/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>788941
oh great 3 at a time.

>>788945
The original /3dpg/ is at its bump limit
This is the new one.

I cant stop people other people from making random 3d printer threads.

how hard is it to print out a multi-rotor rc copter?

What are some good time lapse software, looking at setting up some videos for some of the various prints I do.

Also little something to help out.

For those interested

Great printers, great support from the community and from the company, lots of mods out there:
printerbot simple maker's kit 149
printerbot simple metal (kit or prebuilt) 539-599+
Makerfarm prusa 13v 540+
Fusematic 849
flashforge (or others like it) 977+
seemecnc rostock v2 999
seemecnc orion delta 1374
lulzbot mini 1350
ultimaker 1 1379
makergear m2 1475
lulzbot taz 5 2200
ultimaker 2 2602

All of the machines above have great support, documented history, communities, mod ability, and print very very well

Filament options:
Pla/ABS 30 for good quality
T-Glase 34+
Ninjaflex 52+
Semiflex 52+
Carbon fiber 60+
Woodfill 60+
bronzefill/copperfil 73+

Slicers:
Slic3r
Cura
kisslicer
skeinforge
replicatorG
simplify 3d 149 (fucking worth it, get it when you get your machine, dont be a jew)

Must have tools:
Pliers
allen wrenches
screwdrivers
digital calipers
xacto knife
UHU glue sticks
super glue
patience

>>788956
>simplify 3d 149 (fucking worth it, get it when you get your machine, dont be a jew)
Not in my experience. It's DRM cecks force me to connect my printing PC to the internet on random basis and the g-code it produces is inferior to what I get from Slic3r.

>>788956
>What are some good time lapse software

I personally run Octoprint to control my printer, it has time lapse and camera support built in.
Its a great little thing to run if you have an old raspberry pi laying around

I have no experience in other time lapse software, I bought my webcam specifically to run with octoprint. It works decent.

>>788956
>UHU glue sticks

elmers purple is awesome, it turns purple when you get it wet to wipe it off.

>>788966
have you tried playing with the default settings for s3d? I had to for my printer at least. For me I get the same quality, but better tool paths and well their structure support is fantastic.

>>788967
Oh I did not know octoprint had built in time lapse software for it, since I have an icd for my printer, I always print via sd so I completely written off the raspberry stuff.

>>788951
Depends on how big you want it to be.
The parts are a pretty basic thing to print though.

>>788951
should check out printing the parts in PET+ prints like PLA more or less, and stronger than ABS, naturally hydrophobic, doesn't need a heated bed to print, doesn't smell terrible when printing

>>788969
tweaking a slicer setting and trying to print again, working with the sd would be a pain in the ass. i just run direct over usb

>>788967
i was about to say. i haven't tried octoprint yet, but i knew it did camera stuff. i've herd it described as a baby monitor for your printer

>>788956
>Makerfarm prusa 13v 540+
i3v*

>Must have tools:
acetone

>>788969
>have you tried playing with the default settings
jea. It still sucks for smal parts.
Also I would expect hole size correction for 150$. Didn't get it.

>>788974
>i've herd it described as a baby monitor for your printer

Its a nice all in one package for people who dont want to be right next to their printer all the time. Its really nice for people who have their main computer away from the printer, I have never liked using print from SD.

>>788974
will def have to check it out

and yep sorry about that, will update for elmers purple, fix the i3v, add acetone, I also will add the kossel and its mini brother.

>>788977
Remember that Acetone is only useful for ABS, its worthless for PLA.

>>788980
Yep, that's probably why I forgot it in the first place, I recently got 4 rolls of prototype supply pla in different colors, and have been printing various game pieces for friends with it

So I'm kind of interested in a 3d printer but since I've never actually seen or used one I don't know how EXACTLY(important to make one) they work and what to watch out for.
I've been reading that guide in the OP about 3d printers and the delta style really stands out for it's build simplicity and worksize(well length), in particular this one : http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock_MAX
I want to build it myself from scratch.

I have a bit of experience with electronics like this but not with the extruder and the printed parts.
I have a decent amount of experience in modelling in solidworks if that's usable(probably is). Where do I source parts in Europe for a decent price? What are issues delta printers have?
I'd appreciate someone sharing his experience with one.

Reposting from previous thread. What's the point of a new thread if threads die after a few DAYS after hitting the cap?

>>789023
>What are issues delta printers have?
-the dimensions of the arms and middle piece are critical for positioning.
-It can be hard to ballance the middle piece propperly (thats why many deltas use bowden extruders)
-You need 3 long linear guides for a tall volume instead of 2 medium and 1 long with an X-head Y/Z-bed design.
-A decent XY-head Z-bed design has all the advantages of a delta without the disadvantages.

>What's the point of a new thread
Most people in here aren't used to /diy/ yet.

>>789023
>Where do I source parts in Europe for a decent price?
eBay, aliexpress, be slightly more cautious with the latter. If you don't have access to a 3D printer or a CNC already, you'll probably have to order a kit of a bunch of parts for the frame, or use 2020 aluminum, for 2020 the best source that ships to most of the EU is motedis.com. A rough estimate is that with 2020 the frame will be around 40-60 eur, shipping included. If you look hard enough you can usually find local suppliers too, but they're usually way more pricey.

>>789023
A lot of people bitch about calibrating delta's, yeah they take a little bit of time to calibrate them 100% but once you do, you basically never have to calibrate them again.
If you build it yourself def check out the carbon fiber arms with the ball joint makes your life easy ahead of time
Bowden's take a little bit of time to get used to, will take you about a day or a few prints to get used to it
You can find ton's of great effector plates online already, same for the arms, same for the bowden mounting stuff, if you check out the seemecnc forums there is a great amount of info there surrounding mods to the rostock, which is def worthwhile of checking out

Personally I use a rostock v2 I love it, really happy with it, as a matter of fact within the next month I am buying an E3D v6 for it to upgrade the J head that I currently have for it.

>>789087
>>789080
>>789076
cheers!

>>788981
i only recently started using abs and acetone is perfect for it. the abs slurry is the easiest thing to clean off (it kinda works with pla, i've only tried it once so far) and the slurry is great for glueing pieces together. when you work with small pieces you'll definitely notice how brittle pla is and how flexible abs is

>>789023
I'd say for the first one, look at kits.
once you have experience and a printer to make some of your parts with then you can build your a better one more geared toward what you really end up using it for.

>new threads
I'd be happy if people just didn't go off and make another thread asking what printer they should get when we have this line of threads. You'd think if they were to start the next one, they'd atleast copy over the OP info and correctly. Also I like how there's a link to the old thread in the OP for archival reasons.

>>788977
That's still a nice list you have there. The only other thing I'd add is some green text to add some formatting to it

What do you think about the Peachy Printer? Would that be beginner friendly?

I'd like to make trinkets, and maybe use it to model things at a 1:100 scale for metalwork.

>>789136
There are plenty of problems with the concept, also they don't relay like keeping their schedule.

>>789136
There are plenty of problems with the concept, also they don't realy like keeping their schedule.

>>789023
>What's the point of a new thread if threads die after a few DAYS after hitting the cap?

I made this thread, I only did it because someone made a really bad "3d printer general" with an off topic pic and in general it was bad. It was getting posts.

I decided to just stick with the formula from the original thread to hopefully snuff out the crap thread, so that there isnt a thread war.

The fact that it wasnt bumping means there were genuine 3d printer questions being asked in the shitty thread.

Are we supposed to let them 404 before new threads?
I dont want to stir controversy and I dont want to be OP for all the threads or whatever, I just didnt want there to be a big disconnect with the threads.

Im from /sp/ and fractured threads are terrible and cause issues.

>>789087
>Bowden's take a little bit of time to get used to
i hate the part about Hysteresis and them not printing as nice as they could.

but then. my delta printer is a custom design and has some other problems too. these are caused by the clearance of the parts involved and cause bad print quality... much easier to get it right with a classical design like the prusa or mendels

>>789153
And something else to consider is why would you ask a question in a thread that's about to die. I'm a /g/ resident and as soon the thread hits its cap, there's a new one right around the corner. As long as we carry the OP info that we build upon and link to the previous thread for easy archival look up I'm happy.

>>789171
willing to bet if you cleared up the other issues, most of your issues would go away, it's possible to do a direct drive on a delta style but wouldn't suggest it since all that extra weight would just fuck up it's positional accuracy

>>789136
Have you seen how hard it is to actually put together?

And you have to rig up the reservoir.
Its going to be a lot tougher than all of the kickstarters thought.

>>789191
>>789153
Because threads can last for days after hitting the cap.
lrn2slowboards

>>789354
>Because threads can last for days after hitting the cap.

If its not bumping, how do you expect to get an answer?
Hope that a regular comes by and uses the catalog to find an old thread?

There is no reason to stunt discussion.

Has anyone here been able to make a profit from their 3D printer? Like charging people for prints or something? I'm at university right now so there's probably a lot of labs that would pay for small prototypes or something.

>>789554
I've thought about it, but so far the only way that would work would be to make casts of the print and then sell the casted product.
However designing reusable is harder to do, especially when not using silicone.

>>789554
The prints most people want end up being big or really complex, and you could lose time and money if your print fails halfway through.

Also a lot of people have the issue of customers not knowing exactly what they are getting with a 3d printed part. They are going to expect injected quality.

Ebay and printer parts seem like a safe way to make a little bit of cash.

this pretty much
>>789562
>>789602
also you'll find if you print and paint gameboard pieces it's a lot of work for maybe selling one set a month

>>789602
If you have a filament extruder (one of the few!) you could recycle the failed prints.

How's the Reprap Wallace model? Pretty good?

>>789868
Its an old design that looks inferior to the Prusa i3, to be perfectly honest.
At least the I3 has had its kinks worked out, the wallace looks like it hasnt been updated in 3 years.

Could you 3d print a phonecase partially,stick some wires in them,and continue to print just fine?

I want to 3dprint a phone case with a usb port like my picture,for USB OTG

>>790123
yes you could. but you need to ensure that whatever you put inside during the paused print does not go above the layer that is currently printed.

>>789378
Yes, there is no reason not to use the catalog.

>>790123
the best way is probably create a hole in the model for it to go in so you can set it in there then continue the print after the cable or whatever is inserted

>>788941
In regards to these printers what is the availability and pricing on metal printers?

>>790166
to print metal or metal frames

>>790218
Print metal

>>790232
As of what is available right now, you could sell your house and wouldn't even get close to affording one.

But there are some projects that are or were funded on kikestarter, not holding my breath on them right now

best bet get a cnc machine/shapeoko/inventables

>>790166
>>790238
yeah, metal fabrication is a ways off. best stick to traditional machine shop methods for that. if you wanted to do homebrew casting, then sure.

>>790218
Metal frames would be nice for DIY wood phone cases.

Do z anti backlash nuts actually work

>>790836
from my experience to an extent, they greatly help to reduce the backlash if it is already present or wrecking your prints, they won't completely solve the backlash issue, but fix it enough were it isn't a problem to worry about.

So I hope to build the Rostock printer.

http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock

The wiki says to use a RAMPS 1.4 board (you can use others but I guess I'll stick with that one).

Only problem is I have no electronics experience. I can figure out basic wiring stuff but I have no idea on boards.

Is it possible to just buy a pre-made board?

>>791090
Yeah man, Ramps 1.4 boards can be for for a little over 10$ on ebay.

You will need to attach the ramps board to an Arduino Mega2560 board (around 10$ on ebay), and you will need to buy 4 stepsticks (sets cost around 10$ on ebay, A4988 is the cheap standard)

Thats all of the electronic boards you will need to run a reprap if you want to go with a Ramps.

>>791096
dont forget a PSU and jumpers and heat sinks for your stepperdrivers

you can get them in ready to use kits on ebay or amazon, pretty cheap

>>791101
Yeah make sure the Ramps come with jumpers and that stepsticks you get have heatsinks.

For the PSU, if you go 12v the 30A 360w LED drivers like the Supernights are great.
You can get away with lower rated PSUs, but dont bother.

>>791096
>>791101
>>791106
I found these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261742794098
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261665271557
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131423448969


I can pick some jumpers up at a local electronics shop, and I'm fairly sure somebody I know has a spare PSU from when they upgraded their PC.

>>791112
Looks good to me, the jumpers look included with the Ramps board too.

You can use regular ATX power supplies, google for a guide on how to.

>>791090
another little piece of advice, get yourself some of those male to female connectors for the hotend, makes your life super easy when you upgrade hotends. And get yourself some motor dampers, and if you don't mind spending a bit extra get yourself some of the magnetic ball arms from tricklaser, the default arms are already, but holy fuck the magnetic balls mod is just killer

>>789080
Thanks for the site.
Building a 3Up and was a pain sourcing the extrusions since Misumi don't sell to individuals in Europe.

Hi everyone, newbie here.

I am a sole proprietor for a retail smoke accessory online shop (had to take the website down and go on a hiatus due to mental health issues) but I wanted to 3D print prototypes for cool product ideas I had.

ABS has a neurotoxic nature and PLA is apparently compostable/biodegradable to the point where it wouldn't be useful for smoking at all, beyond that fungi and bacteria can live on the surface and in pores (ABS can undergo the acetone finish). PLA is also not too sturdy for what I'll be doing.

http://www.marijuana.com/community/threads/getting-high-with-a-3-d-printed-bong.309106/

I would really appreciate some help because I'm not sure if ABS with acetone finish is safe to smoke out of, apparently one brave soul used PLA already and the only problem was the solidity.

Babbys first printer will be:
https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/printrbot-simple-metal

I make models with Tinkercad for now. Plan on making smaller pieces of products and piecing them together.

All advice appreciated, constructive criticism as well, including "You stupid fuck you're supposed to do [A] not [B] and heres why: [C]"

>>791163
Any decent filament maker has MSDS sheets you can read, so maybe youll find some premium filaments of different types that are safer.

Im going to be honest, not sure if you will find anything remotely safe to smoke out of.

>>791174
thanks for the information, didn't even think about MSDS sheets.

>>791163
>I make models with Tinkercad for now

Get 123D, gives you something similar to tinkercad but much more powerful.

>>791174
Yeah and some of those exotic filaments like the clay stuff and the bronze fil/copper fill are PLA based.
The only that I can think that is somewhat flame safe is PET+, shit is expensive and not sure how bad the that is to smoke out of, nor how food safe it is.

printing prototypes fuck yeah go for it, making molds fuck yeah go for it, but to smoke out of it, your gonna have a bad time.

>>791177
>>791178
Again thank you anons!

So far from scouring some guides, youtube videos, etc I've learned:
>Temperature can make a difference when printing, try to keep the room a steady room temperature or slightly cooler
>ABS can be toxic, whether printing or not, as super fine particles of ABS are not metabolized by the body in a good way, PLA however isn't a problem
>If printing with ABS be safe and ensure there is proper ventilation where you are, stop printing and seek help if you experience a headache, nausea, irritation of the eyes/skin/mouth
>You can smoke out of PLA but for long term practical use, it seems improbable

Quick question, for the Printrbot simple, if I'm gonna be printing with exotic and PLA should I get the heated plate? Can anyone explain that to me? I'm deducing its to make sure ABS sticks to the platform allowing for greater printing accuracy.

Pic unrelated, something I made for teenagers.

>>791205
IMO, every printer should have a heated bed
I use a heated plate and I print mostly PLA, it really helps adhesion.

>>791205
yeah get the heated bed, and later on when you start working on printing the more exotic filaments get yourself an e3d hotend when you actually are ready to start printing with that cool shit

I just want to point out that normal gluesticks do not work at all. I ran out of purple and it sticks worse than normal bare glass. I actually feel kind of naked without it.

>>791239
yep stick with uhu or purple

>>791239
I bought Roseart sticks and they werent very good. Its adhesion was marginal, but the big issue was it was hell to clean off and reapply

I found the disappearing purple elmers works wonders, much much better.

What was the actual brand of stick you had issues with?

>>791248
Elmers Craft Bond All Purpose - dries hard. Elmers Disappearing Purple all day, or at least until tomorrow. Until then, I'm about to try Elmer's school glue. Hopefully it's PVA.

>>791259
I just realized dissolvable support filament is made from school glue.

>>791259
School glue works very well with PLA. A few dots with a wet sponge brush is enough though it supposedly dries too hard after a few days and isn't listed as a bed adhesive for ABS.

>>791205
http://3dprint.com/52713/indmatec-peek-fdm-printing-filament/
Might interest you. You will need a good hotend though.

How suitable is a ATX power supply?

>>791328
Depends on its quality, some of them you have to modify to work. They arent made to push straight 12v, so you have to buy a higher wattage one with enough power on the 12v rail.
I wouldnt trust a cheap OEM one or something like that.

The LED Drivers are a lot less hassle, and their size is a lot better.

>>791335
Free beats anything though. Already have a brand PSU with 2x 18 amp rails. The specified power maximum for the 12v is 300w. That's not a bad number right?

>>791163
PLA has a glas transition point of around 60°C, ABS is around 105°C. Way before reaching these temps the material is not solid anymore and deforms.

i doubt these temps would be fitting your needs

>>791328
I started with a dell external power brick that's meant for small form factor desktops. it's rated 12v 18a but then it started skipping steps and dimming the lcd. ever since i switched over to a real atc psu i've been good. it's old and rated about 300watt but has one 12v rail rated at 15a and i've been good since then. my meters were saying there's a 10amp draw at 12v. the dell power brick was dipping as low as 8v. the cheap old atx psu has stayed well above 10v even at that load.

so yeah, if you have an atx psu laying around, give that a try.

>>791349
2x 18a should work fine
When you get your ramps, use one rail on the 11a connector, and the other rail on the 5v connector and you wont run into any problems.

>>791544
I should iterate that the problems come from cheap PSUs that are rated "400w", but put out most of the amperage on the 5v where its useless and only give you like 13a on the 12v rails.

Mix that with cheap PSUs not putting out the amperage they are rated for, and that the Ramps 1.4 requires at least 16A 12v (11 and 5). Since it requires 16, you want overhead. Running a PSU for a 12 hour print at 95% of the rated PSU power will kill your PSU sooner rather than later.

Its the same idea with picking a regular gaming PC PSU.

>>791549
thats why people should spring for the bronze/silver/gold/plat rated psu's no matter their budget for pc or building a printer

had way to many cheap PSUs crap out or send an over voltage in previous PCs never again.

Hi, I'm new to this board, wasn't really sure what section this would be in tbh. Say I wanted to get into making character figurines. I can sculpt them in 3D software to really good detail easily enough. So if I wanted to print them out, what would be the best way to go about it. Are there a lot of printers that do colour? or would it be best to hand paint, I also see that a lot of the time the models come out quite rough surface wise, are there printers that do smoother surfaces? or is that more an after thing. Would it be more prudent to send models to company that does the 3D printing over actually owning my own one. It seems like there is a shit ton of information about it, just really hard to find specifically what I want.

>>791686
if you're not sure about getting into the actual printing try 3dhubs.com you can normally find some good deal locally.

I'm trying to find the cheapest way to get a prusa that isn't acrylic, my current plan is
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Geeetech-Black-Acrylic-Frame-Prusa-Mendel-Unassembled-I3-Sanguinololu-LCD2004-/231455591101
+
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prusa-i3-Composite-Frame-Metalic-Silver-/181704288052?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2a4e6b6734

does that make sense?

>>791686
Affordable printers do only one colors.

A slow print and low layer heights on a well calibrated machine can get some decent results that you could paint.

The problem is, small you want the object to be, the harder it is to print especially in high quality.
That and any /diy/ printer that you are going to be putting together has a huge learning curve, which could be more of a hobby than just printing out some figurines.

Not that buying a premade printer is bad, but they are costly. You CAN get just as good of prints out of a reprap as say an Ultimaker, its just whether you want to dedicate the time to do it.

So yeah, you can do it but it depends on your dedication to your printer, or your willingness to shell out the cash for a production printer.


No clue on having things printed by companies.

I want one of these gigantic 3D cement printers. As somebody who has no experience in building stuff like this, what are the chances of me designing and assembling one?

A better and more realistic question is who would I ask to build one for me? What kind of company takes requests like this? Caterpillar?

>>791686
Easiest and most pain free way to get something printed 3dhubs makexyz and shapeways.

If you mean multicolor as in two different colors at once, then yes check out dual extruder machines / upgrade the hot end to an e3d kracken.

honestly it easy easier just to paint and you can get much more detail. I've heard good things about the paint from gamesworkshop, use emanel/oil based paints. You will want to smooth things out first, then primer is your best friend. Also you can airbrush as well.

Far as smoothing out, if you print in ABS can smooth it out using an acetone vapor bath, or use a good primer to help reduce the look of the layers. Also can try a wac carving pen, example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dental-Lab-Electric-Wax-Waxer-Carving-Pen-Pencil-Carver-with-6-Tips-Laboratory-/151630567983?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item234de2da2f

If you are still worried about detail and smoothness of your character prints, if you don't mind them being small, check out a resin based printer such as the Form+1

just as >>791711
said 3d printing is a steep learning curve, but depending on if you are building a reprap or buying a kit or a premade the experience is more or less the same. Some of the higher end printers, are just about plug and play ready and produce great results out of the box. But yes you can get great quality prints out of a reprap as long as it has quality parts and have the time to spend to get it to print that way. Same thing applies to the higher ends, you gotta spend time with it, take notes, try a print, watch it fail and see what it failed and adjust.

tl;dr for getting something printed, 3dhubs, makexyz, shapeways; want to get into printing as a hobby, get a reprap or see >>788956
for painting, use primer, good quality paint thats used on cast metal models, or airbrush

>>791717
most plant construction and engineering companies (i'd expect way over 100k$ for development, testing and material)

from the picture it looks like every other shop could weld up a frame like that. The rails seem to be simple steel pieces with rollers riding on them (cheap). I don't know but maybe, because it moves very slow, you wouldn't even need very big motors. Control it with linuxcnc and you maybe could do it for a few k$. Hardest part would be the nozzle and get the mixture right, i'd guess.

>>791732
>i'd expect way over 100k$
This is the problem. I was hoping more like $20k. It's like you were saying, the materials shouldn't cost more than $15k including the motors and cement extruder. And after that it's just what I would assume to be a fairly simple xyz crane.

So, I have a Printrbot Simple 1401 and I've been trying to upgrade it to be more reliable. The 1401 was the last PB model to have the kevlar string setup, and it's kind of awful. If my prints are bigger than ~30mm in either the X or Y direction, the axes drift a whole lot. I've been trying to print parts to upgrade it to a MendelMax style GT2 belt setup ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:194686 ), but the printable X-axis motor mount plate is coming out skewed. I've tried doing everything I can to keep it on track for one last print with the string+sanding drum setup, but it's just not happening.

Would it be worth it to attempt to modify the existing wooden motor mount plate, or should I just suckle on Brook Drumm's teet and spend more than the printer is worth on the official Printrbot MXL belt kit?

>Makerspace opens in town on Wednesday
>Not going to make it because visiting family
>I am dying on the inside

>>791205
Going off of this.

https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/rostock-max

http://seemecnc.com/products/orion-delta-3d-printer?variant=373389163

http://printrbot.com/shop/assembled-simple-metal-with-heated-bed/

https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/kossel


I'm deciding between printers and so far these four are the best candidates. Can anyone point me to the best mods? I want to get heavy into customization to make my printer as efficient as possible.

To be honest, I'm a complete noob, but I need precision and speed to 3D print products for my small business. I print bongs and related items, so PLA is the main material. I'm not willing to use acetone treated ABS, and its not realistic for me to use exotics as the costs are too high for production. PLA is just right for the size of most of my products (12''-18'', the higher ones being foldable/collapsable).

>>791317
Will be using this material for accessories

>>791220
Duly Noted, thank you.

>>791230
Duly noted, I'll be going with that right off the bat probably, thank you.

>>791764
I use the rostock max v2
I love this thing to pieces.
For modding this one, look into motor dampers, carbon fiber arms with the magnetic ball joints and upgrade to an e3d v6. and you will have one steller printer that will last you many years to come and print faster and some goodly print quality even when compared to stuff like lulzbot and ultimaker.
Yeah you will have to build it yourself which will take you about a week, don't bother with matter controller its a piece of shit, seemecnc support and staff are great, the times I have reached out to them they have got back to me under 4 minutes. Also you tell them you are a small business they might be willing to cut you a discount / give you some extra help.
Also sense you would primarily be printing in PLA get yourself some UHU / elmers purple glue sticks I find it works better than printing on painters tape.
Also start out in repetier host, after you feel more comfortable with how the settings work and how they make your print successful or not, I highly highly suggest getting smpilify3d, I find it gets better tool paths, a tiny bit faster, great quality and more settings and adjustable support than you can shake a stick at.

>>791762
Shoot them an email, see if they would be kind enough to run the print for you and hold on to it, till you can pick it up, or one of their members leaves it at your door step

>>791704
>>791711
>>791721

Cheers for all the help guys

>>791549
>>791544
I'm going to assume "5v" means 5 A and not 5 volts.

>>791738
>>791732
you don't need any expensive stuff.


aluminum truss or traverse on ebay. around 100 usd/meter
you need what? 14 meters of these (pic >>791717 )
then motors is really only a question on how fast you want to move the construction, yes you could do with the nema 17 10usd stepper motors or you could get some heavy ones at around 500usd
some machined metal gears and a machined print head, but for cement you could simply use a pipe and a cement pump (but better desing something on your own, these pumps cost way too much)

>>791772
The rostock looks incredibly simple and cheap to build. How correct would that statement be?

>>791813
Thank you based anon. I've been calling local engineering and cnc companies all day and this is the most help I have had. The only person who had the slightest clue as to what I was talking about said he is gonna talk it over with his colleague but it would most likely cost a lot. If I had to guess I would say he is thinking $200k-$500k.

I want it to be larger than the one in that image. 10x20x15 meters I'm thinking and easily disassembled. I live in Aus so the prices might be a bit more expensive than your estimates but I would be happy if I could just keep it under $15k. I think I'm going to try to hire an engineering student from my local college and then we will build it together.

>>791821
Another group in my class had to design a 3d printer, and specifically one for concrete. The hardaest thing they had to solve was the extruder. Concrete is just not easy to push through a nozzle in a reliable way. Also the fact that normal concrete doesn't harden upon leaving the nozzle makes things less then optimal. Not to mention concrete drying in the nozzle itself. Just know what you're getting yourself into.

>>791816
incredible correct.

except you will get a shitload of bad print quality if you allow too much cheapness. my rostock variant has lots of play between components (we speak about micrometers here) and the head is shaking and wobbling and shit

even though i got like machined smooth rods i decided to go with cheap ass LM8UUs. Guess what... bad idea

not like you can't google for concrete printer or something like that. so this guy is using NEMA34s... at 400usd per motor, you need like 5 on a design that big, maybe one less if you work with counterweights but that would cost more than one extra motor

http://www.geeky-gadgets.com/concrete-3d-printer-created-using-reprap-and-pronterface-video-29-05-2014/

and so on

>>791824
Yeah, I will have to spend a couple of months getting the cement mix just right.

Which reprap 3D printer is most similar in design to a Concrete printer? If I use the blue prints from the reprap I suppose I could just increase the size of everything to get a large concrete printer. It'd be a start anyway.

>>791816
yeah they are super easy to build, can source the parts easily and for fairly inexpensive even the laser cut wood.
most of your time building it is spend on wiring and check that things are 100% level and square

>>791809
Yeah, he is talking about the 5A side of the removable power terminals for Ramps 1.4/

>>791847
You could try looking into mixing in your extruderhead, be it water and cement

>>791977
I'm not the guy who wants to build the concrete printer, but, you think that a waterjet cutter-style nozzle setup could be modified to mix enough powdered concrete with the water to provide a reasonable extrusion?

>>791738
Assuming your $15k number is right for parts...
a good ball park figure is 2x the parts cost for unskilled labor, 3-5x the part cost for skilled, and 10x+ for expert. when you are building something relatively new in design, you need expert labor.
so 100k would be the cost if you got your expert cheap, and everything worked right the first time.

Post speeds and cooling settings for smal pieces with convex overhangs please.

An American gun manufacture arguably created the assembly line decades and decades ago before ford came along.

The 3d printer industry needs to focus on a printer than can quickly and cheaply produce receivers for gun enthusiast.

If the 3d printer industry can offer a printer that creates lowers for 25 dollars each for 300 dollars...

Wtf ?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rKaDC36Ph5Q

>>792020
Actually i was thinking of a circular "guillotine" door system.
When you move left, the door is on the right.
Using a reasonable sized door 60mm or someting, paired with a very slow feed and a stiff pasty mixture you can get some production going.

Although i know cleaning is going to be alot of work

>>792301
Not same question but still relevant.

From work i have a contraption to cool air to a temprature ranging -20 and -40 Celcius.
If printing PLA, and keeping my extruder hot enough. will the machine be able to achieve very high feed/print rates?

Or would the PLA just stop melding with the previous layer because its too cold

I also had some ideas about spot cooling the just printed extrusion and keeping the rest of the piece at room temprature by immediately extracting the cold air with a fan and aswell cooling the extruder head with that air.

pic not related

>>792301
around 45 ms and 70% cooling, but it varies on material and printer
like when I'm printing abs around 55 ms and 50% cooling

>>792301
the only way you're doing convex is with support or rotate the part

>>792333
what is this contraption and i too am interested in "chilled air" cooling

pic kinda related, i made them. not the best but i'll try again later

i've noticed that for small stuff, abs might better cause it can withstand the heat build up. at least i didn't get and stringy mess from a differnt chair i made with abs. these were made with pla

>>792375
Its called a "cold air gun" or a vortex tube

and it really does live up to its name, requires nothing but compressed air, has no moving parts. and its REALLY cold

the one we use for grinding rubbers gets so cold the flexpipes are a solid piece of ice. measured between -30 and -35 celcius

but please, keep it down a bit, this might function really really good on a 3d printer

>>788941
Building a rostock printer and I was wondering about possible cooling options.

Pic related is a rough idea of the design. The black represents the rods for holding the rods, red represents the rods themselves.

The blue is my addition, it will work the same way as the standard 3 rods, where a motor will drive a belt, but attached to the belt will be a fan.

The Z position for this piece will be lower than the other 3 sections allowing it to cool the print.

To stop the fan from angling down due to the weight (which would give stress to the belt) I will have some metal rods in place (the light blue cuboids on the image). I'll modify the fans case to give it two holes which the rods will run through, giving it support.

This is a prototype for now, I am not an engineer though, so could somebody who has more knowledge on this give their insight as to whether they think this would be a good thing to try?

>>792384
that'sd

>>792384
that's a decent leap in cooling, but has anyone herd of using compressed air cooling as opposed to just fans blowing?

>>792397
why not just mount a fan to the frame that blows towards the print.
or get one of those camera mounts for an iphone that clips onto the vertical rods and modify it to mount a fan giving the same cooling right onto the first layers of the print.
If you are worried about pla cooling, try printing a few extra fan shrouds add them and wire them together, I haven't had a single issue with pla even with bridging or overhangs without support. On the stock effector plate they have mountings for up to three fan shrouds that blow onto the hotend tip, and I know I saw fan shroud that mount on the effector plate that blow onto the print as well.

>>792411
Reducing pressure using a box and a fan to get it to the cooling point is easyer than compressing it again though.

Honestly guys I'm trying to use fucking 123D and its a pain in the ass despite the tutorial videos, I'm gonna go ahead and try and remember hotkeys.

Its like they made it more complicated on purpose, I can't see the dimensions of the object and theres no main selection tool I can go back to after clicking some other tool. Tinkercad is easy as fuck but bulky and shit.

Any advice/help in this area?

>>792440
I honestly wasn't too impressed with 123D, tinkdercad is good for people new to CAD, stick with sketchup/solid works/openscad(if you want to rip your hair out)/ what ever you are more comfortable with

So I just figured out you can make your LCD buzzer go off when your print is finished by adding the M300 S~ P~ (sound and duration) command into Gcode

Its cool, im probably going to make it play a song or something.

>>792537
yeah, i'm sure there's still plenty of untapped Gcode that can be used. i remember cnc machines using g54, g55, etc, as work offsets. i was just thinking about this today and how the limit switches can be, well, used as limit switches, and then have multiple beds each with their own home offsets. You'd be able to have a print going on one bed as you clear and prep the other bed for printing again. however this probably won't happen being that we all know these machines aren't meant for mass production.

okay, after a little more testing, i'm now using cura as my main slicer. however the Cura GUI is shit and has no manual controls so i'm still using repetier-host as my main control program

>>792600
(damnit, missed my reasoning)
after seeing some guy named barnacules have such success with it, even on parts that fit together, i gave it another try and and printing out a .25" hole comes out only .003-.005" undersized compared to the .015-.020" i was getting with slic3r.

he's an ultimaker brandwhore but if it works for for him, it should work for anyone else on most other printers as well
https://www.youtube.com/user/barnacules1

>>792605
As much as I hate to admit it, I kinda like barnacules (even if most of his vids are filled with cringeworthy shit)
I found him looking through 3d stuff too

>>792608
yeah, don't like the quirkiness, but the actual printing isn't bad. also it's cool he's playing around with newer/exotic materials like that filament that's 80% bronze. That is a neat entry into metal printing with these desktop machines.

>>792374
That would explain it. I usually go for 80-100mm/s (you ment mm/s right?). But for parts I design with printing in mind.

>>792302
what's the point of badly printing things designed for mass production? Also there's a thing called CNC mill and cheap used ones go in the same price range as printers

>>792655
you are talking about desktop CNC routers right?

>>792542
you can simply replace the glasplate on your heated bed if you use one.

i do that if i want to print loads

>>792655
i like to have my testprints not cost a shitload of electricity, not cause a shit load of waste, not be freaking loud, not need special source material blocks, and the list goes on

>>792397
pointless and expensive. a 20 or 40 mm fan will not add much weight to the print head and can blow right where it's needed, if it's needed at all... my rostock would only need it for tall and small print areas, like for the eifel tower only the top 1%

>>792411
compressed air cooling is not gonna increase print quality and most likely will reduce it. you ideally want to put the materiall slightly below the glas transition temperature and let it cool from there for perfect prints

>>788941

>>792697

>>792625
yeah, save the upper bounds for non overhangs.


>>792605
>>792608
I like the time lapse, but if you dig deeper all the settings he uses for the filaments that he showcases are someone elses, he goes onto the forums and basically demands peoples settings. He's half retarded when it comes to 3d printing, he'll sit there and say all metal hot ends like the E3D are a rip off, even though he put one on the robo, and he'll feed those that are new/interested in 3d printing misinformation.

what are good filament brands?

living in europe looking for 3mm ABS around 30€/1kg(shipping included, so probably amazon)

also
my printer randomly fails to extrude material(no skipped steps), could the reason be that the filament was exposed to sunlight + absorbed humidity from air? (it was laying around for a month or so)

>>792758
i'm not sure about europe, but filament suppliers is probably something to add to the next OP post.
I've gotten mine from http://pushplastic.com/ for $30 a kg with free 3day shipping

i haven't had any feed issues yet, but neither of those i would expect to cause problems.

>>792758
not sure if you can get these in EU
but prototype suuply, gizmo dorks, hatchbox, octave, JET

>>792758
How we prevent the companies to become another form of ink jews?

>>792839
Extruding your own filament?
You can even play with alternative plastics, like nylon!

>>792843
i was getting some other shit yesterday and saw weed wacker line. it was all star or hexagon shaped. fuck

>>792302
We already have manufacturers who make Polymer receivers that routinely go on sale for 40-50$ a piece.

They are absolute dogshit, yet much stronger than anything 3d printed in plastic.

3d Printing guns is a joke.

>>792706
It must be pretty nice to be sponsored to where you get a free Ultimaker 1 (and now he has a 2) and get free filament (pimping out the XT colorfab stuff)

He isnt a 3d printer enthusiast, he is a dude trying to make a living making youtube videos.

>>792758
I bought several rolls of Push Plastic when it went on sale for black friday.
3kg for 60$ shipped.
Turns out they are big on Amazon too, but I ordered directly from their site.

Its been fine for me, its made in the USA from a big plastic manufacturer and its tolerances have been good from what I have checked.

Its much better than the cheap chinese stuff I started with.

>>792706
>>792859

i will say that this is the video that got me to even bother looking up who this guy even is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uuvE8Cin1Cw

Hahaha new kikestarter did an AMA on the 3d printing subreddit and getting torn to shreds
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/318pu4/tiko_3d_ama_we_are_tiko_3d_and_were_on/

>>792926
Man, I looked at the kickstarter and it looks interesting.
I dont hate the design at all, its actually pretty neat and if it delivers on what it says it could be pretty cool for a cheap printer.

Then I looked at the AMA, not sure I like the way they are coming across as a company.

>>792931
i agree. all they've said is the type of motors they are using. and from that, we know that this is going to be slow as fuck

>>792931
They are using 28BYJ-48's motors, the cheapest chinese motors they can get, they give less then 10% of the torque of the standard nema 17s that just about every since 3d printer uses.
Go to fast you burn out the motors, and snap the arms and effector plate.
closed source slicing software, that you have to access over wifi, they dodged the question about security surrounding the wifi of it.
dodging questions if the print surface is toxic/ puts off gas if heated.
and getting butthurt over people asking them questions about their shoddy design

>>792926
>We're trying to discourage pseudo-innovation. ie: cloning and knock-offs.

BWAHAHAHAHAHA
Its a fucking Delta/Rostock clone with cheap parts.

I have this dishwasher that has a broken part, would it be possible to get someone with a 3d printer to make the part? the part isnt made anymore and I am tired of hand washing shit.

>>792965
Depends on what the part is, and if you can 3d model it accurately yourself.

If you have a good model of it, you could easily pay one of the many companies to print it for you.

>>792967
hmm ok I'll look into it

>>792965
if you can model decently, or don't mind passing over the part to someone that can model, yeah sure can.
And will probably want it in one of the filament types that supports high temps so it won't warp from the heat of the water or the heat that remains inside of the washer.

>>792945
kek

>$100k goal
>day 3
>over $650k
fucking people

also
>non-proprietary
>that whole ama
idk, this is funny and sad

>>792980
I really do enjoy how buttmad they were getting in that AMA, after the ama first started they made comments on their kikestarter for backers only, and got rid of all comments pointing to the AMA / people informing the backers what they were getting into.

So by what month/year do you see them go belly up? I'm betting by december 2015 they wont be heard from anymore and will have issues giving refunds/ have a lawsuit against them like some of the other kickstarter FDM printers.

>>792980
I was bored so I actually looked into the AMA closer, and holy shit these people are insane.
I feel bad for all the Backers.

>>792982
Nah, they wont shit out that fast.
They will just post delay after delay after delay while slowly burning their money. Theyll just go AWOL sometime in mid 2016.

In the AMA, I read that the 3 dudes who are making this are dropping out of school to college to work on this full time.
Good luck.

>>792985
Hahahaha fucking lol, I must have missed that part. But I do the part when they bring up the already have a large law firm on their side, and they will sue clone's, companies and people that "steal their design and what not" fucking kek.

and that software, only can change infill, supports, layer height and the extruder temp. Max speed at around 40 mm/s for a delta, those buck motors are sure great.

>>792989
They are being put together and shipped from china
Their patents (if they even get approved) will be worthless to the motherfuckers literally building the machines.

If its a decent machine, we will see clones on Aliexpress before these idiots even ship them out.

>>792989
>>792985
>>792982

I can't believe that they actually think that they're innovative.

>Using GT2 belt as rack and pinion
>Printer completely separates from print bed
>using motors with almost no holding torque

Good luck with your layer adhesion, kids.

>>792991
I will admit if it was open source and had better hardware, for sub $600 usd, I'd be somewhat interested. But after dat AMA no way in fuck.
And yeah patents are pretty much useless these days unless you are already at the top of the pecking order of companies already.

>>792994
I was considering one because under 200$ is chump change in this hobby, it would have been nice to maybe have a second printer in case I break some parts or something, maybe lend it to a friend I cant convince to get into printing.
I like the delta style too.

But their AMA really killed the marginal interest that I had.
It was a serious train wreck.

Why would you do an AMA if you are not going to disclose anything about your printer?
Everything they said was purely a negative.

Looking around the reddit 3d printing board I saw the new E3D hotend.

PLA and ABS only, PTFE liner inside.

Its only 35$ from filastruder
Its cheaper than a genuine Jhead.
Looks like its going to be the new standard for replacement hotends.

>>793009
yeah, I figured most people saw their announcement, looks pretty fantastic and can swap out the cold end(aka the cooling fins) for the standard v6 and boom can get full coverage for material

>>793014
I have a full blown V6, and honestly kinda wish I had known this was to come out.

The V6lite will honestly probably jam less and print better with PLA, and I print a lot of PLA

>>793009
>>793015
can someone give a decent quick run down on hotends? i just have a .5mm jhead that came with my i3v and haven't had a single jam or any extruder issues from what i can tell

>>788941
check em

Basically what makes a difference in hotends is what material it is made out of.
The two most common styles you will see:
Peek, plastic cold end where all the cooling is done, it's easier to make so it's fairly cheep
All metal, the cold end is some type of metal, which is stronger, built to last longer and can handle higher temp zones.

The reason people go with all metal hot ends, it pretty much for ABS/ other exotic material that has to be hotter or has proven to be a struggle for a J head/ other peek style to print.

E3D is popular because it's proven, its durable, its long lasting, easy to install and great support from them.

What the lite offers is a cheap entry to a full metal hotend(With some restrictions) that costs less than the peek style offers, plus you can swap out the cold end for the full v6(which you can buy for fairly cheap) and boom you got a killer hotend that can print just about everything you want and could dream of.

>>793019
To add to this guys post and why im excited about the new E3D, people piecing their printers together may buy clone Jheads, or clone E3D hotends and they are very hit and miss causing lots of problems.
I assume your hotend is genuine or at least high quality coming from Makerfarm hence why you havent had issues.
Cheap kits like Folgertechs that are so popular come with shit clone hotends too which need replaced.

Genuine Jheads were a great option, but are like 55$ before shipping. The clones are like 30$

The downfall of the Jhead are fixed nozzles, and PEEK meltdowns.

If your thermistor falls out or fails or whatever, and you overheat your Jhead, the plastic body will completely melt down.
You need to buy a completely new body for your hotend.

If you have the new E3D, you just replace the length of PTFE which is supposed to be less than a dollar.

Also you can have removable nozzles, so if you wanted to have something other than .5mm you have to buy a whole new block. In the E3D you just replace the nozzle for like 7$

Its a really nice option, and its the same price as an ebay clone hotend. Much needed with how popular cheap printer kits are getting.

>>793023
And with some hope we might start seeing e3d lites on the cheap kits / other printers in general. At 35 bucks I ordered two, one for my piece of shit robo3d that this might give me enough push to get this hunk of junk working properly and one for a buddy that just bought a kossel

>>792926
Why the FUCK are people still giving money to startup 3d printer companies on kickstarter?

Have there been any successful printers that actually shipped?

>>793035
Printrbot, back in the day.

I haven't seen any recent ones, though.

>>793035
A few but not many, like printrbot, form 1, lulzbot, kossel clear, rigidbot, rostock(SeemeCnc), but those that had success had people who already ran a business beforehand.

>>793037
>>793040
Damn, those are some big and well known names.
I had no clue.

Still, the many failures and scams running on kickstarter would scare me away.

>>793042
Ridiculous promises are usually the first sign of a scam/failure.

Also, I personally wouldn't trust /anyone/ on Kickstarter who is building/producing a proprietary product.

I have a Zen Toolworks 12x12 CNC machine that I want to make a remove able 3D head for. Specifically I want to make a Bowden design to reduce the amount of cantilever-related (guess)work I will have to do.

Are the $15-20 hot ends on eBay any good? It seems silly to pay $50 or more for a metal nozzle and heating block I can make myself as was done in things like the Glow Plug extruder.

>>793059
shit show at that cheap, either get a clone j head (why would you now) or get the e3d v6lite

>>793067
Has anyone here made their own hot ends?

>>793059
It was common 2-3 years back for people to make their own hotends
But nowadays hotends have gotten so good, I dont see many people even bothering anymore.

The clone hotends on ebay are really hit and miss, you may end up with a good one who knows.

V6lite is pretty much a gamechanger for high quality cheap hotends.

>>793071
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-printer-extruder-all-Metal-J-head-hotend-aluminium-assembled-E3D-V6-Based-/261814966598?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3cf5635946
This is one of those I presume?

>>793072
Thats a chinese E3D V6 clone, that is an all metal hotend.

This is the V6 Lite from their North America retailer.
http://www.filastruder.com/products/lite6

Ill shill for E3D all day long, I fucking love my V6

>>793073
So what's the difference between bowden and direct? All this terminology is killing me

>>793073
your not alone, if they said I could get a free hotend from them for giving them my girlfriend, there would be no pause in chucking her stuff out the door and taking that new hotend

>>793075
Never mind I just looked it up.
http://start3dprinting.com/2013/07/what-is-a-bowden-extruder/
Bowden extruder it is then

>>793075
It just means it has a clip to hold a long PTFE tube into the hotend, vs just a hole for your filament liner.

>>793075
A bowden, has a piece of tubing that goes from the motor that feeds the filament to the hot end. The motor that feeds and retracts is somewhere else, to make the print head lighter. Bowden is becoming more popular these days, due to the ease of use.

Direct has the motor that does the feeding and retraction right above the hotend, which adds weight the to print head/ print carriage. Very popular still and will always will be.

Both have advantages and drawbacks. But basically:
Bowden
+Speed
+easy of use
+hardly any jams/ grinding the filament to shit and back
-printing flexible filaments is a pain in the ass
-little bit more if you don't have the bowden stuff already

Direct:
+flexible filaments are easy
+easy to see if the extruder is the issue
+(some styles of direct are as fast as bowdens)
-speed
-weight
-heat from the hotend and the motor can warp your print head mounts

>>793078
Buy the "bowden" hotend.
Both hotends are going to be equal, youll just get the bowden clip included if you want to use it.

If you want to go to a direct extruder, just pop the clip off.

Not sure why they worded it that way, in the regular V6 they called it "Universal" where you just buy the "bowden hardware" if you wanted it.

>>793082
Do these guys even ask for shipping costs? I tried buying it but it just says i have to pay for the product. And i'm wondering if shipping from north america to europe is free lol
experience taught me it's fuckexpensive

>>793084
Are you in europe?
Jesus, im up way past my bedtime

These dudes make the hotends in england.
I just assumed you were in the USA.

http://e3d-online.com/

>>793084
if you are in EU land buy from e3d directly
NA buy from filastruder.
That is if you are getting an e3d

>>793085
>Jesus, im up way past my bedtime
Just skip sleeping today :^)
Ordered the hotend on account of your shilling
Now to find me a rambo board that doesn't cost me an arm

>>793092
best bet is ebay/ amazon eu/ any arduino resellers

>>792992
>>792980
>>792926
oh gawd. as an owner of two 3d printers, one being a self made rostock delta clone i can tell... from the video i see so many thing totally wrong or missleading... i don't even want to list them.

>>792994
huehue there is this one patent... held by stratasys ... what was it about... oh right... closed heat chambers. good luck fighting that patent ... or paying up like others do.

>>793016
don't worry about them, the part that jams is usually the driving gear/mechanics

>>793019
my jhead has a metal and then a ceramic piece above, no cooling fins no shit. works awesome. the only difference: it is double the height. but that is no problem.


>>793059
you have a cnc machine and want to 3d print? do NOT go with a bowden design. go direct drive with a fishbone gear. The bowden will be shittier quality and more problems but will give you a lighter print head... your machine is strong enough to go with a high quality direct drive printer
you pic unrelated... that is NOT a bowden

>>793080
>+easy of use
>+hardly any jams/ grinding the filament to shit and back
nope sorry. this is a myth.
>-heat from the hotend and the motor can warp your print head mounts
The fuck? Are you people still using PLA for heat critical parts? are you retards? PLA is pretty much molten at 50°C

>>793107
must have gotten some shit tier bowden setup then.

>>793124
yeah hard shit.

Airtripper with a bowden extruder. The alternatives are uncountable... wait actually they are.... there is no alternative

Hey guys I'm
>>791764
don't want to redirect attention to the subject you're going on about, but even as a noob, it just seems too good to be true for a 3D printer.

Tiko is trying to be like apple, it offers an easy to use product for the consumer that knows jack shit about anything and its the low price tag that hooked these people in, if it was $300 it would still be selling as well because of the nature of the product (simple, basic af, etc. and in the videos, advertising and emphasizing points for the common faggot as opposed to tech specs for the 3D printing vets like those on /diy/)

Anyway, I need a little help with my design.
I make smoking accessories and I came across a problem on one of my designs, a measurement for a 14mm female bowl size. Being new to this, I don't know the exact measurement of a 14mm female, as I know its not just 14mm but something like 14.8mm and its necessary because it has to receive 14mm male bowls. I'll be looking for info on this in the meantime. Thanks to anyone in advance.

First printer is looking to bea Rostock Max v2, I'm used to building rigs to make money so I'm sure I can figure it out by myself, probably gonna be a 30 hour build as its my first printer and around 10 calibrating.

>>793135
if your still using the j head that it isn't legit there's your issue, the clones are piles of shit.

Problem here for first print.

Everything seems fine, but when I load an stl file in pronterface and upload the work for printing the printer just moves but it doesnt extrude anything, the motor just don't move but the extruder motor moves manually when I told him... whay am I doing wrong /diy/?

>>793228
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,106464
this might help

>>793228
Run the stl through cura first

>>793172
except it is a legit print head made by one of the original jhead reprap guys. fuck you and your fanboism

>>793261
keep being the black sheep, that things anything that isn't a direct drive j head is crap.
keep believing that bowdens are bad

>>793107
It's a shame that Stratasys holds that patent. Their execution of it is shit, and their print quality is nowhere near reasonable for the price of their machines. I used a Stratasys Mojo throughout high school, and was never satisfied with it. Fast forward to now, and I'm getting better print quality out of a $350 printer that I assembled in an afternoon.

>>793168
Maybe try 16mm and use a rubber grommet to shim the receiver? The grommet will also keep things nice and airtight, to get more of that green goodness into your lungs.

>>793263
Not that guy, but bowdens can be a pain to calibrate.
I quit using one recently because geared extruders are real reliable.

>going to start tripfagging for posterity

Has anyone here tried using removable support filament like PVA in a PLA print? Would it be worth it to upgrade to dual extruders to print a separate support?

>someone managed to wedge their ABS filament into our hackerspace printer so good we had to disassemble the entire hotend

DIYTechShop has closed up shop.

I have an I3X and its hardware is fine. It was a sub 500$ Prusa I3 kit over 2 years ago (iirc, the first kit at the price point).

They had fucking garbage customer service, and they never sent out full kits. Youd get your kit in 3-4 shipments weeks apart.

I guess the folgertechs and other acrylic kits for 150$ less killed the business.

>>793250

I don't know, I installed cura and uploaded a calibration cube but when I hit print, the printer doesn't do anything(well the bed starts heatiing but not the extruder and thats all it does)

>>793249

I also got skeinforge but the UI was complicated, I think I got it into uploading the calibration cube but I can't find a way to tell it to print.

>>793275
How can you switch filament type safely?

>>793228
Check
-your cables
-CURA or SLic3r settings
-Steps from the Marlin? firmware

>>793228
And Are you sure that you have exported the g-code from the slicer software of your choice and uploaded that into pronterface?

>>793297

>>793290
>I don't know, I installed cura and uploaded a calibration cube but when I hit print, the printer doesn't do anything

You put in all your setting for your printer in the left hand side of Cura (most importantly your filament size under Basic, and Nozzle size under Advanced, then just pick basic settings)

When everything is correct, you go under File under the top left hand of Cura, go down the drop box and press "save Gcode"

You then upload that Gcode you saved into Pronterface.

>>793297
>>793300

I experimented a little between comments, and first heated the bed and the extruder, then I went to cura and pulsed print.

At first it did what I expected... nothing,but suddenly after a few seconds it started homing for al axis and printing, everything was fine but in the same way I recieved good news I got the bad ones.

The extruder suddenly started making "weird" noises and then the filament stopped flowing, I had to turn the extruder wheel manually while the motor did those noises until it definely said "Im dead" and the filament stopped flowing wether the wheel moved or not.

Also, my calibration cube had a circle in it that wasn't regular, some parts where more smaller other bigger, variating the overall radious... and I certainly don't have no idea about why.

In other news, the base of the cube was fine and perfect, exact numbers everywere in every mesure I did.

>>793304

Im this guy, just wanted to give a thanks reply.

>>793300

Now it also works without cura, thanks for the help

>>793304
>had to turn the extruder wheel manually while the motor did those noises until it definely said "Im dead" and the filament stopped flowing wether the wheel moved or not.

What is your plastic, and what temps are you burning it at?

>>793308
>while the motor did those noises
no idea about 3d printers yet but ANY motor that makes vibrating sounds is bad news. it might be a faulty motor driver.

>>793304
Care to post a pic of your calibration cube. Usually it is good to use a bit too high temps at the beginning. If you are using PLA wipe the first 2 cm with olive oil and run it through your extruder before printing.

>>793309
Well its not a good sound, but these steppers can make horrible noises when missing steps if the plastic jams from being too cold.
Especially if stepstick isnt putting out enough power to just grind the filament, and then he finally got the filament to grind by moving the wheel with his hand

>>793311

Pic is my abortion, from here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:170922/#files

The first part is when it started and the extruder worked fine, but then it started making noises and the filamment stopped flowing so It skipped layers, when I took the thing off the bed that part was so weak that came off easily.

>>793308

PLA on 185Cº in a bed at 60Cº

>>793316
Pull the filament out of your extruder,
Cut the old stuff and reseat it.

Then retry the print at 200c

>>793316
Set temp to 195
run
examine
back to previous setting 185 or 190
Set print speed to 0.5 or 0.2
run
examine
post pics

I'm going to sleep, but I will look them at the morning.

>>793319
To pull the filament, set your extruder to 200c in pronterfacer and then itll come out.

>>788941
For a rostock printer the link from the wiki giving the list of materials says to get a "MK7 drive gear" from makerbot.

I live in the UK and they don't sell that part on the UK site or deliver it here. What should I do?

I can't even access the site to get any information on the gear.

>>793331
Buy an MK8 gear from Ebay

>>793320

There is almost no need for pics, the extruder moves but the filaments never flows out now Im doing >>793319 and changing the PLA filament.

Can someone help me with why my printer seems to be compressing the Y axis. No idea if i should be loosening or tightening the belts (solidoodle 2)

>>793266
Smart, thanks, I gotta start thinking like this, thanks.

Thanks to DIY for getting me into something productive and fun.

>>793337
seems as though the y axis isnt moving as far as it thinks, not sure if i'd fix it in software or hardware though

>>793337
Well, belts shouldnt be too tight that they bind or too loose that they slip teeth

Id just start from scratch and adjust both sides gears and belts making sure its decently straight, then making them somewhere in the middle of tension.

>>793342
I thought Y esteps too at first. No idea how solidoodle software works though.

>>793344
the steps should be something you set in the firmware rather than the slicer

>>793344
>>793347
i just replaced the stock carriages so its gotta be hardware. Shoulda just left the originals

>>793319
>>793322


Your idea worked, I reinserted the fillament and everything went perfectly and smooth, also mention for >>793320 for the idea of reducing speed.

Thanks /diy/ now I have a perfectly functional 3D printer.

Note: Just for curiosity, why reinserting the fillament worked? Isn't the plastic liquid at the hottend and isn't really supossed to matter wether its new or "old" the filament inside?

>>793365
Im going to go out on a limb here.
Look at the stuff you pulled out, did you grind a big groove into it where the extruder was trying to push it?

185 is on the low side for a lot of PLA, and if you have a low quality thermistor, melting plastic too fast cools it down faster than the thermistor can tell it to heat up again. If the nozzle dropped too low it would have jammed bad, and then you trying to force it through by manually turning the extruder, you would have ground the filament to where even if your nozzle was hot enough to push through there is nothing left for the extruder to grip and push it.

That was my thinking at least.

>>793371

>>793298
kjeh kjeh

>>793291
Switching filament is easy. It's just that this fucking guy managed to get it to expand IN THE HOTEND so that it couldn't be removed easily.

>>793340
No need to thank me, all it takes is shitting a few things together to stir up those creative juices.

If you ever need to stretch your brain muscle, try one of these things:

>Use two ink pens and a sheet of paper to move an egg six feet

>Build the tallest structure you can out of spaghetti noodles, string, and chewing gum

>Build a structure out of hot glue and popsicle sticks to hold as many full soda cans as possible

>Stack nearby objects, starting with the smallest one and working your way up to the biggest

>>793423
can't you just heat it up?

>>793522
yeah usually you just heat it up remove, put different filament into the hotend and use your hand to manually push the old remains out, then you change the temperature to the new filemanets melting point and push a bit further before reappling the pressure system for your filament drive

>>793568
then what's the problem?

>>793522
>>793577
The blob was situated just above the hotend and I assume in the hotend itself too. We tried heating it up and pulling it out/pushing it through but didn't work at all.

Bear in mind the printer is calibrated to use the same settings for PLA and ABS, so maybe he tried printing on the PLA setting instead of ABS, I dunno.

>>788941

Guise! I have a prusa i3 and I would like to get a new set of pieces for it, like a box forma the arduino por a stand forma the filament, what would you recommend? For example my belt for the Y axis is too short, is there any new part I can get that optimices the belt use?

>>793654
>For example my belt for the Y axis is too short, is there any new part I can get that optimices the belt use?

Is your printer functioning and you are asking for models to print?
Every Prusa i3 is different so you have to use ones that are specific to your printer.

If your Y axis idler uses 608 bearings, I highly suggest changing to two 624z bearings. They are much close to the size of a GT2 pulley.
Put them in an adjustable idler, and you can gain length on your Y axis belt.

>>793844

I've got the prusa from a kit long ago and some parts might have improvements.

For example, I have this:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:333127

And I was wondering if there is a better piece that does the same job based on someones experience here or such improvements for a prusa i3

>>793859
I personally changed my X carriage plate out to one with a 30mm mount in the middle of it.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:184933
I run some random gregs/wade that I modified to have my E3Ds PTFE tube go through.

I dont see anything wrong with that plate though, its not like you are going to get better performance or anything.

This is the last upgrade that I did, its awesome and makes it super easy to tension the X plate.
It also uses 624z bearings, my old one used 608. 608 bearings are NOT ok idlers for GT2 belts, two 624z are so much better its not funny.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:247992

anyone had any luck with these cheap chinese printers?

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271719961382?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

i know from other hobbies, if you cheap out you will end up spending more, but just wondering what they are like

>>793925
The hot end will be trash, the steppers will be of low quality, acrylic is not desirable for longevity in a frame, im not sure exactly what that control board is but im not holding my breath on it being decent, NO HEATED BED.

On the other hand though, the i3 design is very stout.
I have no doubts that it will print, and if you put a lot of time into calibrating it that it will print stuff decently.
A lot of people have good luck with FolgerTechs I3s.

Its one of those things were once you hit its limit, youll want to upgrade hardware. But the crappy frame and stuff make it not really worthy of a lot of upgrades. You may have been better off buying decent steppers/electronics/metal frame in the first place.

>>793981
Looks to me that it does have a heated bed
Also looks just like a cheap RamBo knockoff

>>793925
>>793981

Weird question, kind of related: In setups with two Z-axis screws, why aren't the two connected in a way that prevents misalignment, e.g., via belt?

>>794028
not on my i3. i just put a piece of tape on the of the screw rods so i have a visual indication if they become out of sync. nothing so far

>>794029
Are there any drawbacks to connecting the two, though?

>Mentoring FIRST Robotics team
>Only mentor with experience de-shitting reprap printers
>Dumb shit kids play with Z-axis screws
>"Waah, my prints are fucking up can you align print bed please"

>>794033
not that i can think of, but if were to do that, then i'd just rather have one Z motor. being a screw drive, torque sure isn't a problem. just have an equal distribution of force to each screw, but then you're just doing a printer redesign

>>794035
That's true. I don't want to dig into a Taz 4 that was bought on the school's dime, so the tape flags seem like the best short-term solution.

>>794028
I know that its almost impossible to get perfectly straight threaded rod, and that threaded rods that hold up the carriage from the bottom bulge and can bend slightly (like an I3 vs an I2 that had the steppers on top where gravity helped the rods stay straight)

With the nature of the rods being not perfectly straight, ive read many times that retainers like pic related can cause serious banding and introduce binding. Heard the same about using those metal coupler to attach threaded rod to the steppers too.

Id venture to guess that its just not worth the time and extra parts for something that could be detrimental to print quality.

>>788941

Hey /diy/ a little hand overhere.

My prusa i3, can't use all the heatbed, the Y axis can only reach to a certain point in the superior part and I think Im losing maybe 5-7 cm of bed, is this normal. The Y-belt just can't put the extruder in that zone of the heatbed and seems more like a design flaw than something I did wrong but I still need to ask.

Star Spawn of Cthulhu Ministers to the Faithful at the Altar of Creation

>>794099
post pics, cause i don't have the problem

>>794136

Ok, I post 2 pics.

In pic, all the zone thats left from the extruder its impossible to use.

In next pic, I will post reason, and thats because I can't put the enstop further from the Yaxis.

>>794140

Pìc is the endstop, at the total limit of the printer.

>>794141
>>794140

Forget it, moved the endstop down and now touchs the bearing instead of the heatbed supprot... I feel really stupid, like Im assamed to be human and decrease the overall IQ of humanity with my stupidness, I feel so much embarrasment that I should give back my brain to god and say "I don't deserve it, I can't use it right".

>>794146
huh, my Y endstop is on the front of my printer instead of a back with a screw in the bed to hit it.

I'll hopefully be building a Rostock MAX v2 from a kit over the summer, any tips you guys can give me for building it?

>>794152
use the male/female connectors for the hot end stuff
you won't get the rtv anywhere near as pretty as the picture they show
make sure your towers are level and plum
take your time calibrating each tower
start with PLA
and when you are ready for ABS look into building something to seal up your build area from drafts and what not
most the most important thing of all, take your time and have fun

>>794213
>rtv
what?

>>794146
When I first built mine, I put the y axis backwards. Motor, endstop, threaded rod everything.

Everything I was printing was inverted, had to completely rebuild it, sucked hard

>>794238
Couldn't you just switch polarity on the motor?
the fuck man

>>794214
basically a high temp silicone you use for parts of assembling the hotend. It's a goey mess

>>794239
he could've fixed it in the firmware. it's like one of the default defines used to configure it

>>794239
Yeah you can, and I did for a short while but even the frame was aligned incorrectly.

I was running into the same problem of a sizeable amount of my heat bed was being physically not able to be used (even with a rigged endstop to allow max movement on the smooth rods.

Its an I3X from the late diytechshop, so it has vertical bars for rigidity, so it was a little more complicated to align the threaded frame correctly (especially since there were NO instructions from them at all)

>>794213
Thanks bud, appreciate all the tips

I need some help with my printer, pic are the results of an entire morning and afternoon of trying to print a cylinder(because at least the printer does the cubes alright but has problems with circles).

I have wasted 1 meter of 3 mm PLA filament on a prusa i3, using cura and pronterface trying to make those and experimented with several parameters from cura but I had no luck trying to make those cylinders straight.

So I ask tha anons here, If I gave you what you see in pic? What would you think about it? Where do you think the error would be in the printer?

Also, I had a lot of abortions, mostly because the filament instead of falling down to the mirror, sticked around the hotend or suddenly, while the piece was being made, the piece sticks to the hotend without warning.

What I already did was experiment with several temperatures from bed to extruder, changed the flow magnitude in cura and the height of the Z-axis(to the point in which the PLA felft and had time to deformate in the way down)

>>794589
I would assume that your X and Y-axis belts need to be tensioned, and/or the voltage to your stepper motors adjusted in order to prevent skipped steps and belt slippage/walking/slack issues.

>>794635

Well, the voltage is 0,20 for XY and 0,40 for both Zs and 0,35 for extruder... but if I change voltage I have to measure everything again and adjust the steps in the firmware right?

>>794640

Fortunately, no. Because of the way stepper motors work, increased voltage translates to increased holding torque, which seems like the cause of the issue with your prints. The steppers could be continuing to move when they are supposed to stop/not moving when they're supposed to, which leads to missed steps. Try to adjust the voltage on your X and Y-axes just a bit and see if your prints improve.

>>794645

Well, thanks I will try that.

>>794654
Be sure to post more pictures after you've tried making those changes. If they don't work, there are other things to try, but stepper voltage and belt tension are the most common problems.

Have fun and happy printing!

>>794645
>increased voltage translates to increased holding torque

Increased voltage translates into increased torque at speed, not holding torque. Holding torque is determined by your current limit.

>>794640

I guarantee you aren't running anything at 0.2V. I assume you mean amps?

Either way, given the symmetry of the errors and lack of jaggyness to it, I'm going to guess that you have something loose where it shouldn't be, probably, as previously mentioned, the belts.

You can usually hear missed steps, especially the number that would be required to get that far off.

>>794672
I didn't even realize I'd typed that until you called me out on it. Shit.

>>794589
I agree with the belt tension/missed steps

Also, make sure your X and Y carriages rods are very straight, and there is no binding at all when your motors are off. Maybe even binding on your belts from misalignment when it gets to a certain area.

>>794589
it also looks like you are over extruding -- either adjust your steps per mm in firmware or filament diameter in slicer software

>>794589
>>sticked around the hotend or suddenly, while the piece was being made, the piece sticks to the hotend without warning.

I had this problem when I first started. You either need to obsessively clean the bed with acetone/rubbing alcohol or use a binder. The favorite around here is Uhu/Elmer's Purple glue sticks as it works very well with both PLA and ABS. If you don't have any on hand, diluted school glue works well with PLA.

>>794589
>>794903
Also make sure your z axis is properly calibrated and your need level. Your hotend should have a paper's width between it and the bed when they are cold. The paper should have drag but not enough to fold it.

>>794589
>>794903
Also make sure your z axis is properly calibrated and your bed is level. Your hotend should have a paper's width between it and the bed when they are cold. The paper should have drag but not enough to fold it.

>>791090
>>791096
>>791101
>>791112
So I now have a Ramps and a Mega 2560 board, got the stepsticks too.

This is a stupid question, but what do I do with the stepsticks?

>>795035
I think a RAMPS includes a mega2560 chip man
The sticks are to control stepper motors, if that's what you mean with sticks.

>>795036
All the stuff I bought (besides a LCD screen) is listed here:

>>791112

>>795037
Never mind.
With that you're able to control stepper motors basically. Nothing more.
You plug them in the RAMPS board. It has 5 slots specifically for that purpose. Just don't fuck up the orientation. Check documentation.

>>795036
>I think a RAMPS includes a mega2560 chip man
maybe you mistook RAMPS for RAMBo.
RAMPS stands for Reprap Ardiuno Mega Pololu Shield.
Shields are designed to be put onto the arduino board. In some cases shields contain a microcontroller too, but not in this case.

>>795040
>Shields are designed to be put onto the arduino board. In some cases shields contain a microcontroller too, but not in this case.
Don't you dare challenge my "arduino" knowledge

>>795049
I'm sorry

>>794903
>>794831
>>794727
>>794672

Did what you said guys, I only had to tightend the Yaxis belt, and now I had homogeneous circles, so Thanks!

So now I decided to print a new set of pieces for the printer, just in case some broke. Just to have spare parts even if they're in PLA its better than having a 500g paperweight.

But I couldnt finish the pieces, for the first one I left the printer for an hour and when I came back I found it with those extrange droplets of plastic, they were cold so I could remove them easily but it was extrange.

After that, the filament broke(I think that a spool support for the printer might not be so secondary as I first thought) and I didn't saw that so the extruder keeped doing layers without extruding and I had to restart.

But when I restarted happened something weird. The arduino overheated so much that the disipators became untouchable. And everything worked except for the bed, which I had to start preheating in steps(heat until 35Cº wait, for arduino to cool down and repeat unitl 45Cº, then wait for arduino again and get the 50Cº) but once the heatbed reached target temperature the problem just disapeared and the disipators became touchable.

And the other extrange things is that I have layers out of place, specially the first that seemed to be moved in the Y axis which I already tightened.

Thanks for the help provided guys.

>>795167
Sounds like you have a few problems - I suspect what happened is that your filament feed system jammed (i.e. your filament tangled at the spool), causing excess tension. This may be why your layers are offset (either that or your drivers aren't tuned in), and the blobby bits (it was trying to extrude against tension and failed intermittently). As for everything getting hot with the heated bed on, check all the wires and tighten the connections feeding power to the bed. I had a similar issue a while back where a loose connection at the 11A ramps connector (and a poor soldering job on my part on the bed) melted the power connector.

You're getting there .... Also, don't leave it unattended until you're 100% confident in it, IMHO. There are legitimate fire safety issues with any reprap, especially during early stage testing.

>>795035
You gangbang them all together

Pop the Ramps onto the Mega (it only fits one way) and then read the top of your Ramps board.

Put a stepstick for X - Y - Z - and E0 into the ramps headers. MAKE SURE YOU PUT THEM IN THE RIGHT ORIENTATION.
Make sure you are looking at the right documentation for your type of stepstick because different models are different orientations. Youll burn a lot of shit up if you do it wrong.

>>795242
Also, E0 and E1 stand for the extruders, so if you are plan on running a dual hotend setup youll need to put a stepstick on E1 to control your second extruder. If not you can leave it open.

>>795167
Make sure your heated bed wires and power supply wires are a thick enough gauge to push all that power at once.
I would put a fan blowing onto your electronics if its overheating.

>>795242
Also, dont forget to install your jumpers on the Ramps board if they werent installed already

Opinions on this printer?
http://roboze.com

I personally love its helical gear mechanism

>>795242
Circuitry isn't my thing, I know bare basics but when it comes to diagrams in documentation I have no idea what I am even looking at half the time.

It's an A4988 Stepstick, the documentations here: https://www.pololu.com/product/1182

Should I arrange them in the orientation of the pic you posted? Or should it be the other way around?

I know where to place them on the board.

>>795254
A stupid question, but jumpers don't have a specific orientation, right? I am 99% sure they do not but I've never installed them before.

>>795269
A4988s are 1/16 stepper drivers, so you want all 3 jumpers installed like this. No orientation, they just short 2 pins.

And yes, if they are A4988, the tuning pot on the driver should be pointing away from the power connectors just like that other picture.

>>795266
Looks interesting
Its mighty expensive though.

>>795273
cheers

>>795273
The stepper boards differ in size slightly, so I've got the X stepper in but the Y board pushes up against it, this means the pins don't fully go in.

The pins are at max about 0.5mm from being in fully. I'm worried about pushing too hard on the stepper that it might break it, but do the pins need to be 100% all the way in?

>>795317
I had the same exact issue with my a4988s
I just filed down the sides of the boards till they fit all the way. You wont hurt anything because it shouldnt take much sanding/filing to get them to fit.

My DRV8825s were made better and fit the first time.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-hot-sale-DIY-kit-reprap-mendel-prusa-i3-with-Oxidation-treated-Aluminium-board-high/32245161307.html

what's wrong with it. I'm thinking bad electronics.

>>795364
Probably the same thing with all of the chinese kits.
Complete trash hotend, questionable steppers and a kinda crappy Melzi board.

Frame looks much better than the acrylic ones, but who knows. If you are spending 500$ you could look into those P3Steel kits from spain.

I want to upgrade my frame to a PS3Steel eventually.

So, I just watched the kevlar line on my Printrbot shred itself apart right in front of my eyes. Any suggestions for replacement string until I can order more spectra line and/or stuff for a GT2 belt conversion?

>>795460
para cord maybe

>>795472
Paracord doesnt seem like it would work very well.

>>795460
The only thing I could think of is just buying braided fishing line at walmart or something.

The belt conversion isnt a bad idea.

>>795472
>>795475

Just spliced the line to the best of my ability

>It wasn't kevlar
>It was nylon

Splicing the line was a fucking stupid idea.
>Printer vomits line out of the sides as soon as the print starts

I have most of the parts for a belt setup, and am ordering them this week. Gonna hit up an actual sporting goods store for braided line in the meantime.

>>788941
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiPQpiE4_qY&index=3&list=LLrSv4CXSfNzbF51syPhpPmw

Fuck Plastic, say hello to Carbon printing!

>>795546
It's utterly useless. The printer is unable to wave the carbon fibers. The biggest strenght problem on printed parts is the layer adhesion an that doesn't get fixed at all.

>>795317
apply pressure, play a bit with direction get them fully in or risk bad contacts.
you can't really break much there.

Also try playing with other slots for your big stepper drivers if you really can't get them in. Sometimes it's like a puzzle

Why does everyone go with expensive aluminum frames when you can make a box frame Prusa? From my experience it is sturdier and cheaper. Do people online have a strange aversion to woodworking or something? Or does warping become a larger problem later on?

What kind of shield would I need for an Arduino Uno if I wanted to make a single motor SLA printer? I am looking at all this stuff on the LittleRP website and Instructables.

As a cnc machinist i'm looking into buying a 3d printer. Any reccomendations for higher accuracy prints?

Also can someone expain why the extruder is moved by belts? Why not use acme or a ballscrew? Belts cant be that much cheaper

>>795252
>>795171


Welp. I did it, I fried the arduino.

I tried to solve the problem using a fan, but I couldn't fin one so I remembered that I had heatsinks and maybe they would fit in the disipators and help with the heat.

Stupid of me, the heatsink touched the transistors next to the disipators and the next moment the printer disconnected from the computer.

Now, the shield don't have any led active, but at least the arduino still have his green led on and a pretty weak one in orange in the arduino(not the ramps). The funny thing is that when I touch bot transistors with my hand the red led that usually meant that the extruder is heating ,activates but is still very weak.

If Im right, all the symtops correspond to those 3 components in pic, right? Do I have to buy another RAMPs or can still be saved?

Note: Also a funny smell is coming from the shield when I connect it, and Im sure its not PLA.

>>795662
with mircostepping motors, i think it becomes more a speed thing than an accuracy thing.

also I think thermal expansion from the plastic becomes more a concern than the printer accuracy limitations. For me, my printer appears to be dead on. i made a 0.5" cube with a .25" hole in it to test. the out side of the cube is dead on when i check with calipers, but the .25" hole through it is .005" undersized. I got this printing with cura so the hardware itself is capable, it just takes tweaks to the slicer software.

>>795664
innuo, my i3v never gave me all those problems you're having. A ramps board might be fixable if you have any experience with circuitry, but i would imagine that the ardunio board would still be detected by the computer if that was still any good.

>>795677

The question is, how do I prove that the transistors broke and how do I know that everything else is fine?

>>795681
replace them. see if it works. if not it's something else.

>>795664
You should pull the Ramps off of the Arduino and see if you can run the Arduino correctly by itself. You may have blown out both of them.

I shorted out my Ramps through the endstops, and my Ramps was perfect while I had blown out something in my 2560. I replaced just the Arduino and have been running it ever since.

Also if you arent worried about waiting a while here is a decent deal for electronics.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-Mega-2560-R3-1pcs-RAMPS-1-4-Controller-5pcs-A4988-Stepper-Driver-Module-1pcs-2004/1802988898.html

I bought one to have a secondary laying around, its so fucking cheap.

>>795654
None of the kits really come with wood
If I had access to a nice laser cutter, I would probably just use metal anyways because it looks better and feels like its more of a premium I guess?

I have heard some people talk about warping on say MDF in bad climates, but I doubt its a problem. Look at how much everyone loves the Mendel90

The P3Steel fames are sturdy as fuck, but hard to get in the USA unless you cut your own.

Potential buyfag here. I'm looking for a larger printer with decently high resolution, at least 25 cm x 25 x 35. None of the comparison websites I've seen let me sort by build size so even though I've browsed dozens of printers I'm having a tough time finding the best one to fit my needs.

I have some basic electronics and robotics assembly experience so I'm not afraid to get a kit/solder stuff if it's my best option. I'm just not sure if I'm skilled enough to build one from scratch.

So /3dpg/, any suggestions?

>>795927

Whoops, meant to say build area, not resolution. A high resolution would be nice.

I also forgot to mention it needs to have a heated bed/be up-gradable to a heated bed since I'm going to use ABS.

>>795927
The Lulzbot Taz 5 was the first printer that came to mind, but its build envelope is 298mm x 275mm x 250mm.

I know that Ultimaker is coming out with a bigger version of their printer too.

The only big kit that came to mind was from a company who just went out of business.

>>795927
>>795931
I was going to grab the link to the Lulzbot Taz 5, then >>795936 posted

I'd go with the TAZ, and maybe try to upgrade the build height if you really need to.

>>795927
Def the lulzbot, fantastic printer, great build volume, great support, taz 5 already has a full metal hotend so can print exotics right out of the box, and they are working on printable/ buyable upgrades like built in wipe area and auto leveling features that the mini has.

can also look at gigabot but they are a fuck ton of money

>>796027
and by fuck ton the kit is just shy of 6k, prebuilt around 8k, xl 10k
but I know they are reliable, been around awhile, and there are a few people out there with them.

So I'm a huge fucking retard and bought a square heatbed for a rostock build
is it useable or should I sell it?

>>796091
If you are building a rostock that is big enough to use it, I dont see why not.
The smaller Kossels and stuff physically cant fit a standard square heat bed.

>>795927
Don't buy, DIY. Seriously, if you're really interested in learning, buy the cheapest kit you can find, deal with the endless issues and actually learn how they work, then build your own. My 2c.

>>795846

I did and the computer detected the arduino, but when I put again the RAMPs it simply didn't work.

Now Im trying to take out the transistors, but seems like my soldiering iron can't apply enought heat to the lead under the MOSFETs, and I have been trying hard to melt it.

>>796103

If you do it DIY be sure to have the balls to do it and put some effort into it, I can assure you that enthusiast buying can give you a frozen project for 3 years instead of a good experience.

>>795927
would this help ? www.productchart.com/3d_printers/

>>796132
damnit, that looks awesome but it doesn't include kits it looks like, atleast the i3v kit that i got which is $540, the same price as a pintrbot

whoever starts the next thread, be sure to include that

>>796138
link to your kit?

>>796140
http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/prusa-8-i3v-kit-v-slot-extrusion.html/

it's just like any other i3 but different bearings and extruded aluminum for its support

as far as i know, it's the best kit all around.
$540
heated bed
8"x8"x8" volume
your choice of nozzle
the only soldering i needed was to put the wires on the endstops
all that's needed extra is a sheet of glass for the printbed and a power supply(it recommends a 12v 30a but i've had no problems with a old 300watt atx psu that's rated at a max 15a output on the 12v rail)

So I've just assembled the e3d lite hot-end but i'm left wondering if I should use thermal paste to improve the heat transfer between parts.

>>795849
That makes sense. I personally just used a tablesaw to make my kit, but I am sure that people with laser cutters would go for a metal frame.

>>796130
Agreed, it's not for the faint of heart (my two homebuilt systems, while amazing now that (most of) the bugs are worked out, were not exactly a walk in the park), but that's the best way to learn IMO. This is DIY after all; the challenge is half the fun.

>>796162
>Make my frame

To do or not to do

>>796257
Keep in mind you still need linear rod (drill and threaded), bearings, stepper motors, electronics, a heated bed, and a glass plate (or equivalent) as a build surface (and maybe some other stuff I'm forgetting). That being said ... DO EEET.

>>796298
I have a rambo and a hotend, and now framesheets + printed parts
i'm probably gonna need some help picking out bearings, motors and linear rods.

>>796253
Making the whole printer out of easily acquired stuff is the point of reprap right?

We should be making a new thread soon(~2 days?)

>>796161
no need for thermal paste with real e3d -- the way it clamps gives excellent contact.

also thermal paste turns liquid at these temperatures.

>>796344
>the way it clamps gives excellent contact.
I'm using the lite and and i can see the other side when it's clamped. So no it's not a good fit.

>>796300
There's a BOM listed for the Mendelmax 2 here: http://reprap.org/wiki/MendelMax_2

Since you have a hotend and a rambo, you'll need stuff like linear rod (drill rod, ideally bought pre-cut; shit's hard to cut), some linear bearings or bushings, some threaded rods for the z-axis (I like acme leadscrews from Misumi, but you might have to mod the printed parts; better to start with whatever is in the BOM), couplings for the z-axis, timing belt and gears, a bed, some springs, a power supply, etc.. There's a company called Robotdigg that I've had good luck with when it comes to steppers (and other vitamins); the ordering is a little strange but they normally courier stuff, which is better than waiting for parts by slow boat from China. I'm excited for you - I think the Mendelmax is a solid design. One thing that does stick out for me in the design that I'm not familiar with is the linear rail and slides on the x- and y-axes; I'm not sure where to get those..

>>796343
What should we put in the OP of the new thread?
What else do we have to add to the copypasta?

>>796349
whatevs -- add an additional fire hazard to the hot end. flash point of most grease is around 300C doesn't take much miscalibration to go from a 220C printing temp to the auto-ignition point of grease. the plastic doesn't get to that point until 450C or so

>>796432
atm,
>>796132

>>796343
I think this thread might die today when drunkfags start to make threads.

>>796482
>>796432
I collect links like a hoarder, would any of these help?
blog/news sites?
3ders.org
3dhubs.com
should thingiverse be on there?
or stlfinder?
list of cads?

how about dildo-generator.com
cause it's hillarious

if I was sorcing my own frame locally for a i3 what file should I use?

>>796676
Look at Josef's github
Alternatively make a box frame with wood or metal pieces as per the instructions on the RepRap wiki

>>796675
yes

and from there we'll work on refining lists/crash course education on things such as extruders, plastic suppilers, maybe we can keep track of when slicers updates, whatever

I want a list of /diy/ recommended parts

I think it was agreed http://www.filastruder.com/
has a good extruder
but what about moters and boards and everything else
I'm thinking of picking up these motors
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Germany-Ship-Free-10-PCS-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-42BYGHW804-with-4800g-cm-1-2A/1548459341.html

I think that Yeggi should be in the OP as it combines results from all the big file databases

>>796744
Don't buy an extruder kit.

You can make one of these for the fraction of the price all from using recycled materials. It'll just take a bit longer if you don't know the right places to look.

>>796780
got a tutorial ? or just riprap?

>>796783
This guy has some videos of him showing his own recycled extruder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFxUgaUOX6M&list=PLsiIKXpZfLKIEMifKWP5CMRSv2mvcsrJL

I'm currently in the process of building a printer, but straight after that I'll build an extruder.

For the base, you can get pallets. Either find some cheap ones or steal some.

Auger bits can be bought cheap at secondhand. Some cleaning up will need to be done most likely.

Motors can be taken from other electronics. I'll need to think more on this, but I might take one out a blender, depends if it's powerful enough.

Hair dryers for heating elements.

It's mainly about thinking ("I need this item. What other things use that item"). Not many guides are needed.