[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / ic / jp / lit / sci / vr / vt ] [ index / top / reports ] [ become a patron ] [ status ]
2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

View post   
File: 2.35 MB, 5312x2988, 20171018_192859.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1262621 No.1262621 [Reply] [Original]

>>>399811
Cross posting here, as there's probably more knowledgeable people here on this topic than /wsr/

I have a Kiln that is 2kw and 120v, so about 17 amps. The plug for it isn't a standard plug and is rated at 20 amps.

Does anyone know if I can get a converter to plug into an electric range or clothes drier that'll convert the 220 to 120 so I can use the higher amperage breaker the stove/drier runs on?

Pic related, it's the plug.

>> No.1262625

Weird plugs you can just chop off and replace with something more standard in your own country, step down converter from a store in the 2-3kw range will probably cost you somewhere between 50-100 dollaryroos depending on the make/model

>> No.1262626

>>1262621
what country?

>> No.1262628

>>1262621
Let me make sure i understand you.

30 amp plug
220v drier outlet is the only thing available

If the wire is sized appropriately this could work. Would be janky. I wouldn't do it in my house, but it's probably safe.

Make your own.
Metal box like a 4" square
30 amp 110 outlet
Appropriate cover plate
Replacement 4 wire drier cord
Clamp connector for metal box larger enough for drier cord.

Wire black hot, neutral and ground to 30 amp outlet correctly. Chop off red wire. Break off the tab at the end of the plug for the red wire. That should be good to go.

You're better off just running a 30 amp 110 circuit from your panel though.

>> No.1262629

>>1262626
Canada. They seem to be pretty standard for 20 amp plugs. I saw one on a 50 ton press rated at the same amperage. It prevents a person from plugging into a standard outlet with only a typical 15 amp break afaik.

>>1262625
I considered this, but the breaker would just blow, also the gauge of the wire is fairly robust, as the Kiln gets up to 1000 Celsius. Not sure if your typical grounded plug would work.

>>1262625
>converter from a store in the 2-3kw range will probably cost you somewhere between 50-100 dollaryroos depending on the make/model
This I am ok with, as I really just want to test the thing and i could return the converter.

>> No.1262631

>>1262628
Also, remember if you burn something down or shock the shit out of someone it's your fault, either for not understanding what you're doing or for asking 4chinz how to jerry rig something.

>> No.1262633

>>1262628
>Wire black hot, neutral and ground to 30 amp outlet correctly. Chop off red wire. Break off the tab at the end of the plug for the red wire. That should be good to go.
This is what I kind of wanted to know, if you could just take the 220 wires and only use one of the hot wires. Then I thought if that's possible, there should be a fairly simple 220 to 120 converter available.

>> No.1262635

>>1262631
lol, duly noted. I probably wont attempt it myself. Mains isn't something to be messing with. especially in the 220v 30 amp range.

>> No.1262638

>>1262633
It's common for people to abandon the red wire if 220 becomes unecessary. They'll disconnect the red at the panel and replace the tandem breaker with a single. Not a best practice, but common.

What I described will set you back about $22 americoon. Less if you can find a broken 220 appliance/machine and jack the cord from it.

>> No.1262639

>>1262635
Everything you'll be dealing with with be 110, as long as you break the prong off before you plug it in. But I completely understand the apprehension.

>> No.1262640

>>1262629
Just remember most kilns are essentially analogue critters with a simmerstat like a hotplate, the higher you turn it up, the more juice it sucks down. So if you just need a simple test run, a low setting of 1-2 on the dial will probably be enough for regular house circuits.
Later on they get more complicated with a digital kiln minder on the side with buttons for setting temps, firing hours and a thermocouple for reading temps, but if its an older gronk model or ceramics kiln they tend to just be a dial, pyrometric cones and witchcraft to figure out what the hotness is

>> No.1262642

>>1262638
ok interesting. At least it's an option that I can keep in mind.

>>1262640
It's probably about 20 years old, it's actually a Blue M Lab Heat Muffle furnace. So very likely analogue. I thought of it being ok at low temps, but if I want to sell it, I'd like to test its full range.

>> No.1262648

>>1262642
Kilns are simple really, provided the interior bricks are good and the elements well seated in their walls they're unlikely to have much in the way of problems. Heck mine dates back to 1987 and still ronks along just like it was new.
Essentially, do a low setting, does it get hot? yes= it'll work like its running to 10 as the simmerstat is really there just to sort of bring it up to speed over time. Set it to 10 and it'll hit max temp quickly, set it to 1 and it'll eventually drag itself up to max temp (over days!)

>> No.1262652

>>1262648
oh ok. Great information thanks. Might make it easier for me to test then, as I could just temporarily wire a new plug on to it and put it in a normal socket.

>> No.1262658

>>1262652
>I could just temporarily wire a new plug on to it and put it in a normal socket.

Don't do that. Heating elements have a positive temperature coefficient.
The thermostat is likely just a temperature sensitive switch.
When the switch closes on the cold element it will draw maximum power.

I just measured a cold 40w incandescent lamp.
25 ohms - at 120v that's almost 5 amps
when the lamp heats up the resistance goes up to ~360 ohms for the 1/3 amp to be 40 watts

>> No.1262665

>>1262658
Ok. Thanks for the warning.

I don't get how a cold single incandescent could draw 5 amps alone. I mean I understand that resistance goes up with heat and lowers with cold, but wouldn't a room with more than 3 incandescent bulbs turned on at once blow the breaker they're on?

>> No.1262669

>>1262665
No, breakers don't trip instantly as soon as the current has been reached.
Google breaker time current curve to understand more. Short answer is that the breaker doesn't have enough time to heat up and trip for short current spikes.

>> No.1262671
File: 265 KB, 872x1346, CwAqH.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1262671

>>1262665
The lamp heats up very quickly so the 5 amps last for only a moment.
Breakers have a delay built in. The over-current has to last for a predetermined time based on how much current is drawn.
With your kiln unplugged and turned ON, measure the resistance at the plug.
If the kiln is digital it may not have resistance until the controller is activated by the 120ac but it's worth a try.

>> No.1262673

>>1262671
>it may not have resistance
should have said may have near infinite resistance

>> No.1263126

>>1262669
>No, breakers don't trip instantly as soon as the current has been reached.
>Google breaker time current curve to understand more. Short answer is that the breaker doesn't have enough time to heat up and trip for short current spikes.
>>1262671
>The lamp heats up very quickly so the 5 amps last for only a moment.
>Breakers have a delay built in. The over-current has to last for a predetermined time based on how much current is drawn
oh ok cool. this makes sense, but I never would have thought that.

>>1262671
>With your kiln unplugged and turned ON, measure the resistance at the plug.
>If the kiln is digital it may not have resistance until the controller is activated by the 120ac but it's worth a try.
I'll have to do that. Thanks again.