/wwg/ wood-working general

[Anonymous No.1542606]

So i have many gaming consoles that id like to consolidate to one unit and looking around
the internet for something premade like pic related hasn't been easy so i thought id make one.

Ive done small projects with wood but never something of this size. The goal would be to create something like this but perhaps longer and shorter so i can put it on a desk, longways.

Any tips as far as using wood glue, best type of nails and hinges, etc...?

[Anonymous No.1542608]

>>1542606

[Anonymous No.1542609]

>>1542608

[Anonymous No.1542610]

>>1542609

[Anonymous No.1542613]

>>1542610
perhaps more of something like this in terms of its length, but a desktop version

[Anonymous No.1542617]

>>1542613

[Anonymous No.1542652]

>>1542606
What tools do you have access to?

[Anonymous No.1542658]

>>1542652
Variety of hand tools, I have an electric hand saw, forgot the name of the tool honestly but it’s corded, an electric sander, and some other things like corset drills for drilling either sheet metal or wood screws.

I don’t think the tools would be a problem I just don’t know what type of wood and what the best way to put them together eg wood glue with metal brackets, all of which I can get from Home Depot or Lowe’s

[Anonymous No.1542659]

>>1542658
*corded drills

[Anonymous No.1542688]

>>1542606
>too many gaming consoles, guise. Send halp.
Breh, sometimes the /diy/ solution youre looking for doesnt turn out to be the one you had hoped for.
In this case, I would suggest you replace your multiple physical gaming consoles with an emulator capable of running all of the games your heart desires.
Not only will this save you space, but it will allow you to accumulate more games. Technology brings us abundance, lad, embrace it.

[Anonymous No.1542699]

>>1542606
>>1542658
First pic is just a bookshelf with different proportions and some coat pegs attached.

For an easy homeowner DIY project, use Plywood or stair treads and some thin strips of a nice wood on the front edges of the ply with some coathanger pegs.

Here's an overview of something similar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pdg4xRb9qzg

You can't get more basic than This Old House for modern home diy projects.

[Anonymous No.1542756]

>>1542606
You can make this shit with ANY type of wood saw, screwdriver, wood, 3/4 SPAX Flat Screws and some pic related. No glue or any other bullshit and it will be faster and stronger than any other wood working joint there is. You can buy all of the shit I listed at The Home Cheapo. Buy a 12 in rafter square, tape measure and a pencil while you're at it.

[Anonymous No.1542770]

>>1542756
troll

[Anonymous No.1542820]

>>1542688
Op here, I have a wii hacked to play all the older Nintendo systems, an Xbox, snes classic and a bunch of home audio equipment I’d like to nicely stack with the speakers on the side, sure emulation is great but I’d like to make a nice piece of furniture that I could use for different purposes such as my home audio and other gadgets I can hook up to it

[Anonymous No.1542822]

>>1542756
Op again, sorry for multiple posts

That’s what I had in mind as what I used to do for precious smaller wood working projects, I guess I can get som flat wood and build side pales and just use these brackets along with some wood glue to secure major structure points of the piece together, any other types of brackets, joints, specific wood screws I should look out for when building this?

I’ll definitely post results when it’s finished, might take me about two weeks to get done

[Anonymous No.1542842]

>>1542820
>>1542822
see:
>>1542699

This is the easiest to make it nice. You don't need the extra L-brackets to make it work, you can just screw the stuff together. For a longer shelf you need a middle support so it's 2 banks of shelves.

[Anonymous No.1542895]

>>1542770
Fuck off

>>1542822
I actually did something similar to what you are trying to do for my first wood working project-pic related. I didn't use glue (although it wouldn't hurt) just the corner braces. Use self-drilling screws, fuck pilot holes, and make sure the screws are the appropriate size for the brace and wood thickness you are using (e.g. #8 5/8, #10 3/4 or whatever). You can try doing it this way >>1542842 but it is a lot harder than it looks and very easy to fuck up, not to mention it is nowhere near as strong as using corner braces.

I made mine out 3/4 pine and I don't know you you are planning on putting a back panel. If you are I recommend the panel be at least 1/4 plywood. This is going to make it stupidly rigid. If you aren't I would use hardwood or thicker pine and make damn sure the outside corners are solid. Make sure your marks are accurate and your cuts are as straight as possible. A 12 inch rafter square works wonders here

[Anonymous No.1542967]

>>1542820
So to clarify, your priority is have a nice piece of wooden furniture, correct?
Its more about nice, handmade, wooden furniture than it is about your gaming consoles, correct?

[Anonymous No.1543014]

>>1542967
Op here again, I’d like it to look decent but more functional than anything else

Maybe not as big as >>1542895
But I’m going to make a smaller desktop version of it, I’ll give an update in about a week or two when I start up the project

[Anonymous No.1543054]

First time posting in /diy/. I recently built some Hard Drive racks (just cut down brackets) and wood box for them. I plan on building a bookcase or shelving unit for my many laptops and PC Towers. A different vision for me, would be a computer work station, with storgae underneath for said Hard Drive boxes, and room for Towers, as well as laptops, phones, and other equipment. Here is my current setup in case you were curious. Sorry about the poor lighting.

[Milwaukee !ShlRJ3wGuk No.1543063]

>>1542895

>fuck pilot holes

stopped reading here

@OP, get rid of your electrical jewish programming machines as theyre a monumental waste of time. the television as well, if you have time to sit infront of the jew box you have time to be reading 4chan/other material or learning a skill/hobby. sitting infront of a tv is not a good use of time. dont say its not a waste of time if you enjoy it, because you dont enjoy it. they've just programmed you to think that way. break free, OP. better late than never to sever the eletrical jewish umbillical

[Anonymous No.1543172]

>>1543063
Op here again lmfao, not Jewish at all btw, seems like you got something going on but I’m actually going to an HVAC school so I am learning a trade. I’m also trying to expand on the things I don’t have much knowledge on such as wood working

[Anonymous No.1543237]

>>1543063
>let me be a useless faggot just posting irrelevant shit to the thread

btw they make screws that drill their own pilot holes as you drive them in you dumbass retarded boomer

[Anonymous No.1543864]

>wood working general
>tfw created a shitty steam box in order to bend a slightly thick wooden stick i brought from the forest
>tfw able to create a bit of a curve in one of them
>tfw not sure if my steaming attempts were successful or the wood was just naturally malleable

[Anonymous No.1543995]

Op here again, thanks for everyone who was trying to help, turns out I’ll probably spend just about the same as buying an already built one so I think I’m going with pic related and the stuff in the red circle.

Going to mount the power strip and all console power bricks to the back of the unit using some wide Velcro strips and add some warm colored usb bar lights to under neath each shelve to make it look nice and lit.

[Anonymous No.1543996]

>>1543995
Dude, thats $108.00. Wtf are you doing?

[Anonymous No.1543997]

>>1543995
>>1543996
Home Depot has a work bench for $70. That is built better and better solid mounting surfaces

[Anonymous No.1544117]

I just finished my first build of a dining table and benches and I'm pretty satisfied. It only cost as much as the cheapest dining sets, but it looks way better and is measured to fit our odd space exactly

[Anonymous No.1544118]

>>1543995
That's just particleboard and/or mdf. Get some finished ply and make something stronger, even if you just copy their shitty design and use dowelled and glued joints it will outlive that pile of shit.

[Anonymous No.1544122]

>>1542606
I'll build you one if you message me on etsy
/shop/halfpaphandmade

[Anonymous No.1544132]

>>1543995
Why aren't you just building that? It's about $100 in materials and a day's work (+1 for staining/sealing)

[Anonymous No.1544156]

>>1542609
Where the heck did you get the Q?

[Anonymous No.1544252]

I have one of these assembled and it works fine for lightweight storage, but what can I do to reinforce the shelves to hold more weight? The shelves are currently just held up by pegs in particle board.

The entire back side is just a cardboard panel. My initial thought was to just attach a wood sheet or a couple of 2x4s to the back and mount brackets to those.

Ideally I want these shelves to hold more like 100lbs each.

[Anonymous No.1544256]

>>1542609
>Q
>64DD
fuck, thats nice

[Anonymous No.1544668]

>>1544252
You can build a cabinet like this with 3/4” ply or 1” melamine and get 100lbs/shelf if you affix it to a wall

[Anonymous No.1544689]

glue joints and dowling is the way to go for furniture, brackets get costly stupid fast, screws look bad, and nails that are small enough pull out annoyingly easily

you drill shallowish holes in the spots you want to join then you put glue into the holes and push little dowels in, you can buy tubs of little dowels for this purpose 8 bucks for 375 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milescraft-Dowel-Bucket-Fluted-Hardwood-Dowel-Pins-375-Pieces-5346/300590929

as for glue, titebond or gorilla wood or harbor freight store brand have all held up well for me

[Anonymous No.1545037]

I built the pine hutch from New Yankee Workshop 111.
pretty proud of it.

The back is made of 2x4s i milled into thirds.

[Anonymous No.1545122]

>>1545037
Looks good. Plans for stain?

As for me. Still hanging away at our new bed. Have more time now that holiday rush is over.

[Anonymous No.1545123]

>>1545122
Center leg and beams just got last coat of poly

[Anonymous No.1545126]

>>1545122

[Anonymous No.1545183]

>>1545122
>>1545123
>>1545126
Goddamn are you guys 500+ lbs each or some shit?

[Anonymous No.1545194]

>>1545183
I'm tired of cheap furniture. I plan on dying in this bed.

[Anonymous No.1545196]

>>1543995
Hey man, its nice, but you really can find stereo component cabinets off craigslist for $15-$20. I've got 2 Sanyo cabinets for that much. One is holding ~75lbs of stereo equipment like a champ.

[Anonymous No.1545443]

This is getting out of hand. We're approaching prices of decent bench planers and jointers. Fucking boomers. Can't wait for the next financial crisis.

[Anonymous No.1545467]

>>1542606
>router table
>band saw
>jig saw
>sander
>watch some PBS
Or just get some saw and chisels and
>watch some PBS

[Anonymous No.1545477]

>>1542688
poorfag detected

[Anonymous No.1545516]

>>1545122
>Looks good. Plans for stain?
thanks,
Amber shellac with a topcoat of polyurethane on the top worksurface.

[Anonymous No.1545523]

>>1545516
Nice. Doing the same with the bed but blinded rather than amber. You brushing orpadding your shellac?

[Anonymous No.1545525]

>>1545523
brushing. I have it super thinned and it goes on well. It's my favorite finish for pine

[Anonymous No.1545527]

>>1545525
How many coats do you do before poly?

[Anonymous No.1545529]

>>1545037
Good job. I remember that episode.

[Anonymous No.1545539]

>>1545529
thanks anon

>>1545527
3 or 4, just until i get a consistent darkness i like.

[Anonymous No.1545561]

>>1545037
>pretty proud of it.
You should be, that looks really nice. How long did it take to knock together?

[Anonymous No.1545566]

>>1545561
only a couple of weekends. Cost wasnt bad either. I had some pine 1x12s, i only had to buy a few 1x4s, 2x4s, and a piece of 3/4 plywood.
I still have to make drawers and cabinet doors for the bottom half. I did one drawer by milling a 2x6 down to 1x6 for the sides and milling a 2x4 to 1x4 and bookmatching them to make a 1x8 for the drawer front.
The back is a 2x4 milled into thirds (about 3/8x3 1/2) and half lapped. This was cheaper than buying a panel since the whole back only took 3 boards and cost under $10

[Anonymous No.1545609]

>>1542756
That isn't stronger. The weakness is the hole and tiny amount of surface area it has to grip. This is why properly glued and made joinery is far stronger despite not having metal in it.

[Anonymous No.1545611]

>>1545122
Looks awesome.

[Anonymous No.1545803]

hi, I've been looking to put up some shelves on the wall above my bed because it's generally just a waste of space and I could put some stuff there.

from what I understand, you need
>a drill that can be used on concrete
>tox
>screws that fit the tox
>shelving brackets
>the wood itself for the shelf

so that's basically it, but I have no idea how big the tox and screws and brackets should be, and I don't know where to get the wood.

I'm totally clueless but I think I can afford this project, I just don't really know where to start.

[Anonymous No.1545806]

>>1542606
I bought those cube shelves from walmart then bought prefinished shelf boards in the same color. I drilled and pinned the new shelves along with places for the pins in the shelving unit. Turned out nice enough and wasn't to tough.

[Anonymous No.1545881]

>>1545806
is that an air traffic controller monitor?

[Anonymous No.1545890]

>>1542609
anon you are rich

[Anonymous No.1545977]

>>1545194
>be Anon
>build bed
>an hero
>goals reached

[Anonymous No.1546245]

>>1545609
>The weakness is the hole and tiny amount of surface area it has to grip

Maybe if they were pocket holes or just end grain screws yes. The reason metal brackets are the strongest is not all about the screws but the fact they are able to effectively change the leverage (sometimes even increasing the surface area) of any force being applied to the joint itself at the same time. They do so by acting not just as connectors but as braces as well. The superior strength and isotropic nature of metals allows them to essentially act as pic related as well as a joint.

[Anonymous No.1546248]

>>1545803
What is tox? Do you live in the United States?

[Anonymous No.1546251]

>>1546248
>tox
i think he means mollys

[Anonymous No.1546255]

>>1546248
this?

[Anonymous No.1546370]

>>1545443
>$229 for a fucking BEDROCK
Honestly, I've just started making my own planes rather than buying "antique" trash for ridiculous amounts of money. Besides, wood on wood feels ridiculously good and you can make your tools look and feel however you want.

[Anonymous No.1546511]

>>1543995
Why are you here then?
DIY isn't always cheaper especially when you count time.
The goal of DIY is to get a skill and have a finished product that you made yourself.
>>1544118
It's a shelf for electronics meant for indoor use.
What in the absolute fuck are you doing inside your home which would cause these types of things to fall apart?

[Anonymous No.1546545]

>>1546511
>DIY isn't always cheaper.

Agreed. A lot of people dont seem to realize that at its core there is a difference between spending less and getting a better bang for your buck. I never DIY expecting to come away with a cheaper option, but rather to controll how the money is applied.

I could buy a 500 dollar bed from rooms to go and be fairly decent off, but for 1000 dollars, I'm building a bed that's more sturdy than many of the 5 and 6 grand master beds I've seen, and has all my preferred "accessories" designed in exactly as I want them.

That's not to say you cant save in some areas. My 2x6 laminated bench will outlast any of the ones you could buy at woodcraft and does so for less than half the price.

[Anonymous No.1546565]

>>1545443

Yeah, it is way too high, but that's a bedrock plane with "collector value". Just get a regular No 5 and save $200.

[Anonymous No.1546571]

>>1546565

Just got this one in the mail today for $50 and I probably paid too much.

[Anonymous No.1546573]

>>1545194
>my 600lbs life

[Anonymous No.1546583]

>>1545194
What's the point of all that craftsmanship when you could achieve the same results with some 2x4s? You have to pull the mattress off to see any of that work.
A headboard is a different story though.
But I dont see a headboard.
All I see is a bunch of wasted time and resources which could have been spent making a god-tier headboard.
It's like framing a house with fancy wood, putting a stain on it then putting walls over it.
Yeah you may know it looks good but it's besides the fact that it is absolutely pointless.

[Anonymous No.1546702]

>>1546571

I still have the bit drawers and finishing left to do, but I finally transferred the router table over to the new cabinet.

[Anonymous No.1546868]

>>1546583
Your not the first to ask that question. a lot of the reasons for this particular design are not super obvious, and of course there are a few self wank choices as well, but i might as well have some fun with it.

>What's the Point of all that craftsmanship

I honestly don't know what your referring to, as the design, while over built, is not inherently complex, nor does it require any crazy skill to tackle. Its all lamination, half laps, and ledges. no fancy tenons, no Japanese scarf joint madness. Yes, you could just throw some 2x4s across and be done, but when you put effort into something that you don't "need", it's just that, EFFORT. My mattress is on two hollow core doors currently, and that works fine for sleeping, but its trashy and not the best setup for "activities". The point was to build a bed that met all my requirements of a bed.

>But I don't see a headboard

True, though that's because I'm building it last so i can concentrate on getting the bed into the room first. Once again, hollow core doors and all.
The headboard will be nice and feature packed by my standard, but visually reserved when compared to some of the Brobdingnagian creations you see on the high end. Also not there is the breather board that sits on top which the mattress rests on.

[Anonymous No.1546869]

>>1546868
>It's like framing a house with fancy wood

In south America, they frame out with purpleheart because its plentiful. What's your definition of fancy? This is all pine 2x and shitty red oak ply from Home Depot. I'f you are refering to the lay out then i would agree that the pattern is slightly unnescasary at first sight, but it actually does have purpose.

>Yeah you may know it looks good but it's besides the fact that it is absolutely pointless

This is true of a great many things. I don't know about the rest of you, but i choose to be out in the shop because i enjoy it. I could watch tv and waste my checks on games and food all day and probably be just fine, but that sounds super shitty. DIY isn't a get rich quick scheme, it isn't a required skill set, it isn't a cheat code for cheap assholes, and it often isn't self sustaining (financially, anyway). Most of the things/activities people enjoy are just dopamine inducers, but it doesn't mean we have to abstain from it all.

[Anonymous No.1546873]

>>1546869
Now to actually provide reasons for the design.

I have a minor hard on for the Tatami style bed frames, mostly because of the clean monolithic nature of the design. I wanted to work the cross joint at the legs into my design for personal taste.

I wanted a design that was highly serviceable and easy to move, as i currently rent. This design has no fasteners and can be disassembled by simply lifting off each part.

I want options/accessories all over (hint: Bondage) I also want the option of eliminating our nighstands by having charging slots for phones and detachable tables. it's also going to have motion activated nightlights and switchable reading lights. The 4 Webs or the main mounting structures for the hidden retractable activity straps, which will also have adjustable entry points for various directional requirements.

I like more modern monolithic designs. I Don't have any interest in fancy carvings, ornate trim and weird paints. I want it stout, stable and clean.

As for the over built part, i feel like it's justafied. when you buy a shelving unit, the shelves often have a weight rating. that's usually the rating for what it can handle when the load is spread evenly, but put it all in the middle or off to one side and see how long that shelf lasts. Yes, my bed could handle a heavy couple fine, but more importanyly, it can handle all the non sleep related activities i'll throw at it. Every knee drop, every point load, every "cyclical racking" force, and any other inventive motions we can come up with.

Sorry if this is too wordy. figured it was better than ignoring the question entirely.

[Anonymous No.1546875]

>>1546702
Great work on the drawer fronts. very clean miters

[Anonymous No.1546889]

>>1546873
Where you get that thick ass plywood from?

[Anonymous No.1546893]

>>1546889
Its 4 pieces of 3/4 laminated together

[Anonymous No.1546900]

>>1546893
You glued them yourself? Have you noticed any warping? I have heard this was a common problem when gluing plywood together

[Anonymous No.1546903]

>>1546900
No warping at all. Used my bench as the reference surface when clamping. You could beat down a kaiju with these rails.

[Anonymous No.1547147]

>>1546873
Yeah, I was being a dick.
I get it.
To each his own.
Sometimes I cant fathom why people do stuff like you do when my pic is just as functional and customizable as yours.
Although I do have to add some rails on the sides to prevent mattress slipping.
I think I'll do that today.
Wife and I are almost 400 together and have put that bitch through some stress both intimate and rough housing and it's still solid.
Compared to mine, yours has a shit ton of craftsmanship.
I forgot to say that it's very nice and well done.

[Anonymous No.1547178]

>>1545037
Nice bro i just built this coffee table my wife picked out from some place online called ana white. I guess she makes shit thats easily built for noobs like me.

[Anonymous No.1547206]

How bad/good did I do using just the tools in pic(rotary tool and power sander not included) in about 2 hours.
My first attempt at this stuff obviously.
Any tips.
Aside from get better tools which I already know.

[Anonymous No.1547208]

>>1547206
A different angle and a little closer to see my horrid detail

[Anonymous No.1547220]

>>1547206
>>1547208
Sand that shit

[Anonymous No.1547222]

>>1547208

Very nice job.

[Anonymous No.1547225]

>>1547178

Beautiful work, but seems too nice for outdoors while too crude for indoors, unless your furniture is 2x4 style overall.

[Anonymous No.1547240]

so this seems like a semi related question to the thread.
Is there anyway to make wood "food safe"?
I have made cutting boards before and know hard woods and have used tung oil.
I guess my real question is, is there some sort of epoxy i can put on shit wood to make it food safe up to 350 degrees?
and by shit wood i mean just pressed OSB or the better pressed wood.

pic is the best hammer i ever owned

[Anonymous No.1547280]

>>1547147
Wasn't calling you out or anything. I took it as overly blunt, but there was nothing troll worthy about anything you said, which is why I put in the effort to give a full fledged answer. My roommate is similar to you. A very bare bones functional guy. You learn to accept different strokes.

[Anonymous No.1547285]

>>1546511
>What in the absolute fuck are you doing
Rearranging rooms a few times, moving once, having kids, being in your twenties and having parties. Basically anything that involves it not sitting there forever with zero stress placed on it.

[Anonymous No.1547290]

>>1547240
did you ever find a NOS replacement for it?
I still think of you from time to time when looking at hammers.

[Anonymous No.1548711]

>>1547290
I never got it, might not be the same guy you are thinking of. I was like one thread a year ago I had a client lose the hammer and was asking for help finding it again. I ended up getting pic related, its ok but I still miss that hammer.

no one seems to be answering my question. maybe ill post in SQG or what ever it is called

[Anonymous No.1548721]

>>1542606
Is this thing worth shit? I know HF is beyond hit or miss so I'm curious if anyone has one.

I'm just looking for a cheap Jigsaw, around $30 would be best.

[Anonymous No.1548864]

>>1546873
post pic of wife

[Anonymous No.1548898]

>>1548864

[Anonymous No.1548899]

>>1548864
Also

[Anonymous No.1548932]

>>1548898
>>1548899
Status: DELIVERED and CHECKED
nice job, your bed looks fucking great too!

[Anonymous No.1548973]

>>1546873
Started shellacking the legs. Got behind dealing with a cold.

[Anonymous No.1549070]

>>1547178
Damn bro are u me? I was just asked to build that exact table from that exact site.

[Anonymous No.1549541]

I needed a boot jack, so I made a boot jack. It works perfectly.

[Anonymous No.1549913]

>>1547240
I don't know if there's a way of making it foodsafe up to that temperature. You can use foodsafe mineral oil to finish, which is good for things like fruit bowls and trays. Finishes similar to polyurethane - fuck knows how it does in high temperatures though. I'm not gonna ruin my oven testing it.

[Anonymous No.1550218]

>>1549541
Hi, Billy.

[Anonymous No.1550300]

>>1545443
Search Millers Falls planes. I got a Millers Falls No. 5 equivalent from the 1930s in near perfect condition (just some paint chipping) for $55 with shipping a few months ago.

[Anonymous No.1550315]

>>1548973
your bed is fucking sweet anon. how does the headboard stay stable? does the head edge of the frame put weight on the headboard ledges? im probably going to steal a few of your concepts in the near future tbqh

[Anonymous No.1550394]

>>1550315
steal away anon. I don't really see any of it as original anyway. the headboard slides between the two back legs and the first horizontal slat rests on top of the back beam. since its going against the wall that should suffice, but options could be added for other use cases.

[Anonymous No.1550453]

>>1542609
>Even an Ouya
Kek

[Anonymous No.1550455]

>>1546511
Particle board is absolute garbage. It off gasses on top of everything else, if you have dumb kids who like to do dumb kid things like peel off the veneer and suck on all the formaldehyde rich goodness underneath you're better off just making something yourself that will last longer and look less ugly.

[Anonymous No.1550457]

>>1545123
>Coating breathable material in plastic
Ruined. The bed itself looks sturdy as fuck though, good job.

[Anonymous No.1550935]

>>1550457
No one wants to "feel" Borg ply and 2x. It's a proof of concept, not a show room piece

[Anonymous No.1552623]

>>1546255
Rawl plugs son, I'll proper shank yer nan, ya get me?

[Anonymous No.1552809]

>>1545122
Isn't this going to be a bit too hard to put a matress on. Don't you want something with a bit mor spring for comfort, even if it means that you are going to replace a few planks from year to year?

[Anonymous No.1552825]

>>1552809
No different than a platform bed. I have a 12 inch memory foam mattress so it's good on any flat surface.

[Anonymous No.1552829]

>>1552825
I guess this might just be a concern if you have a cheap matresse like me.

[Anonymous No.1552836]

>>1552829
How cheap? Generally speaking any mattress should perform as rated given it's on a flat stable surface. If you need more bounce, nothing will beat just getting a Spring heavy mattress. I feel like allowing it to flex on an external spring surface would allow uneven or premature wear. My foam mattress is super stiff, but also comfy because of the surface give. As long as you give it a flat surface its perfect.

[Anonymous No.1552905]

Does any one have a good book/video/website on japanese joinery?

[Anonymous No.1552943]

>>1546571

I've been too sick to get any shop work done, but the plane body and lever cap is looking pretty nice with some scotch brite pads.

[Anonymous No.1553149]

I needed five 10mm dice, so I made five 10mm dice. They work perfectly.

[Anonymous No.1553173]

>>1553149
What did you use to burn the dots on?

[Anonymous No.1553176]

>>1545194
>>1546868
what program did you use for modeling the bed? Fusion360? i've been using sketchup and i don't like how it renders.

[Anonymous No.1553185]

>>1552809
Soft beds ruin your back, you need good support.

[Anonymous No.1553189]

>>1553176
I use sketchup for most things, including this. I only use fusion when there's movement or mechanization involved

[Anonymous No.1553231]

>>1553173
A hot coat hanger wire that had been flattened and beveled on the end.

[Anonymous No.1553251]

Thoughts on this slimmed down English style workbench? Top is roughly 25x72x5.25. Every angled cut on the legs can be done easily with a miter saw (with depth) . Every cut on the stretchers can be done with a hand saw. Construction is flexible.

[Anonymous No.1553258]

Made a basic setup on my ceiling to add shelf space to my room

[Anonymous No.1553260]

>>1553258

[Anonymous No.1553262]

>>1553260

[Anonymous No.1553264]

>>1553262

[Anonymous No.1553421]

Built a pair of fullrange bookshelf speakers for a friend. Struggling to get MDF joints that aren't visible when painted.

[Anonymous No.1553441]

>>1553421
prior to painting

[Anonymous No.1553612]

>>1553251
I'd put an extra support across the center on the underside of the table top to help prevent moisture problems cupping/warping the top. I'd also have the skirting continue on both ends.

[Anonymous No.1553779]

>>1553421
>Struggling to get MDF joints that aren't visible when painted.
Use wood filler on the "end grain" of the mdf, sand lightly and paint.

[Anonymous No.1553789]

>>1542820
>No Atari 2600

Fucking casual.
Dropped.

[Anonymous No.1554203]

Made this shelf for my mother-in-law. She collects snow globes...

[Anonymous No.1554241]

I need some help /diy/. I'm a pretty beginner woodworker, pics related are of the bedframe I've made in a campervan I am building. Problem is, now that I've secured it to the floor, the whole thing has some sway to it. Pushing back and forth on it, the legs to the bottom and top supports have like a quarter inch of give. I had built another bedframe before with a slightly different design and used just butt joints and screws drilled in diagonally and whatnot and somehow that was more stable. Here I went with pocket screws after read they were stronger than screwing into endgrain and now it has a ton of wobble. What should I do? I'm open to rebuilding it as 2x3's are fairly inexpensive but unsure why I dungoofed in the first place.

[Anonymous No.1554243]

>>1554241

[Anonymous No.1554272]

>>1554241
add some cross braces on the middle of the vertical beams

also, maybe your pocket screws are too far from the joint, and the screw isn't penetrating deep enough into the recipient ?

[Anonymous No.1554276]

>>1554241
>>1554243
>babby's first build
Yeah I've been there too. Diagonal bracing to eliminate sway.

[Anonymous No.1554285]

Where does one go about acquiring cheap wood for woodworking?

[Anonymous No.1554286]

>>1554285
... a lumberyard / builders suppliers?

[Anonymous No.1554322]

>>1554286
still pretty expensive. can i just use wood people are giving away on classified sites?

[Anonymous No.1554328]

>>1554322
If home depot 2x lumber is out of your price range, you may want to find a new hobby. Short of ripping up pallets, that's as cheap as it gets

[Anonymous No.1554337]

>>1554328
Not a burger, our version of https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-4-in-x-96-in-Premium-Kiln-Dried-Whitewood-Stud-161640/302777992 is like 2x the price :(

[Anonymous No.1554361]

>>1554276
>>1554272
Thanks guys, I'll check the screw depth and add bracing.

[Anonymous No.1554365]

>>1547240
West Systems epoxy says on the can it's food safe, but I don't remember if they list a temperature rating.

[Anonymous No.1554371]

>>1554361
oh and glue the joints at the same time as screwing them, if that's practical.

[Anonymous No.1554438]

>>1554285
Lumberyard.
If there's no lumberyard nearby, find a cabinetmaker who keeps a lot of wood on hand (he probably gets a discount from the yard, and buys in enough volume to get it delivered by truck), then ask if you can buy some number of board feet off him. Not really a standard thing, but he might agree to it if you're not too autistic.

[Anonymous No.1554441]

>>1554285
honestly, my secret is buying 2x6s, 2x12s, etc. and milling them on my table saw. If you dont have a planer, it can be really hard.

For exotic wood, check estatesales.net. Most estate sales have a handsaw and a block plane some old guy had in his garage. I got lucky once with a woodworker who died, he had a shop full of stuff. I bought slabs of maple, sycamore, mahogany, cherry, and oak and spent like $50. Plus tons of scraps and cutoffs he saved. I make toys, tools, and random stuff so little cutoffs of exotic wood are invaluable and they sold them $5 for a bucketfull.

[Anonymous No.1554461]

anyone else here actually work in a cabinetshop? i build more doors and frames than anything else.

[Anonymous No.1554463]

>>1554365
It's absolutely not reliable above 150 f

[Anonymous No.1554537]

>>1554463
Well that's a bummer, I was hoping to use it to waterproof and stabilize some coffee cups I turned in some wild cherry.

[Anonymous No.1554541]

>>1553421

I've got a friend that goes through MDF like it's going out of style. Polyester filler primer works miracles to smooth out MDF end grain.

[Anonymous No.1554652]

>>1554441
>>1554438
Thanks for the tips senpai, imma write these down

[Anonymous No.1554703]

>>1545443
The reason thats so expensive is because its a 2 patent date. I started with a 605 but any plane with do to learn with. Youre going to fuck it up anyway

[Anonymous No.1554705]

>>1546545
DIY is an investment. You dont get a cheaper product if you only use the tools once. But if you build lots of things with them and become efficient at building then it becomes cheaper

[Anonymous No.1554706]

>>1548899
Well i sure am jealous

[Anonymous No.1555213]

>>1554285
The forest? You can buy chainsaw jigs to rip trees into lumber.

[Anonymous No.1555328]

I've been trying to find a tv unit that fits with this sort ot style, but everything I see is so far out of my price bracket. I was lucky and found my sideboard in a charity store.

What are the odds of me being able to diy something to match this. I thought if I took my time I might be able to manage it or am I being delusional?

Is there anywhere I could find plans I could use modify? I'm pretty new to DIY.

It's 25% necessity 75% borbom. Vidya doesn't do it for me anymore. I need a project and something to learn.

[Anonymous No.1555361]

>>1555328
Go for it anon. That's about as simple as a cabinet gets. The hardest part is the two shaker style doors, but even that's a YouTube search from easy. What tools do you have?

[Anonymous No.1555364]

>>1543054
Discord is for retards.

[Anonymous No.1555368]

>>1553149
>>1554203
>>1548899
>>1547178

sexy

[Anonymous No.1555374]

>>1555361
Nothing outside usual home diy stuff at the moment.

My Dad has always ran his own kitchen /bathroom fitting company so the heavier duty bits like table saws etc I thought I could maybe do whilst visiting the parents for a weekend. Get as much as i can cut to size over a weekend and take it away with me.

As a newbie should I be aiming to mortise and tenon a cabinet or should I go for pocket screws.

I want to push myself / learn something however I'm not sure what would be stretching too far

[Anonymous No.1555376]

>>1555374
If time is no factor and your the type to trek on through frustration then go for broke, however, a peice like that wouldn't benefit much from complex joints unless they are a strong visual element. Pocket screws or even just free floating side and back panels is much more economical.

[Anonymous No.1555380]

for your amusement: this photo of my toothbrush holder I took with my chromebook webcam

[Anonymous No.1555381]

>>1555380
i also made this fuckin shelf for my tiny bathroom

[Anonymous No.1555402]

>>1555213
>The forest? You can buy chainsaw jigs to rip trees into lumber.
For real? Link me one pls

[Anonymous No.1555427]

>>1555376
Time is not really a factor. My main worry is ruining a bunch of expensive wood or something.

Is there anyone or any book websites you recommend for how to build a cabinet. I'm starting from the ground up really. I've been watching a lot of YouTube videos trying to get idea.

I'm still pretty clueless. I'm not 100% on what type of wood to approach it with.

The local DIY places to me seem to main be pine and oak. I'm guessing what I currently is oak? Seems pretty free of knots.

[Anonymous No.1555430]

>>1555427
>how to build a cabinet. I'm starting from the ground up really.

Start with something simpler.

[Anonymous No.1555432]

>>1555430
Can you recommend something? Not trying to be an ass hat. I was aware I may be over reaching.

Like I said I mainly want a project to enjoy and learn. I just thought I'd turn my focus to something I actually need.

It would be nice to build something and not fill my house with a billion shitty book ends on crappy shelves.

[Anonymous No.1555437]

>>1555432

This board cracks me up sometimes. I'm reminded of the line in the movie "Arthur", where the John Gielgud asks him "do you want me to come in there and wash your dick too?"

Be patient sir, someone nice will show up eventually.

[Anonymous No.1555459]

>>1555437
Well shit you seemed to have an opinion on the matter and like you might have some experience.

I thought maybe you might have had something more insightful that the top google results listing middle aged women's pinterest ideas.

Why reply if soon as someone asks you to elaborate on your point of view you just tell tjem to Google it?

[Anonymous No.1555463]

>>1555432
Start with a chest to hold your dildo collection, and then maybe you can think about moving on up to a cot for your wife's son. Once you've done the cot you should have the skills required to make a cabinet.

[Anonymous No.1555468]

>>1555463
I mean you were almost helpful through your seething damage control.

I'm sorry it turned out this way. It's obviously you've been waiting all you life for someone to actually listen to your opinion. And when it finally happens on a mongolian duck racing forum you crack under the pressure and suffer a complete autistic meltdown.

I hope it turns out better for you next time anon.

[Anonymous No.1555473]

>>1553149
The sides are correct, this pleases me.

[Anonymous No.1555475]

>>1555468
I'm not that anon, just fucking with you lol

[Anonymous No.1555477]

>>1555475
I ain't even mad, 10/10

[Anonymous No.1555572]

>>1555468
I'm not him.
I'm
>>1555361
>>1555376
Got busy at work.
As for how to build a cabinet, I really cant explain it better than YouTube can. Watch everything you can until it seems right to you. Maybe even watch some videos on how to use each of the tools you need. You can build a box 30 ways, but it's still just a box.

The wood itself need not be expensive. You could achieve the some look as your original pic with select pine boards and red oak plywood, both easy to get at home depot. Just throw on some amber shellac and your done. I wont waste time on explaining why you should mill your own wood as that's beyond your current resources.

[Anonymous No.1555641]

>>1555427
Get "The why and how of woodworking" by Mike Pekovich, the art director of Fine Woodworking.
It's a wonderful book that's not too expensive, and will get you a lot of the way there, and make you have a much better idea of how you want to go about it.

[Anonymous No.1555745]

>>1555572
Cheers for the advice I think I'll go for it. 8ve been watching a few videos and probably getting to the point where I need to get my hands on some thing.

I've gotten to the point where there is nothing left within reason to do in my house. I'll need to start break stuff so I have things to fix again


>>1555641
Just Googled the guy and checked out his insta seems pretty cool ill check the book out thanks

[Anonymous No.1555837]

>>1555361
>What are the odds of me being able to diy something to match this. I thought if I took my time I might be able to manage it or am I being delusional?
you can 100% do it. Those are shaker doors, the easiest panel doors to make. It looks like Oak, which is tough and hard to cut, but not the end of the world if you use power tools. I'd use a table saw, but you could get away with a router. Just break the project down into individual joints. Each joint is a problem to solve. Determine what will be strong, what looks best, and what you can do.

Watch old eps of New Yankee Workshop to see a project come together.

[Anonymous No.1555866]

>>1554276
>>1554272
>>1554371
Thanks for the advice. I added the cross braces and they fixed it. Fast forward a few days and I made a drawer to slide between the legs and while the drawer fits, it turns out the bed legs are out of square so when I added my slides they "pinch" the drawer as it slides in halfway under the bed. Very frustrated and unsure whether or not just to start over.

[Anonymous No.1555877]

>>1555866
Unfasten the backs of the slides, close the drawer fully then mark where the slides are. Remove the drawer, line your slides up with the marks you made, refasten.

[Anonymous No.1555973]

>>1555877
Thanks. I got over my despair (kek) and measured the leg that was off, it was 1/8” “in” of the cabinet so I tapered the drawer slide on that side with a lot of sanding. Still a little bit right when completely pushed in but I think it’ll be fine.

[Anonymous No.1555987]

Hardly woodworking, but it's rare that I work with wood at all. A simple L shaped shelf that the other half demanded for the bedroom cupboard.

[Anonymous No.1555988]

>>1555987
Forgot pic

[Anonymous No.1556008]

Little L shaped shelf for the bedroom cupboard

[Anonymous No.1556012]

>>1556008
Also just acquired this wall mounted heater for nothing, which I have nowhere to wall mount. So I've started by making a frame around it and now it's free standing. Just need to box around it now with as yet undetermined, free wood from work. Never really worked with wood much but when I can get endless supplies for free I'd be foolish not to start practicing.

[Anonymous No.1556084]

>>1556012
Very enterprising, are those joints single screw or screw and dowel?

[Anonymous No.1556095]

>>1548898
>>1548899

Dammit she's hot! Enjoy making sweet cyclic racking forces with her.

[Anonymous No.1556997]

>>1556084
They're just single screw, strength will be added by the box built around that skeleton. I've also started a simple bookshelf using the same build method for comics and toys. Strength will be added to this by a diagonal length up the back when I pick up a piece long enough tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.1557185]

whats the /wwg/ favoured workbench?
anyone got any plans I can use?

[Anonymous No.1557192]

>>1542606
anyone ITT Know how much 4.5k of attick flooring will cost? should I put boards down first?

[Anonymous No.1557201]

>>1557192
About tree fiddy

[Anonymous No.1557384]

>>1555973
try rounding over the corners of the drawer at the bottom edges too, to stop it binding up while sliding in

[Anonymous No.1557504]

Took a break from all the poly work on the bed to start designing the fun bits. I designed the underside of the bed to allow bolt on upgrades all around so we can actually use the bed while I work on the accessories.

[Anonymous No.1557615]

i'm trying to make a dice tower like wyrmwood's design. what's a good way to set the magnets into the wood? there's not enough friction to hold them in the holes by themselves

[Anonymous No.1557634]

>>1557504
I don't get the diagram

Also, my half done end table

[Anonymous No.1557651]

>>1557615
We both already know the answer is epoxy

[Anonymous No.1557655]

I now have fixed my laundry chute and have a place to put my laundry basket to catch clothes that fall down.

[Anonymous No.1557679]

>>1557615
Cyanoacrylate should be fine. No need to bust out the epoxy unless you really want to

[Anonymous No.1557683]

>>1557634
It's a pulley system. It's a self contained cable retractor module with secondary stepped tension adjuster. Four identical modules will be mounted under the bed, each providing four auto retracting cables to attach things like cuffs, extensions, web rings, and other future ideas. Each module will allow 2 paired cable sets which provides 2 60 inch extension or 4 30 inch extensions. The stepped adjuster adds internal extension so that a full external extension ranges from 50 percent max pull force up to 75 percent, just incase she gets stronger and I need to up the power.

[Anonymous No.1557694]

>>1557683
Kinky bastard.

[Anonymous No.1557933]

So, I just chopped down a few trees that were leaning on a wire in my home and I'm wondering, can I use it's wood for anything? I've never done any woordworking before so idk if this is a thing, to just grab a fallen tree and use it's wood, or if I'd need it to be processed before I can do anything.
The tree was some kind of palm tree I believe, and pic related is the chopped down remains of like three of them (and I might chop down a fourth one tomorrow to prevent it from falling on the wire)
also for reference, this wall is about 2m tall. the wood is quite "thin" and idk anything about woodworking to understand if I can build bigger things

[Anonymous No.1557943]

>>1557683
Interesting. I'd like to see your pulley system once you have it put together.

[Anonymous No.1557992]

>>1557943
It might be a while. Gathering the hardware is easy but I'll need a few new tools before I can start. Namely a plunge base for the router and a better drill guide.

[Anonymous No.1558143]

>>1557683
Do you know who the "she" is, or have you yet to select her?

[Anonymous No.1558197]

>>1558143
See
>>1548899

[Anonymous No.1558566]

>>1556997
All finished. This has gone a lot better than expected, and I've learned quite a bit.

[Anonymous No.1558676]

>>1558566
Very clean and utilitarian.

[Anonymous No.1558696]

>>1558566
May I suggest you clamp and glue the shelf components together on your next build to ensure a flat surface on the shelf. I'm not trying to put you down but that would rustle the fuck out of me.

[Anonymous No.1558705]

>>1558696
It's a worthwhile suggestion, and it crossed my mind but I figured the weight of the books will keep everything in order when the shelf is full, there is some give in the boards. I also like the idea that I can easily remove and store a shelf if I wanted to store something bigger on the shelf below.

[Anonymous No.1559541]

Picked up two planes for $35 (first two) unmarked no3 smoothing plane and a Millers Falls no14 Jack plane. 5 1/2 and cleaner 3 for size reference. Really psyched about the 14. Boomer made me work for it, took 10 emails to get an address out of him.

[Anonymous No.1560167]

Is 1/3 HP good for a beginner's wood lathe or do I need more power?

[Anonymous No.1560210]

>>1560167
Depends on what you're doing with it. If you're making pens it's fine. Anything else, step up

[Anonymous No.1560221]

>>1560210
Was planning on doing pens, rings, maybe the typical bottle opener handle or wine stopper. Mainly just want to try my hand at a lathe and cant justify the $600+ precision models.

[Anonymous No.1560239]

>>1542606
That looks so bad. Get a box and put the kids toys away

[Anonymous No.1560241]

Millennials buy all this dumb shit then whine when they can't afford a house.

[Anonymous No.1560244]

>>1560241
>insert mandatory boomer comment here
Lifes a bitch when your generation ruined it for mine. Wish I could afford a house on a gas station attendants pay like you could.

[Anonymous No.1560470]

>>1547178
Looks nice - would go well with my entertainment set I built for my wife if I chose a darker stain

[Anonymous No.1560471]

>>1547206
Looks good, my suggestion is to stencil with an overlay and take a sharp blade (box cutter) to trace the outer border before you route. Itll help prevent the edges from tearing out and gives a pretty professional, clean look without too much babying afterwards

[Anonymous No.1560476]

>>1553421
Real clean, nice job anon

[Anonymous No.1560479]

>>1557679
Ass, just say super glue

[Anonymous No.1560483]

>>1560479
I usually just say cyano. As many glues as we talk about here, best to be specific

[Anonymous No.1560648]

>>1548721
owned a CE drill once. Never again. The tool itself was shit and the batteries didn't work worth shit (both can't hold a charge after very light use). Never used any corded the drill was enough to stay away.

[Anonymous No.1560707]

Why do people ever buy indoor wood glue and school glue when they cost the same as outdoor water resistant wood glue?

[Anonymous No.1560735]

>>1560244
Boomers couldn't either. This is just a fantasy made up by lazy millenials.

[Anonymous No.1560766]

>>1555473
lol So long as two opposite sides equal "7" when added together it is fine for most all games, but it isn't required for most games either. I still do that anyway. Though, I just look at a standard die and copy that.

>>1553149
I found I needed a larger set of dice. These are 14mm and also made of hard, well-seasoned, plum tree wood.

I used a Dremel with a round-ball, wood-carving, burr bit to make the dot indentations. The heat produced was just enough to color them enough that I don't need to do anything else for color. I beveled everything with sandpaper and finished them to 400 grit. Then I put them in a mason jar of mineral oil and pulled 25inHg (top pic). Once the bubbles stopped I opened it up, let them soak for a while then drained and wiped them up. The finished product (bottom pic) looks and feels much better than the previous 10mm ones.

The ones in >>1553149 used a hot wire for making the dots. Because the dice were not stabilized with resin, some of the carbon from the burning process flowed out into the wood fibers. It was carried by moisture still in the wood (even after 5 years of seasoning.) Which is why those other dice look like someone used a marker to make the dots. Which is also why the dots on the end grain don't have that problem.

I was looking online for handcrafted wooden dice and dang they are really expensive for some reason.

[Anonymous No.1560777]

>>1560707
Outdoor water resistant stuff is harder to clean up and in some cases the glue line is visually unpleasing.
Titebond III dries quite brown and more opaque than say titebond I or II and from what I read on forums that's why they chose not to use TB3.

[Anonymous No.1560797]

>>1560244
>implying consumers control the economy

[Anonymous No.1560799]

>>1560766
>I was looking online for handcrafted wooden dice and dang they are really expensive for some reason.
Maybe you should cash in on the opportunity and make some for selling?

[Anonymous No.1560800]

>>1560707
Water resistant wood glue stays more flexible instead of harden.

[Anonymous No.1560844]

>>1560799
Just because they advertise them for that much doesn't mean they are actually selling them.

[Anonymous No.1560848]

>>1560844
True, but you'll never know if you don't try.

[Anonymous No.1560849]

>>1560848
It is easy to know that it isn't worth it. Make a dice set and you'll find out why.

[Anonymous No.1560853]

>>1560849
So the "they are really expensive for some reason." is a known reason then, not just "some" reason.

[Anonymous No.1560857]

>>1560735
Minimum wage in the height of the baby boomer generation was roughly equivalent to $18/hr today.

[Anonymous No.1560919]

>>1560853
Would you pay $870 for a set of dice?

[Anonymous No.1560958]

I have an unfinished/varnished wooden table that has some stains on it. What's the best way to get rid of these if possible? Can they be sanded out? I don't do woodworking.

[Anonymous No.1561068]

>>1560483
i'm a chemist so i knew what you meant anyway

[Anonymous No.1561093]

I want to build a comic book cabinet. I have been looking for decent plans for a while. A few years ago some capeshit nerd with little to no woodworking experience posted his comic book cabinet on youtube, and people are now building their own and posting their videos all following his same flawed design. (The second guy made his cabinet so big without thinking how he would ever have to get it out the room if he were to move.)

Anyway, pic related... I think this is 4 feet high by 2 feet deep. 4 drawers on each side. The only thing holding the two sides together are the top and bottom pieces, with a divider in the middle.

[Anonymous No.1561095]

>>1561093
I think THIS (pic related) is a much more solid design. I think the only reason you would have an entire piece of plywood on the sides is for looks. Does anyone want to give me any ideas how I can combine the two designs pictured?

[Anonymous No.1561124]

>>1560958
Rag, mineral spirits, and elbow grease

[Anonymous No.1561240]

I'm looking to get into the hobby, but doing research I'm finding (my only) options to get lumber to create anything costs way to much. I'd like to build a desk, dressers and beds for my house for example. To buy the wood it will be very expensive and I might as well just buy a decent whatever at a store. Do you have any advice to help me out? Thanks

[Anonymous No.1561262]

>>1560958
>Can they be sanded out?
From the pic that looks like some resin/wood composite. To much sanding and you'll get through the textured paper and it'll look worse then the stains.

If it really is wood, then use, you can sand it out.

[Anonymous No.1561266]

>>1542756
>faster
Not really
>stronger
Emphatically not.

The fastest join is glue and brad nails. The strongest join will be dove tails. The fastest strong joint will be glue and pocket screws. Brackets are nearly useless.

[Anonymous No.1561269]

>>1544132
>Why aren't you just building that?
Because he doesn't know how.

[Anonymous No.1561271]

>>1560958
Those stains are permanent, many thousandths deep. To prevent any more use a polyurethane or epoxy coat. Sand to 600 grit between coats.

[Anonymous No.1561273]

>>1546868
>I honestly don't know what your referring to
To the uninitiated any skill looks like magic.

[Anonymous No.1561274]

>>1554241
>whole thing has some sway to it
Think in terms of triangles.

[Anonymous No.1561277]

>>1555402
Just google "chainsaw mill"

[Anonymous No.1561279]

>>1560479
>use a brand name rather then the specific term !
How about "no"

[Anonymous No.1561281]

>>1560735
It must feel great to be this ignorant.

[Anonymous No.1561296]

>>1561262
It's this:

https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/desks/table-tops-legs/gerton-table-top-beech-art-50106773/

It says it's solid beech

[Anonymous No.1561303]

>>1561296
Trust Ikea to make their actual wood like a composite.

[Anonymous No.1561473]

>>1561240
What options do you have? Are we talking hardwoods or pine and ply? Building is never cheaper than buying unless your looking at the top end, and even then, you not saving anything because you had to invest time in training and tool purchases. However, given the necessary tools and skill, 500 dollars of lumber will make a bed far better than any 500 dollar cardboard frame from rooms to go.

[Anonymous No.1561475]

>>1561303
That's because its alot cheaper to glue up scraps and off cuts than it is to but blemish free wood of significant length

[Anonymous No.1561479]

>>1561473
My options are Lowes, Home Depot and True Value. You have given me the answer I was hoping not to hear.

[Anonymous No.1561485]

>>1561479
So than it really comes down to your designs. Pine and ply can be made to look like a lot of woods, and are plenty sturdy for most furniture. You can always use MDF and melamine but it's not likely to last nearly as long.

[Anonymous No.1561641]

>>1561266
Brackets > everything else, except maybe aesthetics but that's up to personal opinion

>fastest join is glue and brad nails
No way in fucking hell, would of believed you if you just said brad nails. Anyhow you're giving up a lot just for speed.

>The strongest join will be dove tails
See >>1546245

>The fastest strong joint
Wtf does this even mean?

[Anonymous No.1561643]

>>1561240
>I'm looking to get into the hobby, but doing research I'm finding (my only) options to get lumber to create anything costs way to much. I'd like to build a desk, dressers and beds for my house for example. To buy the wood it will be very expensive and I might as well just buy a decent whatever at a store. Do you have any advice to help me out? Thanks
Check craigslist or similar for people giving away old furniture or needing wood removed from someplace. You can probably use these to make stuff with.

[Anonymous No.1561663]

>>1545123
Yuck

[Anonymous No.1561668]

>>1546702
Did something similar but not as pretty. How did you deal with the height adjustment issue with the router?

[Anonymous No.1562106]

>>1561641
>Brackets > everything else, except maybe aesthetics but that's up to personal opinion
Why don't you just admit you have no clue what you're talking about?

>>The fastest strong joint
>Wtf does this even mean?
Compromise between strength of the joint and the speed of making it.

[Anonymous No.1562233]

>>1558705
they're talking about the individual beams that make up the shelves being out of alignment

[Anonymous No.1562371]

>>1560958
sometimes I feel like people should come up with a new word for stain so that they get the idea that it ain't coming out.

unrealistically, you could let the whole table naturally bleach through intense UV.

[Anonymous No.1562468]

>>1542756
OP dont listen to any of these armchair fools.
A small L-braket like the one pictured is going to make your life easy. That's and wood screws will allow you to do a lot without the need for glue, or joints plus you can take it apart when you move or choose different heights of shelves

[Anonymous No.1563252]

>>1560766
>>1553149
>yet more dice
Okay, someone stop me.

Here's a 5-peice 20mm dice set I finished this morning. I used mimosa wood (Albizia julibrissin.) It is really easy super to sand, but HOLY HELL it is very difficult to saw through with a power tool. It sorta slows the blade down in a weird way. I've never had any other wood do that before, even when green. These are mostly green and only seasoned for a couple of months. I thought the table saw motor was going to burn up. According to wood database, mimosa wood is similar to American sycamore in hardness and I think that's about right. Due to their much larger size, I decided to do a longer semi-stabilization process with mineral oil. I pulled 26inHg for 8 hours, released the seal, waited an hour, and pulled 25inHG again. A few hours later I released the seal and let them soak up more mineral oil.

I'm hoping the double treatment will help prevent this green wood from splitting later on. I forgot to re-dip the cut ends of the limb I used and overnight its hearts were showing signs of splitting already. I re-dipped them in hot wax and set them back to season. Since the dice didn't start splitting in that amount of time, there's some hope they won't split later.

These are a bit oversized and nearly the largest I can make with the Dremel 580 saw table with 4 inch blade. If I pulled out the band saw, I could make larger ones, but as a 5-set this is a handful and the largest that is needed for a 5-set roll. They have a nice feel to them and roll well.

Now, I have a 15-piece 10mm set, 5-peice 14mm set, 2-peice 16mm set, and a 5-peice 20mm set.

[Anonymous No.1563788]

>>1563252
The best part is taking farther than you have to or originally planned to.

Not much to report myself. Just finished the bases of the legs. Pretty easy. Routed in a half inch recess and cut a 3/4 ply square to fit. I'll slap a couple coats of poly on tomorrow and that will just leave the mounting holes on the main beams left.

[Anonymous No.1563925]

I autistically measured my apartment so that I could do a previsualization before I bought the tatami mats.
Fusion 360's default materials are really good.

Now that I know how buying wood actually works I'm going to have to redesign the table.
The metal thing in the back is what will soon be my workbench with no tabletop. Mass is cheap, I can add it later with sandbags or something.

[Anonymous No.1564041]

just how good is painters tape? (3m scotch blue)

so far I've put two undercoats and one top coat on with very light hand sanding in between. the edges of the tape don't look damaged but it's hard to tell under all the paint.

still have two more top coats to go on but i'm shitting bricks in anticipation of taking off the tape

[Anonymous No.1564043]

>>1564041
prior to painting

assembled the speaker cabinets backwards, should have painted the sides before putting in the front baffle, but that engineered beech tends to bow when it's not fastened down, so I put the cabinet together in a hurry.

[Anonymous No.1564062]

>>1564043
mocked up

[Anonymous No.1564105]

>>1562106
>Why don't you just admit you have no clue what you're talking about?
Nice argument

>Compromise between strength of the joint and the speed of making it
Dumbest shit I've read this week. You're binding a superlative adjective with a comparative adjective and denoting it to an absolute. You don't even know what the fuck you are saying

[Anonymous No.1564107]

>>1564062
You could use edge banding at a 45 to clean up the joints on the face.

[Anonymous No.1564162]

>>1563925
Fuck I just realized that I rendered the room of ritual suicide and sent it to the tatami manufacturer.

[Anonymous No.1564643]

I just ordered my dremel today and it'll be here in a week or two. I'm excited to do some bullshit and fucking up because I'm jumping right into a big project (DnD large dice box) instead of learning how to use the thing.

I'll be back when I undoubtedly fucked up, or when it comes time to stain / finish the wood which I have no experience with outside of wax.

[Anonymous No.1564669]

>>1564643
how are you meant to do anything of meaningful precision with a Dremel?

[Anonymous No.1564670]

>>1564669
Wing it and then do lots of sanding?

[Anonymous No.1564689]

>>1545122
You need to put tempered glass over some clear plastic standoffs. Could make an octagonal glass piece that is aligned with edges of table but not corners. Like 14" per leg.

[Anonymous No.1564690]

>>1564643
Make a mini lathe for it. Make sure the workpiece spins so the top spins away from you, not towards you then lay the Dremel bit on top or facing you to remove material. If it spins towards you it will whack the Dremel bit.

>>1564669
It really depends on the wood. Shit wood will produce shit results. A nice dense hardwood that doesn't have tear out problems will be easy to work with for precision. Fruit woods are good for detail work and material removal is slow so you don't mess up quite as fast as say a soft pine wood. Check the Wood Database and read the notes below to find out the basic properties for woodworking. Look for, "tear out," and avoid ones that have bad tear out in their general structure or with whatever part you want to specialize in.

https://www.wood-database.com/wood-finder/

>Workability: Areas with straight and clear grain are easy to work with hand or machine tools. Care must be taken when surfacing irregular grain or knots to avoid tearout. Plum glues, turns, and finishes well.

[Anonymous No.1564692]

>>1564669
Depends on the detail you want. You'd need to be pretty good to do something like this with it, but Dremel would love you for the publicity if you did,
http://www.ba-bamail.com/content.aspx?emailid=13474

[Anonymous No.1564696]

So I'm looking to make my own arcade stick (technically an all button "hitbox" variety) and I'm going to make the actual physical box out of wood. I have access to plenty of tools, probably everything I could ever need, and I have the existing know how to plan out and then build the box itself.

My issue is finishing. I know precisely bugger all about how to 'finish' something like this. What are my options, how do I do it, what's reasonable to do for a single small project like this?

The obvious main requirement is that my hands need to be able to rest on it and move around without damaging the wood, my hands, and of course any extraneous wrist sweat needs to not bugger up the finish.

Any recommendations for what would be good? I'm probably looking towards a more classic wooden look, rather than gaudy gaming stickers/decals, etc. Might also put some kind of brass/metal edging on the corners, I'm not sure yet.

[Anonymous No.1564698]

>>1564690
Uh... if I was making minis or something I'd consider it but nah. I'm making a box, likely with etchings. A lathe wont help.

[Anonymous No.1564700]

>>1564698
But, you can lathe out some teeth for the Mimic dice box.

[Anonymous No.1564715]

>>1564700
I was thinking more along the lines of adventurer's kit. And if I screw up badly enough, I figure I'll just cover all the wood with dragon leather like they do.

[Anonymous No.1564719]

>>1564715
Honestly you're going way too ham for a bunch of 90 degree angles.
Buy a chisel and a mallet. You'll only need one because all of your edges are going to be the size of that chisel.
Bam. Sharp, smooth edges. Fuckups impossible.
No handheld router required (???)

[Anonymous No.1564720]

>>1564715
adventurer's kit for reference.

https://tabletopartisans.com/pages/the-adventurers-kit

It's a good design but they use shitty wood and leather to cover all the shitty wood (presumably. I mean I dont actually know what's under the leather but I presume it's shitty wood)

[Anonymous No.1564722]

>>1564719
I understand that it's not entirely necessary, but it's a really cool tool. And also it's more for etching and doing cool design work. I ordered a few free sample pieces of marble and other stuff so it'd be interesting to see if I can make a cool design and incorporate it in.

[Anonymous No.1564724]

>>1564719
>>1564722
oh, and the fact that I dont own many tools or have a bench. So having a dremel is kinda like having a multitool. Not particularly efficient at large jobs, but with a little time and effort it'll handle jobs I'd use a jigsaw or power sander or whatever other tool for.

[Anonymous No.1564725]

>>1564724
>or have a bench
This guy proves that you can do appreciable work without an actual bench using cleverly positioned pins and blocks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvhn-PAfEW4

You don't actually need a bench, you just need something that can prevent the wood from jumping around, with or without clamps.

[Anonymous No.1564728]

>>1564725

I plan on using my hand and the floor.

It's fine.

I'm an engineer I got this.

[Anonymous No.1564729]

>>1564728
post results
I'll be sure to be here to say, "I told you so" as you inevitably justify your actions

[Anonymous No.1564734]

>>1564729
dont kinkshame me this is diy not professionals doing professional work

But ok I will. I mean, it might take a while though. Dremel still hasn't shipped from Amazon. Haven't pushed buy on the diamond bits yet for the marble. Haven't actually visited a shop for wood yet. But I'll get around to it.

Gotta get some practice in first with my dremel on some scrap though. Got these nice handy cubes of shitty wood in my room so I figure I'll see what I can do.

I shall have you apologize to me when my result is amazing and good.

[Anonymous No.1564736]

>>1564734
Increase the probability of that by going slow, being patient, and taking breaks when you get tired. I expect a fit that damn near takes a mallet to put together.

[Anonymous No.1564737]

>>1564736
Hey I bet I could make a mallet with my dremel

[Anonymous No.1564739]

>>1564736
Actually, I was originally just going to do one of those cuts into the board to increase surface area for gluing.

It would be fun to attempt one of those japanese held together by sheer friction things though. I'm not sure how much weight can be put on it but.... worse case scenario I end up using glue yeah? I shall consider this.

[Anonymous No.1564754]

>>1564643
you'd be better off with a good saw then a dremel.

[Anonymous No.1564755]

>>1564754
But it's NOT AS COOL.

Also; again. The whole etching and making nice decoration things. Dont you judge me.

[Anonymous No.1564756]

>>1564754
Dremel is the most over rated tool out there.

[Anonymous No.1564788]

I'm getting better at cutting dovetails. Feeling pretty good about myself. I know it's not a big accomplishment, but I just wanted to share. Hope you all are getting better at whatever you are working on now

[Anonymous No.1564849]

>>1564689
Not sure I understand what your saying. This isn't a table.

Anyway. Just finished the frame. Here's a shot of the inserts before I put them in

[Anonymous No.1564852]

>>1564849
Here it is in the bedroom.

[Anonymous No.1564853]

>>1564852
And the mattress was a perfect slide in fit though the sheet doesnt show it.

Now on to the headboard.

[Anonymous No.1564899]

>>1564725
>>1564729
You don't need a workpiece holder for using a Dremel. I haven't for 30 years.

[Anonymous No.1564942]

>>1545443

I just got some stanleys off ebay myself. More pricey than they were 10 yrs ago, sure.

The trick is to look for an intact sole, a good lateral adjust, and everything more or less there. But then visible or easily repaired damage that scares off the casuals. My no 5 had a broken knob and was covered in rust. The rust came off easily and I'll just make a new knob.

Bedrocks are collectibles. Later baileys have most of the same features and go for much less. Or just do Miller Falls and other brands. Blood and Gore has a table of equivalent models by other manufacturers.

Or buy new. If lie Nielsen or veritas are too rich for your blood, woodcrafts isn't bad and the new stanleys do the job too with some fiddling.

Or hell just make your own.

All those gen xers (not boomers) are financing a hand tool renaissance. You just have to have a little sense when you buy.

[Anonymous No.1564951]

>>1564788
That is nice and thank you for reminding me that I have a harbor fright dovetail jig somewhere collecting dust that I never used because I don't have good wood to use it with.

[Anonymous No.1564953]

>>1560735

Sure they could. I'm early gen x, my dad was a ww2 vet, so I saw this shit first hand. That shit about paying your way through college waiting tables? I saw it with my own two eyes.

[Anonymous No.1564955]

>>1560844
>>1560848

I looked the most well known company up on the webs and people do buy... they just get excuses for two years and never get the product.

[Anonymous No.1564958]

>>1564955
What company and what do you mean by, "excuses for two years and never get the product."

[Anonymous No.1564960]

>>1560766
>they are really expensive for some reason.
Time ain't cheap. Anything made with first world labor is expensive.

>>1560799
>Maybe you should cash in on the opportunity and make some for selling?
Better yet, bulk order some from some chink company that makes them and make a decent bit of money pretending you made them yourself :)

[Anonymous No.1564962]

>>1561093

Looks good, what's the problem? 4ft isn't too big to move, standard bookshelves are 60-72" high.

Seriously, just get a book of designs like Hyltons and pick one. Most bookshelves are pretty standard if you ignore the style flourishes. Also search for lawyers cabinet, that's a term for glass fronted designs.

If you live in a house for ants and can't squeeze 48 inch high pieces through your door, Google campaign furniture, which packs up for transport and can be steampunky.

[Anonymous No.1564963]

>>1561240

What region of the world do you live in?

Southeastern USA uses SYP for dimensional lumber, which if you are careful in how you pick and process it can be totally furniture grade. Some regions are the same for Douglas Fir.

[Anonymous No.1564965]

>>1564960
Normally, a quick google search lets you see through that type of scam. Which is not something you want to do if you have an online presence that needs long term legitimacy.

[Anonymous No.1564966]

>>1564965
>a quick google search lets you see through that type of scam
The thing about scams is, you're not trying to scam everyone. Email scams have a hilariously low success rate, yet they get a lot of suckers.
And you can just set up an etsy account or whatever people are using these days for this

[Anonymous No.1564968]

>>1564966
That's more work that doing it legit.

[Anonymous No.1564975]

>>1564942
>you just have to have a little sense
what if you have no sense and no experience

[Anonymous No.1564978]

Hey diy. Can to have suggestions on how to mount 4x4 legs to a tabletop?

>Pic related

[Anonymous No.1564980]

>>1564978
Also I considered this >>1546245
But the 2x4s are mounted to the table top the other way.

[Anonymous No.1564985]

>>1564105

I condemn your propositions, prepositions, premonitions, and quantum superpositions. Your remonstrations and perturbations are nothing more than masturbations, emanations of elations over your wordy elidations, deserving only castigation and rhetorical castration.

>Sophistry deserves sophistry.

Btw you can get cheap quartersawn southern yellow pine at Lowe's. Just saying.

[Anonymous No.1564987]

>>1564978

[Anonymous No.1565027]

>>1564978
Would this be the best bet?

[Anonymous No.1565072]

I was sitting at the desk, coding with Android;
I went totally pissed by the fact I had nothing to hold my phone in a descent position.
1H well spent.

[Anonymous No.1565245]

>>1564960
>Better yet, bulk order some from some chink company that makes them and make a decent bit of money pretending you made them yourself :)
This is /diy/, not /capitalism/.

[Anonymous No.1565287]

>try to buy babbies' first hand plane
>no 7, no 5, no 4
>wait you don't need a no 7 they're expensive anyway
>you can do eeeverrything with a no 4 :DDD
>you could spend an assload of money just flattening the sole might as well get a WoodRiver or Quangsheng gweilo :DDD
>Stanley handymans everywhere
>Oh no handymans are actually chang-tier!
>baileys are overpriced
>millers falls, record etc. just don't exist
>end up buying just one sargent 409 for $40 in decent condition, has all the bits including adjustment lever and no cracks anywhere
My head hurts.

[Anonymous No.1565291]

>>1565287
You can always just make your own hand planes. You can make them from scrap metal like old single-metal saw blades and from just about any wood laying around, though hardwood is best. Then the only limits on size will be the metal sourced.

[Anonymous No.1565452]

Raised garden bed. Im working on a few of these for a mini garden

[Anonymous No.1565580]

>>1565452
Also see: >>>/out/1464048

[Anonymous No.1565584]

>>1545037
I love the top part, but somehow the lower part does not match the top. Do you have any blueprint or 3D pictures so I can wee what it would look when it is finished.

[Anonymous No.1565589]

>>1545443
In UK they have a pretty good manufacture that sell high and saws and planners.
https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/acatalog/One_and_Two_Man_Cross_Cut_Saw.html

I got a high quality saw for £20, it is hand made in UK, made to last. Planners are expensive but apparently they are ready to use and top notch.
https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/acatalog/Clifton_Bench_Planes.html#SID=454

The kind of tools that were already expensive 100 years ago.

[Anonymous No.1565594]

>>1565589
>that sells high end*
I made that box with my saw. It depends on what you want, but the price corresponds to the production method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NiW5E8vYaPo

[Anonymous No.1565600]

>>1565594

[Anonymous No.1565672]

>>1564107 #
It came out fairly well. Still have to wax the front face, am worried it will smudge the paint

[Anonymous No.1565674]

>so much good stuff ITT

Good job everyone!

[Anonymous No.1565678]

>>1564853
I predict many stubbed toes on those legs

[Anonymous No.1565698]

>>1565678
No problems yet. All corners are rounded partly for that reason. As for dark times. The headboard will add a motion activated underglow

[Anonymous No.1565721]

>>1565672
Looks good. Just give the paint time to cure and you should be fine.

[Anonymous No.1565725]

>>1565721
yep, leaving it another 24h then will add beeswax + buff

[Anonymous No.1565792]

>>1565584
look up New Yankee Workshop 111 on Youtube.

I havent done the drawers or cabinet doors for the bottom yet.