QTDDTOT/SQT

[Anonymous No.1221714]

Old thread is past bump limit.

Has anyone used pic related on tie rod ends or ball joints? If used properly does it not damage either part? And do you think this is better or worse than the types where you turn a bolt to press the part out?

[Anonymous No.1221718]

>>1221714

And I'm not asking about chinese quality; that's the first image I found that showed the driver. I'm asking about impact technique and whether it beats the hell out of your parts.

[Anonymous No.1221730]

link to old thread >>1207858

[Anonymous No.1221835]

So I take computer class at a school and I've been asked to start a DIY lab at the school I teach. Students will make use of all the junk and waste from stationary, computer parts, construction material, office supplies etc What tools and materials might a teenage brat need to keep himself busy? Any archived threads which might help?

[Anonymous No.1221838]

So I take computer class at a school and I've been asked to start a DIY lab for the high-school students. Students will make use of all the junk and waste from stationary, computer parts, construction material, office supplies etc What tools and materials might a teenage brat need to keep himself busy? Any archived threads which might help?

[Anonymous No.1221844]

>>1221714
I've used the manual type of pickle fork, with no issues at all. In my experience the air powered impact hammer beats the shit out of everything. Just get the manual type and hit it with a hammer.

[Anonymous No.1221867]

>>1221714
Get thos and man the fuck up. Get pressed at a buddy house or descent shop for 10 bucks.

[Anonymous No.1221868]

>>1221844
Yup.

Air is sometimes more trouble than it is help

[Anonymous No.1222046]

Hello. I inherited a property with a four car garage and a house. The house was built in the 1840s, and has seen better days. The garage however is a solid structure, with a 15' x 12' room completely empty within it. While renovating the property, I am going to be living within this room in the garage.

All the planning, and construction has gone well, planning things a few days ahead of each step. I've run into a pickle however. The garage itself has a low pitch, which is fine but I am running into a lot of conflicting information about insulating a low pitch roof.

I have had a few ideas and I will share each of them. The initial idea was so cover the exposed joists with 7/16 osb, call it a ceiling and blow in open - celled insulation about 6" deep, leaving a pocket between the insulation and sheathing. I read this may cause my sheathing to become moist and squishy causing quick rot.

My second idea was to spray in closed-celled insulation foam like Walmart or other retailers with giant flat rooves do. $700 for R48 value across 180sq/ft ceiling 6" deep, and I would omit the osb sheathing on the ceiling, saving some cash.

Lastly, since that cost is ridiculous for the closed celled foam, I figured maybe I would do a 1-2" thick closed cell spray on the under side of the sheathing, then do blow in insulation between the ceiling the closed cell insulation.

I'm so confused about all this bullshit in regards to thermal pockets, and the liking. The garage does have soffits, the room has two outer walls and the soffits are at the top of one of them.
I don't not care about the legality of the situation, this is not a perminate arrangement. I am doing this, I am simply asking which way I should go about this.

[Anonymous No.1222098]

Does anyone have any experience with learning an instrument on your own?

Inherited a piano from my grandparents, and it's just sitting in my family room not doing anything expect being a very large ornament.

Any tips, resources or websites for learning piano?

>excuse me if this is not the correct place to post this

[Anonymous No.1222121]

>>1222098
>>>/mu/

[Anonymous No.1222134]

>>1221714
There's a kind you can get that's puller style and you just line it up then tighten with a ratchet till it pops. It makes it a perfect breeze and does no damage. Like $15 at HF. Would recommend.

[Anonymous No.1222142]

>>1221714
Don't use either method. Learn how to use two hammers to remove ball joint and tie rods.

[Anonymous No.1222150]

I need to take a 6"-ish square hole out of the side/corner of a concrete slab, probably only about 15" of actual cut. Not renting a saw for that and it would probably be too big anyway. Am I stuck cold chiseling or is there a better way? Pic not related.

[Anonymous No.1222188]

>>1221714
I worked in a shop and did suspensions every day. This was my most used tool, and it saved a ton of time and effort. Noisy as hell, but super effective and never once borked a joint. get it, and put your hammer away forever.

[Anonymous No.1222193]

>>1222098
If you have a musical bent, if you ever played anything besides the radio before, it is entirely possible to do it yourself. Google is your friend, but you'll go from finding middle C, to scales, to chords, all the while learning to read music. You can also just bang it out and maybe learn something, but good luck with it. Anon is correct: at least try /mu/. The actual musicians there aren't bad.

[Anonymous No.1222215]

Greetings /sqt/

I'm planning pic related Z carriage for a 300W router head, intended to carve ply and acrylic in a larger machine. the router carriage is mounted on threaded rod (maroon) mounted between two 8mm bulkheads (blue), driven by a stepper via timing belt. the whole thing is mounted to 4mm plate (green) with two linear bearings mounted horizontally on the back (grey) that sit on appropriate X axis rails. The whole mechanism will have 190mm of travel in total.

Before I finalise this and start getting quotes, does this seem legit or doomed to fail? I'm a little worried about the belt, I planned on using 7mm but worry it might be too narrow, otherwise it seems solid to my eye. I considered gears, but that adds complexity, plus I would imagine belts would be a little more resilient to swarf.

Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.1222239]

Any tips on drilling through some sheet metal indoors without leaving shit everywhere? I just need to drill one hole.

[Anonymous No.1222245]

>>1222215
>Before I finalise this and start getting quotes, does this seem legit or doomed to fail?

I do see a significant issue:

There is very little keeping the head from being tilted back and forth. You're relying on the torsional rigidity of the nut assembly to prevent this, but they aren't going to have much to begin with. The rods won't, either, for those distances.

You need that base to be longer, which will greatly reduce the leverage the cutter/workpiece have on the nuts/screws. Otherwise, that head is going to flex along the X axis direction, and a lot.


Made the same mistake on my first CNC router, except it was the Y-axis bearing rails that were too close. Way too much slop/flex because of it.

[Anonymous No.1222247]

>>1222239

Metals drill pretty clean. Only tip I have is to drill through a couple layers of folded up rag on the sheet. Machinist's trick to help keep holes in thin stock from going triangular on you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HOxfZKIZQk

[Anonymous No.1222291]

>>1222247
Do they still tend to go triangular with a step drill?

[Anonymous No.1222303]

>>1222245
Would it be plausible for him to mount one rail on either side of the router itself instead of both on one side? The rails would have to be further apart and horizontal instead of vertical, but it would surely be much more rigid, especially if he uses particularly tall rails so they can't flex up and down as much. I'm not a CNC guy and I don't think "rail" is the right lingo, btw.

[Anonymous No.1222310]

>>1222291

No, step drills make a good hole without any foolery.

>>1222303

He could, but then the wobble happens along the Y-axis instead. The geometry really needs to be such that any would-be angular misalignment of the cutter would result in as large as possible of a linear/angular displacement of the bearings. The more the bearing would have to move for a given amount of misalignment, the less misalignment (and flex/lash) you'll actually get from what play is in the bearings/rails.


"Rails" is correct, BTW. Or at least, it would be, if he were using actual bearings instead of making the screws do double duty. It's just short for "linear guide rails".


By the way, while it can work, I'd personally not go the "use threaded rod as guides" route. Chinese linear bearings aren't terrible (and they're way more dimensionally accurate than all-thread) and very cheap. I don't think it's worth the extra wear and inaccuracy just to save $20 on something like this.

[Anonymous No.1222340]

>>1222310
How about quad rail then, with the router in the middle?

[Anonymous No.1222343]

>>1222046

Does this require it's own thread?

QQ

[Anonymous No.1222370]

>>1222245
I did consider installing rods for the router carriage to slide on, like yellow in left of pic related, but wasn't sure how tight the rod/nut interface would be, and assuming the rods would be overkill cut them for simplicity.

I considered X axis backlash when setting up the Y axis bearings; hard to tell from the pictures but they are 80mm apart at their centers. The machine they were removed from utilised them in this orientation, they feel quite tight on simulated X loading (reads, yanking it around with my hands)

I hope this addresses the concerns raised in >>1222310. But again, the leadscrews (in whatever form they take) felt like they would be the greatest play risk, hence this question.

>>1222303
Did you mean like right of pic related? Considered, but the original design I posted seemed a little more compact, plus it greatly simplifies driving the threaded rods. As you can see, any drive mechanism I deploy would need to leave clearance for the router to lift. And I can't build too high, I have limited headroom in the cabinet I am building this into.

>>1222340
Far too complex for the task. If you were going to go to that kind of mechanical complexity, you may as well make a proper sliding bed carriage and call it a day. If I wasn't space constrained that is exactly how I'd be doing it.

Do we concur at least that belt drive is a safe option then?

[Anonymous No.1222372]

>>1222370
>play risk, hence this question.
..and to finish that sentence, "I guess I should be looking at reinstalling rods then?"

[Anonymous No.1222382]

Mechanic here...strike this area with a small 3 lb sledge about 2 or 3 times and the tie rod will fall out of the steering knuckle. Remove nut first of course....the tools you show often will tear the grease boot

[Anonymous No.1222383]

Mechanic here...strike this area with a small 3 lb sledge about 2 or 3 times and the tie rod will fall out of the steering knuckle.....
Remove nut first of course....the tools you show often will tear the grease boo

[Anonymous No.1222385]

*boot

[Anonymous No.1222386]

Mechanic here...strike this area with a small 3 lb sledge about 2 or 3 times and the tie rod will fall out of the steering knuckle.....
Remove nut first of course....the tools you show often will tear the grease boot

[Anonymous No.1222741]

/diy/ What are corner joints like picrelated called? (scale is maybe 1.5-2" sides on the top, material is stainless or maybe even nylon would be okay)

[Anonymous No.1222793]

World's worst handyman here. How would you suggest I reattach this towel rack hanger onto my bathroom wall?

[Anonymous No.1222794]

>>1221868
>>1221844
They rip up boots
I use one of these first if I can, cheap and work really nicely. If I cant fit it in then I will go for the fork.

[Anonymous No.1222799]

>>1222386
>strike this area with a small 3 lb sledge about 2 or 3 times and the tie rod will fall out of the steering knuckle.....

You work on different caliber of cars than I do... by the time that tie rod ends need replaced the salt has turned the knuckles into pure orange rust. Half the time you have to saw the nut off

[Anonymous No.1222807]

>>1222386
ball joints on cars from the north aren't that easy. Worked well enough on my new f150 when i was installing a lift, but for 15 year old shitboxes that have seen as many winters - it's impossible to release without the proper leverage.

t. functionally retarded.

[Anonymous No.1222816]

>>1222793
Okay, so, that type of ceramic holder is meant to be supported by a piece of hardware that screws into the wall. It looks like whatever tard did the job basically just glued it on there. This is bad. This is also the reason it ripped off in the first place.

>How would you suggest I reattach this towel rack hanger onto my bathroom wall?
Repair the wall and the finish. Find the right piece of hardware and secure it to the wall properly. Hand the holder on that hardware.

[Anonymous No.1222833]

>>1221714
Is the wire in my picture really enough for a Hobart handler 190? 230V 30A breaker is what I'm running for the circuit.

[Anonymous No.1222844]

In the US, do electrical codes apply the same to detached garages as they do dwellings?

[Anonymous No.1222846]

>>1222844
of course not, they only apply in places that are governed by the laws of physics.

[Anonymous No.1222848]

>>1222793
is there a stud under the mud?

[Anonymous No.1222850]

>>1222844
i'm no electrician, but i do know that there are some differences, like having to separate your ground and neutral to an actual ground. Can't run ground back to neutral line. That's all i've heard of though.

[Anonymous No.1222855]

>>1222846
Thanks!

>>1222850
I really was just curious about things like having to use conduit rather than just running my wires up the wall and through the ceiling to the breaker box. I'm still minding the important ones like wires size and breaker amperage, and there is no water line to the building so no conflict there. Pic related is what I'm dealing with, no conduit, no clamp thing on the box, etc.

[Anonymous No.1222864]

>>1222816
I see what you mean. I'll see if I can find the right piece tomorrow. Thanks.

>>1222848
I don't think so.

[Anonymous No.1222867]

>>1222855
Depends on the code where you are.
But for a garage or shed that's fine where I live.
There should be plastic staples every so often to keep the wire tidy.

[Anonymous No.1222868]

>>1222867
Oh. and conduit is normally used for individual wires (not sheathed).

[Anonymous No.1222874]

>>1222855
learn to bend EMT. super easy and cheap. Nice cover for snoopy inspectors too.

[Anonymous No.1222884]

>>1222874
Chances of inspectors are pretty slim right now. But things are cityfying here little by little. Got fucked over a few months ago while buying my water heater at Lowes, they wouldn't sell it to me without my address because they had to report it to the city, for no other reason other than I had to pay the city thirty dollars to install my own shit. They didn't even inspect anything, just took my money for "code". Guess that's why I'm slightly concerned. Also, if you have any input on >>1222833 that would be great.

[Anonymous No.1222886]

Would you guys recommend using wood hole saws to cut aluminium sheets? The sheets are about 1-2mm thick.

[Anonymous No.1222887]

>>1222886
Should be fine, it'll be some kinda cutting steel or carbide or shit. Go slow, use oil.

[Anonymous No.1222891]

>>1222098
YouTube will be of help I learned French horn and trombone off it.

[Anonymous No.1222908]

>>1222887
Alright thanks, some WD40 should work, right?

[Anonymous No.1222919]

>>1222908
Yeah, it'll work fine. You're mostly wanting to keep the heat down, so something that'll boil off as the heat builds up is great, especially something that won't contribute to oxidizing the steel in the hole saw. If you're making a habit of it, get something good instead of WD40, which isn't good at anything, it's okay at everything. Even just Oatey thread cutting oil from the local big box store for $7.

[Anonymous No.1222933]

>>1222793

if you try to use any kind of hardware, you'll likely break the ceramic piece. those type of bars are meant to be glued in place, usually with silicone, and usually glued onto tile.

[Anonymous No.1222943]

What would be the best way to drill sideways?

I have about 5 inches worth of clearance and need to drill some metal. I hit it with a punch, but the drill bits start to walk since I am drilling at an angle. My drill is too big, and the only thing I can think of is buying a right angle drill.

Do those flexible drill attachments work? Like for the Dremel?

Pic related.

[Anonymous No.1222945]

>>1222239
I believe I read using Vaseline or grease to keep the shavings on the drill bit.

[Anonymous No.1222946]

>>1222943
Dremel to start it, or right angle attachment for a drill, or a real right angle drill.

[Anonymous No.1222951]

How do I install this straight? Is there anything to keep it from just spinning freely other than the tension of the nut clamping it down?

[Anonymous No.1222952]

>>1221714
An air tool like that is nice if you work in a shop where you use it multiple times a day. However, for less frequent or home use, a manual set of pickle forks and a mallet or small sledge hammer are just fine. Also consider the cost of an air compressor and all the accessories that go with it.

[Anonymous No.1222957]

>>1222951
The hole it fits into should be a slot, not a hole.
The flats on the side of the lock threads are what keep it from spinning.

[Anonymous No.1223010]

Got two questions, but I don't think it warrants a thread either way. 1) How do I sell scrollsaw projects legally? The situation is that I get my patterns off google images, resize and fit to project, cut out and usually change a few details to make it work out. Now are there any ways I can get fucked for selling that project?

I also was thinking last night, would a wooden knife make a good first carving project? A walnut blade and a pine handle carved down is what I wanted to make, but I'm a complete newfag to carving. I can google tools and shit needed for it, I have a mora kniv and sandpaper at the moment.

[Anonymous No.1223019]

>>1222943
use a torch moron

[Anonymous No.1223023]

When designing and building furniture, when do you need gussets? How do I design something to be rigid without slapping braces absolutely everywhere? Thinking about wood, nails and screws -- nothing fancier than maybe a bridle joint.

[Anonymous No.1223025]

>>1222943
Use a smaller drill bit that stays in the punched dimple?

[Anonymous No.1223162]

Does this board have memes?

[Anonymous No.1223166]

>>1223162

no. we discuss things like tools and paint.

[Anonymous No.1223179]

>>1223162
This is a completely serious board, go elsewhere.

[Anonymous No.1223217]

Do 2mm screw terminals exist? I have a pcb with 2mm pitch holes and wondered if it would be better to just solder the wire or get the terminals.

[Anonymous No.1223220]

Anyone have some horseshoe welding ideas? Got 36 left

[Anonymous No.1223228]

>>1223220
>Anyone have some horseshoe welding ideas? Got 36 left

lol weld into what? sounds like fun unless still on a horse.

[Anonymous No.1223233]

Can a household hair dryer replace a heat blower?

I need to replace the back glass of my phone and don't want to pay through the nose for what I can do myself. To do this I need to heat up the original, broken back glass to make it flexible. Here's a how-to video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ihw5N2brQ_4

Can I do it myself with a hair dryer?

[Anonymous No.1223265]

>>1223220
>weld a handful of horseshoes into a cross
>paint black
>sell to horse women for 30-50 bucks a piece

[Anonymous No.1223266]

>>1223233
>Can a household hair dryer replace a heat blower?

No, heat guns blow much much hotter
With that said, a hair dryer should loosen the adhesive on a cell phone back just fine.
I probably wouldnt trust a heat gun because of how hot they get, scared of damaging the phone

[Anonymous No.1223268]

>>1223266
>heat guns blow much much hotter

only if they draw more watts, or amperage in /pol/ speak

1800 watts is 1800 watts

god I hate rich shits.

[Anonymous No.1223269]

>>1223233
hair dryer isn't going to be anywhere near as hot as an actual heat gun or hot air rework machine

The hair dryer should, however, heat the thermal adhesive up enough so you can remove the broken glass eventually and you won't have to worry about melting any plastic or damaging the internal parts of the phone with a hair dryer.

[Anonymous No.1223271]

>>1223268
hair dryers are made for drying hair, they don't get hot enough to easily melt people's hair or seriously burn them

Regular heat guns can easily melt solder and burn the FUCK out of you if you hold it in one spot for just a few seconds

[Anonymous No.1223273]

Does anyone here work as a machinist? Would you recommend it as a profession? I took a welding course, but it's not really something I want to do for a living and now I'm searching for career options.

[Anonymous No.1223281]

>>1223271

no no and no.

if both say XXX watts then both are XXX watts, into your hair or your PCB.

[Anonymous No.1223282]

>>1223273
My friend is a manager for a machinist shop
Nobody does manual machining, you are paid to check shit with calipers and press a button.
They hire from temp companies and pay minimum wage.

I dont see how its really much of a career anymore, especially seeing how things will only get more automated as time goes by.

Get a technical degree working on automation bots or solar shit.

[Anonymous No.1223283]

>>1223281
Hair dryers generally peak at 130-140 degrees F

Heat guns usually reach at least 1000 degrees F

[Anonymous No.1223284]

>>1223273
>I'm searching for career options.

machining is ok but not like it was in WW2

most of that is done by slaves in china these days.

[Anonymous No.1223286]

>>1223283
>Hair dryers generally peak at 130-140 degrees F
>Heat guns usually reach at least 1000 degrees F

lol. you think hot air guns do temp.

they do watts.

not the same.

[Anonymous No.1223287]

>>1223281
Not that other guy but
>being so fucking retarded to think that energy consumption = overall heat of the two

Have you looked into the end of a heat gun?
Big ceramic block insulating the heating wires near the end of the gun which is then coned down into a smaller hole to increase the heat.

A dryer has a big hole with bare heating elements with no insulation.

Good job

[Anonymous No.1223289]

>>1223286
>lol. you think hot air guns do temp.

Yeah, they usually specify how hot each setting gets in conjunction with their wattage.
Its like youve never owned a heat gun or a dryer

[Anonymous No.1223295]

>>1223289
>Its like youve never owned a heat gun or a dryer

lol it's like you did not take physics.

[Anonymous No.1223296]

>>1223295
did your physics teacher skip insulation and efficiency?

[Anonymous No.1223297]

>>1223295
So, what if hair dryers blow a significantly larger volume of air through them vs a heat gun?

What if hair dryers have heat sensors in them that limit air temperature to 130-140 F by turning on and off the heating coils to prevent people from severely burning themselves?

Guess what, both of those are true.

[Anonymous No.1223370]

>>1222046
plz hlp

[Anonymous No.1223394]

>>1222833
Having run my first few welds, the answer is yes.

[Anonymous No.1223433]

>>1223268
>1800 watts is 1800 watts
WE'RE BACK, BABY!

Aside from that, surprisingly hair driers have power ratings in the 0.8-1.8kW range, while I've never seen a soldering hot air gun rated at higher than 500W, which just goes to show that power is not directly correlated to temperature, but rather heat output. A normal paint-scraping hot air gun however has a similar power output to a hair drier, but since it will burn your scalp when a hair drier will probably not, I think it's a safe assumption that hair driers have thermostat switches inside to keep them below a certain temperature.

They're all made for different things, so their thermal efficiency and air speed will all be different. In any case, you probably can't hurt your phone with a conventional hair drier regardless of the wattage, but I wouldn't put a heat gun anywhere near one.

Also pic related, hot air station with temperature select.

[Anonymous No.1223435]

Hey guys I could use a tool or method for finely thinning printer paper. Have a thicc on me

[Anonymous No.1223438]

>>1223435
what are you trying to make? the obvious solution would be to use thinner paper. You can print on lots of different types of paper with a bit of prep work

[Anonymous No.1223448]

>>1223438
I appreciate your response but I just need to know if there is a tool or method that isnt just "use thinner paper bro"

[Anonymous No.1223454]

>>1223448
you could maybe sand it with very fine sandpaper or scrape it back with a razor blade but it's not going to be neat or consistent. I've worked in art supplies and stationary stores and never heard of a tool for this. Maybe another anon has a better suggestion.

[Anonymous No.1223455]

>>1223435
Maybe wet the paper and compress it a bunch, then hang it out to dry? It would probably become somewhat brittle though.

[Anonymous No.1223459]

>>1223266
Confirmed, I melted one of my old phones when I was learning to do this.

[Anonymous No.1223472]

>>1222741
bump

[Anonymous No.1223476]

>>1223472
maybe box corners are what you're looking for? or could be modified to fit. Usually they are brass but I think I've seen stainless before.

[Anonymous No.1223530]

>>1222957
Damn, I was kinda figuring that might be the case, was hoping the flats were only to hold it for tightening. What's the proper way to make the slot?

[Anonymous No.1223531]

>>1223472
Gusset or brace

[Anonymous No.1223536]

>>1223530
>What's the proper way to make the slot?
Proper? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKY6PDXVuJA
Alternate, cheaper, more difficult? Drill undersize and file to shape.

[Anonymous No.1223649]

>>1223265
I like where your head is at.

>>1223228
Naw, pic very much related.

Cleaning them with evaporust has been meh. Only getting down to a very worn black color. Welded up one shoe and a broken half last night. Whallah. Coat hanger or door knob. Looking at wine rack and a beer holder for tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.1223685]

>>1222150
Drill holes on the border of the cut

[Anonymous No.1223712]

Can sandblasting remove electrostatic/epoxy painting?
I have old cabinets I want to repurpose as a desktop, but they are in a fugly rat grey.

[Anonymous No.1223763]

I have a 12 amp electric lawnmower that runs off 120V. The manual says a 12 gauge 100 foot extension cable is the maximum length. Would I be pushing it if I chained a 12ga 100ft with a 14ga 25ft or is this not a big deal? I tried to do the math to figure out how much more heat would be dissipated but I'm a retard.

[Anonymous No.1223815]

Got some crawlspace dry wall with some.weird black marks on the surface. Best photo I could get, any idea what is?

[Anonymous No.1223828]

>>1223815

probably either mold or mildew. Try wiping it with bleach. If it's mildew it should disappear. I'm not really sure what to do with mold.

Don't wipe down a whole room unless you have good ventilation and wear gloves. People say household bleach is not harmful but if you have it on your hands long enough you'll see tiny red dots that look like blood, or at least that has happened to me. the bigger effect is just breathing too much of it; be sure to have plenty of fresh air or take lots of breaks.

[Anonymous No.1223837]

>>1223763
Probably fine. Make sure the 14ga is the cord closest to the lawnmower. Just test it and see, the three possible bad options are the cords overheating and catching fire(test worst-case, just hook em both up and coil them in one spot as much as possible while cutting a thick area of grass and have some way to check temp, even just someone sticking a hand in the pile of cable), or the motor drawing too many amps and overheating(watch for smoke and check for funny smells), or the motor not receiving enough power and struggling. Longer/thinner cables=more resistance=lower voltage=less power or higher amperage to compensate(volts*amps=watts, how much go-juice it has).

[Anonymous No.1223839]

>>1223763
>that runs off 120V.
so what does it run on? gas? doesn't need an extension lead.

[Anonymous No.1223846]

>>1223837
>the motor drawing too many amps and overheating(watch for smoke and check for funny smells), or the motor not receiving enough power and struggling. Longer/thinner cables=more resistance=lower voltage=less power or higher amperage to compensate(volts*amps=watts, how much go-juice it has).

oh dear. another carpenter giving electrical advice. You kinda know what you are talking about, but if the voltage drops, there is no electrical motor in the world that can draw more current "to compensate" for the low voltage, so the motor cannot "draw too many amps and overheat".

the web agrees with his manual: " If your tool load is between 10 and 15 amps and the length of the cord is 50 to 100 feet, you need a 12-gauge cord to safely power any tool." In other words, don't use the 14 gauge cord. The extension cables are not going to burn up, because both can handle 12 amps; running your mower off of low voltage might cause problems; maybe it just won't mow well, and maybe it will damage it.

[Anonymous No.1223918]

What hearing protection do you recommend?

[Anonymous No.1223921]

>>1223918
I use cheap North Mustangs, I've had them for years and really like them.
Work as well as much more expensive ones I've worn while shooting guns with friends and family.

[Anonymous No.1224019]

>>1221714
it will wreck the grease boot if that's what you're worried about. i suppose if you have to disassemble for something then reuse the part.
>>1222142
guy i worked with did that and one of the hammers exploded. should never hit two hardened steel hammers together.
>i still do it anyway. gotta do what you gotta do
i'd suggest using a harbor freight hammer as the one you hit. it kinda deforms so it won't shatter like 2 high quality hammers.

[Anonymous No.1224021]

Can someone give me a quick rundown on painting over glossy paint, do I really have to sand this shit? Can I just prime?

[Anonymous No.1224023]

Is it possible to install self-clinching nuts using a vice? Instead of getting a press that is.

[Anonymous No.1224047]

>>1223921
What if I'm around loud sounds? Say saws, pressure washer or air compressors?

[Anonymous No.1224051]

>>1223918
The $10 over ear ones that I got at HF work better than the expensive ones I bought for shooting.

[Anonymous No.1224059]

I know I have seen what I'm looking for before, but I cannot for the life of me remember what they're called. They're a caster wheel that has a spring in it, so when you put weight down on it they push down and some rubber stoppers on the thing the wheels are mounted to can't move.

I'm sorry if that doesn't make any sense

[Anonymous No.1224061]

>>1223712
pls respond.

[Anonymous No.1224064]

How the fuck do you solder to this shit? The internet is only telling me how to strip and solder to insulated ribbon (like rainbow, PATA ribbon), I cant find shit on this though

[Anonymous No.1224067]

>>1224059

[Anonymous No.1224068]

>>1224061
Sandblasting can remove anything. The answer is yes.

[Anonymous No.1224069]

>>1224067
Awesome! Thank you so much anon!

[Anonymous No.1224070]

>>1224021

Depends on how glossy it is - if we're talking pic related then it's mandatory. From personal experience with your average glossy skirting and such, get the sandpaper out if you don't want to have to redo everything because you were a lazy motherfucker from the get-go.

I suppose that the only absolute requirement for any paint job is a clean, dust/particle-free surface, but if you do a shitty job of prepping the surface you'll get a shitty result if it sticks at all. You could try a damn good primer and whatever cheap top coat is available in the colour you want. If you're really determined to do the bare minimum, the chalk paint that's all the rage for DIY kitchen and furniture renovations these days is popular because it does a pretty good job of adhering without any sort of initial priming. Different brands give different coverage, some are more likely to show brush strokes and it's just expensive in general. It's not particularly durable so don't seal with wax if you do use it, use a poly clearcoat or something.

[Anonymous No.1224071]

>>1224068
Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1224087]

>>1223918

I have the ones in your >pic related. They're bretty gud. Dropped them loads of times, still haven't broke. Replaceable ear pads if you somehow use them enough to wear them out.

[Anonymous No.1224149]

>>1224047
That's what ear muffs are made for, it's really not that hard to max the NRR .
More expensive ones don't work better, they are just made to be more comfortable and last longer

[Anonymous No.1224259]

>>1221714

Any ideas for what I could do with an old mini tv monitor? I don't want to buy an hdmi to rca converter, or else I'd attach it to a chromecast.

I thought it would be interesting to maybe install it into the new center console I'll be fabricating for my car, but now I have no idea.

[Anonymous No.1224265]

>>1224259
Throw it away

[Anonymous No.1224313]

>>1223166

>put a shot of black
>i'm such a professional

Well memed my friend.

[Anonymous No.1224344]

Is it feasible to construct a jammer that can drop a phone call 20 feet away?

[Anonymous No.1224356]

>>1224344
Yes, but it's cheaper and easier to buy one already made, from China

[Anonymous No.1224358]

>>1224356
I haven't been able to find those the last few years :(

[Anonymous No.1224372]

My house was built in 1898 and i'm fairly certain there are original hardwood floors underneath all the other shit. I want to restore them to their former glory. My neighbor said he "doesn’t think they are anything special" (it used to be his dad's house) and was sort of warning me not to do it.

If there is any kind of wood down there and i sanded and stained it, wouldn't it look good? Or is there a risk it is some shitty thing that could never look good? If i pulled up some carpet and posted a pic here would that help?

[Anonymous No.1224382]

>>1224372
I'd bet the hardwood is nice enough. Then again I hardwood is my favourite flooring.

[Anonymous No.1224390]

>>1222794
Seconded. A pickle fork will always rip the boot on the joint coming out. Normally this doesn't matter, since it's going in the scrap bin anyway, but a puller works better (when it works).

[Anonymous No.1224407]

>>1224358
Dealextreme had them still, about a month ago, haven't looked recently

[Anonymous No.1224413]

>>1223266
>>1223269
idiots

>>1223233
Yes. I've done it before.

[Anonymous No.1224434]

>>1224413
What kind of hair dryer is going to blow out >1000 degrees Fahrenheit?

[Anonymous No.1224454]

>>1224434
Any consumer grade model will produce at minimal 2,500oK

[Anonymous No.1224482]

>>1224454
That doesnt answer my question

What models will even output 150 farenheit?
Oh thats right, literally none of them

[Anonymous No.1224487]

So in giving attention to my backyard I want to fix up the deck and put on an add-on to more easily access the clothesline. I've never done anything with a deck before.. How do I do this.. I've never put in a fence before so no experience in installing a 6x6 into concrete.

thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.1224543]

hello im doing some painting by myself but im having some troubles covering a wall which was somewhat dirty. the original wall was a very light yellow and the new color is white. Is it normal that it takes more than 3 hands to get an uniform color?

[Anonymous No.1224550]

>>1224543

there's only 2 possibilities: (1) it's normal coz you see it happening with your own eyes, or (2) it is abnormal because arcane malevolent magical forces are causing it to happen to drive you mad.

obviously the second possibility is the most likely.

[Anonymous No.1224551]

>>1224543

there's only 2 possibilities: (1) it's normal coz you see it happening with your own eyes, or (2) it is abnormal because arcane malevolent magical forces are causing it to happen to drive you mad.

obviously the second possibility is the most likely, so getting someone to exorcise the wall should be your immediate next step.

[Anonymous No.1224556]

>>1224551
>Any consumer grade model will produce at minimal 2,500oK
>>>
> Anonymous 08/08/17(Tue)21:50:00 No.1224482▶
>>>1224454
>That doesnt answer my question
>What models will even output 150 farenheit?
i thought that most painst worked with 2 coatings and maybe i was doign something wrong

could it be that white paint is harder?

[Anonymous No.1224570]

>>1224556
That's one hell of a post, friend.

[Anonymous No.1224574]

>>1224556
>i thought that most painst worked with 2 coatings

Depends on the quality of the paint, also white is the hardest to do

[Anonymous No.1224579]

>>1224574
>white is the hardest to do
That's why the pros add a shot of black...

[Anonymous No.1224636]

>>1224579
but don't you get gray then?

[Anonymous No.1224643]

>>1224636
Adding a shot of black is a /diy/ meme.

[Anonymous No.1224648]

>>1224643
I'm reading about it on the net and it says it improve covering, also that this "meme" has existed for decades

[Anonymous No.1224649]

>>1224636
>but don't you get gray then?

technically yes, but if you paint the entire wall, ceiling, whatever, nobody will look at it and see gray, but they will marvel at how well you covered the old dingy paint with only one coat. On the other hand, if you only paint part of it, almost anyone can look at it and see that part of it is more gray than the other part. Our eyes are excellent at seeing contrast when two colors are adjacent. Here is a test that takes a minute or three:

http://www.xrite.com/hue-test

t. a real pro

[Anonymous No.1224650]

>>1224649
for a normal latex paint, how much black tint in the mix?

[Anonymous No.1224651]

>>1224650
>how much black tint in the mix?

Well, lots of the people here say it's nonsense, but in my neck of the woods it actually is called "a shot of black", and they actually do write "B-1" on a gallon. I suppose it is the smallest amount of tint they can add, but that's bullshit because at one point the paint store got new equipment and all the formulas changed from one scale to another.

whoever scored 128 on that test is either legally blind or they took forever to put them all in the wrong order.

[Anonymous No.1224652]

>>1224649
my other option is to just keep applying coats till i get a good result, right? i already applied 3 coats and im under the impression taht it will take at least 3 more. is this normal?
could it be something else wrong im doing?

the wall, altough quite dirty in some parts was originally white so this should play to my advantage in theory, right?

[Anonymous No.1224653]

>>1224652
>i already applied 3 coats and im under the impression taht it will take at least 3 more. is this normal?

No. Assuming you are not trollin, it appears that something is bleeding through. For example, latex paint usually will not cover ball point pen ink, because it dissolves the ink rather than covering it. Also water stains and smoke stains usually bleed through latex.

Paint the entire surface with a stain blocker like Kilz. No paint job should ever take more than two coats to change a color, with the exception of some bright colors like yellows, reds, purples.

[Anonymous No.1224654]

>>1224653
>Paint the entire surface with a stain blocker like Kilz.

Or, heaven forbid, it's tobacco smoke residue. We once tried to paint a house where two chain smokers had spent decades turning every surface yellow-brown.

After at least five coats including two Kilz and one of shellac, we gave up and told them to replace the sheetrock.

[Anonymous No.1224657]

>>1224654
>Or, heaven forbid, it's tobacco smoke residue. We once tried to paint a house where two chain smokers had spent decades turning every surface yellow-brown.

my chain smoking father for 10 years maybe? allegedly he quit after his surgery but i have strong suspicion that he didn't.

the wall has lots of recently repaired patches with plaster, but those should be covered fine right???

i'll try to upload a photo if i can.

Also i painted the edges with a brush first and the rest with a roller(ceiling first then walls) but the brush strokes are MUCH more visible than the roller paint.


also, there was a patch of rust on the ceiling that i was advised to paint over with enamel paint first to prevent rust from flowing trouh. I did that and that patch is showing trough the latex also.

[Anonymous No.1224659]

>>1224654
also, thanks for all the info you've dispensed so far

[Anonymous No.1224660]

>>1224651
>whoever scored 128 on that test is either legally blind or they took forever to put them all in the wrong order.
i got perfect score on that, does it mean anything?

[Anonymous No.1224661]

How the fuck do I get that shit out? The screw snapped in half inside the "receiver." It's for holding in a doorhandle.

[Anonymous No.1224677]

>>1224649
Why does it say that the best score is -2147483648?

[Anonymous No.1224681]

>>1224677
the test is easy as fuck, literally how can anyone get anything worst than 0

[Anonymous No.1224689]

>>1224681
>>1224677

I must be half-blind or my monitor sucks, because it's hard for me. It's too late or I'd delete the link.

[Anonymous No.1224691]

Imma try again after I've been up for a while.

[Anonymous No.1224700]

>>1224681
>>1224689
I think my MacBook retina's monitor is particularly good, that probably has something to do with it.

[Anonymous No.1224703]

>>1224681
It's probably the quality of the monitor. On my Dell Ultrasharp it's super easy while on my 12 year old TN monitor, it's noticeably harder.

[Anonymous No.1224708]

>>1224703
Might want to add, while on the older monitor, it was noticeably harder and I was much less confident about my answers, I still got a perfect score multiple times.

[Anonymous No.1224711]

How can I make a T-link for this? Without a T-Linker-Piece, because no shops around me have them in the right size...
Does not need to hold much pressure, just needs to be waterproof

[Anonymous No.1224791]

is a MacAllister circular saw good? looking at my local craigslist equivalent for cheap, used circ saws...

[Anonymous No.1224881]

How would you attach these bottles to give them added stability?
I've considered using some type of adhesive to connect them to each other or to a shelf but I'm not certain how well that would work, and I don't want to do anything that would noticeably change the look of the bottles.

[Anonymous No.1225078]

>>1224881

there's nothing artistic about booze bottles. it just screams ''alcoholic'' to most people. you can get a nice canvas painting for $10 at the thrift store.

[Anonymous No.1225081]

I have a dremel and a cordless drill (piece of shit can't hold a charge even while charging).
Can I cut wood.

[Anonymous No.1225082]

>>1225081

the dremel has a tiny circular saw attachment, but given that you cant afford a $2 wood saw from the dollar store, it's not likely you're gonna buy one for $30. so, short answer is ''no''.

[Anonymous No.1225120]

What does /diy/ know about concrete, particularly in life-sized statues?
Does this warrant a thread of it's own?
I'm looking for pointers, and have a few ideas of how to go about it.

[Anonymous No.1225220]

How would i go about polishing a knife to a mirror polisj, i assume sandpaoer but what grits? I have flitz for tarnish removal but not sure what would be needed for a mirror polisj

[Anonymous No.1225355]

>>1225082
Where does one find a $2 wood saw. Walmart and home depot only have 15 and up.

[Anonymous No.1225438]

>>1225355
I think he was exaggerating, but if you really don't want to pay more than $10 for the most useful woodwork tool in the shop then I don't know what you're doing here.

[Anonymous No.1225441]

how can i look at stuff on pinterest without an account

[Anonymous No.1225444]

>>1224711
weld together a BIC pen into a T link that fits inside the tubes, then tape the shit all together so it stays in place

[Anonymous No.1225454]

>>1222386

This is what I always do.

If you have an air hammer, just pound on the same area with a regular blunt bit, will do the same thing the expensive pickle fork set will do.

I don't use pickle forks at all actually, they actually take way more hammering than just hitting the knuckle, and yeah they usually rip the rubber boots all to fuck.

[Anonymous No.1225618]

>>1225355
>Where does one find a $2 wood saw.

like i said: the dollar store. it's like $1 for a monkey wrench (awful quality but useable in a pinch), $3 for a hacksaw (but you can get 5 hacksaw blades for $1 so if you wrap them in tape, you can use them by hand), $2 for a multi-tip screwdriver, $1.50 for a nice precision screwdriver set, $2 for a set of allen keys, $2 for pliers or wire cutters.

Youtube review: $1.00 Dollar Store Saw ANGRY REVIEW (HD)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUFJq4l8ph0
(reviewer guy's an idiot - tried to cut a metal pipe with it)

[Anonymous No.1225712]

>>1225618
>(but you can get 5 hacksaw blades for $1 so if you wrap them in tape, you can use them by hand),

Was state prison as bad as they say?

[Anonymous No.1225719]

>>1224677
You must have been the first almost-underageb& to take it.

[Anonymous No.1225739]

>>1225454
>I don't use pickle forks at all actually,

What's your preferred way to separate two tie rods? (sorry if that's the wrong term, but my truck has a similar connection that is not on a solid piece, so the hammer technique seems like it would not work).

Also, I've never seen pic related in a store, so I have bought the kinds where the bolt directly presses. Are these better or worse, or about the same? I'd guess that these might work in some tight places where the other won't fit.

[Anonymous No.1225740]

>>1225739

This set also has the other type. Next time I'm at Harbor Freight I'll look for this.

I know most of you despise HF, but their automotive tools seem to be well made in my experience, and cost about 1/4 of the same thing anywhere else.

[Anonymous No.1226057]

I got a drawer full of scrap fabric from old clothes. Various colours, material, age and shapes. I thought of making a patchwork hammock from them. Of course seeing as it's going to be that patchwork, the stitching has to be strong enough to support my 74kg ass so I thought why not do a double layer? Would that be strong enough to not rip?

Good idea or doomed to failure? Will I need homogeneous fabric?

[Anonymous No.1226075]

>>1225739
Like an older style inner tie rod on linkage steering type?

I just do the same with a air hammer, hammer around the centerlink or wherever the tie rod is attached too.

Another trick I use for really tough ones is to thread the nut on, then hammer on the nut sideways, then hammer down on the knuckle or whatever the joint is pressed in. They usually fall right out then.

I don't even fuck around with actual hammers, as I'm weak and it takes a pretty hefty blow to knock a tie rod loose, pickle fork or no.

[Anonymous No.1226126]

do these work on brick?

is there an alternative that would? i need to temporarily hang a painting on the side of my house just long enough to take a few pictures and don't really know what else to look for

[Anonymous No.1226139]

>>1226126
if these can work on tile I bet they would work with brick, just make sure you clean the surface first.

[Anonymous No.1226146]

>>1226139
Tiles are glossy, bricks are coarse, you'd probably only get 1/2 – 1/4 the effective contact area. But those things are pretty sticky, so you might be alright.

[Anonymous No.1226309]

>>1226126
>do these work on brick?

not in a million years.

>don't really know what else to look for

see pic

[Anonymous No.1226513]

Is rubber cement reliable for a long lasting and heat resistant hold? I am looking to recover the rear shelf of my car, behind the passenger seats, and eventually install a couple of speakers. The shelf is exentially a fiberboard material, and what I have to cover it is black vinyl "blackboard fabric".

Speaking of which, how can I get out the last crease in that vinyl. The material was at the end of the bolt, so one crease has stayed persistently.

[Anonymous No.1226515]

so i have an ikea lamp that uses pic related. I want to wrap pink duct tape around the bulb to try and alter the color for that dank A E S TH E T I C. is this safe or will it start some fire or release mustard gas or what?

[Anonymous No.1226524]

>>1226515
>I want to wrap pink duct tape around the bulb to try and alter the color for that dank A E S TH E T I C. is this safe or will it start some fire or release mustard gas or what?

Probably will release fumes you don't want to breathe, could eventually burn, and will not last long.

And I'm not even going to ask where you get your pink duct tape from

[Anonymous No.1226529]

>>1226515
Hippies use nail polish. I suggest you do the same.

>>1226524
Assuming OP has what he has posted, It's a LED globe, they don't get hot.

[Anonymous No.1226644]

I'm resporing an antique wooden briefcase, and I am wondering about adding corner guards. Pictured is the main latch, am I correct to assume its nickel plated brass? I am looking for corner protectors to add once I have finished, but I don't see nickel plated brass but rather nickel plating on steel. Should the difference matter to me?

The briefcase was already in bad condition, a friend of the family had used it since he was young to carry schoolbooks and other stuff decades later, I'm not doing any harm.

>>1226513

Bumping this too for interest.

[Anonymous No.1226767]

>>1224487
It's not structural to the majority of the deck, so just dig out like a foot deep by a foot wide hole where you want your posts. Mix some cheap ones concrete and pour it 2/3 of the way into the hole then shove the post in and top off the hole with concrete to make it level with the ground. If your hole is too big you can brace your post vertical with a coat hanger

[Anonymous No.1226782]

>>1226515
real pros would add a shot of lamp dip, aka bulb dip or fucking 'light bulb paint' for the literal minded:
http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/overview/1201031/Light-Bulb-Paint
that should be good for anything up to ca. 60w incandescent, filtering (which is basically what you doing) LEDs - YMMV. As noted, LED should be cold enough that glass paint would also work, be slightly dubious over nail varnish tho, and definitely so on non-LEDs (Hippys having Special Deal with The Gods whereby they can paint bulbs and hang 13 tons of shit over lamps without hellfire appearing) and definitely not tape over bulbs, of any description - you deserve mustard gassed for that idea alone, you retarded fuck.

[Anonymous No.1226793]

>>1226515
Looks like an LED, if you stick to the frosted part of the bulb and if it isn't a too-high wattage model you should be fine. Watch for it getting hot, but on my LED bulb I can touch the tip of the bulb and it only feels faintly warm. It gets hot at the base though, damn shitty power supplies promising higher luminous efficacy without taking into account the heat output of the power supply, and the shitty power factor.

[Anonymous No.1226860]

I'm trying to cut this shape out of a piece of wood. It's on a 30 degree angle.

The mitre saw is okay, but I have to use this janky set of blocks to prevent it from cutting in to far.

What's the best way to cut this shape out without blowing out the back, and without having to buy a table saw?

I was thinking a scroll saw might work, but I really need the lines to be straight.

[Anonymous No.1226862]

>>1226860
Y'all know what? I'm an idiot.

I'm just going to do it with a dovetail saw and a chisel. Disregard.

[Anonymous No.1226863]

>>1226860
Table saw sure would be easy to do it with
You could shim out with sacrificial wood on your miter saw, then chisel it out.

I would probably just use a pull saw and chisel if I didnt have a table saw though, itd be easiest

[Anonymous No.1226947]

I am living in a poorly constructed old wood house that is decaying. Are there any good resources, books, videos, etc for learning about theories of construction and architecture, so that I could have a good basis for DIY fixes?

There is so much that needs to be fixed that I don't even know where to begin without building up a better knowledge base.

[Anonymous No.1226954]

>>1226862
Use a sharp knife to outline the shape on both sides, give you a cleaner finish

[Anonymous No.1226988]

>>1222098
I'm an intermediate banjo player. Took an 8 week communal class for $150 and then have been working through books and lessons for the past year by myself. Just become truly curious and goof around a few minutes every day.

>>1222833
My Hobart 210 is currently on a 15 amp 110v circuit. I haven't died.

>>1223394
Purrty. Looks like a stack of dimes.

>>1221714
What's the legal situation of picking up rusted railroad spikes and metal left to rot on the side of the tracks and use them for welding projects? I'm the horseshoe guy.

[Anonymous No.1227009]

>>1226988
>What's the legal situation of picking up rusted railroad spikes and metal left to rot on the side of the tracks

Forgiveness is more easily obtained than permission.

Giving you permission would imply it was OK for you to be on the tracks.
They will never do this.
If you don't ask and are confronted by railway personnel, apologize and promise to stop doing it.

[Anonymous No.1227011]

>>1226513
Rubber cement is good for bonding rubber to rubber, not vinyl to fiberboard. Your best bet is an upholstery-grade contact cement, since it's designed to deal with the heat. I was able to bring an empty paint tin into a local upholstery place and get a gallon from their giant container for like $30. Since the vinyl won't be fighting gravity like a headliner, I imagine standard 3M contact cement should suffice.

As for the crease, I ran into this issue when I was doing my dashboard. You can place it over a flat hard surface and heat up the area with a heat gun. Then get another hard flat object or a gloved hand or something to "iron" the spot. You can heat both sides or tug on it lightly for better results. Don't tug too hard, or you'll cause a stretch. Also, if you heat it up too much, you can ruin any texture in the vinyl. Good luck!

[Anonymous No.1227051]

>>1227009
More or less what I was thinking. I'm more concerned with a young go-getter cop. I've seen articles where people are procecuted, but mainly looks like those that were doing it for scrap.

[Anonymous No.1227069]

Not exactly /diy/ but does anyone know what the deal is with Etsy and selling things based on licensed properties? I've been dabbling in selling lasercut stuff for a while and I'd like to crack into the nerd market with some Star Wars/Trek stuff but I have no idea how likely I am to get shut down.

[Anonymous No.1227212]

>>1227069

it's like selling pot, your chances of being served are very much random. and the bigger you are, the more likely it is as more people means more potential snitches.
now that di$ney owns $tar War$, you can expect maximum surveillance.

[Anonymous No.1227363]

Anyone know epoxy really well? I want to make a rod of epoxy around a length of thin rope, maybe .5cm thick rope with the total rod being 1cm diameter when it's done. How long of a length of this would I be able to suspend horizontally from one end without it breaking?

[Anonymous No.1227370]

How can I cut round corners in steel using a jigsaw like pic related?

I make drums: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rc7KJOuAidE

I like the aesthetic of rounded corners and it would also save me the time of having to make three starter cuts per key with my dremel to get my jigsaw blade in there. Ideally with round corners I can only make one starter cut and just go all the way around.

[Anonymous No.1227395]

>>1227370
Was just talking to a buddy about this. He said it might require a router. Anyone use a router to cut shapes into steel like this?

[Anonymous No.1227412]

Just got into 3D printing and getting stuff printed that I designed in some CAD software works well.

But that's just plastic. How about metal? I know there's services to cut sheets of metal into forms you need. But what if I need more complex forms, for example a small metal skull or bottle?

[Anonymous No.1227435]

>>1227412
Sintering machines

[Anonymous No.1227440]

>>1227435
Fuck me that's cool. I just saw that it's also one of the categories offered on 3dhubs. Perfect, thanks.

[Anonymous No.1227470]

Anyone have much experience with Kwikset smartkey locks?

There's a longer backstory here, but tl;dr I replaced five locks to Kwikset keywells. Manually rekeyed one, and used the smartkey tool on the other four. Three of the four smartkey locks work flawlessly.

When I went to rekey the last one, it went normally. I tested the lock only to find that literally any kwikset key worked in it. When I tried again to reset it to the proper key it locked up completely. Now nothing unlocks this lock.

What are my options short of buying a new one?

[Anonymous No.1227477]

>>1227470
Ive used the smartkey, they were installed in the house I bought. All of mine worked fine.

I guess its not new enough to call kwikset and claim warranty on it?

If it were me, I would pull the cylinder out and dry lube it and see if you could get it set to a key.

[Anonymous No.1227479]

Any tradesmen here have favorite work pants, besides jeans? I need to pick up a lighter pair, like cargo pants/khakis. Think I might get a pair with those pockets for kneepads.

[Anonymous No.1227653]

>>1227479
Carhartt is the 'go to' clothing for all trades in my area

[Anonymous No.1227659]

>>1221714
They can work IF you have serious air pressure or do what I do for heavy jobs and run them off a CO2 tank with a fixed pressure regulator (Western make nice ones at 150 and 200 psi) but you are in my experienced opinion better off with some single piece forks and two hand sledges or large ball peins.

First, use the hammers simultaneously on either side of the hole you want to remove the rod end from after loosening, but not removing (unless it's junk) the nut. That normally vibrates the taper joint apart and is the best way to salvage both parts intact. Forks eat dust boots.

Since you are asking about not hurting either part I must assume you are wanting to salvage ball joints etc.

The forks, pneumatic or manual, are really for separating parts where you intend to replace the rod end/ball joint.

I've done countless removals in salvage yards and at home. I don't even know where my pneumatic pickle forks are and don't consider them worth the bother.

Solid forks, two hammers. Portable, no dragging air lines, no compressor needed.

Large beastly pneumatic hammers will promptly split (most) connections but they aren't cheap.

[Anonymous No.1227662]

>>1222134
Those work on non-horrible joints so if doing very recent vehicles with small joints aren't bad.

Best way for stuck ones is preload with the puller then use hammers to vibrate the joint.

[Anonymous No.1227667]

>>1221844
>>1221867
>>1221868
>>1222134
>>1222142
>>1222188
>>1222386
>>1222794
>>1222799
>>1222807
>>1224390
>>1225454
>>1226075
>>1227659
>>1227662

OP here. Awesome number of tips that cover a lot of territory. Thanks everyone.

[Anonymous No.1227874]

Anyone know how I can check how well expanding foam will fill a mold without just just doing it? I got Moldflow Adviser but it only does injection, not expanding foam

[Anonymous No.1227902]

Hello sqt. I'm trying to build a robot design that uses bearing balls as essentially weird battery contacts. I was wondering if anyone had any input on the types of materials that would be suitable for the bearing ball contacts. For example, one of the first results on amazon is chrome plated steel. But when I started looking into how electrically conductive that material was, I found many people saying it depends on how it was plated.

This website seems to imply a few kinds of stainless steel and carbon steel can work as battery contacts.
>http://www.newcombspring.com/battery.php

I've looked at a few websites that rank common metals based on how electrically conductive they are, and to my surprise steel (in its many varieties) ranks not just a little lower than say copper or even aluminum, but significantly lower. Yet it seems people can still use them as battery contacts. So should I just bite the bullet and buy stainless steel or carbon steel bearing balls?

[Anonymous No.1228104]

>>1227902
I assume you need the ball bearings because it's moving and the bearings will bridge the gap between two surfaces? The actual contact point will be tiny, so it would be equivalent to a tiny gauge wire, and the movement would make it arc and spark, eroding the material.

[Anonymous No.1228133]

>>1228104
Not to mention getting galvanic potentials between differing metals, whatever that means.

[Anonymous No.1228147]

>>1227902
look at slip ring contacts, should be what you are looking for.

[Anonymous No.1228180]

>>1222247
I don't know anything about metalworking, why is the hole so fucked?

[Anonymous No.1228206]

Fridge is leaking in the back where the hose clamp is, but there seems to be a good connection.

This feeds the ice maker. Any idea how you'd troubleshoot it? I got an automotive clamp to replace the current clamp, but am afraid of crushing the plastic. Decreased the freezer temp and no success. Ice is full and not fugly.

[Anonymous No.1228305]

Can i use a round peg (flattened on one side, in a tusked tenon?

[Anonymous No.1228321]

>>1228133
It's basically how a battery works. Two dissimilar metals, usually assisted by some kinda conductive juice, will make an electrical charge as it corrodes the metal.

[Anonymous No.1228340]

>>1228180
Because twist drills are trianglur

[Anonymous No.1228394]

>>1228104
Yeah, a joint is exactly what I was envisioning. Unfortunately, the batteries are going to be lithium ions and the whole spark and eroding thing has made me nervous, which sucks because that design was going to save me a lot of space. Maybe I'll just use universals instead...

>>1228133
>>1228147
>>1228321
Thanks for the responses guys.

[Anonymous No.1228452]

>>1228206
>leaking in the back where the hose clamp is
The fill tube is probably iced up so the connection is under pressure when trying to fill the tray.

[Anonymous No.1228454]

>>1226988
I've done it countless times and have gathered about 80 of those giant nails. The great majority by autistically checking every single one and then praying them off by hand.
Pic related.

[Anonymous No.1228491]

New to woodworking, where should I be getting wood for building simple wooden furniture? I usually get boards from Home Depot, but its hard to find unwarped pieces. The only saw I have is a mitre saw.

[Anonymous No.1228625]

>>1228452
I guess. Thing is it dethawed completely a month ago. It's currently at 3/10, so I would think it wouldn't be that frozen

[Anonymous No.1228626]

>>1228625
>It's currently at 3/10
How's it been, John Titor?

[Anonymous No.1228630]

>>1228625
>dethawed
>thaw: to pass or change from a frozen to a liquid or semiliquid state; melt.
de: a prefix occurring in loanwords from Latin (decide); also used to indicate privation, removal, and separation (dehumidify), negation (demerit; derange), descent (degrade; deduce), reversal (detract), intensity (decompound).

[Anonymous No.1228660]

>>1228630
Just got the damn thing a month ago from my in-laws. Seems dumb it'd freeze after a month of service at a low setting.

I think I can get a torch back there.

[Anonymous No.1228671]

>>1228660
>I think I can get a torch back there.

I'd be careful using a torch to thaw it; be careful or you'll ruin the whole thing.

[Anonymous No.1228672]

Searching for a specific name to a wood carving knife with two handles that allow you to use it pushing/pulling against the wood.

The one at this moment in the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05_iInqB7uI&t=136s

[Anonymous No.1228675]

>>1228672

I can't watch the video but it might be a spokeshave

[Anonymous No.1228686]

>>1228675
That was it, thank you.

[Anonymous No.1229008]

How can I remove dried latex based wood filler? It was applied to a wood surface that is old and I don't think very duraply for any heavy scraping.

I've heard basically I could just use a razor blade and super fine wet/dry sandpaper. But other sources say to prep with mineral spirits? Given that the wood filler is applied to an old fragile item is that okay, and does mineral spirits leave a residue in the wood?

[Anonymous No.1229009]

>>1229008

I've also heard maybe even using xylene, but that doesn't jive to me.

[Anonymous No.1229015]

>>1224651
I got a score of 2 (male,30-39)

[Anonymous No.1229049]

>>1224677
>Why does it say that the best score is -2147483648?

Integer overflow, its coded really shitty.
Look at all the other overflows happening to others, its like they didnt even test it before they slapped it on their site.

[Anonymous No.1229050]

>>1224703
>It's probably the quality of the monitor

Its easy to see on my IPS, lot harder to see on my TN. Its going to throw a lot of people off

[Anonymous No.1229126]

>>1229049
That's not just bad coding, it's a literal broken feature. Not that it needs to be a feature, it's hard to imagine that nobody would try and get as many of them wrong as possible, and that nobody would get a perfect score. They're essentially guaranteed to be showing best as the max, and worst as the min. It would be better if they showed a statistical distribution instead.

[Anonymous No.1229200]

I had a hook screwed to the en suite door but it was loose when I moved in and just fell off when I put my bathrobe on it. The screws don't bite anymore and I'm wondering if there was any easy way to get it fixed. Door is hollow as fuck. Would ask flat owners to do it but I'd rather have it fixed while I'm still alive.

[Anonymous No.1229227]

>>1229200
Hollow doors are basically cardboard, screwing into it isn't really an option anywhere but the edges. Get some 3M command strips and a hook that you can install with those.

[Anonymous No.1229420]

>>1222833
AWG 10 is good for 25ft@30A more distance at less current there's a chart for guage distance and Amps

[Anonymous No.1229425]

>>1228454
I like how you arranged them like corpses in a ditch during a genocide.

Nice touch.

[Anonymous No.1229439]

>>1224649
I'm mildly colorblind and got a score of 2. How?
Every online test I've done shows I have moderate deuteranomaly.

[Anonymous No.1229466]

Is it safe to operate an incinerator on an apartment balcony?

If I were to build one myself, would a can nested in a much larger can with sand packed around it offer sufficient insulation for a nice high temperature burn, if there is also a vent at the bottom and the top is partially or wholly covered?

Is it possible to burn hot and/or cleanly enough that minimal smoke is produced?

Would it be feasible or safe to use the heat produced to do things like melt lead, soften or warp plastics, or even run a little generator?

[Anonymous No.1229469]

>>1229466
Oh, also, would waste ashes that could have been produced from treated papers, plastics, etc. be suitable for use in spreading in a garden or use in a primitive water filter?

[Anonymous No.1229550]

>>1229420
I'm glad it's good, I've been using the welder nearly nonstop for almost two weeks now.

[Anonymous No.1229552]

>>1229466
No. Get a better job and move.

[Anonymous No.1229554]

>>1229552
I have an okay job, I'm just young and don't have capital. YET

[Anonymous No.1229564]

>>1229554
If you have any kind of decent job you can rent a house with a small yard in the country.

[Anonymous No.1229570]

>>1229469
treated papers and plastics would likely create toxic ash
I wouldn't put it in MY garden.

[Anonymous No.1229572]

>>1229564
>rent
>house
kys

also i very much value how close I live to both my work and my various places of play

[Anonymous No.1229588]

>>1229572
You're too much of a poorfag to buy a house, so rent one. You know what, just get the fuck off this board instead. You'll never contribute anything of value. You think renting a shithole apartment is better than a house, so you're obviously mentally deficient, so you won't learn anything either. There's no purpose for your presence here, shew.
>muh close to duh city
Further proving you have a shit job.

[Anonymous No.1229604]

>>1229588
>being this mad over someone else's life decisions

[Anonymous No.1229752]

Hey guys, I'm trying to repair a solid state amplifier, but I'm not too versed in electronics. The only problem is the input jack was loose on the board, so it should have been very simple to fix, but when I tried to resolder the lead, a small circle piece came off the board, exposing whatever is underneath the green stuff on top. I'm not sure how to deal with this, because when I tried to solder it anyway, it wouldn't work. What is this circle thing and how can I fix it?
Thanks

[Anonymous No.1229774]

>>1229752
>What is this circle thing and how can I fix it?

can you show us a nice clear photograph or three?

[Anonymous No.1229824]

>>1229774

[Anonymous No.1229827]

>>1229824
and note that this was already off before I tried to fix it, I'm not just ripping shit out willy nilly

[Anonymous No.1229830]

>>1229824

if you can scrape down to bare copper in that green trace without destroying it then you can solder it back to that pin, which is all the "circle" did. It looks like there is plenty of open space in case you need to use a tiny segment of copper wire to help bridge the gap once you finish exposing the trace.

[Anonymous No.1229836]

>>1229824

and an alternative if that is difficult is to follow that trace to another solder joint if there is one, an jumpering the two pins instead of using the trace.

[Anonymous No.1229888]

>>1229824

[Anonymous No.1229905]

>>1229888

nice plan.

do eet.

show results.

[Anonymous No.1229917]

>>1229752
>>1229824
>>1229888
Mate I'm pretty sure you've taken the pad off and fucked the board, not even joking.

[Anonymous No.1229920]

>>1222370
check open builds

[Anonymous No.1229923]

>>1229917
>Mate I'm pretty sure you've taken the pad off and fucked the board, not even joking.

troll be gone. lifted pads/traces are not disaster.

[Anonymous No.1229930]

>>1229923
We scrap them at work

[Anonymous No.1229936]

>>1229830
>>1229836
>>1229888
>>1229905
Thanks guys this worked perfectly, unfortunately I already put the amp back together without taking a picture but I appreciate the help

[Anonymous No.1230000]

>>1229888
Neat plan, I'm adding that to my library of kludges.

[Anonymous No.1230314]

Is it even possible for me to get a job as a machinist or other similar, with negligible skills no education.

[Anonymous No.1230321]

>>1230314
>no education.

obviously you can read and type.

but no, you cannot in general get a highly skilled job without any training or experience. go to school, community college, or whatever they have in your area. join the military if need be.

[Anonymous No.1230342]

>>1230321

Its not so bad as I made it out to be, I am thankful for what I have. I just don't know where I'm going, so maybe even a confusingly winding road is better than the one I'm on?

I do have a BA, but unfortunately what networking I had been doing became worthless right around the time I graduated, and I could have realized it even earlier.

I need to move out of state and professionally, but I don't know what to do.

>join the military if need be.

I would but I know I'd be ineligible, and I can't expect to become eligible soon.

[Anonymous No.1230344]

>>1230314
no, the best you can do without years of experience and legit knowing your shit is pushing buttons on lathes at a massive company staffed by foreigners and youll hate it

[Anonymous No.1230345]

What should I get if I want to cut some wood now and then for DIY projects?
Either a circular saw or a miter saw.
With the funds I have to spend I can either get a good brand's decent circular saw or a no-name brand's miter saw. Which should I get?

[Anonymous No.1230349]

>>1230345
>Either a circular saw or a miter saw.

circular saw can cut plywood.

a chop saw makes more precise cuts on the boards it can handle.

circular saw is usually the first or second saw you buy, along with a jigsaw. then the chop saw and table saw and maybe a band saw.

[Anonymous No.1230354]

>>1230349
I thought that as well that the circular saw has more uses, can cut plywood and shit as well. I'm leaning towards the circular saw

[Anonymous No.1230422]

Why were wall air registers phased out in favor of floor registers under windows? Seems like the wall ones are way better at actually getting the air to YOU

[Anonymous No.1230426]

Whats the deal with LED bulbs? Which brand is the one to buy? Phillips? The lights in the ceiling fan in my room are going and I figure it might be time to hop on over to LED's. It's the candelabra base though. Was thinking these https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Chandelier-Equivalent-Decorative-Candleabra/dp/B0191YKS0C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

but enough of the reviews say some of theirs died quickly. Not sure if they're doing something stupid or if it's real.

[Anonymous No.1230453]

>>1230426

philips is a quality brand, however, no matter how good the brand, LED lights need air circulation or they die quickly from heat exhaustion. if the lamp shroud in your fan is air tight, like in the pic, any LED lamp will die prematurely.

[Anonymous No.1230470]

>>1230422
It is entirely up to who is building the unit and what kind of stuff they use. Last place we built the customer wanted wall vents, so we gave them wall vents. Before that, we did ceiling vents because the house was on a slab and the HVAC was on the roof, so it made sense.

[Anonymous No.1230553]

Hi sqt, I'm back for another round of stupid questions. Today I'd like to ask about protecting unprotected lithium ion batteries. Particularly, I'd like to talk about protecting 4 in parallel. So I know you can buy circuits that do this already, but I was wondering about actually doing this myself. Putting thermal buildup aside (I'd solve that later) the problems I see people talking about is batteries discharging too quickly (like they're hooked up to a short), battery balancing where one battery tries to charge another that is lower voltage or malfunctioning (potential short) or drawing a lithium ion battery lower than the 3 volt to 2.5 volt range.

[part 1/2]

[Anonymous No.1230554]

>>1230553
[part 2/2]

So my scenario is as follows. I have a circuit that will supposedly stop drawing current if the voltage fed into it is lower than 2.9 to 2.5 volts. I haven't tested this yet, but for the sake of argument lets say it works. what if I hook up 4 lithium ion batteries in parallel to supply power to this circuit? And what if I put a fuse rated lower than the batteries max sustained discharge in series with each battery? This should mean that if there were any kind of short (including one of the other batteries in parallel) that the remaining batteries would be cut off from the circuit and thus not explode. It should also protect them from any kind of potential overdraw should anything else go wrong which will eliminate the cascade effect parallel batteries suffer from. Now, none of these things solve the battery voltage balancing, so I was thinking of putting a diode in series with each battery and fuse combo so that none of the batteries can charge others. At the same time, this means each battery will suffer a 0.7 volt drop. Thus, one of my fully charged lithium ions at ~4.2 volts will actually output 3.5 volts to the circuit when fully charged. This drop should give me a little safety when discharging the batteries. In a worst case scenario, my circuit cuts the current when fed anything below 2.5 volts. If the diodes 0.7 volt drop is taken into account, this means current will stop being drawn when the batteries are at 2.5v + 0.7v = 3.2v. So I should have them protected from all 3 types of lithium ion abuse.

Sorry if this is a bit long, but I'd really rather not have batteries blow up in my face so I figured I'd include everything. And yes, this is my first time working with lithium ion batteries.

[Anonymous No.1230565]

>>1230553
You won't come across problems with cell balancing between parallel cells unless they're at different levels of charge when you put them together, or if you charge/discharge them quickly enough so that the voltage drop in the wires from cell to cell is significant. Since the latter will never happen without overheating the cells anyway, you'll only come across cell balancing as a problem if your cells are individually removable from the charger, which brings up other problems such as detecting how many cells are present and therefore how much current to charge them with, hence why devices that use multiple cells typically keep the cells internally and have their own charging and protection circuitry.

Now 2.9-2.5V is too low, you should stop at 3.2V. A simple arrangement would be to have some sort of low power, low value voltage reference and a voltage divider from the cell output, and feed them into a comparator that switches off a FET in series with the output load when the voltage across the divider is below that of the reference. You'd do the same thing to limit current, but by measuring voltage across a current shunt instead, but since the FET here will be used like a linear regulator when it's limiting current, it has the potential to be wasting a significant amount of heat, and for this reason it's a good idea to put an overload LED on the circuit to warn you when you short something. The problem here lies with getting a comparator and reference that will run off 3V and use barely any power in standby. The idea of putting a fuse, or current-shunt powered regulator as described above, on each cell is a good one as it stops one cell from taking all the load current if it happens to be different from any of the other cells, but if you bought them all new at once and they're the same model you shouldn't need to bother, especially if you won't be drawing too much current. cont.

[Anonymous No.1230573]

>>1230565
The main problem with the arrangement of individual current overloads is if you plan on using the battery bank when one of the cells is being overladed. In the most extreme scenario, you have cells with different effective capacities, and hence one will draw more current than the others. If this puts the highest-drain cell above the current limit, its fuse will blow, causing the load to be spread among the other cells. If this is too much current for the remaining cells to handle, their fuses will all blow in quick succession. Assuming you use the FET system instead, you'll be limiting the output voltage of each cell to prevent the current from going too high, but doing this will mean some cells will drain to different voltages than others, causing them to want to rebalance themselves as mentioned previously. If you're not planning on giving the cells a hot supper and you picked them from the same batch then this shouldn't be a problem, but if you are I'd give each cell its own current shunt, but have only one FET to limit the total output current until the one overburdened cell is no longer being drained too much, hence keeping all the cells' voltages equal. If you do this, then none of the batteries will ever be drained to different voltages, assuming your current shunts aren't too anaemic, and you should never have current flowing from one cell into another. Now note that by using diodes on each cell you can't actually charge them, and that 0.7V drop is only when you're drawing a significant current; in an extreme example, the diode has a voltage drop of 0V when the current is 0A. So you will be able to drain the cells below 3.2V this way with a current in the order of a few mA. You'll have to calculate using the IV curve of a similar diode and the discharge curve of the cells whether this current will be significant. cont.

[Anonymous No.1230576]

>>1230345
Skil makes a $40 circular saw. It's loud and anything that can be plastic is, but it works. Good circular saws don't get too spendy, the range is basically that one up to around $200 for DeWalt/Skil's nicest magnesium base worm drive. Check Craigslist and OfferUp, you can find modern used ones cheap, or even brand new ones stolen from Lowe's/Home Depot. Spend the money on a good one since you'll never need to replace it.

[Anonymous No.1230577]

>>1230573
Now if it helps, I've never seen any USB battery banks with fuses or current shunts on the individual cells, meaning they're disregarding the possibility of cell misbalancing. And for a total power drain of 10W from at least 5Ah, I don't blame them. The only time this will be a problem, assuming the cells themselves are connected directly in parallel with significantly beefy wires, is if the voltage sag of the cells themselves. Now I think this sag can be solely attributed to the internal resistance, but for this rough situation I don't think it matters. Say you start draining a small current from a couple of cells at 3.8V each, and slowly increase the current until their output voltage temporarily sags from 3.8V to 3.5V. If we assume that the two cells have different capacities, then as the current is slowly increased one cell would be drained more than the other because it has a higher capacity, but not based on its rest voltage. Instead this will be based on its sagged voltage, meaning when we turn off the current suddenly the two sagging cells could easily jump back up to two different levels. If you plan on draining enough current from your system that the sagging of the cells becomes significant compared to the degree at which your cells are matched, then this is something you'll need to take into account. But using 5 cells from an old laptop battery to make a USB battery bank? Don't worry at all.

Now let me just say that the 50c charging/protection PCBs you can buy from ebay will do a better job than whatever you're likely to make, provided you can get one that can limit the correct amount of current for your total cell capacity.

And in case you were planning on using a Zener diode or a bunch of normal diodes for your voltage reference, low voltage Zeners and normal diodes have far too curvy a curve for what you need, and require too high a quiescent current. A normal voltage regulator should work, provided it's accurate. cont.

[Anonymous No.1230581]

>>1230577
Now one way of preventing reverse current would be to put a comparator directly across the current shunts, so that if the potential on any battery's side of the shunt is ever lower than the common after-shunt potential, indicating a reverse current, it turns off the output current limiting FET. Turning off the current for all of the cells at once instead of doing it for each individual cell should be best since turning off a single cell will allow the other cells to change voltage with respect to it, meaning you'll have to put them in a rebalancing jig of some sort. If you don't mind doing this, you could simply put a ~10Ω resistor between each battery before any individual current limiters so that they can charge/discharge each other at a controlled rate after the storm is over. But since this situation will only happen if your cells were under a very high load (or you matched your cells badly), I think wasting that power through an array of resistors isn't a terribly good idea, and you should start considering more professional solutions to your predicament.

[Anonymous No.1230593]

Sup /QTDDTOT/ I got a couple cheapo monitors and a VGA projector, I have a couple questions. With the monitors, is there any way to rewire the monitor's input ports or the actual connector from inside the monitor to accept a digital signal, such as DVI-D or DisplayPort?

With the projector it is a Hitachi PJ-TX10, and it won't stay on for more than a couple of seconds. According to the manual the LED combo means that the fan is not spinning or working correctly. The projector has worked previously. The Power and Temp LEDs flash red. The manual for the projector is here: http://www.hitachi.com.au/documents/dps/PJTX10_manual.pdf
Page 39, the first row of the table is the problem I've already checked the fan to see if there's anything obstructing it and there's not, and it does keep spinning when the projector is on.

[Anonymous No.1230609]

>>1230593
Almost certainly not by rewiring anything, but you can get adapters for pretty cheap. Note that I tried using the cheapest of one of these adapters (VGA to HDMI) and it worked fine with my raspi, but completely fucked up when plugged into my laptop (MacBook).

For the projector I'd first take it apart to see if there's anything suspicious, like dust buildup, shit-stains, pitted ICs, blown caps, or trace corrosion. Check that nothing is getting hot, especially around the thermostat.

[Anonymous No.1230622]

>>1230609
I was hoping I could avoid buying an adapter, but if it works it works. Thankfully the conversion is HDMI -> VGA, the adapters for which seem to be considerably cheaper.

I'll have a poke around in the case when I get home tomorrow and see what I can find.

[Anonymous No.1230627]

>>1230622
>Thankfully the conversion is HDMI -> VGA
Maybe mine didn't work because I had the wrong one...

Anyway, you could always google what's inside one of those things, probably just a beefy IC and some power management stuff, but it isn't simple from what a quick search gave me.

[Anonymous No.1230645]

I got a cease and desist letter from my city for banging on my anvil too much. What's usually a good place in a city I can go and be really loud for a long time (like smacking a hammer on metal for extended periods). Parks are protected, so maybe an industrial area? But that's mostly private property and i'd still get yelled at.

[Anonymous No.1230651]

im new to welding but cant find answer

whats this brown stuff ontop of weld? it wipes away after touching, i looked online and some people said it means not enough gas or, it's just normal when the metal comes into contact with air after weld?
does it mean i need more gas, or is it normal? the welds themselves grind down smooth and penetrated the back, the back side of it is clean and doesn't have it

this is at about 7/L min with 75/25 argon mix, the welder has a thing saying recommended gas flow and it says 5L min for 0.8mm, i turned it up a tad because theres wind

[Anonymous No.1230654]

>>1230651
That metal wasn't coated with zinc was it?

[Anonymous No.1230664]

>>1230654
i dunno, it just said just cold rolled mild steel sheet, it wasn't galvanised but maybe has a zinc coating i dunno, doesn't say anything where I bought.

i grinded the areas welds would be on lightly before welding too though

[Anonymous No.1230684]

>>1230645
If you're in the western US (a longshot I know, sorry) just go out to BLM land. You can make all the noise you want there so long as you aren't too close to a residence and even then it shouldn't matter too much. Tons of people shoot rifles and shit on the BLM so some hammering shouldn't be a problem.

If you live in some urban nightmare then I got no idea anon

[Anonymous No.1230782]

>>1224711
Boil the tubing and force in the closest size if its in the ballpark in the size.

[Anonymous No.1230784]

>>1230651
Goto Weldingweb and Miller welding forums.

No one can teach you all you need in this thread. Miller site has weld training videos free to watch, or you can find them on Youtube, but goto welding forums.

If EUro, migwelding.uk is decent supplement but not even close to Weldingweb and Miller forums.

[Anonymous No.1230993]

I have a plug past the P trap, no snake, "seen on tv" zio strip can't touch it, drain-o did nothing. No wrench to fit the pipes. And plunging caused a pressure based leak. Am I fucked?

[Anonymous No.1231007]

>>1230993
Get out a pipe wrench and go to town until your problem is fixed. You weren't washing molten butter or cornstarch down the sink, were you?

[Anonymous No.1231024]

>>1231007
Is someone going to fix it in his absence?
Is there anything in town in particular he should do or see?
Why do you need him to bring a pipe wrench with him?
How long usually does it take, should he book a hotel in town?

[Anonymous No.1231048]

>>1230993
Remove the P-trap and snake it. Problem solved.

>But, but, I'm a NEET and down own a wrench!
Then acquire a wrench.

[Anonymous No.1231063]

So I bought a half-dead Venus fly trap from Home Depot. It's pretty much full-dead now. Should I remove the black, shriveled guys? Do the two big green leafs mean it's not completely dead? Is there a chance my trap has a second chance at life?
Also, a couple of the lavender seeds I threw took and started sprouting on the bottom left. Cute!

[Anonymous No.1231165]

>>1231063
>Should I remove the black, shriveled guys? Do the two big green leafs mean it's not completely dead? Is there a chance my trap has a second chance at life?

Yes and yes and yes. I once put some moss in a terrarium that happened to have a little stick poking out of it. About a year later one tiny leaf appeared. It took literally another year or two for it to take off, but by about five years it had filled the terrarium and I had to cut it back.

Venus fly traps might not be that robust, but give it a try.

[Anonymous No.1231194]

>>1231165
>Venus fly traps might not be that robust, but give it a fly.
ftfy

[Anonymous No.1231280]

>>1231007
No, I just moved in so whatever it was wasnt me.
>>1231024
kek
>>1231048
Woodworking and small carpentry is my game, dont need a pipe wrench for that, you chucklefuck.

[Anonymous No.1231478]

>>1230565
>>1230573
>>1230577
>>1230581
Thanks for the info man. I probably should have been a bit more specific about my scenario but I wasn't sure it was relevant. So the circuit I'm trying to power is a buck converter to produce 5 volts. As a max, it will take up to 5 amps as input with a voltage range of 2.9 to 5 volts in. I am using this for a robotics application, so running servos and a semi hefty computer (the one I'm looking at runs at shy of an amp under full load with no peripherals) is going to take a bit of power. Thus, I'd like to get the maximum power output from my converter so I can run as many motors as I need simultaneously. In other words, I'd like to be able to feed my converter 5 amps off of the batteries.

My batteries are Samsung 25r 18650s bought from the link below
>https://www.imrbatteries.com/samsung-25r-18650-rechargeable-battery/

I bought them all at the same time from a distributor I've heard good things about. So with any luck, they should be legit Samsung cells and be from the same lot.

So it says the batteries have 2500mAH of power and are rated for 20 amps of continuous current drain. That being said, I decided to use 4 so that my bot could run for a decent amount of time and even if I push my converter to its 5 amp limit, 2 batteries should be able to keep me running for an hour.

From you're posts, I've gathered that I should simply buy a circuit to do both the charging and discharging of the batteries. I wasn't really opposed to this idea, but when I did some googling about it I found the setups to be a bit confusing. For the most part, I just found circuits that monitor a single battery for both charging and discharging purposes. Do I just get one of these for each battery and then connect those in parallel to my converter? Or do I assume the batteries are balanced like one big cell, put them in parallel, and then just put a single protection circuit on that?

[Anonymous No.1231498]

>>1231478
It's a drug.

I'm not really an expert on those pre-made charging/protection circuits, but I'm sure someone on /ohm/ can help. If you simply put 4 cells with individual protection circuits on them then you could run into misbalancing, but if those are legitimate Samsung cells you should be fine.

If you examine the diagram of one of those pre-made circuits you could probably figure out how to calibrate it for your effectively higher Ah rating. It shouldn't be too tough since I can't imagine the circuits from using anything but an external shunt to measure current, though I can't see anything of the sort on circuit diagrams of these chips in use, the current seems to flow straight through the FETs and nothing else. Finding what allows the maximum current is also necessary if you plan on doing this sort of modification, you don't want to blow the FETs.

[Anonymous No.1231819]

I have a garage that we made in the backyard that is open on one side. I cannot block that part with something fixed because I need that open space.

I was using a tarp to block the sun going from that direction but it got caught in a truck and ripped a bit, pic related.

Any option to fix it that does not involve buying another tarp or would you have a better idea to put there? I was thinking about making a folding wooden door but it would take sun most of the day and a bit of side rain, so I don't believe it would last.

[Anonymous No.1232056]

>>1222793
Long drywall anchors

[Anonymous No.1232109]

>>1231819
We have a thread that isn't at bump limit, but that looks pretty wrecked.