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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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1251659 No.1251659 [Reply] [Original]

I'm testing some stain/finishing options for an upcoming project and I'm really not liking how some parts of the grain stands out and is much lighter than the rest of the wood. Is there any way to have a more even shade while still showing the grain? I'm using Douglas Fir cause poor.

>> No.1251661
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1251661

>>1251659

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvhvR8KwWhw

>> No.1251701

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pQybCXLncQ&list=PLsbDepiaEgVOb2IW3kQRWRoEjY_2YVVkl
Skip to 8:20 - SPIT COAT
any pine is splotchy and a bitch to stain

>> No.1252288

>>1251659
use a non-penetrating color product, like gel stain or a poly-stain combo.

>> No.1252353

>>1251701
>any pine is splotchy and a bitch to stain

maybe your video covers this, maybe not, but some woods look more uniform if you use a conditioner:

https://www.thespruce.com/using-a-pre-stain-wood-conditioner-3536498

>> No.1252367

I think the problem with staining conifers is the resin content.

Maybe if you were to try and clean out the resin with something like TSP or Acetone it might help.
That's what I'd try.

>> No.1252447

>>1251659
Yeah it's called paint.

>> No.1252452

1. Sand to a lower grit. Fir at 220 or even 150 takes stain very slowly. Stop at 100 and just build more finish on top. (Remember to build layers with gloss and only the last 1-2 applications get anything less shiny.)

2) If there's no finish going over the stain, you *can* sand higher but it'll take much longer to soak in.

3) Fir is blotchy. It's the sap, and there's very little you can do.

4) Wood conditioners help even out the stain taken by dry grain, but they don't help with sap all that much.

5) You can always just get a jug of BLO (boiled linseed oil - inexpensive), sand to 150, and put 7 coats on. Fir can look pretty schnazzy with oil. Mix 60/40 oil/thinner for the first two coats to help penetration.

I would do #5. Staining fir is a real bitch. Enough of a bitch that it falls squarely in the "do something else" category.

There are definitely stainable evergreens, but most of them, especially industrial fir, should be oiled or painted.

Tip for poorness: go to a lumber place, not a box store, and be real with the folks there. Not only will you get better quality wood for cheaper (and with square edges) but they'll likely (a) want to teach you about grains and (b) have a scrap pile that you can pull from for free or pennies on the dollar.

>> No.1252478

>>1252452

Good advice but remember to add a shot of black to the linseed oil, for the professional touch.

>> No.1252503

I'll look into that.