelves which might work for another plant that doesn't require much height, or for clones/seedlings. For a cannabis grow room a shelf would have only one tier, with only one RDWC circuit. Shelf length and the number of baskets that each shelf can hold depends on the structural integrity of the shelf, and the power of the water pump controlling the flow of water.

The bottom section is a bird's eye view of a grow room and the connected reservoir room, with the reservoir room being the top "box". The shelves glide along the track system underneath the shelves. This means that for any given grow room area, you only need one walkway's width of space (along with a main walkway, depicted at the bottom of the "grow room" square) - the rest can be plants. The input/output water tubing would have enough slack so that the shelves can move freely on the tracks while the reservoir tanks would remain stationary. You could easily integrate a Screen/Sea of Green on each shelf. Fans and air circulation would have to be factored into the design.

Other plants could have multiple tiers of RDWC circuits per shelf for maximum efficiency with vertical farming, though at an industrial scale you would need motors to move the shelves and safety features to prevent the shelves from tipping over while in motion.

I've spent years playing with this idea but I never had a way to present this idea to an experienced grower to find out if it's a valid idea. For a time I thought about patenting this idea, but it's not really something that can be patented - it's only a technique, not an invention.

[Anonymous No.1585533]

>>1585532
Now I would be satisfied enough just to see the idea be implemented or expanded upon by someone who has the resources and vision to improve upon it. I think a sliding rack system like that could help future growers be as efficient as possible in terms of growing area. Vertical farming is already extremely profitable and is seen by many to be the future of industrial farming. I think having movable racks would take indoor growing to another level, so to speak.

To everyone: feel free to shit on this idea and pick it apart, or to build upon it. Any sort of criticism can hopefully help a person find a way to improve this design.

[Anonymous No.1585574]

>>1585532
I was too focused on explaining my idea that I forgot to ask you some specific questions. Would something like this be feasible? Having that many plants that close together be an issue (assuming that each plant has 1 square meter of space for the sea/screen of green)? What are some other issues that you see with this design? Is there anything you need clarified?

I wanted to incorporate a system like this to grow industrial hemp for cbd but I don't have the capitol or credit to start a business. I'll continue to look into options for new businesses/farms to see if there's any way I can make it happen, and hopefully, if I get enough feedback, I can continue to make improvements on this design at the same time.

Thanks in advance for any input or criticism you have, and thanks for your time.

[Anonymous No.1585637]

>>1585449
I doubt that would provide enough heat to hard solder which is preferred.
If you used soft solder (lead/tin or unleaded) they 'may' be enough.
In either case, the system should be filled with nitrogen to prevent oxidizing inside the line while soldering.
If not done you run the high risk of the oxidation flaking off and clogging the filter or the capillary tube.
The system then needs to be pulled to a vacuum before adding refrigerant.
If you don't have the tools or knowledge why are you doing this?
I ask because you haven't given a lot of information about it.

[HumboldtWeedBro No.1585718]

>>1585532
I like the concept.
As an engineer and grower, it’s a good idea, but there are some kinks to be worked out.

Those shelves seem pretty short for full grown plants- I would use two shelves instead of 3, and then led lighting above each plant because traditional lighting will burn them.

For spacing issues, you can use less plants and train them to take up the space, or fill the entire shelf with tiny, one cola plants.

With everything packed so tight and efficient, you really need to have heat, humidity, and airflow controlled really well. You may need to add co2 as well.
Powdery mildew will set in with bad airflow.

It’s a decent idea, but will require some trial and error.
You can test by recreating one shelf, and growing some plants in it.

Personally, I like your idea better for a nursery, filling the shelves with clone/seedling trays since they don’t need much room.
However, you probably can’t make use of over 9000 clones haha. They sell for 5 to 10 bucks here

[Anonymous No.1585786]

>>1582340
I've never tried this but you're not supposed to. Of course, you're also not supposed to put r134 in an r12 system without converting it and I did anyway and it works great in my 88 bronco (supposedly it's harder on the compressor, and wears things out prematurely, I've only had it for 3 years now so don't know). What really matters is at what pressures will it go from vapor to liquid and back, if they're close and you don't give a fuck, give it a shot and let me know if anything gets destroyed. I'm genuinely curious.

[Anonymous No.1585791]

>>1584371
>cut em with a torch
Everything else you said sounds good but you what? Just hit the spindle where it goes in with a hammer a few times. I live in the rust belt and have never had an issue with them

[Anonymous No.1585806]

>>1585287
Am I the only one?
Also this
https://youtu.be/FEagupCF8gY

[Anonymous No.1585836]

>>1585718
thanks for the input man, I appreciate it more than you realize

[Anonymous No.1585853]

What do you call this thing? My dad has one of these to control the lights in his birdhouse, but some buttons don't work anymore, and I was wondering if there are any cheaper alternatives.

http://www.besserelektronik.it/programmatori-luci/11-gold-star.html

[Anonymous No.1585878]

>>1585806
No you're not, but I gave up pre-1995 references. Millennials and zoomers don't tend to get them, and I'm thinking they wouldn't admit it if they did. But yes Anon, my first thought when I read that post was:

>It's in the hole! It's in the hole!

[Anonymous No.1585888]

>>1585312
I'm back.
I had no time to work around my jungle. Haha.

>organic
I did find composter (Is that right word for that? English isn't my native language) and it was full. Is that way to analyze it so I can know how much N-P-K is there?
>timer
Timer is on the way.
>seeds
I did find source of those seeds that you mention. But I feel like using those bag seeds just fits for my purpose.
>spray
Still in progress.

Also thanks for information. Plants are loosing those sunburn marks. I'm not really sure why. I did two thing is same time. I'm giving them less intense light and that "vinegar water".
I think its >water because I saw even small plants under very hefty amount of light without any problems. But wrong pH can results problems with nutrition (is that right word? I mean N-P-K, minerals, etc.).

[Anonymous No.1585890]

There's one section of my yard where grass doesn't grow very well. It's in the north shade of my house, so not a lot of sun. It's damp most of the winter and takes a long time to dry after rain, but it gets extremely dry and dusty in the summer between rains.

Any suggestions on types of grass that might do well in this spot and how to care for it? I live in eastern Nebraska if that helps.

[Anonymous No.1585903]

>>1582340
>Can you put isobutane in R12 car air conditioner?
~20 years ago a company in Texas was selling an R-12 replacement HC12
My friend had a car lot at the time and used it to get the AC working on the used cars he sold.
It was an isobutane/propane mix.
He didn't have any problems with it.

>The ideal mixture is 79% propane and 21% isobutane
Here is a link to a guy who explains how to make your own mix.
http://www.possumliving.com/2012/08/propane-refrigerant-for-automotive-air.html

[HumboldtWeedBro No.1585921]

>>1585888
>compost
If it’s black and granular, it’s mature enough.
Assume it’s N heavy, and it can be your veg stage fertilizer.

If you want to be proactive start a separate bloom compost with kelp/seaweed.

>plants
Nice. They don’t need too much light, and you are pretty much correct on the pH.

pH tends to look like nutrition problems because it prevents the plant from up taking nutrients.

Always check your pH if you see nutrient deficiencies. I have seen a bunch of noobs dump more fertilizer on without checking and then the plant looks like it is both over and underfed. Complete shitshow

[Anonymous No.1585988]

The contractor that paved my driveway planned to put in an asphalt ramp but ditched out after pouring the concrete. I've called him a few times and he has put me off and at this point it's probably easier to just figure out a solution myself instead of pursuing him further. I couldn't find anything related to pouring asphalt that didn't require professional level tools for much larger projects. The only other options I could find online were pre-made ramps that wouldn't fit or shitty plastic alternatives.

It needs to fill a space at least 15 feet wide and about 6 inches long. Though, looking at some of the neighbor's jobs, it seems like it is standard top pour over the top of the edge of the concrete and make it about two feet long. I wouldn't be surprised if you can get asphalt at home depot, but I wouldn't know the best way to heat it or pack it down for something this scale.

[Anonymous No.1585995]

>>1585988
What you can buy at HD (and what the contractor almost certainly was going to use) is cold pack, and it doesnt need a heater. It also doesnt last.

A steel plate would be a lot better, but you should bolt it down so a scrapper doesn't drive off with it

[Anonymous No.1586002]

How do I get rid of residue that's essentially been baked by the sun? I've tried rubbing alcohol, goo gone, vegetable oil, and windex.

[Anonymous No.1586004]

>>1586002
>on glass
razor blade

[Anonymous No.1586005]

>>1581083

[Anonymous No.1586011]

>>1585878
But anon, I was born in 93, and all my friends would have gotten the references, especially koth. Although koth might be because I basically forced it on em

[Anonymous No.1586012]

>>1586004
w-will that scratch my glass?

[Anonymous No.1586019]

>>1585995
I'll definitely look into coldpack and that is probably what I'll do mostly because I'm trying to seal the edge rather than make a ramp. Since you mentioned scrapers though, I went out and checked , and I realized that the concrete goes all the way up until the street. We get snowplows coming through every year and I can very easily see them catching anything I put down.

[Anonymous No.1586035]

>>1586012
No, glass is much harder than your razor blade.

You could try an acidic cleaner like clr but razor blade is best

[Anonymous No.1586038]

>>1586019
I meant these guys if you went with a steel plate, but yeah that too.

[Anonymous No.1586042]

Have some spare glass ceramic fiber foam from a project. 1 in thick.
Was thinking of using it between my exhaust manifold and the metal heat shield to stop it from rattling. My main questions are will it be resistant enough and will it compress down at all?

[Anonymous No.1586076]

i bought a house and the living room / bedrooms arent grounded. im gonna try to run a copper wire from my living room outlet (copmuter / monitor) to my cold water copper pipe. im not sure i have a specific question, i just wanted to type this out and see who responds.

i hope it's not gonna be hell, i only have to try fishing the wire about 10 feet horizontally across my air trap / "attic" crawl space (forgot the term) and 8 feet down to the outlet. i dont wanna die.

[Anonymous No.1586080]

>>1585890
fescue

[Anonymous No.1586100]

>>1586076
Your water pipes are NOT a ground source. Your water pipes are grounded, but that's to keep you from killing yourself in the tub.

You need to run your wire all the way back to your main panel where your main ground/neutral bond is. This is literally the only way to ground your outlet. Okay you could also run a whole new cable and that would really be better.

[Milwaukee No.1586188]

>>1585791

one of the things i work on are big kenworth t800 box trucks with plows/underbodys/sanders. they spread the salt-sand out on the highways here in the winter. they get ravaged. i might be able to get them off with a hammer but why bother when youre replacing them. i use one for many things steering related. i also cut out pickup balljoints. fight me.

your post gives me the impression:

a) >youve never used a torch
b) >you would make a hot mess if you tried to cut ball joints
c) >you havent encountered a stubborn ball joint on anything bigger than your rice cooker civic

if this is the case, why even bother questioning?

[Milwaukee No.1586189]

>>1585791

the few taps on the side of the knuckle where the balljoint slides in trick only gets you so far

[Milwaukee No.1586190]

>>1585791

one of the things i work on are big kenworth t800 box trucks with plows/underbodys/sanders. they spread the salt-sand out on the highways here in the winter. they get ravaged. i might be able to get them off with a hammer but why bother when youre replacing them. i use one for many things steering related. i also cut out pickup balljoints. fight me. you just cut them off flush first, then heat top down real good and pop a hole, maybe round it out if youre not shite with a torch.

this makes the male taper heat up, try to expand, be unable due to being held tightly by the female taper of the knuckled, so it compresses on itself and when it cools down it will shrink and basically fall out. no damage to the female taper. this is a handy trick for all kinds of things; bearing races, liners, stuck slack adjusters, etc

your post gives me the impression:

>youve never used a torch
>you would make a hot mess if you tried to cut ball joints
>you havent encountered a stubborn ball joint on anything not a toyota tercel

my apologies you were genuinely curious and not trying to be an asshat

[Anonymous No.1586201]

Anyone know where I can get LEDs like these in Britain that don't cost a shitton? There's a bunch with the pins bent but I'm looking for the straight pins.

As for type it seems to have some leeway that I'm too much of an electronics nub to be sure about. I'm following a guy's guide to fix some keyboard LEDS. He mentions these are the "correct" ones:
https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/qt-brightek-qtb/QBLP677R-RGB/1516-1282-1-ND/7567403

But he uses cheap 3528 LEDs from ebay and they work fine, other than unbending the pins taking more time than the rest of the work combined.

[Anonymous No.1586235]

>>1581470
probably standard, wire brush it, it'll be fine mate.

[Anonymous No.1586289]

>>1586002
This>>1586004
And if there's still spots vinegar.

[Anonymous No.1586290]

>>1586012
Make sure it's a sharp blade. If you drop the blade on concrete for example it can put a bur in the blade that can scratch the glass. A sharp blade will never

[Anonymous No.1586291]

>>1586042
Just remove the heat shield, you'll never notice a difference. If it bothers you anyway, buy some manifold wrap shit and wrap it in that.

[Anonymous No.1586293]

>>1586190
>>1586189
I use the torch all the time actually. Absolutely love using it. I've just never needed to for a tie rod end. If you're replacing it anyway sure but again I've never needed to. I work on plow trucks too, my dad's, my own, a brothers, and about 10 friends.
Don't get me wrong, I know it'll work, just again, I've never NEEDED to. But also, Im not really criticizing your usage anyway. I once torched a tailpipe off because it was in my hand already anyway haha. Ill remember this conversation for if they ever give me a problem for sure. I've never worked on those heavy-duty plow trucks, so maybe that's the difference, idk. Biggest shit I work on is an f350 dually haha.

[Anonymous No.1586295]

>>1586100
Nec says its kosher as long as the city water is still metal piping, like in old neighborhoods. In fact, I'm pretty sure its specified in nec 2014

[Anonymous No.1586321]

>>1586035
>>1586289
>>1586290
went to home depot and got a glass scraper for $3. took all the residue off in 5 minutes. thanks!

[Anonymous No.1586329]

I heard a long time ago that there are boots that have polycarbonate toes instead of the more traditional steel toes.
Is this true? If so, how much force can the polycarbonate withstand before breaking?

[Anonymous No.1586413]

>>1586329
If that's what composite is, yes that's correct. 99%of boots now aren't 'steel' per se, they're called safety boots.

[Anonymous No.1586432]

>>1586002
WD40 + stanley blade (a new one that's fucking sharp)

[Anonymous No.1586433]

>>1586432
>went to home depot and got a glass scraper for $3. took all the residue off in 5 minutes. thanks!

[Anonymous No.1586436]

>>1586433
Good to hear. Nice dubs.

[Anonymous No.1586475]

Hi anons. This refrigerator has no brand whatsoever and, despite been closed, it thinks the doors have opened so it resets to freezing status and then it goes back to normal. Does anyone have experience with this type of refrigerator? Pic to the right is the screen let in us know that it's freezing all the shit we need for the shift. Any help will be greatly appreciated it.

[Anonymous No.1586498]

>>1584140
7 pin boxheader

[Bepperoni No.1586520]

>>1586413
>99%
Meh, it seems like I find more steel toes than composite toes when I’m looking. Maybe closer to 50/50. Those heavy fuckers are still real popular.

[Anonymous No.1586529]

>>1586413
Well, to be fair, I'm not entirely sure of what the main component is, nowadays, but I was curious because one of my roommates has a pair of steel toed boots and the leather is so worn down that you can see the steel toe, and I have a pair of safety boots that do feel tough, but don't seem to have any metal at all.

[Anonymous No.1586530]

>>1586498
thanks

[Anonymous No.1586567]

whats the best way to post a generic security sign into a flowerbed?

[Anonymous No.1586577]

>>1586567
Chop down a tree, use chainsaw to cut into 36” segments. Take a 36” long segment of the tree trunk and start sanding with 40 grit sandpaper. Once you get it down to a 6” diameter, switch over to 80 grit. Take that down to about 3”, then switch to 220 grit until you have a fine 36”Lx2”W piece of wood. Then procure a Victorinox Huntsman pocket knife and begin to whittle until your post is rectangular with a cross section of about 1.5”x0.5”. Measure height of flowers at peak season, add 16” to that, and trim the wood stake from 36” down to that number. Staple ADT sign to the top of the post so it looks like a lollipop, jam the bottom end approximately 8” into the dirt.

Then buy a gun for protection.

[Anonymous No.1586594]

>>1586567
Where can I get ADT sign without getting ADT anti-nigger system?
Steal ADT sign?

[Anonymous No.1586605]

>>1581179
Marking knives need a slight back ground so the edge doesn't ride the square.

Use sacrificial wood atop your nice wood, or more clamps

1-100 hits

Dont use nails or 1x2 pieces of shit wood, or learn to brace it. Glued holes before nailing can help...

You are getting play in the box, its crap, get a new one or a bigger fatter blade or a proper chop saw

Electric plane, jointer. Pallet trash

[Anonymous No.1586641]

I'm going to try bending some 5 mm dowels tomorrow, is there anything I should know, or is it as easy as steam, bend, dry while bent? I feel like their small diameter might make it harder.

[Anonymous No.1586693]

Moving into house built in the early 70s. Need help identifying this outlet/jack.

[Anonymous No.1586694]

>>1586693
Another picture including the plastic bit that was plugged into it. Probably some protective cover?

[Milwaukee No.1586722]

>>1586293

roger that. yea ill be the first to admit i may be over zealous with a torch but why struggle when i can just give it a quick blast

[Anonymous No.1586782]

>>1586694
remove the plate and expose the wires/cable

[Anonymous No.1587003]

>>1586694
Test it with a voltmeter.
Which room(s) is the jack located?
My old house had weird jacks for the doorbell system and thermostats but it didn't look like that.

[Anonymous No.1587004]

>>1586594
Go to ADT place and ask for them.
>>1586295
If you have a lot of stray current then it'll eat your pipes from the inside-out.

[Anonymous No.1587010]

Is it normal for unions to shaft their members?

[Anonymous No.1587016]

How do you fix a squeaky bed frame? What even causes the squeaking?

[Anonymous No.1587019]

>>1587016
Loose joints or screws maybe? Prop up the mattress and take a look.

[Anonymous No.1587021]

>>1586693
>bottom screw paint has chipped off
>bottom screw slot not vertical

[Anonymous No.1587022]

>>1587010
>Is it normal for bosses to shaft their employees?
yes

[Anonymous No.1587023]

>>1587016
>How do you fix a squeaky bed frame?
stop masturbating
>What even causes the squeaking?
masturbating

[Anonymous No.1587046]

>>1587023
Not him, but one of my spares actually resonated when it's windy outside and the noise transmited to the apartment below.
>>1587016
Required buying a different bed frame.
Even put foam pads underneath the feet and tightened the frame bolts but it still screeched.

[Anonymous No.1587052]

>>1581326
Chink 936 clone

[Anonymous No.1587137]

>>1581326
CXG 60W
This is pretty based 110/220V soldering iron. First chink thing that I got and didn't suck.

[Anonymous No.1587255]

>>1585349
Hey it's the guy you were replying to. Tell me if this plan sounds ok.

I'm gonna get a compressor crimper, a bunch of f type connectors and a 10-way splitter so I get cable to 5 bedrooms, living room, family room, basement, phone modem, and internet modem.

The blue wires don't have any writing on them. I think both the white and blue are cat 5e. I'm gonna put the rj45 keystones on all the blues and plug those right into a 16 port switch. Don't think I'll need a 24 port. And I'm skipping the patch panel step. Had a guy from the phone company come and he used one of the white wires for the phone line.

Gonna get different and more power strips because the current one sucks and nothing seems to plug in properly. They plug in enough to work but feels like a little touch will disconnect the plug.

This is pretty much what you already said to do but I just need (more) affirmation.

[Anonymous No.1587259]

>>1587255
A 10 port splitter isnt really necessary unless you actually have 10 TVs you want to watch. If you're running a 10 splitter, you should have a pro meter to measure the signal power and noise on the line. 10 is a lot. Just use a splitter of the right size for your setup.

For the cat5, its whatever. Your way is a lot cheaper and will fit in your box much better
L.

[Anonymous No.1587533]

Did exterior sandblasting get banned? I live in California and I haven't seen this done on a house in years. They were probably blasting off years of lead based paint anyway. Mainly it was to remove EIFS (texture coat) that people put on in the 70's as it was done to my house in the 90's.

[Anonymous No.1587608]

>>1587259
Suck my dick
Light.

[Anonymous No.1587614]

help me fix this gate. The bottom was buried for years and rusted off. They said to just leave it off.

Is there a common fixture I can use to attach a horizontal bar at the bottom?

I assume I can buy more the highlighted in red hooks at local hardware store, right?

[Anonymous No.1587652]

>>1587533
Probably, you cant even buy good windshield cleaning solution anymore

[Anonymous No.1587675]

>>1587614
>>1587614
>Is there a common fixture I can use to attach a horizontal bar at the bottom?
You need two sets of pic related (and two bolts and nuts) and a rail tube long enough to reach across the bottom.

[Anonymous No.1587679]

>>1587614
>>1587675
You can also use gate corner elbows.

[Anonymous No.1587751]

I dont know shit about bearings.
The hobo freight tires work well but the bearings arent. Are there higher quality bearings I can get to replace these?

[Anonymous No.1587770]

>>1581864
>tile guy here

You need a diamond grit drill bit. You shouldn't need bigger than 5/16" diameter. MAKE SURE TO KEEP THE BIT WET AND COOL! That is the trick, let the tool do the work.
Start at a angle, then tilt the bit flat
Pic is related to the style of bit you need.

[Anonymous No.1587771]

>>1587751
Yes, but it might be easier to just purchase better fully-assembled tires.
Automotive shop.

[Anonymous No.1587772]

I'm a complete idiot when it comes to all this wiring stuff, so can someone explain to me how this 8-way splitter works?

There's two service coax cables tied together with a ziptie in pic related: one is connected to another coax that ends in the living room, in where it's split into two to go into my modem and cable box; and the other service coax is connected to that 8-way splitter. If I'm not a complete idiot, aren't I supposed to be able to put my modem in any room whose coax jack is wired to that 8-way? I've tried every coax jack with my modem, and I get no signals whatsoever. Am I just completely getting all this wrong? I paid $3500 altogether for all this shit to be put in my new house, so I hope to god that im the only retard in this equation.

[Anonymous No.1587803]

>>1587772
I hate those fucking panels so much oh my god why dont they just put wall mount racks in, especially for $3700

The wires labeled service go to your demarc on the side of your house. I cant say for sure, that is sometimes they run two coax all the way back to the serving terminal, then your other service coax may not be working because it's not the right tap for your modem, or there could be a filter on it.

Or it could be one feed from the street split 2 ways at your demarc.

Or your modem might not be working out of the 8 way splitter because it dropped the signal too low, or the upstreamsignal from your modem is too low. Its usually written on there what each taps impact on the signal is in dB.

Do you actually have 8 tvs? Having coax connected to unused Jack's is actually really bad for your noise. Unused Jack's should be removed from the splitter and a smaller splitter used, or at least terminated with a 75ohm terminator in the room.

To fix your problem and move your modem, unscrew the room you want from the tap, and connect it to the other service wire that you're using now, and take the other room and put it on 8 port jack. That should probably work without messing up your signal numbers much

[Anonymous No.1587806]

>>1587803
Normally you'd put the modem and router/switch in that box, that's the whole point of having all that second line and all those ethernet cables.

[Anonymous No.1587811]

How is this possible on a lathe?

[Anonymous No.1587813]

>>1581864
Its quite risky but I drill though tile all the time with just a 1/8” or 3/16” hammer drill bit on my small makita, and haven’t cracked any yet. But I’m stupid and have giant brass balls.

[Anonymous No.1587816]

>>1587813
I should clarify, I use an SDS bit on my small hammer drill.

[Anonymous No.1587818]

>>1587770
Real electri- I mean plumbers use their teeth.

[Anonymous No.1587822]

>>1587811
What exactly?
Making a ball end?

Use a CNC lathe, or you know buying and using a ball turning attachment.

[Anonymous No.1587823]

>>1587822
I don't know the terminology but the cross section of the spherical part is still hexagonal.

[Anonymous No.1587825]

>>1587772
I have no idea, still have 4 coax points in my house that don't work and I did everything right IMO.
Terminated unused ports, expensive HF splitters, yet... Tester says there's a signal, but cable box doesn't ever load from only 4 rooms.

[Anonymous No.1587826]

>>1587823
There's special drill bits to make square holes, they must have the same thing for that.

[Anonymous No.1587828]

Here's something that works similarly (I presume). https://youtu.be/wWhMB7mljTY
Does anyone have the name of the tool or an explanation of how it works?

[Anonymous No.1587851]

>>1587679
>>1587675
thanks. Can I use an angle grinder to cut the pipe or will I frag myself.

[Anonymous No.1587852]

>>1587652
yeah I miss when lead was in everything

[Anonymous No.1587896]

>>1586693
300 ohm terminal for a rooftop television antenna

[Anonymous No.1587897]

Im just getting into working on my dads old toyota corolla which will eventually be mine, and Id like to have my own tool set in general

Any advice on first tool set? Not sure what else ill need it for besides auto but I lurk around /diy/ all the time

[Anonymous No.1587899]

>>1587852
I miss when french fries didnt cause cancer.

[Bepperoni No.1587908]

>>1587897
There is a giant list that gets posted on /o/ all the time but it’s sort of overwhelming. People will say “Just go to Harbor Freight and buy cheap crap!” but honestly they only have like 2 starter kits- one is complete cheapest possible garbage and the other is as expensive as better known store brands.

Get a starter socket and wrench set from Craftsman-Husky-Kobalt, they will be slightly better than the cheaper HF chinesium.

Those big kits go on sale quite a bit so don’t pay full price. Sears has some good sales right now on Craftsman, buy online and pick up in store same day will get you great prices, even better if you sign up for their stupid emails and get all the “FREECASH” bonuses. Pic related I think I can get an extra $10-$20 off with the coupons they sent me, plus the $60 over the next 6 weeks could be used for little shit like socket u-joints or flashlights or magnetic parts trays and pickup tools.

Pic related would have you covered for sockets. Then take a trip over to Harbor Freight and go for their mid-grade tools. Grab a Pitt Pro 25” 1/2” breaker bar ($15 w/ coupon), their mid-grade Quinn pliers set, 3-ton Rapid Pump steel jack (~$70 w/ coupon, by far best deal they have there), pair of 3-ton jack stands ($18 w/ coupon), some sort of tool storage for that stuff, and then probably toss an oil filter wrench and maybe a work light in there. Oh and spend $3 on a test light for testing fuses and use the free multimeter coupon for diagnosing electrical stuff.

A little further down the line you can look at a real tool box, something like a Ryobi power tool set, scan tool for check engine lights.

http://www.hfqpdb.com

[Anonymous No.1588000]

Hi /diy/,

I got my hands on some reclaimed wood.

I was hoping it was oak, but now after I got it, it looks more like pine.

Can you identify it?

[Anonymous No.1588015]

Every time I look into plumbing versus any other trade, electrical for example, I read the oft repeated refrain of "you can always go out on your own and start your own business" for plumbing.
Why is this constantly cited as a benefit of plumbing? Can't electricians (or another trade) do the exact same thing? What's differentiates the plumbing trade for this to be a exclusive advantage in head to head comparisons I just don't get it

[Anonymous No.1588032]

>>1587813
>>1587816
Please tell me you don't have it set to "hammer"?

[Anonymous No.1588033]

>>1587811
https://youtu.be/3Kzk3_uzRAg

[Anonymous No.1588035]

>>1588032
Lol of course not

[Anonymous No.1588038]

>>1588015
its not. you can easily start your own business in lots of different trades. iv done it. some might have higher initial startup costs than others in regards to tools but that becomes negligible quickly

[Anonymous No.1588060]

>>1588015
>plumbing versus any other trade, electrical for example, I

who the fuck are you talking to? Go to any construction site and look at what plumbers, electricians, painters, carpenters, etc. are using. Electricians and plumbers have very low cost of entry in terms of tools. Painters and carpenters have way more tools to buy, especially if they do any exterior work.

[Anonymous No.1588071]

>>1588015
Most places you need qualification to sign off on electrical work you did, whereas unless you are working on gas or high pressure you can do plumbing without any kind of certification.
If you burn down a house or electrocute someone you are in a lot more trouble than ruining a few carpets.
Electrical you SHOULD design and test everything you do, and be able to explain qualify and quantify every decision, why you choose a certain gauge, install method, protection.
Plumbing you need more water you make pipe bigger.
Electrical problems aren't immediately obvious, undersized wires or overloads or high impedance faults won't show up when you turn the power on, only when you connect up a room full of space heaters and the wires start melting. That's why testing and design is important.
Pipes are under pressure when there is no demand, so as soon as you turn the mains on you will know if the job is good or not, if it doesn't immediately fail it's probably fine. Even if its dribbly you can nip up the nuts without even turning the water back off.
Plumbing isn't necessarily easier but there's much less looking to fuck you over and kill everyone. That's why you need qualifications for electric.

[Anonymous No.1588120]

>>1581083
I am building a synthesizer drawer on my fredde ikea desk in the style as shown in the pic because i couldnt find an appropriate drawer for sale anywhere.

Regarding weight, does it matter if i take a 100 kg rated drawer slide despite the keyboard weighing 7 kg? I heard that underloading a slider is bad for it.

i know that i am definitely going to lean on it at some point and i dont want it to die when i do that, also a less rattly desk is always better. Thats why i'm going with the high capacity rating.

The drawer would be maximally 450 mm long, and around 1000mm when extended. The drawer would also be either 950mm or 1320mm wide. The drawer would also be 124mm high at least.
Would 1320mm be too wide for the drawer?

[Anonymous No.1588121]

>>1588038
>>1588060
got it thanks
>>1588071
nice answer thanks

[Anonymous No.1588129]

>>1588071
>whereas unless you are working on gas or high pressure you can do plumbing without any kind of certification

In the United States you cannot operate a plumbing repair company or pull a permit without a full time licensed master plumber overseeing operations.

[Anonymous No.1588163]

>>1588060
>electricians need to buy a $2000 megger and earth fault tester.
>plumbers need to buy a $5000 cable locator and rudder
>plumbers need to buy an 15k$ pipe replacement system

It's easier for plumbers to start their own business because people need plumbers all the fucking time because fixtures constantly break

[Anonymous No.1588246]

>>1588000
I showed you my wood, pls respond

[Anonymous No.1588247]

>>1588015
People are retarded, there’s nothing about plumbing that makes it inherently easier to go out on your own compared to the other trades.

[Anonymous No.1588248]

>>1581083
my rear brake lines are rusty is some areas. do i need to replace them or is there something else i can do?

[Anonymous No.1588250]

>>1588248

[Anonymous No.1588251]

>>1588250

[Bepperoni No.1588254]

>>1588247
My dad tried to start his own HVAC company back in the 80s but then he started doing too much nose candy and fucked it up.

>>1588248
>>1588250
>>1588251
Oil that shit up. I have heard about boomers in the rust belt who take their used motor oil and coat the bottom of their car with it. Beyond that, hopefully they aren’t too far gone.

[Anonymous No.1588256]

>>1588254
should i try to scrape away some of the rust first? clean it up a bit? i dont want to damage it

[Bepperoni No.1588261]

>>1588256
Honestly, I have no fucking clue. My best guess (which shouldn’t be taken seriously) would be to hit it with a little steel wool just to clean it up a tiny bit if you want and then coat it all with some sort of oil and keep up with it every few months.

[Anonymous No.1588272]

>>1588261
sounds good. thanks

[Anonymous No.1588297]

What the everloving fuck is this called, and where can I get one that's 3.75"

There's an old well pad next to my house, and I'm afraid some idiot is going to break their foot somehow or drop their keys down it.

[Anonymous No.1588302]

how much of a hassle would it be to make a laptop with a mechanical keyboard? I assume I can either get a SoC board, or just reuse my existing cpu / motherboard and then just 3d print a case around the SoC / cpu and buy a cheap lcd and 3d print something around that too

any links to someone doing this so I can just copy them? I type a LOT, so I'd like something a little more comfy

[Anonymous No.1588311]

>>1588302
>SoC board
I would rather not run arm because that's bound to get fucky since I normally work on i686, i would really like a x86_64 mechanical keyboard laptop

[Anonymous No.1588323]

>>1588297
Cap.
Almost any hardware store.

[Anonymous No.1588468]

I am running power through a Detolf's metal frame as shown in this guide: https://www.j-junk.de/allgemeines/ikea-detolf-mit-leds-wireless-ultimate-version/
The LED strip I used comes with a controller for turning on/off/dimming. When I connect the power/ground directly to my LED strip, dimming/on/off functionality works fine. When I connect the power/ground to the metal frame which connects to my LED strip, dimming/on/off does not work. Does anyone know why?

[Anonymous No.1588474]

>>1588251
Looking at this one I would replace it immediately. And I let shit go on my car. When those go its hard to stop. You will, but not as fast. And they normally go when you need them as that's when your hitting them the hardest

Its a simple job most times

[Anonymous No.1588574]

>>1581115
PEACHES COME FROM A CAN

[Anonymous No.1588637]

Is it possible to make R12 freon at home from bleach, acetone and hydrofluoric acid?
1. Mix bleach and acetone to get chloroform
2. Mix chloroform and hydrofluoric acid to get all sorts of CFCs.
3. Distill good stuff out

I don't care for a buck, I just want to have sustainable R12 for my shitbox AC.

[Anonymous No.1588638]

>>1588637
And yeah, how not to dazed by chloroform? I tried mixing bleach and alcohol, and shit is strong...

[Anonymous No.1588678]

>>1588468
The long length is basically eating the signal.

[Anonymous No.1588765]

>>1588638
>>1588637
You need a fuckload of PPE and dedicating some space to a micro lab to mess with that kind of shit anon. Good fume hood, eye wash station, etc. Your "sustainable" idea might work once but every time you do it is a big fucking risk that you'll be found way too late for medical intervention.

[Anonymous No.1588823]

>>1588765
Only PPE you'd need is a powerful fan and couple of gloves.
Maybe sunglasses.

[Anonymous No.1588898]

I want to make a cover that is easily removable, lots of airflow and can withstand 4-5 people's weight, on a daily.
I can work wood and metal to some extent, I have a mig welder.
What materials should I use?

[Anonymous No.1588954]

>>1588823
Get a full on gas mask

[Anonymous No.1588956]

>>1588823
Anon said he wanted it to be "sustainable" IE doing it on the regular by himself. That means having his own microlab and the relevant safety measures to make sure he doesn't fuck himself over by just going thru the motions. Hence saying
>Your "sustainable" idea might work
>once

Anyone can african engineer something in their back yard or garage but when you start wanting to PRODUCE something dangerous on the regular you need to control for your own error.

[Anonymous No.1589012]

how does a CAD brainlet draft a project? I've got an idea for a mid-sized and relatively complex project. It would be an assembly of mostly pre-crafted materials, but there are also a few custom parts that I'll have to fabricate - dimensioning those parts requires the exact measurements of everything else. I'd prefer to have everything drafted so I can present the 3d models to a potential investor instead of hoping the investor can infer a 3d model based on some shitty graph paper sketches.

[Anonymous No.1589048]

>>1589012
Fusion360 has a YouTube video on how to pull 3d models from McMaster carr

[Anonymous No.1589058]

>>1589048
thanks man. I'd buy you a drink if it was possible.

[Anonymous No.1589065]

If my scope and lab power supply are on the same net, can I just complete ignore those croc clips since both the scope and power supply are grounded on the same net?

[Anonymous No.1589067]

>>1589065
son what in the sam hill are you talking about

[Anonymous No.1589070]

>>1589067
Preventing blowing up my scope. Don't want to create a loop.

[Anonymous No.1589079]

>>1589067
>>1589070
To illustrate, in this case I wouldn't have to ground the alligator clip since both devices already share the same ground/earth.

[Anonymous No.1589102]

>>1589079
https://youtu.be/XBsQ3sZ45Fk

[Anonymous No.1589308]

>>1589065
In an ideal world yes, in real world the earth impedance around the loop seen here >>1589079 becomes pretty high at higher frequencies and also becomes an antenna picking up significant noise, using the ground clip on the probe gives much better results.

[Anonymous No.1589716]

>>1587896
Bingo. I hadn't realized there was some text on the plastic cover. Googled it and found out what it was.

Antenna no longer there. Any use for these?

[Anonymous No.1589727]

I downloaded Fusion 360 and it has a process called Streamer.exe which sucks up all my bandwidth. Is it streaming my project to the Fusion 360 company so they can see if I'm misusing the license? Is there some way I can lower the upload rate for it so I can stream music while I work in the software?
And yes - my internet is that shitty. Rural USA internet.

[Anonymous No.1589741]

>>1589716
It might make a good fm antenna just with the wires in the wall

[Anonymous No.1589743]

>>1589727
It streams your stuff to their server as an added feature, but it can work offline, it wants to check in life once a week or once a month.

You could probably add streamer.exe to windows firewall to block it completely. Google around for blocking programs with windows firewall

[Anonymous No.1589756]

>>1589743
thanks for the info, I appreciate it

[Anonymous No.1589784]

>>1589756
Oh, also some of the other stuff you can have their server farm do for you like stress simulations and shi or send to be professionally machined or printed (at crazy rates)

[Anonymous No.1590171]

I've got some corroded exhaust header bolts that are likely to shear off when I try to remove them.

I'll try stick welding a nut onto them when this happens.

Where should I attach my ground to? It's an aluminium alloy with steel bolts, but I was considering removing the head (500cc motorbike so small ish) rather than doing it in situ.

Will I be okay to ground to the aluminium cooling fins?

[Anonymous No.1590273]

>>1590171
should be fine - ground close to the stud you're welding on
the caution for welding on vehicles is to make sure the path is as direct as possible
don't ground on the frame unless you're welding on the frame - near the ground point
you don't want current finding a way through electronics or moving mechanical parts (bearing, bushings)

[Anonymous No.1590326]

>>1590273
Makes sense, thanks anon.

[Anonymous No.1590614]

What's the knack to desoldering? I've tried using both solder wick and one of those spring-loaded desoldering pumps, but it's tedious, difficult going in both cases. What's the secret to doing it right?