/rcg/ - drone & remote control general

[Anonymous No.1368754]

In /rcg/ we discuss anything & everything remote controlled - multirotors, fixed wing, cars, rovers, helis, boats, submarines, battlebots, lawnmowers, etc.

>How do I get started with racing drones?

https://oscarliang.com/mini-quad-racing-guide/

https://www.fpvknowitall.com/ultimate-fpv-shopping-list/

>What about planes?

https://www.flitetest.com/

>What about aerial photography, is DIY viable?

DJI wins here.

>I want a dirt cheap drone to fly around my yard/garden

Syma X5C

>I want a dirt cheap drone to fly inside my house

Eachine E010/Hubsan X4

[Anonymous No.1368918]

So umm could someone explain to me all this talk about Reynolds numbers and stuff when it comes to airplane wings? ie. how do i determine the best combination of different characteristics for wings, cord, thickness, wingspan, airfoil etc.

[Anonymous No.1369532]

>>1368918
what are you building?

[Anonymous No.1369573]

>>1369532
An rc airplane, what i'm looking for is the longest flight time possible, so low drag, big wings, high lift etc.

[Anonymous No.1369633]

I have a project in the works for a 500 gram autonomous submarine. I need to minimize weight while maintaining a specific gravity near 1.005. At the moment my issue is meeting weight. Need suggestions on epoxy for waterproofing.

[Anonymous No.1369683]

>>1369633
Shouldn't just ordinary epoxy be sufficient for that?

[Anonymous No.1369697]

>>1369683
Yeah, the two part black epoxy is what I've used but I'm not sure that there isn't something better.

[Anonymous No.1369705]

>>1369697
I suppose there might be but you're probably gonna pay a lot of extra for that so why bother when two part epoxy is probably way stronger than you'll even need it to be.

[Anonymous No.1369766]

>>1369573
How much experience do you have? What kind of construction?

[Anonymous No.1370053]

>>1369766
Does that matter? Lets say that i have the tools to build designs that other hobbyists can as well, what i'm trying to find out basically is the optimum airfoil and how to scale it to be the optimal size for my needs.

[Anonymous No.1370133]

Anybody know how bad for you carbon fibre dust *actually* is? I often sand/file frame edges & this Daya frame has probably the sharpest edges of any frame I've bought. I've always assumed I shouldn't breathe the dust, but is it genuinely bad for you like MDF dust (because of carcinogens in the epoxy) or does everybody just jump on the bus in preaching its dangers without actually knowing why?

[Anonymous No.1370146]

>>1370133
As far as i know it's not too dangerous but why worry when you could just apply a bit of water to the area you're sanding so it doesn't produce dust.

[Anonymous No.1370176]

>>1370146
I already do, I was just curious whether it's actually necessary.

[Anonymous No.1370211]

Is it worth fighting to DIY a transmitter out of an old BNF cheapo that came with an RTF, or should I just give up? It says "with Spektrum 2.4 GHz technology" but refuses to bind to my spektrum receiver.

[Anonymous No.1370215]

>>1370211
This is the transmitter, BTW. Came with the Horizon Hobby Champ RTF.

[Anonymous No.1370551]

>>1370176
I thought it was also carcinogenic. And sharp or something.

[Anonymous No.1370726]

>>1370133
Anything involving epoxy dust is generally considered a bad idea to breathe specifically because of the carcinogens. Anything coming of the carbon is just icing on the cake.

[Anonymous No.1370733]

>>1370133
everywhere i've read when handling CF says wear protection. i have raw carbon fiber tow and the individual fibers are THIN, goddamn near invisible, and poky like glass fibers. no way i'd want that shit near my lungs.

[Anonymous No.1370760]

>>1370733
Tfw CF is the new asbestos & we're all gonna die from cancer in 2060.

[Anonymous No.1370806]

What resources do you guys recommend for starting out in hexapod robots? Pic mildly related.

[Anonymous No.1371253]

>>1370211
I'd can it. Just get 1 good radio that u can use for all your models.

I ended up by an FrSky x9d. It's fantastic

[Anonymous No.1371455]

Ffffinnnaaallyyy built my first RC/quad/multi. Rate her pls.

Flew it for the first time today and it flies great. Hardest part about this build was all the software and debugging I had to do; hardware was the easy part.

Also I don't have any velcro battery straps so i glues velcro directly to the body of the quad and to a battery, and it seems to be working well. Maybe it won't be good for when i start doing crazy turns and such, but for now it works.

[Anonymous No.1371477]

>>1370806
i used http://stubby.digitalcave.ca/stubby/

[Anonymous No.1371668]

Looking for cheap fpv goggles.
First choice is VR011 with prodvr from eachine, I'd rather avoid buying ev800d since it's integrated dvr tends to have problems, but everything else seems to be the same.
Also, SJ RG01 look decent with diversity but the screen resolution is something that scares me (2x 360x240 screens).
Should I buy one of those 2 or just wait for the hobbyking to get quanum cyclops with diversity in stock in EU?
I'll mostly use it for planes but would like to try fpv on drones, the eachine rotg01 has a big lag for multirotors also using vrbox with samsung s6 for more then 10mins makes my eyes hurt so I'll use it on tablet or on phone on my radio.

[Anonymous No.1372051]

>>1371455
Get a strap ASAP. Ive had batteries come loose on outside loops.

Also not worth risking a prop piercing your lipo if you come in hard.

[Anonymous No.1372366]

>>1371477
Thanks. Thats a really good site.

[Anonymous No.1372910]

Even though I'm not interested in actual competitive racing, flying gates for a change is kinda fun :) Only the second time I've done it in a year though.

[Anonymous No.1373072]

I'm really struggling on finding a motor for a first homebuilt flying wing.

Estimated weight will be about 680 grams, including electronics.

Wingspan is 55" (1.39 meters)

Specs on the pic-related (https:// hobbyking com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-dst-1000-brushless-outrunner-motor-1000kv html) are as follows:
Kv:1000 rpm/v
Voltage:7.4~11.1v (2~3s)
No load Current:1.0A
Max Current:14A
Max Power:140W
Shaft Size:3mm
Shaft Length:17mm
Dimension:32.7mm x 30.3mm
Thrust:770g
Weight:65g


I plan on using a 9x4.7sf prop and hope to one day add fpv gear. How can I know how the thrust for this motor relates to my build? Suggestions for a different motor?

[Anonymous No.1373264]

Flew fixed wing for the first ever time yesterday & now I completely understand the people that said the Nano Goblin wasn't a good first fixed wing. Thinking about picking up something much bigger & much slower (& preferably cheaper so I'm not as scared about loosing it) to learn better with, is the Bixler 2 still a good option for this?

[Anonymous No.1373279]

>>1373264
My trainer was a Twinstar 2. Once I straight up hit a barn wall. Got away with minor dents.
Handles nicely and you can do mild aerobatics.
Leaves enough space to mod later.
The Brixler looks fine too. The well protected prop is nice if you ever crash it.

[Anonymous No.1373280]

>>1373264
yes, Bix 2 is still a good trainer especially since the PNP is <$100. Just check some reviews and make sure it doesn't ship with a crap motor or ESC. You can buy the ARF for $22 cheaper and pick your own components. Also, anything that looks like a cub will usually be a good trainer.

[Anonymous No.1373287]

>>1373072
Check different motor listings. Look for a table like the one in this link.

https://www.banggood.com/DYS-D3536-910KV-1000KV-1250KV-1450KV-2-4S-Brushless-Motor-p-993816.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

Also, you can find calculators like eCalc. I used to use WebOCalc, but that seems to have disappeared aside from this archived version.
https://www.ecalc.ch/motorcalc.php
https://web.archive.org/web/20161012020813/http://flbeagle.rchomepage.com/software/webocalc_1.7.6/webocalc.html

[Anonymous No.1373990]

I'm looking for a platform that can lift a payload of up to 2kg a height up to 100m. Commercial drones like those from DJI would cost several grand, would building such a drone myself save me any money? Don't care about camera, don't care about GPS, I just need something I can fly using LOS which can lift a piece of radio equipment above a certain height for radio measurements and keep it there for a few min.

[Anonymous No.1374006]

>>1373990
If you don't need any camera or anything like that then building it by yourself is fine, just pick motors that can produce sufficient thrust, controllers that can handle the amps and just some basic receiver.

[Anonymous No.1374050]

>>1373990
>>1374006
You could do it pretty cheaply DIY. Picrelated assuming cheap parts from banggood eg;

Tarot 650 Sport frame
Tarot 4108 380kv motors
Hobbywing XRotor 40A ESCs
15" T-style props (HobbyKing sell cheap ones)

Use something like an old APM for a cheap flight controller simply because Arducopter will handle a big quad like this better than Betaflight.

For the battery, you can often pick up big 6S packs discounted on HobbyKing. I got an 8000mAh 6S Graphene for £60.

The quad itself will be around 1kg before battery, hence the 3kg in the calculator to take your payload into account.

[Anonymous No.1375191]

Tfw US gets 1000mW with telemetry, while here in the EU we only get 500mW without telemetry or 25mW with telemetry :( Though I guess in any situation you genuinely need more than 25mW transmit power, the telemetry transmitter would be out of range anyway.

[Anonymous No.1375196]

Any roverfags ITT? Will I ever be able to find hobby level shock absorbers with their spring and damping constants written out? Or do people just buy whatever and only look at the dimensions?

>>1370053
IIRC airfoil shapes are pretty much standardized. You should be able to look up the relevant NACA profiles by googling for maximum flight length, and that should give you the proportions of your wing shape. The material will also play a role as it'll introduce drag as well as determine when the flow over your wing will turn turbulent.

[Anonymous No.1375257]

Let's talk batteries:

I'm looking for a 3S, ~2500mAh LiPo, current output doesn't need to be super high (20A peak max, and probably not even that), but it should be as small and light as possible. I've found this which would suit me:
http://www.rc-design.be/lipo-s-accu-s/10082-sportsline-30c-cont-50c-burst-3s-111v-5413911204392.html
Is this an ok brand/price? (Apologies for the swamp german)

As for the charger, I'm ready to spend a maximum of around 50€. I've found these three:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01AXVI6YW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A10T9W4EC8Q7PU&psc=1
https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=B6-pro-charger
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01MXZ11CC/ref=pd_luc_rh_sbs_02_04_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
Are these any good? Any recommended models? Ideally I'm looking for something versatile (1-6S LiPo, other chemistries) that can do storage mode and cycling (to break-in new batteries), as well as deep discharge (for end-of-life)

[Anonymous No.1375711]

>>1375257
>Is this an ok brand

Never heard of it, so probably not. Batteries are pretty much the one & only thing that HobbyKing is good for & they have an EU warehouse, so they're probably your best bet. Nano-Tech, Turnigy Heavy Duty & Graphene are all solid options, but Zippy, Rhino & Bolt are less so.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-2200mah-3s-35-70c-lipo-pack.html?wrh_pdp=7

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-heavy-duty-2200mah-3s-60c-lipo-pack-w-xt60u.html?wrh_pdp=7

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene-2200mah-3s-45c-w-xt60.html

If you don't want to use HobbyKing, take a look at mylipo.de

>As for the charger, I'm ready to spend a maximum of around 50€.

Take a look at ISDT, much more modern & user friendly chargers. For the ones that don't have an integrated AC power supply, you can pick up something like an Xbox 360 power supply (200W at 12v) for very cheap second hand.

>storage mode

Remember that if you want to discharge unused packs down to storage, that doing so via pretty much any charger will take a very long time as they simply can't dissipate enough heat. That B6 AC can only discharge 5W (& will run extremely hot while doing so, which probably isn't good for longevity) which will take hours to discharge even a single 2200mAh 3S pack to storage voltage.

>break-in new batteries

No such thing & under no circumstances should you take a brand new lipo & run it completely dead to 0V (I've seen a cringeworthy account of somebody doing that).

>deep discharge (for end-of-life)

Just use a 12v lightbulb.

[Anonymous No.1375751]

>>1375196
>NACA standardised airfoils
I'll look into it, but what i'm really interested in is how do i choose the perfect combination of thickness, chord, and wingspan? The talk about all these reynolds numbers and whatnot just makes my head spin.

[Anonymous No.1375844]

>>1375751
Airfoils actually aren't that important performance wise for a regular aircraft, and the reynolds number isn't either unless you're going very small or very slow.
Also this PDF seems to cover most of the basics they taught me in school.
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/56e4a24bc6fc082c7577a416/t/5718f8ce45bf21d4d295ef24/1461254351404/Grant_AER1216_lecture.pdf

[Anonymous No.1376061]

>>1375844
While that does seem to cover the propulsio systems quite well it only briefly toched on the wings and i still do not know my optimal chord, wingspan, thickness, etc.

[Anonymous No.1376094]

>>1376061
You're not going to find the perfect combination. Pick one dimension and start designing around that, then start modifying the others. If you want better help, then you need to provide more information about what exactly you want to do and what experience and tools you have. Things like "I want the perfect wing" and "longest flight time possible" are too vague.

[Anonymous No.1376203]

>>1375711
If I have a 2200mAh 2s battery in my plane, assuming my motor's max pull is 18 amps, can I really only fly (at full throttle) for 7.3 minutes (2.2/18*60)? Or does having a 2s double that time?

I'm picking a battery for my plane and am debating whether to get 3s or 2s. I'm afraid the 3s will be too much for it, based on videos on YouTube about RC cars going significantly faster with a 3s.

[Anonymous No.1376205]

>>1376203


>>1376203
Also, will I see much of a usable difference betwwen 20c and 30c, assuming both a 1200kv motor?

[Anonymous No.1376227]

>>1375711
Thanks, will look around hobbyking.

>break-in new batteries
>No such thing
I meant just automating the first 5 or so charge/discharge cyles, as described in this guide I found lying around on the internet https://www.robotshop.com/media/files/pdf/hyperion-g5-50c-3s-1100mah-lipo-battery-User-Guide.pdf

[Anonymous No.1376236]

>>1376061
>>1375751
>>1370053
>>1369573
>>1368918
You poor bastard. Ask for an explanation, get someone grilling you and then he tells you he doesn't know or care. Typical /diy/ runaround bullshit

There's a class on EdX from TU Delft that goes over basic aircraft design. It starts slow; lecture 6 is where they explain the tradeoffs for aircraft configuration.

John D. Anderson's aircraft design text is useful reading along with the course. You can find the text on the major Russian ebook piracy websites, or buy a copy off wherever.

We now return you to your regular "suck our dicks while we laugh at you" /diy/ channel.

[Anonymous No.1376242]

>>1376061
>>1375751
>>1370053
>>1369573
>>1368918
Oh, also, for slow small models, and if you want a long flight time then "slow" is going to be one of your parameters because increased drag at higher airspeeds, you will have some difficulty in finding airfoil performance at small/slow speeds. There are some papers from that guy at UIUC that cover "low Reynolds numbers" airfoils specifically for efficient drones.

Take a look at this one for funsies:

http://airfoiltools.com/airfoil/details?airfoil=s1223rtl-il

The S1223 was one of the more efficient high-lift airfoils at low speeds, and the RTL mod is supposed to be an improvement. If I can find the papers and can be arsed to come back, I'll post the DOIs for you.

It's really fucking sad how useless /diy/ is. This ought to be a useful resource, but all the twelve-year-olds trying to pretend that they're knowledgeable just drags the place down into the dirt.

[Anonymous No.1376323]

>>1376236
>Ask for an explanation, get someone grilling you and then he tells you he doesn't know or care. Typical /diy/ runaround bullshit

No, the typical /diy/ bullshit is "how do I master this advanced concept without any fucking clue?!" Notice how >>1373990 and >>1375257 get much better answers than >>1368918. I'm still not sure he's even flown anything before let alone built something that can get in the air.

I tried building my first models before really learning how to fly and they were utter failures because I didn't understand the basics. I don't want to see others have the same frustration that I did. Jumping right to Reynolds numbers without understanding the basics of model design is just going to lead to an expensive and time consuming model that won't fly. Not every aspect of full scale aircraft design will translate directly to model building and vice-versa.

[Anonymous No.1376348]

>>1376094
You're wrong, there has to be one perfect combination, i want to find the equation into which i can plug my numbers to find the answer, you do not require my numbers, give me the equation.

[Anonymous No.1376350]

>>1376323
Cmon dude are you even trying, this is no "technique" to be mastered, this is fucking math, equations, please give me the benefit of doubt, yes i fucking know the basics.

[Anonymous No.1376354]

>>1376348
The perfect design is an infinitely long wing. Happy now?

[Anonymous No.1376360]

>>1376354
Really? Interesting, then why do so many rc planes, even gliders have such abysmally low aspect ratios? I've always found this very interesting, you'd think that higher aspect ratios are achieveable for rc size planes due to the square cube law or whatever, so i always figured that it was the optimum aspect ratio for rc sized planes though i never knew why. I suppose i'll set that as one of my design goals, as long wings as possible given material constraints.

[Anonymous No.1376393]

>>1376360
The higher the aspect ratio the less induced drag you have, as i have said multiple times on this place already.
An infinite wing has 0 induced drag, but there are some issues with very long wings i won't go into because i could go on forever and it was also a bit of a joke.
https://www.grc.nasa.gov/www/k-12/airplane/induced.html
https://www.grc.nasa.gov/www/k-12/airplane/downwash.html

So now you have a rough idea how lift and drag correlate, you can use >>1376061 to get the right angle of attack for the highest endurance.
Also pic related is an equation for endurance (spoiler alert, the batteries should be about 2/3th of the total mass). You can neglect the tan(alpha) as it's from an example where the thrust was aligned with the aircraft, not horizontally.

>Really? Interesting, then why do so many rc planes, even gliders have such abysmally low aspect ratios?
Structural integrity and agility i assume. There are also some effects on the stall characteristics and laminar effects, but that's only relevent for very low Reynolds numbers. If you go VERY low the performance actually increases with decreasing AR, but that's another story.

[Anonymous No.1376572]

>>1376348
Go watch Samm Sheperd's videos on YouTube. He covers some of the basics in one of them.

>>1376323
That's why you give him a fucking clue so that he can start learning it, instead of playing footsie and then saying "I don't know any of it myself but it's not important". Useless assholes like you are why we can't have nice things.

[Anonymous No.1376625]

>>1376227
>I meant just automating the first 5 or so charge/discharge cyles, as described in this guide I found lying around on the internet

Ignore that guide, there is literally zero benefit to 'breaking in' a hobby LiPo pack. Just google for some discussions/videos/etc. based on actual empirical evidence. In fact, if anything it will have a negative effect, as you'd be putting an extra 5 charge/discharge cycles onto it for no reason.

>>1376203
You won't be flying with wide open throttle the whole time, so battery life at full throttle isn't a good indication of actual flight time. The relationship between throttle position & current draw also doesn't tend to be that linear, so if you're cruising along at 30% throttle you will almost certainly be using less than (18*0.3) 5.4A while doing so. And remember that the current draw of a motor depends massively upon what prop you put on it.

>Or does having a 2s double that time?

Erm, no. A 2S 2200mAh pack is simply 2 cells, each with a capacity of 2200mAh & a nominal voltage of 3.7V, wired in series to produce a battery with a capacity of 2200mAh at a nominal voltage of 7.4V.

So if a motor pulls 18A at 7.4V, then a 2200mAh 2S pack will last for ~5 minutes at full throttle (you can't extract all 2200mAh from a 2200mAh pack, because if you discharge the pack below about 3.5V you'll damage it).

Higher voltage tends to mean higher efficiency, so going to a 3S of similar capacity* would probably give you longer flight times. But that decision should be based upon a more informed look at the actual components/plane rather than naively looking at how long the motor's data sheet indicates it will spin when attached to a vice on your bench.

*For equivalent stored energy & similar size/weight of a 2200mAh 2S (16.28Wh) you would be looking at a 1500mAh 3S (16.65Wh).

[Anonymous No.1376668]

>>1376348
BTW, here's the video that I was thinking of in particular:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSD69jdi2CE

[Anonymous No.1376759]

>>1376625
Thanks for the battery information. It's harder to find details about batteries for custom builds so I've been stressing over which better to get.

Ordered everything today. Used code HOBBYKING10 and got 10% off. I imagine that code isn't unique to my account so I hope it can help someone else out too.

[Anonymous No.1376878]

Wish I'd known about this Daya frame the first time around, now that I'm transplanting my components onto it from my Tarot it's a massive improvement.

>>1376759
>It's harder to find details about batteries for custom builds

It's more that for custom builds you simply need to rely upon your knowledge/experience to infer what sort of battery you need, rather than expecting to find something that will just tell you 'use this one'.

[Anonymous No.1376888]

>>1376878
>rely upon knowledge/experience

Yeah, that's hard when I'm popping my cherry here, especially when sensitive to the budget. That's why I appreciate the spoon-feeding I can get here to validate/correct me.

[Anonymous No.1377227]

>>1376759
>Used code HOBBYKING10 and got 10% off. I imagine that code isn't unique to my account so I hope it can help someone else out too.
fuck i knew i should have checked /diy/ one more time before ordering my shit yesterday...

[Anonymous No.1377307]

>>1376888
Not to be a critic, but how much do bubbles/wrinkles in covering film/tape play into flying especially if using a flight controller like pixhawk?
I know there is parasitic drag and need to trim, but even after ironing and using heat gun, day after some parts wrinkle and fill with bubbles.

[Anonymous No.1377368]

>>1377307
I've been worrying about this too, as there are quite a few bubbles and creases in the tape. I'm not too worried though, as my uncle's flying wing looks like shit from crashing so much and still flies fine. Also, people mount all sorts of things to their wings and they fly fine.

Any other input from more experienced people?

[Anonymous No.1377388]

>>1377368
It's a common misconception that a rough surface results in more drag. Unless it starts to affect the shape of the airfoil you shouldn't really worry about it, and with lower Reynold numbers having a rough surface can actually be a benefit.
Fucking nigger forum won't let me upload a golf ball baka

[Anonymous No.1377390]

Finished all the power wiring, test powered it with no smoke, so now the top plate is on & I can start on all the FC & receiver wiring :)

[Anonymous No.1377395]

>>1377388
reroll

[Anonymous No.1377407]

>>1377388
would affecting the shape of airfoil be a layers of tape?
Also how much of an effect would it have if the elevator/rudder had rough surfaces?
I doubt a golf ball with dimples can be compared to random wrinkles in the craft

[Anonymous No.1377422]

>>1377407
>would affecting the shape of airfoil be a layers of tape?
Pretty insignificant i'd say.

>Also how much of an effect would it have if the elevator/rudder had rough surfaces?
Wouldn't change much as said before, perhaps it causes a bit more drag but nothing too serious.

>I doubt a golf ball with dimples can be compared to random wrinkles in the craft
It's a good illustration that shows how a turbulent boundary layer is less prone to separation. This is also relevant for airfoils at low Re, where laminar separation bubbles can affect the performance.
For higher Reynolds numbers this isn't an issue and it's better to keep the boundary layer laminar over a longer section, because a turbulent boundary layer has higher skin friction.
But since this is an RC thread the dimensions and speeds tend to be low, so roughness is actually something you'd want.

[Anonymous No.1377456]

How expensive is it to get into diy rc planes? I'd prefer to buy something once and not have to upgrade later.

[Anonymous No.1377473]

>>1377456
I'm just starting and I'm a buy once/cry once but stay budget minded guy because I get all my "fun money" by watching stupid videos on my cell phone. So it takes me about a week to get $10. I just ordered $200 (pic plus a charger and stuff on eBay) worth of parts and that will get me in the air with a DIY wing (Google tern 2.0) with a good range and battery life. When the budget allows, I'll add fpv.

[Anonymous No.1377593]

>>1377456
>I'd prefer to buy something once

Breaking things is part of this hobby, you're going to have upkeep costs.

[Anonymous No.1377614]

>>1377422
I didn't know turbulent boundary layers last longer? Why is that?

[Anonymous No.1377626]

>>1377473
what app gives you money for watching vids? dafuq

[Anonymous No.1377641]

>>1377626
I used to make $5/day running PerkTV on a phone overnight. That was years ago tho. Not sure if it still works.

[Anonymous No.1377660]

Anybody know a good site to learn how to make small uav? Preferrably one with a programmable flight path.

[Anonymous No.1377661]

>>1377593
Yeah, I know things will break, but the more expensive things (tx/rx) should mostly be fine.

>>1377626
Yeah, I use perktv and swagbucks. They used to be great and I'd get around $10/day but now they're crap. Most people who start aren't patient enough to cash out. You can build a robot to automate perk (push I'm still watching every few hours) but it has to be physical. Phone automating apps will get you banned.

[Anonymous No.1377673]

>>1377660
Start reading your way through the ardupilot wiki

http://ardupilot.org/ardupilot/

[Anonymous No.1377695]

do you people actually register your shit? will they give me a hard time at a local club if mine isn't?

[Anonymous No.1377696]

>>1377695
no?
https://i.4cdn.org/wsg/1525101522754.webm

[Anonymous No.1377697]

>>1377614
Turbulence is quite complicated tbqh, i'm not going to pretend i know all the details let alone compress it into a single post, but here are some wiki articles if you're interested.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flow_separation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laminar_flow
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbulence
And google is your friend.

[Anonymous No.1377849]

Does anyone have experience running a 2.4ghz controller with a 1.2ghz vtx and a low pass filter? I've seen videos of it failing and videos of it getting great range.

[Anonymous No.1377889]

>>1377849
I don't have experience running 2.4GHz & 1.2GHz, but I recently asked a similar question in the Ardupilot facebook group about running 433MHz & 868MHz on the same copter - apparently the second harmonic is far less of an issue than the third harmonic. They didn't say why, though.

[Anonymous No.1378141]

Where can I check the compatibility of the parts that I want to buy for the drone I want to build, and its estimated performance?

Also, what's some good reads for starting off building drones?

[Anonymous No.1378262]

I recently acquired a fully built drone with DJI Naza Lite.
Do I need the V2 power distribution or can I use the Lite setup for upgrading to V2?

[Anonymous No.1378287]

Does anybody here know anything about rc boats because I am just making this up as I go

[Anonymous No.1378290]

>>1378287

[Anonymous No.1378340]

>>1378141
I haven't seen any all-in-one calculators like that that are good for amateurs. I'd recommend picking what airframe/size of craft you want first. Then pick your receiver. Now you have to pick your ESC, Flight controller (if quads), motor(s), and battery. These things will all go together and could drastically change the performance. You'll want to find combos and get the weight of your craft and see how the thrust aligns with the weight. For planes/wings, a good thrust/weight ratio is 1.25.

[Anonymous No.1378341]

>>1378290

[Anonymous No.1378494]

Hey gents,
I've just developed interest in the idea of aerial photography and RC/drones. My only prior experience is a little $30 helicopter from one of those mall stands that I got as a gift.

Right now my budget is about $200, and I am after the following (if possible for the money):
1) Stream of video from aircraft to controller
2) ~15-20min of flight time.
3) As long a control range as I can get for that price/range/ability.

Are there any decent options out there for that price range?

[Anonymous No.1378506]

>>1378494
$200 will be not enough.
Get an FrSky Q-X7 transmitter, a Quanum Nova, Quanum 3D or 2D gimbal, Runcam 3 or GoPro Session 4/5, ImmersionRC 600mW 5.8GHz Video TX, Quanum 5.8GHz receiver and the Hobbyking DIY goggles, take the screen and make a groundstation from a smaller toolcase.
You can find these at Hobbyking, these are the bare minimum you need for aerial photography/video.

[Anonymous No.1378509]

>>1378506
Oh, and a number of batteries and a charger.

[Anonymous No.1378534]

>>1378494
>(if possible for the money)
>$200
It's not

[Anonymous No.1378576]

>>1378506
>>1378534
Well balls.
Reading over your posts, it's fair to say the video recording/transmitting is the biggest expenditure, right?

Would $200 even get me a flying airframe/platform that meets my goals?

Other questions:
Are quad/multi-copters the only real route for a hobbyist wanting to have a flying real-time camera or are fixed wing designs viable? If so, are they any cheaper than quads?

Finally, is DIYing a camera drone cheaper then buying a ready-to-fly drone?

[Anonymous No.1378731]

>>1378494
>>1378506
>>1378509
>>1378534
>>1378576

If you want to get into aerial photography, DIY simply isn't a sensible path. Save up a little more money & keep checking local ads/stores for a second hand Phantom 3.

[Anonymous No.1378771]

Alright, I am planning on building a drone for aerial photography, etc, and so far here are the parts that I've managed to pick:

Frame:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/X525-V3-QuadCopter-X-copter-Folding-Frame-Friber-Glass-MultiCoptor-KK-MK-MWC/182136231708?hash=item2a682a571c:g:YooAAOxyBPZTh~s7

Motors:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brushless-Propeller-Adapter-Quadcopter-Multicopter/dp/B073WVC37F/ref=sr_1_45_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525204661&sr=8-45-spons&keywords=quadcopter+motor+set&psc=1

ESCs:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brushless-Propeller-Adapter-Quadcopter-Multicopter/dp/B073WVC37F/ref=sr_1_45_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525204661&sr=8-45-spons&keywords=quadcopter+motor+set&psc=1

Flight Controller (either one of those, advice welcome on which one to buy):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Betaflight-F7-RV1-Flight-Controller-buillt-in-OSD-with-Dual-Gyros-for-Quadcopter/122953406492?hash=item1ca098181c:g:sgIAAOSwLs9aeSKP

or

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BetaFlight-OSD-FC-Omnibus-3-2-0-F4-Flight-Controller-for-FPV-Racing-Quadcopters/142681426845?hash=item213879cb9d:g:O~sAAOSw1RVaeXOf

And now some things I can't figure out:
1.Are there any requirements for the PDB I will need?

2.What battery should I buy in order for it to be able to stay in the air for around 15-20 minutes?

3. Any good props for my build? I search for some 9-10 inch carbon fiber ones but they amazon didn't sell them anymore, and ebay is just a bunch of cheap 3-4 inch props.

If the parts that I've picked are complete trash or unfit for the scenario I want to use them for, suggest what worked best for you. I only want to get this thing into the air for around 200-250 euros and then buy a cheap action cam, or save up for a more expensive and better one.

[Anonymous No.1378773]

>>1378771
wrong link for the ESCs

here's the correct one

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MakerStack-BLHeli-Brushless-Controller-QAV250/dp/B071VW695J/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1525204901&sr=8-29&keywords=esc

[Anonymous No.1378807]

>>1378576
>fixed wing designs viable
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TX172JqcD-4

[Anonymous No.1378863]

is this correct:

battery>power distribution board>ESCs & FC

also, does the PDB need to be able to withstand the current that it's going to run through it? Does it need to be let's say a 100A or something like that or any that outputs the required voltages will do?

[Anonymous No.1378887]

>>1378731
I'd disagree that DIY is not a sensible path, maybe it hits your wallet hard at first, but in the long run it's the best route to take for repairing and replacing parts, buying a done "customer friendly" platform limits the choices later and every wrong decision in start hits the wallet harder in the long run.
I'd say 500usd is an ok starting point for a cheap multirotor, qx7, pixhawk clone, simplebgc 3/2 axis gimbals and basic up to 1km radio/telemetry/fpv range but you can always go cheaper with th9x for radio and using noname brands and non-auto fcs, all depends how much money he's prepared to waste. You can get fpv ready quads from readytosky on aliexpress for 160usd with pixhawk already with it, not sure about payload but a good start if he has no idea how to use ecalc or just follow outdated recommendations for builds. There is some basic start cost as suggested before with qx7, fpv and other equipment.
He has to decide it himself if he just wants a ready to fly drones for photos or does he really want to invest in the hobby and start doing his own stuff, builds and so on.

>>1378863
I have a simple "PDB" from hobbyking which is simply a breadboard to connect your equipment to it. If a pdb has a step down converter, then those have rating how much they can output, usually stated in the specifications. ESCs go directly to the battery voltage and the only thing that has to withstand the current are the cable diameter and the battery mAh/C rating which you should have calculated before on ecalc or by yourself to see if it is enough to supply your motors and system. Also ESCs are rated for 3s,4s or more s batts, and some have built in BEC for you to connect servos or 5v equipment.
PDBs with converters are recommended since FCs can't withstand high currents and having a lot of fpv, telemetry, servos connected can reset your FC mid flight, fry the voltage regulator on it or simply make some equipment work unpredictable.

[Anonymous No.1378894]

>>1378887
This is the frame I've been wanting to buy

https://www.ebay.com/itm/S500-Quadcopter-Fuselage-Frame-Kit-PCB-Version-w-Carbon-Fiber-Landing-Gear-Skid/252314170631?hash=item3abf18b507:g:o4wAAOSwlY1ZJI6Y

From what you told me, the PDB that it has on it is just to connect the battery to the ESCs through that dummy board.

I am guessing I will need a separate PDB to power the FC and all the other stuff that need a lower voltage that the LiPo cells output?

Overall, I'm kinda lost. Every new article that I read adds new, often overlapping information to the previous ones. So if you could spare some time to walk me through some stuff, that'd be awesome.

1. Are some chinese 7000 mAh 50-60C batteries any good? Because they're pretty cheap at around 60-70 euros and the Tattu ones are like double the price. Is it worth cheaping out on the battery?

2. What does a FC needs to have? I only want to be able to fly the thing, I don't need fancy autopilot stuff, only stabilization but I'm guessing that's should be the standard for most of them. I've narrowed my search to these two:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BetaFlight-OSD-FC-Omnibus-3-2-0-F4-Flight-Controller-for-FPV-Racing-Quadcopters/142681426845?hash=item213879cb9d:g:O~sAAOSw1RVaeXOf

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Betaflight-F7-RV1-Flight-Controller-buillt-in-OSD-with-Dual-Gyros-for-Quadcopter/122953406492?hash=item1ca098181c:g:sgIAAOSwLs9aeSKP

From what I understand, the F7 one has a more powerful ARM CPU, and an additional gyro, which I'm guessing helps even more with stability? Is any of these 2 a good choice? If not could you please suggest a under 50ish euro alternative?

3. What features does an ESC need to have? Apart from being able to withstand the maximum current that the motor can draw. From what I've read and understood, I've narrowed down my search to this ESC:

https://www.gearbest.com/esc/pp_1089588.html

4. What brands are good for each part? Do they even matter?

[Anonymous No.1378919]

>>1378887
The frame is ok for starters, you can probably get it cheaper via aliexpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/500mm-S500-Quadcopter-Multicopter-Frame-Kit-PCB-Version-with-Carbon-Fiber-Landing-Gear-for-FPV-Quad/727847_32304446878.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.2bc815b7xBGTnQ
direct from readytosky seller, I don't know where you are located or if you prefer paypal or not, try to search hobbyking/banggood/aliexpress for similar prices, ebay is mostly sellers from aliexpress selling for a higher price.
Let's start with a flight controller. STMF4 is more then enough if you plan on running betaflight/inav, it has to have barometer for position hold and altitude hold and to be viable for any iNav missions (I cheaped out thinking I could add external baro, omnibus fcs don't support that unless you know how to program stm32). I suggest banggood for FC, this one has integrated OSD for fpv
https://www.banggood.com/Omnibus-F4-Pro-V3-Betaflight-Flight-Controller-Built-in-OSD-Barometer-SD-Blackbox-for-RC-Drone-p-1163085.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
and has baro for inav operations, you'll need to get GPS module which is around 15usd and a holder for the same GPS to move it away from motors and cables (since the compass will go crazy if it's too close).
You can also try getting a pixhawk clone, banggood has reliable ones, I ordered recently one and put it to test on my quad and now I'm installing it in a fpv plane which I'll show in a few weeks when everything arrives and I do maiden.
Here's the pixhawk
https://www.banggood.com/Pixhawk-PX4-2_4_8-Flight-Controller-32-Bit-ARM-PX4FMU-PX4IO-Combo-for-Multicopters-p-1040416.html?rmmds=myorder
You can read about the functions on ardupilot and see if it suits your needs more for fpv or any "smart" missions you could possibly do.
I'd suggest a 4in1 turnigy multistar ESC for weight reductions and cable reduction, get an external 5v bec if you plan on powering 5v servos. Cont.

[Anonymous No.1378926]

>>1378894
cont.
You can get 4 escs if you're building a quad, but you'll have to plan accordingly. 4in1 reduces space and costs even less then 4 separate escs. Just watch the current rating. Brands, I'm not informed about brands since I buy lower quality goods, turnigy is hobbykings brand if i'm not mistaken and it's suprisingly good, haven't tried readytosky or sunnysky or other low cost brands, but you should hit the reviews for the esc/motor/component you're looking and see if it fails or has any problems , rcgroups and forums are your friend here, google every part and see how it performs.
Concerning batteries, I don't know where you are from, but here in EU we can't import batteries from China since Samshit ruined it for everyone so I can't vouch for chinese batteries.
I have zippy batteries from hobbyking, they are ok and I haven't had any problems with them, again, look for comments, ratings and reviews if a particular product tends to have problems.
If you're in EU I did find a german battery maker which has high capacity batteries with lower weight then usual from http://lipoworld.de/
I tried their 4s batts and they are amazing.
Don't go especially cheap on a battery but remember that for your quad to hold a 5000mah+ battery it has to have a big payload, pay for ecalc and just put the components you picked inside the calculator and it will tell you how viable your build is, what your flight time will be, prop size and payload.

[Anonymous No.1378933]

>>1378887
I've built all sorts of multirotors, including a Pixhawk quad for aerial photography, but I also work in commercial aerial photography with DJI gear (mainly a dual-control Inspire) & I also own a Spark myself, so I'm talking from actual first hand experience of the whole ecosystem when I say that DIY & AP simply doesn't make sense for the overwhelming majority of users.

Probably the biggest factor & the one that most people seem to ignore when eagerly telling hopeful DIYers to strap an action camera gimbal to a Flamewheel clone (eg >>1378506), is that a HD video downlink & proper remote control of the camera is honestly the most basic requirement of any AP setup. Simply being able to stop recording video to instead take a photo is really fundamental functionality that even an absolute beginner to AP will find themselves wanting to be able to do.

A second hand older generation Phantom, or a brand new Spark, gives you these fundamental features for <$500 in a turnkey package with everything perfectly integrated into a hardware & software system that lets you focus completely on your photography (which is the whole point of an AP setup).

To build a DIY copter with a HD video downlink & even just rudimentary camera control, would require you to spend more than $500 on *just* the video link & the camera control gear. That's *not* including the cost of the actual copter itself, nor the camera, nor the radio, batteries, charger, etc.

And all this is without even starting to think about the multitude of quality-of-life improvements that something like a DJI setup gives you - vision based automated flight modes, subject tracking, quickshots, etc. are honestly a very useful addition to even an experienced aerial cinematographer's toolkit.

[Anonymous No.1378934]

>>1378933
[continued]

I know this is /diy/ & that the sort of people posting here asking about AP builds are going to be the sort of people who will get a lot of enjoyment out of designing, building, tweaking, breaking & fixing their own copter. However if you want an AP platform to actually do AP with, DIY is simply not the way.

[Anonymous No.1378951]

>>1378933
I agree with you and thanks for your words.
People in start can't set realistic goals for their platforms and set the budgets, and I doubt anybody of us here has had zero problems since getting into this hobby.
It all depends on the purpose of the platform and personal preference of the anon who asked for build help.

[Anonymous No.1378966]

>>1368754
If I'm using fixed speed variable pitch drives, how do I control yaw?

[Anonymous No.1379016]

>>1378926
>>1378919
fuck thanks for the time and effort you put into this.

in general, my goal is to build just the drone for videos/photos for around 200 euros, with a 15-20 min air time. I'll then later buy an action cam and a mount and mount it to the drone, so it has to do that.

if I later buy a GPS module, where does it connect to the FC, and will it be able, say return to a specific geo coordinate or will I just be able to track it say if it crashed?

As for the 4 in one ESC that you mentioned, is it that cheaper that 4 separate ones? I don't mind paying around 10 euros more for separate ones, bc I was planning on mounting them on the arms of the drone, in order to save space in the center of it for cameras and other stuff. Also, most of them mention e.g. 40A rating, and they don't mention whether if this applies to the total current or the current for each motor.

Anyway, if you don't have a go-to 4 in 1 ESC, could you please suggest me one to buy 4 of them? Most of them are advertised as replacements for some kind of rc vehicle.

As for the motors, I figured I should go with a ~1000KV 2212 motor with a 9 or a 10 inch prop, is it going to be enough to do the lifting or is it overkill? It's prolly stupid to ask this without including the net weight of the vehicle, but could you come up with a rough estimation?

should I just buy this kit that includes the ESCs as well and be done with it?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs-A2212-1000KV-1200KV-1400KV-Brushless-Motor-4pcs-XXD-30A-ESC-for-Multicopter-450-X525-Quadcopter/32789823686.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.40.1a572a1fbtwaIX&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10151_10065_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_10698_10696_10084_10083_10618_10304_10307_10302_10059_308_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_19,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=fa4d77ef-cde2-4f36-b7e2-e2d100356fc4-5&algo_pvid=fa4d77ef-cde2-4f36-b7e2-e2d100356fc4&priceBeautifyAB=0

[Anonymous No.1379026]

>>1379016
cont.

and what props will those motors need? are 9/10 inches props suitable?

as for the battery, how much capacity will I need?

a random calculator I found says that a 4000mAh battery will give me around 15 mins of flight, which I am pretty happy with (taking into account only the load from the motors)

last thing for now, hope I am not that big of a nuisance, will the frame that I posted earlier need a PDB in order to power the FC and other sensors, like the GPS I mentioned in my previous post earlier on?

[Anonymous No.1379031]

>>1379016
You see that thing in the red circle? Those things are fucking garbage and literally the only place you still see them is from shitty ebay/ali sellers trying to shift obsolete stock. Look for more modern motors that have threaded shafts (the bit in green should be a standard thread, not smooth).

[Anonymous No.1379043]

>>1379031
what's the problem with it? because I could only find 2 or 3 motors with threading on their shaft and all of them were 25+ USD for just one of them, which is really expensive for me.

[Anonymous No.1379066]

>>1379043
>>1379026
1st step- pay for ecalc and learn how to use it
2nd step - pick frame, look for examples of motors that fit that frame or kits that include similar motors, look for the motors on hobbyking, banggood, ali (you can get threaded motors from turnigy for 10usd, all depends on kv/type)
after that just calculate all the weight it will have (gimbal, fc, weight for cables, battery and so on) so you can have a precise estimate. Don't use random calculators, there is only ecalc, I've used it several times and it has never let me down. It will tell what props are for you, what motors to look for and what you can expect from your quad.
For 200 euros you will hardly get a quad capable of flying 20 minutes if you just take in account that a good radio will cost 100 euros (qx7). Don't go for th9x or 9xpro since you will want more functions it can't provide (telemetry, 8bitvs32bit, voice, better gimbals and so on).
Use ecalc, scout banggood and hobbyking or simply buy a kit from aliexpress like this one with pixhawk clone
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/S500-PCB-Frame-Kit-500mm-PCB-Board-with-Carbon-Fiber-Landing-Gear-2212-920kv-motor-30A/32808795102.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.11.5ba93a87Xwmc5H&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10152_10151_10065_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_10698_10696_10084_10083_10618_10307_10301_10303_10059_308_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=92c12d24-f474-41cf-802f-2edaf1ed8ee1-1&algo_pvid=92c12d24-f474-41cf-802f-2edaf1ed8ee1&priceBeautifyAB=0
You only need to buy 4s battery, radio and receiver for it to fly and it already has gps and functions betaflight/inav can't achieve.
Either way, buying a quadcopter that will give you 20 mins on 200 euros is hardly possible. I have a small quad which was around 120 euros (I didn't pick the parts, my friends followed a 4 year outdated tutorial and I was given to repair this quad several times) and it can fly 12mins on 3000mah 3s batt

[Anonymous No.1379069]

>>1379066
what I meant to say with the quad my friends built is that if you keep adding a bigger battery, the weight increases and the usability and thrust of the platform become bad, so you have to change the configuration, which in turn again changes flight time and price. You have to experiment with different builds and find the one that you are happy with. I repeat, pay for 1 month ecalc, follow youtube tutorials if you can't figure it out and learn it, experiment with different parts, use excel, weight EVERYTHING and put that inside, add current consumption for future upgrades (like gimbal, fpv equipment).
If somebody does give you a platform, it won't help you if you wish to upgrade or change something further down the road.
For betaflight and pixhawk watch painless360, he has good videos, for ardupilot/pixhawk read their wiki, they have great documentation for building quads and connecting everything.

[Anonymous No.1379253]

>>1368754
I want to get the Syma X5C, but I also want to be able to see where its going with a camera. If I change out its battery is there a diy method of strapping a camera to it and view it on another screen?

[Anonymous No.1379298]

>>1379066
>>1379069
this kit pretty much consists mostly of parts that I posted earlier, that's what I'm prolly end up buying.

so If I got this correctly:

1. I only need to buy a handheld radio and a battery.
2. Use ecalc to calculate the best battery for range and thrust/weight (taking into account the maximum payload that is a shitty action cam)

and then with some prop guards I'm ready to fly? seems like a pretty good deal. will any of these parts need to be replaced right away for better ones? also, which flight controller would you suggest me buying (the kit comes with different FC, depending on the version you choose). I saw you suggested the pixhawk clone one, what about the others?

and finally:
3. from what I've read, I've understood that you'll need a separate action cam, if you want to get any footage from your flights, and a separate FPV cam in order to control the drone when it's not in your line of sight. the action cam only needs a proper mount and no connections to the FC, I just press record and the start and the end of each flight, but the FPV requires to be connect to the FPV, and somewhere for power (a PDB I suppose?). I will then also need a VTX and something like a phone or a tablet, or goggles to cast the view of the FPV to a screen near me.

Am I right?

[Anonymous No.1379323]

>>1379298
you need a receiver that is compatible with the radio you will buy.
I suggest xsr since it's compatible with qx7 and other high end frsky radios and has telemetry which will be nice to get battery status and so on.
You use ecalc for everything, you select each component, you can put that config into ecalc and see how it will perform and how much additional payload you can put.
APM is older version of pixhawk, on 8bti atmega chip, pixhawk uses stm32f4. I don't have experience with naza and wouldn't personally suggest it, just go with pixhawk, documentation is great and you'll be doing auto-missions in a jiffy.
For fpv, you'll want a low latency cam and setup to output your video. You can get a low end setup for as low as 30 usd for the camera+rx+tx, search for eachine rotg, you can connect it to your phone/computer but it's not made for fpv racing since it has high latency but will be enough for you to experience fpv firsthand.
Eachine low end cameras are shit honestly, I took one for 8usd and it hurts my eyes, but it's a start. Oscar Liang, Bardwell and others usually put some recommendations for cheap fpv setups so search for their blogs/youtube channels to see what you can expect.
People usually have several cams if they are flying fpv, one camera is for direct fpv to your screen, and the second camera usually just records the flight, you'll usually record flights on gopro cameras and use other cameras to see the video feed. Gopro, mobius and other cams do have video out and you can stream that video to your fpv ground station, it all depends on your setup.
I have foxeer micro predator with 2 axis servo gimbal on plane for headtracker so I can see where I'm flying and a chink gopro clone on a anti-vibration pad which is fixed and used to simply record the flight. On the quad I have, I'm directly connected to mobius and use it for fpv and image processing I do on my ground station.

[Anonymous No.1379326]

>>1379298
https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-ROTG01-UVC-OTG-5_8G-150CH-Full-Channel-FPV-Receiver-For-Android-Mobile-Phone-Smartphone-p-1147692.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-TS832-FPV-5_8G-32CH-600mW-Wireless-AV-Transmitter-p-975425.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-1000TVL-13-CCD-110-Degree-2_8mm-Lens-Mini-FPV-Camera-NTSC-PAL-Switchable-p-1053340.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
I'm not saying it's great, but it's an ok place to start. You can get vrbox goggles for your phone and use them as fpv goggles but it's not comparable to any goggles on the market as the quality will be shitty. You can also invest in goggles like diy quanum goggles or some cheap eachine goggles which have already built in receiver, depends what you like more.

[Anonymous No.1379331]

>>1379323
Naza M Lite is, while a gimped version of the M V2, an easy and no fuss solution for a DIY quad, ideal for first time builders.
It lacks in the tuning department but if you don't build an overly unbalanced drone it will fly nicely. Slowly but nicely.
I started with APM some years ago, and it flew well but it was such a fuss, every flight for a month was a maiden, I could never go out for a proper turn without worry.
My next build (current one with gimbal and runcam) was a good base frame bundled with a Naza M Lite. After initial calibration and the compass dance it flew right away and had my first proper no fuss fly around on the maiden. It gave me so much confidence that my next build was a racer. I still keep the slug as my fly around FPV fun drone, so the old Naza FCs still have their place.

[Anonymous No.1379353]

>>1379043

$10 each

https://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-Racing-Edition-2216-BR2216-1400KV-2-4S-Brushless-Motor-For-350-380-400-450-Frame-Kit-p-1083208.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

[Anonymous No.1379354]

>>1379043
The friction mount can slip in rotation or slip off completely which is not wanted when your craft hangs on the propellers directly.

[Anonymous No.1379357]

>>1379354
>>1379353
So the motors in this kit

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/S500-PCB-Frame-Kit-500mm-PCB-Board-with-Carbon-Fiber-Landing-Gear-2212-920kv-motor-30A/32808795102.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.11.5ba93a87Xwmc5H&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10152_10151_10065_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_10698_10696_10084_10083_10618_10307_10301_10303_10059_308_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=92c12d24-f474-41cf-802f-2edaf1ed8ee1-1&algo_pvid=92c12d24-f474-41cf-802f-2edaf1ed8ee1&priceBeautifyAB=0

are fine, right?

>>1379323
>>1379326
thanks for taking the time to type these out.

the D config of this kit (the 160 USD one) (link above bc word limit won't allow me to fit it)

comes w/ the Naza-M FC. I went through its manual and couldn't find anything about connecting an FPV cam to it, does the pixhawk support connecting FPVs to it?

also are these the radio transmitter/receiver you mentioned earlier or are these some chink knock-offs?

https://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_604499.html?vip=4264809&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5qrXBRC3ARIsAJq3bwoKHLEbLzcpxZkztF0x9CKjgr44YPTBeIWGY0gt_CazGQnOmpN7gm0aAqkHEALw_wcB

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-arrival-FrSky-XSR-2-4GHz-16CH-receiver-for-X9D-plus-X9E-X12S-transmitter-radio-S/32839501578.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.796b1ad1oTZXYQ&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10151_10065_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_10698_10696_10084_10083_10618_10304_10307_10302_10059_308_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_19,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=753de2bc-4762-489e-9420-7929148d02c8-0&algo_pvid=753de2bc-4762-489e-9420-7929148d02c8&priceBeautifyAB=0

[Anonymous No.1379359]

>>1379357
Looks to be fine, but try to order a set of extra arms (4 pieces), those are DJI Flamewheel knockoffs and tend to be a bit twisted once in a while even from shipping, so you have enough to sort through and get 4 okay arms.
The FPV is kind of separate, powers off of the same battery but the FC has nothing to do with it. It's a VTX with a 5V regulator built inside, connected to an FPV camera (Runcam Eagle or Runcam 3 if you want to record as well)
You will need at least a screen with receiver or a good set of goggles.
The FPV mostly runs on a 5.8GHz system, be sure the VTX and VRX are both working in the same band. Try and get a 600mW VTX, 250mW basic Fatshark is the bare minimum for these kind of drones.

[Anonymous No.1379360]

>>1379357
Also go with the D and throw away the props. Get the DJI style 10'' Master Airscrew multicopter props from Hobbyking and a few (at least 4) sets of centering rings (not sure if you'll need it but good to have)

[Anonymous No.1379361]

>>1379360
>>1379359
so I will need a separate PDB if I want to connect an FPV system later on?

or will I need a PDB anyway because the any of those FCs can't take the battery voltage?

will this do the trick?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-2-6S-Power-distribution-board-5V-12V-Dual-BEC-LC-filter-3-in-1-PCB/32707283096.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.24.698250e8lgKHim&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10151_10065_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_10698_10696_10084_10083_10618_10304_10307_10302_10059_308_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_19,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=9d13dac4-e554-4b50-8a71-91e8e71498f3-3&algo_pvid=9d13dac4-e554-4b50-8a71-91e8e71498f3&priceBeautifyAB=0

could you also link the props you're mentioning to? I tried hobby king but couldn't find any props with the name you mentioned.

finally, should I go with the Naza FC or the pixhawk one? people above said that they're both good, but are there any main differences between the two?

[Anonymous No.1379363]

>>1379361
The kit has it's own PDB, but the extra with the regulators might come in handy. Usually the VTX has it's own 5V regulator to power the camera.
The receiver you listed is a CPPM only, good for racers, not sure about the Naza. Get an D8R II Plus instead to be sure.

[Anonymous No.1379365]

>>1379361
The difference for a beginner is negligible, but the Naza is much easier to set up. You don't want to mess around with PID loops when you don't even know what the next step is going to be, you have to know 100% what you are doing with the Pixhawk. Then it massively shits on the Naza, but for now I'd say get the Naza and have some flying fun.

[Anonymous No.1379371]

>>1379357
>>1379359
Some of the S500/S550 come with carbon fibre spars in the arms, so it's worth looking for the better version of that particular frame.

[Anonymous No.1379375]

>>1379357
>>1379359
>>1379371

Also if you're buying from China, consider using banggood instead of ali - they have a better range of newer RC stuff & are unbeatable aftercare when it comes to chinawarehouses.

[Anonymous No.1379399]

>>1379365
can I easily set up the pixhawk and start flying and then start messing with its more advanced settings? or is it simply not possible?

[Anonymous No.1379400]

>>1379399
No. You have to know what you are doing for setting it up. That is why I said to get the Naza. You can replace it later with the Pixhawk, but for first time builder the Naza is better by miles.

[Anonymous No.1379516]

>>1379031
How do you ensure your prop will stay tight on the threaded portion? I have a prop on a threaded shaft with the correct sized spacer and I've threaded a washer and nut down really really tight, but the prop can still kind of spin between the spacer and prop. Spacer might not be the right word, the little circle things that make the prop hole diameter fit the shaft. Like the spacer spins with the shaft, but the prop (with medium resistance) doesn't spin.

[Anonymous No.1379552]

is it worth making a 4 cell battery out of 18650 Li-ion cells instead of buying a Li-Po battery?

[Anonymous No.1379554]

>>1379552
No. LiPos are made from matched cells and are much lighter than hard case Li-Ion batteries in metal casings.

[Anonymous No.1379566]

>>1379552
>>1379554
The important difference is that LiPo have substantially higher discharge than Li-Ion. The only things that can fly from Li-Ion are small fixed wing (eg >>1373264) & some large endurance quad builds that use lots of cells (eg 14"+ props & dozens of 18650s).

>>1379516
You just need to tighten the nut more. It helps if you use a serrated flanged nyloc nut.

[Anonymous No.1379579]

>>1379566
Those nuts cause lots of vibrations that is impossible to balance out. Friction lock is good for fixed wings but to be avoided at all cost on multicopters.
I am speaking from experience BTW.

[Anonymous No.1379620]

>>1379579
...are you saying nyloc nuts cause vibrations?

[Anonymous No.1379657]

>>1379620
Yes. They are never centered and the nylon inserts always push it on one side.

[Anonymous No.1379965]

>>1379657
I know this is true for some low quality nylocs (most notoriously those bundled with the Emax RS2205S) but decent ones (especially CNC'd aluminium ones) are just fine. Literally the entire FPV community uses them, including all of the people that fly those gorgeously smooth unstabilised miniquad videos you see on YouTube/Facebook etc. I personally use them with no problems on everything from 3" to 13". I've certainly had some bad ones in the past that might have contributed to tuning issues, but replacing them with decent ones wasn't exactly hard.

[Anonymous No.1380433]

What is typical channel bandwidth of FPV working on 1,2GHz?
I can't find anything about it anywhere and I'm running out of hair on my head

[Anonymous No.1380435]

>>1380433
Look at the waterfall?

[Anonymous No.1380436]

>>1380433
Why would you want to know? Just buy the VTx and VRx and set the channel, that is it.
I fly 5.8GHz and I don't know the frequencies. I only know Fatshark 1 or Raceband 4 and it just works.

[Anonymous No.1380437]

>>1380435
I can't

[Anonymous No.1380438]

>>1380436
I'm participating in conteest need to specify bandwidth to fill required papers

[Anonymous No.1380439]

>>1380433
>>1380438
Really depends on your VTx. Do you still have the manual or do you have the VTx number so you can look it up on google?
As far as I know 1.2GHz is not as standardized as 5.8GHz and there are lots of forbidden bands in the range not to distract aircraft or GPS communication. It isn't something that can be answered as easily as asking on a north korean basket weaving forum.

[Anonymous No.1380441]

>>1380439
I didn't bought one yet, so any with power about 800mW will work for me, but I did googled some of them and found nothing, sometime not even site of manufacturer

[Anonymous No.1380444]

>>1380441
Try looking on Hobbyking and look in the files section on the product page

[Anonymous No.1380459]

Well, it's all built. I'll probably be maidening it today wish me luck.

[Anonymous No.1380465]

>>1380459
>3.01 MB, 4032x1960
Do you expect me to click on it?

[Anonymous No.1380467]

>>1380465
Mejor?

[Anonymous No.1380474]

>>1380467
I would cover up the top of the motor mount for better streamlining

[Anonymous No.1380581]

>>1380459
Welp, I crashed and have to build a new one.

[Anonymous No.1380583]

>>1380581
Good job! Wrong CG?

[Anonymous No.1380586]

>>1380581
>Welp, I crashed and have to build a new one.

that wouldn't be so bad IF YOU HAD A VIDEO.

[Anonymous No.1380597]

>>1380586
inb4 it crashed right after throwing it the wrong way

[Anonymous No.1380627]

>>1380581
He didn't fly so good!

[Anonymous No.1380631]

Whats the best, cheap, smaller drone that has a good FPV vr headset to go with it?

[Anonymous No.1380655]

Would this be a place I could find help finding/replacing a motor. The only one I've found online has been out of stock for a year now...

[Anonymous No.1380659]

>>1380631
Used ones bundled with fatshark goggles on ebay

[Anonymous No.1380674]

>>1380586
Yeah, my wife tried to film it but only got the part where she does "ooh no!" after the crash.
I'm in SoCal and it's hard to find public, open areas nearby I went to a field of 6 soccer fields but there were tons of stadium lights and I almost hit one, rolled, and pulled "up" (aka right into the ground).

On a new note, is it easier to fly a wing with a wider or shorter chord? Thinking about making a blunt nose wing now. I like the 45-55" wingspan, as all my electronics are still okay.

[Anonymous No.1380943]

So, as in some earlier posts of mine, I am going to buy this kit when I save up enough money (the D config that costs 160 USD)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/S500-PCB-Frame-Kit-500mm-PCB-Board-with-Carbon-Fiber-Landing-Gear-2212-920kv-motor-30A/32808795102.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.11.5ba93a87Xwmc5H&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10152_10151_10065_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_10698_10696_10084_10083_10618_10307_10301_10303_10059_308_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=92c12d24-f474-41cf-802f-2edaf1ed8ee1-1&algo_pvid=92c12d24-f474-41cf-802f-2edaf1ed8ee1&priceBeautifyAB=0

Where am I supposed to connect everything together? I've seen some videos where ppl solder the battery leads directly to the PCB of the frame and then the ESCs to each of their respective leads on the frame's PCB. Is that correct?

Also how am I gonna power the FC and prolly other accessories that can't handle the battery's voltage? I've so far found only this PDB that unfortunately only supports 20A per ESC, while the kit's ones are rated for 30A. Is there a good PDB that can withstand at least 30A of current per ESC and that can be bought from ebay or ali?

The PDB I've found:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Hub-Power-Distribution-Board-PDB-with-BEC-5V-12V-for-Quadcopter-F16892/281978420760?hash=item41a7393e18:g:0lgAAOSw-0xYT2zF

[Anonymous No.1380953]

>>1380943
The S500 has a PDB but only for the battery voltage. The PDB you got as extra has 5V and 12V regulators which is great. If the ESCs have regulators (BEC) then they can do bad things connected together, so only connect the ESCs with the signal cable, get the red and black leads (thin ones) disconnected. The GND will go through to the battery lead in the ESC (the thicker battery leads plus and minus still need to be connected to the VCC or battery connectors).
The NAZA has its own 5V regulator and the FPV gear will have its own as well, so the extra regulators will only need to be used for the LED strips and whatever you will put in the frame later. Be creative.

[Anonymous No.1380956]

>>1380953
So basically:

Solder an XT-60 connector to the frame where the battery comes in so I can easily connect/disconnect it

Solder the ESCs main power to the PCB of the frame so they can get their power

Connect the ESCs to the motors

I still haven't understood how you connect the FC to a power source. Can you tell me how I need to wire it up and if the things I said above are correct?

Also, the ESCs in the pic are those included in the kit. I can see a black/red wire which goes to the battery, 3 female plugs where the motor connects to, and a 3 wire (black/red/white) that connect to the FC. Are those black/red wires the ones that supply 5V to the FC or they're responsible for the PWM signal?

[Anonymous No.1380959]

>>1380956
The Naza has a small black box with leads coming in and out. That is the regulator. You connect it to the battery, the other connector goes into the FC. The manual will go into details, but that is really it.
The three wires, black, red, white are the "servo connectors", black is GND, same as the battery minus. Red is usually the BEC 5V, and the white is the PWM signal.

[Anonymous No.1380960]

>>1380956
Also note the ESCs connect with 3 wires to the motors, you can easily switch the direction of rotation by switching any two wires.

[Anonymous No.1380961]

>>1380959
so I need to cut the black and red wire that go from the ESC to the FC so that it won't send the extra voltage to the FC and then I'll be okay?

[Anonymous No.1380962]

>>1380961
Cut and insulate, or just solder them off the ESC.

[Anonymous No.1380963]

>>1380962
Alright, will do.

Thanks senpai.

[Anonymous No.1381003]

>>1380953
>only connect the ESCs with the signal cable, get the red and black leads (thin ones) disconnected.

>>1380961
>so I need to cut the black and red wire that go from the ESC to the FC

There is no need to remove the signal ground (thin black wire) & arguably there can actually be a benefit in leaving it connected & twisted with the signal (thin white wire).

[Anonymous No.1381011]

>>1381003
It can create a ground loop, feeding back interference and noise into all the electronics.
You should avoid ground loops at any cost, especially in a build where RF communication is crucial.

[Anonymous No.1381018]

>>1381011
The chance of there being different ground potentials between FC & ESCs is almost non-existant. And one surefire way to prevent it would be to leave the signal ground connected. And if you're concerned about interference, having your ESC signal wires running without being a twisted pair with ground should be a huge red flag to you.

[Anonymous No.1381020]

>>1381018
A leaky VTx can wreck havoc on the receiver and FC, and almost all build parts come from shady or half shady chinese manufacturers. It is a real problem.

[Anonymous No.1381045]

>>1381020
A real problem that I've never experienced nor even heard of anybody experiencing in over 2 years of flying all sorts of RC stuff, including plenty of janky cheap chinabrand stuff?

[Anonymous No.1381049]

>>1381045
I've seen two friends' 5 drones flip out from this.

[Anonymous No.1381075]

Are the any good web stores in Europe that sell quad and general rc stuff?
The few ones i know only stock stuff from ten years ago.

[Anonymous No.1381085]

>>1381075
Hobbyking.com EU and UK stock.
The other closest is GetFPV.com in the US, but they ship to the EU with reasonable prices.

[Anonymous No.1381098]

>>1381049
And you undeniably concluded that it was due to a ground loop that could be fixed by removing the ESC signal ground? Bullshit.

[Anonymous No.1381100]

>>1381075
HobbyKing have notoriously awful customer service, but are unfortunately the only place in the EU with a decent selection of larger lipos (eg anything above miniquad sizes). Otherwise there are plenty of decent stores. Here in the UK we have a bunch of good stores that will ship within the EU;

http://quadcopters.co.uk
https://unmannedtechshop.co.uk
https://hobbyrc.co.uk
https://flyingtech.co.uk
https://electricwingman.com

And I'm sure there are plenty on the mainland as well if you look properly. I know Flyduino are in Germany.

If you order from the US like >>1381085 mentions, you risk getting stung by customs. I've ordered from piroflip & they undervalued for me, but it's not a guarantee when ordering from US stores especially if they don't want to void their own shipping insurance.

If you're not impatient for anything then Banggood's cheapest non-free shipping options takes about 7 days to arrive to the UK from China & I've never paid any customs from them (50+ orders, some £300+).

[Anonymous No.1381218]

>>1378290
Does anybody know what would be the best way to be able to close this boat and to still be able to access the inside. I was thinking about some kind of epoxy joint where you would cover one of the 2 connected parts in vasceline so the epoxy won't stick so you would have a waterproof joint you could take apart but how exactly would I do that in this situation in a way where the pieces are always pushing together with force, I was thinking rubber bands but this might not be the best idea.

[Anonymous No.1381226]

>>1381218
Easiest solution would be an airtight plastic food tub (tupperware etc.) for the non-waterproof electronics, drill holes for the wires then seal them with hot glue, silicone, PlastiDip, etc.?

[Anonymous No.1381261]

>>1381226
No I am not just talking about the electronics I want to make the entire boat watertight.

[Anonymous No.1381288]

>>1381261
You started with the wrong material. Build it from plywood then glass it in multiple layers with laminating resin making extra careful about wrinkles and bubbles. Then you apply acrylic lacquer or boat sealant lacquer on the inside.
Orange boxes (3mm light plywood) from the groceries will do nicely.

[Anonymous No.1381500]

>>1381288
I am not going to rebuild the entire boat, this thing is a year long project and it is really nice because I can basically weld it with a soldering iron

[Anonymous No.1381515]

>>1381500
You don't weld with a soldering iron. If you would have a faint idea what you are doing you wouldn't say such stupid things.

[Anonymous No.1381520]

>>1381515
I don't mean it is the same as welding I am just saying you use the same building techniques as you would when welding a metal boat.

[Anonymous No.1381534]

>>1381520
No, you don't

[Anonymous No.1381553]

>>1371455
Lisam 210 / 10

If you dont have an osd yet, get one. It makes things a lot easier.
You definitely need a battery strap, im barely surviving crashes with 2 of them.
Enable turtle mode.
Install a buzzer.

[Anonymous No.1382726]

There is a massive rebate on the Armattan Chameleon with PDB on electricwingman. Should I cop or not?

[Anonymous No.1382958]

>>1382726
Out of stock m8

[Anonymous No.1382991]

>>1382958
Must’ve got the last one

[Anonymous No.1383337]

>>1382958
>>1382991
Definitely sure I got the last one, it is already in dispatch. Can’t wait though I only have a hobbyking setup, multistar elite 2204 2300KV 20A escs and an F3 board, and a set of 1400mah 3s batteries.
I hope it’ll be good enough for cruising and light acro, coming from a pig of a 4’’ quad that could barely get out of a dive.

[Anonymous No.1383362]

Is using cell towers to control a drone a thing?

Like, two pre paid phones. One in the drone, one in the controller. What would the latency be like?

Asking for a friend.

[Anonymous No.1383363]

Is Q X7 available anywhere within EU for a decent price?
Paying for it like for x9 is not an option and I've been waiting for a long time for hobbyking to get them back in stock in EU warehouse. All I can see is some Czech sites which offer them for 122eur with shipping but I'd like to pass cheaper.
Does anybody know how banggood sends them? Do they use belgium post with switched label so it looks like it's from EU?

[Anonymous No.1383364]

>>1383362
Cellular modems can be used to 'control' drones flying long distance automated flight paths, but that's more in the sense of 'fly to this location' or 'return to home', the latency wouldn't be good enough for manual control like you would normally get from the sticks on the controller.

[Anonymous No.1383429]

>>1383363
You can try the links here >>1381100
Frsky is the defacto drone racing controller, there is a new one with game controller form factor and with sliders! something the Q-X7 doesn’t have. After using a Tx with sliders I am reluctant to use something without sliders.
Hobbyking international store is good for EU orders, usually 1-2 weeks extra for the customs. If you don’t use lower priced invoice then the customs won’t do any extra to screw you in the ass.

[Anonymous No.1384237]

guys, I didn't read it through so I ordered 5x3.5 two bladed props, two sets, instead of 5x4.5 two blades.
Should I just dump them when they arrive or are these still useful for cruising?
I'm using 3s until my packs die, then I'll go for 4s.

[Sakura !!3iOG6mbYys6 No.1384292]

First time designing something from scratch for 3D printing, surprisingly wasn't a complete disaster. Not sure if it's a 'good' design (it's certainly rudimentary) but at least I got everything to line up. Going to drill another pair of holes in the white part for the front pair of absent bolts.

>>1384237
Certainly don't dump them, they'll fly just fine.

[Anon No.1384325]

>>1368754
Would you be willing to put a super strong antenna on your drone, I believe using copper wire coiled in about a trillion turns and tie it to a balloon with enough helium to reach the flat earth's dome (there are videos showing many gopros on balloons hitting the dome) then point it towards the moon since the sun would be to bright to see anything, and after you get high up enough turn on the drone and fly it to the moon and attempt to land or close enough to get some awesome close ups of the moon. I hope no one believes NASA ever went to the moon, if they did would you figure they would of went many times and taken many of pictures for research? But instead they have none, except the fake moon landing with zero stars in the sky not to mention when you speed up the footage they walk around as if they were on earth, because they are. All images taken now are all CGI. NASA tells us earth is a round ball in a wobble but anyone with common sense and and half of a brain knows if earth were a round ball on a wobble a time lapse of the stars would not form perfect circles above us. The stars would be going from left to right in a wobble pattern and not form perfect circles. It would also be impossible for everyone on the planet, even the South Pole the north star is visible. In fact the South Pole should never see the north star but they do, why? Because NASA knows everyone is to stupid to do their own research and will just believe what they are told.

[Anonymous No.1384583]

>>1384325
Low quality bait. Try >>>/sci/

[Anonymous No.1385328]

Tfw good weather in Scotland

[Anonymous No.1385462]

>>1385328
Looks like even the weather is opposing brexit. It’s trying to be more european

[Anonymous No.1385507]

>>1385462
In that case I am not sure what the weather in the netherlands is trying say.

[Anonymous No.1385961]

>>1384292
Why don't you 3d print a huge shell to cover your electronics?

[Anonymous No.1386001]

>>1385961
It would be too heavy, needing a big 3D printer and the aerodynamics would fuck up the flying performance. Google “Quanum Venture yaw problem”
I ditched the whole cover from mine and now it flies like it should.

[Anonymous No.1386124]

>>1385961
What benefit would that give? I don't fly in the rain.

[Anonymous No.1386201]

>>1386124
More aerodynamic. Protect electronics from impacts. I'm not an expert since I don't own a drone

[Anonymous No.1386335]

>>1386201
Aerodynamics on a big quad like that are 100% irrelevant. And likewise any 'impact' that might damage the electronics would total a quad like that. 3D printed pods make sense on some race quads, but not on big stuff like that.

[Anonymous No.1386365]

>>1386201
>More aerodynamic
You might think that, but it is not. It will only make it more prone to wind gusts blowing it all over the place.
It is much preferable if the wind can blow through the frame more freely.

[Anonymous No.1386903]

>>1382726
Welp, it arrived. Just in time for the summer exams, so it will sit on my bench taunting me for 6 weeks.
I already love this thing, the quality is incomparable to any other frames I got from Hobbyking. The only thing is, the PDB looks sketchy as fuck. The 5V and 12V regulators are simple inefficient heat dissipation ICs, even my Diatone Tyrant had proper switching UBECs integrated in its PDB. Should I go with it or should I try and get a proper PDB instead?
My FC has its own 5V regulator but it's not an AIO board and I would like to avoid any AIO solutions. I also use a Tramp HV, so the camera will get the 5V from there.
If I use the PDB then the regulators will be just sitting there sapping on my battery and slowly dissipating heat/burning up.
I don't like these dissipation regulators. That was a shitty move on Armattan's part.

[Anonymous No.1386915]

>>1386903
This is the PDB, those small ICs are the regulators.

[Anonymous No.1387759]

I'm looking for a FPV receiver that doesn't have a screen but outputs to an HDMI port, or something that can adapt to one. Any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.1387822]

>>1387759
Your receiver is receiving analog signals and HDMI is digital. Any device that can do this is going to be expensive or nigger-rigged.

[Anonymous No.1387917]

>>1387759
Receivers themselves don't have screens. If you're thinking of the monitors that have antennas sticking out of them, they're just screens with receivers wired into the back of them. You can buy plenty of standalone receivers (FR632), these output to AV, then get an AV to HDMI converter. Total cost $50.

[Anonymous No.1387972]

>>1370146
holy shit, you just changed my life.

[Anonymous No.1387987]

>>1379566
>>1379554
I have a bunch of lithium ion cells i have no use for... you suuure i cant try making a 3s2p battery with them? Or is it gonna fly 5mins, crash and cause a forest fire.

[Anonymous No.1387990]

>>1380581
I bet you would enjoy kerbal space program

[Anonymous No.1387994]

>>1387759
>>1387822
Well now you just HAVE to niggerrig something!

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1320243581.html?pid=808_0000_0109&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.1320243581

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32826053126.html?pid=808_0000_0109&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32826053126

[Anonymous No.1389687]

Is there anything cheap that can also fly a long time like 20 minutes?
I dont care about speed. I just wanna fly high and long.

[Anonymous No.1390021]

>>1387987
If you have decent 18650s your 3S2P pack would be rated about 10C which is nowhere near enough for something like a 5" quad.

>>1389687
A wing.

[Anonymous No.1390078]

Looking for my first quad, was thinking Id smash up a toy and 3D print it a new frame/upgrade parts when I want to go faster.

Whats a good beginners toy grade? If Im gonna swap the motors at some point Id prefer it be brushless, $150 or less, maybe more depending on what features are included.

[Anonymous No.1390328]

>>1390021
Which wing?

[Anonymous No.1390519]

>>1390328
A wing. A flying wing.

[Anonymous No.1390526]

>>1386001
I mean desu just do one layer with a small nozzle and it shouldn't be heavy at all.

[Anonymous No.1390528]

>>1390519
>>1390021
Smh desu. A flying wing isn't the most efficient form since ya gotta sweep it. Glider is a lot better with its straight wings.

[Anonymous No.1390540]

>>1390528
The efficiency of a glider is not the straightness of the wing, it is the cross-ratio of the wing.
But anon asked for the cheapest long flying frame and a flying wing has no tail, no fuselage so it is aerodynamically efficient and cheap to build.
You can use the glider's wing characteristics to improve the efficiency of the wing by designing the flying wing with bigger wingspan with narrower chords, basically distributing the wing surface of a stubby wing into a leaner form makes it more efficient.

[Anonymous No.1390544]

>>1390526
You still effectively put a rudder on the quadcopter, it will always yaw out into the wind and you will constantly have to fight it for control.
Aerodynamic shape on an H-copter is not feasible for aerial video.

[Anonymous No.1390639]

>>1390519
Yeah but which model? Is there a wing under 200$ that can fly 20-30 minutes?

[Anonymous No.1390656]

>>1390639
Look up Flite Test, they have a bunch of designs you can build from foam board.

[Anonymous No.1390758]

>>1390656
Right now, I'm building a blunt-nose versa wing from flite test. It looks like it'll be pretty user-friendly and customisable. The body costs like $5 before electronics.

[Anonymous No.1392062]

Any 3d printed frame /rcg/ would recommend?

How about one made from carbon fiber tubes and printed parts?

Ideally I'd need it to be able to carry a Sony a6000 and gymbal for topographical surveying but I'd like a learner drone before the heavy lift one

[Anonymous No.1392098]

>>1392062
Honestly just design one for yourself, Fusion 360 is free and Tinkercad is extremely easy to use. if i were in the need for a quad frame i would most definitely design it by myself.

[Anonymous No.1392417]

Im pissed off about drones not having a total of 6 propellers per engine or at least 4 for fast lift and being able to lift heavier objects.

The jews won this time.

[Anonymous No.1392684]

>>1392417
Dude just make the motors spin faster, they're electric afterall.

[Anonymous No.1394092]

Tfw finally get to fly some new locations.

[Anonymous No.1394399]

I work in a warehouse that stores car parts. I would love for a drone to fly around and seek out a number part on a box for me. Theres so much bullshit crammed in a 2 foot hole

[Anonymous No.1394482]

>>1394092
Where this at?

[Anonymous No.1394485]

>>1394399
Get your self a tiny whoop clone
Eachine E013 Micro FPV RC Drone Quadcopter With 5.8G 1000TVL 40CH Camera VR006 VR-006 3 Inch Goggles
https://banggood.app.link/izupKTEofN

[Anonymous No.1394688]

>>1394482
It's in the filename, Scottish Highlands.

[Anonymous No.1395754]

>>1392417
4 blades and so on are very inefficient, you will get half of the battery life on a 6 blade than on a 3 blade while your "grip" only marginally increases. Your top speed also drops considerably. It is widely known to have the top speed you need 2 blades or single blade propulsion.
A 3 blade prop on a faster and stronger motor on higher cell count battery is the better way to improve the performance without losing too much flight time and speed.

[Anonymous No.1395943]

>>1395754
>single blade propulsion

Wat...?

[Anonymous No.1396016]

>>1395943
Counter balanced single blade propeller. High speed control line modelers used these in the high performance models. Super hard to do it right, if it isn't manufactured specifically it won't work.

[Anonymous No.1396017]

>>1396016
Well damn, that's pretty cool.

[Anonymous No.1396030]

>>1396017
>>1396016
How is this a thing? The prop is balanced sure, but as RPM increases so too does the thrust, which is only coming from one side, in effect, applying a bending force to the shaft. How does this not rape the bearings and shaft?

[Anonymous No.1396050]

>>1396030
It won't spin into the propwash of the other blade so it is more efficient.

[Anonymous No.1396055]

>>1396030
I'm just guessing but maybe something like an axial offset like in pic related? Both the lift and centrifugal forces are proportional to the rotational speed squared, so it should balance out at different turning speeds.

[Anonymous No.1396059]

>>1396030
On that example, it's a Continental A-40.
It's not working hard, and has larger bearings than it really needs for 40 odd horsepower.

It's not seeing much stress.

[Anonymous No.1396071]

>>1368754
Bump for lawnmowers. Really trying to get the cost down and diy robot mowers.

If i can mow cheaper than anyone in town and not even be there i could quit my job and just drive a truck around loading and unloading bots

[Anonymous No.1396076]

>>1370551
Like asbestos and fiberglass. Hand sanding a few drones is nothing. Just dont be Yacht building without your ppe.

[Anonymous No.1396086]

>>1396071
GPS accuracy can't get lower than 1m without a correctional service and internet connection, so a drive plan for a garden would be impossible or shoddy at best.
Also if you want an easy job with lots of money just finish college, some sort of engineering degree will get you loads of good offers.

[Anonymous No.1396101]

>>1396076
Asbestos is different tho, its shape makes it very hard for the body to expel from the lungs while it is atleast possible if slow for the others.

[Anonymous No.1396109]

>>1396101
Carbon fibers while known for their tensile strength they are just simple carbon chains in no particular order so it is easy for the body to break it down.
The more orderly carbon structures like nanotubes, multi walled nano tubes, graphene and fullerenes have so strong bonding through their orderly structures they are not easy for the body to break down and in some cases to expel them so they are more dangerous. Sanding down woven carbon fiber plates don't produce these structures, only normal carbon fiber particles. Still the dust can irritate the respiratory tracts so it is better to wet the sanding material.

[Anonymous No.1396210]

Who knew the local closed down mental asylum would have such nice gardens?

[Anonymous No.1396225]

>>1392098
Why would I model one if someone did it before?

I think I'll print the Peon230 just for shit n jiggles since it's just leftover filament, then I'll upgrade to a carbon fiber frame

[Anonymous No.1396410]

>>1396210
How do you get such good hang time? When I take down the throttle mine just drops like a stone.

[Anonymous No.1396453]

>>1396410
Dunno, but probably to do with momentum. If you're carrying more lateral/vertical speed before you cut the throttle/go inverted then you're going to get more time before you start falling so quick.

[Anonymous No.1396466]

Has anybody here a multiplex flyer?
Are they really as good as people say?

[Anonymous No.1396475]

>>1396466
They are great, have the Easy Star, TwinStar, a FunJet classic and a Tucan (kit still in the box), had many chinese copies and different chinese EPO models. Had an Easy Glider that someone during one of my weak moments bought off me, still regretting selling it.
The real difference comes out after you get them out for their second season, the chinese EPO and the chinese copies warp and deform a lot after a season. I noticed the models need different trim after just sitting under the sun for an hour or so, while the Multiplex foam stays how it was when you picked it out of the box.
The local club has a couple Easy Stars for training, both over a decade old, only upgraded to brushless a couple years ago. They still fly great after many crashes. My Bixler and Bix 2 flew awful at the end of the season and fell apart mid air (the foam piece that holds the spar and servo wires in place separated)
So yeah, since then I threw out or gave away all my shitty chinese foamies and got the Multiplex kits, flying happy ever since.

[Anonymous No.1396493]

>>1396475
>>1396466
One more thing, when you build from a kit (advised) the Multiplex design is very nice to work with, everything has nice big tabs and will go together straight and without any need to carve and reseat, like finding the right EWD (elevator to wing deflection, or the angle between the elevator and wing chord).
Most of the time there is no slack, and when there is some the elapor filler is easy to work with and sand down after use.
Superglue works very well with it, hot glue is not advised and epoxy is only needed when superglue sets too quickly.

[Anonymous No.1396650]

>>1396475
>>1396493
Do their receivers work with third party stuff? I want to get a Taranis Q X7.

[Anonymous No.1396661]

>>1396650
Multiplex has it's own system. Use an FrSky receiver instead.
Also don't buy the RTF, either ARF or Kit so you can build it however you want it. With Hobbyking you can make the kit for half the price of an ARF.

[Anonymous No.1397445]

>>1396055
nigga wtf

[Anonymous No.1397624]

I have a Propel Tilt drone. One of the motor shafts is bent, and a screw sheared off in the other one (see pic). Propel sells replacement motors, but they're never in stock.

What are the chances that I can ID the motor and get a generic replacement?

[Anonymous No.1397710]

>>1396016
>mfw driving by abandoned 1 blade wind farm full of vroken turbines wobbling and sgit

[Anonymous No.1398133]

>>1397624
Looks like it's just a generic brushed motor, so if you can find something the same size & with vaguely similar kv it will probably work fine.

[Anonymous No.1398827]

I have been building a relay system for my drone plane where my quad copter acts as relay for my plane. For now it only works for telemetry two-way link.

Basically i launch my plane for long range mapping mission and it goes beyond my ground radio link for telemetry and ground control.

I used a quad copter to pop up over the trees to 600 meters to relay the telemetry data.

Worked great for 800m link i tried.

Telemetry and remote control data for planes APM is being relayed by dual Rfd900+ radios by quad. I want to work actual flight stick and video signal relay to work as well.

[Anonymous No.1398853]

Slow progress on the big boi, finalised VTX mount & a good enough 868MHz rx mount.

[Anonymous No.1398930]

I was at a closing TRU and saw that they had a few of the DIY sky viper sets for 25us and was wondering if this would be a good kit to getvstarted. The price is pretty hard to beat for a starter set i thought but wanted anothers opinion on it

[Anonymous No.1399158]

Newfriend here, I got the Eachine E010 to see what drones are about and im flying it around but im struggling to keep it hovering in one place it always kind of leans to a direction, I tried using the trims and that didnt change much.
I have no idea what im doing so I appreciate any help.

[Anonymous No.1399169]

>>1399158
Have you tried the calibration procedure yet?

[Anonymous No.1399170]

>>1399158
Have you tried the calibration procedure yet?

[Anonymous No.1399202]

>>1399170
I just tried it and im having the same issue, after ascending a few cm off the ground it starts going in a direction, while I want it to just stand in the same place and just hover.

[Anonymous No.1399273]

>>1399202
How much does it move in a direction? It's always going to drift a bit & will never be able to hover in one spot, because it doesn't have any sort of position sensors.

[Anonymous No.1399290]

>>1399273
id say its a slow start in a direction but after a few seconds of moving that way, since its tilted a bit it picks up the speed.
I guess perfect staying ability is only possible for machines with position sensors? I naively thought the gyroscope inside does that.

[Anonymous No.1399477]

Soo, 10cm chord and 2m wingspan alright for a 400g plane?

[Anonymous No.1399500]

>>1399477
You're going to run into structural problems.

[Anonymous No.1399506]

>>1397624
>>1398133
Okay. Apparently the problem shafts aren't part of the electric motor. Does anybody know where I can get a couple of shafts like these? The holes are screw holes.

[Anonymous No.1399886]

>>1399506
That part is almost certainly bespoke for your quad, it doesn't look like a generic piece that you'll be able to find elsewhere. Any way you can modify how the props mount (maybe using completely different props) to avoid that part entirely, if those are the problem?

[Anonymous No.1399890]

>>1399500
nah, i'm a master engineer.

[Anonymous No.1399904]

>>1399890
so am i

[Anonymous No.1400119]

>>1398853
That is one old ass camera. Does it even support color? You should try the new Runcam Sparrow 2 Pro or an Eagle 2 Pro instead.

[Anonymous No.1400319]

>>1400119
It's an old model, but it's the same Sony Super HAD II sensor & Nextchip 2040 DSP as all of the current generation of CCD cameras still use (eg Swift 2, Micro Swift 3, Arrow v3, Micro Arrow Pro, etc.).

[Anonymous No.1400405]

>>1378506
>Get an FrSky Q-X7 transmitter
Oh boy, not who you replied to but...
>come to /diy/ for first time in ages
>oh look, a drone thread, I am building a drone!
>started it 3 years, never got a transmitter/receiver
>looking for ideas for dates so decide nows the time to finish the drone, who wouldnt wanna fly a drone?
>start shopping for transmitters, decide on FrSky Q-X7 as it seems to be the cheapest that can run an open-source firmware
>Oh boy, it even *includes* the open-source firmware
>pretty happy with my decision
>anon on /diy recommends the exact transmitter

oh boy. literally the only thing my project is missing now is a battery... well I want a camera too, but that can happen after I start flying

[Anonymous No.1400407]

>>1396030
have you seen how a cyclic in a helicopter works (sry if I am confusing terms). although it doesnt *only* provide thrust to one side, it does produce a hell of a lot more of it. they seem to do fine, and prop/motor failure would seem to be more of a critical failure in a helicopter than an airplane

[Anonymous No.1400409]

Can anyone familiar with rc aircraft laws in the US explain the experience and rules to me? My understanding, though it may be outdated, is you can fly whatever you want as long as its under 250 grams.

If a cop saw me flying a drone, and he thought it might be too heavy, would he pull out a scale and weight it? what if it was a little overweight, like 270 grams?

What is the process like if you want to start flying something heavier? is there a lot of paperwork? are there long wait periods?

[Anonymous No.1400413]

>>1399500
>>1399890
>>1399904
I think it could be done with carbon fiber. I manufactured carbon fiber aircraft for several years for a living. Is it a pain in the ass? sure. can someone make their own custom carbon fiber parts at home? yes!

And by the way, composite aerospace companies tend to have lots and lots of scrap carbon fiber (pre-preg) left over after cutting, which they just throw out. Its often still good, just too small to use for full size aircraft parts, but perfect for smaller stuff. I dunno how easy it would be for some random member of the public to convince them to give it to you, but I think its worth a shot

BTW, a 4ft wide by 200ft long of flight certified pre-preg carbon fiber can cost between $5,000 and $10,000. Some of the parts I made would use 2 rolls, so they cost over $10,000 in carbon alone, not counting all the other labor and materials needed. of course we sold the parts for several hundred thousand dollars, I think some were even about a million dollars.

[Anonymous No.1400776]

>>1400405
Oh boy

boomer.jpg

[Anonymous No.1400902]

eBay store djiofficialstore (Authorized Retailer Drone Nerds Inc) is selling a DJI Spark Mini Drone Fly More Combo (Refurbed) for $389.
Can I DIY my own drone that has the exact same capabilities as this for less money?

[Anonymous No.1400914]

>>1400902
No, not even close. There's some good discussion earlier in this thread about trying to DIY a DJI style drone, the tl;dr is that you simply can't get close to that level of performance/integration with any DIY solution even if you spend substantially *more* than the DJI you're trying to copy. For $389 you would struggle to even buy _just_ a HD video downlink for your DIY approach, let alone all the rest of the hardware you need & even then the software available to you to run on it would be trash compared to the DJI app.

[Anonymous No.1400933]

>>1400914
Are DJI drones still powered by some shitty phone app that you are forced to use instead of a controller?

[Anonymous No.1400956]

>>1400933
Afaik DJI have never made a drone that forces you to use a phone instead of a controller. The Spark _can_ be used without a controller, but most people use it with a controller.

[Anonymous No.1401369]

>>1399886
Okay, I need a prop that comes with a 2.5cm diameter gear.
Do you think something like this would work?
https://www.amazon.com/Parrot-Honbay-Upgraded-Material-Replacement/dp/B01COJ6I50/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1528333915&sr=8-7

[Anonymous No.1401374]

>>1400409
Laws might change soon, but you can fly up to 55lbs by registering online for $5. Local cops won't care unless you are being an ass.

[Anonymous No.1401391]

>>1401374
If I have a drone that I have already registered, and I get another one later on, do I have to register that one too?

[Anonymous No.1401396]

>>1401391
No, you register as a pilot.

[Anonymous No.1401460]

https://www.cnet.com/news/heres-the-tiny-drone-the-us-army-just-purchased-for-soldiers/?ftag=COS-05-10aaa0h

cheap civilian version when

https://www.flir.com/products/black-hornet-prs/

[Anonymous No.1401470]

>>1401460
sweet, now do they make a version with longer range?

gotta spot those mortars somehow, mortar crews would love the live feedback

[Anonymous No.1401511]

>>1401460
>https://www.flir.com/products/black-hornet-prs/
so that thing has collective and cyclic?

[Anonymous No.1401615]

>>1401369
That looks a lot like how the Syma X5C works - have you checked whether your quad is actually a rebranded Syma or if the Syma spares might nonetheless be compatible? The Syma is dirt cheap & spares are widely available.

[Anonymous No.1401758]

Picture dump of propel tilt
Prop gear. Looks close to the syma replacements online

[Anonymous No.1401760]

>>1401758

[Anonymous No.1401761]

>>1401760

[Anonymous No.1401763]

>>1401761

[Anonymous No.1401767]

>>1401763

[Anonymous No.1401774]

>>1401615
Some of the parts look close to a Syma, but not quite. Considering I can't get the parts I need anyway, it couldn't hurt to try something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Quadcopter-Drone-Spare-Parts-Motor-Gear-Main-Gears-Set-For-Syma-X5-X5C-X5SC/332625663401?hash=item4d7208d5a9:g:BO0AAOSwBMRa2Hh3

[Anonymous No.1401786]

With all the trouble needed to get replacement parts, I'm considering saying "fuck it" and buying a $30 syma

[Anonymous No.1401874]

>>1401786
My cheap syma might be gutted for a brushless build with fresh board stack, tx and vtx. It barley flys but looks good, like a tiny phantom. The silly ip camera has already been hotglued to my kids robosapian. The evolution/migration of parts is a thing a natural beauty.

[Anonymous No.1402037]

how the fuck do i mount a 15mm board into a 30.5mm frame

[Anonymous No.1402319]

>>1401786
>>1401874
My Syma flies incredibly well, even stuck a 5.8GHz camera on it.

[Anonymous No.1402374]

>>1402319
How do you view the video feed on that? An app of some kind?

[Anonymous No.1402406]

>>1402374
It's a 5.8GHz analogue transmission, so any 5.8GHz FPV receiver/LCD/goggles. You can buy USB receivers that plug into a phone, but they have too much latency.

[Anonymous No.1402414]

>>1402406
Cool.
I assume that it's more for racing than photography?

[Anonymous No.1402429]

>>1402414
Yes, it's very low quality & is only good for flying with, not for recording & showing to anybody.

[Anonymous No.1402431]

>>1402429
Looks pretty fuckin' rad if you wanted to go for the 80's/90's analog aesthetic.

[Anonymous No.1402452]

>>1402319
Nice. Was tempted to start like that but mine took a good hit and the main shaft for a prop is wonky. Do I buy replacement parts? All ready swapped motors and props with kits I ordered with the quad. Now a bent shaft with a chewed gear makes me look at the pile of frameless parts for a 3" brushless build I already have. I got everything I need but gumption/time to make a knock off mini phantom-whoop.

[Anonymous No.1402476]

>>1402431
Yeah, I have had people ask me 'what filter did you use for that video?' before :3

>>1402452
IMO something like the Syma is something that is a great way to start, but which you should grow out of fairly quickly if you find you like the hobby & want to go further. You only have to buy the equivalent of 3 or so Symas/spare parts before you could've afforded a proper hobby-grade carbon fibre brushless quad. Obviously buying a proper radio (Taranis, etc.) to fly proper hobby grade quads with is a nasty one off sting, but it genuinely is a one off.

[Anonymous No.1402529]

>>1402476
>Yeah, I have had people ask me 'what filter did you use for that video?' before :3

and it's a great flight, and I understand the economics of nice video, but damn I wish they'd make it so that nobody ever posted a seizure inducing pile of shit like that again. it's 2018 people.

here's the kind of video that gets posted in this general and actually gets re-posted in lots of other places simply because it is cool like yours but is excellent quality.

and before anyone bitches, re-read the part where I understand the cost of quality.

[Anonymous No.1402532]

>>1402529

in that vid, can a drone person tell me whether the snap-roll is a camera thing or a drone thing? is the camera going into gimbal lock and reversing, or is the operator flipping the drone over, or what?
here's another gorgeous one I saved: >>1385328

[Anonymous No.1402535]

>>1402532
>is the camera going into gimbal lock and reversing,

damn I should stop posting when I'm half-drunk.

[Anonymous No.1402554]

>>1402529
>here's the kind of video that gets posted in this general and actually gets re-posted in lots of other places

Lel, that's actually mine (>>1368754 >>1402476 >>1402429 etc.). I was very surprised to see it in a thread on /g/ :3

>>1402532
>>1402535
There is no gimbal on that quad, the HD camera is rigidly attached to the frame so every movement you see is the movement of the quad itself. Picrelated is the setup I was flying on that trip.

[Anonymous No.1402556]

>>1400319
CCD is shit, have a Swift micro, and Eagle 1 and a Sparrow 2 Pro. The new CMOS chips take a massive shit on the old CCD, the Sparrow with it's improved image processing algorithm is even better.
You might want to check out an Eagle or a Sparrow 2

[Anonymous No.1402558]

>>1402556
>The new CMOS chips take a massive shit on the old CCD

Not enough of a difference to replace the CCD camera on a big rig like that. It's not like I'm going to be flying it through tiny shadowy tree gaps & through buildings that instantly swap between bright & dark.

[Anonymous No.1402563]

>>1402558
I use it for cruising as well on an Easy Star, the Eagle is massively more bright and vivid, it is much better to look at.
I say you try it out, these cameras are cheap and bring a massive improvement on your fun.

[Anonymous No.1402564]

>>1402563
I may well grab one for a future new build, but I'm certainly not going to start replacing all my existing CCD cameras (think I have a dozen in models atm) with them, which is sort of what your tone sounds like I should be doing!

[Anonymous No.1402568]

>>1402564
Chill out dude, suggesting to try it out is not the same as telling to replace all your stuff.

[Anonymous No.1402585]

>>1401874
>>1402319
I would like to see if I can replace >>1401758 using Syma parts (>>1401774). How big across (circumference) is the prop gear for the X5C and other models?
Mine is ~ 2.5cm

[Anonymous No.1402684]

>>1402529
60fps?

[Anonymous No.1402828]

>>1402684
Yup.

[Anonymous No.1403062]

>>1402828

nice. saved.

the abandoned buildings... awesome.

[Anonymous No.1403068]

>>1403062
>abandoned

they're like centuries old, nerd.

americans. you gotta love em.

[Anonymous No.1403077]

How fast you guys think I can get a 250~280 quad using 2212 920kv motors? Have a crashed phantom that I think I can cram onto one of my smaller frames. Would there be any significant trouble running 5-6" props on just weak motors?

[Anonymous No.1403101]

>>1403077
I suppose I could also try 7" props on a 280mm or 8" on a 300mm..

[Anonymous No.1403128]

>>1403068
Centuries old... And abandoned.

Third Worlders with a superiority complex, gotta love em.

[Anonymous No.1403152]

>>1403062
>>1403068
>>1403128
They're probably 19th century, I forget what the person we were there working for said but I expect they were abandoned during the highland clearances. Flew around some more modern abandoned buildings today though :3

>>1403077
For a motor like that you'd want 8-10". If you put a 5" prop on it you'd probably be approaching full throttle just to take off.

[Anonymous No.1403222]

>>1403152

[Anonymous No.1403386]

>>1403152
Yea I started to wonder about that after I posted.

Thinking Ill try 8" on a 300mm frame Ive got laying around, if I can get the electronics out of the way that is. If that doesnt work Ill just throw everything in an F330 or F400 frame since Ive seen that done before.

[Anonymous No.1404518]

No video.
Place your bets!
Is it:
1. The TS832 video transmitter.
2. The VR006 fpv goggles
3. My own retardation

This is my first time pls help. I put them on the same frequency and i get nothing. I know "something" is being picked up by the goggles because the static changes when i change frequency on the transmitter.

[Anonymous No.1404771]

>>1404518
3

[Anonymous No.1404774]

>>1404518
1. check all wires and plugs, maybe camera is not conected to transmitter
2. did the transmitter ever run without antenna, even just for under one second?
If yes, it is fucked beyond repair.
3.channel number doesn´t always match with channel number, there usually is a chart supplied with the frequencies of each channel.
(if lazy switch trough all frequencies on transmitter or reciver)
4. is the input voltage of the transmitter within spec?
They often stop working with somewhat empty 2-cell LiPos.