QTDNTOT

[Anonymous No.1408657]

ok l'll start one of these. Questions that don't need their own thread.

Can anyone here tell me the name of the tool this guy has in his left hand?

Preferably in English, but it would also be great if someone new it in Norwegian.
¨(if you know it in Norwegian; would you also know where to get one?)
Tnx in advance

[Anonymous No.1408659]

>>1408657
In english its a "hawk"
as in, hawk and trowel.
in norwegian i have no idea, try a diy store lol.

[Anonymous No.1408660]

>>1408659
yeah. Tnx. I've tried everything from hobby to painting/plastering experts shop. We had them all over the place in the 80's and 90's
(thats when the schoolbooks are from ;) but the tool is not mentioned and nowhere to get. While they use it in every other country? XD

[Anonymous No.1408666]

Looks like a pussebrett, but I'm no mason. Available at any non-shit building supply store.

>>1408660
>XD
Stop.

[Anonymous No.1408668]

I recommend Kirk Giordano if you want to learn about plastering. I've watched his stuff the past few years, he is very good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THMy4W5IrTI

[Anonymous No.1408669]

>>1408666
Are you saying it looks like one of these?

[Anonymous No.1408670]

>>1408668
yes tnx i know plastering but thanks for the link. This tool is vital when plastering big projects.

[Anonymous No.1408672]

>>1408669
More like pic related, they come in a variety of shapes and sizes

[Anonymous No.1408674]

>>1408672
Yeah.. no. It is a square with a perpendicular handle.

[Anonymous No.1408675]

>>1408670
Yea hawks are tough to work with at first, but definitely are handy when you get the hang of it. What type of plaster work do you do?

[Anonymous No.1408677]

>>1408675
most jobs from plastering plasterboards to grout/concreting clayaggregateblocks and bricks. Not sure what its all called in english.

Just gotten into the concrete/mortar and masonry part of things. fasads, innside walls ceilings etc.

[Anonymous No.1408679]

>>1408677
facades*

just came across a really old article wher someone suggested making your own out of plywood. i guess this works for the masonry part but unsure with plaster and mud

[Anonymous No.1408681]

>>1408677
This guy uses swimming pool trowels to apply and skim coat with to get things really flat. He says the rounded edges don't make lines. I want to buy one and try it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_SRyTIVMbU

[Anonymous No.1408683]

>>1408677
>most jobs from plastering plasterboards

some expert plaster/drywall guys use two identical large (12 inches or more) mudknives, and work the mud or plaster back and forth, shaping it on one knife so they can load the precise amount and arrangement on the other. I've seen guys do it up on step ladders and extension ladders.

[Anonymous No.1408685]

>>1408681
>He says the rounded edges don't make lines.

I can't see how that helps; you would still have some sort of ridge at the ends, which you lay down with the straight part of the blade, whether the ends are sharp corners or not.

[Anonymous No.1408687]

>>1408683
yeah. tnx this is the usual method. This is what im used to. but the mud i use dont need that much work it seems and a hawk is very practical when you do what i think is called whole plastering( of an uneven surface)

[Anonymous No.1408690]

>>1408685
if you wet the blade so its dripping with water and dont apply any force when dragging it over the wall you will get rid of lines and edges. TOP-tip

[Anonymous No.1408693]

>>1408690
forgot to say this works even better if you have an elastic rubber/plastic knife/trowel

[Anonymous No.1408704]

>in his left hand
>>1408669
>>1408672
>>1408683
>>1408681
Retards.

It's a drywall, or wal-board, or plaster, etc.. "hawk" - maybe called a "trowel" but that's usually reserved for another item.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Board-Tools-12-1-2-in-x-12-1-2-in-Aluminum-Hawk-47-002/100377303

Anon, you should try going to a specialty painting shop if you don't have big-box stores

[Anonymous No.1408707]

>>1408704
>retards

Easy there

[Anonymous No.1408709]

>>1408704
The hawk holds the plaster. You apply it with a trowel.

[Anonymous No.1408749]

Anyone know how to make a 3 phase motor work on house power? Got the motors from a washer and dryer and I want to use them, boards were fried so no joy in just reusing those.

My idea was to mount a distributor housing/cap on an old single phase motor and use that to create the 3 phase, does that sound feasible?

[Anonymous No.1408754]

Would this be the right board for "interior design"? Maybe /fa/? I want to deep clean and reorganize my house and want some input on where to put the desk, couch, bed etc. Or even better, have there been threads about this kind of thing before that i can read through archives? Thanks anons.

[Anonymous No.1408756]

>>1408749
Put a suitable capacitor between two of the phases or something, I don't remember the details but this is how it's _always_ done with literally any AC motor. Just google it

[Anonymous No.1408763]

>>1408756
I tried googling around but maybe I'm just bad at google, everything I found was just "buy this $600 converter!"

[Anonymous No.1408891]

>>1408749
find a neighbor who's on the other set of phases and run a jumper to your house from his extra leg.

[Anonymous No.1408954]

Does anyone know the name of this style of this light fixture? It is made by Hinkley and is model 2376AS of the 'Nantucket Collection'. I've tried searching for Nantucket style lighting but I haven't had any luck. I have a house from the 1950s that has similar outdoor lighting and I want to try and find something that matches more closely. Searching for 'vintage brass outdoor light fixture' hasn't produced very many similar results.

[Anonymous No.1408981]

Does it have foam/sponge at the base? if so that's a "float"

[Anonymous No.1409018]

>>1408954
>Hinkley and is model 2376AS of the 'Nantucket Collection'.

I literally googled that.

[Anonymous No.1409021]

>>1408677
>>1408657

Weld a bolt at the center of a 2mm thick square metal sheet (of proper size). Buy or make a cheap wooden handle, drill a larger hole in it and fill it with 2 part epoxy and stick it on the bolt

voila

[Anonymous No.1409023]

Does anyone know of a good material to use for casting zinc? Delft clay I heard is good, but it's expensive as hell. Anyone know of a cheaper alternative?

[Anonymous No.1409037]

How do I repair this corner? it's MDF, I've thought about putting wood glue on/in it and clamping it back together, would that work?

[Anonymous No.1409085]

>>1409037
Use 2 part polyester or epoxy glue. Wood glue wont bind to acrylic surface on vertical face. Clamp for 24 hours.

[Anonymous No.1409112]

>>1409085
and just smear it on? or try and push/ inject it in?

[Anonymous No.1409187]

>>1409037
Find out why it's broken first. make sure everything is seated correctly, not bent out of shape, etc.

If it's a drawer front you could also put in a screw from the inside.

[Anonymous No.1409189]

>>1408954
And the one from Hinkley is too expensive or out of stock or what?

How similar does it have to be? I searched for "brass outdoor light fixture" and found a couple that looke reasonably similar.

[Anonymous No.1409404]

Any idea of how I can fix or at least mitigate this little ding on my kindle screen? My first idea was a tiny dab of clear nail polish.

[Anonymous No.1409414]

>>1409189
It doesn't look close enough to the ones I've got. The ones I have are basically a brass box that is more rectangular in shape. The same type of glass with metal mullions but they are taller than they are wide unlike these which are more squarish. They also lack the solid brass walls that slant in above the bulb. So, it is just the rectangular box with the little decorative fob on the top. They are also a lot smaller overall than that one. It is about 10 inches tall by 5 wide. Mine are about 7 inches tall by 4.

[Anonymous No.1409536]

>>1409414

so I guess the old saying is actually true, about a picture being worth a thousand words...

[Anonymous No.1409542]

>>1409536
>a picture being worth a thousand words..


1It 2doesn't 3look 4close 5enough 6to 7the 8ones 9I've 10got.

The ones I have are basically a brass box that

is more rectangular in shape. The same type of glass

with metal mullions but they are taller than they are

wide unlike these which are more squarish. They also lack

the solid brass walls that slant in above the bulb.

So, it is just the rectangular box with the little

decorative fob on the top. They are also a lot

smaller overall than that one. It is about 10 inches

tall by 5 wide. Mine are about 7 inches tall

by 4.

derp 102 words

[Anonymous No.1409575]

Anyone able to help me identify the names of these electrical components I pulled put of PCBs?

[Anonymous No.1409577]

>>1409575

here's the easy ones

[Anonymous No.1409578]

room mate got a chain fly curtain. what's the best way to drill a hole above a doorway?

[Anonymous No.1409581]

>>1409577
Thanks. I'm especially interested in knowing what the upside-down thumb tack shaped component is. It is magnetic. Also I wonder if the yellow bottom left is a tantalum, and the top right are variable resistors because they are adjustable with a flathead driver. Also I wonder if that round diode has a particular name to it, or is it simply an old style component?

[Anonymous No.1409583]

>>1409575
I think the top right components with the cylindrical metal tops with three legs are called bell transistors. I just found that out.

[Anonymous No.1409594]

What should I do with all this pallet wood that just got delivered? It's terrible how much stuff you have to order just to get enough pallets for a project.

[Anonymous No.1409609]

>>1408685
I agree but I would think the rounded edge would be more forgiving with uneven pressure applied.

[Anonymous No.1409695]

How should I go about laying a thin (1 inch/25mm) layer of cement over existing concrete slab that wasn't leveled properly? It's for my workshop/shed, maybe 3x5m (so 15m2).

I was thinking of getting some light steel reinforcing mesh and laying it over that.

[Anonymous No.1409877]

>>1408954
are you planning to replace the light fixture? whats wrong with it now?

>>1409695
>wasnt leveled properly
are you sure it just didnt sink? if so, adding more mass will just make it sink more.

[Anonymous No.1409921]

>>1408657
Ta deg en tur på Tools eller Würth. Online funker. Tools bestiller det aller meste, selv til private.

[Anonymous No.1409950]

>>1409921
Keep it in English you fucking disgrace

t. Norwegian

[Anonymous No.1409953]

>>1409594
Can you take it apart without ruining it? It's a skill in itself depending on the nails used.

What do you need? Do you have an open space after the construction work? You could build a bench and a table pretty easily.

[Anonymous No.1409954]

>>1409950

most of it looks like english

[Anonymous No.1409983]

I have an excess of corrugated cardboard boxes. I was considering using this stuff as panels for personal frame and panel projects. Is this a bad idea? What else could I feasibly use this shit for that isn't meme tier pinterest housewife crafts?

Additionally I have an excess of (used) plastic mailers, does anyone know what kind of plastic these are? I recycle my own plastic so it would be helpful to know if they're a kind I can actually reuse.

I order a lot of shit and it would be nice if I could, in good conscience, break down and throw the shipping material into the scrap pile instead of having to go to the hassle of throwing it away.

[Anonymous No.1410005]

>>1409877
No, you're right. I'm not sure. But I'm in a sandy area not really known for major sinkage.

And the shed itself is brick, and the courses of bricks are still level.

I lean towards poorly laid due to other things on the property being skewiff. Like, different parts of that same slab are at different levels (noticeable along seams) which makes it infuriating moving anything on castors.

[Anonymous No.1410015]

Shouldn't it be QTDDTOT, OP? I posted such a thread a few minutes ago because I searched the catalog and their wasn't one up already. Then I saw this QTDNTOT so I deleted mine.
I hope you're happy. Because of you, I might be convicted of involuntary threadslaughter, you absolute cad!.

Anyway: hi.
According to this map, I live in a city on the cusp of zones 6b and 7a. I already have a small urban garden of various plants but I think I'd like to try planning a fish pond for next year, perhaps with koi or goldfish. Is my area too cold, you think, to winter my fin-y friends?

A second QTDDIOT: anyone have luck growing corn in a planter or small back patio plot? I wanna grow baby corn cuz I can't find any in my area anymore and I fucking HATE that shit in the jar/can. Tastes vaguely of what I'd imagine rimming unwashed maize asshole would.

Maybe a third question? My walls are as white as country music festival and as barren as the characters from Handmaid's Tale. I've no eye for art at all but have an idea: picture frame terrariums/planters with vined/tendriled plants. How would you go about hanging something like that?

[Anonymous No.1410021]

>>1409983
I've used cardboard to train young bamboo to grow into twisty shapes, but I doubt that interests you too much, sorry.
I've heard of people making cold smokers out of cardboard.

[Anonymous No.1410024]

>>1408657
"Sparkel" in norwegian
"Truelle" in French

[Anonymous No.1410069]

>>1409877
I am adding light fixtures. I currently have 4 on the house and I want to add three more around a carport that was added but never properly lit. It would be nice if they more closely matched what I've already got. The originals also somewhat match a bunch of the light fixtures inside the house so I would like to keep as many original things as possible. Buying 7 new fixtures would cost almost a grand at the prices Hinkley is charging and they don't even match that well, so I want to find more options.

[Anonymous No.1410216]

What's a good method for getting through boarded up doorways and windows on derelict buildings?

There are plenty of interesting buildings in my area that I would love to explore inside but every entrance is strongly boarded with (most of the time) Phillips screws.

[Anonymous No.1410220]

Forgot picture.

[Anonymous No.1410260]

>>1410216
Cordless screwdriver.

[Anonymous No.1410330]

>>1410216
>>1410220
>>1410260
Just find out who owns it and ask them for permission. If they say "no" you may be able to sway them if you offer to waive any liability in writing for injuries/etc and get a permit to keep on you in case a cop sees you.

If there's shit you want inside then you would have a way to offer to purchase it rather than stealing it.

[Anonymous No.1410368]

>>1410015
If you have am in ground pool, you may be okay for your fish. The ground stays at a more stable temperature than the air. Look up aquaponics blogs for more info.

Corn is dead easy to grow, but you may be too late. Corn is supposed to be "knee-high by the 4th of July".

Look into air plants. They don't need dirt or anything, and can be pretty cool looking.

[Anonymous No.1410385]

>>1408657
Can I shill a FB page on here? Shows the lowest prices an Amazon item has ever been.

[Anonymous No.1410402]

>>1409581
If you look at your diodes, the part numbers are stamped on the part. Google the numbers for data sheets. E.g. - 1N5188. Your transistors will be something like 2Nxxxx.

[Anonymous No.1410403]

How to harden already set epoxy?

I have some epoxy that isn't curing. The syringe came with one of those helical mixing tips but apparently it wasn't good enough. I Googled a bit and everyone just said to mix the resins really good. Not helpful at this point.

[Anonymous No.1410405]

>>1410403
You're kinda fucked, but you can a) wait and/or b) bake the thing.

[Anonymous No.1410410]

>>1410330
Thank you.

[Anonymous No.1410528]

>>1410368
No in-ground pool. According to the 2010 census, my area is just shy of 17k people per square mile. No space for a pool anywhere.

I was planning on growing the corn year next. I figured it's way too late this year. Thanks for the info about how easy it is to grow, but the question was if corn could grow in a pot as, since I live in a city, there's simply no ground space and I would guess it needs a lot of space, but idk.

Are any air plants vine-y/tendril-y? Haven't come across any yet. Either way, they might be a good idea as I'm thinking now that whatever implement I use to wall-mount the plants, they'd get very, very heavy after watering. Maybe I'll install some floating shelves which can withstand a good deal of weight and just have plants on them or s/t, idk. I'm still considering options. Six years a homeowner and my house is still as plain as Amish fashion sense.

[Anonymous No.1410533]

>>1408954
>
brass carriage light

[Anonymous No.1410597]

Any tips for winding your own springs?

[Anonymous No.1410712]

Is a propane camping stove enough to anneal a 10mm HSS drill bit? It's already broken in half from leaving it in my drill press for a month or so, thermal expansion probably got to it. I was thinking it would be a nice piece of stock to enter knife-smithing with. I don't have a bench grinder/sander so I was thinking I'd anneal it, beat the thing into shape, harden it, and sand the edge on by hand. But I've only a few ordinary camping stoves to try heating it with. Each piece would be 50-60mm long.

That's assuming HSS can be annealed and worked like I intend. I was just thinking to let it cool in a bucket of sand, but that might be too quick from what I'm reading.

[Anonymous No.1410851]

>>1410528
Air plants can look like this, but can also grow much longer/ be more viney. These are young ones you can buy on Amazon, but you should go to a nursery or horticultural store to get some advice. They can help with the corn question too. Research is showing that koi might be okay in a winter scenario, but they'd need a large enough body of water to find a warm patch to go into torpor inside. Maybe a heated pipe to give them a place to rest?

[Anonymous No.1410855]

Hi guys, I had some friends over and one of them was using some shitty phone charger and one of the prongs have broken off inside the plug socket. Would it be safe enough to turn off the plug using the switch then take the front off the plug casing thing and pull out the stuck part or should I turn off shit at the main fusebox? in the uk if that makes a difference.

[Anonymous No.1410912]

>>1410712
Camp stove won't get hot enough.
Make a paint can forge: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po9EKcOj1uc

[Anonymous No.1410917]

>>1410597
use a drill, spring steel wire, and a steel rod mandrel with a hole or notch.

[Anonymous No.1410922]

>>1410385
Go forbit bro

[Anonymous No.1410932]

>>1410922
Screw it, only prints the tool category.
fb dot cum /BestToolDeals

[Anonymous No.1411010]

This brace or strut, I believe it's called, has broken in my attic over the garage. House built in the 50's and recently had foundation work around the garage to lift a corner and a side, so I think it's possible that it stressed the roof when it shifted.

There's another questionable looking thing a little further down that I think indicates some shifting as well.

Who would I contact to take a look at this to make sure my roof isn't gonna collapse?

[Anonymous No.1411013]

The ceiling on my screened in porch is cracking in some places, Can I just use normal joint compound to fill it in? I live in a very humid forest environment.

[Anonymous No.1411060]

If sparkly nail polish isn't conductive, can I make a very simple conductive ink by mixing it with a sufficient amount of graphite taken from a sketching pencil?
I'm trying to repair a membrane keyboards trace sheet with things I have on hand.

[Anonymous No.1411271]

>>1410912
Well at that point I'm buying a propane torch, for which I'd rather just use my toaster-oven's worth of nichrome and make an electric one. Thanks for the reply though.

[Anonymous No.1411291]

>>1410330
This will never work. They're just going to assume you will sue them anyway, are looking to rob the place, destroy the place, or looking for a place to shoot up.

[Anonymous No.1411297]

>>1411010
A picture farther back showing a little more how your roof is framed would help, but based on that your roof should be fine. It broke right at a knot which is the weakest point on that board. You should be able to replace that one or sister a new one next to it without much worry. If there was work done on the foundation all the stresses should be gone.

Also, 50s house? OSB wasn't widely used much back then, I think the roof has been redone once at least.

[Anonymous No.1411345]

I live in an apartment and want to get into woodworking, problem is, with the exception of my drill and my dremel, i cant really fit proper non hand held power equiptment, so itll all be hand tools. What would you reccomend for a beginner? I did a lot of woodworking in highschool but not much since so jot sure what ill actually need, and would prefer to avoid having to buy stuff as needed unless its a specialty tool. My first project is going to be something like this, a small work bench wit tool storage that folds down into a studio couch

[Anonymous No.1411635]

What is the best way to secure a 4cm wooden workbenchtop made out of beech to a 40x40 mm steel frame? e.g. how far has the screw to be in the wood for max retention etc.

[Anonymous No.1411636]

>>1410597
ThisOldTony made a video about that.

[Anonymous No.1411646]

>>1410597
Buy a lathe and do some math.

[Anonymous No.1411744]

I want a bigger desk but fucking nobody makes them large enough REEEEEE
I want to buy a 900*(1600-1800)*(35-45) mm slab of solid wood, preferably not too dark (something common like oak or beech is fine), but I looked in the obvious places and couldn't see one. I'd even be happy with a larger one I could cut to size. Does anyone have advice on where to find something like this in the UK/around London?

[Anonymous No.1411834]

>>1411345
start building and buy tools as you need them

[Anonymous No.1411851]

>>1411635
>for max retention
Use carriage bolts or T nuts rather than screws. Those will spoil the smooth wood surface though. If you want to use screws,
>for max retention
all the way through, obviously, then grind them flush with the surface. But if you want a continuous wooden surface, they'll have to stop below the surface. Say 70-75mm from tip to head. How many you'll need depends on what you'll be doing, the dimensions, and the arrangement of the frame and screws.

[Anonymous No.1411871]

What the actual fuck is it with people and "live edges" on wood now? I have a little hobby store where I produce furniture, and I get three or four calls a week about "live edge tables", and when I try to explain that I do not have any, but would be willing to discuss it, they mumble nevermind and hang up. live edges look dumb as shit, why are they so popular?

[Anonymous No.1411938]

>>1411345
how's your noise insulation?
when i had a basement workshop at the last place i lived, my wife would complain about the noise from my mallet and chisel when the bedroom was two floors up from there.
you have to consider your neighbors and whether or not they'll complain about the noise.

[Anonymous No.1411939]

>>1411744
make one. edge-glue with dowels from planks the length you need. if the wood you use is s4s all youll need is a drill, clamps and a jack plane.

[Anonymous No.1411941]

Can any of you help me with this worthless pillow block bearing. I bought it from the Chinese and its seated with a serious tilt, I reckon its about 10 degrees off. I have no idea what the procedure is to unseat it.

[Anonymous No.1411953]

>>1411941
Check in what plane it's badly seated. Best case you can get away with grinding down the base of the block, worst case you have to fill and rebore the bearing socket, at which point you'd be better off buying a new one unless you happen to have the right tooling.

[Anonymous No.1411965]

>>1411953
So essentially Im fucked. Excellent.

[Anonymous No.1411971]

>>1411965
You could however try redialing the mounting holes at the correct angle and just mounting it up on 2 to 4 shims.

[Anonymous No.1411972]

>>1411971
That's redrilling

[Anonymous No.1412009]

>>1411939
But then it won't be solid, and will have visible seams along its length.

[Anonymous No.1412028]

>>1412009
Slap some veneer on it? Do some nice joinery/resin work to make the seam a feature instead of a blemish?

[Anonymous No.1412105]

>>1412028
That requires work
But these aren't bad ideas. Thanks for the advice

[Anonymous No.1412122]

>>1411938
I have one neighbor and shes deaf so should be fine

[Anonymous No.1412225]

>>1411297
Yeah fixing that one board is not a problem but the thing I'm concerned about is if there are other issues I'm not seeing. I don't hear any cracking sounds and I don't see any new cracks in the walls etc (foundation work was done almost a year ago now) so I ASSUME I'm good, but I'm also paranoid that my shit's gonna get wrecked.

Thanks for the info, also didn't catch the OSB up in there. Makes me curious as to when that was done; I do know the shingles at least were replaced recently.

[Anonymous No.1412316]

>>1411971
Heres a picture of the offending bearing. The tilt is angled at almost a 45 degree towards the left of the base.

[Anonymous No.1412359]

>drop towel in water
>it gets half soaked
>no matter how much detergent I use or how hot I run the washer/dryer it still smells like LITERAL FECES
how do I fix this? I will dump trisodium phosphate in my washer if that's what it takes because today's shitty detergents are nothing more than perfume

[Anonymous No.1412390]

>>1412316
Have to stuck a shaft in it and twisted it?
Many pillow block bearings are 'self-aligning'

[Anonymous No.1412403]

>>1412390
I doubt thats the case with this one. I've applied a metric fuckton of pressure to it and it hasnt budged. If it does self align its at pressures so high that my stepper motor would be destroyed trying to twist it into place.

[Anonymous No.1412485]

I got a retarded small window in an unjustifiable place in my house, it's really fucking annoying so i want to cover, it's not even a skylight i don't know why the fuck it's there. It's so small that bothering to install a curtain is not worth it. I'm just going to get a piece of cardboard painted black to cover it.

The thing is that i don't know shit about paint and i'm kind of worried about picking some kind of dangerous paint since it'll be in a small not ventilated space, what's a safe paint to have inside the house?

Picture somewhat related, but not my house.

[Anonymous No.1412489]

>>1412359
Have you tried soaking? If it's a white towel, soaking in bleach and an oxi style detergent might work. If not, try just soaking it FULLY in detergent for a day or two. If the smell is still there, the particles are still there. Agitation helps as well.

[Anonymous No.1412490]

>>1412485
What might be, indoor paint. Oil based works better but water based comes off easier.

[Anonymous No.1412493]

>>1408754
It does sound more like a /fa/ thing but who knows you can try starting a thread here on /diy/ and on /fa/ and see on wich board it takes off.

[Anonymous No.1412506]

>>1412403
That looks self aligning to me. Can you see the surface or the edge of the outer race anywhere? Self aligning bearings have a male semi-spherical outer race and mount into a matching female semi-spherical seat in the cast housing. Try tapping the race or the locking collar with a hammer. Once you get it aligned for your installation, it won't need to move again, so no your stepper motor won't be fighting anything once it's aligned the first go-round.

[Anonymous No.1412509]

>>1412403
>>1412506
here ya nob:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEOJkP3AwEE

[Anonymous No.1412512]

>>1412506
>>1412509
Color me retarded. I got her aligned now. Thanks mein nigger.

[Anonymous No.1412515]

>>1411871
Live edges are pretty gay, but if you have enough demand around you for them as you say, then why not whip some up? Get to parting fools from their money.

[Anonymous No.1412525]

>>1412490
Thanks. Gonna cover that fuck for good.

[Anonymous No.1412647]

Wind blew my glass patio table off the patio and shattered the glass.

Can I just pour resin into the frame to make a new tabletop?

I'd use wood covered in tuck tape to enclose the tabletop to make a mold.

[Anonymous No.1412661]

>>1412647
you can but it will be weak, probably too weak to use as a patio table top.

[Anonymous No.1412719]

Anyone know how much pressure a Presta valve can hold back? I'm thinking of using one to hold back compressed air in a tank much more resilient than an inner tube. I've seen anecdotal evidence that a Schrader can take upwards of 3000psi, is it safe to assume I could put a Presta through the same?

[Anonymous No.1412725]

Anyone here made a magnetic knife rack before?

Gonna rout out a bunch of staggered holes on the back of a piece of hardwood and epoxy in some rare earth magnets but not really sure what size magnets would be needed to securely hold kitchen knives/butchers knives?

[Anonymous No.1412727]

>>1412725
>rare earth magnets but not really sure what size magnets would be needed to securely hold kitchen knives/butchers knives?

Small ones will work great. Large ones will bend the knifes and might cause accident when you have to pull to hard.

[Anonymous No.1412730]

>>1412727
>Small ones will work great.

Thanks for the quick reply. I just placed an order on Amazon Prime for "small ones that will work great".

[Anonymous No.1412731]

>>1412730
That's weird that you would reply pretending to be me.

>>1412727
Thanks man. I hadn't considered big ones being too big.

[Anonymous No.1412733]

>>1412731
>I hadn't considered big ones being too big.

Go ahead and buy some large ones if the cost is ok, then fine tune the thickness of the wood between the magnet and the knife so that the large knives have plenty of support while smaller ones are held adequately but are easy to remove. That's assuming you're going to have some system to enforce where the knives are placed. If not you can still do the fine tuning if the magnets are too strong. If you buy magnets that are a bit too weak you might have issues with the larger knives.

[Anonymous No.1412734]

>>1412733

Well fuck. Thankfully I still have time to cancel the Amazon order, and change it to "some large ones if the cost is ok".

I love the new Amazon Prime system where you can order like that, by entering a product description.

[Anonymous No.1412780]

>>1412733
Good thinking. Might just use some shims to fine tune it a bit.

>>1412734
Fuck off.

[Anonymous No.1412787]

>>1412733
Personally I'd not have wood between them, but just inset each magnet in a length of wood in a hole of the same/slightly larger diameter, so it would look neat but still be a mm or so below the surface that the knives will sit against. Though it would have to be glued in strong enough. What's the best way to remove/place a knife on a magnetic rack to stop it from getting magnetised?

[Anonymous No.1412793]

>>1412787
>What's the best way to remove/place a knife on a magnetic rack to stop it from getting magnetised?

That's mostly a property of the knife steel. Whether you pull it directly off or slide it off to the side, the magnetic hardness of the steel determines how much magnetism is retained, while the permeability determines the level of flux when it is attached. So, you are probably going to have magnetic knives that can pick up paper clips, but you won't have knives jumping across the counter to stick to other iron/steel items.

[Anonymous No.1412803]

Got a new/used 1 pice fiberglass tub and 3 wall shower surround. I want to install it in my house but the color is horrible. Pretty sure it's gel coat. Can i just rough it up and have a boat repair shop paint it? Can i do it myself? Someone said it has to be like 140 degrees in the gelcoat room.

I could probably get a good fire going in there and get it that close but are the fumes flamable?

Pretty much identical to pic related but the piece of shit is pink and i would like to ad a shower door if any tips for that.

[Anonymous No.1412804]

>>1412725
Maybe get a garage one and gut it. Then you know wtf to buy exactly for diy

[Anonymous No.1412805]

>>1412647
Yeah but week af and expensive. I would just make a nice wood top

[Anonymous No.1412811]

>>1412803
tear out and make a new mold. Add\remove whatever features you want from the fiberglass body. But a large sheet of petg\plastic you have locally. Heat it and vaccum mold it over.

Use said mold for a personalized glass fiber thingy thang shower. Re-cast with a layer of colored silicone and re-sell for thousands as brand new where ever you bought it.

If you do it well and figure out the chinks. Build a portable vacuum former in a horse carrier\shipping container+crab meat insulation.


By 2019 You could easily mass produce this so make sure to steal\write good scripts for trading.

And now you can finally afford this.
https://www.nettavisen.no/na24/34-kvadratmeter-solgt-til-39-millioner-kroner/3423482310.html

To go with your bathroom.

[Anonymous No.1412813]

>>1412793
I guess a magnetised knife isn't as big an issue as a screwdriver, but I thought perhaps all the filings that come off it from sharpening it on a whetstone might stick to it and be a pain in that way. Now I just realised I could clean up my whetstone by rolling a magnet covered in clingfilm across it.

[Anonymous No.1412883]

>>1412719
Wait, wouldn't the force required to actuate one be proportional to the pressure within? A rough calculation puts that at 260N or 26kg-force. RIP that idea.

[Anonymous No.1412974]

Where can I get 2 or 3 ft of 1 inch (not flexible) electrical conduit? L's and HD only have 10ft lengths

[Anonymous No.1413004]

what should I get into if I like to do precision work and I'd rather work alone than in groups? I was thinking about mechatronics or electronics but I don't quite know which work fields do they encompass or which jobs can I get into with a technician degree

[Anonymous No.1413016]

>>1412974
>L's and HD only have 10ft lengths

and they cost what, 4 dollars? cut with a saw.

[Anonymous No.1413045]

>>1413016
$12 and I dont want it hanging out the window on the drive home

[Anonymous No.1413070]

>>1413045
>I dont want it hanging out the window on the drive home
carry a saw with you

[Anonymous No.1413082]

>>1413070
Thanks, honestly gonna do this

[Sheep man No.1413112]

Has anybody got the dimensions of a normal beehive frame? I just want to be able to use a bought extractor but DIY the actual hive.

[Anonymous No.1413150]

>>1413112
Define normal.

[Anonymous No.1413198]

>>1409578
Start with a drill

[Anonymous No.1413203]

>>1408657
it's a plastering hawk, famous from Shakespear, when Hamlet says "I am but mad north-north-west. When the wind is southerly, I know a hawk from a handsaw."

[Anonymous No.1413210]

>>1412725
Yes, just rout a straight path down the middle of the back of your rack leaving ~1/8" wood on the face and epoxy the magnets in there. fill the gaps in with something stiff and test it out before gluing

[Anonymous No.1413211]

>>1410855
I would turn off power to the receptical (plug) either at the breaker or a switch then I would just replace the plug, supper easy and less than 5 usd even if you buy a really nice plug

[Anonymous No.1413213]

>>1412647
thats like $60 worth of resin or $15 in scrap oak cutting from Home Depot, you do you, I'd do a wood top

[Anonymous No.1413216]

>>1412719
orders of magnitude more than either the tube or the tire can handle so its irrelevant

[Anonymous No.1413220]

>>1412803
you can paint fiberglass all day long but its always going to get fucked up long term.

I'd sand it, use a two part epoxy paint and a sealant/clearcoat or take it to a body shop for $400

[Anonymous No.1413228]

>>1413216
>I'm thinking of using one to hold back compressed air in a tank much more resilient than an inner tube
>its irrelevant
Not really into reading comprehension are you?

[Anonymous No.1413240]

Im hooking up a receptacle to run 240v with a 30 amp breaker and I got a question for people familiar with electrical. Whats the difference between the single pole and double pole breakers when it comes to wiring? This may seem like an odd question but Im confused, because when I go to add something to my cart on amazon the double is always shown with a 4 prong receptacle and the single with a 3 prong. Is this an actual rule, or is it simply reflecting a preference? Because I would like to hook up a 3 wire receptacle to a double throw breaker, but Im unsure if its a mandatory 4 wire configuration.

[Anonymous No.1413245]

>>1413228
no, I'm drunk.

[Anonymous No.1413249]

>>1413240
What do you mean by receptacle? Pics please.

[Anonymous No.1413250]

>>1413249
This is my imagined setup

[Anonymous No.1413268]

>>1413240
4 prong is 240 with a ground, 3 prong is 240 with a neutral only.
>the double is always shown with a 4 prong receptacle and the single with a 3 prong. Is this an actual rule, or is it simply reflecting a preference?
It's preference, and nothing is truly "mandatory"

[Anonymous No.1413270]

>>1413268
well actually let me correct that. any 240 you need the double breaker or else you won't be tapping into the opposing bus bars to give you the 240. Single breaker don't work with 240 period.

[Anonymous No.1413276]

>>1413270
This answered my question. Thanku san

[Anonymous No.1413283]

Okay, as you can clearly tell from my picture, I have a problem drilling a hole through some aluminum with a hand drill.
I have a 3/8 metal drill bit. It successfully drilled through the aluminum, however it gets stuck, and won't completely punch through the hole. It gets stuck at the very bottom, and the drill bit won't spin along with the drill. No matte how hard or little I push down, or how fast or slow I drill, it just gets stuck and won't spin. I can pull it in and out of the hole no problem, I just can't get it to complete the hole.
I don't have a drill press to use, so that's out of the question.
Thanks for any help.

[Anonymous No.1413288]

>>1413283
cutting fluid
u
t
t
i
n
g

f
l
u
i
d

like Tapmagic Aluminum for instance.

[Anonymous No.1413293]

>>1413004
i-is my question too dumb?

[Anonymous No.1413299]

>>1413004
i work for a small company doing mechanical design engineering but could have easily got the job with a cad cert / associates degree. It's pretty similar to what it sounds like you want except my autistic boss micromanaging my shit to be like the way he would have done it if he knew how to do CAD stuff. If I take you question literally though, I'd move to switzerland and make 2-3 watches per year at 300k/pop.

[Anonymous No.1413304]

>>1413288
I was using that 3-1 oil, but I'll get this a try. Thanks anon

[Anonymous No.1413313]

>>1413299
thanks for your answer. I'll look into clockmaking or mechanics-related trades

topic aside, I was asking because I think I can handle two or three years of mathematics and physics but I won't stand a whole engineering career of them. I was looking for an associates or technical degree on something with a wide field of work opportunities since I'm fresh out of high school and I'm not quite sure about what to do for the rest of my life. studying something that encircles a lot of stuff will help me choose which things do I like the most

[Anonymous No.1413341]

>>1413293
You arent going to find any field where you work alone, especially a meticulous one.

Working alone is for people working the front gate of a parking garage

[Anonymous No.1413342]

>>1413341
Warehouse work. You'll be "alone" 98% of the time. If you really wanted to you could even go months without saying much more then yes/no/ok and never raise any suspicion.

[Anonymous No.1413344]

>>1413283
Ive had this happen before. Its like nearing the end of the hole the drill bit tries to bite off more than it can handle. Either you cant physically hold the drill or the drill stalls, or the bit spins in the chuck etc etc.

What has worked for me, run the drill at full speed and brace yourself hard. Then SLOWLY lower the bit into the hole. You will feel it just barely hitting the bottom of the hole, vibrating and tapping because its an interrupted cut.
Just go real slow and that big gouge/bite your bit is getting stuck in will slowly get smaller and smaller until you punch through.

Also cutting fluid is a good idea. 3 in 1 is a poor cutting fluid, WD40 works great on aluminum. Tap magic or another proper cutting fluid is a must on steel if you want to save your drill bits from dulling.

[Anonymous No.1413425]

How unhealthy is it to have a homgym amd workshop in the same garage/room? Have a room in the basement that is unused and rather big with a door and window to the outside. I would like to keep the open space, but not sure if gym and workshop dust etc mix well.

[Anonymous No.1413496]

>>1413425
Clean up dust after you work and ventilate after you use chemicals, don't see why it would matter. You are stuck in the garage when you are working aren't you?

[Anonymous No.1413499]

>>1413496
Just wondered how long that stuff lingers around in the air. I usually wear a halfmask while welding (tig), grinding etc. and have the window fully open.

[Anonymous No.1413632]

Can i use this adapter with my drill and a wirewheel to clean tubing from the inside before welding or do I need a one of those expensive straight grinders? Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.1413644]

How does one get a finish like that? just clear coat?

[Anonymous No.1413655]

>>1408672
I work as a mason in swedish this is a called a stålbrett and I believe it's the same in Norwegian

[Anonymous No.1413660]

>>1413644

what, the metal or the wood?

I love this board.

[Anonymous No.1413661]

>>1413644
i think the black is just the untreated metal/steel, maybe something like a forge skin, thats why on the welding points its blank

so just clear coat should work/preserve

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1413664]

>4 amp
Will pic related do anything for a car? I could probably use it as a tender maybe right?

[Anonymous No.1413713]

Dunno if this is the right place to ask but I'll give it a shot

Does anyone have a good recommendation for small precision bit driver sets? This is missing in my tool collection and I'm borrowing my flatmate's (pic related) all the fucking time. While it gets the job done it feels like something a chinaman would lazily pull out of his rear end and the fucking joke of a box broke within a few weeks.
The bits are around 3-4 mm thick (1/8"?) as opposed to normal 1/4" bits, is this a standard?
I'm looking to get a set which will a) last me a lifetime b) give me a small boner each time I look at it due to its obvious quality c) have a borderline stupid amount of bits so that I'll be unlikely to ever say to myself "I actually don't have a driver for that" d) use a sensible case that's not gonna break or make me have to get my needlenose pliers to free the bits from their slots e) not break my bank and of course f) use a standard size as mentioned.
MASSIVE bonus points if it is non-magnetic and instead uses an alternative (solid, not annoying) method for fastening bits to the driver. No ratchet stuff, if they even exist in these sizes?

Looking for something made in Europe, USA or glorious Nippon.

[Anonymous No.1413748]

>>1413632
Ive used a mandrel and wire wheel on a drill before and it never seemed to work all that well. But fuck it, shits cheap and die grinders arent. If it sucks throw it in the toolbox and use it for something else.

[Anonymous No.1413751]

>>1413713
Ive never seen them but I have never really looked hard.
As crappy of quality as the walmart ones are, I havent had one of them break. They arent really under a lot of stress. And since they are cheap I have like 4-5 sets.

[Anonymous No.1413756]

>>1413751
Obviously I could do that but I don't have enough space to justify continously investing in dirt cheap shit tools, and I have a fetish for quality tools. Hence points a and b

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1413758]

>>1413664
And what kind of voltage should this little 12V battery be running when it’s nice and charged?

Any other way to test? The $7 HF meter has some battery reader but it’s only good for 1.5V or 9V and says all over “DO NOT USE FOR 12V BATTERIES”

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1413761]

>>1413756
>>1413713
Wiha has a lot of choices. If my Walmart set didn’t work just fine, I would be thinkin real hard about one of these.

Pic related is around $80 on Amazon.

[Anonymous No.1413782]

Whats the best place to get lowe's coupons?

[Anonymous No.1413789]

>>1410330
Not necessarily

>>1411291
>>1410216
If the property is up for sale or the owner might be interested in selling you can always act like a prospective buyer and they'll likely give you access to the property. Then you can take your pictures and fuck off.

[Anonymous No.1413795]

>>1410851
Apologies for the rather extreme delay in thanking you, but thank you. I'll look more into it.
A friend who's handier than I am (outside of minor home repairs, I mostly do mom-tier diy, like crocheting and shit) suggested I install weight-bearing shelves but I just wanna have the picture frame idea cuz I think it'd look dope as fuck. Alternately, maybe incorporate the shelving into the look somehow, like as a horizontal trellis for tendrils or something.
As for the fish, looks like I may go with goldfish in the end. They're hardier than koi are and need far less space. They're even generally happy in still water v water with a bubbler or something. Push comes to shove, I can always put an electrical line outside for a bubbler. My plan is to buy a nice ceramic pot, plug up and waterproof the drainage hole, stock up on a few 25¢ feeder fish from the pet store and buy some water plants and shit.
Lastly, I spoke with people at some plant-supply stores but they were about as useful as balls on a dildo. However, my google-fu finally turned something up: balconygardenweb.com
They suggest a small box or planter is large enough to grown a few stalks. Now, I only need to select the best variety to grow as baby corn and order some seeds.

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1413797]

>>1413795
Careful with the goldfish idea. Betta is the correct choice if you want to do plant vases or other small vessels with no filtration.

[Anonymous No.1413799]

>>1408954
Lmao i have a house on Nantucket and it has those exact same lights

[Anonymous No.1413853]

Okay so if I want to taste myself voluntarily and enough to be uncomfortable but not enough to be dangerous, how would you go about it?

I want 0 damage or risk of damage and variable intensity. So I thought using a circuit that provides the wanted maximum shock and then a potentiometer as a voltage divider should work to set the intensity.

Problem is I have no idea what voltage is safe. Those prank shock toys can reach high voltage (and thanks to ohms law and internal resistance that's also somewhat high current albeit only shortly), so I'm confused as to how I'd build this.

To get a high voltage I'd need a transformer. For a transformer I need AC. The second I use AC due to the body having some capacitance everything starts to get weird.

Any ideas?
Am I right in my assumption that I need to use AC to reach the voltages?
What do I need to care about to not electrocute myself? Which voltage over which time is safe?

I'm tempted to skip this, buy some cheap electroshock toy from AliExpress and mod it to change the power etc, but I'd prefer to research about it and understand it instead.
Thanks for pointing me where to look.

Lastly just to make clear: I do not want a stun gun or a taser, but a electrical shock that hurts from barely to pretty much.

[Anonymous No.1413855]

>>1413853
Fuck me writing on a phone. TASE not taste.

[Anonymous No.1413874]

>>1413644
>>1413661
>so just clear coat
Flood brand Penetrol works great for this. It's an oil based paint additive for making it soak in better but you can use it by itself on metal and it works as a clearcoat / rust halter (will preserve little surface rusts) and it doesn't form a skin on top of the steel it kinda soaks in but cures. Like linseed oil but more penetratey.

[Anonymous No.1413884]

>>1413855
Oh good I thought you were some fucking freak looking to try cannibalism and were going to ask what part of flesh to cut off and eat

just get one of those dog shock collars. it is a direct and continuous shock, not like a stun gun and definitely has the range you want

[Anonymous No.1413885]

anyone use something like this as a work light? I have the cheapo Ikea one but it's too flimsy. thinking of either making one or just buying one, but most of the ones for sale are designer items that cost a fuckton.

[Anonymous No.1413889]

>>1413885
I use one like that. The... gussets?... cracked and broke and I made new ones with 1/16" brass plate. Just that improved it at least 50% over original.

[Anonymous No.1413890]

>>1408657
I want a set of Knipex linesman's pliers (just a weekend warrior).

8" insulated or 9" ergonomic handle? 0208200 v 0202225

[Anonymous No.1413891]

>>1413853

a friend of mine built one of those. two metal plates wired up to a big old dc motor run with a hand crank on a podium. stand barefoot on the plates, crank the armature and zappo. the faster you crank the more the shock, it was pretty intense and I'm sure I was permanently a little dumber after using it a few times.

You could touch your body or other people to pass on the current- touching your own head while the motor was being cranked was like meth+LSD+forced orgasms. Saw a girl pee herself using it once. you could spin it fast enough to knock someone off the plates.

theoretically a human couldn't crank it fast enough to get the amps up too high- I think it was a 12v motor which would have maxed out around 1.2AMP anyway

[Anonymous No.1413894]

>>1413795
goldfish never stop growing.

[Anonymous No.1413901]

>>1413713
China is the right place to buy this stuff now. I have this and it's fucking awesome. hardened bits, permanent case, literally every bit size under 1/4" and a retractable tab with a hole if I want to store it hanging up.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QCQ684/

they have many non-magnetic sets as well, but fuckin A if I don't scream like a woman anytime somebody else touches that case. I'd kick a baby over my Chinese screwdriver set

[Anonymous No.1413903]

>>1413885
just buy a $5 clamp light or a $6 clip lamp

[Anonymous No.1413908]

>>1408657
Central AC took a shit on me recently. replaced the capacitor on my central AC unit and it's all better. What's the chance that it's something more serious than the capacitor?

[Anonymous No.1413944]

>>1413885
I have one, except the arms are each two arms kept parallel by their mounting plates, made of ~10mm square-section steel. It means they have less movement range, but at least the light stays pointing in the same direction when you adjust its height. These arms are supported by pieces of flat steel, maybe 1/2mm thick. All powder coated. It has springs to counter-balance the weight-force of the lamp. It would be pretty easy to make one, provided you have the materials, no welding necessary. Might want to get some bushings and proper shafts if bolts through the side of the tube aren't your thing.

[Anonymous No.1414002]

Can I use cans of compressed gas instead of buying an airbrush compressor? Any other few use options? I wont be airbrush often enough that it's worth buying the compressor.

[Anonymous No.1414007]

>>1414002
no.

[Anonymous No.1414024]

>>1414002
Probably not, but large airsoft/bike CO2 cans might work, since it will probably be possible to cobble together an adapter to hook it directly to the airbrush. Or just get a friend to reef on the bike pump.

[Anonymous No.1414032]

So, I've recently inherited a beautiful old wooden boat with a mahogny top and reinforced plastic on the bottom to reduce the maintenance.. I've removed all the wood finish on it and put on a few new layers to freshen up the look, swapped out the engine as the last one had a cylinder that was rusted to shit. I finally managed to get the boat out last thursday, but there appears to be a leak in the aft of the boat, which my granddad seems to have tried fixing with silicone or something earlier, but it's leaking nevertheless.

My question is, is there any form of paste or something, that can attach to wet wood to form a coat to prevent the leak?
Going to fix it from the outside come spring, peeling off the white paint and sanding off some of the reinforced plastic and applying another layer, but I'd like a quickfix that will do the job for about 2 months. It's not a heavy leak, more like a small drizzle, although I have no idea how much it'll leak when I remove all the silicone.

>pic related, the boat in question

[Anonymous No.1414035]

>>1414032
>that can attach to wet wood
Go at it with a hot air gun, then fill it with some marine-grade epoxy adhesive once it's dry. Nothing will stick well to wet wood.

[Anonymous No.1414046]

>>1413874
>>1413661
Thanks! Dont know why there are so many welding videos but nearly none cover metal finishes besides a bit of grinding.

[Anonymous No.1414066]

>>1413884
Propably gonna do something like that, thanks.
>>1413891
I'm wondering, of the electrodes are so close to each other that no big circuit is created, does it still work? Or would I need AC then...

[Anonymous No.1414078]

babies third, maybe fourth, tower fan disassembly and reassembly for cleaning/fixing squeaking. whats the REAL best lubricant for this job. also, on this particular fan, the motor assembly/bearing is enclosed and the screws to get to it are thread locked. can i just saturate with the lube from the opening or do i really need to get in there?

[Anonymous No.1414099]

>>1414066
yes it will work. AC not needed, that's why tasers can run on batteries.

if the electrodes touch, you'll get fire. otherwise, you get shock

[Anonymous No.1414100]

>>1414078
follow up retard question. blasted that shit with a hose and let it dry and put it back together a bit. the motor now hums when plugged in but still spins. is that shit dead or will it fix itsself when the water dries?

[Anonymous No.1414102]

>>1413889
>>1413944
good ideas thanks. ill see if i can modify the ikea one to my liking first then.
>>1413903
i want it mounted on the wall above my workbench.

[Anonymous No.1414155]

Any electrician pitch their opinion on this?

I want to come firm if what I am looking here is a manor to retrofit grounding to the outlets in an old house. House is from 40's and undoubtedly had electrical updated since then, no idea how many times.

Thanks in advance

[Anonymous No.1414267]

I have a bow that I want to put a sight on but no bolts to do so. An M4 one is too small (goes in a fair bit and then binds) and M5 is too large. The minor diameter of the thread is 3.7mm as close as I can measure which comes out to 0.146 inches. From using a thread size calculator that seems to match up with a 10-24 imperial thread, does that seem right?

[Anonymous No.1414298]

>>1408657
What are the steps for building a home?

These plans look kind of interesting, but I don't know who to take them to or what to do next or what the overall price will be. I'm hoping for somewhere around the 75-80k mark

I was thinking of doing something like this: http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/plans/roundhouse2S.htm

Or this, sans all the crap in the basement: http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/plans/roundhouse-survival.htm

[Anonymous No.1414324]

>>1413797
But they can't overwinter. Goldfish are carp. They can survive freezing winter weather.

>>1413894
Thought that was a myth.

[Anonymous No.1414362]

>>1414024
Do you know any good compressor options under 100? Are they even worth looking at?

[Anonymous No.1414371]

>>1414155
I guess - GFI the whole house off of one outlet. AFCIs would make for a much cleaner installation.

[Beppu !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1414374]

>>1414324
>a myth
Depends on the species, but those stupid cheap feeder goldfish can get 8”+ pretty damn fast.

>>1414362
>are the even worth looking at
Are you trying to inflate bicycle tires or run a 1” impact wrench?

[Anonymous No.1414428]

>>1414002
They also sell adapters to use a spare tire as the source of compressed air.
>take the tire somewhere to refill when depleted

[Anonymous No.1414445]

>>1414032
do you even into boat repair?

[Anonymous No.1414531]

>>1414374
I want it for painting

[Anonymous No.1414589]

>>1414362
Afraid I'm no expert on that, I'd look towards forums/subreddits that deal with airbrushing.

>>1414428
Hey that's neat.

[Anonymous No.1414602]

I'm looking to make a freestanding pergola in my backyard with corrugated metal roofing. The length of the pergola is 30 ft and i'm too broke to order 2 30' long beams. I figure I use 6 post instead of 4 and use 2 16' long beams on each side splicing them at the center post. Only thing is I don't feel like hauling 16' long boards on my pick up so, is making a 16' long beam using two 2x at 8' long with these tie plates at the ends a good idea? They will only hold up the weight of the pergola and rain as it does not snow here in Houston.

[Anonymous No.1414625]

>>1414602
>is making a 16' long beam using two 2x at 8' long with these tie plates at the ends a good idea?
no

[Anonymous No.1414628]

>>1414625
Any ideas on how to make a longer beam from shorter boards? Or should I just suck it up and get the 16 footers?

[Anonymous No.1414647]

>>1414628
You haven't given any dimension other than length.
The profile of the beam matters
The fact that you even considered 30' spans says you should look into actual plans instead of making it up as you go along.
Also: pergolas generally are lattice or similar open construction instead of corrugated tin roofed.

[Anonymous No.1414667]

Tony called this a shuttle valve, but a shuttle valve is described as:
>A shuttle valve is a type of valve which allows fluid to flow through it from one of two sources.
Which is not what he made. Anyone know what these are actually called?

[Anonymous No.1414679]

>>1413203
>I am but mad north-north-west. When the wind is southerly, I know a hawk from a handsaw.
That's cool. I'm a cement renderer/plasterer and didn't know Shakespeare had referenced a hawk in one of his plays.

[Anonymous No.1414702]

>>1414667
https://youtu.be/mYfshoR1HgE

[Anonymous No.1414788]

Is there any reason I SHOULD NOT attach the trim directly to the window frame?

[Anonymous No.1414804]

>>1414788
is that a fuckin wishbone?

[Anonymous No.1414845]

Im turning an chair into a table/stool. I want to put a vinyl covering over the top surface (all nicked up and has holes for the backing) what is the name of that stuff? its like that thickish-vinyl you find on drafting boards.
alternatively i can use peel and stick tiles but I'd rather one continouous piece

[Anonymous No.1414979]

>>1408657
Sparkel in Norwegian, according to google translate. A lot of tools which have existed since the age of mediaeval guilds have ridiculously archaic, jargon names which are very language-specific. Masonry tools are a good example.

Post masonry tool names in your own language for kek
Dutch:
>troffel
>rei
>voegspijker
>spachtelmes
>plakspaan
>schuurbord
>schietlood
>spieën
>voegenkrabber
>slaglijn
>stelwig
>kattentong
>paleermes
>plamuurmes
>speciekuip

[Anonymous No.1414995]

>>1414804
he must live in atlanta

[Anonymous No.1415032]

>>1413761
God damn that is sexy. I'll look more into their offerings. 80$ is a wee bit more than what I'd like to invest though but I might consider it. Add shipping and import taxes and it's suddenly ~110$.

>>1413901
This is tempting as well. I'm not completely opposed to buying Chinese, but my experience is that the pictures are deceiving at best. That doesn't really look bad though. Also my autism doesn't like random chink brand names.

Thanks for your suggestions, guys.

[Beppy !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1415059]

>>1415032
There is more as long as it has everything you want.

There’s a really big Wiha set for like $200 that’s a bunch of individual drivers, not like one driver and interchangable bits. That one is nice.

[Anonymous No.1415112]

Idiot question of the day coming through. I´m currently planing a shed and I have two question regarding the foundation and floor frame. The shed will be build on concrete beams and the grey area will be gravel.
Can I run with the frame like in sketch one or would it be better to add the extra horizontal support beams like in the second sketch? Looks like it would get pretty high that way.
My second question would be if the slightly elevated frame in combination with the gravel would be enough to protect the shed from water from below or of I should cover the frame and walls with some barrier. Any help is aprreciated!

[Anonymous No.1415123]

>>1415112
Why not make a jig to see how much a single beam bows under your weight over the full length of the building? A couple of cinderblocks should do it.

[Anonymous No.1415127]

I'm looking for the QTDDTOT thread but all I can find is this. Can someone help?

[Anonymous No.1415129]

>>1415112
>concrete beams
piers or pillars
>>1415112
>slightly elevated frame - protect the shed from water
elevated how much?
Use treated wood for the horizontal boards.

[Anonymous No.1415132]

>>1415127
>Can someone help?
You've used up one question.
You have two questions remaining - choose wisely.

[Anonymous No.1415144]

>>1415112
>350cm

I recently built a 8x10 shed frame sitting on 4 cinder blocks. Used 2x6 PT wood on 16OC, no stringers between joists. Rock solid but again depends what you are going use it for. If I was going to park a rids mower or bike in it then I would have used stringers.

What is your full dimension? Since you have a centre support pillar I don't think you need to add a centre beam. Again though depends on what you will store in it? Elephants?

USE JOIST HANGERS. THE ADDED COST IS MINOR TO THE WHOLE DAMN PROJECT

[Anonymous No.1415154]

>>1415129
>Use treated wood for the horizontal boards.
Use treated wood for all of it, not that it will make a difference when it comes to water damage. CCA all the way.

[Anonymous No.1415167]

>>1408657
pool trowel

[Anonymous No.1415170]

I don't have any mechanical engineering experience, but I'd like to make something like pic related, the embryo cold storage cylinder from Jurassic Park. Specifically, I want to make a kind of container that opens by pulling up from the top; when you pull it up it stays up, and when you push back down it closes without having to fiddle with a catch or anything. I have no idea how to do this or describe it to Google. The big difference is mine will be rectangular instead of cylindrical.

This will be an immersion cooling vat for an RPi cluster. I've already got the rack designed, I just need some way to lower and raise it from the vat that will allow me to work on it with both hands, thus it has to stay up after being pulled. It can't have a catch before lowering because my hands will be covered in fluid.

[Anonymous No.1415177]

>>1415170
Now here is a fucking excellent example of a good /diy/ question.
Describes what he wants, tried to google it, provides a picture, and then describes what it's actually going to be for, and why he wants to do it that way.
Stellar!

things that can do what you desire:
detent
toggle (probably)
magnet
air spring like on hatchback doors that lift up.
Lots of ways to do it...

find this pdf and use it for inspiration.
mechanisms and mechanical devices sourcebook pdf

[Anonymous No.1415228]

>>1415170
I second the pneumatic cylinders used for hatchbacks. I'd say picking the hardware for sliding will be tougher. Hopefully some quality drawer slides will suffice. If you do it well enough you might manage to get two drawer slides bolted on either side of a stationary shaft, and the moving parts of the drawer slides would be fastened together such that a metal pipe can be slid over and bolted to them to get a smooth aesthetic whereby the slides are always obscured. Be neater if you could get it to rotate slowly as it comes up also, but that would be tough to fabricate.

[Anonymous No.1415261]

>>1413655
It is.

https://ndla.no/nb/node/170131?fag=127013

At least according to literature made for vocational schools.

[Anonymous No.1415280]

why aren't there more brushless corded tools? Like mitre saws, skilsaws, drills, grinders?

If it's running on A/C anyway it just needs the control/stator position stuff, which tool companies have developed anyway so they can just copy/paste into current skins?

[Beppy !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1415282]

>>1415280
I bet it’s the same reason DeWalt and Milwaukee sell battery powered 1/2” impact guns with 1000ft-lbs of torque but their corded ones are only 300ft-lbs.

They don’t want to put their best technology into corded tools because they can’t sell you $300 worth of batteries with them. And when people buy $300 worth of Red or Yellow batteries, they’re likely going to choose another Red or Yellow tool when they need a new sawzall or drill because they already have the batteries.

[Anonymous No.1415289]

>>1415280
Brushless requires variable frequency AC, not single-speed AC. You can drive an asynchronous motor (like an induction motor) off a single frequency, but if you try to do that with a permanent-magnet synchronous motor you'll just stall it. In other words, for a corded tool you need to rectify the power, add some beefy capacitors, and use much worse high-voltage transistors (probably IGBTs) for the same effect. High-current low-voltage batteries just make more sense when it comes to this scale of transistor-driven tool.

[Anonymous No.1415297]

>>1415282
>I bet it’s the same reason DeWalt and Milwaukee sell battery powered 1/2” impact guns with 1000ft-lbs of torque but their corded ones are only 300ft-lbs.
Because the people who would mostly use a 1000 ft-lb impact wrench are professionals who use air tools in their shops and battery-powered tools in the field.

[Anonymous No.1415302]

>>1415129
Sorry, English isn´t my first language, but thanks for pointing it out.
I was planning for a 5cm clearance above the gravel.

>>1415123
Will keep that idea in mind and test beforehand. Thanks!

>>1415144
I was going for 350x300 cm with a skillion roof.
It is going to be a storage shed for a lawnmower some bicycles and garden tools.
>joist hangers
I just took my ideas from yt videos to be honest and never saw one of those. I don´t mind the extra cost if they are that much better. I will keep that in mind! Thank you.

[Anonymous No.1415316]

Is there a cheap chinese service that can cut and bend sheet metal? I want to make a spice rack, pic related.

[Beppy !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1415322]

>>1415297
Nah it’s the battery jews. I see dudes using battery impacts in the shop all the time. If they offered them without having to buy a $150 battery, they would sell. So many dudes like me would love a powerful impact in the garage without needing a 20+ gal compressor.

If they can sell you a corded tool, they make money on one tool. If they can sell you a cordless tool that requires a couple expensive batteries, they have likely sold you the whole line of tools.

[Beppy !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1415323]

>>1415316
There was some anon a few days ago asking this same thing trying to make a guitar pedal but a one-off part from Asia was way more expensive than you would think.

My advice was to try and find somebody who does HVAC, their shops could easily make something like that in 5min with a piece of scrap metal.

[Anonymous No.1415333]

>>1412647
If you get some cross members, you could place in some 12"x12" floor tiles. Parents did that and it has held up for over a decade. Can't find anything similar online though.

[Anonymous No.1415335]

>>1415333
Kinda like this, only multi colored and the grout is angle iron(? from the factory like that. Whatever cheap stamped crap Lowes rebranded and sold) and you sit tiles on top.

[Anonymous No.1415336]

>>1408657
How can I took out this broken lightbulb base? There doesnt seem to be a way of disassamble it.

[Anonymous No.1415344]

>>1415289
great, some good places for me to jump off researching here. Thanks

[Anonymous No.1415363]

>>1415316
You'd be better off making it yourself. Just do like 4 smaller ones to make bending it straight easier.

You can make a basic sheet brake with some bits of timber.

[Anonymous No.1415368]

>>1415336
You can't it's a sealed base you need to weld it.

[Anonymous No.1415402]

>>1415336
Go at it with a hammer and screwdriver? Files/hacksaw helps if you need to get through iron.

[Anonymous No.1415490]

>>1415322
>I see dudes using battery impacts in the shop all the time
For quick jobs where it's not worth it to run a hose (or cord, btw), sure. My workplace keeps some cordless tools in the shop for quick jobs like that and for the occasional tasks far from air hoses. If you're running a tool all day in a shop with air, you use an air tool. And most shops have air.

[Anonymous No.1415563]

>>1415302
>5cm clearance above the gravel.
>two inches above ground level
I'd never build anything that close to the ground.

[Anonymous No.1415566]

About US frame buildings

How thick are those straps?

[Anonymous No.1415568]

>>1415566

[Anonymous No.1415569]

Straps don’t hold the joists up they just hold them in place

[Anonymous No.1415573]

>>1415569
You didnt answer dat question

[Anonymous No.1415574]

>>1415336
It's made in three parts
Each part should be threaded
"lefty-loosy - righty-tighty"

[Anonymous No.1415579]

>>1415566
>How thick are those straps?
different connectors are different thickness
most are 12 to 20 gauge

https://www.strongtie.com/woodconnectors/category?v=%3Aname-asc

[Anonymous No.1415592]

>>1415579
Tnx. I'm watching this video.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=vY9vDoN3JEc

In 27th min he proposes to use a strap, how thick are straps common used to connect a garage header to a shear wall?

[Anonymous No.1415641]

>>1415170
My parents had a table like this. It uses a big pneumatic cylinder in the center. You push down release and it slowly lifts up and then you can push it back down and it will stay down

no idea how the locking mechanism works and I have never seen any other like it except the one I found this pic from which sold for $1900

[Anonymous No.1415668]

So I have a small arduino nano project. It's supposed to be a wearable around the wrist and therefore I need to power the arduino.
There's two problems:
First: I never powered any arduino project externally before, so pic related is the basic idea. I'd need a chip and a battery to power it and be able to charge that battery. Any recommendations for that? What do I need to look out for? I thought about a small Li-ion cell, but that's where problem 2 comes into play:
I'd wear this while sleeping. Li-ion cells start burning when punctured and I'd rather not have a mine strapped to my arm and wake up to burns. Should I still go with Li-ion? Should I use another battery type? Should I stick with it? any otther security measures I should take?

[Anonymous No.1415719]

which way is better for a robot arm? I'll be putting a bearing on the potentiometer side if it matters.

[Anonymous No.1415736]

>>1415719
I doubt it'll make much of a difference, the problem is primarily how much torque you have and if you can safely make the motor transmit this torque to the wood without the wear destroying it fast. That being said, cable management is likely easier with the motors outside.

What kind of motor do you plan on using though?
If it's a stepper motor or a servo you shouldn't need a potentiometer to get the position.
Think about the accuracy you need and budget as well as torque and holding torque and decide from there.

[Anonymous No.1415753]

>>1415736
it's just a normal brushed motor so I have a knob potentiometer to get the position,I have one geared to 60rpm and another to 120rpm, I can't even budge either by hand so I'm assuming that it will have quite a lot of holding torque.

If neither way makes a difference in torque or durability then I think I'll go with the left for cable management. thank you!

[Anonymous No.1415961]

>>1415753
I think than closer to a base (torso) than better. You'll get lower overturning momentum.

[Anonymous No.1416017]

>>1415574
The ring was glued to to base, I had to break it with pliers to disassamble it.
Work done!

[Anonymous No.1416065]

Is internal resistance of multimeter high enough to use it as voltage detector?

[Anonymous No.1416074]

>>1416065
>Is internal resistance of multimeter high enough to use it as voltage detector?

could you re-phrase your question? on volts scale, a multimeter will have very high input impedance (resistance).

[Anonymous No.1416077]

>>1416074
I want to use a multimeter as voltage detector by using my body as ground. Is internal resistance of a multimeter in voltage mode high enough to not cause any harm to myself by doing so?

[Anonymous No.1416081]

>>1416077
>I want to use a multimeter as voltage detector by using my body as ground.

why? draw a circuit or describe in detail how you are planning to electrocute yourself.

[Anonymous No.1416089]

>>1416081
Because I want to find L in TN-C with only multimeter at hand.

[Anonymous No.1416090]

>>1416089
>Because I want to find L in TN-C

L?

[Anonymous No.1416094]

>>1416090
I have PEN and L1 in front of me and I want to figure out which one of them is L1.

[Anonymous No.1416096]

>>1416094

why does your body have to be included? the voltage between PEN and ground will be very small or zero, and L1 to ground will be line voltage.

[Anonymous No.1416098]

>>1416089
http://www.homeinspect2020.com/uploads/Non_Contact_Voltage_Testers_and_Personal_Risk_Management.pdf

https://www.brighthubengineering.com/diy-electronics-devices/71915-make-a-simple-non-contact-ac-mains-voltage-

You can't just hold onto the black wire of your multimeter while you wave your red one around

[Anonymous No.1416107]

>>1416096
Because I wanted to know.
>>1416098
>You can't just hold onto the black wire of your multimeter while you wave your red one around
That's why I asked if the resistance of the multimeter is high enough to make it possible.

[Anonymous No.1416132]

>>1416107
If you measure voltage the resistance SHOULD be very high.
If you measure current the resistance SHOULD be very low.
That's why if you have a good meter and leave the probe in current socket and put it on voltage it bleeps. Because your about to basically short your supply.
That aside if you are measuring ANYTHING that can fuck you up you probably shouldn't even be holding the meter,never mind intentionally putting yourself into the circuit for fuck sake.
Probably if your supplier presents you a combined earth neutral you can have an educated guess by inspecting (carefully) the incoming cable.

[Anonymous No.1416312]

>>1416077
sure, go ahead.
it'll cut down on stupid questions.

[Anonymous No.1416658]

hi
how to know if my laser requires laser driver board?
200-250mW 650nm

[Anonymous No.1416662]

>>1408657
Is this the reason my AC isn't running? Kinda sweating here. 9am and it's going to hit 100 today. Testing C to HERMS.

[Anonymous No.1416665]

>>1416662
Reads open loop when testing fan

[Anonymous No.1416676]

>>1416662
>>1416665
WHO SELLS THIS SHIT ON SUNDAY? FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK

[Anonymous No.1416681]

>>1416658
>unscrew
>check if it has a cirquit inside
If it has one, thats the driver, if it doesn't you need one.

[Anonymous No.1416682]

do people not use nails anymore?
im watching videos about building decks and they all use screws and fancy automatic tools that i dont want to buy

[Anonymous No.1416686]

>>1416682

I use screws because they hold better long term. And I suck at hammering

[Anonymous No.1416699]

>>1416676
I just go to my cap stock shelf

t. a/c repair tech

[Anonymous No.1416730]

>>1416699
And I bet you'd charge no less than $400 to come out and sell me a $5 part.

[Anonymous No.1416752]

>>1416730
If you were near me I'd give it to you.

[Anonymous No.1416817]

I have about a month of free time and would like to build a project vehicle.
What type of (preferably 2 wheeled) vehicle could i build from scratch with unlimited resources?

[Anonymous No.1416833]

>>1416752
Thanks, bro. I hit up all the big box stores and got laughed at and emailed all the HVAC service ads on CL .

Guess it wasn't meant to be. I'll just stay out and hit up the HVAC store tomorrow before work. Wife and our 4 month old are with her parents. Seems to have unexpectedly been an alright day. Just can't stomach an emergency service call. They'd stick me 2 or 3 days wages to toss me a $5 part and people here would defend them.

[Anonymous No.1417220]

I am not sure if I should go for an associates in Construction Technology or a tech cert in cnc/electrician/plumbing/HVAC?
I was told I could get a job with Dow if I have the degree, but that's a tentative maybe from one Co., and I am trying to think long term...

What should I do?

I am close to 30 and in Houston if that helps determine best option.
Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1417233]

Going to report some dude that does black labor as a mechanic for half his town because he didn't pay me
How fucked will I be?

[Anonymous No.1417242]

>>1417233
>does black labor
>he didn't pay me
Shouldn't it be the other way around?

[Anonymous No.1417359]

>>1408657
Stay with me - this isn't retarded. How do I put/mount an outlet recessed to the side of a breaker box?

I 'need' a project box to mount to the frame of a project to act as a control panel and this would fit the bill.

[Anonymous No.1417365]

>>1417359
Would a small, old construction box suffice? Not at a store to plug and play.

[Anonymous No.1417402]

Trying to remove the top of an old piece of furniture but it's got two of these. One is still hidden,and can't be accessed with out more damage (which i don't really care about). Never seen it before and I'm running out of ideas on how to remove it. Tried cutting through it and the angle is off for unscrewing it.

[Anonymous No.1417520]

If this isn't the right place to ask can you direct me?
I'm hoping one of you guys might know a thing or two about this
I suspect that the backlight of my led TV has gone out. I was playing a game when the screen went black with the sound playing. If I moved closer I could faintly see options through the black so I switch it from game to vivid mode and the picture came back as if nothing was wrong. I carried on using for the day. So comes today and the screen is black with sound and changing the picture mode doesn't work.
What's different now is I can notice then screen flicker sometimes(note this flicker was with the black screen as before were I could faintly see the options for me to change picture mode)
So is this a backlight failure? Can I fix it myself?
Please halp

[Anonymous No.1417525]

Stub out in my tub has about a drop a minute leak.
This means the valve above it failing correct? I don't want to cut into the next room's drywall if there's something I'm missing here.
Also, the nipple adaptor was threaded but there were no threads on the copper stub out is there a sealant/bond i should consider on reinstall? Or just friction fit it back into place?

[Anonymous No.1417761]

>>1417402
You're supposed to lift one side off, you don't need to unscrew it. The gap in the angle is to allow room for that left-most screw head.

>>1417520
Sounds like a backlight issue, which is good because it's far easier to fix than a lot else on a TV. The fix will change whether you have a fluorescent backlight or LED backlight. I've only opened a fluorescent backlight before but they have a high-voltage power supply board to supply the cold-cathode-fluorescent-lamp (CCFL), which is covered in thru-hole parts and provided you have a DMM which can handle the voltages should be pretty easy to troubleshoot. I'm unsure if an LED-backlight TV will have a seperate PCB like this, but it should be fairly easy to trace where the backlight wires come into the board and look for any smoked ICs, transistors, or capacitors, or even a loose wire. If in doubt post a pic of the PCB.

[Anonymous No.1417999]

Help me understand electricity /diy/, why can't I connect an LED to a positive terminal of a battery and connect the negative LED terminal to my outlet ground? Why isn't this working?

[Anonymous No.1418139]

>>1417761
Thanks. I'm planing on buying led replacements.
I've found generic that they say will work perfectly fine for lg brands.
The specs seem to fit.
What's your and anyone else's take on buying generic replacement parts?

[Anonymous No.1418441]

looking for a free CAD program that has 2x4s and 2x6s and other common construction materials programmed in.

you think itd be easy to google around for, but it dont

[Anonymous No.1418446]

>>1417999
An LED is a type of diode so it follows the Shokley diode equation: I = I_s*(exp(V_D/(N*V_T)) - 1). You don't need to know what the constants in it are, just that a small increase in voltage will result in an exponentially large increase in current. Subsequently, since the voltage doesn't change much, the power and therefore heat dissipated through the LED is largely a function of current. This is why LEDs are almost always used with something to limit the current to it. This exponential equation also means that too low a voltage will result in almost no current at all. These features lead us to define an LED with a "forward current" value, the recommended current to send through an LED to get decent light intensity without it overheating. For a small 3mm/5mm LED this is typically 20mA. We can solve the diode equation backwards to find the voltage across it at this forward current and get the "forward voltage". For a red LED this is around 2V, for a green LED it's around 2.5V, and for a blue or white LED it's around 3V. If you have a non-standard LED, you should be able to look up its datasheet and find its forward current and voltage values.

When we want to hook up an LED to a battery, the simplest way is to use a resistor to limit the current to 20mA. We assume the voltage across the LED will be constant at this forward voltage, and in reality it doesn't vary from this value much at all. If we have a 5V source and a red LED, we know that 2V will be dropped across the LED and so 3V must be dropped across the resistor. As R = V/I = 3/0.02 = 150Ω. So by putting a 150Ω resistor in series with the red LED we will get 20mA through it and it will light up without issue. We can calculate the power dissipated by the resistor to be V*I = 3*0.02 = 60mW, which is barely anything and easily within the 250mW range of a standard 1/4W resistor.

>>1418139
Generic replacements are probably fine, but check the circuitry to ensure that's what's actually broken.

[Anonymous No.1418467]

>>1418446
>Generic replacements are probably fine, but check the circuitry to ensure that's what's actually broken.
I don't have a multimeter or any way to thoroughly diagnose. Though according to symptoms its either the LEDs or the backlight inverter.
I'm pretty sure its the LEDs since a week ago I chanced backlight intensity by trying out vivid mode. Aswell after it first failed I changed picture mode and the TV looked perfectly fine. Light came back. Till I turned it on the next day and the problem was back.
They reckon the LEDs work in series so if one goes out it ends up feeding more power into the remainder of LEDs. Which can end up making it more likely they fry.
That makes sense right? Cause I think that's what's happened now.
If only I knew about backlights I wouldn't have had any problems

[Anonymous No.1418483]

>>1418467
Well you won't be able to troubleshoot it without a multimeter, which is notably cheaper than buying the wrong replacement part. Less than $5 on aliexpress, if you want to go that way.

LED arrays are typically in sets of parallel and series, because a few hundred LEDs would be either closing on 1000V in series or far too many current limiters in parallel. They'll die in series groups, so if one LED dies open-circuit you'll see that entire group of LEDs (probably a row or column behind the screen) go out, possibly making the rest of the LEDs go brighter (and maybe also dying) depending on how they're driven. If one LED dies closed-circuit, you'll see that group get a little brighter, possibly killing all of them, which might in-turn cascade and kill all of the others. But if you didn't see a cascading of failing LEDs then it's likely the driver that went instead of the panel. I'd wager that the driver is less reliable than the LEDs, but I really don't know.

[Anonymous No.1418556]

>>1408657
So I have a piece of wood, not sure what type, about half an inch or an inch thick, 44 cm wide and 83 cm long. How do I cut a recetangular hole in the middle of it with 5 cm margins? Is it possible with only a hand saw?

[Anonymous No.1418580]

>>1418556
Screw a jig-saw blade on the end of a thick dowel, assuming you don't have a jig-saw. A drill of some variety is pretty much mandatory.

[Anonymous No.1418619]

I live in Euroland and I always hear people mentioning Scotchbrite. And Scotchbrite is just Scotchbrite, no one bothers to explain what it is. What is it? Nylon mesh? Nylon mesh with some surface coating?

[Anonymous No.1418620]

>>1418619
nylon with surface coating yes

[Anonymous No.1418739]

Hi /diy/, I have an issue with my fan, this is what it does :
turn on, fan is spinning, after 2-3 seconds it turns off
What should I check first ? (pic related is circuit inside)

[Anonymous No.1418740]

>>1418739
The fan is a FS40-6ARCY

[Anonymous No.1419060]

>>1418739
What are the functions of that circuit? It looks to have an IR receiver, a buzzer, and a series of small transistors. It looks too complicated to be a normal triac-based dimmer, though one of those 2-lead packages might be a diac. Is there a power package on the other side?

[Anonymous No.1419080]

>>1419060
Pic related is the back
The fan can be controlled by an IR remote controller yes and it has a buzzer + led to say in which mode it is
I have mesured the voltage on the microcontroler, as long as I dont press the on-button, the voltage is at 5v and when I press the on-button, it drops down to ~3.3v and then reset

[Anonymous No.1419346]

>>1418483
I've got a thing at work which I'll test the LEDs put with. But like I said it went off and I adjusted the picture mode and then it was working again. Till now no matter how much I fiddle its black. There is a faint flicker or flash every 5 seconds or so so I'm pretty sure its the back LEDs that are bust now.
Believe it or not I put the picture mode on vivid which is backlight 100% after "fixing" it. I probably blew them properly because of that

[Anonymous No.1419446]

What is this battery?

Rechargeable sintered plate battery. Is it a lead acid battery?

[Anonymous No.1419562]

>>1419446
three cells
3.6v = 1.2v per cell
it appears to be Ni-Cd or Ni-MH
lead/acid are 2v per cell

[Anonymous No.1419674]

been looking at getting an eTopxizu 12V 30A power supply. am I just supposed to cut an outlet cord off something and wire it to this thing?