SQTDDTOT

[Anonymous No.1144666]

Stupid Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread.

didnt see one so i'll start one.
first time solderer here, and obviously dun-goofed. my question is, did i break it/burn it? do i need to buy a new motherboard (3ds xl)?
im trying to do loopys mod to let me use a gamecube controller on my 3ds xl.

[Anonymous No.1144667]

>>1144666
i'll dump some of the tutorial pics to get the ball rolling

[Anonymous No.1144669]

>>1144667
pic related is what its supposed to look like
instructions
http://3dscapture.com/controller/

[Anonymous No.1144672]

i know i should give up on it, but i would like to try again. i seem to struggle with good solder points. i have jittery fingers. are there any tools to clamp wires or solder or any anons know of and good tutorial videos on soldering? i think i've burnt the board in 2 different places and over soldered every wire.

[Anonymous No.1144677]

sorry i apologize for being all over the place. pic related is my project.

circled in red: are these burnt to the point that it is broken?
circled in yellow: is this too much solder that it would cause problems?

should i order a new mother board and attempt again?

what tools would be beneficial for the next time around?
i have a 40w soldering iron
damp sponge
electrical tape
30awg wire
1 pair of metal wire clamps (these are frustrating, is there something better i could use?)
a shitty magnifying glass

[Anonymous No.1144722]

what's a good beginner electronics kit? I want to do more side projects with the arduino and raspi I have. I did a few but those were all in my classes so I had access to unlimited amount of resistors, wires, capacitors, etc. What are some good kits to buy?

[Anonymous No.1144741]

How many 12v batteries do you need to run something rated 1200w? I'm assuming 10 in series would put you needing only 10A of current, but how do you control how fast the voltage comes out? Is the thing you're plugging in regulating the speed?

[Anonymous No.1144743]

>>1144741
>how fast the voltage comes out
I lol'd

[Anonymous No.1144751]

>>1144666
>SQTDDTOT

Do you really need to do this? The whole -TDDTOT is implied in a stupid questions thread. Getting really annoyed of these retarded reddit-tier acronyms.

[Anonymous No.1144773]

>>1144672
Helping hands can be used to hold the wires in place. You probably fucked the board, can't tell if it's even remotely salvageable with all that soldier on but you more than likely burnt the hell out of the copper. Next time you try to soldier, you should use something you don't care about breaking until you figure out how to do it. It's not something you can do well without any practice

[Anonymous No.1144795]

>>1144741
>but how do you control how fast the voltage comes out?
Oh you sweet summer child.

[Anonymous No.1144931]

>>1144677
The burned parts are probably still ok. Use a multimeter in continuity mode to check that the points still connect to where they need to. A better soldering station can really make life easier. I got an 853d chinese station off ebay for ~$50. Hot air and an iron both with temperature control.

If you want some cheap shit to practice on, go to the thrift store and buy some 80s or early 90s tech, and practice removing and reconnecting components. Stay away from CRT TVs until you know how to do it safely.

[Anonymous No.1144968]

>>1144666
>>1144672
>>1144677
The burned part should be okay though, as long as no tracks detached from the board.

Tho I still I think you fucked it up, the resistor at R106 seems to have desoldered, same as two small components (resistors? capacitors?) below TP92 and TP88. If that is the case here you could find the values and replace them, although resoldering such small components with iron is pain and should be done with heat gun instead. If I am mistaken and there was no resistor / it is on the other side (can't really see from the pictures here) then it should be okay.

As for soldering, get a cheap soldering station with temperature control, set it to anywhere between 250 - 350 (you'll need to find the temperature which works best for you, also keep in mind that out of the box the soldering station may not be calibrated so if you set 280 it may actually be for example 300. That does not matter here, as long as the temperature you set is good enough for you, the value displayed by station is irrelevant. If you want to calibrate then you would also need calibration tool, but that's not necessary). Replace the iron with small tip, turn it on, wait for few minutes so it stabilizes temperature, wet the tip with tin (that way it transfers the temperature to the soldered component faster, good luck heating the element without that), tin the wire (basically touch the wire for ~1s also providing a bit of tin), then tin the contacts (again, touch for ~1s, provide a bit of tin but not too much, the TP1 for example is clearly too much) and then just connect the stuff - , stick the wire in there, touch with the soldering iron until they connect, remove iron, wait for ~2s for the solder to cool.

So soldering station with temperature control and small tip. You can use tape to hold the wire in place.

[Anonymous No.1144977]

>>1144751
QTDDTOT is not a new thing, nor is it 'reddit.' quit being a faggot.

[Anonymous No.1144984]

>>1144666
And to further expand my comment here >>1144968
For small electronic / PCB stuff like that (I also soldered my 3DS - hardmod, my Vita and I also work a lot with arduinos) I use generic 0.38mm solder an T-0.8C tip on a cheap chinese station (WEP 939D), temp is set to 290 C (at least that's what the station displays, I did not calibrate it), it may not be ideal but that's what works best for me.

[Anonymous No.1145030]

>>1144741
>how do you control how fast the voltage comes out?

[Anonymous No.1145031]

>>1145030
he asked for how fast the potential difference comes out, not the electrons

[Anonymous No.1145042]

>>1144666
There's no hacking general?

I want help in repurposing a calculator...

[Anonymous No.1145049]

>>1144773
the wifi wasnt working on it anyway, so i figured it would be a cool project.

[Anonymous No.1145053]

>>1144931
>>1144968
>>1144984
thanks anons for the advice. looks like ill try again, test for continuity and also get a better soldering station.

[Anonymous No.1145057]

If the hydrogen ion is missing an electron when it combines with oxygen to make water, wouldn't the water be missing 2 electrons? (2 because H2O).

Or does the electron that passes through the wire join back up with the hydrogen at the plate?

[Anonymous No.1145060]

>>1145042
>>>/diy/ohm
For the electrical side anyway, /g/ has programming threads

[Anonymous No.1145107]

Need to replace the vents outside my house that allow the crawlspace to breath but I have no idea what the terms for said vents are and therefore am incapable of searching for them online. They are like little metal windows covered in a mesh, to keep mice out from underneath my house.

[Anonymous No.1145117]

Does anyone in the UK know how much it costs to get small equipment CE marked?

We have a pressurised blast pot and elf n' safety say it needs too be tested. Normally the manafacturer provides the info but it's a homemade

[Anonymous No.1145128]

My laptop screen cracked so I replaced it. Here is the cracked LCD. Anything worth salvaging or repurposing?
btw I heard there might be conductive & toxic liquid leaking from cracked LCD. Is it true?

[Anonymous No.1145131]

>>1145128
the LED striplight can be nice

>toxic
not really, unless you're dumb enough to eat it
just wash your hands after handling

[Anonymous No.1145133]

>>1145107
Foundation vent

[Anonymous No.1145152]

>>1145133
thx m8

[Anonymous No.1145207]

would something like this work well for fusing plastic? im working on my car and its 3 decades old so a lot of the plastic is brittle and breaks easy so i would like a way to melt it back together without spending $200 on a welder.
>Dremel 1550 T2 Versa Tip Multipurpose Tool Kit
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302YM/

[Anonymous No.1145232]

>>1145207
Use plastic cement along with suturing with steel wire.

Imagine trying to mend a broken crayon with that... Won't work too well

[Anonymous No.1145271]

>>1145107
>vents outside my house that allow the crawlspace to breath
>vents for crawl space

[Anonymous No.1145275]

>>1145207
>without spending $200 on a welder.

[Anonymous No.1145317]

I've got an old CRT monitor where the bottom half of the picture doesn't display (at all), I haven't fired it up in a few years, but I might be interested in doing so in the near future.

I've read up on how to discharge the anode but I'm wondering, how likely is this to be an easy fix? Is it really worth pursuing?

[Anonymous No.1145335]

>>1145117
ce marking is complicated but basically you ce mark it yourself to say it isn't fucking cheap nasty shit. you need to keep a folder of all the design documents and shit and be able to prove its designed properly. no fucking company should do that for you and if they do they are gimps, only the guy who designed it should sign it off otherwise whats the point.
you only need it to sell in the eu. if its a safety issue for stuff made in house to use in house then probably a PAT test is more appropriate, like you get most things in your office pat tested usually every year to satisfy insurance and usually h&s although technically its not necessary to explicitly test it.
if you have an insulation resistance tester thats about it.

[Anonymous No.1145360]

Ok. Have a sump pit with 2 pumps in it and would like to add a remote indicator of when they are running. They are the sealed switch type so I can't tap the switch.

I know of the "smart" power strips that have outlets that turn on and off with the load on one outlet but I would rather build something at the breaker panel that indicates when the pump is running so I don't have extension cords all over the place.

[Anonymous No.1145368]

>>1145057
Yeah the anode provides the missing Electrons

[Anonymous No.1145369]

>>1145128
Peel off the lcd and use the backlight.
There are videos on YouTube on how to use old lcd backlights

[Anonymous No.1145382]

Hey /diy/, /k/ here.
I do a lot of custom work with firearms and am getting pretty tired having to send them to engravers for simpler markings.

Are there any cheaper CNC laser engravers worth a damn that can engrave aluminum/steel without issue? I'm expecting to need CO2 40W minimum but I don't know much about the field. Tooled engravers would be okay too I guess, do they make rotary CNC machines?

Cheaper in this context is ideally under $500, I know most hobbyist stuff is only good for plastics and wood but I'm hoping something exists that isn't big boy industrial prices.

[Anonymous No.1145399]

>>1145360
The wire from the breaker could be coiled a few tight turns and use something to sense the magnetic field generated when the pump turned on.
The sensor could be used to control an indicator lamp mounted on or near the panel.

A relay with #14 wire coil in series with the line from the breaker could be used directly to operate an indicator.
(old refrigerators used this system to connect the start winding on the compressor - they were made from momentary contact but could be adapted)

Two diodes of suitable current and voltage handling capacity could be wired back-to-back and placed in series with the line wire from the breaker.
The voltage drop (~.7v) when pump is on could be sensed and used to trigger an indicator.

Any of these only work if the pump(s) are the only thing on the breaker you are measuring.

[Anonymous No.1145403]

>>1145399
Just thought of one more:
Use an open-ended coil from a solenoid of some sort by running the Line wire from the breaker through the core of the coil.
The voltage generated in the coil when the pump is on could be used to trigger an indicator.

[Anonymous No.1145404]

>>1145399

Thanks. I have no problem running new circuits out to the pumps. I just didn't want to have outlet strips and 120 running back and forth for and indicator light.

Ill have to experiment with a proc switch and some coiled wire on an extension cord to see what works then make a permanent version in the breaker box.

[Anonymous No.1145407]

>>1145403
These even come as snap on devices.

[Anonymous No.1145410]

>>1145403
That's a great ideal. I have tons of pinball parts. Maybe ill get lucky and have enough current to run a LED straight off the coil. If not ill have to add a power supply and transistor but there is room in the box for it.

[Anonymous No.1145473]

I have an old wall affixed workbench that I have re-topped with high quality plywood and a 2x6 for a backsplash. I want to paint it pure white and coat it with something durable, clear and glossy.

My first thought was to use pic related and then coat it over with a clear gloss polyurethane, but my test strip has revealed a few problems. First, the epoxy pain soaks straight into the wood and takes a minimum of 3 coats of paint to stat to coat correctly. The can says priming is not recommended, but that is for metal surfaces, so I tried a cheap rattlecan primer and it seems to go on better. However, when I spray on the polyurethane clear coat, it does not seem to be creating a smooth surface even after sanding the epoxy paint.

My next option is using a sanding sealer over the wood, which may potentially work, but still leaves me with problems for the clearcoat.

So, is there a better way to go about this? My goal is to end with a hard, smooth top like a countertop. I wish I could go the poured epoxy route, but the 2x6 backsplash and the edge of the bench are vertical surfaces, and would prevent me from getting a clean, even coat.

[Anonymous No.1145475]

So every time I have to remove my rear seat back out of my car, I have to have two people. One has to sit inside the car with a ratchet, the other has to hold the nut under the car, because the bolt runs through the floorpan. How can I turn this two man job into a one man job?

Obviously I could weld a nut under the floorpan, but I dont have access a welder, nor do I do this job often enough to use a favor borrowing one.

Thanks in advance!

[Anonymous No.1145485]

>>1145475
Put the bolt in, put a boxed end wrench on it, turn counter-clockwise until it hits something, then tape it in place. Might help to put tape over the bolt head before putting the wrench on it to make it snug in the wrench.

If all the bolts are parallel and fully threaded, you could put an extra nut between the seat and floor to lock the bolt onto the seat.
Jam nuts are thinner and would raise the seat less.

[Anonymous No.1145487]

>>1145485
Ill try this, thanks!

[Anonymous No.1145574]

I make hilariously bad inventions on my YT channel, my next I wanted do do something with a fan motor. One of those small desk fans but without the fan blade. What can I put on it to make it a practical gadget/invention??

[Anonymous No.1145576]

>>1145574
Post channel

[Anonymous No.1145581]

>>1145335

Cheers, it's for my business so HSE want it tested along with everything connected to the compressor, no intention of selling but they are saying they won't sign off without a manafacturer stamp and CE mark on it

[Anonymous No.1145605]

>>1145382
I doubt you'll find anything for $500

If you want cheap then try salt water etching.

>clean your parts with alcohol
>use electrical tape or nail Polish to cover area you want to etch, then use a razer blade to scratch out your design
>get a 9v battery, cables, and crocodile clips
>connect one battery terminal to the part, connect the other to a cotton pad you soaked in salt water
>slowly rub the cotton pad around the area you want to etch, if it's working you should see white smoke
>DO NOT BREATHE THIS IN
>change your cotton pad as it goes brown and nasty
>more passes = deeper etch, but be careful because it can be difficult to keep it a uniform depth

This is good but very time consuming, especially if you want to etch text.
To speed it up you could get a vinyl cutting machine that creates vinyl designs you can then stick onto parts and etch, but again $500 is a very low badget.

If you're going to be etching the same few designs over and over then just bulk order them from your local vinyl cutter. Hell, even if you're not etching the same designs it might be cheaper and more convenient to get a vinyl shop to do them all for you anyway, if they're close enough to you and can do them fast.

[Anonymous No.1145648]

I've got this window AC unit.
Pic similar, how do I clean it without removing it?
I live alone and the thing is very heavy to take out and clean with hose.

[Anonymous No.1145658]

>>1145648
Wire brush.

[Anonymous No.1145665]

>>1145658
Won't this ruin the metal fins?

[Anonymous No.1145666]

>>1145665
You were going to hose it. Now you're worried about the fins?

Probably not, a plastic scrub brush will get it done with twice the effort.

[Anonymous No.1145668]

>>1145648
Vacuum cleaner with brush attachment or a paintbrush.
To get it really clean, use a toothbrush. Heat the handle with a lighter to bend the head 30 to 90 degrees to make it easier.

Brush up & down, not side to side

I wouldn't use a wire brush

[Anonymous No.1145679]

>>1145665
no, they're not aluminum foil

[Anonymous No.1145686]

>>1145605
Sounds like my best bet is to stick to paying professionals. Ah well, thanks.

[Anonymous No.1145770]

>>1145576
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNh8oQLswdSqO7wDrbCXqRA

Here's the channel.

Anyway, I have a little desk fan I've taken apart so it's just the motor that makes the fan spin, what can I put on it that'd make it either practical or hilarious, be as graphic and vulgar as you want idc

[Anonymous No.1145778]

What's a cheapiest way to make balloon paint bombs?
Size: medium to large, so it would paint a person and maybe everybody around

Paint seems to be rather expensive for mass use, so I'm asking.

[Anonymous No.1145797]

>>1145778
Use some paint that you can dilute in water? It's not going to be opaque but it'll be cheap.

[Anonymous No.1145809]

>>1145778
>Paint seems to be rather expensive for mass use, so I'm asking.

The price of the paint will seem minor compared to the legal costs of defending yourself when charged with assault.

[Anonymous No.1145818]

>>1145809
Depends on the country, I guess.
I want to know just in case some retards start a demonstration or other protest.

[Anonymous No.1145822]

>>1145797
Thought about it, maybe it would be the best way. I don't know a thing about paints, though.
It would have to be a non-toxic, washable paint to avoid lawsuits.

[Anonymous No.1145825]

>>1145822
>non-toxic, washable paint to avoid lawsuits.
You can be sued over a water balloon.

[Anonymous No.1145840]

>>1145825
Is that a thing everywhere or just in USA?

[Anonymous No.1145848]

The transformer has broken off. But I can't find a replacement for it, as I really don't know much about them. The only marking on it is 14. It's 4 pins. mains 230v. 14mm width. It looks like a ee14, But I can't find any that look the same. I'm not looking to repair it as i have to replace 5 more with the same problem.

[Anonymous No.1145877]

>>1145848
>I'm not looking to repair it as i have to replace 5 more with the same problem.
wtf???

you probably can't get those transformers - they're custom made for that switcher.

just replace the whole board, or one that will give you the same voltages and currents

[Anonymous No.1146107]

How to fix something like pic related?
A broken desk corner.
The damn thing annoys me and even tore some of my clothes.
Any idea how to fix it?
I was thinking of using some glazing putty, to complete the shape, but will it hold?

[Anonymous No.1146162]

>>1146107

Looks pretty fucked up but maybe you could fix it with wood filler. Put on more than you need and then sand away and paint it.

[Anonymous No.1146168]

>>1146162
>wood filler
Any replacement?

[Anonymous No.1146173]

>>1146107
ugh mdf

use a jigsaw or circular saw to cut it straight (doesnt have to be 45)
sand the edges
seal with polyurethane (soak), or spraypaint

[Anonymous No.1146223]

>>1146107
this stuff works... its a dry power you mix with water and use as you would use regular wood putty filler. I'd also put a couple small screws into the broken edge (that will be completely embedded) to help anchor the wood putty (so it doesn't just break off again).
this stuff does in deed dry to become 'rock hard' and it doesn't shrink in the process. after its rock hard it can still be worked or sanded but its tough going as its... you guessed it, rock hard. so try to get it as close to how you want it shaped before it hardens.

[Anonymous No.1146330]

in insulating attics, why don't people used layers.

for example

remove old insulation
air seal
fit insulating foam between joist
cover with bags filled with mylar
fiberglass batts rolled on top
wool blankets over that
finish with blow in insulation covering everything

[Anonymous No.1146349]

>>1146330

[Anonymous No.1146355]

>>1144666
Top left of that mess in the middle appears to be a copper trace ripped out. If it is that is very hard to fix on such a small scale

[Anonymous No.1146368]

I recently moved and can't access the electric meter cupboard

There are two holes and I can't figure out which key I need

This is the inside of the holes

[Anonymous No.1146374]

>>1146368
Try twisting the square metal piece with a screw driver. If it doesn't twist try moving it to the left side.

[Anonymous No.1146376]

>>1146374
the hole is too big for that

[Anonymous No.1146379]

>>1146376
No comprendo. Post a macro pic with a ruler or something for scale.

[Anonymous No.1146399]

I am completely new to electronics, but not to low-level programming. I wanna make some small project (something as simple as displaying a number on a LCD screen (is that even simple?)) to get into it.
Where do I start? What should I even google?
I've been reading around the Sparkfun website, but everything about them seems kinda sleazy and condescending to me.

[Anonymous No.1146404]

>>1146399
Arduino.

[Anonymous No.1146597]

Is a ratchet wrench with a 3/8" drive good enough for most car work or do I need a 1/2" drive? I have a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter for the big bits but idk if the 3/8 head on the ratchet will just strip or something.

I'm going to replace the upper ball joints on my car, first major automotive project.

[Anonymous No.1146612]

Generally speaking, which tools which are worth spending good money on and which are fine to be a cheap ass?

Ie, I see expensive and cheap levels.. i'd kinda expect both the cheap and expensive ones to do the same job - pretty hard to fuck up a level??

[Anonymous No.1146616]

I know nothing about plumbing and my downstairs shower started leaking hot water like hell. I shut down the mains and im wondering if I can just fill the cartridge with silicon and put it back in to stop the water flowing completely. This would be temporary while I try and order a new one. Will it build up pressure and create leaks in the wall or something? Again I have no knowledge of this stuff.

[Anonymous No.1146617]

>>1146616
Why order a new one? Take the old one down to a local place that sells plumbing stuff and just buy a new one.

[Anonymous No.1146619]

>>1146617
I tried two different spots when it first started leaking and neither had a clue about where to get a new one. I think I managed to find one thats identical on aliexpress so im going to try that before I I start thinking about changing the valve and everything.

[Anonymous No.1146620]

>>1146597
3/8 is enough for general mechanics work. The only thing I can recall using 1/2" on is lugnuts. Might want a 3/8 breaker bar for really tight or large nuts.

[Anonymous No.1146621]

Is there anyway to make a small LED light turn on anytime there is motion? In this instance spinning.

[Anonymous No.1146631]

>>1146399
Arduino has a large community but I've only dabbled with it once. I know what you mean about condescending.

I use the msp430 launchpad, and hooking up a 7seg display was one of the first things I did. pic related. I was just the opposite, had experience in electronics but lacked C experience.
It is good for "ultra-low" power. It's 3.3V though, so to interface to common arduino modules takes an extra step.
Understanding bitmasks and memory mapped I/O is helpful

Code Composer Studio is free.
>http://processors.wiki.ti.com/index.php/Download_CCS
The programming is in C, C++ or even assembler.
Value line MSP-EXP430G2 Launchpads are $10
>http://www.ti.com/tool/MSP-EXP430G2
Here's the user guide
>http://www.ti.com/lit/ug/slau318g/slau318g.pdf
More stuff you can find:
MSP430x2xx Family users guide
>slau144i.pdf
MSP430G2553 datasheet
>msp430g2553.pdf

Here's some code and projects. Not a very active community, but has examples of projects and code
>http://forum.43oh.com/

flashing an LED in C would go something like:

#include <msp430g2553> //the specific chip
unsigned char MYLED = 0x02; //0000 0010 or pin 1

void main(void){
P1DIR |= MYLED;//set LED pin to output
while(1){
P1OUT |= MYLED;//turn on
delayms(1000);
P1OUT &= ~MYLED;//turn off
delayms(1000);
}
}

A 7 seg is just led's so you could run it off an 8 pin port through 8 resistors.
After that, if you're interested in the digital electronics aspect you can use a shift register for serial data so you only need 2-3 pins.

You'll need a breadboard, some wire or jumpers, LED's or 7seg, and resistors minimum.

Good luck anon

[Anonymous No.1146646]

>>1146631
Thank you for your detailed post, but what I struggle to get my mind around is how, exactly, are you supposed to connect the thing (microcontroller?) to a PC and then change the program inside?
I mean - physically, how do connect it?
I saw that some pre-built boards come with a USB connection, but what if I purchase the microcontoller individually? Is that even a possibility?

[Anonymous No.1146654]

Should I peel off the film on the 7-segments?

[Anonymous No.1146657]

>>1146654
Should you peel the similar film off from your cell phone?

[Anonymous No.1146659]

>>1146657
This film feels so sturdy, as though it's part of the construction, but sloppily cut.

But I guess not then.

[Anonymous No.1146661]

>>1146654
yes

[Anonymous No.1146662]

>>1146659
Well, if it comes off easily, then it is meant to be taken off.

[Anonymous No.1146664]

>>1146654
no

[Anonymous No.1146670]

>>1146657
>>1146661
>>1146662
You were right, boys.

[Anonymous No.1146678]

some part of my water boiler broke and i wanted to open it up to fix it. a screw looking like pic related appeared and blocked the path

is there a proper way to open this thing up without buying the proper tool or breaking it?

[Anonymous No.1146687]

>>1146620
yeah i will get a breaker. do I need a torque wrench to put it back together, because i'll take it to an alignment shop right after and they should be able to torque it up, right?

[Anonymous No.1146914]

>>1146678
flat screwdriver
dremel slot in blade
problem solved

[Anonymous No.1146936]

>>1146678
Needle nose pliers or vice grips and twist.

[Mr Anonymous No.1146944]

>>1146678
why don't you just buy an ifixit 64 bit screwdriver kit, those things are about $35 then you will always have the right screwdriver, (exept for really big screws)

[Anonymous No.1147093]

whats the ratio of heat retention between an attic and exterior walls?

[Anonymous No.1147326]

Do you think I can transport my soldering station in my luggage? I would be a national flight in an European country but airport security tend to be a nuisance everywhere.

[Anonymous No.1147366]

>>1145475
Use a rivet nut like pic related, m8.

[Anonymous No.1147373]

Sound amp stopped working, no popping sound or any apparent burn damage. Fuse looks good I think. What's the thing I should look for?

[Anonymous No.1147374]

How do I speed the time the glazing putty needs to harden?

[Anonymous No.1147379]

How the heck do I get into making clocks (including the mechanism. ESPECIALLY the mechanism)? The most I can find on google is either making clocks using a store-bought mechanism or making clocks controlled by arduinos. I want to make a "regular" spring-powered clock.

[Anonymous No.1147387]

>>1147326
You can always drill a hole in the body for visual inspection by customs.

[Anonymous No.1147487]

>>1146646
You just connect to a USB port
Create new project, Write program & click launch
CCS compiles and transfers to the uC
click run
I think programming Arduino with energa is similar

The launchpad provides a power supply and stuff to load the program onto the uC(I don't recall the details).
Once it's programmed, you can remove the chip from the launchpad.
Yea, you can buy just the chip.

The launchpad board is divided into 2 parts. 5 jumpers can be removed to disconnect the left side, leaving the right side just the uC, 2 buttons(1 is reset), 2 LEDs(can be disconnected) , and the headers

If you were familiar with the details, you could connect the left side of the board to a chip installed in something else to program it.

[Anonymous No.1147539]

How do you guys stay motivated to do the work?

[Anonymous No.1147638]

What's the secret to choosing good paint colors?
Every color I choose ends up looking awful when finished.

[Anonymous No.1147664]

Anyone into molding and casting? What happens if I slip-cast with resin and fill it up with plaster once set? I want this hobby to be inexpensive and prolific so any tip would be appreciated!

[Anonymous No.1147665]

How much deditated wam does it take to start a server?

[Anonymous No.1147666]

>>1146678
They are called split nut or half nut screwdrivers for the tool you want but judging by the post date you probably fixed it so nevermind

[Anonymous No.1147708]

>>1147664
I used to be but I only worked with silicone and plaster for molds, and ceramics and wax for casting. What do you mean exactly, are you making a resin mold and casting in plaster?

[Anonymous No.1147715]

>>1147638
>What's the secret to choosing good paint colors?

good taste

[Anonymous No.1147740]

>>1147708
I believe I make the molds the same way as you, but just plain plaster for casting though. I was thinking of doing a slip cast with another material that acted as a resistant waterproof coating of sorts, a resin I figured, then fill the bulk of the cast with cheap plaster or other filler depending on what I'm trying to achieve.

Right now I'm on pause so I can't test it myself, so does this sound like a good Idea?

[Anonymous No.1147750]

>>1147740

interesting idea, I've never tried it. I'm not 100% sure that the plaster would bond to the resin. What I would do is do a test run with a tiny mold and cast and see how it bonds as well as how it holds up. There's a lot of factors at play since it's two different materials. Test it out and report back!

[Anonymous No.1147765]

Do Monoprice coupons ever go beyond 25%?

How rare are 25% coupons?

[Anonymous No.1147768]

Could some kind anon please tell me how I might wire this switch? I have a feeling I just push the stripped ends of one of th wire into the holes, but I'm not sure

[Anonymous No.1147792]

>>1147768
Haven't seen that exact switch but the lettering by the square hole says release so I'm inclined to agree with insert in round hole.
The base looks like the type where the switch goes in the line cord.
Pick the place where you want the switch and separate the wires a bit then cut ONE of the pair - preferably the hot wire.
Strip the wire ends back a bit and tin the bare ends.
Loop the uncut wire around the switch and plug the tinned ends into the holes.

[Anonymous No.1147794]

>>1147768
The side says wire release so you are probably correct.
You may need to tin the ends to make it work properly with stranded wire.

[Anonymous No.1147802]

What's a good alternative to American Hard Maple for us Aussie /diy/ers? I'm sure I could get it here if I wanted to but I imagine there are cheaper local alternatives.

[Anonymous No.1148324]

So one of my screens no longer stays on more than 1-2 seconds and i think the cause is this capacitor
the screen in question is nice 3 year old 1080p ips screen so im willing to fix it
can i solder in a generic capacitor?
can and should i replace it with better part?, maybe 50uf?
is this possible with basic solder skills?

[Anonymous No.1148341]

Could I hire a roofer for a day to teach me how to redo my shitty 1600 sq ft ranch's roof?

I don't want to pay $6000 for illegals and $1000 of materials.

[Anonymous No.1148347]

>>1148324
>can i solder in a generic capacitor?
As long as the voltage and capacitance is the same and it will physically fit, yes.
>>1148324
>should i replace it with better part?, maybe 50uf?
Without knowing it's exact purpose, it's better to stay with the original capacitance.
It's OK to go with higher voltage (within reason)
>>1148324
>is this possible with basic solder skills?
Removal is more difficult than the actual replacement.
Practice through-hole parts removal on something else first.

[Anonymous No.1148349]

>>1148341
Asphalt shingle installation instructions are on each bundle.
Watch YT instruction videos.
Hire a mexican to 'help' you - he'll know how to do it.

[Anonymous No.1148354]

>>1148347
thanks

[Anonymous No.1148367]

>>1147373
Bulging capacitors, if any. Replace if you see them.

[Anonymous No.1148387]

Is there anything in particular I should look for in ear protection. Tired of using ear plugs.

[Anonymous No.1148527]

Why do people burn rings of fire into their grass, what does it do

[Anonymous No.1148548]

Was up in the attic and noticed this sap stuff on one of the beams. What is it?

[Anonymous No.1148563]

/k/ here. What's some glue that dries clear on plexiglass? I'm making some waifu grips when I get my 1911 for my birthday.

[Anonymous No.1148566]

I'm making a custom hardwood box for my Ruger LC9S.
I'm going to do a felt lined interior with a foam block with cutouts for the pistol and a spare magazine.
Where would I find a place to custom cut the foam? I don't trust myself to make it look not shitty.

[Anonymous No.1148606]

>>1148566
Could do it yourself probably with a dremell and foam.
Otherwise check shipping stores to see if they do custom styrofoam padding.

[Anonymous No.1148612]

>>1148566
>I don't trust myself to make it look not shitty.

Foam is cheap, scroll saws are cheap. Get one on craigslist or a pawn shop and cut away. Mark your likes and cut, a shape like a handgun is going to be very easy even for a novice

[Anonymous No.1148628]

>>1148566
Old classic gun cases were felt over wood. Positive holding of cased objects and dessicant effect of wood are pluses. It's worked for literally hundreds of years.

[Anonymous No.1148642]

>>1148628
Wait...wood is a desiccant? So I don't need to put the store bought desiccant packets in their with it? Cool.

[Anonymous No.1148690]

>>1148548
pine rosin

[Anonymous No.1148699]

>>1148690
Cool. Whoever built the house made some questionable choices so now I've been questioning everything that I'm not completely familiar with

[Anonymous No.1148793]

Triple beam Joint question. Pic related. A, B, C or something else entirely?

On the right you see the 4,4x3,2cm corner column of a 30x50cm shelf/box frame at 73cm height (~12x20x29 inch) - it's shortened to show both joint areas. They're connected with 4x1cm boards that fit in the slots (one on top, the other a few cm from the bottom). 3 floor boards will create space to put things later.

At the top I just use corner bridle joints with a notch for the other beam.

I can't do that for the bottom since there's no way to slide it in from above.
On the left in the image are 3 possible ways to do it instead. A seems the easiest to do if only because I don't have to find my miter box.
I'm thinking it doesn't matter all that much, but I figured I'd ask.


>why are you wasting your time with joinery to begin with? Just use screws/pocket holes, etc
It's just a hobby, I enjoy making it with just glue and joints.

[Anonymous No.1148937]

Bought a pair of unlined deerskin gloves, new in the box. They're probably as old as I am (made in West Germany) and fit me perfectly. What's the best way to take care of them?

[Anonymous No.1148949]

>>1148937
>What's the best way to take care of them?
put them back in the box

[Anonymous No.1149112]

I ordered a cheap NodeMCU from aliexpress and those chinks soldered on the pins all crooked. Is there a way to get them to a 90 degree angle with the pcb without pulling all pins out individually and soldering on a completely new header?

[Anonymous No.1149134]

Any diy examples for a card game deckbox? Like MTG or something?

[Anonymous No.1149139]

have this AP outside my window need a more stable setup the curtains keeps knocking it over is there anyway to put it again the windows with suction cups or something renting the place so cant do anything to extreme or permanent any ideas ?

pic related

[Anonymous No.1149157]

I bought a plastic ukulele as a gift for someone, and the frets are the same color as the fingerboard, which makes them hard to see. For a beginner, this is just one needless extra hurdle, so I wanted to paint the tops of them.

Is there any kind of paint I could use on the plastic frets that's
>waterproof
>dries hard (don't want it sticking to the string when pressed down)
>doesn't rub off easily by coming into regular contact with nylon strings, plastic strings, or skin

[Anonymous No.1149194]

STUPID QUESTION:
>I have 2 computers, same model, but one is a 32-bit processor and the other is a 64-bit, while the monitor & keyboard are broken on the 64-bit laptop and the 32-bit processor is shot; can I just remove the 32-bit processor & put the 64-bit processor into the that computer? The monitor is only 32-bit; will it be ruined? Will everything else be fine or won't it be compatible?

[Anonymous No.1149199]

>>1149194
The words you use make no sense whatsoever in the context you're talking about. And at that point I honestly have no idea what you're even asking.
Please tell us more about your computers. Use something like speccy to get your hardware or use the model number and manufacturer of your computer to find out the hardware.

Are they both laptops? Then most likely you won't be able to change anything at all.

[Anonymous No.1149207]

>>1149194
After reading it again, it seems what you call "processor" is simply the computer (motherboard, processor, harddrive, ram, etc) and the other shit (keyboard, computer) would be called "peripherals". Except, in a laptop the peripherals are all integrated and different from model to model.

Whether they're compatible or not depends on the specific models, but with your complete lack of understanding, I find it hard to imagine that you're able to switch them out, even if they were compatible.
In either case, you need the model numbers of the laptop, and then research the model numbers of the parts (keyboard, screen). And then replace them if they're the same, or at least compatible.

Chances are, however that it's not the keyboard/screen that's broken, but instead some other small, cheap and generic part (good); or something on the motherboard (single component that connects it all), at which point you might as well buy a new laptop.
In other words, not only do you need to replace parts, you first need to find out which parts are actually broken.


What you could do instead is take the laptop that works (except for the screen/keyboard) and add an external monitor and external keyboard. Your Laptop needs to have the proper ports (vga or hdmi or whatever for a monitor, and usb or PS2 for the laptop) though. And of course then it's not portable anymore.

[Anonymous No.1149214]

>>1149199
>>1149207
both e5500 latitude laptops. i put a 64bit processor into the 32bit slot because the monitor and keyboard are broken on the 64bit laptop. what i really want to know is if i can install a 64bit OS on the computer now that it has a 64 bit processor. is that the only thing that determiones whether a computer is 64 or 32bit? the processor? or are there other parts that wont be compatible if i install a 64bit OS?
>processor is the CPU
>literally takes 30 seconds to replace once bottom cover is off
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nb_RSEf-br0

[Anonymous No.1149215]

>>1149207
>complete lack of understanding
doesn't know what a processor is

[Anonymous No.1149216]

>>1149199
"gpu-z" is better than speccy

[Anonymous No.1149217]

>>1149214
Ah now I understand. Honestly didn't expect a laptops to have a replaceable processors anymore.
If the motherboard supports the new processor, there's nothing to worry about.
Are you sure the old one was a 32bit processor?

[Anonymous No.1149351]

Help me out DIY. I'm bad at this. A client wants to paint 1700 square feet. Its walls only. Assuming I have no competition - meaning I dont have to lower my price to get the job, and assuming that all of the paint and supplies have been paid for, what should I charge here?

I've only charged by the hour before, never done a bid. help a young man out please.

[Anonymous No.1149353]

Is there anything a table saw can do that a circular saw cant?

[Anonymous No.1149374]

>>1149351
I Googled 'interior painting rates by square foot' and got
http://www.referwork.com/ref/cost_per_square_foot_interior_house_painting.htm

You could have done this yourself.

[Anonymous No.1149379]

>>1149374
>http://www.referwork.com/ref/cost_per_square_foot_interior_house_painting.htm


>prices can range from .50 to 1.50 per square foot

I was looking for a straight forward answer is all. But I hope you got to feel good doing the obnoxious LURK MORE thing that faggots love to do so much. Kys.

[Anonymous No.1149389]

>>1148324
>So one of my screens no longer stays on more than 1-2 seconds and i think the cause is this capacitor
*sigh*
That's a polymer electrolytic. They don't go bad.
>the screen in question is nice 3 year old 1080p ips screen so im willing to fix it
>can i solder in a generic capacitor?
No. That's a special low ESR power supply cap, they cost about two bucks. Replace with like, or the replacement will indeed blow.
But it doesn't matter, it's not the cap.

LED monitor or CCFL?

[Anonymous No.1149419]

>>1149353
Cut in a straight line with zero effort?

[Anonymous No.1149421]

>>1148949
Thanks, you're super helpful.

[Anonymous No.1149435]

>>1149379
>I was looking for a straight forward answer is all
You provided shitty info in your request.
>>1149351
>A client wants to paint 1700 square feet. Its walls only.
1700 square feet of walls to paint or 1700 square feet of floor space surrounded by walls only?
Are there door and windows to be painted around that have trim to be painted or masked to keep from being painted?
Is the trim stained wood which must be masked/protected or painted the same color or is the trim not applied yet?
Is the floor bare waiting for tile, carpet, hardwood or is it finished it $300 per yard alpaca wool hand loomed carpet from South America's Andes?

If you want a specific answer, ask a specific question with all the specifics spelled out.

t. commercial paint contractor

[Anonymous No.1149441]

>>1149435
You forgot to ask how many coats and how high the walls are.

ipaint2

[Anonymous No.1149757]

Can I drill through this? I have a shitty aluminum door that I want to put deadbolt on. The door is about 2 inches wide aluminum, I think it's filled with plywood or plastic or something judging by the weight.

[Anonymous No.1149759]

Also the door knob latch doesnt seem to turn anymore, I have to pry the door open with a crowbar. You can push it in manually with you finger like normal, but theres no pull/push action when I turn the knob. Is there any easy fix for this or should I buy a new door knob?

[Anonymous No.1149793]

>>1149759
Under that piece against the door is a couple screws.
Take it apart to see what's broke. Without the handle in it, you can work the door latch with a screwdriver if it's the handle that's broke.
Are you sure it isn't locked?

Door is probably wood with a thin Aluminum cover.
Being you opened it with a crowbar instead of a screwdriver, I'd get help installing a deadbolt.

[Anonymous No.1149800]

anyone have advice on where to start woodworking? im trying to start my own home business, and there is not really any homemade wood furniture places here, but a lot of rich people who would probably like that stuff. Looking into refinishing furniture as well. picked up some B&D texts at the library to get an idea of what i am doing

[Anonymous No.1149831]

how do i fix a small quarter sized dent in a car panel with no access to the back?

fuck challengers and their weak ass metal

[Anonymous No.1149863]

>>1149793
Yeah it definitely aint locked. My screwdriver went missing and all I had was a crowbar to wedge inside the frame.

[Anonymous No.1149876]

>>1149757
>aluminum door that I want to put deadbolt on. The door is about 2 inches wide aluminum, I think it's filled with plywood or plastic or something judging by the weight.
It's almost certainly steel skin bonded to a wood frame and filled with expanding foam.
It's 35-5/8" wide and 1-3/4" thick
A bi-metal hole saw of 2-1/8" diameter is used on the face for the lock hole.
A bi-metal hole saw of 1" diameter is used on the edge for the bolt.
The same 1" hole saw is used to drill the frame for bolt to fit into the frame for locking.
>>1149759
>the door knob latch doesnt seem to turn anymore
It's a spring bolt an it's probably worn out.
Remove the handle from both sides and then the spring bolt can be removed after taking the two screw out that hold it in.
You can examine the handle shaft that goes through the door and where it fits on the spring bolt and decide if the wear is on the bolt or the shaft.
Replacement bolts are at hardware stores for around ten dollars - maybe less
When you buy the deadbolt buy pic related and read the instructions that come with the deadbolt and with pic related.
There are lots of slightly different door lock installation kits - pick one that suits your budget
($10-$25)

[Anonymous No.1150032]

>>1149876
Thanks for the info.

[Anonymous No.1150115]

>>1144666

euro fag here who needs to buy a bunch of 5/16" nylock nuts. Anyone know a good european internet retailer? can't find shit on my own

[Anonymous No.1150117]

>>1149831
google PDR

[Anonymous No.1150128]

I bought an older Stanley 15-408 hacksaw for a few dollars.

I want to strip it and repaint it, but im not sure the best way to remove the paint. The handle is a lightweight cast metal and I dont want to hurt it. Gonna buy some steel wool and just buff the chrome tube.

How would you strip it?

[Anonymous No.1150230]

>>1145031
>how fast the voltage comes out
>how fast the joules per coulomb comes out
>how fast the energy consumption per unit of charge comes out
Current, or amperage, is charge per second, which is the closest thing you're looking for.

If it didn't tell you what voltage to use, you'd want to measure the resistance of the component with a multimeter first. Then make voltage Vi=sqrt(1200*R). If it's not a multiplier of 12, take whatever amount of batteries needed to go over (with a new battery voltage Vb), and then add a resistor with resistance (Vb-Vi)/(1200/Vi), which is Vi(Vb-Vi)/1200.

[Anonymous No.1150232]

>>1150230
I meant to reply to >>1144741

[Anonymous No.1150266]

How are my flux welds looking?

[Anonymous No.1150268]

>>1150266
you need more consistent (less excessive) gun angle and travel speed

[Anonymous No.1150271]

What does
t.
mean?

[noneya No.1150273]

>>1150128
Here's exactly how to strip it. Go to Walmart and get washing soda. Use two tablespoons of it for every gallon of water. Connect the negative cable of a car battery charger to the piece and the positive cable to an anode. The anode will get eaten up. I use an old window weight. But I have used metal tie wire to get more even cleaning on cast iron cookware.
Electrolysis. I use it all the time to derust tools and clean paint off. It's amazing.

[Anonymous No.1150276]

>>1150266
wrong direction

[Anonymous No.1150277]

>>1150273
>Electrolysis. I use it all the time to derust tools and clean paint off. It's amazing.

That's for steel
His saw has a non-ferrous handle.
It's cast zinc or aluminum or a similar alloy.
I wouldn't recommend electrolysis for it.

[Anonymous No.1150284]

>>1150271
regards

[Anonymous No.1150348]

>>1150128
>How would you strip it?
Strong solvent. lacquer thinner, mek, xylene, something similar.

[Anonymous No.1150363]

>>1150268
Thanks, I'm at a solid 45+ degree. Speed and direction were all over the place - I just got the thing this week and been playing on a 3" pipe.

[Anonymous No.1150370]

>>1149876
So I spent the past 10 minutes trying to drill through with the hole saw and now my 20v dewalt screw driver is smoking. What did I do wrong?

[Anonymous No.1150406]

>>1150370
Think I figured out why it wasn't drilling. My dewalt was set to screwing mode not drilling mode and the torque setting was also set to low. But the fucking hole saw driver it is stuck on the hole saw. Somehow it got wedged off one of the threads and now its stuck at an angle and the fucker wont come off. Tried wedging a flat head through the slots for extra wedges and prying it loose with a wrench, but it's fucking fucked.

[Anonymous No.1150439]

I moved into a house with shit front lawn. The soil is just builders sand, and even with nutrients, my grass just won't take off too well.

Can I just add compost over a period of time, and it will make its way through?

[Anonymous No.1150448]

>>1150406
>hole saw driver it is stuck on the hole saw
It's called a mandrel and a pilot bit
>>1150406
>Somehow it got wedged off one of the threads
That 'somehow' is because you cross-threaded it.
If the mandrel has flats on it, use a wrench to hold it.
If there are no flats, use ViceGrips on the fattest part.
Use slip-joint / plumbers pliers (Chanel Locks) to grip the saw near the top - the end with threads not the end with teeth
Twist them apart and you 'may' be able to restart the threads properly and still use them.
>>1150406
>wedging a flat head through the slots for extra wedges and prying it loose with a wrench
If it's really stuck that will just deform the saw blade and make it either out-of-round at the cutting end or at the least cause the sawn plug to stick inside.

[Anonymous No.1150512]

>
>>1150448
Thanks for taking the time to parse my inane bullshit and explain things to me. Yeah there were some flat parts on the pilot chuck thing, and I managed to budge it a little but it's on there tighter than a gnats arse. I'll try again tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.1150521]

>>1150370
Bought dewalt

[Anonymous No.1150537]

>>1150512
Put it back in the drill as if you were going to drill a hole with it.
Tighten the chuck securely
Set the drill back to 'screwdriver' mode with the torque clutch set at highest setting
Set the drill/screwdriver direction to 'Reverse'
Hold the saw blade securely with slip-joint pliers
Hold the drill securely and pull the trigger
The hammering from the clutch may help it back out
If it moves a little and stops, set the drill back to 'Forward' and bump the trigger again to move it the other direction
Continue back and forth until it comes out.
Even if you get it apart, you may have damaged the threads beyond use and it won't go back together straight
When assembling the mandrel to the blade, start threading it together by hand before putting it in the drill and using the drill to spin them together for you.

[Anonymous No.1150835]

Well I got it on. I fucked up the face bore though. I tried to eyeball where to enter in from the other side of the door and kinda missed it by at least a centimeter or two, so theres a bit more wiggle room than I would like. Also fucked up the edge bore in the door stop, again because I didnt measure things out and tried to eye ball it. First hole was a quarter inch too low and I couldnt get the spade bit to stay still for the second hole so I had to chisel it out by hand and now it looks like shit. At least it works.

[Anonymous No.1150839]

>>1150835
>I tried to eyeball where to enter in from the other side
The pilot bit sticks out from the hole saw.
You're supposed to saw until the pilot bit makes a hole on the opposite side.
You then move to that side use the pilot bit hole as a guide for where to place the saw.
Perfect alignment every time

>>1150835
>Also fucked up the edge bore in the door stop, again because I didnt measure things out and tried to eye ball it.

This is why they make >>1149876
pic related.

[Anonymous No.1150842]

>>1149435
hey there painter, different guy. I know how to roll a wall and cut in, professional grade but I've never used a spray gun before. Its just back and forth right? If I can roll a wall I should be able to pick up a spray gun and my work should look good right? hopefully this isnt too stupid or autistic of a question.

[Anonymous No.1150845]

>>1150839
I used one, I meant the other hole that goes into the door frame. When I came in through the other side there was a pilot hole to start with but I was somehow still off.

Can I just say what a great invention these quit release mandrils are, my hole saw is so much more secure and a lot easier to take off. Shame that my 1 inch hole saw didn't fit it.

[Anonymous No.1150853]

>>1150842
>Its just back and forth right?

Sorta' - you have to learn to twist your wrist and time the trigger release so the end of the back-and-forth pass doesn't make an abrupt end of the paint pass.
The end of each pass should 'feather' so when you move over for the next column of back-and-forth the 'feathers' will overlap and end up with somewhere near the same amount of paint as the center of the back-and-forth.
Same concept for the vertical edges of the passes.- overlap so everything gets the same wetness.
Get a piece of cardboard, plywood, wallboard, whatever to practice on before starting to apply to the walls.
I hope you're using 'airless' if you're painting walls.

[Anonymous No.1150854]

how do i wire a seymour duncan JB into this?

[Anonymous No.1150855]

>>1150854
samefagging its a shit les paul jr. i want to sound decent, one humbucker one volume one tone

[Anonymous No.1150861]

>>1150842
No its going to be exterior.

[Anonymous No.1150872]

>>1150861
>exterior.
You're still going to waste a lot of paint if you don't use an airless.
Airless rig doesn't require thinning of the paint and most of the material goes on the surface.

Compressor operated siphon or pressure pot guns are usually used inside where the thinner material doesn't get blown away by the wind before it hits the surface you're aiming at.

Also, you're more likely to need multiple coats with an air operated guy whereas an airless can finish a job in one coat.

If air is all you have I suppose that's what you'll have to use.

[Anonymous No.1150877]

Is there any legitimate method to jailbreak idevices anymore? I'm on IOS 9.3.5 and everything is fake and gay.

[Anonymous No.1151272]

I have a door that scrapes on the tile in one of the rooms. I tried tigthening the screws in the hinges to no effect, it needs about 2mm more clearance. Which sander would be the best to use to sand it down to it doesnt scrape?

belt or orbital ? (ive got access to about 8 different types of sanders because buddy has an insane shop)

[Anonymous No.1151302]

>>1151272
Got a plane? If not, use the belt sander.

[Anonymous No.1151535]

I'm building a boombox inside an old suitcase. It's mostly finished, but I still need a battery and a way to charge it.

I was thinking of ordering a 5000mAh 6S LiPo from hobbyking, and this BMS:

http://www.batterysupports.com/22v-24v-6s-30a-6x-36v-lithium-ion-lipo-battery-bms-pcm-pcb-p-475.html

Question is, what kind of power supply do I need for charging? I have a 24v 2A 'brick' transformer, would that work? It's not a CC/CV power supply, which, if I understood it correctly, means charging would take a while... Also I'm not sure how much current the battery will draw from the power supply.

[Anonymous No.1151562]

>>1150877
>Is there any legitimate method to jailbreak idevices anymore? I'm on IOS 9.3.5 and everything is fake and gay.
if you are completely happy living in your apple-provided padded safe space, then no need for jailbreaks.

[Anonymous No.1151587]

Looking up hydraulic press's, trying to compact aluminum cans to minimum size.
All these presses with manual cranks on the side, how do they work?
Are they just mechanical internally?
Are they compressing air?
Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1151591]

>>1151587
Like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqtdfb1dJ5I
What is this wizardry?

[Anonymous No.1151614]

>>1151591
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_machinery#/media/File:Hydraulic_Force_Torque_275px.png

[Anonymous No.1151617]

>>1151614
Took me a sec to get, thanks anon, I'm a silly.

[Anonymous No.1151627]

>>1146223
Didn't find that in any hardware store.
I tried fixing this >>1146107 with glazing putty.
But it didn't hold.
Any other tips?
I'm thinking of using epoxy, or spray foam and shave away the excess.

[Anonymous No.1151669]

Is there any way to lighten the cancellation mark on old postage stamps? This isn't something criminal I'm trying to achieve - I'm talking stamps that are way out of circulation. Some of the ones I have have such a prominent marking that it ruins their appearance so I just want to lighten them up, without wrecking the rest of the stamp.

[Anonymous No.1151681]

Simple audio question:

I have a receiver that outputs 100 W/channel. I have some speakers rated 25-100 W. The speakers are capable of bi amping. If I set up bi amping, is that going to deliver too much power? Or can the high frequencies and low frequencies handle 100 W each?

[Anonymous No.1151735]

What are some cheap projects where I can practice soldering and using my arduino?

[Anonymous No.1151740]

>>1151735
you could try your luck at the Ohm bingo!

Or IDK, make a 7 segment display clock, or counter or something like that.
DIY ESR meter?

[Anonymous No.1151742]

>>1151740
I've done 54 on an Arduino with an LED matrix. Not even that other guy, just saying.

[Anonymous No.1151761]

>>1151535
>I have a 24v 2A 'brick' transformer, would that work?
It will never fully charge the pack.
6S: 6 cells @ 4.2v per cell = 25.2vdc

Just buy a proper one from the same supplier as the BMS

[Anonymous No.1151926]

What are some things I can do with some old aquarium fish pumps? I have an old one and throwing it away seems like a waste. Hopefully you guys can inspire me.

[Anonymous No.1151928]

>>1151926
It's an Elite 799, sorry for not mentioning.

[Anonymous No.1151929]

>>1151926
It's either an Elite 800 or Elite 799. Rather it be the Elite 799 as I think it's slightly louder.

[Anonymous No.1151936]

>>1151926
>aquarium fish pumps
>fish pump

If it pumps air instead of fish you can use it to bubble the etching solution for making circuit boards.
It makes the process go much faster.

[Anonymous No.1151939]

>>1151936
Thank you, I am very good at the English.

[Anonymous No.1152068]

>>1151926
Oxygenate water for plants?

[Anonymous No.1152273]

>>1148324
Could be just the backlight. When it goes off, go right up to the screen with a torch and see if you can still see picture on the LCD.

[Anonymous No.1152275]

>>1149194
Damn 32 bit monitors

[Anonymous No.1152316]

How would I go about attaching a pvc pipe to the side of my house? The siding is wooden so I don't want to use a lot of screws or anything.

The location of the chicken run makes it a hassle to consistently give them fresh water so I figured I could just put a pipe next to the window and clean their water bowl out when I go to feed/collect.

[Anonymous No.1152382]

I wanna get a Betsy Ross flag and give it that rustic battle worn look. What's the best type of material and best method of making it look like it's seen some shit?

[Anonymous No.1152408]

I just drilled through some drywall today.

I didn't go crazy with the drill, I was careful enough to drill just barely past the drywall.

From exactly one out of the 12 holes that I drilled, some water fizzled out. And I mean like a very tiny amount. That was it. Water briefly came out of one hole, and then it stopped.

What could this be? While I wouldn't discount the possibility that I may have drilled through a water pipe, I wasn't drilling quite hard/far enough to penetrate anything other than drywall. Also, if it were a pipe, I find it strange that the "leak" isn't continuing as we speak; it was just a very quick drip that stopped after a few seconds, and I cannot stress that enough.

Right now, I'm thinking that maybe it's rainwater that somehow made it past the roof, and a little bit of it just came out of the drywall. I know that sounds stupid, but I'm trying to make sense out of water coming out of a freshly drilled hole and just stopping after a few seconds.

[Anonymous No.1152417]

>>1152382
If you can research what materials they used for flags during that time, I would use whatever material that is. Failing that, just go for some kind of non-synthetic material.

As for making it look battle-worn, you could always let a re-enactment group borrow it, then collect it from them at the end of their simulation. If there are no re-enactments where you live, then go rough & tumble it yourself. Imagine yourself in a soldier's shoes.

[Anonymous No.1152516]

Whats the best way to repair a crack in a thin, curved piece of plastic?

I knocked one of my pellet guns against something in just the right way to crack the forearm and apparently Crosman doesn't sell individual parts for this model, although even if they did it would probably cost about as much as a new gun with shipping since these are so cheap. It's pretty damn accurate though and I'd hate to break it further or throw it out.

I'm thinking of just getting some kind of epoxy and slathering a thin coat on the forearm. The plastic isn't porous at all so I don't know how much that would help.

[Anonymous No.1152517]

>>1152516
I wrote all this shit and hit submit before I attached the picture, for fuck's sake.

1/2

[Anonymous No.1152519]

>>1152517

[Anonymous No.1152523]

>>1152516
>>1152517
>>1152519

Remove it from the gun. If there is clearance from behind do the repair on the inside.
Adding a layer of some type of mesh with the epoxy would make it more durable.
(fiberglass style)

[Anonymous No.1152524]

>>1152408

What room?
How far up or down the wall?
What room is on the other side of the wall?

[Anonymous No.1152526]

>>1152523
I might try that, it's just this crack happened in pretty much the worst possible spot for that type of repair.

There's a metal cocking arm the forearm is pinned to, and the crack is right on the supports for one of those pins.

What I'd really like to do is make a wood replacement one of these days.

[Anonymous No.1152537]

>>1152524
Bedroom
About 5ft from the floor
No room on the other side

[Anonymous No.1152557]

>>1152068
For hydroponics, or is there something I don't know what?

[Anonymous No.1152558]

>>1150854
Is it the two-wire or one-wire pickup?

[Anonymous No.1152570]

All the paracord I have looks comparatively thin compared to paracord in youtube videos.

Are there different grades of cord? What terms should I search to get fuller or thicker cord?

[Anonymous No.1152673]

Making a router lift using a wooden crank handle attached to M16 threaded rod through a threaded coupling. How do I calculate how far offset the handle has to be from the threaded rod to raise the threaded rod a certain distance?

I realise that question is a mess but hopefully someone knows what I mean.

[Anonymous No.1152681]

>>1152570
weight rating. i got 3 kinds in my standby-pack (red cross SAR) and they are 150kg, 300kg and 600kg. They are about 1.5mm, 2.5mm and 4.5mm. I buy in bulk (spool of 100m) for 20 bucks.

[Anonymous No.1152682]

>>1152681
Also the keyword "nylon woven w/ filament core" usually gets you the chubby kind that is easy to tie and use for tents and holding together gear and stuff.

[Anonymous No.1152912]

>Do they make 30mm M4 rivets?

Putting up a shower curtain in the bathroom, Drilled through the tile but there's nothing behind it for 5cm.

[Anonymous No.1152964]

>>1144666
I just bought a Fluke 179 from a friend at work for $150. Should I buy new probes for it if i plan on doing electronics work, or just stick with the 600v CAT4 rated ones?

Also, was it a good buy?

[Anonymous No.1152965]

>>1144677
Jesus Christ that soldering.

[Anonymous No.1152971]

>>1152570
yeah, you likely have 330 cord. The fatter stuff is called 550 cord.

[Anonymous No.1152972]

Not really DIY as such, but a techie question.

We got this new Sharp 4k LED TV and I really don't like the imagery at all. It could be because I'm watching lower than 4k res stuff on it, but the TV seems to make everything look weird and "cheap". It's something about the way things move. Like it's filmed on camcorder or something.

You become acutely aware that you're watching something fake on a studio set and the - it's hard to explain but our old LG 720-line TV (which was LCD I think) didn't do this.

Has anyone else noticed this kind of thing? Is it a known "phenomenon"?

[Anonymous No.1152980]

>>1152964
its about ave price for a used fluke 179 off ebay, so if its in good physical shape that an ok deal. you can always bitch at him if it breaks (which generally doesn't happen)

the probes are fine as they are for electronics work. i bought a double banana plug and some alligator clips as a second set of attachable probes.

[Anonymous No.1153045]

I want to cast something out of a soft plastic.
What is my best option if I want it to be safe for eating/drinking out of?

[Anonymous No.1153240]

I wanna buy these pyrography stamps to burn my initials into some projects but do I really need the wood burning tool that they screw into? Can I just hold them with pliers and hold them over a gas stove or butane torch and stamp them while still holding them in pliers?

[Anonymous No.1153314]

What's the use for H5 and H6 screwdriver heads?
I've never encountered a use for them before

[Anonymous No.1153370]

I'm trying to replace a broken regulator with one I grabbed from the junkyard and it's fucking my shit up


I had to bend the window holder on the last one to remove it and put on this one, I tried to bend it back but all I have are a couple of different sized pliers

Did I fuck up? Will this affect the smoothness of which the window goes up and down? Those black things slide back and forth to go up and down

What do?

[Anonymous No.1153405]

what would be the best way to go about putting post bases into uneven concrete for a patio roof? google suggests either an elevated post base or ive seen others suggest putting metal washers underneath or cutting the bottom of the wood on a slight angle

[Anonymous No.1153425]

>>1153370

The track won't slide off the glides on the X ?

I haven't changed a lot of regulators but I've always been able to remove and replace them without damaging them.

Sometimes it takes a bit of figuring out what to do.

Yeah, it's probably gonna be bumpy.

[Anonymous No.1153463]

is 600 pound capacity gorilla cart good enough for a standard suurban yard? other option is 800, 1200, or 1500

[Anonymous No.1153465]

>>1153463
Unless you plan on hauling your mom in it, it will be fine.

[Anonymous No.1153483]

>>1153465
for my balls actually

[Anonymous No.1153505]

>>1153463
I have this same gorilla cart and confirm that it's awesome.

just make sure to get the updated one that improves the front swivel.

[Anonymous No.1153508]

>>1153505
yeah apparently "heavy duty" option in each weight class

[Anonymous No.1153548]

>>1153240
Anyone?

[Anonymous No.1153979]

Would a piece of wood (Cocobolo) that's 4" long 1" wide, and 7/8ths thick word for turning to do a fauxpinel knife like pic related if I'm using a knife blade taken from a Leatherman Kick?

Or should I just get a decently sized piece of walnut instead?

[Anonymous No.1153991]

What's a good way to remove or paint over the Seymour Duncan logo on these plastic pickup covers? If sanding is the answer, how can I restore the gloss appearance afterwards?

[Anonymous No.1153993]

What's a good way to remove or paint over the Seymour Duncan logo on these plastic pickup covers? If sanding is the answer, how can I restore the gloss appearance afterwards?

[Anonymous No.1154001]

>>1153993
Just get new pickup covers from someplace like StewMac.

[Anonymous No.1154010]

>>1154001
But that costs money. Also barely anything seems to be the same size, so it could wind up being more work to make it fit.

[Anonymous No.1154020]

Any creative uses for an aquarium?

[Anonymous No.1154022]

>>1154020
I'm also the same guy that has the air pump

[Anonymous No.1154031]

are there any handheld router box/finger joint jigs? i don't have a table saw, bout i'd like to make some boxes with box joints...

[Anonymous No.1154034]

>>1151627
I recommend a circular saw and cutting the entire thing down, but if you don't have a circular saw you could either sand it down so it doesn't tear your clothes, or just turn the damn thing so the bad corner is against a wall. Then you don't have to do shit.

[Anonymous No.1154038]

>>1154020
Giant lava lamp

[Anonymous No.1154049]

>>1154038
Not that interesting to me desu

[Anonymous No.1154091]

>>1144722
When I was younger I had a Learning Lab from Radioshack and it was brilliant. It's long since discontinued but if you can find something like it, it's great.

[Anonymous No.1154093]

>>1145382
The best you're going to get for that price is one of the K40 memelasers, but they will struggle to etch anodized aluminum and steel. If there's a coating to burn through they'll do it, otherwise you'll need to apply one and pray.

[Anonymous No.1154114]

can you use a drywall circle cutter like pic related for wood?

[Anonymous No.1154115]

>>1154114
No.

[Anonymous No.1154158]

i'm trying to get my $60 ewaste 3d printer working, and i melted the plastic around one of the wires going from the 5V part of a 240W ATX PSU. Does this mean I bought shitty wires? Or was I directing 48 A through the wire?

[Anonymous No.1154159]

>>1154020
Vacuum chamber, turn the air pump around and hook it up.

[Anonymous No.1154163]

>>1154158
With no details provided it's not possible to answer that. What gauge wire was it? What material? What did you connect to the wire?

[Anonymous No.1154166]

>>1154163
uhhhh, it was thin multicore wire that comes with an arduino starter kit. It was connect to a HP Compaq PC PSU, to on of the 5 volt pins, going into an arduino mega, which seems undamaged. If I had to guess, I would say that the arduino tried to draw too much power through the wire and fried it, but I'm not an electrician

[Anonymous No.1154167]

>>1154163
it's copper wire, and the wire itself remained intact, just the plastic around it melted

[Anonymous No.1154169]

>>1154166
As long as only the arduino was connected to it, it shouldn't melt even 28-30AWG, yours was probably bigger than that if it was multicore. You might have connected the 5V to ground by accident. Check the arduino if there are any shorts between pins (keep in mind that any digital pin can be connected to ground too), then hook up a multimeter on 10A mode and a new wire. You should get a very small reading, you can look up the normal power draw of whatever arduino version you have, but it should be in the range of 40-60mA.

[Anonymous No.1154170]

>>1154169
ok, thanks for the advice

[Anonymous No.1154173]

>>1144666
how can i use a car relay with arduino? will 40mA be enough for the little cube relays used in cars?

also bridging 2 arduino pins in parallel with a 1 way diode wont make it 80mA output right...

[Anonymous No.1154184]

I'm building a pc case out of wood, any tips?
I've never been satisfied with a market case and finally decided to build one myself.

[Anonymous No.1154186]

>>1154184
Make sure the wood is super dry first so it doesn't warp. Seal the wood, so particulate doesn't get in all your shit. How are you going to do air intakes? Also why wood of all materials? I would think metal would be easier to work with, and less bulky.

[Anonymous No.1154187]

>>1154186
Because my welding skills and kit wont get me far.
Also i have plenty of spare wood so might as well give it a shot.

[Anonymous No.1154191]

>>1154034
I've sanded the edge, but I'll see if I can rearrange the room.
I've inserted some nails and put glazing putty as a way to "fill in" the missing piece, but it didn't hold.
Pic related.
I'm thinking of removing the putty and use this
https://static.rapidonline.com/catalogueimages/Product/S55-1953P01WL.jpg

Is it better?

[Anonymous No.1154198]

>>1154191
>I'm thinking of removing the putty and use this
>https://static.rapidonline.com/catalogueimages/Product/S55-1953P01WL.jpg

>For lubrication of all kinds of high-load sliding surfaces.

You're going to 'fix' it with grease?

The correct material to repair it has already been pointed out to you >>1146223
>File: 1000.jpg

If you can't find that then mix casein glue with plaster-of-paris for a substitute.

[Anonymous No.1154204]

>>1154198
You're right, it's a wrong image.
And I can't find the one I want to post.
It's a tube that contain ceramic like substance that hardens, use mainly in electrical insulation.

[Anonymous No.1154208]

>>1154204
drying hard is only part of it - it also has to bond to whatever you apply it to.
If it dries to a ceramic hardness how will you shape it after it cures to match the corner?
If that's what you want just use a little portland cement and water.

[Anonymous No.1154222]

>>1154208
>how will you shape it after it cures to match the corner
Before it's harden?
I can make some make shift scaffold to hold the shape.
What about epoxy and some fine wood shaving?

[Anonymous No.1154259]

My washer's door gasket ripped. Was out of commision for 8 days before I could source new gasket and install it.

Now stand pipe keeps backing up.

popped off the clean out and it looks slimy but not blocked/clogged for the first 3'+ of it.

Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.1154262]

Anyone recognize the brand/model of this outdoor accent LED? I went to Home Depot and asked a few employees, none of whom recognized it.

[Anonymous No.1154263]

I need to come up with some sort of improvised lathe so I can file down this center cap to fit my wheel correctly. Right now I'm thinking of clamping a corded drill to my bench, then using a bolt in the drill with some nuts and washers to clamp the cap in place. Can anyone thing of something that might work better or be a little safer feeling?

[Anonymous No.1154322]

>>1153979
Any turners? (I've never used a lathe before)

[Anonymous No.1154369]

Is Tesa Tape suitable for a headphone repair? Pic related. The pleather from my headphoens is cracked and disgusting.

[Anonymous No.1154498]

>>1154259
>popped off the clean out and it looks slimy

If by 'clean out' you mean the trap, put it back in place.
pour a quart of bleach down the pipe - use a funnel if it's difficult to access the pipe
wait 20 minutes and pour boiling water down the pipe until it either comes close to filling or you realize it's cleared

[Anonymous No.1154505]

>>1154263
>file down this center cap to fit my wheel correctly

rubber mallet

[Anonymous No.1154511]

>>1144666
what would I need to make a device to destroy someones cell phone while they are using it, without doing any damage to the person?

Like a microwave gun that doesn't cause cancer

[Anonymous No.1154566]

>>1144677
Your solders blow donkey dick but it should still work. The excess solder shouldn't cause an issue there and unless it doesn't work due to the trash solders don't waste your money.

Good tools: practice fucking soldering

[Anonymous No.1154594]

>>1154369
I'd try it. It's great for auto wiring harnesses.

[Anonymous No.1154636]

>>1144666
How do you remove parts with a soldier wick?

I ordered a kit from a chink site, because I suck at soldering, and want to get better. I installed one capacitor backwards, then attempted to wick it out. Ended up burning some plastic on adjacent pin headers (I can easily enough replace that). After several attempts, I just clipped it off, but the leads are still stuck. How do you do this? I'm about ready to order a tiny bit to drill it out.

[Anonymous No.1154644]

>>1154636
Add more solder and slide it out while it's hot. Use the wick after taking out the leads.

[Anonymous No.1154647]

>>1154636
Heat one lead, pull a bit, cool for a second
Heat other lead, pull a bit, cool
repete

Or if possible, hit both leads at the same time with the iron to pull it out.

Clean up with wick or by blowing through a straw if the holes are closed

[Anonymous No.1154698]

Are there any portable heaters that offer better than 1kW=1kW heating? I know the fancy aircon systems have it but that is not something I can do as a renter.

[Anonymous No.1154699]

How do I pick this goddamn bathroom door lock? It locked me out when I shut it and I have to take a shit.

[Anonymous No.1154700]

>>1154699
Hard to tell you mangled it so badly. If you are lucky a small flathead screwdriver. Not 'eye glasses repair kit' small, but like one size up from that.

[Anonymous No.1154720]

Having a hard wood floor for the first time in the bedroom in a new extension. So, how much do I need to sand the floor before applying varnish to it?

I've got access to a hand held vibration sander, would hiring a more industrial solution be overkill?

[Anonymous No.1154746]

Hello, I have a really stupid question about DIY house building, what are the average cost (in percentage) for a basic house ?
example :
50% wall material
5% electrical furnitures
5% water installation
20% insulation
20% life furnitures
I want a kind of estimation, nothing ultra specific

If i'm in the wrong broad, just say it

[Anonymous No.1154763]

How would I go about on logging my diy projects? Would I have to write down changes /accomplishments, goals, etc? Would I need to take pictures and all that? What about posting them online? Is a blog good or are forums better? I've also considered using Twitter. I work on electronics and have currently been working on fixing a cassette player. I usually keep to myself on my projects, but I feel like logging my work would help me keep track of it all, and it would be a good way to put myself our there and motivate me. I also feel like it would help me connect out there and get to know more people with these hobbies. Any recommendations?

[Anonymous No.1154770]

>>1154698
>portable heaters

They are designed to be plugged into a standard 15A electric socket.
I have one earlier than your model which has selector switches for 600W and 900W if both are on it's 1500W.
That's about the limit for a 15A outlet with any margin of safety.

[Anonymous No.1154771]

>>1154699

If it doesn't use a flat-blade 'key' like a pocket screwdriver to twist the shaft inside, just push on the little plate inside to hole.

When it 'clicks' it's unlocked.

[Anonymous No.1154773]

>>1154699
>bathroom door lock?

If it doesn't use a flat-blade 'key' like a pocket screwdriver to twist the shaft inside, just push on the little plate inside the hole.

When it 'clicks' it's unlocked.

[Anonymous No.1154789]

>>1153240
>>1153548
well i mean, you can, but youre probably going to fuck up the threads on them pretty badly. im going to take a guess that theyre brass, which is relatively soft as far as metals go. the benefits of screwing it into a burning iron are that you get a better grip on it, so youll have more control over its placement. on top of that, the heat from the iron will be consistent, so your marks should be consistent colors if you keep your pressure consistent.

>>1153979
its been a few years since ive used a lathe myself, but so long as you can keep your piece in the lathe you should be able to turn it just fine. ive never turned cocobolo, but most dense hardwoods tend to do fine on a lathe.

>>1154263
unless you have a lathe, a drill is your next closest thing. it looks like youll be cutting though the paint, so keep that in mind before you put it on for good.

>>1154699
many locking doorknobs for indoor use have a pin in their center that you can easily press with a paper clip.

[Anonymous No.1154797]

>>1154763
Twitter allows you just one or two short sentences, it's definitely not well suited. A blog or a vlog seems to be the typical choice, there's a good number of people on YouTube doing various /diy/ shit. Of course, if you don't put much effort into producing the videos you won't attract many viewers, and conversely if you do, it'll eat up a lot of time that you could be using to actually work on something.

[Anonymous No.1154920]

What is a cheap laser setup that would enable me to cut ~2 inch foam effectively? Looking to make custom foam cases for guns/etc.

I already have a cnc router, just need the laser part.

[Anonymous No.1154927]

>>1154920
Best cheap lasers you can get are around 5W for $100-ish from China, might not be super fast though. Why not use an actual foam cutter though? Something like
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252771421242
Quite a lot cheaper, probably faster too

[Anonymous No.1154933]

>>1154927

Dude, I've been wondering if that exists. I know handheld foamcutters exist but the ones I've seen have a loop of wire like pic related. I might buy one like you posted and strap it to the cnc router.

[Anonymous No.1154938]

>>1154933
It's my plan as well, I haven't actually done it yet since it's in the mail, but for that price it's probably worth a try. It takes a 12V input at about 2 amps, you can look around the ebay listings until you find one that has the right specs.

[Anonymous No.1154966]

>>1154920
I'd it's the black egg crate foam, the 1.6W lasers should do it just down. They're also fairly cheap. Higher wattage is better for this obviously, since you can move quicker.

[Anonymous No.1155000]

I got rear-ended on my motorcycle, no mechanical damage, but the rear fender (metal) is crushed, and the brake light housing/ red lenses part finally fell off. I bought an LED strip brake light to put on so I have some sort of red brake light, but it says if I want to use it as a running light AND a brake light, I need a "kit". This kit consists of a $25 wire that I'm assuming has a resistor on it. I don't know much about electrical wiring, is there a cheap way I can rig this brake light to also work as a running light?

The bike has 3 wires going to the stock brake light. One is a ground, one is for running, the other is for braking.

[Anonymous No.1155217]

>>1154933
I actually got the thing today
>wire is pretty bendy, it's better to get the shorter versions if you don't explicitly need the long one
>the handle overheats, probably better to remove it and directly bolt the metal parts to some mounting
>max temperature on 12V is enough to cut PS but it was very difficult to cut that soft foam they tend to line cases with, might need higher voltage
>15cm version is approximately 15W on 12V
>heat distribution seemed pretty even, didn't do any thorough tests though

[Anonymous No.1155411]

What's the best type of sand for rammed earth walls?

[Anonymous No.1155437]

Can I use this compound sliding miter saw with metal cutoff wheels for light duty cutting? It's 15 amps (peak I'm assuming) and spins at 4800 rpm.

[Anonymous No.1155540]

>>1155217

Thanks for the update. I ordered two of the blue-handled ones (grand total was like $25 after shipping). So even if the experiment fails, at least it was cheap.

[Anonymous No.1155543]

I'm building a heavy and chunky digital power supply out of amplifier transformers, I plan using black acrylic for the case since it looks really cool with white 7 segment displays placed underneath.
However I don't know what to use to make the frame, are aluminum extruded beams with cubes for the corners (bottom left) the way to go? Is there a better way to do this?

[Anonymous No.1155698]

I want to use plywood for shelves, if i just paint it will it last a long time or do i need to do anything else? Don't know shit about wood.

[Anonymous No.1155709]

I'm looking to build a hanging shower curtain holder like the one in the photo. For some reason, companies all seem to think they should charge several hundred dollars for these.

The few cheap ones I've found are incredibly poorly constructed and not worth the hassle. The one currently installed over my clawfoot tub is leaning at a crazy angle and is falling apart. It seems to be one of the super cheap ones.

How difficult would it be to build something similar with stuff I can get at HD/Local Hardware Store? It seems like chromed brass or chromed copper would fit the bill, but I wasn't sure on the curved portions.

As for the mounting points, I can go ceiling, wall, or both.

[Anonymous No.1156043]

>>1155709
yeah tell me about it - the price for these are outrageous. I found one at a garage sale for a few bucks. haven't installed yet so don't know if it's a "good" one yet... if I hadn't found that at the sale I was thinking of just going with metal conduit pipe; bend it into the size I need and paint it with a tough spray paint. I was thinking oil rubbed bronze for the color. chroming would be ridiculous and it would show every tiny flaw in your pipe and bends. you could just go with actual copper pipe; bend it, polish it, clear coat it. or let it patina then clear coat it.

[Anonymous No.1156213]

>>1156043
cont.
the issue I see with the finishing of whatever you build yourself is that the shower curtain rings will be rubbing on it - so my thinking is the finish needs to be something you can re-finish periodically easily and cheaply. that's why I'm thinking the oil rubbed bronze spray paint.

[Anonymous No.1156219]

>>1154699
looks to me like the circle in the center is the 'lock'. the oblong hole in the middle looks like its been bent all out of shape. I would guess it originally was a slot - a slot that a standard flat screwdriver would turn. it looks like its still enough of a slot shape that a flat head screwdriver would probably still turn it - don't know direction (clockwise or counter clockwise) to unlock... obviously just try both directions, one will unlock it.
otherwise many home doors use the 'key' >>1154773 this poster pictured. a small thin flat blade screwdriver would work just as well to turn the internal lock mech. or as another poster said, some just need something like a paperclip pushed straight in to 'pop' it unlocked.

[Anonymous No.1156231]

>>1148690
aka 'sap'

[Anonymous No.1156232]

>>1148349
its easy. even easier if you have the air powered roofing nailer.

[Anonymous No.1156301]

Anyone has that image of the anon thar repaired a box and had a crying spurdo of happiness with a screwdriver?