/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.1349026]

>he uses a centre punch for all the holes he drills.
What are some other cuck tier tools?

[Anonymous No.1349028]

Any kind of power tool, honestly

[Anonymous No.1349034]

soldering irons

[Anonymous No.1349039]

>>1349026
>it's manly to have low tolerances in your work

Baffling

[Anonymous No.1349041]

>>1349026
>cuck
faggot

[Anonymous No.1349049]

>>1349039
>>it's manly to have low tolerances in your work
yes, low tolerances are good

[Anonymous No.1349054]

i drill pilot holes, but a center punch seems like an ok idea too

whats wrong with em?

[Anonymous No.1349056]

>>1349026
Low temp hot glue gun is great for arts and crafts and sucking dick.

[Anonymous No.1349062]

>>1349056
i imagine that would singe my penis. not great at all. tho maybe youre into that sort of thing.

[Anonymous No.1349069]

>>1349026
>not using your dick as center punch

[Anonymous No.1349097]

>>1349026
>not wanting any sort of accuracy
yeah, retarded.

[Anonymous No.1349112]

>>1349026
Only true queers use center punches. Line up drill where hole is needed, tap back of drill few times with 4lb hammer, drill away like a real man.

[Anonymous No.1349113]

>>1349039
>>1349097
>needs training wheels to drill straight
Do you retards not look where your drilling? Also have fun centre punching 230 holes in a back pan for DIN rail mounting.

[Anonymous No.1349118]

>>1349113
>>needs training wheels to drill straight

Its physics and the inherent shape of a twist drill
But a lowly electrician wouldnt know shit about cutting accuracy or real metalworking.

[Anonymous No.1349120]

>>1349028
*tips fedora*

[Anonymous No.1349123]

>>1349118
Do you not know how to walk a drill bit you colossal fucking mongoloid?

[Anonymous No.1349129]

>>1349118
Also I feel my certificate as a mill right is a little better than your 10-20 hours in daddies cuckshed.

[Anonymous No.1349130]

Sure is a lot of cancer in here. Bet you’re the same faggots that let the bit wander all over the place then wonder why your holes don’t line up

[Anonymous No.1349133]

>>1349130
Same retards that hold a drill like a pistol

[Anonymous No.1349138]

>>1349123
>do you not know how to scrap a part in short order?

>>1349129
If you are literally arguing this point, your certificate is about as worthwhile as a liberal arts degree.
A piece of paper doesnt mean you have common sense

[Anonymous No.1349140]

>>1349138
Been working with sheet metal for 3 years now I think i know how to drill a hole

[Anonymous No.1349141]

>>1349123
yeah you use a punch

[Anonymous No.1349146]

>>1349141
Option A:
Line up punch
Hit punch with hammer
Place drill in punch hole
Drill hole
Option B:
Line up drill
Adjust slightly while drilling hole

Boy i wonder which option ill pick if i have to drill 100+ holes.

[Anonymous No.1349147]

>>1349118
>he doesn't know about self centering twist drills

[Anonymous No.1349150]

>>1349133
How the fuck are you supposed to hold it then?

[Anonymous No.1349152]

>>1349150

[Anonymous No.1349153]

>>1349150
>>1349152
Depends on if you have grip on back or not.

[Anonymous No.1349154]

>>1349152
Okay and what about a real drill?

[Anonymous No.1349157]

>>1349154
Doesn't matter the size, you can always hold it like that.

[Anonymous No.1349170]

>>1349133
but it has a pistol grip and a trigger. where else do you put your hand

>>1349140
>sheet metal
sheet metal aint shit, punches are for more robust stuff

[Anonymous No.1349173]

[Anonymous No.1349178]

>>1349152
That is a tiny fucking drill. The average power drill you just find in normal suburban homes that only gets used to more lazily assemble Ikea furniture is bigger than that.

>>1349153
Why not one on the pistol grip so you have actual control, and your off-hand on the back of it, like a normal person?

[Anonymous No.1349183]

>>1349178
>Why not one on the pistol grip so you have actual control,

Because you get more control with one hand using it in the proper grip

[Anonymous No.1349186]

>>1349183
>you have more control with one hand with no grip than with two hands, one of which has a firm grip to resist torque and the other is using the fleshy "heel" of the palm to provide pressure

[Anonymous No.1349187]

>>1349178
if you need to do a really straight hole, you press only at the back
if you ream it after, same applies
if you push on the grip, you force the drill out of center
does this matter for diy? no never ever

[Anonymous No.1349189]

>>1349187
>if you push on the grip,
who said to do that you californian piece of garbage/

[Anonymous No.1349190]

>>1349189
because drilling in hard steal requires both hands for pressure
ok, didnt mention that

[Anonymous No.1349191]

>>1349190
>because drilling in hard steal requires both hands for pressure
so you push the pistol grip with the webbing and push more towards the top of the drill with your off hand to even out the forces, because you are a man with hands and arms, and not some kind of bird trying to manipulate the world with the farce of a maw god has given you for teeth

[Anonymous No.1349193]

>>1349186
Correct, its physics

[Anonymous No.1349195]

>>1349191
Turning your drill handle into a lever makes you lose all control
"evening out the forces" doesnt work out all that well. But hey, you are a MAN, work harder for no good reason right?

[Anonymous No.1349199]

>>1349195
>into a lever
i don't think you understand what a lever is

>work harder for no good reason right?
using two hands is easier than one hand if the goal is to exert some specified amount of force

>lose all control
hence the punch, to avoid the drill walking

[Anonymous No.1349202]

>>1349199
>he doesn't know you can still fuck a hole after the first cm
listen, i don't think were talking about the same precision

[Anonymous No.1349203]

>>1349202
>listen, i don't think were talking about the same precision
what are pilot holes and reaming you dumb fuck

[Anonymous No.1349204]

>>1349199
>i don't think you understand what a lever is

Of course not, the drill bit is definitely not the fulcrum, and the handle is definitely not a lever

[Anonymous No.1349205]

>>1349204
do you understand resultant forces

[Anonymous No.1349207]

>>1349205
How ironic
>literally posting the technical term for why his whole argument is wrong

kek

[Anonymous No.1349208]

>>1349207
unbelievable. it's like trying to explain muzzle flip to an american. you will never understand

[Anonymous No.1349241]

>>1349129
So... On your certificate does it actually say "...mill RIGHT?" If so, then you may want to tell Mr's Sears and Roebuck that they spelled "wright" incorrectly. Or you could just say wright wrong, heh heh. Oh, and stop lying on the internet, kid!

[Anonymous No.1349259]

>>1349146
How many times do you want to drill those 100+ holes?

[Anonymous No.1349274]

>>1349241
Millwright* congrats on throwing an autistic fit over my phones autocorrect.

[Anonymous No.1349277]

>>1349026
Any kind of nail puller.

[Anonymous No.1349324]

>>1349259
Once? Its a custom painted back panel so you can't cover up fuckups.

[Anonymous No.1349327]

>>1349324
>can't cover up fuckups
Sounds like incentive to do it right the first time.

[Anonymous No.1349329]

>>1349327
Hence the reason I do.... I think your missing the point here

[Anonymous No.1349335]

>>1349329
K

[Anonymous No.1349358]

>>1349026
Hammers. If you can't pound the nail in with your bare hand, why are you even pretending you can build shit?

[Anonymous No.1349369]

>>1349358
>pound the nail in with your bare hand
I usually just throw them in like darts. You sound like the kind of guy who uses levels and string lines instead of the vastly superior human eyeball.

[Anonymous No.1349370]

>>1349369
I just give my nails an angry glance and they embed themselves in the wood to avoid it

[Anonymous No.1349391]

>>1349187
>covers air vents in drill Ryobi over heats

[Anonymous No.1349441]

>>1349358
theres an episode of smallville where clark is doing some fence repairs and just pushes the nail in with his finger, your comment reminded me of that

[Anonymous No.1349486]

>>1349026
>centre
OP needs an ID to buy tea spoons

[Anonymous No.1349500]

Depends on the material. Pilot holes improve accuracy with some hardwood grains. Like when I am drilling a 3/8" hole in a piece of oak. The grain always pulls the bit one way or the other before I have it far enough into the wood to stop the pull. Use a small pilot because it will not move around as much as a larger but, then you can go back and have zero pull. A punch is completely useless though because it is not going to guide the bit beyond the depth of the punch, so yes KYS.

[Anonymous No.1349531]

>>1349026
Chainsaw

[Anonymous No.1349649]

>>1349500
the punch is to avoid walking when starting the hole, not to ensure straightness of the hole

[Anonymous No.1349715]

>>1349026
Gloves

[Anonymous No.1349721]

>>1349113
You're just a drill monkey, accuracy doesn't matter. In my game....it does.

[Anonymous No.1349722]

>>1349112
So, like, center punch it, just not with the right tool for the job.

[Anonymous No.1349723]

>>1349133
>literally known as 'pistol' drills

[Anonymous No.1349724]

>>1349140
>sheet metal for 3 years
Oh wow, please share your vast knowledge with us, oh wise one.

[Anonymous No.1349726]

>>1349500
>implying we're all talking about the babby material that is wood.

[Anonymous No.1349733]

>>1349721
In my game it matters too bud... I'm pretty sure any job that requires drilling also requires accuracy.

[Anonymous No.1349735]

>>1349724
There's no knowledge really, I'm just used to drilling accurately.

[Anonymous No.1349741]

>>1349146
Or if its in sheet metal and I only need hole size to be accurate to +/- a few hundredths, I pick Option C: A Roper-Whitney #5 (or even better, a #7)

[Anonymous No.1349920]

Honestly, all tools. I just use my fucking fingernails for everything. Fuck you.

[Anonymous No.1349933]

>>1349026
Tools are what seperates us from animals.

Also,
>not using a water jet cutter to cut every single hole you need
Absolutely plebeian.

[Anonymous No.1349934]

>>1349112
You sound like the kind of guy who wonders why his drills wear out (because he's doing inappropriate stuff with them) and goes out to buy new ones. I bet you couldn't even sharpen a center, nevermind a drill bit.

[Anonymous No.1349938]

>>1349026
>What are some other cuck tier tools?
PPE.

[Anonymous No.1350028]

>>1349049
As opposed to high tolerances? Why not be precise?
What is your reasoning?

[Anonymous No.1350063]

>>1349026
>Let's cut corners on the most important measurement on any part.
>>1349140
>sheet metal
No shit a center punch won't show noticeable difference, try 3/8 or 2 inch aluminum and watch how far the drill stays. The point is not just to keep the drill from walking, it's also to help the drill head imprint its contour in the metal and that is what ensures that it stays straight all the way through.
The best way to drill through sheet metal is to not drill it at all and actually punch it with a press because it hardens the edges of the hole.
>>1349129
>I'm not smart enough to say I'm smart, I need a paper that says so.
Your job is automation with human error mixed in. In fact I'm amazed how stupid your employer is for not having a water cutter like this anon said>>1349933 instead of paying a degree milled idiot to wear out his drills faster. What are you, union?
>>1349152
Ahahahaha.

[Anonymous No.1350075]

>>1349733
Differing levels of accuracy and uniformity, apparently.

[Anonymous No.1350097]

>>1349026
>not using a punch for holes in wood
Have fun with the bit wandering 2mm into the nearest dip in the grain and having your dowel joint so fucking off that you have to mill the hole out by pushing your drill sideways.

[Anonymous No.1350128]

>disconnecting power before setting up anything electrical
>pre drilling so wood parts don't crack (pro-tip: wood is for sissies)
>not relying on our bodies natural safety squints when grinding anything
>using anything more than UV400 rated glasses when welding
>welding with gas because you are afraid of sputter
>deburring anything
>wearing gloves, ever
>needs heating in shop (pro-tip: work harder)
>insisting on lead-free solder and a fume extractor
>not realizing the true potential of a simple hammer
>using fancy units of measurements smaller than two decimal places
>pliers: I mean, how weak are your fingers?
>being afraid of brake- and hydraulic fluid

On the top of my head. I'll see tomorrow what my fellow cuck coworkers do to improve their work and minimize risk.

[Anonymous No.1350135]

>>1350128
jb weld and natty light the post

[Anonymous No.1350195]

>>1350128
AvE, is that you?

[Anonymous No.1350644]

>>1350195
No. But I do enjoy his content. Obviously my post was satire. OP is a faggot as usual.

[Anonymous No.1350713]

>>1349026
hold on while i post THE BEST TOOL

[Anonymous No.1350824]

>>1350713
I mean it's good, but the best? Having a punch alone is like having a bag of nails without a hammer. I mean, you litterly need another tool just to use this tool. What the fuck man.

[Anonymous No.1350843]

>>1350824
>I mean, you litterly need another tool just to use this tool. What the fuck man.
The punch in that image is a Starrett 18C automatic center punch. No hammer is necessary, just push into the work piece, and it will put a precise, consistent divot, adjustable in strength for various materials and purposes. That punch in particular is the largest and most powerful offered by Starrett, whose automatic center punches are of outstanding quality. The point is hard, and will last even on tough steels like 300 stainless. That anon wasn't joking. If you need to precisely punch metal a lot, there is nothing better to be had.

[Anonymous No.1350847]

>>1349157

[Anonymous No.1350853]

>>1349028
Vigin power drill or chad hand drill?

[Anonymous No.1350854]

>>1350847
BTFO

[Anonymous No.1350860]

>>1350843
Yes, but there's no point having any punch without a drill of some kind. For that I'd say the best tool you can own is a coping saw or hacksaw, seconded by a bandsaw or tablesaw, since saws are the starting point of any project. Can't live without them.

[Anonymous No.1350878]

>>1349190
no it requires oil and gentle pressure. if you're bearing down on the drill then your drill bits are blunt and you're using the drill as a grinding tool.

[Anonymous No.1351059]

>>1349028
so yourself?

[Anonymous No.1351104]

>>1350878
No, if you bear down on the drill you will cut a chip every rotation which will keep everything cooler because you are removing the hot cut material

[Anonymous No.1351394]

>>1350878
Depends on whether you're using carbide or some sort of harder steel.

[Anonymous No.1351406]

>>1349277
You need to use a cats paw.

[Anonymous No.1351420]

>>1350878
If your chips don't look like pic related, you're not using enough pressure for optimal cutting. It's not as big a deal with mild steel, but if you try light pressure on stainless or other work-hardening steels, you'll sit and spin, and burn up the bit's tip. Even with a fresh 135 degree split point, it takes a lot of pressure unless you're drilling tiny holes. Standard points are right out above maybe 3/16" or so unless you can brace yourself to apply a hundred or so pounds of feed pressure, and that won't get you very large without multiple steps. There's a reason manufactured holes in steel are cut by CNC machine when possible, and by drill press if possible before bringing out hand drills.

>>1351104 is right. Using the proper feed pressure actually increases the life of bits over using excessively light pressure.

[Anonymous No.1351527]

>>1350824
>you litterly need another tool just to use this tool
Retard

[Anonymous No.1351771]

>>1349026
>>1349054
>>1349097
>>1349112
>>1349123
>>1349141
>>1349146
These exist and they work great

[Anonymous No.1351877]

>>1351406
>I put nails where I shouldn't.
Stop doing that.

[Anonymous No.1352587]

>>1350878
complete bullshit. It's called drill PRESS for a reason. It's because it's a press. For bigger drills you may need more than your body weight to get the correct feed pressure.

Everything works ok for mild steel and tiny drill bits but if you try to drill tougher materials you'll want a proper chip.

I always cringe when i see people going full speed no feed with quite large (for hand drill) twist drills. Just get a feel for the right chip and your drills will live a long life. Also your holes will be done faster.

[Anonymous No.1352591]

>>1349274
>my phones autocorrect.
you would have had to hit space to make that error and phone autocorrect wouldn't follow "mill" with "right" unless you type that a lot

so not only are you a garbage phone poster who needs to gtfo until you get a real device, but you're a liar about who you are and what you do

[Anonymous No.1352688]

>>1352587
>Just get a feel for the right chip
Hahaha this just sounds absurd for a guy who drills wood and doesn't give 2 shits about feeds and speeds. I don't char anything unless I'm using that 1" blunt and rusty spade bit that's been around for who knows how long.

[Anonymous No.1352711]

>>1349113
Drills are not accurate tools, you'll always be +/- .010 ish off. Drill undersize, bore/ream to final dimension

[Anonymous No.1352720]

>>1349026
I only use a cuckpunch for pressed holes....a cuck punch can lead a bit astray in a drillpress.
t. Shop tinner

[Anonymous No.1352743]

>>1352591
Well it's plausible.

[Anonymous No.1352759]

>>1352587
Most frill bits get fucked by manual use, not by overheating but chipping the flute off

[Anonymous No.1352782]

>>1352759
Most people don't drill high-alloy steel. Poor technique can ruin the temper of high speed steel bits in a few seconds.

[Anonymous No.1352813]

>>1352759
Yes that's true. But i also found it much easier to controll the drill and stop it from fucking around in the hole if you keep it engaged and drill with a good chip. With "feel for the right chip" i meant there is an amount of pressure where the drill just cuts nice with little effort and quite stable.
Tends to be around where the chips are like >>1351420 mentioned and not tiny nearly dust like particles.
Of course drilling with a machine is always the prefered option.

[Anonymous No.1352855]

>>1352782
>poor technique
you mean not using coolant. difficult to overheat a drill bit when you're using the right amount of coolant.

[Anonymous No.1352861]

>>1352855
most of the heat gets transferred by the chip and not the coolant.
if you don't pull blue colored chips, either your a manlet and cant push or your drill is already fucked

[Anonymous No.1352905]

>>1349370
what kind of ape still does stuff in person? Just fucking send an email like a normal person

[Anonymous No.1353232]

>>1352861
>Blue chips with HHS
I bet you spend more time resharpening drills than drilling.

[Anonymous No.1353250]

>>1351877
>has never used a double headed nail for jigs or temporary scaffolding
>Stop doing that.
Advice ignored.

[Anonymous No.1353283]

>>1352711
>he doesn't finish his holes with a needle file

[Anonymous No.1353363]

>>1353283
>t. clickspring

[Anonymous No.1353400]

>>1353232
>HHS
Brainlet

[Anonymous No.1353403]

>>1353400
>using carbide to drill metal with hand powertools

[Anonymous No.1353416]

>>1353403
>HHS

[Anonymous No.1353422]

>>1353416
oh, lol, you got me

[Anonymous No.1353430]

>>1352782
actually HSS has a pretty damn high temperature to ruin the heat treat, or so I've heard

I wonder just how hot it has to get, and what common temperatures are.

[Anonymous No.1353431]

>>1353430
above 800°C, some over 900°C (i guess about 1500-1600F)

[Anonymous No.1353437]

>>1353430
>>1353431
oops i had a bit of a brainfart there. That's the annealing temperatures. Of course it will change before that. Up to 400°C should be no problem. Up to 600°C there are changes in the material but the hardness stays about the same (or even goes up). Above 600°C you are basically tempering it for under 60Rc. Of course most of the processes happening are diffusive and so time has always be taken into account too.

[Anonymous No.1353482]

>>1353403
>>1353422
Man you dumb.
>>1353416
Gets it

[Anonymous No.1353828]

>>1353250
Hey retard, the whole fucking point (or head) of duplex nails is that you can pull them with a hammer instead of a cat's paw.

[Anonymous No.1353830]

Any machine tool. If you can't make it with a file and a brace-and-bit, you don't deserve to have it.

[Anonymous No.1353832]

>>1349113
>it's an electrician who's getting uppity about punches
why are electricians such cancer?

you could make holes in conduit with a fucking awl for all it matters

[Anonymous No.1353836]

>>1353250
Also duplex nails are another great example of a cuck tool. Are you too dumb to just leave a regular nail proud or bend it over?

[Anonymous No.1353841]

this thread just goes to show that americans are cancer who literally cannot think except through memes, and are therefore cancer who must be destroyed with gas and bombs

[Anonymous No.1353883]

>use center punch
>hole still offset
dumb frog png

[Anonymous No.1353970]

>>1353836
>he doesn't drive nails in all the way with one swing
>he can stop halfway down

[Anonymous No.1354479]

>>1353830
You forgot a scraper.

[Anonymous No.1354486]

>>1349062
Is it worse than candle wax?

[Anonymous No.1354488]

>>1353830
>using that fancy cuck shit when all you need is a knife and a coffee cup to sharpen it