High Powered Rocketry

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182331]

Anyone interested in seeing how to build a 3:5 Sidewinder Missile model rocket?

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182332]

>>1182331
As I mentioned, its built at a 3:5 scale. This is because the real sidewinder has a diameter of 5", making the conversion easy to a 3" diameter rocket.

To start, I gathered a shit load of reference material. I'm going to dump this now.

[Anonymous No.1182333]

If you could remove the last two words of that sentence, you would generate considerably more interest in this thread

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182335]

>>1182332
From these blueprints I made equation driven CAD files in solidworks. I mean to ever last feature. They were lost when my solidstate drive crashed recently or I would upload them for you.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182337]

>>1182335
The main files are based on an AIM-9, however the rocket design pulls from several different missile models due to a lack of files/photos.

>>1182333
maybe, but fewer watch lists this way.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182339]

>>1182337

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182340]

>>1182339

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182341]

>>1182340

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182342]

>>1182341

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182344]

>>1182342
sidewinder-nose.gif shows a top down view of the nose of a sidewinder. This is the part that houses the sensors. The picture is pretty hard to decipher, however a friend has a real one I was able to reference.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182345]

>>1182344
As you can see, the clear lens has mirrors, and all kinds of fancy things inside. I toyed with the idea of casting one with polyurethane, but decided it would be a bit too involved for a purely aesthetic part.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182349]

>>1182345
As I mentioned, I lost all of my detailed cad files. All I have left is a rough screencap from when I was designing the nose. I assure you however, every last detail was mapped out. From bulkheads, to wall thicknesses, etc.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182353]

>>1182349
Once last thing before we start the construction process. The rocket is being built from fiberglass and epoxy. This is a messy job, and you have to do it right. The friend I mentioned earlier, who had the nose parts; is DEEP into rocketry. He has been building them from scratch at a much larger scale for decades. I visited him several times, to both document and help rolling fiberglass body tubes, and making a nosecone. I am using his methods, and attached is a picture of one of my note pages from one of these visits. There were originally videos and photos, but they were lost with my SSD.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182354]

>>1182353
Here are the actual procedures for rolling a body tube. I apologize for the poor handwriting, I was at the same time wearing gloves, and running around working the fiberglass.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182356]

>>1182354
Okay, now all that boring stuff is out of the way, it's time to get my mandrill ready. I followed his procedures for the mandrill.. kind of.

His elaborate lock up and axle system for his was imo unnecessary for building only a few tubes. I used a mailing tube that had a 3" OD, and wrapped it with mylar. The edge is taped with scotch tape, because epoxy won't stick to it. The ends were wrapped with painters tape, and folded over to prevent epoxy from getting behind the mylar.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182360]

>>1182356
I used a couple sawhorses and a piece of old plywood as my table. You want a couple feet of space on one side, where you can lay your fiberglass sheet.

The axle is 1" steel pipe from one of my longer pipe clamps, and it is held up using some garage hooks I had. To lock rotation for indexing, I just used a spring clip.

I prepared my work area as if I was disposing a body. You don't want a single drop of this epoxy to land where you dont want it. Have every tool laid out and ready to go, and have a garbage can ready because you are going to toss about half a dozen pairs of epoxy soaked gloves during this process and you don't want them to get glued to your shoes and tracked around. I even had my disposable scrubs ready to go with a box of gloves. YOU WILL GET IT ON YOUR SHIRT AND PANTS.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182363]

>>1182360
I am using standard 6oz plain weave fiberglass cloth from Raka, with thin, medium drytime epoxy from US Composites. I went with the quart size, and it was enough to make 3 bodytubes with some to spare.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182368]

>>1182363
I forgot to mention, I calculated the amount needed to make 6 full revolutions. When you lay out the fiberglass, DO NOT CREASE IT. Go back and forth and mark with a sharpy on the sewn edge. At the point where you cut, draw the entire way across with said sharpy, and cut with a roller cutter. A knife will drag the cloth and fuck it up.

Anyways, when you do this, follow the procedures I posted above. It should have this sheen the entire way through. If it looks more glossy than this, you have too much excess epoxy. This is ok, because it will soak into the top layers, but mind it.

When you apply epoxy, I first get my brush- a cheap china hair brush; and soak it up with epoxy. I use the side of the brush to dab it on. Start from near the short side of the brush, and roll across, pressing the entire long side into the fiberglass, and rolling off near the other short side. It's hard to explain, sorry if this sounds convoluted.

After Going the entire way across the roll, use your squeegee. Start in front of you, at near vertical and scrape the epoxy up, over, and away from you with your squeegee about 20 degrees off normal. As you come over the top of the roll, push the angle forward so the side of the squeegee is riding on the fiberglass, and use it to push the excess epoxy INTO the fabric. Dump any excess into the pot.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182370]

>>1182368
Here is what the first tube looks like right after rolling. NO GLOSSY SPOTS at this point. Make sure its not sagging too much.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182372]

>>1182370
Here is a close up of the wrap. I can't stress enough how important it is to remove excess epoxy before hardening. It's a bitch to sand.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182373]

>>1182372
Be for warned, I know the background is a disaster... I had an... issue with a shopvac and had yet to clean it up.

Anyways, put a space heater near it to cure. I've seen someone use a oven made of cardboard boxes and a heat gun to do this too. You really want it to be at a minimum of 70 to do epoxy work, but ideally in the mid to high 80s.

Also, you will notice the painters tape is missing at one end. You will remove this once the epoxy is getting leathery. It will literally feel like leather.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182375]

>>1182373
While still leathery, you will need to remove it from the mandrill. If you pull it too soon it will lose its shape, and if too late it may shrink and be impossible to remove from the mandrill. I did it when it was no longer tacky to the touch with a rubber glove, and was still a little pliable. When it is time, the color will start to change to either a green or brown.

Stand it on the end of the mylar, out of the way with a space heater near it.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182377]

>>1182375
The cunts at TAP Plastics, who sell the correct mylar, charge such an exorbitant amount for shipping that you should order a decent amount. This of course means you can make multiple mandrill sleeves and work new body tubes while the others are drying.

Of course, this is all preference, usually the mylar can be reused.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182380]

>>1182377
God damn it, here is the pic I meant to include. As you can see, the second bodytube has been rolled and I am waiting for it to get leathery. In total, 2 should have been enough but I'm incompetent at times and needed a third because of a miscut.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182384]

>>1182380
The fiberglass will still need sanded, but for now we are going to put them on the back burner. You can remove the mylar whenever they are hardened, just pull it out. I use an air compressor with a needle to spray air between the mylar and fiberglass when it gets stuck.

The nose cone is going to be a bitch. The way I've been taught, involves turning a piece of insulation foam as a core, then layering epoxy and fiberglass over it. I experimented with several other methods because the turning method means more work for me; however in the end I had to bite the bullet and do it. Let me explain.

Earlier you may have noticed a lathe in the background of a pic. I got it on craigslist with the understanding that it was frozen up, and missing parts. With of course, no motor. Now, I had it laying around to fix up eventually, but I knew I would have to take it all apart and rebuild it. This means waiting on parts, finding a motor, building a table, yada yada yada. I ended up getting it running for this project, but I rushed a bit to stay on time for the rocket launch. I will have to go back and refinish and build it a table later.

Anyways, to turn a nose cone, I used my cad files to get a profile of the nose cone's contour. I made a jig that mounts directly to my lathe, and has the profile on both sides. This allows you to use a sanding block or files to narrow down to the correct profile by resting the tools on them. To make 2 identical profile templates, I use CARPET TAPE. It is the strongest fucking 2 sided tape on earth, no joke. It's amazing for doing layouts and cutting multiples of parts. To attach my paper templates to wood for cutting on the bandsaw, I use a 3M spray adhesive that comes off easily with acetone.

If you want to see how I rebuilt the lathe, I have a thread right now over here.
>>1181917

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182386]

>>1182384
When prying apart wood held by carpet tape, be very careful. I am not exaggerating one bit about this stuff. Its absolutely incredible.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182389]

>>1182386
Beautiful.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182390]

>>1182389
It is very important that they match, and that you designed your jig around the dimensions of your lathe. You have to ensure that the center of the nose, is at axis of your lathe.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182394]

>>1182390
Assemble your jig. It really only needs some brads so just use a pneumatic nailer to save time. Label it and save it, in case you need to make a new nose after slamming the rocket into the ground by accident.

This is the foamboard you want. Its kind of pricy, but its much more dense than craft foam and works much better as a form for your epoxy. Cut and glue a stack of blocks to act as your turning blank. Many people bore a hole down the center and mount it on a rod of wood. This would allow it to mount better on a lathe, and afterwards, you can drill a hole down its center and epoxy in allthread for weights and a bulkhead. I skipped this because I wanted to make the very tip out of fiberglass instead of a sperate part turned from wood or Al.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182398]

>>1182394
Once again, a wood core makes this much easier to turn. It does depend on what you want as a final result however and my design limited me.

Rough it out first without your jig, on my particular set up, the corners would have it it.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182400]

>>1182398
All I am doing here is knocking down corners. Once its rounded I can install my jig and begin bringing it down. This foam will chip out during roughing, so make sure you dont take it too far down before switching to other tools.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182402]

>>1182400
Get your jig installed and its time to shape it. Mine was designed to fit into the slot on the bed of my lathe, and bold down. This is mainly to ensure it remains parallel with the axis on my lathe, otherwise a clamp on system would work.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182404]

>>1182402
My friend that taught me this, uses a really fancy jig system he made that has a router guide. He uses said router to cut the foam VERY fast... I do not have this jig.

This is going to be misery, it will take forever, but use sandpaper. I used 80 grit to get close and finished with 120 later. Wrap it around a dowel and keep going until both ends of the dowel are sitting on their respective sides of the jig. Make sure they stay perpendicular to the work or they may cut off a bit too much.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182406]

>>1182404
almost there...

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182408]

>>1182406
This process took about 2 hours. It's fucking awful, but I couldnt think of a better way to do it without building an elaborate jig.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182410]

>>1182408
Finish the ends by hand. I have a lot of excess length that will mount inside a body tube. Make sure you use the inner profile for the template, or your fiberglass will be oversized on the nose.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182413]

>>1182410
Taking a break before finishing the nose to mention my motor mount. I got a LOKI Research motor, as everyone I know in the rocketry community prefer them. They fail less than aerotech, cessaroni, and are great when switching to experimental motors. This is a 38mm motor, however I want to be able to fly 54mm level 2 motors later in this rocket, so I will need to make an adapter for my motor mount.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182415]

>>1182413
The tubing for both the motor mount, and adapter is from LOC Precision. They make it the exact right size, and there is no reason to make your own. They also have an adapter kit, which is assembled here with motor hooks. I use 5 minute epoxy heavily for these steps. I literally buy it in bulk, I have hundreds of the two tube bottles. My favorite brand is the Loctite, with a close second being JB weld's brand.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182416]

>>1182415
The motor mount is epoxied in using centering rings. I made my own with a laser cutter at school from .25" birch plywood. Overall the motor mount has about 2 packs of the 5 minute epoxy.

Back to the nosecone. The foam end is shoved into a body tube, and it is wrapped with fiberglass and epoxy. I cut pieces about 4" longer then the nose, and in right triangles. After applying one, rotate the rocket 180 degrees and add another. Then hit both quarter rotations and repeat until there are at least 3 layers on the entire nose. This is tricky, but easier than many people make it out to be.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182419]

>>1182416
Once dry, sand smooth, and patch any holes, gaps, and low spots. during the sanding process, I collected about 2 cups of fiberglass/epoxy dust, and I use it as a filler with my 5 minute epoxy to make a spackle. This is pressed and rubbed into these deformations with a squeegee and sanded smooth. Layer until perfect. The entire body is sanded down to 220.

This is the point at which I regret to inform you my SSD crashed. I lost pictures of the process of cutting fins, slots in the walls of my body tube, and attaching of the fins. I will try and explain the processes.

The fins are all cut from .25" birch ply. the size of mine made it impossible to do on a laser cutter, so instead I printed more templates from my cad files and used the same method as earlier with the jig. Carpet tape, a bandsaw, and belt sander will ensure they are identical.

The front fins were designed so that their tabs would leave a .25" x .25" square hole in the center of the nose cone, which will be used to epoxy in allthread for weights.The tailfins so that their tabs epoxied directly onto the motor mount.

The slots in the sides of the bodytube were laid out using, yes, another printed template. The template is lightly sprayed with adhesive, and then rolled over the body tube to ensure that they are all evenly spaced. They are cut using the cut off wheels on a dremel, which makes short work of fiberglass. I also have a cast saw that is great for this.

Fillets are added on the fins by laying down a bead of epoxy, and using a squeegee to form a concave roundover at the edge of the fins. Sand Smooth.

Here is a pic of the nose cone with fins installed.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182420]

>>1182419
Pic related is the cast saw I prefer.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182421]

>>1182420
Anyways, finished cutting the tubes down and made my electronics bay. To make the couper on the electronics bay, take a section of body tube and cut a slice the entire length. Remove a small section, and compress it to insert inside the exterior body tube. Epoxy in place. This ensures a tight fit.

My electronics bay is empty for now, I am waiting for a launch in Sept. to add altimeters and a dual deployment system.

The airframe is almost done!

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182422]

>>1182421
I'm going for a very boring military paintjob, gray and black.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182423]

>>1182422
Here it is before doing the nose.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182424]

>>1182423
I decided to name it Cerastes, the species name for a Sidewinder Rattlesnake. I used a similar font to what they write the model of the rocket on in real life.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182425]

>>1182424
God damn it 4clan.

The letters are just cut from 3 layers of painters tape with a scalpel.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182426]

>>1182425
You can't prove I was spray painting in my dorm.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182427]

>>1182426
mmm I love that peeling feeling.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182429]

>>1182427
There were a few fuckups on the paint, but the closest most people will ever see it from is 100+ feet away.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182430]

>>1182429
I got the black down, then used several pieces of Aluminum backed HVAC tape to make a metallic looking accent for the nosecone.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182431]

>>1182430
I added a couple more decals to make it more apparent military hardware. (because the nose fins werent enough lmao).

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182435]

>>1182431
At this point, it is functionally all done. To make it pretty I got a lot more reference pictures, including a trip to a local air museum to get close ups of decals. I duplicated every single one of them. The layout is pic related. I tried printing on transparent sticker paper, but the color wasnt opaque enough to be visible. Then I tried iron on trasfers, but it was ugly. I want to get professional decals printed, but it will have to wait until the sept. launch because I ran out of time. Oh well.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182436]

>>1182435
here is the other side.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182441]

Here it is all wired up and ready to go. The rocket is 76" tall, and flying with an H550ST it had a thrust to weight ratio of around 12.5. The Cg was about 1.5 body diameters in front of the Cp, which lead to a very stable flight to approx 350 ft. The next launch will the with a significantly larger motor, and I am anticipating an altitude on that flight around 3000 ft. This was just a warm up flight for it.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182444]

>>1182441
As the video showed, the rocket came down around some trees. The chute deployed about 3 seconds late, but never the less, it worked.

The parachute, if you are wondering, is a LOC Precision 50".

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182446]

>>1182444
Yeah, it came down about 30' up a tree. The main section dangled to only about 20' up, but we couldnt shake it out. Luckily, someone at the launch had a tool used for flipping breakers on powerlines, so I was able to get it down with minimal damage to the coupler on the electronics bay.

Here it is post recovery. It needs cleaned up a bit, some epoxy and fiberglass on a coupler, and it will be ready to retrofit for my level 2 attempt this Sept.

Thanks if you've read this far. If you have any questions ask away, I'll be lurking.

[Anonymous No.1182456]

>>1182331
Pretty cool. A little autistic about the whole make it look just like a Sidewinder thing, but cool. Thanks OP.

[Anonymous No.1182457]

OP is a gun owning racist in our chat. He blabbers on about shooting niggers alot.

[Anonymous No.1182458]

What's wrong with any of that?

[Anonymous No.1182461]

[Anonymous No.1182462]

>>1182457

[Anonymous No.1182463]

>>1182462
He plans on putting explosives in it and hitting the ATF hq

[Anonymous No.1182465]

>>1182331
Jazakum Allah Khayran OP

[Anonymous No.1182467]

>>1182463
See bunch of racists.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182469]

>>1182467
To be fair, I was replying to him complaining about living in NJ.

[Anonymous No.1182480]

>>1182457
Nothing wrong about shooting niggers. That's actually pretty based.

[Anonymous No.1182490]

>>1182457
Well, racism may be wrong but statistics don't lie Tyrone...

[Anonymous No.1182491]

>>1182463
Fbi please leave

[Anonymous No.1182524]

>>1182457
>Waaaaaaa. OP has opinions outside of topic that I don't like.
Go back to Reddt faggot

[Anonymous No.1182591]

>>1182457
Jesus fucking christ your a faggot.

[Anonymous No.1182619]

>>1182331
Why do you need an assault missile?

[Anonymous No.1182715]

>>1182331
Bumping for OP, i like your proyect, i see future Here, just dont kill innocent people, cheers

[Anonymous No.1182722]

>>1182441
Where's the CP on a rocket like this? I've got to imagine it's pretty far forward on account of the forward fins, which seems like a PITA to balance with a model rocket (considering the weight of the engine is so far back, compared to real missiles which are like 60% motor and the remainder is heavy warhead and heavy seeker equipment.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182727]

>>1182722
EXACTLY. The real one has a ton of weight in the nose from electronics and the payload which shifts the Cg. I had to add approx 2lb of lead to the nose to shift my Cg far enough ahead. It was a PITA. Before the weight, the motor would have driven it to about 2700' according to open rocket, after the weight was added it cut the estimated apogee to 400' and I actually hit about 350'.

My next rocket is definitely not going to have forefins, I only went with the sidewinder because after I retire it- it will look very cool hanging from the ceiling in my shop.

If you look at the pic linked below, the Cg is the tape line and the Cp is the dot.
>>1182446

[Anonymous No.1182742]

Breddy cool rocket OP. Did you join a club or something do to the launch, or was it more informal?

[Anonymous No.1182745]

@1182457
@1182462
@1182463
@1182467
>complaining about racism
>on 4chan of all places
Jesus christ. You faggots have so many other places you could go to. Facebook, instagram, twitter, reddit, and every other website that doesn't allow racism.

No (you) for you

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182753]

>>1182742
I am a student at a university and am in the club. That is how I made the connections and I have since designed and built this project on my own. I go through Tripoli because eventually I want to get to experimental rockets, and NAR isn't interested in that.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182769]

>>1182745
It's cool man, it's just this faggot Parker trolling me. He is still coming to terms with his love of all things phallic.

[Anonymous No.1182770]

>>1182727
I myself have been coincidentally messing with rockets over the last week or so, and I've been dicking around with tumble-recovery designs in OpenRocket. I've been wondering if it's feasible to push the motor (and all it's weight) WAYYYYY up in the body tube towards the nose, without the exhaust burning the body tube too badly. I haven't tested it yet though since I don't have a bunch of body tubes lying around.

The reason I want to do this is for the sake of tumble recovery (where the motor's CG has to be like 1-2 diameters AHEAD of the unloaded rocket's CG, with the CP in-between), but maybe it'd be helpful for a rocket like yours where the CP is already way far forward and the only other way to nail the CG is with absurd quantities of ballast on the nose.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1182772]

>>1182770
Well idk. I get what you are saying with the weight balance but at the end of the day you are talking about running motors near the top of your rocket. I don't think it's so much the heat you have to worry about, it's the pressure changes. Fiberglass may be able to take the heat, but the sudden change in pressure? I doubt it if we are talking a motor with a high peak thrust.

You could mount motorS on the exterior of the rocket. At LDRS I saw this done, but it of course means forewings for mounting points, ergo the Cp will be drastically different than with a conventional design.

Fuck man, I think you need to mess with sims a bit and do some ground testing.

[Anonymous No.1182776]

>>1182772
>Pressure
In principle the nozzle brings exhaust pressure much closer to atmospheric, and even if it's still underexpanded, it still promptly equalizes downstream (which is why shock diamonds form in an underexpanded exhaust plume). That and considering that the aft of the tube would be wide-open, and I can't really see pressure being an issue.

Plus maybe you could even cut inlet holes in the side of the body tube and embed an augmentor tube into the middle of the tube behind the rocket for a bit of extra impulse. May not be worth the weight on this kind of rocket though, and I'm not sure they even work that well on short-duration rockets anyways.

[Anonymous No.1182983]

>>1182331
Hello PA kommando

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1183301]

>>1182983
Hello, how are you?

[Anonymous No.1183389]

>>No guidance system
BOOOOORRRRRIIIIIIINNNNNNNG

[Anonymous No.1183583]

>>1182331
Very cool OP, you should make a PDF

[Anonymous No.1183609]

You need to get it going faster and higher before you can hold airlines to ransom.

A good start though OP and its smarter than hijacking.

[Anonymous No.1184054]

>>1183609
kek

[Anonymous No.1184102]

>>1182456

I know a CEO that built something similar but using a exocet as model.

[Anonymous No.1184205]

Can someone explain what the appeal for solid fuel dumb model rockets as a hobby? I'm interested in rocket engines and active systems, but building a tube with fins, shoving a bought blackpowder motor into it, and launching it just seems boring.

[Anonymous No.1184510]

>>1184205
If you think that is all there is to it, there is no point in trying to explain. Ill try though. There is a lot more to designing a rocket than that. You have to run simulations, work on the balance and aerodynamics, etc. You have to then build it, which is a ton of fun for a project. Then for motors, you are just ignorant. First, most motors are actually APCP, not blackpowder. Once you get past L1, you can begin experimenting with motors.

Many people make them with rocket candy (KNO3 + sugars), or their own propellent blends. With the university club I am with, we designed our own propellant blends and characterized them. We are talking about the choice and proportions of different types of metals, the amount of AP, the binders, etc. The grain size and type? what works better with this propellant a bates grain or star or other? etc. At the last sounding rocket contest we went to, a couple teams were experimenting with hybrid and liquid fueled motors.

Yeah, maybe with an A10-3T estes motor and kit from walmart it's boring, but High powered rocketry is entirely different and a ton of fun. Especially once you get into experimental motors and designs.

[Anonymous No.1184560]

>>1182331
Hey, I've wanted to do this too! I have a quarter scale one in my room. I'll take a pic when I get a chance.

[Anonymous No.1184569]

>>1182344
>friend has a real one
lolwut? How?

Since we're on the subject of missiles...
How could you target a drone? They don't really throw off heat that an ir detector could target.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1184587]

>>1184569
I don't know how he got it, and I didn't ask. I'm fairly certain its from an obsolete model.

[Anonymous No.1184590]

>>1182349
I really wished you backed your files up because this would be a great summer project for me.
>>1182354
I can't read that, did you by chance type it up?
>>1182441
What launchpad is that?
I think I'm going to build a lower power version of this.
I have access to a sillouette and am thinking I'll use that to cut vinyl decals.>>1182446
>tool used for flipping breakers on powerlines

Clever. Glad your rocket was recovered and held up.

[Anonymous No.1184591]

>>1182456
>autistic
That's what makes it a model you clown. It's not autistic.
>>1182457
Welcome to 4chan you nigger.

[Anonymous No.1184593]

>>1184205
ADHD call of dooty kiddie detected. It's not that simple and it's rewarding.
Although one day I plan on building one with active course correction. Even better would be able to take out a drone. Never know when that might come in handy...

[Anonymous No.1184594]

>>1184510
Experimenting with motors sounds awesome. And liquid fuel is something I'm interested in.
Where is this club located?
>>1184587
Neat. It's interesting that it needs 3 serial ports.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1184598]

>>1184590
I'm sorry about the files. I lost like 3 years of project files. CAD models, writeups, photographs, etc. ): Literally my most important folders on my computer.

As for the note pages, sorry I was rushing to write it, I'll transcribe at the bottom of this post.

The launchpad is a DIY build at that particular groups launch site. If you decide to build one, the rail is 1010 T slot rail. Thank you very much for the questions.

TRANSCRIPTION OF NOTES:
Part 1.
>-Snip ends of tubes - to get rid of fraying
>do not epoxy last inch or so.
>-cut with roller cutter - not razor blade
>-Store extra fiberglass
>-cover work areas with black garbage bags
>-mandrill is glavanized steel pipe, 1-1.25" with wood disks. Pipe rotates freely on stand
>-wrap mandrill with 1 layer of mylar -.5" overlap
>-seal seam with scotch tape
>-DONT USE PVC!! Buy cardboard from Red Arrow Hobby
DO AT THE ENDS OF TUBE
>blue painters tape at end of mylar, wrapped around end of pipe to lock rotation, and prevent epoxy from getting under mylar - use almost full width on exterior and add second layer to inside. Use short segments on inside to make attaching simpler.
>-set up ventilation before opening epoxy
>50" fiberglass, 60" mandrill.
>Lay fiberglass sheets on your work surface so the sewn edge lines up with edge of painters tape at one end
>pull glass over mandrill like toilet paper, not under.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1184599]

>>1184590
>>1184598
Part 2.
>-use bondo squeegee and roller from US Composites (or similar)
>-start @ a reference line on mandrill. It allows you to keep track of wrap #
>1. Mix up epoxy. - Mix thoroughly, for a min or 2. - dont fear bubbles
>2. Lay on thin layer of epoxy on bare mylar about 3" wide - think so it doesn't run.
>3. Lay fiberglass about one inch past marking line. - at edge. Get the edge lined up -it is less important if the middle sags
>-does not have to be parallel to marked line
>-use brush to "dab/mash" fiberglass down. Do not brush it.
>-Don't worry so much about bunched up edge
>-add epoxy and dab down where dry.
>4. Stipple stiched edge, then brush down. Then roll.
>5. Wet out new section with epoxy on brush, repeat process - then stipple raw edge.
>-keep whole process under 1/2 hours!!
>-watch for fucking bubbles. Bubbles are evil.
>-dont worry about glossy spots, next layers will absorb excess

>>1184594
there are 2 nationwide organizations in the US, NAR and Tripoli. Both have chapters in various cities. NAR do not support experimental rocketry, fuck them. Tripoli is the shit and are an amazing group of educated people in the hobby. The experimental stuff I work on with a club is through my university, and we compete at a collegiate level against various schools, including MIT.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1184600]

>>1184590
>>1184598
>>1184599
I found some of my pictures and videos from when I took those notes, I don't want to upload the videos and pics here because they have other people in them, but if you need any details I can try and edit stills showing said details up close.

[Anonymous No.1184603]

>>1182332
>that tolerancing
I expected more precision out of a guided rocket.

[Anonymous No.1184615]

>>1184205
Solid motors are always more satisfying to watch, whether on a model rocket or a full-blown orbital space rocket. Smoke trails make it so much more spectacular than watching a tiny speck disappear into the sky.

[Anonymous No.1184674]

>>1184603
I'd guess those drawings are meant for designing shit like mounting racks and include thermal expansion, bending, etc.

[Anonymous No.1184678]

>>1182745
>@1182467
>every other website.
you go back there, you're going it wrong

[Anonymous No.1184688]

Very cool, OP. Nice write-up too.

[OP !!0tdkAa3Om6+ No.1184743]

>>1184678
Are you illiterate? He literally said he did it so that person didnt get (you)s.

[Anonymous No.1184997]

>>1184674
That's a good point, makes sense.

[Anonymous No.1185433]

>>1184598
I'm sorry to hear that. My back up habits aren't the best either. Thanks for all your help.

[Anonymous No.1185437]

>>1184600
>I can try and edit stills showing said details up close.

That would be nice. I think YouTube has an automatic blur face feature.
>>1184678
Re read his post.

[Anonymous No.1186658]

bumperino

[Anonymous No.1186833]

I built an Estus Sidewinder for 12 bucks does that count I swear to God it flu like 50 times higher than yours

[Anonymous No.1186874]

>>1186833
Sure, but my max payload is 50x what your entire rocket weighs.

[Anonymous No.1187076]

>>1182745
>@

[Anonymous No.1187362]

>>1186833
Where did you get it for that price?!

[Anonymous No.1187363]

>>1187076
Re read his post you clown.

[Anonymous No.1187478]

>>1182331
Go liquid or go home. I need to at least tickle space to get my rocks off. Solid engines are just toys.

Got this recipe for hydrazine I'm /diy/ing to try out because no one will sell me the stuff. And I got a source for red fuming nitric acid so I don't have to make that.

Ram company makes solenoid valves for hydrazine and nitric acid used in thrusters and shit.

Figure I can just do fully pressure fed, no pumps. Class 2 CNG tanks perhaps. Filled 30% by volume and charged with helium. Interested to see what kind of thrust curve it gets as the pressure drops near the end of the burn.

Kinda scared to ask tripoli what they think of my plans.

How much shit would I get in with the FAA if I launched from the salt flats without a waver?

[Anonymous No.1187496]

>>1187478
>How much shit would I get in with the FAA if I launched from the salt flats without a waver?

I would think that you'd get placed on a few watch lists.

[Anonymous No.1187503]

Why bother with amateur rockets when balloons can go higher?

[Anonymous No.1187515]

>>1187503
Because it's not all about max altitude. There are a lot of technical challenges to solve as you get more and more advanced. It's really fun to do.

[Anonymous No.1187613]

I built this in the summer before I went into 8th grade. I think it was 1998

[Anonymous No.1187629]

>>1187503
balloons aren't dick shaped

[Anonymous No.1187987]

You still here op?

[Anonymous No.1188300]

Thanks for getting me on yet ANOTHER watch list OP.....

[Anonymous No.1188336]

OP is kill...

[Anonymous No.1188557]

Board is slow.

[Anonymous No.1188598]

How fast do you have to go to get into low earth orbit?

[Anonymous No.1188818]

>>1182331
Stunning project, OP. Hats off.

Wish I didn't live in a place where you would get
jail milage for this without a PhD and thousands of permits lmao

[Anonymous No.1188962]

>>1188598
Really? This is an easy Google search.
No spoon feeding 4u

[Anonymous No.1189087]

>>1188818

Where do you live? Amateur rocketry is a cherished and legally protected hobby round abouts here.

[Anonymous No.1190254]

>>1182331
Hello North Korea.
Btw really nice project man

[Anonymous No.1190283]

>>1182331
I was disappointed that there was no second stage firing. Pretty neat though. Quality thread, OP.

>all dat level of faggotry ITT

Don't let buyfags get you down OP!

[Anonymous No.1190315]

I was hoping for nozzle turning, propellant packing stuff or some kind of active controls but all i got was a fiberglass tube

[Anonymous No.1191051]

>>1190283
Nice webm. Got any more?
>>1190315
I really, really want to make a rocket with active control surfaces.

[Anonymous No.1191057]

>>1182331
I just got here and why does this passive single stage rocket have canards?

[Anonymous No.1191059]

>>1191057
He modeled it after a sidewinder apparently.

[Anonymous No.1191060]

>>1191057
Read the damn op, jesus.