csg - chain saw general

[Anonymous No.1244422]

chainsaws get me hard. show me your saws.

[Anonymous No.1244431]

i have a couple stihls, they are both pieces of dog shit that i assume satan built for the sole intention of tormenting the poor fool who bought them

does there exist a GOOD chainsaw brand? one that actually starts easy and doesnt clog with wood chips causing the chain oiler to malfunction and wreck the whole thing

[Anonymous No.1244433]

>>1244431
never had a problem with my 028 and husky 240 firewood saw. are you sure it's not operator error? i know most people who own chainsaws tend to be brainlets.

[Anonymous No.1244436]

>>1244433
its not operator error, friend, its the fucking tool

[Anonymous No.1244437]

>>1244436
are you the tool?

[Anonymous No.1244439]

>>1244436
Only a shitty craftsman blames his tools.

[Anonymous No.1244440]

>>1244439
thats just not true

[Anonymous No.1244443]

>>1244440
I can sense your lack of self awareness

[Anonymous No.1244445]

>>1244440
it really is. every time i go on youtube i see some retard doing something with a quarter of the tools i have twice as good as i've done it

[Anonymous No.1244448]

>>1244445
maybe youre just a shitty craftsman

[Anonymous No.1244454]

>>1244448
i am, which is why i don't blame my tools.
are you slow?

[Anonymous No.1244463]

>>1244454
>I am a shitty craftsman, which is why I don't blame my tools
>blames the tool for being shit

OP, Stihl saws are known for being pretty much the best chainsaws you can buy. They're expensive as hell, but they'll outlast you and work forever.

[Anonymous No.1244464]

Unironically this, already had 3 chainsaws but Mom bought me this for christmas. Still havent found someone to give it to in exchange for sleeping with my mum.

[Anonymous No.1244466]

>>1244463
>blames the tool for being shit
when did i do that?
i know i'm drunk, but i'm still coherent enough to know what i say.

[Anonymous No.1244478]

>>1244431
Echo. starts way easier then any Stihl i've ever used.

>>1244433
newer Stihls are fucking garbage. pretty much any dealer will tell you they started sliding with the MS series

[Anonymous No.1244479]

>>1244478
echo makes some pretty based 2 strokes. my echo trimmer is the most reliable 2 stroke i own. i wish i had more trimming to do so I could get more use out of it.

[Anonymous No.1244494]

>>1244479
yeah i bought an echo trimmer last year and it works great. have the regular trimmer attachment and a saw blade attachment which is great for weeds with tough stems. usually starts in 2-3 pulls

saw i bought was an Echo CS 490 and again it's been great. starts way easier then my Stihl saws.

[Anonymous No.1244501]

>>1244422
mine never runs out of fuel

[Anonymous No.1244510]

>>1244501
Guess you've never actually used it then...

You'll run out of fuel before you're half way through a limb.

[Anonymous No.1244521]

anyone tried cordless electric shit?

looking for a saw for camping, 4x4, gathering firewood, etc. but will only be occasional use so the low maintenance of cordless electric shit looks ideal

[Anonymous No.1244522]

>>1244521
Stick with the major brands and get at least 2 of the biggest batteries available. Really for small camp fires and such you could get by with a bow saw

[Anonymous No.1244544]

>>1244436
Stihl has several quality tiers. You probably only have one of their homeowner grade tools.

Secondly, even the pro models need regular maintenance and cleaning.

[Anonymous No.1244545]

Have had a Stihl MS 170 for a good couple of years - runs like a charm, starts on two pulls (one on cold, then another on warm, and it's good to go).

Small pet peeve is that the chain doesn't oil itself quite as well as I'd like, but otherwise, as I sharpen the chain regularly, can tackle even larger projects.

The Husqvarna 336FR trimmer I have seems to be better built, and an overall nicer piece of kit, so I think I'll go for a Husqvarna when I'm up for a replacement, but at least this Stihl is mostly fine.

Oh, a question to other - how likely are your saw carbs likely to get fucked by fuel left in the tank over, say, 6 months? Because this is very likely to do so, so I'm wondering.

[Anonymous No.1244548]

>>1244522
was more thinking about clearing fallen trees off the trails (not uncommon in my state) with firewood and campfires being more minor uses

been eyeing a new mower and trimmer so i'm eyeing the chainsaws that use the same battery system

[Anonymous No.1244746]

>>1244545
i've left fuel for over a year without any issue. really as long as you're fuel is clean it's not really an issue

>>1244548
should be fine for that. as long as you don't need a long run time battery powered is pretty handy. electric in general is quite a bit more dangerous tho. they usually have higher torque so it's easier to get kick back and they kick back far harder. safety chaps also don't work very well as they depend on the fibers clogging shit up but electric have enough torque to just keep going

[Anonymous No.1244755]

>>1244746
Does yours' run on pure gas, not the 1:50 mix?

Because I've paid 70 goddamn dollars for a new carb for this mistake.

[Anonymous No.1244871]

>>1244755
you can clean it out though.
ultrasonic cleaning and a new membrane.(the membrane usually dries out with low quality petrol) should do the trick.
also how common is Aspen pre mixed fuel in the states? its very much worth its small premium in the long run. both for the engine and yourself.
we only use our saws a few days a year, and they still start within 2-3 pulls after priming with aspen.

[Anonymous No.1244905]

>>1244755
isn't pretty much every saw mixed? even those new 4 strokes Stihl has still need to be mix(those are shit engines btw). as long as you use decent gas and a decent oil you should be fine. i have 2 Stihls that are about 15 years old, both start just fine and the carbs have never been touched. have never emptied them before storage either. hell i have an old ass Husky that's been sitting for years(piston fucked) and i'd bet i could go outside right now, put fresh gas in and it'd fire right up even with the fucked piston

also why would you have to buy a new carb? you can clean the damn thing and add new seals for like $20

[Anonymous No.1244958]

Lombard camongo

[Anonymous No.1245137]

Had this MS381 for a couple months now.

No complaints.

[Anonymous No.1245183]

I have a Husqvarna 238 which I've used for years doing mainly backyard firewood stuff and the occasional tree falling

Treated myself to another husky 350 one christmas. Works fine. Started to get a bit more ambitious with the firewood nonsense, picking up by the roadside and such, but by the time I'd see something and get off work later, only the 4ft plus logs would still be there since the small stuff was snatched already

Was just wasting time with the 350, so again, treated myself to the 562xp about a year ago. Works like a brute

All in all, good chain and proper maintenance is key

Used to not really "care" about safety gear but now I wear chaps and saw boots

[Anonymous No.1245215]

>>1244905
I am not a mechanistman, I am a woodworker and homebrewer, friend.

Thus I paid what the repair shop asked, and cried in my pillow after.

Happened a second time as well (do not lend tools), that time they charged me $15.

The symptoms were stalling when the power is revved up, with a nasty NNNNH.

[Anonymous No.1245240]

>>1245215

>I am not a mechanistman

They're easy as fuck. Like if you can use a screw driver and tell the difference between a slotted and Phillips screw you are set.

[Anonymous No.1245388]

>>1245215
It's really very easy to do. Just watch a YouTube video on carb cleaning and you can work on pretty much any carb. Setting them is a bit harder. I can do small adjustments easy enough but if it's really out my dealer will sharpen, clean and tune a saw for $20. It's worth it just to get all the sawdust cleaned out

[Anonymous No.1245615]

>>1244431
I think older stihls were made better, but i will never fall for brand loyalty again (even though i have a few friends who are employees at one of the bar plants and get me a decent discount), the last two i had were complete shits. My 088 was good to go, it could be tempermental from time to time, required a lot of post maintenance. However, when i put a 60" bar on it, it could slab a 12ft section of red oak in less than four minutes, it was a hog!

I have a homelite xl from 1981 that still runs like a champ, just needs some tlc now and then, and is probably one of the easiest to start. I had a stihl 180 easy start that i used to just keep in the truck, it really was easy to start, but it was always breaking so i threw it away (not impressed).

I bought an echo while i was waiting on one of my saws to be repaired, and it is one of the best general use saws i have ever owned, the key is just good maintenance/ethanol free gas/occasional manual bar oiling.

Im planning on buying a husqvarma 460 next. My father in law has had the same husky for almost 20 years, and felled probably 200+ trees with it. One of the best performing chainsaws I've ever used.

Also, I've started to use oregon bars and chains when they need replacing, and have been very pleased with them. I've only had to sharpen one once in three seasons etc.

[Anonymous No.1245621]

>>1245615
Yep the older Stihls are pretty solid. Newer ones are complete garbage. The pro models are still decent but that's it, the rest are just shit plastic and they keep trying new shit like the 4 mix engine and easy start that makes the saws that much worse

[Anonymous No.1246670]

Over the past few years, I've cut about a dozen cords of oak and maple with my Echo CS-400. Never let me down yet. Probably the best thing you can do for any consumer grade saw is replace the low kickback chain with something more aggressive. Holy shit did it cut better after that...

[Anonymous No.1247119]

>>1246670
the reason consumer grade saws have low kick back chains is that most people buying those saws have never touched a saw before.

i've also seen people that have never touched a saw run out and buy the biggest saw they can afford without a single fucking clue how to handle it. usually they get the hang of it after i make them use a smaller saw but i've seen people refuse to give up their saw and end up fucking themselves up pretty good

[Anonymous No.1247563]

>>1247119
That's the truth, for sure. My uncle spent $500 on a real nice Stihl, cut down a six inch wide maple, and hasn't used it since. Still probably cheaper than paying someone else, but goddamn, what a waste.

[Anonymous No.1247572]

>>1244422
My GF's father is an old farmer type. He has like half a dozen old Jonsered saws. Those things are 100% solid metal, heavy as fuck. Really bitchly to get started, but once they're warm it's no problem. Slinging one of those around will really put hair on your chest, but my social worker muscles really appreciate my half plastic Echo saw.

[Anonymous No.1247574]

>>1247572
yep weight is the biggest problem with old saws. they also lack a lot of safety features

[Anonymous No.1247584]

>>1244521
Have a greenworks 60v. Can vouch. Incredible saw for portable lightweight sawing (6" dia no problem). Overheats on heavier stuff though. Get two batteries.

[Anonymous No.1247586]

>>1247572
Looks very much like one of mine bar the missing air filter cover.

My small one get much more use than that.

[Anonymous No.1247595]

>>1247574
This. Also speed. Plenty of torque but they don't have the RPMs of a modern saw so it takes longer to cut with them. I have a few old Homelites that are fucking beasts. One even uses a manual bar oiler.

[Anonymous No.1247599]

>>1245615
I have my grandads homelite xl and that thing is a champ. I pulled it out of a storage unit where it sat for 10 years, put fresh gas in it and started cutting. I'm buying land to clear for farming so I'll probably need to a new saw at some point but I can't decide betwn a Husky, Stihl, or Jonsered.

[Anonymous No.1247616]

>>1247599
Echo is the best bang for your buck

[Anonymous No.1247710]

new addition

[Anonymous No.1247715]

>>1247710

[Anonymous No.1247720]

>>1247710
>>1247715

090?

The stihl dealer sold a brand new 720 on my island recently. I wish I took more pictures before it left the shelf.

[Anonymous No.1247721]

>>1247720
070 old model without the AV

[Anonymous No.1247787]

>>1244422

[Anonymous No.1247788]

>>1247616
LOLOLOLOL

[Anonymous No.1247795]

Anyone here use a granberg mill? I want to get one for rough cutting timber.

[Anonymous No.1247881]

>>1247788
They are. Plenty of high end features for the price of a mid range saw. They Are also made in Japan and not China like Stihl. Fucking Stihl even has electronics in their pro saws now, they've become a real joke

[Anonymous No.1247887]

>>1247881
>joke
You spelled jew wrong. any company that outsources to china is owned by jews. white men know that their product is their best salesman and only produce in the USA.

[Anonymous No.1247891]

>>1247887

>USA

>Implying that makes a tool good

I have had some real shitty USA built tools, equipment and material and I swear to god that I wish I had bought China shit instead

[Anonymous No.1247900]

>>1247891
problem is Stihl is just living off their old reputation and die hard fans they gained when their saws were actually good. go buy any Stihl today, doesn't matter if it's a home owners saw or pro model most of the parts are cheap Chinese junk made by the lowest bidder. sure any country can make cheap shit but but when it comes to cutting corners and using the worst possible materials China is king. on top of being cheap garbage they don't stand behind their warranty so when something does happen you're fucked

see >>1244478 for proof. that saw was 1 month old and used for 3 hours total before the housing just split open. the plastic there is only about 2mm thick and has to support the lower handle and all the vibrations. Stihl claimed they've NEVER seen a saw do that and it must be the owners fault so warranty denied. upon disassembly i found all but 3 parts were made in China and all were fucking garbage. hell the fucking piston was even cracked which again Stihl claimed was impossible. customer had a total lemon and Stihl wouldn't do jack shit for him.

[Anonymous No.1247911]

>>1247900
old stihl are the top, i bought this used 064 last year for 300 euro and it is one of the best saws i've ever used and i use it daily
064, 038, 361 and 460 have been my favorites so far. i use the 070 for the big stuff but it makes your hands go numb after a while and it's heavy, it's 18kg when full

[Anonymous No.1247923]

>>1247900
Small toy saws, like ms 171 and similar are made in China, the bigger ones are made in Germoney

[Anonymous No.1247934]

Sawyer on a wildland fire crew. We run mostly 044 and 440s. Learn fucking maintenance. Learn how to fucking sharpen. We put our saws through absolute hell, things will break, learn how to fix them.

[Anonymous No.1247947]

>>1247934
Watch the language wranglerstar.

[Anonymous No.1247954]

>>1247574
>they also lack a lot of safety features
Safety is for pussies who have all their fingers

[Anonymous No.1247987]

>>1247923

Or Brazil depending on the model.

>>1247900

I am the guy with the new 381 >>1245137
I also have a lot of friends/competitors in the same business.

We primarily have never had problems with our saws except for some badly adjusted carbs from the dealer or some really abused saws failing, ie. Guy gets the chain pinched and thinks that if he holds the throttle down long enough it will pull free. I also guess it depends on your dealer because even though our stihl dealer has the monopoly on all 2-stroke equipment and their stuff is expensive they are legitimately people you can count on to honour warranties and help you with problems.

I went in seeing if they could convince me to buy the 440 instead of the 381 but the guy didn't even try to sway me.

[Anonymous No.1248078]

Me and my dad use a bunch of Stihls from the late 70's. 038, 038 Super, 038 Magnum, a few 040's that are hard to start, and we always keep a little 032 for small limbs and trail clearing.

Have Oregon bars and chains on all of them. The best thing to do is buy a sharpener to fit your mounted grinder, that's what we use. On a rainy day I can sharpen 6 or 7 chains in an hour. No exuse to cut with a dull chain when it's that easy. Someone itt mentioned keeping the same chain on for 3 seasons, how in the fuck? When it's firewood season, I'm switching chains every other session. That's without cutting off knots, staying out of the dirt and rocks, but also cutting mostly locust and oak. The difference between a fresh chain and even a slightly dull chain is huge, I encourage everyone to do their own sharpening and do it frequently.

[Anonymous No.1248082]

>>1244422
So jealous

I wanted a stihl, instead we got some lame fucking home depot special. Which I've neglected to no end to prove to the wife that we need a good one

Which we'll be getting soon lmao

[Anonymous No.1248083]

>>1247947

[Anonymous No.1248098]

>>1247947
ez senpai, he might be suicidal.

[Anonymous No.1248099]

>>1248082
>wife determines my purchases

you know how I know you're a cuck?

[Anonymous No.1248103]

>>1247911
the older MS saws are still decent. just the newer ones(10 years or so) are fucked

>>1247923
no they are assembled in Germany(and the US) with chink parts.

[Anonymous No.1248111]

Want a real Stihl? Get an older one (non-Strato) that ain't beat to shit.

In the market for new? Grab a Echo 355T and get their non-professional 3yr (or was it 5) warranty.

>>1244545
>Oh, a question to other - how likely are your saw carbs likely to get fucked by fuel left in the tank over, say, 6 months? Because this is very likely to do so, so I'm wondering.

let the saw run out of gas if you're going longterm. A tablespoon of 2 stroke oil into the sparkplug port helps out too if going 1yr+

Otherwise, get some of that premixed stihl ethanol-free gas or promix from lowes with stabilizers already added. I'd recommend against ever buying fuel stabilizer and mixing it into your 2stroke mix - it seems to do more harm than good imo (eats the tygon fuel lines like gummy worms).

6mth storage - premix non-ethanol
1yr+ - run it out of premix gas, add a tablespoon of 2stroke oil, replace the plug and pull the starter cord slowly while turning the saw in all manners of way and leave it at 180deg from TDC

>>1245615
>I think older stihls were made better,
>>1245621
>and they keep trying new shit like the 4 mix engine and easy start that makes the saws that much worse
blame the EPA/EUcleanAIR and their nonsense

>>1247900
>sure any country can make cheap shit but but when it comes to cutting corners and using the worst possible materials China is king.
not completely true. Lets put it this way, it all depends if the company is ISO-certified, or just some lowbidder.

[Anonymous No.1248112]

>>1248099
Nah, we just bought the house, spent about 20k in upgrades, and didn't really have the cash then

That was about 6 years ago, and the other chainsaw still hasn't died, unfortunately, but it's not good enough for the trees in the back yard, so I'm be getting my stihl soon

[Anonymous No.1248124]

>>1244422
I have a,

Husqvarna T540
husqvarna 560XPG Ported, 3/8 conversion , now has an air filter mod and is basically identical to the husqvarna 562xp
husqvarna 390XP
Stihl MS 180 (with cannon dime tip)
Stihl HT 131

Only one pic tho.

[Anonymous No.1248135]

[Anonymous No.1248136]

>>1248135

[Anonymous No.1248137]

>>1248136

[Anonymous No.1248140]

>>1248137

[Anonymous No.1248165]

>>1248140

>Grab handle made out of 3/4" sch 80, English pressure pipe

Yeah boy

[Anonymous No.1248168]

>>1248112

If it cuts alright with a sharp chain why the fuck would you try kill it? It's almost like when your wife crashed the Toyota to force you to buy her a Mercedes.

[Anonymous No.1248171]

>>1248165
direct link too. You could give yourself all the strangers you want after a day using that thing.

[Anonymous No.1248172]

>>1248124

>HT131

I wish I could get one. But one of those costs as much as a brand new 440 and 4 jugs of bar oil.

[Anonymous No.1248175]

>>1248171

>You could give yourself all the strangers you want

>mfw

[Anonymous No.1248231]

>>1248172
>HT131

I must admit its one of the best things i have ever bought, saves the need to climb alot of times.

If you can justify it get one you can run an 18" bar on it no problem at all, you shouldn't but you can.

[Anonymous No.1248262]

what about battery powered chainsaws?

ive heard nothing but great reviews about Makita's 36v brushless model, it helps that they are one of the few power tool companies that also make gas powered equipment.

[Anonymous No.1248280]

>>1248168
That's the problem, it cuts branches, but has a short bar and a weak engine. Anything over 12" and it's a real bastard to use, Even new out of the box.

I have a 8" electric chain saw on a pole that cuts better

[Anonymous No.1248285]

>>1248168
It's not toyota to Mercedes
More like pinto to toyota

[Anonymous No.1248520]

>>1248262
I guess that might work on sticks and twigs and such. Maybe trim back your pubes a bit?

[Anonymous No.1248522]

>>1248262
out

[Anonymous No.1248541]

>>1248262
By law I had the misfortune to use the husqvarna T536LIXP equivalent top handle, now it's issue wasn't really power in terms of cutting, it handled the job surprisingly well kept up with the t540 petrol saw, it's the fucking battery it barely lasted an equivalent of half a tank of the t540, having said that. It makes a lovely change to have air in your fave rather than fumes. Just you will need 3 batteries for a day job probably.

[Anonymous No.1248822]

>>1248172
i got the HT103 last year. gotta be one tough mother fucker to use those things fully extended for more then 20-30 min. the harness likely helps a lot but it's pretty expensive. i only need it to trim branches around fields anyway so not a big deal. biggest problem is it can be a real cunt to start which i blame on the stupid 4-mix engine, pretty quiet tho

[Anonymous No.1250574]

>>1244478
+10 on Echo. Surprisingly good machine. Maybe best value for $ out there right now.

[Anonymous No.1250617]

I bought an older Mcculloch from a garage sale, the thing is practically brand new but hasn't been used in years. The only problem is I can't figure out how to adjust the damn carb where it's idle is stable. I've looked at every youtube vid on carb adjustment and nothing I do makes it idle normally, it either dies, spins the chain at full power, or dies when I apply any throttle. Should I just give up and take it to someone who knows what the fuck they're doing?

[Anonymous No.1250644]

>>1250617
Sounds like one of the little vents in the carb is gummed up. For what it's worth, I use Stability in all my gasoline mixtures.

[Anonymous No.1250645]

>>1250644
*Stabil. Fuck Tim Cooke and his faggot brigade.

[Anonymous No.1250654]

>>1250617
yes and have them show you and if they want to be a dick about it (ugh we cant allow you in the back) then go someplace else that will

[Anonymous No.1252584]

what is the most kawaii saw type and why is it an Arborists Saw

[Anonymous No.1252604]

>>1252584
I didnt know those existed till I started watching Humans channel on youtube. He's got some pretty cool videos about being an arborist

[Anonymous No.1252651]

>>1252584
Ask Greg Norman about those small Stihls. I've used one and it is soooo easy to want to use it one handed while grabbing branches and what not with the other hand. Sooner or later you gonna get yourself.

[Anonymous No.1252654]

>>1252584
Celebrity endorsed.

[Anonymous No.1252655]

>>1252651

I'm not supposed to use mine that way?

[Anonymous No.1252657]

>>1252655
Sure you are. Everybody does. Just be super careful.

[Anonymous No.1253303]

>>1247911
>064
>that power-to-weight ratio
Jealous, anon. I'd love to pick up an 064 or 066, but I must admit I don't really need one.

>>1244422
Here's a family photo:
an 024 w/ 16" b&c,
034 w/ 18" b&c, and
MS 460 w/ 20" b&c (plus 28" b&c for large trees)

Yes, they're filthy, but I'm in the middle of firewooding season.

[Anonymous No.1253304]

https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/ARFSAW-Let-s-build-a-Chainsaw-/5-2037519/

Somewhat relevant- some arfcom faggot is building a Stilh from scratch using 100% aftermarket parts

[Anonymous No.1253325]

>>1253304
RIP in piece. That thing is going to kill him

[Anonymous No.1253326]

>>1253304
You can build a 660 clone for under $200. Of course they can have some...problems.

http://www.huztl.net/Complete-Repair-Parts-for-STIHL-MS660-066-Chainsaw-Engine-Motor-Crankcase-Crankshaft-Carburetor-Fuel-Tank-Cylinder-Piston-Ignition-Coil-p225729.html

[Anonymous No.1253473]

My new saw with a 32" bar. Cuts like a champ through oak!

[Anonymous No.1253504]

>>1253473
>>1253473
661? The local loggers speak highly of that saw. With a 3-port muffler and a little porting it really rips.

I'm skeptical about the long-term durability of the m-tronic carbs though. Loggers buy new saws regularly whereas I'm still running a 20+ year old Stihl.

[Anonymous No.1253624]

What's the best way to drop this ~60ft tree?
The hollow part is about 4 feet tall. The tree is angled to drop in the direction of the photo. I'm worried about it splitting and killing me on the way down.

Should I knotch and cut above the hollow?

[Anonymous No.1253640]

>>1253624
profile

[Anonymous No.1254181]

>>1253624
Where do you spell notch like that?
That one is trouble all over. You got to completely limb that sucker and then try to take it down in three or four pieces from the top.

[Anonymous No.1254242]

>>1254181
it's not going to hit anything(other than me). you really think it needs to come down in sections?

[Anonymous No.1254262]

>>1254242

Not the other guy, but to be honest with that kind of lean you could probably just cut it straight from the back and it would fall away no problem. Though uncontrolled it would fall away.

I would give it a notch but notch no more than one third. It's got most of its strength in the back for sure

[Anonymous No.1254322]

>>1254242
You said you were worried about it splitting. You can see it better than I can. That's the only reason I suggested taking it down from the top.

[Anonymous No.1255832]

>>1253303
064 is awesome but it's heavy for swinging it around all day which i do, i have used this saw for small and big stuff for two years now. 066 is even heavier and i wouldn't consider it unless it's for powering longer bars
where i work they gave me an MS440 with 18" bar and chain which is lighter but still very powerful. it's a good saw but I think the 460 is better built and it's going to be my next saw in case this one gives up

[Anonymous No.1256198]

>>1244422

[Anonymous No.1257813]

>>1244422
Fuck off jason

[Anonymous No.1259554]

Vulture here, scored a Stihl at goodwill, think i can do a good rebuild on it?

[Anonymous No.1259556]

>>1259554
my kid has one of those

[Anonymous No.1259558]

>>1259556

lucky kid, i had to wait until i was a grownup to buy my first tec-9

[Anonymous No.1259600]

>>1259558

Kek, I didn't even notice that

[Anonymous No.1261332]

There's a really old craftsman electric chainsaw at a pawn shop near me. It has the metal grab handle instead of plastic. Looks like this but with a different color scheme. They've been asking $44 for a year now. I figure I can get it for $20 out the door.

What do?

[Anonymous No.1261343]

>>1261332
Old motors are objectively weaker and bigger than new ones. They made them huge for a reason. More reliable? Maybe
Regardless, a tool like this where you need serious power to not be dangerous?

I'd pass on it, you'll smoke the motor or it'll be too weak.

[Anonymous No.1261368]

>>1244431
I'm guessing you never blow it clean right? Fucking retards man...

I run stihls all day everyday and they're great.

[Anonymous No.1261371]

>>1254181
You expect somebody to climb that tree? Wouldn't catch me up that tree and I'm an arborist.

I'd probably cut a small notch and then plunge cut the middle and then cut from the back as normal. Shouldn't give you too much trouble.

[Anonymous No.1261393]

>>1261371
My step father said the same thing. I'll drop it this weekend and post results. Thanks

[Anonymous No.1261469]

>>1244510
right? get them long twitch endurance muscles twitchin

[Anonymous No.1261470]

>>1261343

Hm, good point. But I know that vintage craftsman tools are better than modern ones.

[Anonymous No.1261477]

>>1247881
lol stihl uses a self learning carburetor with a hall effect sensor. this is diy damnit! cross pollinate with electronics and PROSPER! :^)

[Anonymous No.1261551]

>>1261470
>But I know that vintage craftsman tools are better than modern ones.

This is true, for the tools that happened to have come from a good OEM and happened to survive all these years.
Just because it says craftsman and its old doesnt automatically mean its a good tool.

If you can get it cheap, let us know how it works out.
Just dont be surprised if it falls into the cliche of "electric chainsaws blow", regardless if its old or not

[Anonymous No.1261556]

>>1261551

oh electric chainsaws fucking suck, i already have my expectations set hella low

[Anonymous No.1263256]

>>1244422
k

[Anonymous No.1264036]

Nailing a vice to a tree stump is worthwhile if you are going to spend some time away from the trail

[Anonymous No.1264111]

>>1252651
That’s what top handle saws are for. They are amazing for climbing trees to cut off branches. You can cut with one hand while holding a ladder or branch with the other. Of course it’s dangerous but so is fucking everything with a chainsaw

[Anonymous No.1264112]

>>1264036
I just mount one to my atv or truck. You can make or buy a hitch receiver for it too

[Anonymous No.1264171]

>>1264112

I have a hitch receiver "bench" made up for my truck but where that photo is an ATV inaccessible swamp

[Anonymous No.1264458]

>>1244439
That doesn't even apply in this situation. It is in reference to quality of end product.

[Anonymous No.1265921]

>>1264111
>cutting from a ladder
Enjoy life in a wheelchair.

>>1264458
Sure it does, the guy obviously doesn't maintenance his saw.

[Anonymous No.1265955]

>>1265921
It’s fine as long as you know what you’re doing. Unfortunately some branches are just too high up to get with a pole saw. If you’re retarded enough to let the branch hit you or the ladder you deserve it

[Anonymous No.1265965]

>>1265955
No it isn't fine. Don't give out poor and dangerous advice like that.

[Anonymous No.1266038]

>>1244431
Stihl, Dolmar and Husqvarna are all good. If you have that problem with Stihl, you will also have it with others. I usually use Stihl, because our company has them. I tried a Dolmar once and liked the sound better, not that high pitched.

[Anonymous No.1266137]

>>1244431
Not really, there's nothing better than Stihl and Husqvarna

[Anonymous No.1266140]

>>1264036
>he can't sharpen the chain holding the saw between his legs

[Anonymous No.1266144]

>>1261332
What are you supposed to cut with the cord that short? A hole in the wall?

[Anonymous No.1266151]

get on my level greasemonkeys

[Anonymous No.1266196]

>>1266151
>get on my level
Lol

[Anonymous No.1266200]

>>1265921

man everyone needs to own one of those arborist saws, they are the most kawaii of all chainsaws

[Anonymous No.1266233]

>>1266200
Yeah they're really great saws. The modern ones can pull a 16" bar easily. They can overheat with lots of use though. Most guys can get by with one and an 036 or 046 if they do lots of fellong and bucking. 026 size is great fit limbing and moderate bucking though. Really depends on your needs, if you only need a saw to fall small to mid sized trees and little bucking then an arborist saw is kino.

[Anonymous No.1266442]

>>1259554
That saw is cute! A CUTE!

Also: are we just going to ignore that TEC-9 in the background?

[Anonymous No.1266443]

>>1266144
most electric outdoor tools have super short cords

you need to run an extension out for it anyway so i guess they save a few shekels there (and it's probably a liability thing too, you can't cut through their cord so if you get zapped it's not their problem)

[Anonymous No.1266473]

>>1265955
>what
Lrn 2 climb fagit

Really though if it's too tall for your one saw, the only option is to climb.up there and get up on it

[Anonymous No.1266488]

>>1266442
It is customary to ignore attention whoring.

[Anonymous No.1268041]

It's such a handy little worker

[Anonymous No.1269994]

>>1247795
How much timber are you looking to cut? It's a really nice tool once you've got the starting slabs cut and get going.

[Anonymous No.1270534]

>>1247599
Which model? I have a 1960s 90cc, damn thing is amazing, weighs a ton tho.

[Anonymous No.1272865]

save this thread

[Anonymous No.1272889]

>>1266137
What about dolmar and echo?

[Anonymous No.1272894]

>>1244422
I have bought a a McCulloch CS400 recently (just became landowner and I need to clear a fuckton of storm damage in my forest), today I tried sharpening the chain myself for the first time.
The last time my dad brought it to a saw shop and they did an absolutely horrendous job, cutting into the drive links and making really uneven grinds.
I tried to follow the factory angle as close as possible and all the teeth were very sharp by the time I was done.

>It worked great for 3 cuts but then started making super fine sawdust.
If I press it against the wood really hard it makes chips again, but obviously the saw bogs down and I end up smoking the chain. Before you lapidate me for this, I don't really care about this chain anymore. The saw shop guy has fucked the temper on it anyway (there's visible heat marks on some of the teeth).

I'm thinking depth gauges, since I haven't filed those down and neither did the saw shop.
Do you pros have any other ideas? It seems like such a strange failure mode. At first it seemed to work pretty well.

[Anonymous No.1272912]

>>1272894
practice practice practice practice. don't worry about fucking up the chain. they are cheap. youtube is loaded with people showing their method, but after a few months of free handing it i'm pretty good. a gauge for the depth guage is a nice tool to have.

[Anonymous No.1273394]

>>1272889
Dolmar is just Makita and echo is shit

[Anonymous No.1273462]

>>1273394
I dont know about post-buyout, but Dolmar is one of the oldest chainsaw makers. Quality wise they were at least on par with Stihl.

[Anonymous No.1274326]

coud a chainsaw motor be used to power a small generator? or car alternator to get some power?

[Anonymous No.1274550]

As a tangentially related question - anyone got insights on leafblowers?

I'm looking at the Husqvarna 125B, seems decent enough - cannot see the point in paying 50% more 525BX, as the specs are nearly identical.

Any insights? Never had a leafblower before, but the kit I've got from Husqvarna I'm 100% happy with (compared with the Stihl 85%).

Also - am I right in thinking the combo blower/leaf vacuum things are weird and useless?

[Anonymous No.1274557]

>>1274550

I have a stihl BG86. Even though it is technically light it tires my shoulder as fast as a 5 gallon gas can for some reason.

If you are going to use it on long pathways or even a medium sized yard avoid a handheld and get a backpack one.

The 125b looks like it doesn't have any anti-vibe so maybe what you are paying for with the 525bx is the comfort features.

The BG86 is considered stihls pro comfort handheld blower but sometimes I wish I sprung for the even the weakest backpack model. That said it's much faster than raking so it fulfills it's purpose

[Anonymous No.1274564]

>>1274557
Thanks for the insight. The backpack ones are quite a bit more expensive, at least where I am, hence looking at this - got two yards in two different locations to service, one is what you'd call small-ish, the other... The area I mow with my rider mower is about 1 hectare (2.7 acres), but leaves are likely to be a problem on, maybe, 15% of it? Really just near the big oaks and maples, of which there are a couple.

You reckon I should spring for a backpack then?

[Anonymous No.1274572]

>>1274557
>>1274564
Checked the prices - the cheapest backpack blower from Husqvarna, 530BT, is twice as much as the 125B. Cheapest Stihl backpack is about the same.

Guess I'll get the 125B, want to kill myself, and get a backpack one next year.

Keep the smaller one at the smaller property, maybe?

[Anonymous No.1274586]

>>1274550
i've got the 125b. works great and starts easy. i'm not super happy with the mulching feature, but i guess it works. i do wish it had more power though.

[Anonymous No.1274590]

>>1274557
problem is that BG86 throws quite a bit more then the cheapest backpack blower. just rig up a shoulder strap to take some of the weight off

[Anonymous No.1274598]

>>1274586
You mean the 125BVX, I think? That's priced nearly the same as the 525BX here - I think I'll still go for the 125B regular, no mulching.

Thanks for letting me know it starts easy, though, the smaller property is me mum's, and if she can start it, she can probably use it - saves me a trip.

>>1274590

Thank you all so much for the input. I guess my hopes that folks who have chainsaws likely have leafblowers was correct.

(Mine's a Stihl 170, and my trimmer is a Husqvarna 336FR)

[Anonymous No.1274605]

>>1274590
i only have a blower to clean off the combine. works amazingly well. far better then using a brush. they also work well for drying vehicles. the BG86 sucks it's air from the right side so if you use it left handed it could possibly suck your shirt in and be a real fucking pain in the ass.

[Anonymous No.1274607]

>>1274598
i only have a blower to clean off the combine. works amazingly well. far better then using a brush. they also work well for drying vehicles. the BG86 sucks it's air from the right side so if you use it left handed it could possibly suck your shirt in and be a real fucking pain in the ass.

[Anonymous No.1274643]

>>1274607

>so if you use it left handed it could possibly suck your shirt in and be a real fucking pain in the ass.

It doesn't quite suck in the shirt but your shirt or pants just simply block the intake and you can notice it over revving and not blowing as a vacuum is created. You can switch hands but you just have to hold it away from you.

We have large leaf plants here. Gingers and cladium that if you are blowing on a path along side them will do the same to you as well. Better than sucking them in but yet another plus for the backpack model.

>>1274572

Might as well get the 125. At least you aren't raking and you save enough to give it fuel and drink some beers at the end of each shift for quite some time

[Anonymous No.1274688]

>>1274643
i wear button up shirts and it managed to suck in the corner and rip about half the buttons off. had to cut the shirt to free myself then take the cover off and get it all out. was a real pain in the ass

[Anonymous No.1275753]

>>1265921
Those bars are a little long for those saws... next time you replace them go a little shorter, especially on your top handle. I think you'll be pleased with the results.

Then again your probably a pro too so I know where my 2 cents can go

[Anonymous No.1275754]

>>1265955
If you're trimming from a ladder then you don't know what you're doing.
If you really want to do it yourself get a climbing saddle and a couple lanyards. Besides, tree climbing is the best part of the job.