House Wiring

[Anonymous No.1411899]

Electrician thread

[Anonymous No.1411901]

>>1411899
So, which one is correct?
And why EU doesn't have obligatory spark (or how it is called) breaker?

[Anonymous No.1411903]

>>1411899
Copper and aluminum will gall together and form an unbreakable bond

[Anonymous No.1411905]

>>1411903
Correct, you just need to weld something, or use some heavy-duty heater, so it will create arc and fix itself.

[Anonymous No.1411917]

>>1411901
I'm doing the bottom right now for aesthetics am I really retarded?

[Anonymous No.1411919]

>>1411901
What's the purpose of the separate ground?

[Anonymous No.1411927]

>>1411919
Some niggers said me, that it is forbidden to route ground wire through appliance, and that socket is indeed an appliance. If you follow their logic, powerstrips are illegal
But in my home (which was wired by certified electrician by the way) everything is routed like first.
>>1411917
Dunno, but I think yes, since it is not necessary and creates too many fail points. But if you solder or weld wires you'd be fine.

[Anonymous No.1411992]

>>1411927
>>1411919
earth shouldn't be daisy-chained because if the device fails all other sockets wouldn't have a ground connection anymore.

not sure about sockets tho.

[Anonymous No.1412000]

>>1411899
The Western Union Splice is always best for permanent/semi-permanent joins.

[Anonymous No.1412004]

>>1412000
how you go from D to F?

[Anonymous No.1412055]

>>1412004
D and F are variations, they allow more solder to flow into the joint, process is the same to get to any of the end results.

When properly made these splices are stronger then the wire they were made with and have the nice advantage of when under tension they tighten in on themselves. They also can be pulled through walls unlike the alternatives.

[Anonymous No.1412059]

Riddle me this. Any problem if I wire up a 12v psu to my 230v ac roof plug and run all my led strips from there with 2-3 meter wires.

[Anonymous No.1412061]

>>1412055
>solder
If you're soldering anyway then why even bother with all this shit?

[Anonymous No.1412062]

>>1412059
Wire resistance causes voltage loss. Depending on the thickness of the wire you use and the amps you run through them, it may not matter much. You can look up calculators to see how much loss there is.

[Anonymous No.1412069]

>>1412062
Longest connections 3m long with 2mm thick copper wire. Psu running a total of 1,5Amps when all the strips are on.

[Anonymous No.1412072]

>>1412061
not him but how do you solder two wire together?
laying them side by side puts all the strain on the solder so you need to twist them

[Anonymous No.1412073]

>>1412069
That's a overkill wire if the 2mm is the conductor diameter, you get about 0.1V drop.

[Anonymous No.1412076]

>>1412072
You're not supposed to have so much strain on the wire that the solder gets damaged by it in the first place. It's one thing in industrial applications, but in anything you might be soldering at home, you shouldn't ever be needing that added strength.

[Anonymous No.1412082]

>>1412073
No 2mm is the outer diamemeter including the insulation. Sorry i dont know gauges

[Anonymous No.1412093]

>>1412082
That doesn't really say anything about the cable, insulation thickness can be anything. Most cables have the AWG or the square mm size of it printed on the insulation, if not, try to make a rough measurement. Also, are all strips connected to one big loop, or do you have individual cables from the PSU to each strip? The latter divides the load.
https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

[Anonymous No.1412103]

>>1412082

It is not measured like that. The thickness refers to the conductor where as the insulator has a separate rating.

[Anonymous No.1412127]

There's literally nothing wrong with using caps, you people are autistic

[Anonymous No.1412129]

>>1412127
They're the gayest out of the available choices

[Anonymous No.1412169]

>>1412127
Marrett + Electrical tape
Will last longer than the wire insulation

[Anonymous No.1412191]

>>1412129
They are the fastest and cheapest of the available choices too.
You want me to raise my rates for no actual benefit or increase in utility or performance?

[Anonymous No.1412252]

>>1412061
Solder is not glue, solder is to prevent oxidation forming in the joint. The first version does not need solder indoors assuming it is well formed. Any solder joint is only slightly stronger then the mechanical joint you make before soldering.

[Anonymous No.1412338]

>>1411992
It shouldn't be chained via appliance, but socket is not an appliance.

[Anonymous No.1412339]

>>1412127
Yes, caps are better that bare twist.
But it is 'serviceable' connection, so you can't bury it in wall under plaster.

[Anonymous No.1412348]

>>1412055
Used these several times to pull cat5 through a wall to replace old IW

Cut half the pairs off of the old and new cable and splice and tape. Usually pulls through

If it doesn't you were fucked anyway

[Anonymous No.1412360]

Interesting channel for anyone in the UK:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgtbE9w_d-u2AvPp3WBlPfQ

[Anonymous No.1412373]

>>1411901
>wire nuts on sockets
your cardboard house deserve to burn into ashes

[Anonymous No.1412413]

>>1412373
Wirenuts are OK. They work pretty good with 16A. They don't heat as much as WAGO, and they were tested by time. Like wire-twist.
Anyway, I prefer to solder, since I'm electrical engenigger.
And no, I live in concrete man cave.

[Anonymous No.1412487]

>>1412373
I'll just leave this here:
https://youtu.be/2uYD8e7idnY

[Anonymous No.1412652]

>>1412487
Wow, how good does wire nut conduct. Much better that Wago.
But I've to admit, Wago is just simplier to use.

[Anonymous No.1412735]

>>1411901
Top one at least in Finland. The grounding is different in Spain and the former soviet euro countries if i remember correctly.

[Anonymous No.1412740]

>>1412487
aside of the fact that wirenuts are ugly, retarded and everything wirenutted looks like some nigger engineer "fixed it", what dost that prove?

[Anonymous No.1412798]

>>1412740
that they all work the same, and you fuckers can stop whining about which one is better.

[Anonymous No.1412808]

>>1412798
crimps are better.

[Anonymous No.1412856]

>>1412487
The problem is those were all nice new shiny connections. I want to see what would happen if he built another test rig but left it for a year before he tried it: would oxidation affect performance?

[Anonymous No.1412860]

>>1412856
It won't since wire nut squishes wires hard, and in contact points there is no air.
I had those for 40 years in my house, no problem, I run kettle (2kW, 10A) - still doesn't heat.
Wago - same story, squishes hard, so air barely causes corrosion. Also there are wagos for aluminium with paste, that prevents oxidation.

And if you're joining wire nuts in bathroom, I'd recommend use some electrical grease. You can get it in car parts shop. (But anyway, it is better to use soldered joints in bathroom, since it is just safer)

[Anonymous No.1412882]

>>1412856

[Anonymous No.1412884]

>>1412856
wire nuts make gas tight connections.

[Anonymous No.1412926]

>>1412069
How can you not work this out yourself? Absolute babby tier electrical calculation.

[Anonymous No.1412937]

>>1412856
Okay, I'll do it.
14 awg (or 2.5 mm^2, whatever will be available), wago, chinks wago, wire nut, twist, and bolt joint.
To make it rusty - I'll bath it in salty water.

[Anonymous No.1413033]

with wagos i just pump and dump but with something like wire nuts i think i would go for something like dielectric grease or solder to be honest, i simply don't trust nuts that aren't tapped for its gauge