/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.1526596]

I'm not really new to woodworking but I've never tried to make a dovetail joint before. I don't even have a wood saw. I want to make a wine box for a gift for my wife. Is this a good beginner/ intermediate method or is the another method I should be using?

Any solid joints DIY recommends?

[Anonymous No.1526600]

>>1526596
go for it, absolutely don't expect to cut it bang first time. or even hundredth time, leave a little extra and file/sand/hone down to a good fit.
hopefully your wife will appreciate the effort and aesthetic rather than insist on perfection because unless you are jesus h christ reborn it's not going to be perfect first time you pick up a saw. also it will take a lot longer than you think it will take to make even something simple, i hope you are a patient man and also of course sawing and filing and sanding if you are not used to manual labour your arms will tire relatively quickly to begin with but you must persist.
good luck god speed and post some fucking pictures of your progress ffs so we can all have a good chuckle in a kind spirited way.

[Anonymous No.1526602]

>>1526600
oh, yeah, a normal person would probably use a table mounted router to cut a dovetail, preferably with a jig if you are mr moneybags. that will probably come out pretty fantastic once you get used to setting up...

[Anonymous No.1526612]

>>1526600
Thank you. I feel as though you may be inebriated but I appreciate the positive feedback. I'll certainly post pics. I mostly make shit out of scrap wood so I'm used to the labor part. This will most likely be no exception as I have a few different types of wood I want to use.

Pic related; I built and mounted that mantel with pieces of scrap wood I keep around the house. Looks better than a bare brick wall

[Anonymous No.1526752]

never tried it myself and my grandfather never showed me how. But he told me if I ever do, the quality of my saw and chisels is really important, and If I try with cheap shit don't bother.

from my own experience making small boxes / frames, the phrase "measure twice and cut once" only counts if your measurement is correct in the first place. so yeah, go for it, there's only one way to learn.

it will be easier with a router and a jig, the jigs are relative easy to make, but doing it by hand would be baller

[Anonymous No.1526760]

>>1526596
They are not hard, you just have to fuck a few of them up before you get them right. Just make the box bigger than you plan, add 4 or 5 times the thickness of the wood to the lengths, that will leave you plenty of fuck up space, just cut them off and try again.

If you are hand cutting them, learning to lay them out is key.

[Anonymous No.1526768]

>>1526596
splines

[Anonymous No.1526796]

>>1526596
>Any solid joints DIY recommends?
Finger joint or box joint. Easy, strong, effective.

[Anonymous No.1526804]

>>1526600
>>1526602
>>1526612
>>1526752
>>1526760
>>1526768
>>1526796
Not one of these bozos has ever picked up a saw let alone cut dovetail joints

Buy a jig and a router its no big fucking deal
You /diy/ keyboard droolers are cringe worthy at best

[Anonymous No.1526819]

>>1526804
Fuck you nigger I have. Dovetails are a pointless meme joint.

[Anonymous No.1526825]

>>1526819
wut ever cum guzzler
yer mum blows goats

[Anonymous No.1526836]

>>1526596
>I'm not really new to woodworking
>I don't even have a wood saw.
yo wut, nigger???

[Anonymous No.1526840]

>>1526596
Veritas fine tooth dovetail saw. Acquire one.

[Anonymous No.1526881]

>>1526596
I inherited a diy dovetail jig and used it last year for a shelf. Harbor Freight has a version now.
Took me about half a day to hone things in. Take your time, be attentive, and practice a lot. Get some cheap pine and laugh at all your fuck ups along the way.
If you have a router and jig, it's foolproof when you finally understand everything and have it dialed in.
>>1526600
fpbp

[Anonymous No.1526892]

>>1526596

Go for it, but expect the first few pieces you make to have gaps. That being said, what's what I usually do:

* Sharpen chisels before I do dovetail work. Less stuff breaking out.
* Mark the dovetails with a dovetail marker if you have one (Veritas sell nice brass ones for not a whole lot of money). Second best choice is an adjustable straight edge (you will probably bump it into something and lose the setting at some stage...).
* Use a dovetail saw or backed japanese saw for the rip cuts. Cut a blade's width into the waste side so you've got room for adjusting.
* Do the cross cuts with a manual jig saw (the U shaped ones) and a wire blade. Leave about 1mm of waste.
* Once you've cut all the dovetails that way clamp a piece of hardwood along the designated bottom line and shave off the waste with a sharp chisel. Don't shave all the way to the other side of the board (you'll break out chips that way) but shave about halfway in from either side. When shaving, try to avoid using a mallet (if you have to use one you left too much waste...)
* Now fit the dovetails into each other by carefully filling the waste down until they fit snugly
* Once you are happy with the dovetails, fit the whole box together with glue, let the glue dry over night.
* If you've got any gaps you still need to fill in, fill them in with wood putty now and let it dry over night.
* Sand and apply first coat of oil, let it dry over night.
* Sand again with a fine grit (180-400) to remove excess dried oil
* Apply second coat of oil, let it dry over night.
* Sand again (very lightly) with a very fine grit (400 to 800) to get a smooth finish.

[Anonymous No.1526897]

>>1526596
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4vLxwUa5yY

[Anonymous No.1526903]

>>1526836
I do most of my projects with my radial arm saw and band saw.
>>1526840
Next on my list

>>1526819
But they look good

[Anonymous No.1526978]

>>1526804
Cut many a dovetail actually, all by hand.

>>1526796
Dovetails are oddly easier to cut, they are considerably more tolerant to being less than perfect.

>>1526819
Self squaring, strong, need clamps in only one direction, and can look quite nice. Seems like a great joint to me.

>>1526903
>Next on my list
The veritas saw, and their tools in general are made for people with larger hands as far as I can tell. I have smaller than average palms with long fingers and most of their tools are very difficult for me to use for any amount of time. They are great saws and the best deal for the money though.

I find the Lie-Nielsen far more comfortable, think they actually have slightly larger handles, just better shaped, never compared them side by side though.

[Anonymous No.1527009]

>>1526596

Is this line cosmetic? If so, why? If not what is the purpose.

Thanks in advance!

[Anonymous No.1527014]

>>1527009
Those are layout lines, sometimes they are left, sometimes they are not, depends on the aesthetic. Occasionally folks will inlay into the layout lines to make them stand out more and hold up better over time.

[Anonymous No.1527059]

>>1526978
I just bought a cheap kobalt dovetail saw so I can start practicing. I'm going to forego the chisel aspect and see if I can smooth it out with a thin hand jig. I'm debating getting a planer but that may be only once I've gotten the technique down.

[Anonymous No.1527072]

>>1527059
Chisels are standard for doing the ends of the pins and tails for a reason, in the hand tool world there is just nothing that is even remotely as quick and easy.

The Kobalt saw will likely be fine, the modern high end saws are a great thing but far from needed. I have late 19th century marples dovetail saw, almost all of the cheap modern dovetail saws are better, than this 150 year old top of the line saw. In the end the difference is small and it still is the saw of choice for some tasks.

Main thing would be stone out most of the set, most saws these days are set to aggressively, for a dovetail saw, you want almost no set, none if you can get away with it.

[Anonymous No.1527180]

>>1527009
I think those are driven into the material from the marking gauge. It's normally not the look I go for either, but it's nice in the example.

[Anonymous No.1527234]

>>1526596
>I want to make a wine box for a gift for my wife.
don't over complicate it

if you don't have a table saw, make one with a circular saw....it will work fine for most projects

[Anonymous No.1527298]

>>1526804
>jig
>router
but that's lame woodworking

[Anonymous No.1527320]

>>1527009
James Krenov, a US cabinetmaker of note, used to leave his markings...
I wasn't a big fan of his 3 decades ago, but I can certainly appreciate his abilities...he was very very good...

[Anonymous No.1527327]

>>1527298
Whatever you say faggot

[Anonymous No.1527397]

>>1527327
Anon is right, that's mechanised wood forming for people with no woodfu.

[Anonymous No.1527409]

>>1527397
who gives a flying fuck grandpa?
>look at my cigar box that took 4 days to make by hand Im a bored lonely sloth

[Anonymous No.1527440]

>>1527234
A circular saw could save a lot of time cutting finger or dove joints. There's no need to adjust the fence or jig between cuts.

[Anonymous No.1527640]

VERY rough start. I got the idea but time to hone the technique

[Anonymous No.1527656]

>>1527640

Holy shit that's bad, even for a first go.

[Anonymous No.1527666]

>>1527656
;_;
Th-thanks.

[Anonymous No.1527673]

>>1527640
Next time try making a dovetail joint

[Anonymous No.1527685]

>>1527640
>no newports to go with this failure

[Anonymous No.1527690]

>>1527640
is this a joke?

[Anonymous No.1527691]

>>1526596
>>1527640
Expectation vs. Reality

[Anonymous No.1527701]

>>1527640
not bad OP
nothing a couple gallons of filler wont cure
>save the trees

[Anonymous No.1527703]

>>1527640
the rare pigtail joint

[Anonymous No.1527710]

>>1527640

my sides have left the soler system

[Anonymous No.1527712]

>>1527640
Kek! I did this myself when I first tried dovetails, although my fit was way better. Destroyed the evidence quickly, and will now only admit to it on an anonymous image board.

[Anonymous No.1527720]

>>1527640
If this is a serious attempt (which the image name looks to reflect), I'd recommend watching a few youtube videos. I'd highly recomend TimeLife Video: Shop Secrets from master craftsmen. It's all good, but Dovetails start at 18:45. Critical things your missing: Good chisels and a better/finer saw blade. Probably a bench Clamp would help keep the pieces stable while you saw.

[Anonymous No.1527727]

>>1527640

All jokes aside OP. We all have to start somewhere. Some of my first projects had a similar level of fit and finish. Mistakes, youtube, books, money, and advice from others will increase your success level over time.

I remember an attempt at a bookshelf with a friend that went about as well using constuction lumber. I had no concept of having to joint and plane rough wood. I had no concept the degree of accuracy required. But I learned and got more tools and am better now. Keep going!

[Anonymous No.1527732]

>>1527727

Is it true that a woodworker can never own too many clamps?

[Anonymous No.1527749]

>>1527640
I've never laughed so hard. Did you even use a chisel or was that just with the coping saw and whatever that flush cut saw is? I'm sure you're get better with practice. I just finished this holder for a tissue box.

[Anonymous No.1527759]

>>1527732

The more woodworking I do the more it seems to hold true. Just buy them as you need them though dont go out and buy 500 dollars in clamps if you dont have a tablesaw.

[Anonymous No.1527761]

>>1527749

the autist in me wants you to either have the setup lines consistently or not have the setup lines at all.

but seriously, 100x better than anything I could do.

[Anonymous No.1527771]

>>1527761
Lol. When I final sand they either stay or go, I don't care. I guess I could scratch them back in to be consistent at the end or keep sanding until they are all gone.

[Anonymous No.1527790]

I wanna make a shelf similar to pic related but floating/ mounted on the wall.
If I use 18mm strong oak wood do I need any form of joint at all or should I just glue the flat sides together at the corners. Im a bit worried that it might not be strong enough but the most force that should ever be applied to it should be a book leaning against one of the walls (or eventually me moving to a different place, which I guess might be a bit more worrisome).
Also how should I ideally mount it if I want it to be as invisible as possible? Should I just use the bars for single floating shelfboards but like three of them at different heights? I dont plan to completely crowd the shelf so I figure that I wont need one on each board but the entire thing itself will probably be preetty damn heavy...

[Anonymous No.1527818]

>>1527640
They're the wrong way kek
Reverse them so the wide parts of the tails are on the inside of the joint, not the outside
The joint will actually hold itself together that way
Still good effort for your first go and good lad for sharing lol

[Anonymous No.1527821]

>>1527818
My bad I meant the other way round, wide part of the tails on the outside, the tails being on the top piece in your pic

[Anonymous No.1527840]

>>1527790
Sounds like you would be relying on gluing end grain to long grain, which is not a strong joint. You would want to cut a dado so the vertical boards fit into the horizontal ones.

[Anonymous No.1527849]

>>1527840
This, also metal T brackets on the backside to reduce the stress from side wards swaying on the joint. 18mm is quite thin, the wood in your pic is at least twice as much.

[Anonymous No.1527857]

>>1527840
Alright thanks! Dont have a dado but I have done joints like this with a router before. I will probably leave out the front two centimeters so it still looks like its just the surfaces but that should be easy enough.
I did kinda hope I could get away without it just cause itd be so much less work but I also think that shear stress would be too much...

>>1527849
>metal T brackets
Ah thats a good idea! Hadnt thought about that at all but should be a great way to increase stability.
I definitely want to have thinner walls than in my pic but the layout is sorta similar. The only difference really is that Ill have L joints as well as T, for which the dado joint wont work as neatly. Any ideas for that? I guess I can just accept that the joint is visible there, since all alternatives that I can come up with involve very annoying routing...

[Anonymous No.1527865]

>>1527857
>Any ideas for that
Do a mitre joint, post pics.

[Anonymous No.1527867]

>>1527790
I would use sliding dovetails, likely blind, no clamps or fasteners need in assembly, just glue and knock it together.

[Anonymous No.1527871]

>>1527867
also, add 4 thin feet, even a 1/8" would be enough. If your floors are flat, they ain't going to stay that way.

[Anonymous No.1527880]

>>1527640
Jesus Christ.

You lovable scamp.

[Anonymous No.1527891]

>>1527821
Yes I see that now. Live and learn tho.

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'll continue to practice. I appreciate the constructive criticism.

[Anonymous No.1527915]

>>1527891
Don't worry, buddy, I feel like a retard with the spatial thinking required by woodworking too, sometimes.

And I was decent at geometry and algebra back in the day, but that doesn't seem to help. Only practice does, so just keep at it.

Slightly gay, but there is truth in the saying "the master has failed more times than the apprentice has even tried".

[Anonymous No.1527923]

>>1527640
Why do you hate your wife? There are easier ways to ask for a divorce.

[Anonymous No.1527929]

>>1527915
Thanks dad. It is definitely a spatial thing but I appreciate your words of wisdom and encouragement

[Anonymous No.1527949]

>>1527409
You seem to care, child.

[Anonymous No.1527953]

>>1527685
Was thinking the exact same thing.

[Anonymous No.1527958]

>>1527720
I think there's a carpenter's vice at the bottom of the picture. Wonder if OP used it?

[Anonymous No.1528006]

>>1527640
This is what happens when you don't use a marking knife.

[Anonymous No.1528007]

>>1528006
...or fine motor skills.

[Anonymous No.1528031]

>>1527640
I like how all the tools are artistically arranged around this abomination.

[Anonymous No.1528044]

>>1527640
Putting dovetails into the edge of a board is rather weak, unless it is a sliding dovetail, generally we put them on the ends of the board for this reason. Their purpose is to increase the surface area of the weak cross grain joint so we can get more glue in there.

Long grain to long grain is a very strong glued joint as is, the longer the grain the better, cutting dovetails into the long grain like you did just breaks that nice long grain joint up with short bits of weak cross grain.

[Anonymous No.1528048]

>>1527790
>butt joints
I wouldn't trust this as a hanging shelf with only butt joints and glue. There are a lot of options that will look the same from the front: biscuit join, dowels, kreg screwed in the back, mortise or dado.

Normally you'd conceal the brackets when you hang it. I might dowel it to the studs if I was feeling saucy and didn't want it to ever come off the wall. You could kreg it to the wall and plug your screw holes.

[Anonymous No.1528266]

>>1527673
I laughed so fucking hard at this, probably just the 4am giggles but thank you I needed that

[Anonymous No.1528411]

>>1527701
>save the trees

Or as they do in Tulsa "up with trees" on big ass wooden signs all over the place.

I fucking swear. Between that bullshit and their left on and off ramp faggotry that place needs abandond like pyong yang or whatever and fucking start over without a bunch of architects and city planners high on acid

[Anonymous No.1528412]

>>1527732
Oh absolutely man. Altho i would sugest throwing most of them under an awning so they don't take up half of your shop when you are building a finger box

[Anonymous No.1528413]

>>1527759
Man. You got any nore build picks. I really like this.

Also i find a big bracket for my car lift and a light car makes for a great reolacement for a few hundred clamps

[Anonymous No.1528415]

>>1527915
Can confirm. I bet money i have made more dicks in the last few years than the collective of all peen producers on 4channel. Still fail all of the time.

Spring time should be another epic failure bit it should make for a funny thread if i can somehow edit the pics

[Anonymous No.1528637]

>>1528415
Just to confirm, you have dovetail joint phalluses that you build? Can you share these and make this the best thread of 2018-2019?

[Anonymous No.1528832]

Good shit, OP. My first try was almost as bad. The second or third attempt gets a lot better.

I'm still a punter but my boxes come out decent. I'll post my first try if I can find it so you anons can get a good lol.

get a jap saw, wheel gauge, 6" square and 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" chisels.

Watch a paul sellers dovetail video if you want painstaking instructions on the process.

I thing half blind dovetails are easier because you only have to worry about one side being a tight fit.

There's a youtube video by a guy named John Bullar that;s good - no bs and to the point but shows you every step.

[Anonymous No.1528870]

>>1527320
Cabinet makers were leaving these 200 years before Krenov.

My Federal period desk has them

[Anonymous No.1529388]

[Anonymous No.1529458]

>>1529388
Try doing that with pine.

[Anonymous No.1529631]

>>1529458
Any attempts of fine woodworking with pine are basically BDSM.

[Anonymous No.1529669]

>>1529388
I hate joints like that, it is purely for showing off and not a very robust joint. It is not even that hard of a joint to cut, it is just two small half pins with a single small central pin, between that there are two large pins which have been subdivided into 3 pins the size of the small pins. It looks impressive to those that do not know but it is no harder to cut than dovetails, just more work to lay out.

These 'impossible' dovetails also look retarded from above, they look like backwards dovetails like in >>1527640, there is a reason they are always shown from this angle.

A well thought out, proportioned and executed dovetail will always impress me more.

>>1528870
Layout marks have been getting left for as long as people been using layout marks, but thanks for letting us know that you have a 200 year old federal desk.

[Anonymous No.1530113]

>>1529388
Get that jap shit outta here

[Anonymous No.1530302]

>>1526596
Have a look at Paul Sellers. His explanations are very good
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=paul+sellers+dovetail

A craftsman takes the extra pride in his work and stops scribe lines from marring his piece.

[Anonymous No.1530457]

all this argument about scribe lines, why wouldn't you just plane the piece so the lines don't show? Or is there some hidden aesthetic that i'm not seeing?

[Anonymous No.1530471]

>>1530457
planing the scribe lines might not be a bad idea, but now you're planing edge grain and need more setup to mitigate tear out. Or an extremely sharp plane iron. Both of which are likely beyond OPs current ability. In that case, not needing to do any of that in the first place is probably best, for OP.

[Anonymous No.1530686]

>>1530471
Tear out is not really an issue here, you just plane towards the center of the board, that way the piece itself supports the end gain. If you want to avoid layout lines showing it is better to just not scribe all the way across on the outside, just scribe the waste, or just do the long scribe light enough that you can easily scrape or sand it off. You only need the scribe to be deep enough to catch the edge of a sharp chisel, not very deep at all.

[Anonymous No.1530830]

>>1530457
It's just a matter of preference. Some also like the lines cause they show off the handmade nature of the joint. Also, for me anyway, very light scribe lines are too hard to see.

[Anonymous No.1530836]

>>1530830
>very light scribe lines are too hard to see.

scribe lines are nigger tier

[Anonymous No.1530839]

>>1530836

rude

[Anonymous No.1531764]

>>1527640
Get the fuck of here!

[Anonymous No.1534511]

>>1530839
>You will never go picknicking with your beautiful wife and your children
Why even live?

[Anonymous No.1535520]

Need some help or at least advice here guys. I wanted to make planter boxes for our kitchen to put herbs in, especially during the winter when they die outside, and just went ahead and started building the boxes always assuming that Id find a solution for the problem of how to insulate them against the moisture from the soil I want to put in them eventually, but here I am with finished boxes and still dont really know...
Originally I wanted to put some sort of plastic foil in them, like for small garden ponds, and just glue that on the inside, but really thatd be a huge mess since Id have to fold and bend it to fit the measurements of the inside volume and stuff, so I think I need a better plan. Is there something I can spray on the inside to protect the wood? Figured something like epoxy would maybe work but I have no experience with that at all.

[Anonymous No.1535528]

>>1535520
First off, it's summer in Australia right now, so fuck off troll. Second: sativa, huh? Figures...

>>1530839
Do you know where you are?

[Anonymous No.1535538]

>>1535528
Are you talking about the salvia? Because thats just sage

[Anonymous No.1535562]

>>1535520
Plastic folded and STAPLED into the box is the standard way, when spring rolls around and the plants return to the garden, you just rip out the plastic and put in some fresh plastic come fall.

You can also treat it like a clay pot, just dump soil right into the wood, set the whole thing on a tray to get any water that gets out, done that way for centuries. I am sure some are going to react and say MOLD! you will die because the wood will get moldy and you will breath it in, but any decent potting soil is going to be full organic mater rotting away.. If you use a suitable wood, it will last a good many years.

[Anonymous No.1536175]

>>1535562
>Plastic folded and STAPLED into the box is the standard way
What kind of foil should I use then? And wont stapling it provide ways for the moisture to leak through? I think this is how Im gonna do it though. Probably wont take them out during summer though, which shouldnt be a problem with the plastic I guess.
>You can also treat it like a clay pot, just dump soil right into the wood, set the whole thing on a tray
Ill hang them on the wall so thats not an option. Its oak with an oil finish though so I hope that it can take what little moisture seeps through the foil.

[Anonymous No.1536208]

>>1536175
No matter what you do water will get through eventually, just staple near the top and the staple holes will not really be an issue. Any decent heavy plastic film will do, does not even need to be that heavy since it is fairly protected.by the soil and you will just replace it when it comes time to replace the soil. I have used old shower curtain, plastic garbage bags, window film, most anything will work. You will double the lifespan of the box by carrying the plastic up onto the top edge and stapling there since it will help keep water from getting between the plastic and the wood, but you either have to accept seeing the plastic on top or going through the work to hide it.

Oak will last just fine, in this use most any wood will last a good number of years. It may start to rot on the inside, but it will take a very long time for it to cause failure. Just scrape out any rot and fresh oil when you replace the soil.

I have some outdoor planters just made with pine, 5 years old now and just starting to rot despite being out in the weather 24x7 in a temperate climate and being unlined. probably have another 5 years before the rot causes issues, still contained to where the soil is in contact with the wood. Wood is more robust than most people think. How you join the pieces is the main thing, nails and screws will draw water into the wood and fail due to the localized rot, use joinery and a good outdoor grade glue, avoid metal fasteners.

[Anonymous No.1536798]

>>1527640
WEW LAD this made my fucking day. That is some fantastic trolling m8

[Anonymous No.1536837]

>>1527640
>the rare troll teeth joint

[Anonymous No.1537848]

>>1527640
Must have been uncomfortable using a jamb saw as a gent saw

[Anonymous No.1538119]

>>1529669
>> It is not even that hard of a joint to cut, it is just two small half pins with a single small central pin

no...

get the fuck out of here, 28 out of the 36 cuts needed are compound cuts, there's so much that could go wrong with cutting that joint, it requires impeccable layout, sawing and chiseling skills to get a joint like that looking as sharp as it does.

I've probably cut more dovetails that anyone on this board and I doubt even I would get that looking so sharp on a first attempt.

[Anonymous No.1538310]

>>1538119
Compound angles do not matter when freehanding with hand saws, it is still sawing down a line. You layout one side, cut it out, use it to scribe the other side and cut that out.

The only difference between this non-sense and a dovetail is the layout work is twice as much, as I already said.

>I've probably cut more dovetails that anyone on this board and I doubt even I would get that looking so sharp on a first attempt.

Yeah, right there you prove that you are bullshitting or that most if not all the dovetails you have cut are with a router and a jig.

First attempts generally are not perfect, they are were we figure things out and learn, you are talking out your ass.

[Anonymous No.1538387]

>>1527640
This is why I come to 4chan.
Made my day, lad.

[Anonymous No.1539452]

>>1538310
You can't use the one side to scribe another. The only reason that works for standard dove tails is because there's only one angle involved.

If you scribed the pins on to the tail board theyd fit at the bottom when joined but have gaps at the top.

I've been doing this shit for a living for 10 years. I've never used a jig for any dovetails. The only shortcut I've ever used it using a hollow chisel morticer to remove waste from half blinds.

[Anonymous No.1539465]

>>1538310
Yes, it's still sawing down a line, but you clearly don't understand compound angles, you can't use one side to scribe the other.

Look here: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Prepare-Sunrise-Dovetails-Japanese-Dovetail/

You have to layout all that shit in advance and it's far more complex than standard dovetails... which you don't even need to layout if you have an ounce of skill (e.g. the method Frank Klausz uses).

I've been making a living from this shit for 10 years now. I never use routers or jigs for hand cut dovetails because my clients pay for hand cut joinery, the only shortcut I occasionally use is removing the waste from half-blind dovetails with a hollow chisel mortiser.

[Anonymous No.1539612]

>>1539465
>I never use routers or jigs for hand cut dovetails
Just like when scribing a dovetail you do not scribe the entire thing, you scribe two lines for each tail/pin in just one of the 5 surfaces that you will be dealing with, you then fill in the rest with your marking gauge, square and dovetail/bevel gauge. Every important measurement that you need in this joint you have established when cutting the first half of the joint, you can scribe enough of the important stuff, even with these compound angles, to allow you to fill in the rest with your templates/bevel gauges, marking gauge and square. It is the same process, you just end up playing connect the dots as much as connect and transfer the lines.

Consider that a lesson in how to layout EVERY joint instead of how to lay out XX joint.