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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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652462 No.652462 [Reply] [Original]

Enough with the figurines covered in hot glue and the dragon dildos. Post up some actually useful 3D printed stuff we can all use and make others want to get started making/using 3D printers.

>60k RPM Vacuum-Powered Rotary Tool that sucks up dust as you work.
http://hackaday.com/2013/06/11/60000-rpm-vacuum-powered-rotary-tool-was-3d-printed/
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:76369

>> No.652892

>>652462
Well, I guess I'll bump this thread then.

>> No.653024

it is hard to print anything decent with home-grade 3d printers

>> No.653061

good luck making something with moving parts with an affordable desktop 3d printer.

Eventually i want a 3d printer after i am out of school. Im going for metallurgical engineering. My main plan is to print shit i make on my computer then use the printings to create molds for casting.

I want to have my own printing press and make my own books just because. Main plan is to design my own type font. Make something on the computer then print it out, use it to make silicone molds, and do a lost wax casting technique. If i want to i may make my own paper as well. I already have experience with making paper for origami.

First step is to just finish school and pay off my debt so i can save up for a decent workshop space. I dont know if i want a house with a building on my own property or an apartment type situation where i rent a building for a workshop. Hell maybe i can just rent a space in an industrial area and just live in my shop.

I guess it depends on where i end up working and what's available. I want a decent machinist, TIG, and foundry, and leather working area. I probably will have to get a futon and set it up in my shop to keep costs down.

>> No.653155

>>653061
>Post up some actually useful 3D printed stuff we can all use

Not bitch and moan and make excuses nor turn this thread into your livejournal.

>> No.653166
File: 92 KB, 1284x858, lens holder.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
653166

>3D printed stuff we can all use
IMO that aproach is wrong. Stuff that is usefull to anyone shouldn't be 3D printed.
3D printing is for prototyping. As an example this lens holder. Noone would ever consider producing that in masses but I needed it for a project. That is when 3D printing gets usefull.

>> No.653172

>>653061
>school debt

lel. Should have invested in the tools you wanted.

>> No.653175

>>653166
>Stuff that is usefull to anyone shouldn't be 3D printed.

Sure it should. Take the rotary tool in the OP. Those things are useful to lots of people. That one can be used with a number of vacuums. It isn't limited to duty cycle since it won't heat up like say a multi-speed Dremel and you can make it multi-speed by opening/closing an air vent along the vaccuum hose.

>> No.653176
File: 28 KB, 499x322, 1365262405017.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
653176

>>653061

>> No.653188

>>653175
Let me express this a little better. It shouldn't be the reason to get a 3D printer

>> No.653190

>>652462
i made a second 3d printer, does that count?

>> No.653191

>>653175
Poor example.
Dremels are about the flimsiest and noisiest "branded" rotary tools in the market, that's why a fragile and noisy 3D printed toy may look better in comparison.

I own a 3D printer and they are only competitive for custom stuff.

>> No.653208

>>653191
>>653188
>>653061
>>653166
>you can't make anything useful except for prototyping and specialty needs

That doesn't even make sense at all.

3D printed firearms
http://defdist.org/

3D Printed Acoustic Guitar
http://cubify.com/blog/a-3d-printed-acoustic-guitar/

3D Printed Loom
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11374

3D Printed Bikinis
http://www.continuumfashion.com/N12.php

3D Printed Drone
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:234867

3D Printed Shower Head
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40903

List of useful 3D printed things
http://www.businessinsider.com/useful-3d-printer-projects-2013-9?op=1

There's even 3D printed cordless drills being made now.

>> No.653212
File: 67 KB, 1365x916, its empty.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
653212

>>653208
>3D printed firearms
Have fun with your right hand as long as it lasts

>3D Printed Acoustic Guitar
Do it with a consumer grade FDM machine.

>3D Printed Loom
>usefull

>3D Printed Bikinis
No. 2 strikes again

>3D Printed Drone
>using 3D printed parts as strucural components

>3D Printed Shower Head
Have fun keeping that clean

>3D printed cordless drills
Are they better than traditionally manufactured cordless drills?

>List of useful 3D printed things
see pic

>> No.653227

>>653212
>a full contrarian posts

Have fun doing anything in your life with that type of attitude.

>see pic
>Continue to Business Insider >>

You are so inept you can't even get that right. Don't project your failures onto other people.

>> No.653266

>>653227
nice attack point but I wouldn't call a padlock out of plasic and a lamp that couldn't handle a light bulb usefull either

>> No.653280

>>653266
Locks are to keep honest people out, not prevent actual criminals out. They always break any lock, no matter what.

>lamp

Do people still use incandescent lights?

>> No.653319

>>653280
Grossly.

>> No.653330

>>653319
I'm sure they have the option of useing CFLs or LEDs instead of incandescents if they are able to use a 3D printer to print out a lamp.

>> No.653361

>>653175
>Take the rotary tool in the OP.
i don't have a 3D printer and haven't ever seen one of these vacuum-grinder things IRL,,,,, but the more I think about this, the more skeptical I am.

the project files seem to show that the shaft itself is 3D printed? that would suck, plain and simple. there's no way it would start out straight, or stay straight when you tried to grind anything. I had assumed that was the part that was machined. there is ways round that, because there is very-similar parts you can buy already-made that would not need any machining,,,, except for the spinning rotors.

and the spinning rotors themselves are plastic? at 60K rpms? that part I find very hard to believe, every thermoplastic I've ever worked with would creep under pressure. I had also assumed the spinning rotors were made of metal, too. how did he figure out that this thing would spin at 60K?

>> No.653378

>>653361
The attachment is a replacement part for a Dremel. Try watching the video, you get to see the insides and everything.

>> No.653386
File: 1.64 MB, 2592x1936, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
653386

>>652462

3D printing is still in its early stages, the technology is being misused in the sense that it has so many benificial possibilities. Yet people make stupid rings or gimmicky bollocks for the sake of it.

Printed organ valves or personalised structures that save lives are a good example of the correct direction.
Printed components in space where limited access to materials may be another.

There is a long way to go, but the future of the tech is incredible.
Designers are abusing it to create forms that would be difficult to make using traditional methods, but fuck it; a trend is a trend & makes them money so I understand. That's not to say there aren't some interesting shapes about.

Pic related, a chair that cannot be sat on. Nonsense.

I love that you are only limited by your imagination & creative ability, pure design

>> No.653388

>>653386
>the technology is being misused

lol well, you can say that about anything. from idiots that should be allowed to drive to other idiots showing things down their urethras. And that bloody lens flare tool, don't get me started on that.

>> No.653550

>>653386
>3D printing is still in its early stages
SLA and FDM have been around for how long?

My problem is people talking about stuff in a way that makes others think they can do that with desktop FDM Printers.

>>653208
Just like this guy with his Bikinis.

>> No.653556

>>653386
3D printing is not in its early stages, the useful patents for it are at their end-of-life.
When they die, the wheels start turning.

>> No.653601
File: 50 KB, 1066x685, jeep water guard-1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
653601

>>652462
I made this to keep my car from breaking down when it rains. It sits over the cars computer and catches any water that drips under the hood. A piece of plastic tubing is connected to the bottom of the tray and the other end goes into the small cube that attaches to a drain hole in the front passenger wheel well.
Its there as backup as I tried to find and fix the leak itself but it only took a few minutes to make and put in with some heavy duty outdoor double sided tape.

>> No.653603
File: 44 KB, 842x591, sewing machine bobbin cover1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
653603

>>652462
This s a sewing machine bobbin cover. My mother has a very old sewing machine that you cant find parts for, and fortunately this is the only thing on it to ever break. It only took a few minutes to print and has worked great for her

>> No.653604
File: 21 KB, 524x689, shredder safety pin.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
653604

>>652462
this is the safety lock for a paper shredder. they put them on to make sure you cant get your hands in the metal bits. it also makes it so you have to use the half gallon trash can it comes with.
I had piles of papers that needed to be shredder so I made this and set the shredder on top of a 55 gallon can. I didn't have to stop shredding to switch out the bag for a long time.

>> No.653605
File: 88 KB, 635x881, stir box.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
653605

>>652462
This was a magnetic stir plate box for my brother in law. He was getting into home brewing and wanted to aerate his yeast. he found some plan to hack together a stir plate with a 120mm fan and a voltage regulator. So I made a case to put it in and the ring holds the neodymium magnets.

>> No.653608
File: 71 KB, 895x655, watch strap retainer.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
653608

>>652462
this was just a watch strap retainer. I had a rubber watch band that was nice when I got it. but eventually one of the band retainers broke. getting an exact replacement band just for the one piece would have been $40. so I just printed this and glued the flaps together after it was in place.

>> No.653609
File: 36 KB, 730x598, dw660 mount.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
653609

>>652462
this is a spindle mount for my shapeoko mill. I could have bought one as an upgrade but it was easier to just modify the design and print one. its worked well so far.
I put it up on the thingiverse and people seemed to like it.

>> No.653610
File: 54 KB, 1129x654, cell tray.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
653610

>>652462
this is a cell phone/headphone tray. I mounted it on the wall by my bed and it hold my cell phone while it charges at night so its not in the bed with me anymore. it holds my headphones from the bottom hook for the same reason.
I put a little of that non slip rubber you put in kitchen drawers on the top to keep the phone from sliding off and its been great.

>> No.653612

>>653601
>>653603
>>653604
>>653605
>>653608
Now thats what I'm talking about. Specialiced things you need.
Not gimmiky shit like toothpaste helpers

>> No.653614
File: 635 KB, 1229x370, arduino_uno_r3_base-fb.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
653614

>>652462
this was a base for an arduno uno with a solid bottom so you cant short it out on anything. no one on the thingiverse had one of those, they were all open bottomed. its also the same height as a breadboard flush mounts the board and has the notched sides so you can hook them together. its been pretty useful

after these this made a few more useful parts but you get the idea.

>> No.654580

>>653556
>>653550

Relatively* new, it depends which timescale you reference, tech released yesterday could be considered old. But in comparison to injection moulding, it is a new manufacturing method.

>> No.654583

>>654580
"Realtively new" is true. "But in its early stages" isn't

>> No.654690

>>653610
I like your designs but this one is a fucking shelf

>> No.654696

>>654583
it is also true but for consumer market
probably in 5-10 years we can have affordable quality 3d printers targeted for personal use
I bet we will get cheaper 3d print out stores in 1-2 years

>> No.654703 [DELETED] 
File: 33 KB, 628x472, 1901200_829406463739597_3527758988649247539_n_preview_featured[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
654703

>>654690
yes it is a shelf
I needed a small shelf to hold my cell phone and head phones.
I'm not seeing why that's a problem. unless you're implying that 3d printing should only ever be used for items that are difficult to make with conventional tools.
The thread asked for practical items. The shelf is practical I use it every day.

If you want useless bullshit to complain about go get yourself the STL for some "pony ears" off the thingiverse
pic related

>> No.654975
File: 109 KB, 200x200, Red.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
654975

If I had a 3d-printer, I'd try to make some mechanical switches a-la poor man's Cherry MX, with some copper(?) wire as a vitamine.
Shouldn't be that hard.

>> No.655808

>>654975
>Shouldn't be that hard.
lel
whenever this is even uttered...

>> No.656544
File: 93 KB, 900x740, Finger Final.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
656544

Made this for some guy on here who had lost his distal finger joint.
Been thinking of making an improved version using a proper four-bar linkage instead of the system it's got. The straps on the back were meant to stretch and maintain the proper position of the end link. Turns out that didn't work so great once I printed the thing.

>> No.656579

>>656544
Hey man, Great to see your still around

>> No.656592

>>656544
Do you know of resources on mechanisms ?

>> No.656742

>>656592

>http://www.engr.sjsu.edu/youssefi/me154/notes/mechanisms-newSJ.pdf
This is a good overview it includes most concepts and is pretty condensed.

>http://www.mediafire.com/view/dl34evbg3g7ar02/191534443-R-L-Norton-Design-of-Machinery-Mechanisms-and-Machines-2nd-Ed.pdf
This book is pretty word heavy but you can skip most of that. It covers everything on mechanisms thoroughly. I'd suggesting just skipping to the bits you want to know, most of it is common sense stuff or useless jargon.

Really though there aren't any good resources on mechanisms in my opinion. The documentation of the entire field is lacking or relies on bizarre nonsensical nomenclature. You're better off studying classical mechanics and geometry (particularly constructions), and relying on your own wits the majority of the time.

What are you wanting to do?

>> No.658148

>>653614
awesome

>> No.658254

>>653280
>keep honest people out
>honest
m8 I think you got this wrong. If everyone in the world was honest I don' t think you'd need the lock

>> No.658621
File: 1.52 MB, 4307x3238, prusa.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
658621

Oh fuck yeah, a 3d printing thread. I was at /g/ but they're a bunch of not-responding dickheads so here goes.

I went on a hardcore wiki walk earlier today about the current developments in 3d printer technology, specifically repraps, and have to say that I am hooked. I'd very much like to build one and figure that in my n00b opinion a Prusa i3 would be a pretty good place to start at. Does anyone here have experience building 3d printers in general or this one in particular?

>> No.658626

>>658621
In general.
Made one as final project for mechatronics training.

>> No.658628

>>658626
Well fuck if I know what to actually ask you about, what should I watch out for? Is that thing workable?

>> No.658632

>>658628
The i3 looks a bit flimsy IMO. Wouldn't expect high speeds and be ready for recalibrating.
But despite that and the general downsides of FDM printing I can't see anything wrong with it

>> No.658634

>>658632
Would you recommend any other model? I really can't judge them very well. Also what is this EiNSTeiN variant that I keep hearing about?

>> No.658640

>>658634
From personal experience I can recomend the Makergear M2. Quite solid built. Propriety software only if you want. Highly responsive customer support.

No clue on EiNSTeiN the hardware side of the Reprap project has always been a riddle to me.
>First: lets use mostly parts from hardware stores
>Then: lets print as much parts as we can
>Now: lets start with custom machined parts

>> No.658656

>>658621
Nothing wrong with it that I can see. Spend money on a good hot-end. The cheap j-heads DO work, but you'll spend more time monkeying with your settings and cleaning it from clogs because you switched filaments.

>> No.658671
File: 77 KB, 600x600, Ormerod_kit_big1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
658671

>>658640
>1475 dollarydoos unassembled
Nyyyeeaaaaahhhhh I think I'll stay /diy/.

Well, I was actually going to start sort of a project with this.

The print every part aspect of the system here appeals to me very much and I think the custom machined part is rubbish; however I see great sucess in combining the two to something more workable.

To make an example, for that Prusa i3 I'd need to specifically buy that alu frame for hard cash from that Prusa fagget or get someone to lathe me a copy. I don't like that. What if I could build a bigger 3D printer for a 3D printing club or something and then we'd put out plates like that made of plastic so we can all build our own custom Prusas? Centralized mass production will always have advantages over localized manufacture, if only by the expansiveness of the gear possible.

Also, Omerod. Looks cool and really simple. Thoughts?

>> No.658676

>>658671
In terms of rigidity the i3 looks way better than that thing. Where the hell is the second linear rod for Y and Z ?
>What if I could build a bigger 3D printer for a 3D printing club or something
Bigger isn't always better here. Increasing build size makes thermal expansion problems bigger too.

>> No.658688
File: 2.02 MB, 2831x3863, Mendel90_Dibond.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
658688

>>658676
I wouldn't know about that but I don't aim to build anything but rigid rectangular parts with it anyway, flat on the surface and about 6mm thick. Should be doable, right?

Also, I just looked more stuff up and the Mendel90 seems interesting, it looks like it's built like a brick shithouse.

>> No.658711

>>658688
thats pretty much the same design as the i3 but with wood/acrylic sheets.
See how every axix has 2 smooth rods? If there is only one the entire carriage could rotate arond the rod.

>> No.658726

>>658671
>>658688
Why do these both have a bowden tube, when the extruder is direct drive?

>> No.658738

>>658726
It's not a bowden tube it's a filament guid tube. Those things are handy

>> No.658740

>>658738
Oooh.

Googling now. I think I may add one to my solidoodle.

>> No.658779

>>658621
As a guy who never really built anything, buying a set with all the pieces and following the instructions was very easy. Just do as it says and don't go too fast. For example, I cut my timing belt too short for one of the motors and had to make a zip-tie rope attached to it as an extension to get to the fixed part.

You do need to make some basic soldering and buy some stuff that's not included (piece of glass, ATX power supply) but apart from that it's pretty easy.

Again, I can't say I'm experienced with electronics nor building shit in general.

>> No.658957

>>658740
Wait they don't come with that? Those cheap bastards.

>> No.659043

here's something:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213890


In fact, there's tons of useful stuff you can print, you either have to search or be creative enough to come up with it yourself. Ignore naysayers, they just want someone to care about their opinion.

>> No.659065

>>658779
>implying I have 500 pounds to throw at that nophead git
I will mcguyver this for myself, with my bare hands.
That's half the fun, isn't it.
Right?

>> No.659069

>>659065
When you do that it would probably be better to do your own frame design instead of trying to copy something. It will work better with what you have around.

>> No.659070

>>659069
Well, maybe I expressed myself wrong. I'll go buy the parts on my own bill, I'll assemble the kit on my own. I don't want to hand some git in another country five hundred bucks to get what I can manage myself.

>> No.659074

>>659070
Then you will probably still need to buy some stuff from a specialised shop.
As >>658656 said. Don't cheap out on the hotend.

>> No.659076

>>659074
Most likely, these things require specialized items to work properly after all.

Another thing, I work at Mercedes-Benz and we do have a large rapid prototyping departement, they seem to work primarily with plaster, for models to view, and sand, for foundry moulds to pour liquid steel into. Do you think it'd be worth checking them out and asking if they can print me the printable parts? If anyone can do it I'd say they can.

>> No.659077

>>659076
Asking wouldn't hurt I guess.

Also you might be able to find people to print parts for you locally. Just ask in the Reprap IRC.

>> No.659080

>>659077
I did, it seems like southern Germany is entirely vacated of people who do it, everyone seems to be up around Berlin or Cologne at the very least.

I'm going to head to some FreeLab called place this evening to check out of any of them do 3D printing but aren't in the online scene. It seems like a worthy pursuit.

>> No.659083

>>659080
Actually I live there.
Sure check out that stuff. I once vistited a build weekend to see how Prusas perform. The i3 wasn't a thing back then though.

>> No.659091

>>659083
Well, if we're at this point: is there a single printer that actually lives up to the Reprapdesign document, that is, that can print the majority of it's frame parts on its own? I don't like looking at the Prusa i3's aluminium frame and thinking about how I'll have to pay for it.

Maybe print the parts diagonally so to gain more length and then slot and screw them together tightly?

>> No.659095

>>659091
The GUS Simpson might be the closest one I guess.
Probalbly a bitch to get accuracy with.

>> No.659098

>>659095
Fuck that, I think I'll have to figure one out after I build my first own one. Probably have to find someone to pool cash with me so we can build one together.

>> No.659102

>>659098
>needs to poolcash for a Reprap
What the hell are you dooing at Mercedes and why the hell don't they pay you?

>> No.659108

>>659102
I'm an intern, I get to jog after the engineers and watch them do crazy cool stuff, then get stuck analyzing entire wire mesh crates parts that were declared damaged or insufficient by our subcontractors, for hours on end. I get 200 bucks a month, 100 of which the cantina uses up and I have to do at least eight weeks of this to be taken into Stuttgart Uni, it's a requirement.

Really interesting work environment to be sure, I'm just happy I still live at my mum's. The only reason the pay is so shit is because I'm not a university student yet, once I am they'll have to give me 700 a month. Before you ask, yeah I did check out the IG Metall office they can do nothing for me.

>> No.659135

>>659108
Turns out I know someone working there. So If you need printed parts I might be able to reach out to you.

>> No.659136

>>659135
Give me a name. The departement I work at is the foundry for turbine casings (PTU/PEG) and the Stuttgart factory complex is huge enough to be a city in and of itself, god knows how many other departements have 3D printers.

>> No.659139

>>659136
How many interns are there?

>> No.659146

>>659139
In mine? I think I'm the only one. I've got a pretty recognizable moustache if you're looking for an ID method.

>> No.659147

>>659146
Ill se around. Not sure if that guy actually works in stuttgart or somwere else.

>> No.659217
File: 65 KB, 377x561, german music scooter techno.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
659217

Hello, it's me, the needy German 3D printer wannabe from further up.
>go to open laboratory
>fucking infinite space and tools n shit
>two guys there to talk to
>lay out the idea to build a 3D printer together and use it to make shit and maybe even more printers to sell
>they never heard of this shit
>I elaborate for half an hour
>"This is literally the best idea we've had here in three years. I'll tell everyone, you come back next week with detailed info on how to build one of these and then we'll get on this together."
>mfw
Should I take this to /biz/ now?

Also, that task. I figure I'll assemble a list for theMendel90 since it looks very solid and actually halfway like an industrial product. Can anyone help me on the small bits and bobs necessary?

>> No.659231

>>653061
Where are you going to school, at? I want a graduate degree in that (pref online) I have B.S Mechanical Engineering and MBA

>> No.659254

>>659217
>That image
Off-topic, but that is very funny.

>> No.659508

bumping

>> No.659556
File: 386 KB, 2304x1728, 9001DSCN.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
659556

>>659080
you know... germany is not that empty

map with reprapers in germany: https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=206235815748459171030.0004b975e20b2034dc4c8&msa=0&ll=51.275662,12.194824&spn=11.363932,23.752441


>>659217
no, just do it yourself. btw. you will find this guys shop interesting: www.reprap.cc/
that guy sells all you need, filaments, kits (with missing screws but other parts are there)... electronics, extruders and other stuff...

i myself got my mendel max from that guy and it served me quite good so far, the extruder never clogs i have nearly no recalibration needs and its making nice sounds when printing
...although had to reprint some parts, change the wades extruder to use fishbone gears (these rock) and extend it a bit... but that is a given when you start with a kit

pic related my setup... and yes... the dumb-bells... i know

if i would start with a 3d printer today i would start with either an i3 kit or a mendel max kit, these two look like the best you can get right now

>> No.659569

>>659556
Wow, you don't look like you're swimming in money at fucking all don't you. I'm literally operating on a shoestring budget, of course I will gang up to get it done.

>> No.659572

>>659569
i am not swimming in money but i have some spare... thanks if i make the impression of having way too much

>> No.659601

>>653319
I praise the ones who do.

>> No.659714

>>659601
>wasting nrj

>> No.659718

>>653212
I hate you, please move to another planet as soon as possible. 3D printing will only get better from here, it will become more useful as time goes by.

>> No.659720

thats p cool

>> No.659744

made a thread for this but i'll ask here;

i want to get into hobby level 3d printing

i hear the printrbot simple metal($550) is great in that its easy to set up but very has high layer precision, looks good too

however, how moddable is it? i want to add a heated print bed, expand the printing area, and a second extruder for printing with water soluble filament as a support structure.
are there known ways to make these mods to a simple metal? possibly with guides?
or would i be better off with a plain old printrbot simple($300) to do these mods to?

>> No.659760

>>659744
>printrbot simple metal
does not look very modable

heated bed may work, will reduce your print dimensions along z-axis

>expand the printing area
usual answer: forget it

>second extruder
try something with less metal, then it should be as easy as printing new parts... but metal ... nope


>printrbot simple
that one does not have metal but wood parts, so without a woordcutter/wood cnc you are as screwed as with the metal one

>> No.659766

>>659760
>3d print the wood parts
y/n?

>> No.659768

>>659766
that is a hard question. from my personal feeling i would say no, because wood is usually pretty elastic and pretty sturdy, while plastic is more elastic and less sturdy... but you can always try

>> No.659769

>>659768
oh, i didnt consider that
so what would be an alternative?

>> No.659774

>>659769
i can't really say, wood is one of these problematic ressources that has so nice features that you want to use wood most of the times, not something else...

>> No.659778

>>659774
no i mean what would be an alternative 3d printer model or design or kit

>> No.659780

>>659778
i pretty much like any design on 1010 aluminium extrusions or with cheap rods, but the aluminium extrusions are more sturdy. the connecting parts are usually just plastic with some screws and nuts

>> No.659792

woah shit this is already autosaging?

>> No.659931

>>659760
>try something with less metal
Thats some funny shit right there.
While I agree on the printerbot metal being problematic to add a second extruder this doesn't count for all other printers.
You basicly advise to search for fragile designs because they "look simple" but that doesn't equal moddability.

>> No.659971

>>659931
>You basicly advise to search for fragile designs because they "look simple" but that doesn't equal moddability.
wrong. i advise to search for modable designs! fragility does not play any importance there as anything made from plastic is already strong enough to do the job.
This is not a fucking CNC or heavy duty industry robot... Metal is totally overengineering it.

>> No.659999

>>659971
what speeds do you usually print at?

>> No.660001

>>659999
default values - 30mm/s perimeter, 60mm infill, 130mm/s travel, temp for ABS at 245°C and thickness usually 0.2mm.

I could go faster without a problem but my tests have shown that the rigidity and stability of the printed parts are best with these settings. this is a mendel max 1.5... with a 2.0 version you can go as fast as 250mm/sec printing and 500mm/sec travel. if you take a different design with a non-moving print platform you could go even faster. however you need to consider oscillations when the head stops moving or changes direction, the faster you go the more you see these in the printed part

>> No.660011

>>660001
I usually go for 60mm/s perimeter when I want the best possible surface. At 100 cooling often gets problematic for smal parts.
I also thought about non-moving print platforms noticing that they are generally a little better in terms of shadowing. Any experience on this?
>however you need to consider oscillations
Jea that is what i had in mind.

>> No.660032

>>660011
yes my delta robot is a non-moving print platform, even though i have no sort of heat envelope/box i noticed that it can print much bigger parts with less wrapping or breaking apart. it still requires some sort heat box for huge prints...but all possible problems with the mechanics are nonexistant, while printing a part that used more than 200g of plastic has a high risk of axis shift along the axis that is moving the bed ... but then it also depends on how much current you push into the motor...

the shadowing with my delta printer is existent and caused by the head and the airtripper tube vibrating. I kind of like it because it makes a rough surface instead of the typical layer structure...
it really depends on the overall design how much shadowning you get and how much you are willing to accept

>> No.660034
File: 28 KB, 200x200, alles kaputtmachen jeden töten yotsuba killer murder.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
660034

>>>/tg/33081990
>>>/tg/33081990
>>>/tg/33081990

>> No.660037

>>660032
Interesting. If I were to build a new one I would probably go for a XY-Head Z-Bed design.
What are the advantages of a delta over that IYO?

>> No.660068

>>660037
lets see...

xy head speed should be on par with a delta, you will have the advantage that you can use a direct drive extruder on a non-delta. For a delta you usually have only the option of an Airtripper, which really sux balls IMO:
- 1.75mm filament breaks and clogs right in the gearbox. you can fix it but it's a lot try and fail.
- retract and play really hard to calibrate properly... i haven't fixed this one yet and did not bother, it only affects parts with lots of gaps
- can't use 3mm filament

You will also have a hard time fitting a proper cooling solution onto the delta-head, it's simply not square enough and other designs move the mass center way above where you want it to be...

A clear disadvantage of a non-delta is the slow z-speed, you really can't play with settings like z-lift of 2 or 10 mm every time the head goes to a new position, a delta does this with ease.

Calibration is not trivial on a delta, but once you calibrated it you usually don't need to recalibrate ever. However my mendel does not need any calibration either, and it has no endstops at all!

You can't construct a foldable delta. I have not seen anyone try... so it's not very portable if you make it big

Print precision along xy is not linear for a delta, you usally won't notice but it's there. Highest precision is right close to each arm, then it goes down and it's the lowest in the center.

A delta can easily be constructed to print any height. but with the new i3 design that advantage is like totally gone.

Another thing with a delta is that you can't simply use the newest firmware, because it has no delta-print support build in. Means you usually just need to grab two branches and merge the delta functionality into the firmware. Same goes for fancy displays... but you usually don't need the newest firmware anyway, just one that works...

>> No.660069

>>660068
all that said i think the best feature of a delta printer is:

it look fancy and cool, not like all the other 3d printers!

>> No.660078

>>660068
Looks like deltas aren't a thing for me.
About that Z-lift. Never had a problem with 2mm. Gravety assists. But why would someone want a 10mm Z-lift?

>> No.660484

do you think we'll get hobby level stereolithography printing in the next few years?
the stuff with the powder and lasers

>> No.660486

>>660484
this is a thing
http://pwdr.github.io/

>> No.660546
File: 56 KB, 624x350, Boeing-pipe.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
660546

>>652462
The most practical things I have seen 3d printed are widgets for airplanes. Little plastic parts that do things like channel air for air conditioning and hold wires in place.

It's cheaper to print them than to make them with injection molding. Plus with additive manufacturing they can be made lighter than if they were to be made by injection molding.

Because airplanes tend to have a lot of these 'widgets' in them, doing so saves millions of dollars worth of fuel over the aircraft's lifetime

>> No.660560

>>660546
Looks like a nerf-gun.

>> No.660565

>>660484
Stereolithography is usually refered to that thing with resin and laser/DLP-Projector.
What you are talking about is SLS or SLM.
That said. There was kind of a hype about it since some important patents are getting out of date.
Haven't seen anything besides >>660486 though.

>> No.660577

>>660565
Check this out: reprap.org/wiki/OpenSLS

I'm building one once I've saved up enough for an imported Chinese laser cutter...

>> No.660703

>>660577
>>660565
oh shit that was it, laser sintering

>> No.661067
File: 15 KB, 410x262, dlp 3d printer.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
661067

>>660484
>>hobby level stereolithography printing
If you mean printing stuff with resin, that's already a thing, you can modify a projector and make a very good stereolithography set up.

Because of the way patents are, you might even better building one yourself than buying one.

As far as powder sintering type processes go, I'm doubtful that it will be possible to get good prints with by DIYing them.

Sintering stuff is hard as sintering scales with T^4, meaning very small temperature differences can cause big problems. Not to mention you need a heated build chamber and an inert gas atmosphere to print.

A company back in 2009ish tried to make a home version of a powder sintering machine, but failed miserably. Interestingly though it didn't use a laser and instead used a really bright lightbulb, so it might be worth looking into again...

Pic related was run on a garage machine

>> No.661073
File: 234 KB, 1200x800, highres garage machine.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
661073

>>661067
oops wrong pic related

>> No.661361
File: 237 KB, 511x383, 1347528733369610.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
661361

What software combo I should start with Prusa i3? Is Pronterface, Cura and Marlin a good start? I'm using UBuntu with the printer and Inventor for the models.

>> No.661363

>>661361
Take your weaksauce FDM machine and get out. Your kind is not wanted here.

>> No.661422
File: 752 KB, 2368x3200, IMG_20140528_233949.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
661422

I printed out a light shade and a better housing for a wireless charger

>> No.661424
File: 38 KB, 816x459, 2014-07-01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
661424

Using a solidoodle 2, it's really nice to be able to print random small things from guitar picks to hooks. Printed a 18mm bowl holder most recently.

>> No.661428
File: 302 KB, 1200x675, jH49S2a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
661428

This print was done on a Stratasys Fortus 400.
71 Cubic inches, approximately 12"x10"x6"

http://imgur.com/a/ryBDI

>> No.661433
File: 819 KB, 1824x3200, IMG_20140617_231128.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
661433

>>661428
That's nice, it would be great to have a larger printer, would love to print a case

>> No.661478

>most stable, and thus fastest 3d printer design. kit or bought. under $700
go

>> No.661479

>>661478
I enjoy my solidoodle ($650) but it takes some getting used to. Depends on the size. There are some smaller ones that look decent but their plate is maybe 4" so you won't be printing anything large

>> No.661516

>>661478
I like my Prusa i3 from Makerfarm.Comes as a kit, which I think is really good; assembling it yourself lets you understand how they work, and thus make things like calibration easier.

>> No.661537

>>661424
Pic looks like you are underextruding a bit.

>> No.661644

>>661361
i am using pronterface + slic3r + marlin and it works good enough

>> No.661836

>>661516
isnt that a $1000 kit?

>> No.661840

so...
there's a lot of 3d printers floating around ebay, there's even some that are supposedly amazon returns sold as-is for parts...
should i avoid or what? i suspect there are copious ways to hack a non working commercial printer (like a flashforge) into a perfectly usable printer
i mean shit these are going for like $200 when they retail for $1,300

>> No.661848

i need something moderately inexpensive thats relatively easy to set up and get started with, but has lots of modding potential so i can slowly add things onto it as i need them like a second extruder, heated print bed, larger print area, etc
what should i get?

>> No.661849

GUYS GUYS I JUST HAD THE BEST IDEA. you know about how movement of the print head causes oscillations that can fuck up your prints if the head moves too fast? what if you made a second x/y frame directly above the first one, with a weight instead of an extruder, and it was programmed to take the same x/y movement commands as the regular head, but mirror them

so its basically active dampening

could it work?

>> No.661916

>>653212
>>3D Printed Shower Head
>Have fun keeping that clean

if it gets dirty print a new one and toss the old one out! jesus, you have a 3d printer for chrissakes!

>> No.661949
File: 47 KB, 640x480, SVTzbe4l[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
661949

Made a partly 3D printed microscope for $4, looks like shit but works

pic related, it's dead skin

>> No.661990

>>661849
sounds complicated, but maybe?

>> No.661992

heads up, there are really damn strong blends now, specifically ABS/polycarbonate blends
http://www.proto-pasta.com/shop/pcabs

you could _probably_ print functional tools from this, like wrenches or screwdrivers. its tough as fuck
BUT its extremely humidity sensitive, you'll need a dessicated ventilated build area or chamber

>> No.661999

>>661849
speaking of this, what's the most hackable enclosure-type printer, by enclosure type i mean the print bed ONLY moves in the z axis, or is fixed, and the print head moves in the X/Y axis freely

>> No.662002

>>661849
>>661999
actually, all you need is a counterweight interpreting the upcoming movement commands, and it only needs to move a little bit in all directions very quickly to counteract jerk, not acceleration

>> No.662004

>>661849
>>662002

actually, you can simply compensate with software alone.

>> No.662031

>>661992
>http://www.proto-pasta.com/shop/pcabs
too expensive right now. i like my 1kg for around 30 bucks...
for that price i could go liquid for SLA

>> No.662057

>>662004
yes, but it saps speed.
this approach allows for arbitrarily fast movement with no risk of malformed print because you are physically nullifying oscillation

>> No.662060
File: 55 KB, 400x267, 2433b89b447f8c8089b0a165cd92a1d3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
662060

>>652462
I cant image it has much torque for cutting metal.

>> No.662096

http://octoprint.org/

>my fucking face when for the price of a rasberry pi, a cheap webcam, and some setup time i can make my 3d printer wifi enabled with live camera monitoring and timelapse support

shit yeah open source software

>> No.662159

I used Cura+Marlin, calibration and config.h takes more time than I could imagine. Also the hot end thermistor got loose (kapton lost its grip).

>>661361

>> No.662180

/vr/ here, we want a 3d printer to make replacement cartridge and console cases, or cartridge cases for flashcarts

>>653155
>LiveJournal
oldfag detected

>> No.662224

>>662180
>replacement cartridge and console cases, or cartridge cases for flashcarts
that's......a really fuckin good idea
look on shapeways for that

>> No.662537

what's the most active and populated 3d printing forum out there

>> No.662541

>>661916
>just print a new shower head each time the previous one gets dirty
what are you, filthy rich?

>> No.662552

>>653172
>invested in the tools you wanted
what tools do you need, go to school to learn where to look to learn what tools you need.

>> No.662625

>>662537
try the reprap IRC chanel

>> No.662660

>>662625
>reprap IRC chanel
oh, i didnt even consider they might have an irc room
http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=reprap

>> No.662687

>>662537
>>662625
>>662660
>reprap IRC
Lol, it's like a TV sales channel, the community there ahs fully morphed to peddling their goods all damn day

>> No.662703

>>662687
why? i've been in there for a little while and nobody has really pushed their own kits or anything

>> No.662756

thinking about getting one of these
http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/prusa-10-i3v-kit-v-slot-extrusion.html
the i3 has the advantage of being a very hacked platform, meaning loads of mod guides and parts for it already

i might print parts for a delta using this thing and build one of those later on

>> No.662765

why haven't you built a simpson GUS yet, /diy/?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEGTe1G2Gqs#t=66

>> No.662770

>>662756
Why delta is better than common 3d-printers?

>> No.662793

>>662770
pros:
looks really cool while printing
very very little if any whiplash (shaking from the print head moving around, introducing errors into your prints)
simpler to assemble than most, fewer parts too
less horizontal space needed for larger build volumes, its mostly vertical

cons:
harder to calibrate, more finnicky, just harder to get printing "right"
lack of mod and community support, they're not that popular yet so GL getting help
they get very tall very fast as you scale up the build volume, because the arms need more vertical travel in order to translate horizontally, ON TOP of the extra height needed for the higher Z axis
visually open design means they're hard to encase and regular humidity/airflow without some wacky plexiglass prism shit

>> No.662838

>>662765
Because the nigger didn't release the blueprints yet

>> No.662841

>>662765
looks shit, does not print any better than any other printer, does not increase build volume... no thx
>>662838
wut? you need blueprints to make a 3d printer? are you sure you belong onto /diy/ ?

>>662793
>very very little if any whiplash (shaking from the print head moving around, introducing errors into your prints)
that is actually the worst problem of a delta. if you don't use machined parts you can be pretty sure that your head is shaking, wobbling and doing all shit to reduce quality

>> No.662845

>>662841
>if you don't use machined parts you can be pretty sure that your head is shaking, wobbling and doing all shit to reduce quality
how is that different from any other 3d printer tho

>> No.662853

reminder that according to section 3.2 of the thingaverse TOS, makerbot owns everything you submit to thingaverse

>> No.662859

>>662853
Yeah i know, it's a scummy site for scum. However, since this is the reprap community built aroundgiving copyright the finger I don't think they gonna have much luck enforcing that.

>> No.662861
File: 757 KB, 1280x960, 48.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
662861

>>662859
>giving copyright the finger
http://josefprusa.cz/open-hardware-meaning/

>> No.662862

>>662861
forgot tl;dr version
>makerbot team, fot all nice and free reprap stuff, gave copyright a finger, claimed they invented the whole thing and didn't contribute anything to reprap back.

There wewe somewhere similar rant written by developer of reprap's Gen7 electronics.

Developing open source hardware sucks.

>> No.662866

>>662862
>>662861
I know this shit
http://reprap.org/wiki/User:Traumflug
This guy, I got into direct contact with him to order some gen7 board to start my printer off of, he's so disillusioned with RepRap it's insane. Open Source hardware is still in it's infancy and is having massive teething pains but he has the right idea, NC licenses work the way they are supposed to.

>> No.662926

>>662845
i think you did not get the point. think any other 3d printer is more stable than your best effort at making a delta

>> No.662987

>>662060

Neither does a real Dremel, they rely solely on spinning the tip to very high RPM, and using that built up angular momentum.

>> No.662989

>>661067
>A company back in 2009ish tried to make a home version of a powder sintering machine, but failed miserably. Interestingly though it didn't use a laser and instead used a really bright lightbulb, so it might be worth looking into again...

Yeah, sounds like they blew the air out of their tires even before they took their first ride. I think it can be done and done well.

>> No.663222

>>652462
The conception of 3d printing is amazing.
The reality of 3d printing is functional
The products made by 3d printing while ingenious they are tragically poor.

For the money you will invest in a 3d printer
you would be close to the price of a CNC mill in
which you could make any variety of functional
quality items that are made of any material you
like.

3D printing's true glory is prototyping and while i like what i can use my printer for, i find that i use my cnc laser cutter and mill way more.

>> No.663653

what modeling software do you use? I need to learn one (would prefer if it was available on linux)

>> No.663687

>>663222
>CNC mill
Problem with that is I live in an apartment and wouldn't really have a place to put/use it. The 3d printer is nice because they dont make much mess and are small

>> No.663690

>>663687
Isn't CNC mill is just a 3d-printer but with drill instead of extruder? (or other way around)

>> No.663691

>>663690
well if you're subtracting material then it has to go somewhere, you'd need a floor that was easily washed down

>> No.663695

>>663690
i'm not too familiar with open source CNC machines but the movements needed for milling are somewhat different. i'm not actually sure if you can use a 3d printer frame to CNC

>> No.663697

>>663690
Any halfway decent CNC mill is going to weight a lot more than a 3D printer of the same work envelope, mainly to dampen vibration from cutting. Tehn add onto that some sort of enclosure to contain chips and keep coolant from spraying all over the place and direct it back into the coolant tank (Mist coolant isnt quite as messy but it does eventually settle on things near the mill.

>> No.663730

>>663697
Pressurised air also works good when milling plasitcs. Only problem is that the chips fly everywhere.

>> No.664438

>>663730
So basically a CNC mill wastes assloads of material, is noisy as shit, eats more voltage and all in all is less of a home device and more of an industry tool? Wow, who'd have guessed.

>> No.664466
File: 434 KB, 3059x2110, Isis_One_Velociraptor_in_support.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
664466

>>664438
Just like a 3d printer, the noise and waste are dependent to what you're doing with it.

Use a CNC to mill brass gears? Yes, it will be loud, and waste much material. Use it to to make PCBs? Not much waste, and fairly quiet. Use a 3d printer to make something with overhangs? It will waste a lot of material on supports.

Pic related: print in support material. All of that has to be cut off, broken off, or otherwise removed. You CAN get water soluble print material, but it tends to be more expensive, so it's only used when the supports are too fiddly to remove, or inaccessible.

They are generally quieter though.

>> No.664467

>>664438
Why did you reply to me? Only place I used one was a workshop. Still was a lot of work to clean up after milling.

>> No.664473

>>664466
>making PCBs with a CNC
Why bother? The copper will oxidize to shit ina year anyway.

>> No.664523

>>664466
this always confused me about support material usage;
why not use a dual extruder setup with water soluble PLA, but instead of printing ALL the support material with water soluble pla (which would be expensive), just use the pla for the parts of the supports which directly contact the printed object

so the majority of the structure of the support is just cheap ABS, but the connection to the part is water soluble....

so you just dunk it in water and the support structure snaps off the model easily

is that just too complex to program?

>> No.664531

>>664523
>is that just too complex to program?
No, not really. You'd have to edit the gcode yourself, or write/modify a slicer for it though. Completely plausible.

>> No.664532 [DELETED] 

>>664473

Who cares? It won't look fresh and shiny but that doesn't mean the copper doesn't suddenly stop being conductive.

You can also just spray it with clear coat after it's assembled and tested if it's that big a deal to you.

>> No.664534

>>664473

Who cares? It won't look fresh and shiny but that doesn't mean the copper suddenly stops being conductive.

You can also just spray it with clear coat after it's assembled and tested if it's that big a deal to you.

>> No.664535

>>664534
It is what I said, in a year that sort of shit is done for. My brother made lots of homemade boards back in the 90's and it's just not up to any sort of industry standard. Half the time he scoured the parts he soldered into it for damages when it was simply the board itself that was faulty. Not worth the effort in the slightest.

>> No.664537

>>664535
>made lots of homemade boards back in the 90's and it's just not up to any sort of industry standard.
Ya don't say? Home made boards aren't up to the same standards as industrial made ones?

I'm in shock.

Catch me /diy, I'm going to faint.

>> No.664542

>>664531
awesome
and i just realized, as s bonus, this means you wont have to do much if any fine cleanup of the part (like sanding and shit) since there wont be leftovers of the abs supports

>> No.664617

I wonder how soon regular people will have access to a 3d printer in a hardware store or similar location for the purpose of printing out parts or projects? It'd be a good way to have the general public get access to a decent quality machine for a nominal fee.

>> No.664636

>>664617
not for a while, there's not much you cut costs on unless stepper motors or the electronics get way cheaper
and even then the kits are super finnicky to get set up right, way too much work for the average user

>> No.665448

>>663690
>or the other way around
nice save

in a way yes, but as >>663691
and
>>663695
have pointed out, there are important differences. In principle, you can take all the control software side and tweak it somewhat to run either a mill, a 3D printer, a laser cutter...
CNC is extremely versatile

>> No.665498

>>664537
There's three criteria for my DIY projects:
>it's cheaper than commercial items
>it's does a better job than commercial items
>it's less effort than commercial items
Bonus criteria: there are no commercial items that can do wha the DIY can do.
If not at least two are met, I'm not doing it.

>> No.666121

>>653280
Locks are for keeping out the *lazy*.

If it requires a bolt cutter to get in, then it's not worth it to the casual thief.

>> No.666139

>>666121
I've taken High quality locks off with a hammer. Have also ripped locks off with vehicles and a chain.

Not to steal or anything, just to drive down old closed off roads/ railroad tracks.

>> No.666167

>>666139
tresspassing isn't much better
esp when you're breaking peoples' stuff
locks cost money so in a sense you are stealing their money

>> No.666178

>>666167
I don't feel so bad because they were owned by old railroad companies, so whoever owns them now is probably rich.

People who try to block people from trespassing on their forested property are just angry old assholes anyway. If everyone were like that you couldn't walk more than 3 miles into a forest without being shot at.

>> No.666228

>>664542
You should be an asshat and patent the working process.

>> No.666242

>>666228
nnnnnope

>> No.666353

>>656742
Your first link doesnt work for me

>> No.666354
File: 365 KB, 632x352, absolutely crazy world cup 2014.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
666354

GRANULE BASED EXTRUDERS THAT WORK WHEN

>> No.666582

>>666354
wait, you mean like
>pour granules into a shoot
>it extrudes into filament
>you print with that filament immediately
???

that sounds overly complicated and a great way to fuck up your prints unless you build everything just right

>> No.666587

ok here's my plan

>full mini kossel kit
http://www.makergeeks.com/mikofudiypae.html

>attach to Octoprint with a raspberry pi, and then somehow get live webcam print monitoring set up
http://octoprint.org/

>upgrade to a heated print bed
http://www.ultibots.com/12v-kapton-heater-160mm-round/

>upgrade to magnetic ball joints for the end effector (produces great prints when calibrated)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-u-joint-kit-for-Kossel-Rostock-Reprap-Delta-3D-printers-/311006583537?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48696fdaf1

>upgrade to v-slot bearing carriages (much quieter)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:318745/#files

>upgrade to dual extruders (bowden), using e3d-v6 hotends
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6

hopefully i can get all this done under $900
but it'll be a formidable piece of kit at that price...
and the best part is, if i ever want a larger print bed, deltas are SUPER easy to supersize, you just get longer extrusions, a larger print bed, longer belts, and longer end effector arms. it's like $100 at most double the printing area

>> No.666589

>>666582
No you clown, I mean extruders that eat granules directly and put out liquidized plastic on the bottom as usual.

>> No.666590

>>666589
but then, how do retracts work?

>> No.666592

>>666590
Turn it in reverse like usual?

>> No.666593

>>666592
except the plastic is all liquid from the extruder, there is no intermediate solid step, and there's nothing to push back against

>> No.666594

>>666593
I'm willing to take a bit more of a mess and required sanding down as granted when I can feed plastic granule in it for literally 1€ per kg as opposed to 20€.

>> No.666595

>>666594
the reason the filament is so expensive is because there's lots of steps to making good filament. its gotta be perfect diameter and no imperfections or moisture.
there's a reason its more expensive
and if you get the cheaper stuff, its usually shitty and will fuck up your prints

>> No.666597

>>666595
case in point


>Filament..
>Don't buy cheap filament. I have some PLA that only works in a 1-2 degree window before I either jam the head, or it won't melt enough. Some of this is due to not having gear reduction, some is just the PLA, but 2 degrees is not a very big window. PLA is what busted my bowden fittings, overheated my extruder motor, made me change my print head, and just drive me batty in general. My cheap ABS on the other hand, I have 2 pounds of it, while it should be 1.75mm, 1 pound of it is nearly 2mm and will not go through the bowden tube. Get recommendations and be prepared to pay for it. As a general rule, if it's under $20 per pound, it's going to be garbage. My cheap filament probably cost me two weeks of diagnostic time, a set of bowden fittings, and possibly a head I didn't need. I have heard good things about Ultimachine and I just got some form them today, but I have yet to test it. The Living Printer Thread will probably get some good recommendations as we learn more.

that was from a forum post titled
>"So you want to build a 3d printer? (A primer)"
except i cant link it because moot thinks its spam

>> No.666608

>>661433
Is that a speaker? That makes me a little sick. Such a misuse for a 3D printer. Plasticard and some glue, 10 minutes, £5, done.

It's like the "Ooooh no 3D printers everyones going to make guns!". You can make "better" weapons cheaper, more effectively and faster with conventional methods - metalwork like turning/welding and pipe work.

3D printers should be used when conventional methods are inappropriate = too expensive, too time consuming, mechanically impossible. If you have access to buying a 3D printer (or even just using one), the area/society you're in has the conventional materials for less money/time/effort.

>> No.667488

bumpen

>> No.667496

>>666608
>make weapon
>not just turn found objects into weapons
http://www.standard.co.uk/news/partygoer-stabbed-to-death-by-gang-armed-with-knives-planks-and-bicycle-spokes-6732864.html

>> No.668036

>>667496
god damn gutter trash

>> No.668753

http://ytec3d.com/pip-boy/

>> No.668948

what retail 3D printer would you guys recommend? I just (seriously) used Sketchup for the first time and am now thinking of tons of stuff I could print with one. From the videos I've seen, the Ultimaker v2 and Robomaker are pretty nice but I don't really know of any other printers besides those and Makerbot's models

>> No.668967

I work for a factory for a large food production company. All my managers have hard ons for 3D printing and have me drawing up all sorts of machine parts to have printed.

>> No.669028

>>652462
Is it possible to print 3d printers?

>> No.669048

>>668948
Build prusa i3 from kit and you learn how these things works. Prebuilds are for girls. For extra fun try to control it with Linux.

>> No.669422
File: 1.41 MB, 714x954, coffee.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
669422

Made this replacement coffee handle

>> No.669453

>>669028
Yep.
RepRap is a self-replicating 3D printer.
You'll still need non-printable parts though, rails, bearings, electronics etc.

>> No.669476

>>669422
Nice. Is there any sort of guideline to follow when making parts that have internal reinforcement like that?

>> No.669518

>>669422
Niggah I got the same fucking coffee machine

>> No.669521

name one thing you could make that has an actual use to you using a rep rap that you couldnt just as easily make by quickly tapping out a mold with a bench router, filling with some cheap fibre resin composite and a rough sanding back.

>> No.669525

>>669476
that reinforcement is just the default infill. pic looks like it isn't the default 40% infill but more like 5%. usually you just make the parts big enough and don't care much about stuff like strength, rigidity and so on... and if it breaks you print a second stronger one... until it no longer breaks

>> No.669530

>>669521
that cheap resin will be the same price as the 3d print, except the additional work you have to put in... and the mess. oh and you pay for the bench router and the mold material and for the sand paper...

sure it is stronger in the end but first you will have to make prototypes anyway --- for which you can either
a) do your method over and over and waste lots of time and material
or
b) use a 3d printer and just let the printer do the work, then if it does what you want make molds out of the 3d printed parts for mass production.


and the one thing that you can make with a reprap and not with your method is: gather experience for working in a big corporation that requires skills in that field.
no seriously... just make your high precision parts with ape hands of your own and let us make them -- less 5 year old child like

>> No.669532

>>666594
>>666595
just build your own filament extruder if you want it cheap stuff... once you have that you can extend it to a full blown recycler and just recycle all your ABS/PLA be it from prints or from LEGOs or other /toy/s

>> No.669678

>>669521
>name one thing

Raspberry pi case for robosapien.
Pan/tilt camera case for robosapien with integrated servo mounts and mount for 2" LCD face.
Replacement robosapien leg shells with mounts integrated for sharp ir rangefinder.

>> No.669961

>>669532
And how?

>> No.670014

>>669961
Boku no google

>http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-3d-printing-filament-factory-Filame/

>http://deltaprinter.co.za/filamentextruder/index.html

>http://hackaday.com/2013/03/05/finally-a-machine-that-makes-cheap-3d-printer-filament/

>> No.670274

so i just bought this kit
http://www.ultibots.com/mini-kossel-v-slot-3d-printer-beta/
how much pain am i in for?

>> No.670364

>>670274
much. see that picture with the owl there? the top parts of the ears are printed erroneously... may be lack of active cooling or something else

>> No.670368

>>670364
I think someone in ths thread mentioned problematic cooling for deltas because the head needs to be lightwieght and ballanced.

Never seen such thermal problems on a print that big.

>> No.671290

Figured this thread would be the best place to ask this.
I'm starting to gain interest in 3d printing, I'm figuring after doing more research than what I have already, I will make the jump.
Just looking for some input and thoughts right now.
Already ordered a few different 3d modeling books and such so I can spend time learning that stage of it before I do the full leap forward to it.
But wondering what you guys think about these different printers:
Printrbot (simple or metal)
Solidoodle 3
makerbot i3v
any flashforge
mini kossel

ideally I would like it to be able to print both abs and pla, but modding it to do so doesn't bother me ( am willing to learn how to do it and well spend the research hours in how to do such things), fair as print size I haven't printed anything but I think at least 6inch^3 is a good starting point. Not looking to have this be a business or expecting plug and play printing perfection I am imagining 1-4 days of playing with it to get it to print well. Not looking to fund a kickstart; budget 1200 max budget.

>> No.671306

>>671290
I suggest looking at smaler companies and contacting their customer support from a fake E-mail.
Bigger companies often take their time or don't answer at all.
Makerbot hate is obligatory at this point.

>> No.671328
File: 15 KB, 310x212, clarkson.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
671328

>>654975
>>655808

>> No.671428

>>671306
Sounds like a pretty good idea, thx for the tip

>> No.672751
File: 817 KB, 3200x1824, IMG_20140723_002729.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
672751

>>671290
I have a solidoodle 2 and after you get it level (and get a piece of glass cut to go over the plate) it's pretty good. I'm going to make my own case which will make it the same as the 3. I had a hard time printing pla as it kept jamming.

Picture is a stand for my a2 desktop speakers

>> No.672818

>>652462
>>60k RPM Vacuum-Powered Rotary Tool that sucks up dust as you work.
>http://hackaday.com/2013/06/11/60000-rpm-vacuum-powered-rotary-tool-was-3d-printed/
>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:76369
I keep coming back to this thing,,,,

1. I tend to doubt it's really turning at 60K, that's VERY fast for cheap bearings and thermoplastic parts that aren't very high strength
2. Even if it did turn that fast under no load, it seems to slow way down in use. It's got no torque.
......however.......
3. What I DO like the idea of, is making a shroud for an ordinary Dremel tool that you can hook to a vacuum cleaner, to suck up the dust from whatever it is grinding on.

>> No.672931

>>669518

>mfw I just said the same thing to my GF when I seen that pic.

>> No.672956

>>672818
>shroud for an ordinary Dremel
I scrolled all the way down here just to see you already typed what I was going to type. A vacuum shroud that screws onto the standard Dremel head would be pretty handy. That thing in the OP looks like a hoax.

Even if it really did turn at 60k, a vacuum can't provide enough torque to be useful.

>> No.673593

>>653061
copying this post onto a notepad so I can steal all of your ideas

>> No.674144

>>672956
Rough in-my-head math:
>Maximum possible pressure differential when dealing with a vacuum on atmospheric is about 14psi.
>spread around maybe 2 square inches of rotor surface, that's 28 pounds.
>cut that in half for the generous theoretical estimate from before and efficiency losses.
>roughly 14 lbs applied at maybe 1/2 inch from axis = .583ish ft.lbs..
Yeah, not much torque at all.

>> No.674737
File: 114 KB, 500x500, ps3_cont_custom_crystal_clear_1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
674737

I had a crazy idea today.

What if you could buy the electronics and other finicky hardware parts necessary for building a Playstation- or Xbox-controller on the internet, then have them mailed to you while you use your 3D printer to print out the plastic outside parts that you only have to insert the electronics into?

Pic related, sort of.

>> No.674738

>>674737
Without surface finish it would be verry hard to clean. otherwise it could turn out fine. I alread toyed with the Idea of makin something similar but didn't follow trough.

>> No.674756

>>674738
You could just do an acetone steaming process, i.e. hang it into a large jar with a bit of acetone at the bottom. It gets buttery smooth that way.

>> No.675385
File: 363 KB, 1600x1200, printer progress day 3_rotated.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
675385

>tfw building a mini kossel
black extrusions and yellow parts is the best

>> No.675394
File: 363 KB, 1200x1600, printer progress day 3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
675394

>>675385
time for the non rotated one

>> No.675396

>>674756
Anyone tried a Plasti-dip like finishing process with PLA or PVC?

>> No.675882

>>675385
>>675394
>get stuck during assembly because need some tools
there's some stuff i can technically do without the tools but then i run into stuff where i DO need the tools
>"ugh"

>> No.676143
File: 143 KB, 1427x922, openscad.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
676143

Not really 'practical for everyday use' but I'm making a watergun shell using entirely 3D printed parts that a pump and pipe will fit into.

>> No.676343

>>676143
3D printing would have come in handy when i broke off the backpack connector to the bad ass gun i has a kid.
fuck, i miss childhood

>> No.676360

Would you guys consider dollhouse/general toy stuff practical? I'm good with the whole 2D designing, but I have no fucking idea what I'm doing as far as 3D goes. If I ever got around to making models, would you guys be interested in stuff for 1/6 to 1/3 doll scale?

>> No.677070

>go to makerbot store in NYC while on a trip there
>get some translucent blue PLA
>he brings out the spool, its the wrong diameter spool (wont fit on top of my kossel) so i change colors to translucent orange to get the right spool diameter
>lug it around with me the rest of the day
>get home
>check the label
>1.75mm
>i meant to get 3mm and totally forgot to mention it
>i only have a 3mm j-head
FUCK!

>> No.677136

>>677070
Oh. Lets have a 3mm vs 1.75mm fight.
I prefer 1.75mm because of smaler extrusion force.

>> No.677183

>>662541
it takes 3-6 months here for a shower head to get dirty, about 5 years for it to get to a "replace that within the next year will ya" phase...

i dont know what 3rd world hell hold you live in, but where i live the water isnt shot.

>> No.677186

>>653550
a long time, but they also stagnated because they were for big business use only.

the average consumer gets their hands on it and we have fucking printable bronze filament, wood filament, and they are looking into making it more structurally sound materials.

yea, i would still call this early stages.
the tech may be old, but once consumers got it, it started to really get developed, not just this "ok, you got your portotype, now lets throw it away and make the real one" we are getting to the point where we make the real ones.

>> No.677193

>>655808
hard... no
my keyboard has 79 keys.
makeing a single switch... not that hard...

makeing 79
soldering them all
makeing sure they are all about the same quality
...
that would be a motherfucker.


-----------------

that said, anyone know the developments of the rasbery pi 3d printers? i know there were 2 projects working with it.

i would rather work with a cheaper pi that is a full computer than work with a printer board that needs another 200$ to be autonomous.

>> No.677296

>>677193
>needs another 200$
Fot that price I bought a RAMPS 1.4 complete kit including Arduino Mega, RAMPS1.4, 5 A4988's with heatinks, 3 Hall endstops, SD adaper, LCD control and SD card. Even the fucking wires where included.

I realy don't know what your Problem is.

>> No.677503

>>677070
>turns out they dont event sell 3mm filament
FUCK!