[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / ic / jp / lit / sci / vr / vt ] [ index / top / reports ] [ become a patron ] [ status ]
2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


View post   

File: 1.89 MB, 2880x2160, 20160909_223440.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052754 No.1052754 [Reply] [Original]

Electrician here. Ask Me Anything.

>> No.1052759

>>1052754
Can you show us your credit card front and back?

>> No.1052761
File: 1.80 MB, 2880x2160, 20160911_072332.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052761

>>1052759
Sure can!

>> No.1052762

>>1052754
I want to become a sparkie but have no knowledge of anything. Where to start?

What maths, what to read etc

>> No.1052764

what would human skin turn out like if you stripped it off a body and tanned it? would it be flexible enough to make stuff with?

>> No.1052765

>>1052762
Search for courses online. Schooling isn't required but it will make you a better electrician.

Also you could research things like ohms law and ohms wheel, aka pier chart.

Know how amps (current), volts(potential energy), watts(volts x Amps), and ohms (resitance) relate to each other.

Research basic voltages in your country. In America it's 120v (aka 110, and 115) 220v (aka 210, 230) 277v and 480v (aka 460)

Learn the difference between hot wire neutral wire and ground wire.

But the only real way to get into it is get a job as an apprentice. The pay sucks but you'll learn quick.

>> No.1052768
File: 51 KB, 321x450, LampshadeJewishFace.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052768

>>1052764
Yeah, pretty sure the nazis made lamp shades and wallets out of the joos

>> No.1052771

>>1052764
Also try to be a union electrician. Better pay better benefits. I work for private contractors and it sucks

If you can't join a union, at least try to be commercial.

>> No.1052772

>>1052771
Was meant for
>>1052762

>> No.1052775

If you touch the live to one nut and the neutral to another, do you jizz like a madman?

>> No.1052786
File: 37 KB, 640x460, 220voutlets-Wire-diagrams-easy-simple-detail-baja-designs-trailer-light-220v-outlet-wiring-diagram.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052786

>>1052775
You need 220v, but yes. Put one wire on each nut and cram the ground up your ass, next to the prostate. Ever see Scary Movie? You'll get something like that

>> No.1052809

>>1052754

How much money do you earn and how many years of experience do you have?

>> No.1052812

What did you do to learn? I'm a general contractor thinking of specializing

>> No.1052818

>>1052809
7 years of experience, last year I made ~70k. But that's 350 hours OT And a shit load of sidework. My base is 45k with full benefits. But other guys in the company I work in are making about 53k, base.
>>1052812
Worked in an apprentice program.
During the day I worked for a local contractor, $8/hr, getting yelled at by old men.

3 days a week, for four years, I spent 3hours a night in class, after work.

Did it suck? Yes. But I'm currently applying for my license and soon, it will all be worth it.

>> No.1052821
File: 2.33 MB, 3400x6044, 20160429_090433-3400x6044.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052821

>>1052754
Residential I hate it. nice t&b crimpers


>Commercial and Industrial here

>> No.1052825

>>1052821
Eh renos and new work ain't too bad. It's that old work shit and service calls that I can't stand.

But yes, commercial and industrial are far superior.

But ill take whatever I can get.

Currently my cousin and I flip houses. Once I get that L, I'll be giving my rich ass construction business owning uncle a call.

>> No.1052838

>>1052818

I thought electricians earned more. I guess that's just union jobs.

One more question. I was installing some wall sockets and noticed that neutral is connected to ground somewhere, is this normal?

>> No.1052844

Hey OP my grandpa was an electrician for like 40 years, he and another electrician opened their own service and made decent money, makes me wish I had gotten into it. Good luck!

>> No.1052849

>>1052754
I've just about to start an apprenticeship in either electrical or HVACR, I live in Melbourne Australia, would you recommend a job in Power or Rail or in HVAC I can't decide what to do,

>> No.1052850

I was actually about to start a thread asking for an electrician's opinion

First off, the obvious question. How dangerous is it? How much control do you have on whether or not you get electrocuted? Is it a "he was dumb" thing or a "he got unlucky" thing?

Hows the wear on your body? Are you broken down by the time you're retired?

How difficult is it to get an apprenticeship? Assuming I went through some schooling first?

And, the biggest question, I'm looking to find my "real" job (not a mcjob, or bumming around with friends, or any of that barely paying stuff) at 28 years old. Is it too late to deal with apprenticeships and all that? Is there a "cult of youth" that would hold me back? I hear a big part of apprenticeship is ditch digging. Would I just be getting outpaced by younger guys?

>> No.1052851

>>1052850
If you play it safe you won't get shocked but there are times we're necessity calls for you to work something live and at that point it's basically up to you and your hands weather you get shocked or not

As for apprenticeship it depends where you're at down here it seems like they're giving them away and at my company our oldest apprentices 42 years old

And at the age of 28 that's when most apprentices are starting currently on the youngest Foreman in my company and I'm 28 the rest of them are in there mid forties too late fifties

Also depending on which area you go into it could be residential commercial or Industrial all depends on what your apprenticeship is like and the sooner you get licensed the more pay you get

>> No.1052855

>>1052851
>If you play it safe you won't get shocked but there are times we're necessity calls for you to work something live and at that point it's basically up to you and your hands weather you get shocked or not

Would these necessity live wire jobs be potentially fatal? You say "shocked," but do you mean dead shocked, paralyzed shocked, or trick lighter shocked? Any stories of how and why things went wrong?

On that topic, I've done some siding work with shady people. I've dealt with what I felt were dangerous ladder setups. But this was shady siding guys I was working with. Do you deal with that as an electrician, or is the potential danger respected more? If I look up information about electrician work, whatever website I'm reading will emphasize safety but are the actual employers and workers obsessed with it?

>> No.1052856

>>1052838
All grounds are connected to all neutrals in the main panel, and only in the main panel.

>> No.1052859

>>1052855
Working with electricity there's always a chance you'll get shocked. but it depends what you are working with if it's an outlet you're just going to get a little shock but if its 240 and above the chances of walking away have been greatly reduced but there are tools made specifically to work certain jobs live it just depends whether you buy them or your employer supply them to you as for the safety aspect it all depends on your employer's and your fellow employees the basic mindset is always treat everything as its live whether you know it's dead or not. Being shocked is basically an occupational hazard it will happen but 9 times out of 10 it's only working on outlets and switches your sense of awareness goes way up when working on anything more than that but that being said being shocked is the least of your worries it's the job sites and the hazards that come with the job sites that are more of a danger than anything else.


Safety is always in the back of everyone's mind but there are times where you have to say screw it just to get the job done it comes with the job it's just whether you're willing to take the risk or not


As for me I'll never go back to anything else I love what I do I like the people I work with and the places I get to see that was fucking hot as hell here in Florida

>> No.1052860

>>1052844
Thanks. My plan is to open my own company and grow it big enough to sell when I'm ready to retire.

In the meantime I'll put aside 15% of my earnings and try to pay off my duplex by the time I'm 40.

All things considered I should be on cozy old bastard
>>1052849
>>>1052754 (OP) (You)
> Power or Rail

I don't understand what you mean by this.

But I'm biased and I'd say go the electrical route. It works for me anyway

>> No.1052863

>>1052859
One question you missed, how's the wear and tear on your body? Overtime aside, how beat up are you after an average day? How do the guys working in the field for years hold up?

>> No.1052864

>>1052850
>I was actually about to start a thread asking for an electrician's opinion
>First off, the obvious question. How dangerous is it? How much control do you have on whether or not you get electrocuted? Is it a "he was dumb" thing or a "he got unlucky" thing?

99% of the time, it's a dumb thing. If your cautious take your time, follow lock out tag out, always carry the proper testing tools, and never EVER EVER believe some foreman or Co worker when he says "the powers off". Consider it a lie.

As for getting shocked, theres no such thing as an electrician who hasn't been hit. It's impossible to be that careful all the time.

That being said, linemen is the most dangerous job in the country IIRC. but that's if your choose to be a lineman.

>Hows the wear on your body? Are you broken down by the time you're retired?

I'd say no. There's a lot of spry old electricians. Wear the proper personal protection equipment (eye pro, ear pro, knee pads, GLOVES,) and don't lift stuff like a jackals and you'll be fine
>How difficult is it to get an apprenticeship? Assuming I went through some schooling first?

I went through 4 years of training and 4 years of night school. It sucked, but if I had to go back I'd do it all over again

>And, the biggest question, I'm looking to find my "real" job (not a mcjob, or bumming around with friends, or any of that barely paying stuff) at 28 years old. Is it too late to deal with apprenticeships and all that? Is there a "cult of youth" that would hold me back? I hear a big part of apprenticeship is ditch digging. Would I just be getting outpaced by younger guys?

Out paced by younger guys? Eh. Not really.

Are you too old? That's a personal call. I'd say your biggest problem is kids are willing to work for next to nothing. For example, my dumb green ass was working for 8$/hr at 19. So 4 years of shit pay to open all sorts of doors for you down the road. It's a small price in my book. But I started when I was young.

>> No.1052865
File: 765 KB, 1981x2084, 20160911_111403~2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052865

>>1052838
>>1052856
250.92

>> No.1052866

>>1052864
>>1052859
Well you answered the question the other guy missed, so I guess I'm good. Thanks to both of you.

>> No.1052867

>>1052768
Ed Gein made a lampshade from skin as well

>> No.1052869

>>1052866
Basically if you still want to be active as electrician after you retire do your time quickly learn as much as you can and open your own business that is the way to save your body

>> No.1052871

>>1052850
>>1052855
I'm not the guy you replied to but, if your this much of a pussy about getting shocked and sketchy ladders, maybe you should get a comfy office job and not work in the trades.

>> No.1052878

>>1052871
I'm curious as to how accidents happen, how preventable they are, and how seriously safety measures are taken. Seems like a fair line of questioning for a potentially dangerous field.

>> No.1052880

>>1052871
I agree with you about being shocked to an extent. A lot of people aren't that familiar with how harmless it is 99% of the time and how easy it is to avoid.

As for the ladder thing? You might think you sound Macho, but you sound like a fucking idiot. If I ever caught one of my workers doing something unsafe on a ladder, they'd be immediately dismissed.

If my electrician is doing it, then he's having his apprentice do it too. He's now a double liability to himself, the apprentice, other workers on the job, the costumer, my company, and my workers comp insurance.

A fall from a 4ft ladder has the potential to seriously fuck you up. Youre a jackass.
>>1052855
Any respectable business man values safety. If you have a employer who isn't obsessed with safety, then he's probably not going to be in business for to long because he's an idiot and a bad business man. Safety 1st. Always.

Don't be afraid to contact osha or insist for any safety gear your employer may be required to supply. If he refuses my best advice is seek employment elsewhere.

>> No.1052881

>>1052866
While we're on the subject, the best way to avoid injury is to be in good shape and be flexible.

>> No.1052894

>>1052878
Yep, fair enough. I guess all I'm Trying to say is, if you work in the trades your going to get hurt sometimes. It's part of the deal.


>>1052880
>Youre a jackass.
Thanks bro
You're a pretentious douche bag.

>> No.1052900

>>1052754
I have a ee degree, how difficult would it be if I wanted to become a full time electrician?

>> No.1052902

>>1052894
Have fun in your wheelchair

>> No.1052909

>>1052754
Welder here.
In what common situations do I risk getting shocked when welding? I'm kinda worried about that sometimes.

They didn't talk much about that in trade school, surprisingly.

>> No.1052915

>>1052909
High humidity and wet situations
I don't know much about welding on a job site I was on we had a welder Die in a pit because he got hung up on his welding gear

>> No.1052917

>>1052915
Yeah, they did talk about wet conditions a bit.
I forgot to mention that I'm more of a fab shop welder.

>> No.1052923

>>1052909
I have no idea, I've never operated a welder. From what I understand as long as you don't complete the circuit while running the welder, theres fairly low risk? I don't know to be honest anon.

What is the voltage output of your welder?

>> No.1052925

>>1052923
Usually it goes from 9 to a bit less than 30 I think.
We didn't get taught a lot of electrical notions aside from what we needed to know to adjust the welding parameters.

>> No.1052932

>>1052902
Have fun being a fat lazy office slob

>> No.1052942
File: 1.10 MB, 2880x2160, 20160911_134124.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052942

>>1052932
Guess again asshole.

>>1052917
>>1052925
>>1052915
>>1052909
At those volts, it's unlikely, but still possible to be killed.

I say still possible, because it's the power, not volts that kill you. I understand those things produce a ton of power, so yes, under the right conditions they can kill.

Youre a shop welder? Yeah I dunno. Don't become the path of least resistance between the stinger and the ground and I'd have to assume you'd be ok.

>> No.1052944

>>1052754
How's the tool backpack working out?

>> No.1052945

>>1052942
Yeah, volts are low, but amperage is super high.

>> No.1052953

>>1052942
>Guess again asshole
HGTV watching weekend warrior.

>> No.1052956

how do I make a glove stun gun

>> No.1052957
File: 3.49 MB, 2880x2160, 20160911_140124.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052957

>>1052944
It's alright I guess. It's annoying to use as an everyday toolbar, but good if you have to haul a shit load of tools up onto a roof. I use it to carry all my power tools and batteries around.
>>1052953
Keep guessing

>> No.1052958
File: 1.55 MB, 2880x2160, 20160911_140355.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052958

>>1052953
>>1052957
As a matter of fact, give up.

>> No.1052960

>>1052909
When you weld reverse polarity (work is live and your gun/stick is ground). I had a retard tech. who did this on large work and someone got shocked (but he's fine).

>> No.1052961

Why the 12v recip saw when your drill/drivers are 18v?

>> No.1052963

>>1052961
Eh. Idk to be honest. I have a corded one for heavy duty jobs, and a 12v for light jobs, jobs with a lot of conduit.

Also I liked it because it's one handed and brushless.

>> No.1052964

>>1052957
>ranger work truck
Send more pics of your cringe worthiness

>> No.1052967

>>1052964
Stay salty pussy. Don't get mad at me because your stuck with some shady contractor who makes you use shit ladders paying you shit and I'm out here making dough flipping properties, and all you can do is throw shade from behind a computer.

>> No.1052968

>>1052964
>hating on 90's rangers
i bet you think mazda b series are bad trucks too.

>> No.1052971
File: 2.30 MB, 3400x6044, 20160719_180917-3400x6044.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052971

>>1052958
A Wiggie ( a solenoid based voltmeter for those who don't know)

I wish I could carry around lite tools like that most of the stuff I get to do is all rigid pipe or it's a new Marina

>> No.1052972

>>1052971
Heh? What's wrong with a wiggy??
It's quick, dependable, and you don't even need to look at it.

Unless you're on a trouble shooting service call, that and a tick tracer are all you need. I mostly use that fluke there, because I trouble shoot a lot.

>> No.1052974

>>1052967
>I'm out here making dough
>drive 93 ranger
OK

>flipping
I literally do the same thing, quit pouting.

>> No.1052975

What in the world does non residential consist of?
I'm looking to get in as an apprentice, currently within my 2nd week of apprenticeship in construction and I'm gonna guess that (once you've actually learned the trade) an electrician's job requires less physically demanding labor?

>> No.1052978
File: 2.35 MB, 3600x6400, 20160726_134413-3600x6400.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052978

>>1052972
My company won't let me use it they say it's a safety hazard because they blow apart in your hand
I like them too as for tick Tracer I've had them fail too many times( damn death sticks) I won't let my apprentices use them they like using them for hot checks but that doesn't tell you if you've got a loose neutral or ground and Harbor Freight was the worst invention for apprentices they didn't show up with that stupid little red box or some cheap Chinese amprobe

> good idea for buying the right tools and using the right tools this shows you take pride in your work and you aren't in it just for a paycheck since you're willing to spend money back into yourself to perform your job better

It's more than what I can say for a lot of electrical contractors around where I work

>> No.1052979
File: 90 KB, 1024x768, Transit-van-Ladder-Rack.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052979

>>1052974
Everybody needs a starter. I used to do my sidework out of a Honda.

>pic related

My goal
>>1052975
Well with commercial, theres far less fishing wires behind walls, aesthetics don't matter nearly as much, everything is run through surface mounted conduit, theres no old ladies or housewives, theres far less cramming yourself into crawl spaces and broiling attics.

For the most part it's cleaner, easier work. And there's far less code involved.

For the most part.

>> No.1052981

>>1052974
Everybody needs a big fancy or a big fancy truck to get the job done especially for the type of work this gentleman does it would cost more in fuel and maintenance then it would for him just to keep driving his truck most likely it's reliable cheap and easy to fix and parts are readily available if something does go wrong that can't be said the same for a newer vehicle my boss just bought 5 brand new Transit vans and three of them within the first 20 thousand miles had been down in the shop for the past 2 weeks due to the lack of parts so those $40,000 plus Investments arent making him any money

>> No.1052983

>>1052981
Doesn't need is what I meant to say

>> No.1052984
File: 354 KB, 240x200, 1462640714036.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1052984

>>1052978
Really? Hm. I've never heard of that.

As for tick tracers, the only three brands I'll use are milwaukee klien and fluke. But yeah they are less than %100 dependable. I have 2 uses for them, 1. Checking wires before I cut through them with a $50 pair of dikes, and determining the hot when I run into knob and tube. Not to tap off them, I just like knowing which wire to be cautious with.

But yeah, I'm a bit of a tool snob. I like things that are dependable and will last a lifetime. Or as close as possible
>>1052981
Wow are the really that undependable?

>tfw harbor freight

>> No.1052985

>>1052981
>gentleman
Shots fired

>> No.1052986

>>1052984
No they are reliable it's just the job sites we work on are a bit harsh on vehicles especially the transit since they sit lower crushed oil pan crushed exhaust and one of them one of our guys decide to get stuck and thought it would be a good idea to tie a snatch rope around the back axle instead of the 12000 pound tow hitch that was installed on the back of it
Knob and tube is plentiful down here in Florida for residential when I first got in the trade on my very first job had knob and tube I've kept a knob in my tool bag since I first started working

>> No.1052988

>thread about electricity
>muh work truck brands

And here I thought /diy/ was less retarded than the other boards.

>> No.1052989

>>1052754
Who is electraifu?
Eddison or Tesla?

>> No.1052990

>>1052985
Look it takes a special kind of person to work as an electrician we're all a bit nuts so best not get on their bad side hence gentlemen( could have called him a faggot or a nigger but he just doesn't fit that douchebag bill) though Sparky would be a better name for him

>> No.1052992

>>1052989
>Tesla

Edison that lying, cheating, stealing fat fuck

>> No.1052993

>>1052992
>lying, cheating, stealing fat fuck
A true American

>> No.1052995

>>1052989
>>1052992
Tesla, easy. He gave us ac and the ac motor.

>> No.1053000

>>1052754
Is it possible to practically run a house on DC yet? I've seen DC refrigerators so we must be pretty close.

>> No.1053009

>>1053000
I'm sure it is. There's just no reason to.

>> No.1053019

>>1053009
Solar

>> No.1053020

>>1052754

Do you think a standard 40 hour entry-level (pre-apprenticeship?) course like this one

https://registration.xenegrade.com/swboces/courseDisplay.cfm?schID=2723

would help things along in becoming a Solar PV Installer? I may be eligible for state aid to completely cover the cost

>> No.1053030

>>1053019
Inverters are 99% efficient.

But to answer your question, from an electrician's standpoint, DC motors (which is all a fridge woukd need) DC capacitors, and transformers already exist. No reason we couldn't as I far as I know. I have just basic knowledge of electronic circuitry tho.

It's probably just the fact that solar panels aren't main stream, therfore there is no need to convert all of house hold appliances to dc.

>> No.1053031

>>1053020
A bit steep in price. My 1st year apprentice course was cheaper and we'll under $800

>> No.1053034

>>1052754
How did your dad take it?

>> No.1053035

>>1052754
What's it like working for gene Olson in new jersey?

>> No.1053037

>>1053031
Well over 40hrs, is what I meant to say

>> No.1053040

>>1053035
Kek. I'll have to be more careful about pics I post on 4chan.

He was a solid dude.

>> No.1053258

>>1052979
>everything is run through surface mounted conduit
>aesthetics don't matter
Choose one. I watched the electricians run conduit on a construction site when I first started. Works of art, seeing 10-15 pipes all bend at precisely the right place in sequence over hundreds of feet, like a custom set of headers on a big block. That's aesthetics, having your work on display for the next 30-40 years.

>> No.1053279

Rewiring my house from a mixture of knob and tube and ancient fabric coated two conductor.

Just verify for me that I'm not totally retarded and doing things wrong.

Had a new drop from the pole installed into a new (used) breaker box to replace screw in fuses. Also upgraded service from the line that had been there from the 40s.

I've rewired almost everything now except light fixtures and a few outlets here and there.

I used 15 amp breakers for all but HVAC and welder hookup. All new wire is 12 gauge. All outlets rated for 15 amp.

When I spliced outlet to outlet I used the outlet screws to bridge the circuit. I am now feeling like that was the incorrect way and I should return with pigtails and wire caps and bridge through caps instead of outlets. If That's the case, how much wire should typically be left in the box to allow that?

In the breaker box, the old system had a few grounded plugs. It had the ground and negative sharing the large negative bus bar. I wired it the same way and the little tester I got didn't pick up a problem, but I'd rather look like an idiot on the internet than in front of the fire department. I haven't found a dedicated ground line outside buried, but there's also a huge amount of foilage that has grown up and covered the rear of this old house.


Finally, there are no lights or electrical outlets in the basement. What's the typical code for dealing with those? Currently have contractor lights and extension cords to make due.

>> No.1053289

What sort of union job do you reckon is the best

>> No.1053300

Why doesn't my ticker light up when I check a shared neutral in a 3 phase system when there is indeed voltage on that white?

>> No.1053328

>>1053279
From the sounds of it you've done everything right, but only thing I would do is check and find a dedicated
ground but it also might be out in your meter can but it's supposed to be in your main panel

As for the way you wired your Outlets technically you're not supposed to do it that way but it works just fine if I recall they are not listed to carry current to another Outlet or something like that

As for your last question someone else will have to jump in on this as I am not a residential electrician but I do believe somewhere in the code book it states per square footage of wall you're supposed to have an outlet

>> No.1053332

>>1053300
You're asking an electrical engineering question I've got a few guesses but I'm not going to say cuz it be talking out my ass

Just don't touch that bitch when there's a load on it it will be the worst shock of your life (if you make it that is)
He shared neutral is the worst idea in my opinion ever created for electrical code 9 times Outta 10 The Breakers in different tied together like this supposed to be and I also still to this day think it's the most dangerous wire out of all electricity( I've been hung up on a neutral and couldn't get off)

>> No.1053338

Why do kids love the taste if cinnamon toast crunch?

>> No.1053690

>>1053258
Kek of course aesthetics still matter. But no one is going to complain that there's a scuff on the wall, theres no designer outlet covers, theres no ivory Colored EMT, no one cares that MC is ugly as sin. Even EMT is ugly in a residential setting. If you happen to drill a 1/4 inch hole for an anchor that you have to abandon cause it's in the wrong spot, it's not a big deal when it's 20 ft high in a wearhouse. You don't have to patch the hole, then match the paint.

Work should always look professional, no real electrician will debate that.

Ya feel me?
>>1053289
Commercial
>>1053300
Something to do with electrical theory, I know neutrals typically don't set off tickets tracers. Not 100% sure to be totally honest
>>1053332
Correct. Shared neutrals are typically a no no
>>1053338
That shit is delicious.
>>1053279
I'll get back to in about 2 hours when I'm not busy,

>> No.1053732

>>1053279

>I used 15 amp breakers for all but HVAC and welder hookup. All new wire is 12 gauge. All outlets rated for 15 amp.

Microwaves need a dedicated 20 amp circuit
bathroom outlets need to be on a 20 amp gfci protected circuit (they can all share the circuit, but the circuit itself must be for bathroom outlets only... an alternative is having a dedicated 20 amp circuit feed each bathroom, lights and all, again, must be gfci.)
Washers must be on dedicated 20 amp gfci circuit
Gas furnace must be on dedicated 20 amp circuit.
No less than 2 dedicated 20 amp gfci protected circuits have to feed your kitchen counter top/appliance circuits.

The good news is you used 12 wire, which is rated for 20 amps. So some of these issues may be as simple as a breaker swap out.

>When I spliced outlet to outlet I used the outlet screws to bridge the circuit. I am now feeling like that was the incorrect way and I should return with pigtails and wire caps and bridge through caps instead of outlets. If That's the case, how much wire should typically be left in the box to allow that?

The bridged method is fine enough I guess, although I do prefer pigtails.
When I do it I have the wires come bend in such a way so that the go to the center and back of the box, then from there, poke out of the box.
Take your hand and make a fist. Put the pinky side of your fist up against the box. The wires should come and inch past the thumb side. That last inch is for stripping to make the splice.

>In the breaker box, the old system had a few grounded plugs. It had the ground and negative sharing the large negative bus bar.
Grounds and neutrals(what you call negative) can share the same Bus bar. One neutral per screw terminal, but as many as three grounds per terminal.

>Finally, there are no lights or electrical outlets in the basement.

The minimum is one light, close enough to the breaker box so you can see what your doing, and one gfci protected outlet. If you have more than (cont)

>> No.1053734

>>1053732
Three steps, you need 3 way switches at the top and bottom.

Also, 15 amp outlets are permissible on a 20 amp circuit

BUT 20 amp outlers aren't allowed on a 15 amp circuit. So you're good there too.

>> No.1053759

If voltage decreases ________ increases.?

>> No.1053763
File: 38 KB, 639x800, 1470928551731.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1053763

>>1053759
Assuming power stays the same, amperage.

>> No.1053770

>>1052762
Head to the local union.

>> No.1053782

Complete noob here. I want to power 9 LEDs by a 10v usb. How many resistors do i need?

>> No.1053787

>>1053782
>How many resistors do i need?
nine

>> No.1053803
File: 27 KB, 320x272, possum.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1053803

>>1053782
Idk meng. Youre asking a commercial/residential electrician circuitry questions. It's not exactly my Forte. Got any numbers that can do the math with?

>> No.1053809

>>1053787
No.
>>1053782
You can put some of your LEDs in series. How many can go in series depends on the voltage of the LEDs. Each series group only needs one resistor. Use this: http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

>> No.1053811

>>1053803
>105380
V- 4.7
Current- 2.1 amps
Resistance- 2.2 omhs
Power- 10 watts

I managed to get all LEDs to light up with 9 resistors but they get dimmer as they get to the last one. Im guessing too many resistors.

>> No.1053820

>>1052871
You sound like a fucking nob mate.
Yeah it's a dangerous job, and yeah shocks and injuries come part and parcel, but that doesn't mean you just ignore the risk.
Fuck me, your jobs not worth your life.

>> No.1053832

>>1053782
>10v usb
>>1053811
>V- 4.7
wat??

>>1053811
>Resistance- 2.2 omhs
try 220 Ohm or 2.2K Ohm

>> No.1053834

>>1052761
>american express
You must suck at life. American Express is by far the least usefull card anyone could own. The fact that they are still in buisiness is nothing short of a miracle.

>> No.1053835

>>1052942
Yo dude, did you go to BAVTS? You look hella familiar.

>> No.1053836

Young sophmore going into Computer Engineering. Wanna get started with wiring and playing with raspberry pi's. Any good books for learning how that stuff works? Don't wanna get any pi cookbooks because the few I've lent from the library just tend to show rather than explain.

>> No.1053838

>>1052818
>$70k with shittons of overtime

Holy shit nigger what are you doing? I work Friday, Saturday, and Sunday ONLY as an industrial electrician and i make more than that. I live in a state with some of the lowest costs of living in the US too. Quit your job, its crap.

>> No.1053841

>>1053836
have you taken any control theory?

>> No.1053844

>>1053841
I'm practically a freshman, I've only just gotten to Diff EQ and physics with electricity. It's only until the spring that I start doing engineering related anything.

>> No.1053846

>>1053836
>learning how that stuff works
You're going to need to be more specific. Your Comp E program will cover a lot of it anyway.

>> No.1053849
File: 458 KB, 480x854, Screenshot_2016-09-12-23-34-06.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1053849

I'm trying to replace an electrolytic capacitor from an old record player and it says "3×30mfd 150V" and I'm having a hard finding an new one, any ideas for a substitute or any other options in general ?

Pic related

>> No.1053858

>>1052754
How I can get rid of my electrophobia?

>> No.1053861

>>1053846
>Your Comp E program will cover a lot of it anyway.

no. it wont. engineering undergrad is a bunch of nebulous foundational concepts that give you a vague understanding of where to look next if you really want to learn about something.

>> No.1053880

>>1053861
Sorry your undergrad sucked, famalama.

>> No.1053892

>>1053820
>>1052864
Jesus Christ boys, looks like OSH has arrived, abandon thread before he tells us we need protective gear to shitpost.

>> No.1053896

>>1053732
Thank you for taking the time to answer me. I really appreciate it.

I think I'll have to do some rewiring for the bathroom, it has the light sharing the light circuit for the rest of the upper floor (like 3 lights, it's a tiny house). Luckily I have already added a gfci outlet above the sink and shouldn't have a terrible time fixing that.

I'll have to swap in a gfci for the washer as well. The dryer is 240v, is gfci required for it as well?

For the kitchen, I have the fridge and the stove (non electric) on the same circuit, non gfci. And there's only two other outlets in there, both gfci plugs I think on the same circuit. So does that mean each of those outlets would get a dedicated circuit?

HVAC blower is on a 20, so that's fine, and Ac unit on a two phase(?) 20. if I remember right. I didn't fuck with that one, it had recent wiring and was in its own little junction box with breakers. I just moved those into to the new larger box and it fit with no problems.

I will look into buying stock in wire caps and then redo all my wiring to use them instead of the plug.

One more question, I have my living room lights on a motion sensor that's facing the front door from the other side of the room. Do I still need to add in a switch by the front door? The way it was set up before had the front door switch controlling a porch light and a wall outlet for a lamp. I put in a two gang box when I did the drywall work but haven't gotten around to fixing that..

>> No.1053909

Why are the ppe requirements for 240-480 so retarded?
>Balaclava under a face shield
>Flame retardant underwear
>Fucking crazy barrier requirements that make no sense when people are working around said equipment, with a kitchen

>> No.1053910

>>1052754
Do you know what the output voltage from a microwave transformer is? And could I hook the hv output from one directly to the primary coil of a second microwave transformer to get an absurdly high voltage?

>> No.1053918

>>1053909
I have no problem with PPE, it saves limbs and lives and shit, I have problems with retarded rules and faggots who enforce them

>On a commercial site
>Gear up to go into a hot as fuck ceiling
>Foreman comes up to me
>Uh yeah hardhats are compulsory here
>I'm going into a confined space dickhead I'm not wearing that shit in this bullshit tiny roof space
>Wear it or you're off the site
>Put it on my head
>Climb through manhole
>Take it off

My other favourite
>Go to sign in at a new site and get usual health and safety lecture
>Induction form wants my
>Spouses name
>All phone numbers for me and spouse
>All email addresses
>Physical address
>Date of birth
>Drivers licence number
>I told the guy I'm not providing him with my personal info, he could have my work phone number and that's it
>He throws an ungodly tantrum and it boils down to give us your personal info or you can't work here
>Hourly rate, I don't give a fuck
>See you later faggot I'm going home

>> No.1053922

>>1053834

We costco now.

>> No.1053925

>>1053918

Sounds like they were worried about theft and wanted as much info as possible to give police just in case. There's no good reason why they need your drivers license info.

Maybe he was going to steal your identity.

>> No.1053935

>>1053925
I really don't give a fuck if people are worried about theft. If there is a problem they can go to my employer who will tell them to get fucked.

If they suspect me of theft then they have my name and place of employment which is all the police need to come to my house anyway.

>> No.1053951

>>1053834
I like it. The Cashback rewards work for me. Plus.. people see it and know my credit rocks.
>>1053835
I'm not sure what that is. I'm from jersey tho.
>>1053836
>How stuff works
Can you clarify? Sounds like you're talking about circuitry. I never really got into circuitry anything I could tell you you could probably google.
>>1053838
Assuming you aren't full of shit, what do you do and what state do you live in? And are they highering? Com'on hook a anon up.
>>1053858
Idk. Lick 9v batteries until your balls grow hair.
>>1053910
2200v. No you could not. The input voltage on the primary of a microwave is 120v. If you try to hook up 2200v to a 120v coil, shits gonna hit the fan when you power it on. Don't do that.

>> No.1053958

>>1053896
> I think I'll have to do some rewiring for the bathroom, it has the light sharing the light circuit for the rest of the upper floor (like 3 lights, it's a tiny house).
The lights are allowed to be on with other lights, so long as the outlet isn't on there as well. Basically you have 2 options.
A. Outlet on a 20 amp circuit and shares the circuit only with other bathroom outlets (in this scenario the lights can be on with anything else, doesn't matter)
B. Dedicated 20 amp circuit for each bathroom, (lights + outlet)
Unless you were saying you have a scenario B, and the light was on with other lights. Yeah you'd have to rewire that.
>The dryer is 240v, is gfci required for it as well?
Nah you're fine on that.
>For the kitchen, I have the fridge and the stove (non electric) on the same circuit, non gfci. And there's only two other outlets in there, both gfci plugs I think on the same circuit. So does that mean each of those outlets would get a dedicated circuit?
Well your stove doesn't have to be gfi and you definitely don't want your fridge on a gfi (think coming back from vacation to find a powerless fridge with $100 worth of food stinking it up)
As for the other two outlets, are they counter top outlets? Feed one from the fridge/stove circuit. Now that you've done that, the other one will be a dedicated 20 amp gfi circuit, and you're fine.
Reason being The stove and the fridge outlets are part of the mandated 20 amp appliance circuit.
>One more question, I have my living room lights on a motion sensor that's facing the front door from the other side of the room. Do I still need to add in a switch by the front door? The way it was set up before had the front door switch controlling a porch light and a wall outlet for a lamp. I put in a two gang box when I did the drywall work but haven't gotten around to fixing that..
As far as I know it's not illegal, but your inspector might have something to say about that setup, and he overrides the code book.

>> No.1053961

>>1053958
>>1053732
>kitchen circuit must be gfci protected
>fridge and oven don't have to be gfi protected

I know it sounds like I'm contradicting myself, but what I meant to say was all COUNTERTOP outlets must be gfci protected

>> No.1053965

What advice would you have for someone about to start an electrical career?

>> No.1053968

>>1053965
Don't die.

>> No.1053975

>>1053965
Show up every day ten minutes early be ready to go at 7( or whenever you start) with your tools ready to go. Just show up every day and pay attention and try to learn something new everyday. Get the tools you need. Don't stand around. If you don't know what to do just ask your Forman or clean shit up.


1. DON'T STAND STILL! If you don't know what to do, sweep or organize materials. If you have time to lean, you have time to clean.

2. Be on time every day. I know it sounds stupid, but seriously be ready to work at start time. Not walking onto the site/into the shop/into job shack at start time.

3. Keep a notepad and write down measurements, things you've been asked to get, anything you think you may forget. A notepad is one of the most important tools you can have.

4. Always keep something to cut with on you. Dykes and a knife should never leave your person. Even if you aren't working with tools you'll be ready to open boxes, grab a piece of rope/string, or help somebody out who set theirs down.

No one is going to expect you to know everything yet, just be helpful. Be willing to do the grunt work, pick up trash, and sweep the floor. Can't stress enough though....be on time. More people get fired for tardiness than poor performance.
Leave the phone in your pocket.
If they see you with it once, they will assume you are on it constantly.
If you have to check a message do it while you go to the bathroom, but keep the pooping in your free time if possible.
Also, don't ever leave a place without letting someone know where you are - if you have to go to the bathroom for example.
This month your pockets are only for your phone, never your hands.


-excerpts from a reddit thread asking the same thing.

>> No.1053977

>>1053965
Stay the fuck out of harbor frieght.
If you buy reliable tools, your life will be easier and your tools will last for a long time.

For power tools, I like milwaukee the best. Dewalt seems to be declining in quality. Makita is decent too.

For hand tools I like klien and knipex.

For multimeters, in my opinion, there is only one brand: fluke.

>> No.1053999

>>1052754
Do you know how I can get the shorts out of my ass crack?

>> No.1054016

>>1053999
Pull down on your pant leg

>> No.1054150

>>1052754
Controls Enguhneer here. I've got a gimped copy of the NEC, mostly just how to build a panel and not kill everyone in the factory. Is it kosher to pull plenum CAT 6e through airducts? I've got crap internet at the edges of my wi-fi and I want to run a cable.

>> No.1054161

>>1053951
>highering
dont thing any would hire a tard that spells it like that

>> No.1054163

>>1054150
From Wikipedia:

>Plenum cable /ˈplɛnəm/ is cable that is laid in the plenum spaces of buildings. In the United States, plastics used in the construction of plenum cable are regulated under the National Fire Protection Association standard NFPA 90A: Standard for the Installation of Air Conditioning and Ventilating Systems. All materials intended for use on wire and cables to be placed in plenum spaces are designed to meet rigorous fire safety test standards in accordance with NFPA 262 and outlined in NFPA 90A.

>> No.1054167

>>1054150
>>1054163
CAT cables dont have even a fraction of the voltage and amps regular electric cables has so you dont have to follow those regulations.

>> No.1054168

>>1054163
>>1054167
I'm not completely inept, I just want to make sure Insuricare can't stiff me if my house burns down because I ran ethernet through return ducts.

>> No.1054170

>>1054167
No that's wrong. Running cables through plenum has nothing to do with voltage and everything to do with firehazard.

Plenum rated cable has a non flammable insulation (usually teflon). They don't want a bunch of flamible cable running through duct work because of the toxic smoke and the risk of spreading fire.
>>1054168
yes use plenum rated cable!
Dont listen to
>>1054167

>> No.1054171

>>1054170
>dont listen to me
Why?

>> No.1054173

>>1052754
my gf is coming to see me from usa, she should conect the things she owns in my house? (im from south america)

>> No.1054174
File: 66 KB, 400x288, 400px-800px-Map_of_the_world_coloured_by_voltage_and_frequency.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1054174

>>1054173
maybe, maybe not

>> No.1054177

>>1054174
>>1054173
Argentina

>> No.1054179

>>1054177
look at the map and use your brain

>> No.1054181

>>1054174
what do i have to do?>>1054177

>> No.1054183

>>1054181
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/luggage-bags/travel-accessories/pcmcat271700050005.c?id=pcmcat271700050005

>> No.1054185

>>1054173
Are you south America bro with the ar?

>> No.1054192

>>1054171
Because you're misinformed. Cat 5 absolutely must be plenum rated when run thru duct work.
See
>>1054170

>> No.1054211

>>1052754
I want to wire a shed for power.
If i want to put each of the 4 sides on their own breakers with the intent to have a fridge and ac unit as the only high draw appliances, what size breakers should i use to be able to put those appliances anywhere i want?

>> No.1054224

>>1054211
Simple answer: 20 amp

Long winded answer: I'm assuming your talking about a basic 120v window unit? In a garage? You could probably go with a tiny one depending on the size of the garage. Anyway, Check the amp rating on the ac unit. There's your answer. Round up to the nearest breaker size.

>> No.1054233

>>1054161
Oh, ok, so you are full of shit. Just checking.

>> No.1054234

>>1052850
I'll give my opinion having just finished school, moved and got my first job
>How difficult is it to get an apprenticeship?
Piss easy, my program through ABC/NCCER takes any electrical work hours as part of the job training
>Assuming I went through some schooling first?
Even easier, I was basically hired on the spot well after I got my OSHA card so go and get that
>And, the biggest question, I'm looking to find my "real" job (not a mcjob, or bumming around with friends, or any of that barely paying stuff) at 28 years old. Is it too late to deal with apprenticeships and all that?
Nope, I'm 28 myself and basically bummed around school the past 4 years for the aid money and until I could move then got a nice job with decent benefits. Now everything is working out fine.
>Is there a "cult of youth" that would hold me back? I hear a big part of apprenticeship is ditch digging. Would I just be getting outpaced by younger guys?
I've yet to dig a ditch, thats mostly work for helpers or laborers, if you come in with most of the tools you'll need and the ability to do basic wiring and pipe bending you'll probably end up doing that while learning the ropes.
Seriously if you come up bending conduit like a pro that shit alone could land you jobs

>> No.1054236
File: 80 KB, 871x811, 1468703923886.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1054236

>>1052754

What is wrong with this wiring job?

>> No.1054238

>>1054236
non-UL Rated screw.

>> No.1054241

>>1054236
no proper phase tape

>> No.1054253

>>1054236
OP, weighing in.

The wire is not going clockwise under the screw. Take it out flip it around, and you're good.

>> No.1054382

>>1053958
Yes!!! I actually fixed that bathroom wiring on my own then. It used to be like scenario B. but when i swapped out the vanity/power strip/light/medicine cabinet monstrosity they had in there it took out the only outlet in there. I ran a dedicated line for the new plug. So happy about that being done, because the walls are tiled.

I see what you're saying on the kitchen. I think it's currently the two counter outlets on a gfci and the appliance circuit. I'll have to double check it, but I think that's it.

Good to know on the light switch. Maybe when I get a little more Romex I'll do a runner for that light then. I've already got the box in, so that helps I guess.

I am so grateful for your help. Thank you very, very much.

>> No.1054384

>>1054236
Hopefully trolling, but if not, they placed the screw directly in the line feed from the electrical meter. So, no breaker to trip if it shorts. Just fire raining down from above. Also, it's always live, unless you have a switch / breaker at the meter.

>> No.1054385

>>1054236
Oh, and red and black wires joined together. God if this was really in someone's house, I would never buy it. Probably holding the framing up with pushpins and the water heater is a camp fire pit in the basement.

>> No.1054389

>>1054236
This is one way, albeit dodgy as fuck, to get free power right?

If you intercept the line before the meter there is no load over the meter and so you won't get billed for whatever that circuit pulls right?

>> No.1054392

>>1052754
I have a submersible pump I installed under my house because it had no sump. Right now it's just plugged into an extension cord I fed into my utility room, and I want to wire it into a light switch. The extension cord is staying where it is forever so there's power in the crawlspace. Would it make more sense to wire an outlet to the light switch or could I wire the extension cord inside the wall direct to the switch. The wall is getting resheeted either way

>> No.1054394

I dont understand all the Fuss, I mean how hard can it be to become an electrician, its only 2 wires.

>> No.1054398

>>1054394
If you have Grounded outlets it's three, that's where the extra difficulty comes in
You gotta pay attention to not make any of those touch

>> No.1054406

>>1054398
Wew lad, takes true skill to not touch wires together.

>> No.1054408

How intense is the labor?
I imagine after a few years your body would get used to it, and the people that end up with a destroyed body would have been due to drug use/reliance opposed to the work.

>> No.1054419

>>1054170
Alright, thanks. I thought I read somewhere a while ago that cable through forced-air ducts return or otherwise was a no-go, then later reading that it was fine if it was used for environmental data.

>> No.1054424

>>1054392
You can never have sj cord (extension cable cord) in a wall. If you're dead set on using the extension cord, which I don't recommend, add an outlet to where that which is.

For anyone wondering, the proper way is to have a single outlet (not the duplex outlet like you're used to seeing) installed in the vicinity of the pump.

>>1054394
Nice bait. Draw me a diagram of a 3way switch where the power is fed from the light box, then come back to me
>>1054408
Not super intense. Occasionally you might have to lift a heavy piece of material but not often. keep yourself limber and in half decent shape and it's not bad. I would worry more about ear and eye protection. Oh and decent knee pads if you're super worried. Although they're gonna be super annoying unless you get the kind the flooring guys wear
>>1054419
To be completely honest I'm not a 100% sure about using duct as a race way. It certainly seems to be what the Wikipedia article implies, but I'd be lying if I said I was sure.

>> No.1054443

>>1052754
How long can a feeder wire for a dipole be until you get noticeable loss?

>> No.1054446

>>1052754
How much do you make annually? Do you work for yourself or with a company? Do you work more than 40 hours a week?

>> No.1054492

>>1054389
That's after the meter but before the houses main breaker. Yes you can steal power by tapping it before the meter, but that is highly illegal and not worth the few bucks you would save.

>> No.1054494

>>1054446
See
>>1052818
I work for facilities at a hospital.
Electricians who make more than me:
Lead electricians for private contractors
Electricians who specialize in things such as control wiring
Union electricians
Union foremen
Licensed electricians

Just to name a few.

I do a shit ton of side work. It's probably closer to 75k.

>> No.1054498

>>1054443
You'd need to do a voltage drop calculation. It varies based on wire Guage, voltage, and the load put on it. That being said, as a general rule of thumb, your safe with anything shorter than 125ft

>> No.1054502

>>1054498
Cheers

>> No.1054553

>>1052754
If I have a motor attached to a small gear attached to a large gear w 10 times the teeth- that large gear w small gear under connected to large gear w small gear under it etc

This would be done so one rotation by motor outputs 10x(amount of gears) and more rpm than the motor correct?

So then if this last gear operating at say 50x the rmp was connected to a generator that supplied some power to the motor and some to a li on backup would I have a perpetual motion/ energy mill or am I not taking something into consideration?

>> No.1054586

>>1054553
You're not thinking about what fucks up everyone who thinks like you and reverses their Lego gears to make stuff go faster: you do get 10x more speed, but you also get 10x less momentum

>> No.1054590

>>1054586
Right but say I connect that system to a pulley system and lower the force required to be exherted and have a weight pull the rope turning the gears then returning when the weight is taken off. Just picking up a small weight and placing it on a rope would result into two things

I have done little exhertion, and

Many turns on the generator occurred

Is that viable?

>> No.1054602
File: 1.53 MB, 480x262, wrath_of_khan.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1054602

>>1054553
Idk meng, im just an electrician.
>>1054590

>> No.1054614

>>1054590

It still baffles me when I find someone who doesn't at least intuitively understand the fundamental law of mechanical advantage, whether it be levers, gears, pulleys, whatever.

Any increase in motion is compensated for by a decrease in force, and vice-versa.

Got a gear set that spins 10x on the output shaft for every 1x on the input? It does it with 1/10th the force.

Have to spin 2x on the input shaft for 1x on the output? Spins with double the force.

Chain hoist with a 20:1 advantage? Sure, it takes 1/20th of the force to lift the weight, but you're going to have to pull 20x the chain.

There is absolutely no getting around this. The total power (distance or RPM, multiplied by force) at the output will always be equal to that at the input, minus losses to friction between mating surfaces.

>> No.1054706

>>1054614
So if I set it up to where the force is low but output is high I could just have a tall structure and allow the rope to be pulled down by weight to spin motors.

Then I could put some of the energy earned into running a conveyer belt that resets the weight

>> No.1054781

>>1054706
Just:
get a sailboat
mechanically connect a fan on deck
to a propeller in the water

one push to get it started
propeller turns
fan connected to propeller turns
fan blows into sail

>travel the seven seas for free matey...

>> No.1055705

Lol Americans with their 110v

Come play with 415 sometime

>> No.1055723

>>1055705
I would, but I'm too busy playing with 480 v everyday.

>> No.1055731

>moved into new-to-me house
>several outlets do not provide power
>lamp bubl socket in fan lights a bulb with crackling sound and soon "pops" and blows the bulb. the other 3 lamps in the fan work perfectly fine
>zero diy electrical skills
>afraid of what internet says to do cuz don't wanna die from electrocution


Is it really as simple as putting in new outlets? Can I upgrade them to GFCI even though the outlets I currently have are the 3 prong outlets without the buttons on them (so i believe them to not be GCFI)

>> No.1055737

>>1054590
Think of it like riding your bike -- when you have your big gear in front drive a little gear in back, you have to put out a lot more force to make it move. Sometimes so much that it's no longer feasible to pedal to drive you forward and you have to switch to a lower gear.

If you did what you describe in >>1054553 you wouldn't have perpetual motion, you'd have a lot of gear-work that would take a fuckton of force to get turning. With enough gearing, you'd sooner just strip the teeth off than actually get useful work out of it.

Besides, the problem with perpetual motion machines is efficiency. Energy is lost to heating in cabling and to friction, etc. The simplest "perpetual motion" machine would be two motors connected in series and with their shafts linked together so the electricity generation of one powers the other (this spinning the first to generate power) but it would stop spinning fairly quickly due to things like friction of the motors and power loss in the cables.


>>1054706
You'd still lose energy to various sources. It's easier to just light a fire and have steam spin a turbine or something. You know, how power generation is actually done in most of the world.

>> No.1055740

>>lamp bubl socket in fan lights a bulb with crackling sound and soon "pops" and blows the bulb. the other 3 lamps in the fan work perfectly fine

Turn power off. Look in socket. See the metal tab in the bottom of the socket? Try prying it forward with a small skinny screwdriver, gently, so that it makes better contact with the bulb. If it looks burnt and pitted, the socket needs to be replaced.
>>zero diy electrical skills
You tube is your friend.
>>afraid of what internet says to do cuz don't wanna die from electrocution
Turn the power off before and get the proper meters, and you should be fine.

>Is it really as simple as putting in new outlets? Can I upgrade them to GFCI even though the outlets I currently have are the 3 prong outlets without the buttons on them (so i believe them to not be GCFI)

If it's several, you might have a bad breaker or a bad splice. When outlets "go bad" they don't usually lose power all together, as they are pretty much just brass conductors inside a plastic shell

>gfi

Gfis are only required by code in certain areas and for certain equipment. But you can install them anywhere you want if you like them and don't mind spending 25$ a pop.

Also when installing Gfis, you must connect incoming power to the "line" side. You can youtube it for a more in depth exantion.

>> No.1055746
File: 631 KB, 1456x2592, IMG_20160916_162726554.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1055746

Gotta wire a 200+ feet long innerduct.

wat do

>> No.1055751

>>1055740

Thanks for the reply! I will try what you said about the lamp socket when I'm home.

House was built in 1985 and the breaker appears to be brand new, likely during renovation. It's most of the outlets in the garage and one socket in the bedroom works, the second/top does not. If it turns out to be a bad splice, is that something /diy/? I'd like to become handy enough that any minor job I can do myself without having to run to the repairman.

As with the GFI's many online sources say that when performing any sort of repair it means upgrading to current electrical code, and having seen that there isn't a downside to GFI's other than price. I have no issue with cost if it's ultimately better, it'll give me piece of mind knowing I have the best product instead of skimping by with the bare minimum. Am I wrong to think this?

>> No.1055752

>>1055746
>Get 200+ feet of string
>tie a piece of paper towel on the end
>blow string through with compressed air
>use string to pull cable
>?????
>Profit

>> No.1055754

>>1055752

this assumes the pressure will keep to the end of the duct, and that the duct is air-tight.

>> No.1055785

>>1055751

>Thanks for the reply!
No problem. I'll be monitoring this thread till it 404's. Then I'll start a new one.
>It's most of the outlets in the garage

That is one of the areas that are required to be gfci protected. As a matter of fact, they very well could be. Search around. Search every wall inside and out, and see if there's an outlet you're missing. If it's a gfi there exists 2 likely easy to fix possibilities. The 1st being that the gfi is tripped. (One gfi outlet can protect many other gfi outlets, provided that they are "downstream") reset the gfi and youre good to go.
The other possibility is that the missing gfi has gone bad. They're sensitive little fuckers. If you do find a missing gfi, check for voltage. If there is none, pull out the gfi and check for voltage on the screw terminals themselves. Is voltage is present, you have a burned out gfi.

>one socket in the bedroom works, the second/top does not.

Are you saying one half of an outlet doesnt work?

Do you have any switches that you dont know what their purpose is? Turn on all the switches and check the top half.

A lot of the times one half will be constant hot and the top will be switch for a reading lamp or something.

>is that something /diy/?
Yes, just make sure you have the right tools for the job. Make sure your splicrs are tight and have plenty of conductor.
I can't stress this enough. Again: youtube.

Also, don't be afraid to know your limits.

>Am I wrong to think this?

No. Gfis are fine. But rather than replacing every single out let with a gfi which would cost you hundreds, you could
A. Protect down stream outlets with a single gfci (just make sure line goes to like and load goes to load) OR
B. Install a gfci breaker. Much more DIY friendly as it is less labor and harder to screw up.

But consider the following: if you have a sump pump or a fridge on a gfi outlet, and it trips while you're out on vacation or something, the results are gonna suck.

>> No.1055787

>>1055751
>>1055785
But again. Off of the top of my head only the following are required to be on gfi:

>pool equipment
>any outdoor outlets
>garage outlets
>unfinished basement outlets
>washer outlets
>any and all bathroom outlets
>kitchen counter top outlets

Pretty sure that's all of them. If I missed one I'll let you know.

>> No.1055796

>>1055746
Go buy a 250ft electrician's fish.

>> No.1055811

>>1055796

I don't have 200 bucks to spare.

>> No.1055874
File: 401 KB, 1440x2560, Screenshot_20160916-221042.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1055874

>>1055811
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057ZP2X8/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474078152&sr=8-2-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=250ft+electrian+fish

Want me to wipe your ass too?

>> No.1055884

>>1055874
>>1055811
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057ZP0BW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474079052&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=250ft+electric+fish&dpPl=1&dpID=51oLU-Lpz1L&ref=plSrch

The last link was for a 150ft one. Still, nowhere near 200$

>> No.1055895

>>1055874
>>1055884

Not USA sadly. Used bucks for referential price over here.

>> No.1055903

>>1055895
Okay but you didn't specify that and he did deliver. Apologize.

>> No.1055907

>>1055903

I am indeed terribly sorry.

>> No.1055926

>>1052764
Ed Gein pls go

>> No.1056709

>>1055785
>>1055787

>That is one of the areas that are required to be gfci protected....

Did some digging in the garage and the exterior walls, there is no outlet with any kind of reset button on them. I'll pick up a voltage meter and test the outlets as you described and yes, it'll be several youtubing hours to make sure i do it right!

>one socket in the bedroom works, the second/top does not.

Yes I meant one half of an outlet does not work. It is not a switch (tested every hole with cell phone charger) it's just a bad connection. It's a bit hard to describe, but the prongs of what I'm plugging in don't fit "snugly" into the outlet. It's very very easy for it to simply fall out. I feel that it's just an old outlet that needs replacing but wanted to confirm.

>is that something /diy/?

Thanks for all your advice, I really hope I can figure this out but I *should* know where my limits are and when to admit defeat call an expert, something I should've done with my jeep haha.

>Gfis are fine.

Ah, i never considered the breaker itself!! I'll look into that. As for tripping the fridge when out, that does seem very inconvenient in terms of protection, but there is going to be someone in the house several hours per day everyday so I'm not too worried about that.

>> No.1056776

>>1056709

Reporting back. I don't know what I was thinking when I said most of the outlets in the garage don't work, it's very clearly just one wall outlet that shows 0 volts in either plug.

The one in the bedroom, the top hole shows around 30 volts and the bottom half is at 120; I take it I should not be using this bottom one as it's likely on it's way out as well?

My multimeter is a $20 craftsman, is it normal or did i get a low quality unit that explains why working outlets show anywhere from 119-126 volts?

I'm looking into buying replacement outlets (Leviton M12-05320-WMP 15 Amp specifically). The switches on the breaker say the number 20 on them, so my google fu is saying that this is a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit. Then it's on to youtoob to watch how to swap out outlets.

Is this method of thinking correct?

>> No.1056778

>>1052754
How does it feel to be part of the most hated trade on site?

>> No.1056780

>>1052762
Sound pretty qualified to me.

>> No.1056889

>>1052754

How bad is it to use un-grounded outlets in in a house with modern equipment such as computers and TV:s?

Eurpean here, outlet sockets are different in case it makes any difference.

>> No.1057266

>>1052754
>>>1057245

>> No.1057306
File: 7 KB, 332x168, fdRU1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1057306

>>1056709
Yeah replace your outlets if they're worn
>>1056776
119-126v is normal. The range is anywhere from 110-127.

I personally won't use anything other than fluke meters. But that's a top of the line brand, and I don't know if it would be worth it for a non electrician. Your call.

You are allowed to have 15 amp outlets on a 20 amp circuit.

>>1056778
Plumber detected.

Haters gonna hate. Only one trade can exist without electricity, and thats carpentry.
>>1056889
Eh. I know a lot of tvs over here in the US don't even have ground prongs.

As for computers? There's a lot of sensitive shit in there, I'd try to find a way to ground it if you can.
>>1057266
Wut?

>> No.1057722

>>1052754
im about to start electrical school, ive been reading some electrics. (mostly low voltage house electrics). i dont know wht you call it. Any tips on how to learn electronics or anything i might need to now about the study?

>> No.1057897

>>1057722
don't worry about it, school is a breeze. Basic highschool math for first year and looking stuff up in the code book.

>> No.1058059

>>1057722
Read

>>1052765

>> No.1058529

Hey OP why is just about every electrician an insufferable arrogant cunt?

I have met maybe 3 or 4 likeable electricians.

>> No.1058596

>>1052956
this needs a response

>> No.1058599

>>1052754
how difficult would it be to wire in a 30 amp non fused shut off and a 30 amp breaker for my minisplit.

>> No.1058600

>>1052754
can i run a continous load (12hrs) of 28 amps on a 30 amp breaker without running into to a problem or should i bite the bullet and put in a 40 amp breaker to be on the safe side?

>> No.1058644

>>1058529
>>1058596
Shove a 9v battery up your ass, shove nails under your fingernails. Bam, you're done.

>> No.1058707

>>1052754
Browsed the thread earlier and I know you do commercial but have you done industrial before OP? Whole different world.

L.U. 676 here.

>> No.1058712

>>1058707
Oh and in case there's any pro union millionaires reading this my hall is in dire need of assistance. Donations would be appreciated.

>> No.1058715

>>1052754
I have a grounding issue in my house.

Half of the plugs along one side of the house has a weak ground. When I measure from the ground plug to the hot plug it only shows like 80v instead of 120v

I asked before, and people said I had a bad ground somewhere.

What is the best way to start looking for it?

>> No.1058733

>>1052818
License for what?

>> No.1058737

>>1052754
Which color wires do you put together to jumpstart a car?

>> No.1058738

>>1052821
I don't know why you guys hate it, residential is comfy as fuck, I've meet some incredible people on service calls.

>> No.1058753

>>1058715
>What is the best way to start looking for it?
go to the breaker box and tighten all the ground wire screws

>> No.1058769

Klein backpack.

Didn't read.

>> No.1058935

>>1053000

There are some organizations pushing for DC powered homes. Heard it on NPR before sitting in a long ass safety meeting.

>> No.1058936

>>1058600

What's the start up amps like?

>> No.1058946

If I open the fuse box cover I see two rails (live and ground I suppose)
If I turn off the main fuse, do they become (relatively) safe to touch?

I don't plan to but that would be one more level of safety when installing a new breaker ...

>> No.1058981

>>1052754
what is the most inventive setup you've seen for stealing power? splitting the service line pre-breaker box.

>> No.1059063
File: 2.57 MB, 1080x1920, Screenshot_2016-09-22-21-39-51.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1059063

What can I make out of these microwave parts?

>> No.1059076

>>1059063
Recoil the transformer to have a low voltage, high power AC source you can toy with

>> No.1059106

>>1052786
But what frequency will be the better for enjoy it, 50 or 60Hz?

>> No.1059114

>>1059076
And do what with it?

>> No.1059128

>>1059114
>And do what with it?
>>1059076
>toy with it

>> No.1059138

>>1059128
I wanted to make something with instructions though,can I make a projectile velocity expelling device or some sort of computer fucker upper or something?

>> No.1059146

>>1052754

What's your preferred method for balancing load on a 240V delta configured panel?

>> No.1059331

>>1052754
Are you straight?

>> No.1059376

>>1052754
why are sparks always the biggest bitches on site?

>> No.1059380

Hey /diy/ most of the info in this thread is US focused, any British based electricians got any advice for a guy in his mid twenties who is looking to become an electrician? I'm no slacker and have half a brain. Just thought tree surgery would be more rewarding than it is....

>> No.1059389

>>1059380

Check and see if the major companies are doing apprentiships. I know British Gas do a few.

It will be hard though, lots of people want to get into trades now. Oh and also if you fancy it also look at Gas apprentiships. It pays as well and is good work overall.

>> No.1059392

>>1059389
Nice, suppose I best ask them about age limits on those sorts of programmes. I am quietly hoping to pick up a trade I could combine with IRATA as I'd like to keep working at heights. I figured electrics would be likely to work well with IRATA, not that this is based on anything solid.

>> No.1059408

>>1059392

mate, it wont be easy but you want to get into commercial gas then, suspended air heaters is a big chunk of the commercial market and they get pretty dam high, i fucking hate heights so the market competition would be welcomed. of course this would be scaff/cherry picker based. don't know if they use ropes in electrics for the lines tho, probably worth looking into


i thought tree surgeons had it good?

>> No.1059417

>>1059408
Thanks, I'll give gas another look!

Some tree surgeon's have it good. I certainly don't at the moment. Wrecking myself for a big company and getting paid peanuts. The two ways I see to make a good wage are to move into management or to start my own company. Forget management! And I am coming across too many horror stories about people starting their own company. The way things are going I am going to past my prime, crippled and with no capital to invest if I do want to start a firm. I reckon if I can pick up a good trade, electrics is what draws at the moment, but would change my idea if it meant I could still work at heights.

Am I wrong thinking that something like electrics or plumbing could provide a decent living without having to start my own company? The main issue with tree climbing is that unless I go it on my own I am making nothing.

>> No.1059418

>>1059417

depends what you call a good living.

Elec is about 30-35k a year domestic from a national company, gas is about the same and in commercial im making 42k currently and that's not great for the trade.

there will be firms where you can make a lot more and self employed you can earn more still. i would not even say its hard, you just need some starting capital for van/tools ect. If you cant get work then you will be doing something seriously worng.

Oh and also those figures are once you are fully trained with about a year behind you. the bitch will be that before you are qualified they will pay fuck all.

>> No.1059420

>>1059418
Swell, that's way more than I make climbing, and more than my company pays our lead climbers so sounds good already.

I am not completely opposed to starting my own company in general, just I've seen nothing but bad stuff in the arb industry and I want to be able to do it when I am a little older, not because I am forced to by low wages.

Excuse my ignorance, but what's the domestic vs commercial? Is that home calls vs building sites?

I'm not sacred of slumming it while I get my tickets, as long as at the end of it is a trade that offers me a good progression and not a wage ceiling that I will reach in 3 years.

>> No.1059428

>>1059420

Its the difference between house visits with small appliances and actual commercial sites (offices/hospitals/warehouses ect). The larger appliances that exist in commercial premises come under a different set of regulations.

Electrical is somewhat different as im not sure they have qualifications for commercial settings, its more just a case of "competence".

Industrial commercial qualifications are hard to get into but really worth in the long run, your best bet early though is most likely domestic, as there will be more opportunities, and its opens the path to commercial employment later.

im not so savvy on the electrical industry but on gas i would send letters and a CV to the major companies like edf/british gas ect. also send to boiler manufacturers (Worcester,ideal,vallaint,keston,gloworm,potterton,remeha), they have their own engineers and may well do apprenticeships. even if they don't list a job i would still write to them, some firms may even take you as a laborour of sorts with the promise of putting you through you qualifications. another thing i would recommend is trying facilities management companies like Mite and Carrilion. these guys employ all sorts of people in the commercial sector.

>> No.1059434

>>1059428
I am a big believer in the power of a well written letter, thanks for the company names! I'll get off my arse and start looking at different companies.

Do you think that an apprenticeship route is best? If I was able to self fund the basic tickets to get working would that be better?

>> No.1059439

>>1055754
unfold coat hangers, use steel wire, or get one of those extending poles painters have for paint rollers.

>> No.1059444

>>1059434
Ask what reading material is best so you can study immediately. I'm an Americuck so I've no idea how Bongland does training.

Also find good links and become a human encyclopedia on your subject. (Don't ever flaunt that, just use what you learn to excel.)

>> No.1059454

>>1059376
>why are sparks always the biggest bitches on site?

It takes brains, dont be mad we dont lower ourselves to the level of a menial brute worker.

>> No.1059738

I'm starting trade school next year. I'd like to be an industrial electrician eventually, but there aren't a lot of apprentice positions around here and I think the best bet for me would be to use my family connections to get a job with a construction company. Will this fuck up my chances to get a job doing industrial work later on? Should I take advantage of the opportunity to work with a construction company or should I just keep looking until I can get an apprenticeship doing industrial work?

>> No.1059756

>>1059376
The boss gets pissed off if the guy he's paying big bucks is humping cement or trash.

Could literally get fired for doing grunt work.

>> No.1059760

>>1059417
Do they have utility poles in the UK? Electric line work is pretty good in the us.

Since you're young you could get on a hotline contractor crew and make like 100k+ American pesos.

Since you got some brawn and brain your do pretty good. As a tree surgeon o assume you're either gaffing the tree orat least familiar with a bucket and comfortable with heights.

I'm actually in fiber optic solicing but it's kinda meh. Got overpoppulated with retiring phone company workers.

>> No.1059851

>>1052754
I'm about to start my NVQ course (uk) what are some basic tools I would need?

>> No.1059914

>>1059454
I'm a plasterer so I have to deal with sparks everyday they always leave their cables and crap all over the place so I snip their cables short and fill there socket boxes. And tell them to get fucked when they complain because they shouldn't leave such a fucking mess.

>> No.1059935

>>1052754
So.. Sean.. what's up with all those Pepe posts on Facebook. Bit weird if you ask me.

>> No.1060066
File: 1005 KB, 1440x2560, tmp_17495-Resized_20160924_130933-253498321.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1060066

hey electrician bro quick question. i want to turn off my main but i dont have a new shut off this is my main shut off.
>i just pull it out and reinsert it upside down, or leave it out to turn off power(like AC disconnect) to my breaker correct?

>> No.1060071

>>1053951
I generally dont tell people where i work on 4chan, as a personal rule. I live in Wisconsin though and the place i work is actually on the low end of pay for electrical work here.

>> No.1060073

>>1060071
Forgot to mention i work in electrical maintenance.

>> No.1060085

What do you think when you're going through old wireing and you find someone ran 2 different 120 lines together (red and black, no common) through some conduit and then just split them into different outlets with the ground as the common?

>> No.1060184

I am renting a house with a Central Pacific sub panel, the breakers don't trip. Should I replace the panel with something like Square D.

Also, in this house I have a mixture of knob and tube and romex and armored romex(bn or bz). And this is the part that gets me, there's ONE actual grounded outlet in the house.

This is an old home and most of the knob and tube I've found is in the basement.

I'm honestly considering buying the place but I'd like to update the wiring and stuff like that. I've hit the main breaker and still read 120 on the knob and tube, this is the part that concerns me. The knob and tube doesn't seem to have a shut off, other than having the power company come out and pull the meter to figure out where its wired in at, any advice?

>> No.1060190

>>1052979
Resi Electrician here. I can't agree more. Dealing with homeowners is a nightmare sometimes. I like my boss but eventually I need to quit and go somewhere to get commerical hours

>> No.1060195

>>1060184
Would be a good idea to replace it, but if you dont own the place you cant really do anything. If you buy the place have the seller change the panel and pay for it. do you have a picture of the panel? it may not have an actual main breaker if its old enough.

>> No.1060196

>>1060085
it works, but not safe at all. Where I live there are houses built in the 1940s that have a bare copper as the common (neutral). They were built during world war two and the story is they used wiring made for aircraft.

>> No.1060197

>>1060066
that should do the trick, but make 100 percent sure there isnt another panel or fusebox somewhere. use a voltage tester before you touch anything

>> No.1060200

>>1052762
Schooling is required in my state and a few others.
What I did was join my local non-union school, but they also had union school, but they're harder to get into. It was a 4 year course and you were required to work 2000 hours a year as an apprentice.

>> No.1060204

>>1052850
> Is there a "cult of youth" that would hold me back?
One of the best apprentices I've had lately is a lady in her late 50s. She's not fast, but she is meticulous. I work High end houses and she always does great job. Every other dumb ass apprentice can't get a plate straight or a plug tight and it drives me fucking crazy. I fucking hate doing things twice. That might just be my area though.

>> No.1060207

>>1053896
Try to pick up a wire nut driver for your power tool, just don't make them too tight.

>> No.1060218

>>1059914
That's ok, whenever I have to find a buried plug I use my hammer

>> No.1060320

>>1060195
From what I understand some of the old knob and tube wiring never had a breaker, some never even had a fuse. But with out pulling the meter I can't see where its getting power.

There are 3 panels. One is a seamon's, one is square d (with the 'main' 200A breaker), and the central pacific is the one that feeds 2 bedrooms, the kitchen and the 220v service for the dryer and AC unit.

Landlord is a fair man but he's a redneck. My fear is if i have him rewire the place he won't do it right. I had planned on consolidating all breakers to one panel, running 12ga romex throughout the house and putting in quadplex outlets with USB & cat6.

12ga is a bit overkill for 20A breakers but the breaker is to save the wires, but seeing some breakers never trip at 50-60A i'd like some cheap insurance.

I do have some experience with electrical I aprenticed for about 5 years when I was in high school in the industrial motor control world.

>> No.1060321

>>1060320
>>1060195

Well I found the hot wires for the knob and tube.

Straight out of the meter panel into the house, then there's 000 into the main disconnect and then into the sub panels.

If i buy the place I'm going to require a rewire.

>> No.1060496

had another opportunity to join a contractor as an apprentice but it sounded like they would be doing high voltage work. I realllyyyy dont want to do high voltage. What does that kind of work consist of? Am I wrong for not wanting to get into that shit? Reallllyyyyy dont want to die here.

>> No.1060526

Why is every linesman addicted to hydrocodone?

>> No.1060699

>>1052754
Hey OP, wondering if you could link me that toolbelt you have there. I remember seeing another worker using it and it looks sweet af.

Right now im using workwear with pockets which are not comfy at all

>> No.1061130

hey electric bro you have helped me out a shit ton on my project i owe you a beer.

one more question
>I bought a 24k mini split that is supposed to only have L1, L2, and G. When i wired in service disconnect i ran 10/3uf to dissconect. The line is hooked up properly the white cable is hooked up to my ground in disconnect box, white cable to my neutral bar in my pannel. If i have the ground in the condenser hooked up to my neutral bar is that going to be a problem? or should i braid it with my G and attach it to my ground bar in pannel?

>> No.1061224

>>1052754
My friend wired up a sub panel without using antioxidant paste on is aluminum wire
I told him it was a problem but it probably won't be for a long time
He says he'll get around to putting it on there
Is he going to die?

>> No.1061238

>>1061224
what cheap mofo uses aluminum wire?

>> No.1061273

>>1061238
Everyone uses aluminum wire for heavy gauge
This is a 100A panel
100 feet of wire
The price of a massive gauge copper wire needed to carry 100 A 100 feet would be astronomical

>> No.1061353

>>1061273
Can confirm. Our cable to the house is approximately 120m,it needs to be 4x50mm^2. It wasn't cheap. Funny thing is I put a 5x6mm^2 cable in the same trench so that we have electricity by the shore and it cost approximately the same per meter...

>> No.1062741

>>1058529
Cause we're the best.
>>1058599
Not hard.
>>1058600
If it's over %80 of the breaker rating I'd go to the next size up for continuous duty.
30•.8=24

So do 40.
>>1058707
I've never done anything over 480v. Where's the line in commercial vs industrial?
>>1058715
By "ground" do you mean groundING conductor or groundED conductor? Either way try what >>1058753 said. Don't forget the main lugs as well.
>>1058733
My electrical license
>>1058737
Depends on the year/make/model. Basically there's a common feed. You tie it to the wire that powers the car. Then you take the wire that powers the ignition and touch that to your common/main power splice until the engine turns.
>>1058738
To each his own I guess
>>1058769
Suck my ass
>>1058946
It's 120v and 120v, together they equal 220v. Killing the main will kill the "rails" (they're called busbars) but the incoming conductors and lugs on the main breaker will be hot. Proceed with caution
>>1058981
Never seen it done, most people don't bother because of how far the power company will shove it's veiny cock up your ass
>>1059106
60hz cause murica
>>1059146
Alternate heavily used circuits between A and C phase
>>1059331
Like an arrow
>>1059376
Cause we have to work with lesser beings always fucking up our shit.
>>1059851
Dikes, linesmans pliers, screwdrivers, razor knife, drill, nut drivers, wire strippers, multimeter, NCVD (tick tracer) for starters
>>1059935
I speakers for those who have no voice
>>1060085
I think "some real fucking assholes out there touching dj it they shouldn't be touching"
>>1060184
There is most likely a seperate shutoff somewhere. Perhaps a fuse box with Edison fuses in it? They look like the bottom part of a light bulb. That or your mail breaker isn't functioning properly.

If you buy place, yes I'd replace the sub panel if you're getting the rest updated anyway.
>>1060320
No, 12ga is the proper size for 20 amp breakers.

>> No.1062753

>>1060496
Every electrician is going to work on up to 480v. Unless you stay strictly resi. Comes with the turf
>>1060526
High stress job? Idk. Most dangerous job in the US as far as I know.
>>1060699
https://www.google.com/search?q=leather+klein+tool+belt&start=20&client=ms-android-verizon&sa=N&biw=360&bih=560&tbs=vw:l,ss:9&tbm=shop&prmd=sivn&srpd=6329292176798816168&prds=epd:16789458133284236477,paur:ClkAsKraXwmRBW7gGoppie9qRUPUv8QrgUXVKaDrxJtCC7ZUJEOcLd_sqzwXzB_N2iacp-9OjmIlCAQbjWg1ZBHSebAC7sNefv9TmppeiQps3D0rhyZtGQlfyhIZAFPVH72i25hLj0oDtKemhP4FfZp8KrUTMA,cdl:1,cid:7471367838249176173&ved=0ahUKEwiY4dOG07TPAhUJQyYKHcVMBNE4FBCBNgijAzAF

Seems to be a little harder to find these days.
>>1061130
I'm having a hard time following. Do you have any pictures? General rule of thumb is neutrals stay with neutrals, grounds always stay with grounds. In the main panel is the only place they mix, and even then, seperate lugs.

I like miller highlife
>>1061224
No. He won't die. Worst case, his breaker burns up.

Supposedly the lugs are rated specifically for AL conductors. On some forums out there they debate the need for it at all these days.

To be clear, I always apply it.

>> No.1062767
File: 65 KB, 600x800, P1090407.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1062767

>>1061130
Just reread you're post and I think I have it figured out. Your unit is 220v? Assuming yes, you need your red and black as your hots and your bare as ground. It may not utilize the neutral (white) wire.

Hate to break it to you, but you probably just wasted your money on 3 wire.

Easiest thing to do now is cap off your white (again assuming it's not utilized) and wire in your 220v and ground wire.

>pic semi-related. Just make sure it's not so
.. melty

>> No.1062776

>>1052754
Stupid question.

I installed a new lamp on my ceiling. Is the earthing cable supposed to have power? Because mine does. Lamp works fine so far though.

>> No.1062842

>>1062776
No. How many volts?

>> No.1062845

>>1062776
how do you know it has power?

>> No.1062906

>>1052754
Why do I have to run a separate ground and neutral wire when they're literally connected to the same bar in the circuit breaker box?

>> No.1062928

>>1062906
its a backup for if the neutral fails.

>> No.1062929

>>1062906
Because they serve seperate functions. The ground wire is there for safety, it provides electricity a path to ground, helps with keeping equipment from becoming energized. Or, in other words, it gives it the same potential as the earth.

Neutrals are entirely seperate.

In order for a circuit to work, you need to provide it a path back to its source. It completes the circuit and carries a current.

In short:
ground wire = a non-current carrying conductor, there primarily for safety.

Neutral wire = completes a circuit so that electricity flows from the hot wire, through the equipment, and back to its source. It is a current carrying conductor.

>> No.1062948

I'm an idiot so I'm going to ask.

How do I find shit in walls?

I always fear cutting into a pipe, wire, or just missing the joist, so I never tend to do any addional works (I wire a current plug, but I won't add a new one).

How do I find shit?

>> No.1062976

>>1062906
The other two answers were shitty, so here's my shot:

When you're doing electrical work, you want your grounding path to be isolated from your circuit, in case of a ground fault. If you use the grounded conductor as your grounding conductor, and you break a connection while working, everything downstream from the connection in that circuit loses the grounding path, allowing any ground faults that might be there to fuck your day up.

That said, you COULD circumvent that issue by pig-tailing the neutral such that you can disconnect any individual device without breaking the branch circuit. But you still can't do that because code.

>>1062929
>ground wire = a non-current carrying conductor, there primarily for safety.

>Neutral wire = completes a circuit so that electricity flows from the hot wire, through the equipment, and back to its source. It is a current carrying conductor.

WRONG.

>> No.1062978

>>1062976
Oh, and to add:

My answer only really applies to nm cable work. If you're working with mc or emt or rigid, you are absolutely right. Back in the day (not anymore) you would just bond your device to the box. Each panel would be bonded to its ground bar. Every ground bar is bonded to the neutral bar at the disconnect immediately following the meter, which is bonded to earth/building steel/concrete.

But you still have to run a ground through every circuit because code.

At least we can still share the ground.

>> No.1062991
File: 480 KB, 1440x2560, Screenshot_20160929-193901.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1062991

>>1062976
>>1062978
This guy is dead fucking wrong.

I >>1062928 Am right

>> No.1062993
File: 339 KB, 1440x2560, Screenshot_20160929-194026.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1062993

>>1062991
>>1062976
>>1062978
Seriously. Do your research before spreading miss information

>> No.1062994
File: 2.01 MB, 260x260, 1466735727765.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1062994

>>1062978
>>1062976
Oh my God, you are so laughably wrong that it fucking hurts. You know nothing of grounding conductors or their purpose. What are you, a first year apprentice? "Because code"??? get the fuck out of this thread, you dangerous fucking hack.

They serve two very seperate, very distinct purposes.

>> No.1063001

>>1062948
>I'm an idiot so I'm going to ask.
Atta boy, that's how you learn
>How do I find shit?
Well there's a few ways

>I always fear missing the joist
This one is the easiest. 1. Buy an electronic stud finder. (Note: some have electric detectors, but they are shitty, at best)

2. Knock on the wall. If there's a stud it will have a distinct "solid" sound to it.

If there is no stud there will be a kind of "hollow" sound to it

>I always fear cutting into a pipe, wire
1. If you're that nervous, buy a long thin flathead screwdriver. Poke it into the way. Rotate the handle in a circular motion. If there's anything nearby the screwdriver will tap it and you'll feel it.

2. When cutting holes, use a sheet rock hand saw. Make slow deliberate slices. Pay attention for any change in "feel" to the saw. If you feel like there's more resitance, or that it's "catching", it's probably hitting something.

A lot of it is a developed "feel" for things, but if you just pay attention, it should be obviouse.

Also pay attention to what's around you, e.g. sinks, switches, outlets ect.

>> No.1063003

>>1062991
>>1062993
>>1062994

I don't see how I am wrong. You can use your neutral as both the grounding and the ground.

The reason you shouldn't is because breaking the neutral would also break your grounding path.

The images you posted also show that the neutral is bonded to ground.

>> No.1063005

>>1063003
>>>1062991 (You)
>>>1062993 (You)
>>>1062994 (You)
>I don't see how I am wrong. You can use your neutral as both the grounding and the ground.
No.
You.
Absolutely.
Cannot.

Neutral is GROUNDED conductor ONLY reason being, if you use it as a grounding conductor, and the neutral loses its connection to the neutral terminal in the panel, now every single box and metal appliance body is HOT.

Electricity is coming from the hot, feeding through the lightbulb, motor, whatever, and sitting on whatever you tied into the neutral.

>The reason you shouldn't is because breaking the neutral would also break your grounding path.

While simultaneously making everything tied to the neutral hot. Which is you you must never use your neutral to ground equipment
>The images you posted also show that the neutral is bonded to ground.

Yes but only in the panel at the very end of the circuit.

>> No.1063010

>>1063005
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_and_neutral

Here. Im bad at explaining things. But there's a section in this article that explains the effects of combining them, and why in MOST cases, it's avoided.

Sorry if I insulted you.

>> No.1063105

I have a house 1915ish. The sink has an outlet close enough that the town tells me it needs to be GFI. Swaped out the outlet but I can't get it back into the outlet box. Its so close to fitting but it doesn't. Problem is its plaster and lathe and some places its 1/2 inch some places its like 2'' and similar to sawing concrete. Do I have any decent options.

>> No.1063110

>>1052754
Okay, so I'm at a crossroads. I've got a degree and have the opportunity to go further with a post-grad but I want to have a trade under my belt. Would any electrician in their right mind apprentice me? Electrical work has always interested me and I tried to apply to apprenticeships before going off to college but nobody called me on them.

>> No.1063120

is it safe to feed my cat noodles? they are penne if that matters, not bowtie... or farfale... wahtever...

>> No.1063150

>>1052754
I have a electronic keypad that I can't be programmed because the default supervisory code was changed. The manual states I have to rewire the power harness to boot it into programming mode. Is their way to create an alternative harness, using a breadboard or similar device. Any tools or methods you could recommend?

>> No.1063236

>>1063105
1. Assuming your panel is somewhat up to date, find the breaker that feeds it and install a gfi breaker. Then put a regular outlet back in. Probably the easiest solution.

2. Switch out the box to a deeper one, if at all possible. I would not recommend this because of the plaster. It's asking for trouble.

3. If the outlet doesnt need to be there, and there's enough countertop outlets to satisfy code, maybe you can cap the wires and blank it off.

I would suggest this as a last resort.

Another option would be to find the outlet that feeds this outlet, if there is one, replace that with a gfi and wire the feed for the sink off of the load side of the gfi. This is probably the most difficult for a lay person, as you would have to be proficient at tracing circuits.
>>1063110
I'm sure someone out there would, at the right price. It's gonna be years before you make any decent money as an electrician tho.
>>1063120
Dont see why not
>>1063150
Not really my field, sorry homie.

>> No.1063262
File: 354 KB, 640x480, Moe.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1063262

I'm wanting to buy or make a wireless light switch on a timmer so when I pull in my garage I just hit a button and the light are on. Instead of tripping over everything to turn the lights off. Any idea of something off the shelf before I design and build from scratch?

>> No.1063266

>>1063262
Option A. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/belkin-wemo-light-switch-white-light-gray/1218832.p?skuId=1218832&ref=212&loc=1&ksid=b73d0fb6-7b81-4af9-a55a-f0d8762c71ff&ksprof_id=401&ksaffcode=pg67721&ksdevice=m&gclid=CIrwp5Oet88CFQdZhgodnFIC_A

Option B: a motion sensor light switch if you don't want to be bothered with digging your phone out. http://www.houzz.com/photos/48244460/Vacancy-Motion-Sensor-Wall-Switch-SCR-180-Degree-Movement-Detector-Switch-White-contemporary-timers-and-lighting-controls

>> No.1063370

>>1052754
master tech here.


I know the answer but...

Why do fuses blow on vehicles with large batteries that are going dead?

>> No.1063448

>>1063370
Vdrop from the almost flat battery will cause an I increase when X load needs to draw it's X amount of power, it will get the power however it can and if you drop it's voltage, it will take more current to make up for it, hence blown fuse.

>> No.1063453

>>1053759
In a resistance circuit, nothing. amperage and power will decrease. your question has failed.

>> No.1063457

>>1053918
I usually just give them my work number for both. Emergency contacts go to my office where the secretary can get my info if needed.

>>1054236
No corrosion inhibitor used on the screw. Aluminum wire must have this! You're also splicing copper to aluminum.

>> No.1063463

>>1052754
Can you make a 110 outlet from a 220 outlet by using 2 of the wires? It's going to be for a shop vac. Table saw will be connected to another outlet

>> No.1063473

>>1063463
In the panel, disconnect one of the hots feeding the plug (both hots should be on a 2-pole breaker) and attach it to the neutral bus. That's the quickest way, but it's not up to code.

I'd then go back to the outlet and relabel the new neutral with white phasing tape, but that's up to you.

A more thorough job would be to disconnect both hots and replace the breaker with a single-pole. Reattach one of the hots, cap off the other, and attach the white to the neutral bus. Use a numbers book to label the neutral your just terminated with the circuit number. Go back to the outlet and attach the neutral and hot and cap off the hot you are no longer using. This assumes the plug is fed with 4-conductor cable to begin with.

>> No.1063574
File: 94 KB, 959x1084, 1453086636923.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1063574

>>1063457
>>1063453
>>1063448
>>1063473
This hoe, trying to jack my thread.

Nah, im playing he's giving solid answers

>> No.1063756
File: 26 KB, 500x364, Wago-221-Series-Lever-Wire-Connectors-vs-222-Lever-Nuts.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1063756

>>1052754
Is there an elegant way to remove wire from a 'push lock' connector?

The suggested way of wiggling it works - it just has to be done with such fervor that makes for dangerous ladder work.

I just bought a bin of Wago 221/222 connectors and use those instead for personal projects.

>> No.1063785

>>1052754
How would one steal electricity? It's been a topic in my local news lately and I have been curious as how one would do that besides just going into somone's house and just running cables and exstensions.

>> No.1063791

>>1063785
>besides just going into somone's house and just running cables and exstensions.
This is usually what happens (a lot of homes have exterior outlets you could use) but I remember once reading about people putting coils around power lines and stealing power by magnetic induction. I doubt it really works that well, though.

>> No.1063871

>>1063105
They make shallow gfci outlets that don't take up as much box spaces. Worth a try. If you have a picture of the box that would help

>> No.1063895
File: 66 KB, 400x329, 12699.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1063895

How long do these last compared to the twisty cap types?
(Not native English speaker)

>> No.1064035

>>1063756
Nope. I'd toss em out.
>>1063785
Bug to the load side of the meter. Just one leg, other wise they'd notice.

Or cut the tabs off the meter and shove a piece of busbar in the contacts.

Still, it's never a good idea.
>>1063895
I think they are not good.

I like wire nuts.

Not enough contact for flow of electricity. creates too much heat.

>> No.1064103

>>1064035
>wire nuts
amateur

>> No.1064435

>>1063448
no.. sorry..


The bad battery has a larger internal resistance, thus causing higher I....


. Ohms law.

>> No.1064698

>>1052754
I'm using an arduino to power a 12v 1A motor, would i be better off with a TIP120 or an NTD4906N MOSFET ?
would a MOSFET be worth investing in as well ?

>> No.1064749

>>1064698
Circuitry =/= electrician