/diy/ - Do It Yourself

did you drill a pilot hole for the pins before you drilled the final holes?

Nice bevel shaping and design, looks like it'd be a nice fruit knife

>>486896
Thanks. The handle actually feels really nice to hold and makes it easy to angle the knife around. My cheap store bought knives have handles that are way too small for my hands.

>did you drill a pilot hole for the pins before you drilled the final holes?

I used what ever tiny bit I had for a pilot hole, not sure the size. It had lots of trouble getting through the metal too. I really think I just underestimated how hard the blade metal is for the type of drill bits I was using (brand new, all-purpose wood/metal bits). Next time I'll be using bits for hardened metals and let things cool between trying to press down with the drill press.

>>486904
Maybe drill the holes before you harden the blade then, or use a diamond burr to make the holes if you have money for one

>>486913
I'm stock removing from already hardened metal. Since I keep the metal cool through the entire process, it does not need to be hardened or tempered again.

>>486915
looks like the diamond burr is the way to go then...

Diamond burr to cut steel
abrasives to cut holes in steel. Lolwut

you probably just needed a better drill bit. Most of the drill packs at the big box stores aren't going to he good enough. You want high speed steel ir tool steel. Not titanium. Titanium is marketing shit.

a drill press would also help a ton.

>>486928
>you probably just needed a better drill bit

That is what I was thinking. I'll probably go with cobalt.

>a drill press would also help a ton.

That is what I was using.

>>486928
derpppppp ignore me. I thought he said he had problems drilling the holes.

if you are hand-drilling small (1.5-3mm) holes, and having trouble, here's a tip for you: break the bit.

really.

break it as short as possible (if the steel is 5mm thick, break it so only 7mm will protrude from the drill.)
then resharpen it, obviously.

what that'll do is, because its much shorter, you can line it up in the drill, and put much more pressure on it than you could a normal length bit. a small bit needs a much faster rotational speed than a large bit, so combine more pressure with a bit more speed, and it'll go through much easier without the risk of breakage if you're slightly off-square.

that, and of course, the simple fact that a pillar drill is a fantastic investment when you can get one.

>>486942
...I just use my drill press. You can press down so hard that you can stop the drill if you really want to, not that you should, just saying.

The problem here is incorrect drill bit for the job.

>>486946
>...I just use my drill press

and failed to read the "if you are hand-drilling" bit.

if you've got a press, then obviously, that's the answer.

>>486948
you failed to read the thread

I started making this pretty generic knife knife today

>>487051
Generic, but still nice. What kind of stock is it made from?

>>486928
The "titanium" they are referring to is typically TiNi coatings. It's just that, a coating, and is actually beneficial for steel. Though for this shit, it's not likely to really make a huge difference to you. It's still HSS underneath.

Anyway, what's likely happening is that the OP is running the drill at too fast of an RPM. In general, the harder it is, the lower the speed has to be. For 7/32, I'd try around 900 rpm and a moderate amount of feed. Spray bottle some coolant (likely just water) as much as you feel like.

A fancier drill like cobalt or carbide may help. But for just one drill hole, HSS should be theoretically more than enough.

>>487222
>Anyway, what's likely happening is that the OP is running the drill at too fast of an RPM.

The drill press is set to the lowest RPM actually. I can't use a coolant for drilling because it'll screw up the wooden handle, but I did use a small amount of lubricant, mineral oil.

>>487051
nice

You're supposed to use a drill bit designed for drilling through metal, not just any old drill bit.

>>487936
Just any old drill bit is designed to drill through metal. That is why they are listed as wood/metal drill bits.

It is just hardened tool steel is different than regular metal. Try reading the thread next time.

>>487944
>Just any old drill bit is designed to drill through metal.

>>487947
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit

>The most common twist drill bit (sold in general hardware stores) has a point angle of 118 degrees, acceptable for use in wood, metal, plastic, and most other materials, although it does not perform as well as using the optimum angle for each material. In most materials it does not tend to wander or dig in.

>metal

>>486863
>It is for fruit and vegetables
Looks like it would be perfect for fish.

>>486863
>The bit really didn't want to go through the metal
Use a punch to start the hole, a titanium coated bit, and plenty of cutting oil. A drillpress is optimal.

So, is anyone else going to post the fucking knives they made are all you fucks going to keep jerking each other off with methods to drill through tool steel?

>>487051
Not bad, what kind of metal and how long is it?

>>486863
OP here.

I just wanted to add that this knife is now my favorite knife. It glides right through everything so easily it is amazing.

>>489222
... he said, typing with his one remaining hand.

This is so easy I decided to make a second knife. This one has a sycamore handle and the one in the OP has a cherry handle. I got a HSS bit, (titanium, because they didn't have cobalt in 7/32") and it turned out to be FAR WORSE than using the other bit. Plus, it says 7/32" but it is LARGER than the other bit I was using. So, I had to mash the copper pins a little flatter so they'd wedge in properly and hole. It makes it look like crap but it works.

>>489349
Naw.

I'm really surprised more /diy/ers don't make knives from old saws.

>>489722
Where would one get a hold of a lot of used saws then?

>>489722
I'm pretty sure we do but then we get into a bunch of "muh shitty tool steel" and "muh good old days" arguments.

>>489747
Wood working shops, construction sites/companies, saw mills, yard/garage sales, thrift/antique shops, etc.

>>489805
Not trying is worse.

>>487951
Have you ever been to an actual hardware store? How can a wikipedia article speak for every store?

*continued laughter*

>>489722
I've never used a dremel before. How many cutting disks did you sacrifice to make that knife?

>>487951
I'll agree with this. A standard drill bit is serviceable for most materials, but good at none.

and knives we've made? Hokay

>>489827
and another

>>489832
The blade isn't even connected to the handle, lol!

>>489819
2, if I recall correctly. The first one was a bit used and it actually broke partway through, though there wasn't much left of it by then. The discs are like $1.79 each. I only cooled the metal when cutting out the blade section. Had I cooled the metal for the entire project I could have used just one disc.

>>489834
I'm sure it'll be forged to it later.

>>489818
It seems like common sense to me. Most drill bits in hardware stores are for plastic, wood, and metal all combined.

>>489851
You're absolutely right. The handle is made out of three separate pieces of 12mm square stock that's being welded into one solid mass, which is then going to be shaped to fit my hand, and then finally welded to the blade. The blade is separate to the handle for ease of forging/stock removal, but when it comes to the final sharpening it will be one solid piece.

Pretty sure this used to be an old rusty meat cleaver, but now i just use it inawoods.

Oh captcha, you so funny: an sketchyBuild

>>489882
Kind of reminds me of the old knife I was given for survival training. It looked like it'd seen action in Vietnam, got captured, and was finally rescued 20 years later and wrote a best selling book about its captivity.

>>489957
It was my grandpa's, and I remember him saying something about cutting tires at a junkyard with it. I haven't sharpened it in about two years, but still cuts through shit like butter. Good steel.

>>489882
10/10 would operate with in coming chimpout

With a couple more days and a lot of filing, it'll be ready for the next step (I have no powertools other than a drill), been using a POS hacksaw I wound on the street, bought a couple extra blades and set to work, hence the shit tier cutting.
Such is the poorfag Brooklyn life

>>489882
>>489967
Is me.

I've been collecting railroad spikes to turn into tomahawk heads and kukri knives like>>489827
but can't seem to find free time to forge them.

>>489722
Saved. I have 30 or so old saw blades in a crate, saving them for something, and now I know what!

>>489972
Ha, not to worried about the roody-poos in my hood (Apex NC, it's outside of Raleigh). But in saying that, I do have the mossberg loading with 00, so I guess I'm a little wary. The shit on craigslist rants-and-raves is rustling me a bit. All the blacks seem to think Zimm is a white dude when he's Latino/white.
Ah well, such is life in the zone

>>490008
You seem like a good stalker, I drink to you comrade, may you find many artifacts on your expeditions.

>>489972
>chimpout
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=YersIyzsOpc

>I have no powertools other than a drill

You can still get a thin cutting disc and some big sanding drums for it.

>>489967
Needs sharpening. It'll turn it into a new tool for you, like breathing new life into it.

>>490008
>Saved

There's tons of cool knives you can make from them,

http://www.ehow.com/how_7412084_make-basic-knife.html

I think I'd like to make a wood carving set.

>>490031
I'm going to use powertools with the next knife I make (other part of the steel I got is 11inches) But for this one I want to pour my blood (literally, I've sliced open my arm on the edge twice now) sweat and tears into it, manual tools all the way.
I know it's not the most logical method, but fuck logic, this is America, I can do what I want.

most of the knives in this thread have been truly hideous to look at, but I do suspect I'm going to have to try to get hold of a saw and see if I can use it for making a nice leatherworking half-moon knife. Perfect size for that.

>>490020
And here's to you comrade, may your aim be true. And yes, I do drink out of this. Took a lot of effort to get the cosmoline out of it. Vodka never tasted sweeter.

>>490031
Great link man, thanks!

>>490038
ever post it before? I remember someone posted an image of the oil can and said they drank out of it.
My god, that operator beard

Other than what you've inherited/made, got a favorite

>>490040
*favorite knife

>>490040
Never posted before (been b& the past year due to some jackoff using my wifi to post cp on /b/. I mean really, wtf? Got new tv/internet provider so new ip).
I thought I had seen someone drink out of one once on /k/, so if they could so should I.
I've got tons of DIY shit out in the shop (spud-guns, hover crafts, zipguns, some sort of sailboat platform thing that I nearly drowned at sea on, so it's a wonder I've never used this board before. I think I have some pictures on a flash stick somewhere...

oh, and the beard has to go soon, I'll be in the Air Force reserve by the 21st. feels bad man in a good way

>>490052
>Never posted before (been b& the past year due to some jackoff using my wifi to post cp on /b/.

Just admit it was you who posted the CP. Your beard makes it obvious.

>>490090
>>490052
>adding extra drama info to /diy/ posts

>>490090
I'm pretty sure it was my neighbor's weird son. Scrawny and shifty-eyed, I don't let him on the property because the last time he was on it he shot one of my finches. There's also a registered sex offender living close by, so maybe he did it from his phone .
I've got 3 things i hate above all else,

1.Stripped screw heads
2.Pedos
3.That one stray dog that pisses on my tires.

I like my girls fit and long-legged, they must also know how to drive stick.

>>490092
Holy shit I laughed to hard at that and woke up the dog. I do type to much in posts, comes from trying to be an author.

Some knife notes:

*Mora are cheap and hardened around Rockwell 60, thus hold an edge better than most knives which are about 52 to 55. Get the 1095 carbon rather than the stainless since 1% carbon steel takes a finer edge than stainless.

*Drawfiling is a preferred method for creating a bevel. Do not run a file backwards since that wears it out fast.

*The DMT XXC whetstone is expensive but quickly grinds a bevel.

*The little $40 belt sander at Harbor Freight is favored for sharpening. People who buy it tend to sharpen every knife and garden tool they have in one sitting. Note it runs fast; you can add a router speed controller if you want.

*The common sharpening abrasives are silicon carbide, aluminum oxide, diamond, and zirconium. SC grinds fast but also wears out fast. AO is better for the fine edge stage at 300 grit and up, though ceramic sanding belts from 3M seem to be hardened AO and cut well. Diamond is fastest but most expensive. Zirconium sanding belts around 60 grit grind well and last a while.

*Links: bladeforums.com and knifeforums.com

*Cutting steel: preferred method is metal-cutting bandsaw, but they're expensive. Also hacksaw, Dremel or angle grinder with cut off wheel or diamond wheel, jigsaw with good metal-cutting blade (special techniques to that), drill series of holes then break the steel, learn how to temper 1095 steel and work it while it's soft, bench grinder to nibble away steel.

Some knife notes:

*Most knives are tempered around Rockwell 52 to 55, soft enough to sharpen easily yet hold an edge long enough to get some work done. You can sharpen a harder steel (Rockwell 60 to 65) if you get good diamond whetstones; the reward is a much sharper edge for a longer time. Japanese knives tend to be very hard. Hitachi blue steel is one type you can look for.

*Drawfiling is a preferred method for creating a bevel. Do not run a file backwards since that wears it out fast.

*The DMT XXC whetstone is expensive but quickly grinds a bevel.

*The little $40 belt sander at Harbor Freight is favored for sharpening. People who buy it tend to sharpen every knife and garden tool they have in one sitting. Note it runs fast; you can add a router speed controller if you want.

*The common sharpening abrasives are silicon carbide, aluminum oxide, diamond, and zirconium. SC grinds fast but also wears out fast. AO is better for the fine edge stage at 300 grit and up, though ceramic sanding belts from 3M seem to be hardened AO and cut well. Diamond is fastest but most expensive. Zirconium sanding belts around 60 grit grind well and last a while.

*Cutting steel: preferred method is metal-cutting bandsaw, but they're expensive. Also hacksaw, Dremel or angle grinder with cut off wheel or diamond wheel, jigsaw with good metal-cutting blade (special techniques to that), drill series of holes then break the steel, learn how to temper 1095 steel and work it while it's soft, and bench grinder to nibble away steel.

i have run out of old tool steel (stuff from saw blades and an old truck spring) which i have been using for the last year or so. i am considering ordering some 1095 from that newjersey guy, but before i do, i decided i would try my hand at making a knife out of a file.

first, i anneal my tool steel in my firepit by tossing them in a fire and then letting them sit overnight in the pile of ashes. i do not touch them for at least 24 hours, allowing the steel to cool. now the tool steel is softened and easier to use.

note the port i made in the side of my fire pit. i will use this later to run a steel tube (connected to an electric blower) into the center of the fire, turning the fire pit into a forge. i will use this to re-harden the steel once i have the silhouette and the bevel of the knife cut and ground into the steel.

>>490199

here is a file that i have annealed. if you look closely, you can see the shape of the knife i want which i have sketched out on the metal with a sharpie. later, probably today, i will use an angle grinder to cut the silhouette out, and then rig up a jig to grind the bevel with the belt sander. i use 80 grit sandpaper to do this. after the bevel is ground, i will begin to sand every side of the blade, attempting to remove as much of the file "rasp" as i can. i will probably leave some along the upper parts of the bevel so that you can still see a bit of the file, showing just what the knife is made of. the rest of the blade will be sanded down to bare shiny metal so that the working portions of the knife are smooth.

>>490205

here is a blank i have formed out of a much smaller file than the post above. i have cut the finger guard, the silhouette, and the handle. i have marked the ricasso with a sharpie so that i can keep a straight bevel that matches up on both sides of the blade.

this is as far as i have gotten on this batch of knives as i only started this set on thursday night. i will probably work on them over the course of this week as time allows. i will post more as i go along.

please note, i will not be using that size of a drill bit to drill the handle holes or the pommel hole. i use cobalt 1/4 inch carbide drill bits for steel. a while ago, i discovered that particular size drill bit almost perfectly fits the stainless steel i will be using for the pins. i use those long tubes of welding steel or brass that you can find at almost every home depot in their welding stock section.

>>490199
>>490205
>>490210

i do not consider this sort of annealing/cutting/grinding/hardening process to be "forging" in the truest sense of the word. eventually, i will have to use a forge, but only to re-harden the steel.

for this batch, i wont be dragging the anvil out and beating a shape into the metal. just using a plain old angle grinder with a cutting disc. pic related...forging from billets can be fun, but for the most part, its sniffing glue.

Anyone have a general idea of what type of steel is used for most old saw blades, circular or crosscut?

>>490210
>>490205
>>490199
Nice. I've been meaning to try making a camping knife from an old file for some time now.

>>490172
Good info.

>>490240

most older tools are 1085 or 1085c high carbon steels.

The knife I made. Tool steel, leather with wood bracers underneath and an Elk antler handle.

>>490268
Ah, okay, thank you.

>>490272
Nice. I have a box of deer antlers I need to start using.

I made this patch knife from an old file.

This was ground from a file also.

>>490305
>>490306
I detect a theme. Nice. lol

>>489400
OP, how do you grind your bevels? With a file?

This thread is inspiring I have a cool field dressing kit that belonged to my grandfather, a hatchet/knife combo that has broken handles. I have a box of antlers he collected from hunting trips but I don't know what to do.

what sites or infographs can you guys reccomend

>>490630
Bench belt sander with 80grit and by hand with 320grit sand paper. It only takes a little bit to do everything needed with the blade.

>>490659

i would say http://iforgeiron.com/ but they are currently fighting a DMCA, so they are offline for a while.

there are literally a billion other sites you can google for as well. things like "home made knife instructions" and other similar searches.

i would also recommend "Wayne Goddard's 50 dollar knife shop" if only for the basic knowledge the book has concerning steel, forging, the parts of a knife, and all the other little things that most people do not consider when they are first starting out.

this is another good book: http://www.amazon.com/The-Complete-Bladesmith-Forging-Perfection/dp/1581606338

there is a lot of info about stock removal as opposed to straight forging. also, i think it is available on pb if you dont want to pay for it.

>working on small blade for wood carving
>everything going great
>try to drill through the handle metal with a titanium metal bit in a drill press
>using thread cutting oil (mineral oil)
>not going well
>press a little harder
>see some shavings appear
>maintain pressure, nothing happens
>press a little harder
*SNAP*
>blade broke
>look at end of drill bit
>it is all ground right off and super dull, the metal shavings were actually part of the drill bit

Seriously, fuck these shitty drill bits that don't fucking work.

Would someone please, someone post a photo and information about a drill bit I can buy/order that will drill through hardened steel?

>>491958
You'd probably be better off annealing the piece, work it to shape however you like, then heat treating it to harden.

>>491963
Handles don't really need hardened since they don't need to hold an edge.

>>491965
True, but I meant to refer to the entire piece being shaped and there's going to be some hardening of the entire piece just about no matter what. More so if you do it in an oven or if it's a small blade.

This as opposed to watching grinder wheels and bits disappear to make a (likely) shitty knife from $3 of steel.

I suppose, for the sake of clarity, I'm also assuming that what's being discussed here is the tang and not the actual handle, which is typically a separate piece of material.

>>491958
8% Cobalt, 135 Degree, Split Point Tip, Drill Bit.

Use lots of cutting oil, low RPMs, and moderate pressure.

i just use kobalt (the brand name, not the element) 1/4 inch carbide drill bits. pic related.

http://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-5-pack-Black-Oxide-Twist/dp/B004LOVX34

they are cheap but it takes a good long while to wear one out. i have never used oil, spit, or water on the steel or the drill press and over the years ive made close to 100 blanks and perhaps 30 or so completed blades and i have never snapped a blank.

the trick is to turn tool steel into soft steel and then back into hardened steel.

why are people not annealing their steel? why are people so opposed to re-hardening steel after they complete work on their blanks? seriously, a forge is as easy as sticking a metal tube into a blow dryer and then burying the contraption in a bed of coals in the back yard.

i can understand not wanting to do all this if you live in the city in an apartment, but if you have access to any sort of garage and yard (perhaps at your parents house), you should probably be annealing before stock removal. its just too simple not to do.

>>492129
You can anneal with a blow torch, but for the shank/tang you don't need to reharden it. Moderately annealing it can actually increase its life span, preventing sudden sheer breakage. For the actual blade, I've found that there's no need to anneal it. My grinding wheels and bench sander do really well removing stock and I barely use up belts. I've been using the same bench grinder wheel for 5-6 years now. The trick for that is to keep things cool with water while you remove the stock.

>>492129

You realize that anneal means to soften? Why would you want to soften your bits?

>>492854
>You realize that anneal means to soften? Why would you want to soften your bits?

Yes. you regularly throw the drill bits into the forge to anneal them to drill through a hardened blade.

or could he infact mean put the hardened blade into a forge to anneal it, to drill through it with the hardened bit?

Hrm. I wonder....

>>492854

quick bump

OP here.

I had to order a new drill bit. The same as described here >>491972 and it is effing amazing. It drills right through that metal like it was wood without any problems at all.

I made another knife, one for carving. However, I made other mistakes this time I normally don't make, probably because I was overheated, tired, and not thinking straight. So, the second pin I was installing went crooked and busted out the wood as I was hammering it in. I also had a blade break while cutting the handle and had to jerry rig something to finish it and it looks worse than ever. lol

Well, at least the blade is attached solidly in the handle. That's all I ask. I just need to sand up the blade a bit and sharpen it, hone it, and maybe take some of the tool marks out of the handle if I feel like it.

The steel came from an old circular saw blade.

might as well bump this with a little 9th C seax that was mostly stock removed.

based off an original one in the Museum of London.

>>494791
I like it. How do you fit the tang into the handle?

>>494796
what tang...?

no, only joking.

its a tapering tang, about 2 1/2 - 3 inches long (so about an inch shorter than the handle), the block of applewood was drilled with a long reach bit, narrower than the thickness of the tang, with two holes, then a 3rd hole in between till it broke through into the others, at which point the webs of thin wood left were filed away. then the corners filed out witha narrow square file, then an exact copy of the tang done in steel 1mm thinner was heated to red hot, and pressed into the slot, which burns it out. whole thing was then cleaned up with the file, that removes the charred bits. then bonded into place with an epoxy resin. back then they'd have used a cutlers resin (pine pitch, beeswax, and sawdust), but I think I can get away with a moden resin for security.

>>494891
Interesting. Thank you for the ideas and methods.

When you drilled the holes, how were they lined up with the drill bit, I mean did you do it all freehanded or in a vice with a bench press, or...? I foresee me trying it and getting it really slanted the wrong way and everything. lol

Second knife I've ever made, I think it turned out alright. Next time going to try with some better steel and take a bit more time.

>>494911
all freehand, though I cheated and used an electric drill rather than a hand drill. I could've used the pillar drill with far more accuracy, but I couldnt be arsed with moving the table down enough to fit the block in, when 20 seconds with a hand drill was accurate enough. Applewood is quite soft for a fruitwood, so it was'nt difficult to drill and keep it all straight - plus it was on a large block of wood, so I hd some space to work the wood to line up the blade, if needed.

if I were using something seriously tough, like boxwood or something where you use the smallest billet possible like ebony, then I would've certainly used the pillar drill and lined up the angles carefully to ensure a minimum of cutting, and to ensure the hole burnt out was an exact fit.

I hate all of you, ALL OF YOU.

I am lucky enough to work in a welding shop, where we have 2 waterjet machines, i can cut all kind of shapes there, we cut all kinds of materials, from neoprene, Stainless, brass, bronze, to some exotic stuff like inconel, hastelloy etc. we got tons of scrap metal, literally, is something like 20 tons at month.

I can not get a single cut for myself, i can not cut a single piece of metal, all i can think is. "Damn, i could make some sick knifes, machetes, swords, axes, everything here" but i can not, and everyday i comeback to my apartment where I do not have a single tool to do shit.

I lied, i love you all, this thread is amazing.

>>495026
That helps a lot, thanks.

>>495042
Oh man, I feel so sorry for you. You've never talked to your boss about getting some time with some of the machines for personal use?

>>495042
I'd certainly schmooze all I could to get some time on a cutter like that. Then I'd run to the nearest antique store and buy up all their old cross cut saws and large sawmill circular saws in bulk prices, lay out patterns to get all the metal used up, and get them all cut.

I'd be swimming in knife blanks every time.

>>495052
>>495067

Sad thing I am the boss, of that area at least, I could ask the engineers to draw me any knife and get the operator to do it, and i could walk with it without the guards stopping me for getting things out of the company, or i could make everything my self and sneak out, but I am too fucking honest, i need to give the example to the rest, i can get there late everyday and leave early, but i like to be the first one arriving, and leave late. Fuck, if one of my workers asked me for this I would probably allow it and make the right paperwork to do it. But for myself, never.

>>495098
Despite this stinging away, I feel you should be commended.
You good noodle, you.

Do it officially, tell whoever is in charge that you want hands-on experience with different processes in order to improve your ability to manage and that you will provide materials and convince the operators to teach you proper techniques off the clock.

>>495101
Read
>>495098

>>495098
>Fuck, if one of my workers asked me for this I would probably allow it and make the right paperwork to do it. But for myself, never.

If paperwork exists then why not use it? Also, are these machines only used to make replacement parts for things the company owns or do they actually make a business where they make shit for customers? If they make and sell stuff via orders then order up some knives.

>>494957
Not bad, what kind of metal is it?

infobump here.

i cannot stress just how great swap meets, flea markets, and small town festivals are. last weekend, the local "steam thresher society" had a huge meet on the county fair grounds. all sorts of vendors were there, selling everything from old dishes and clothes to old tools. i found a booth where some guy was selling what looked like the remains of an old barn's tool set. the guy had old steam powered saws and their blades, rusted iron spikes, and about a thousand different kinds of files. he had wood rasps, angled files, rounded files, and something that looked like a cross between a crowbar and a bastard file. i would have bought it but it was almost half an inch thick and that is way to thick for my purposes.

anyways, i managed to get 14 mill bastard files of various sizes and thicknesses all for 7 bucks. i am gonna be busy with these for at least the rest of the summer.

>>496005
>swap meets, flea markets, and small town festivals are.

Oh yes. There's so much junk metal at those places. I always bring a truck just in case of a big haul. Those people love bulk buyers too.

im praying for 24 hours with no rain. i put the files into the fire around 6pm tonight and i am hoping for some nice, dry weather for at least until 3pm tomorrow.

>>496005
>>496056
fuu, fucking flea markets here is just trash, overpriced trash, chinese ripoffs, and wal mart stolen shit.

>>495573
I cut the blade out of a cheap machete I bought at a local hardware store for $2.50, it's thin and can't hold an edge but it was just a practice knife so the metal didn't matter much to me. I'm not going to do any more work on that knife, instead buy some old saw blades and start a fresh on a new one. I really like the way the knife feels so I think I'll use the same template, but with the thicker steel the tip shouldn't come off on the belt sander.

after annealing the blades >>496005 in my firepit >>496324 the files were really bent up from the heat of the fire. this is the worst i have ever seen such warping. it is probably due to the fact that i attempted to anneal 14 files at once.

after work today, i spent a good hour with a sledge hammer and my vise, trying to straighten the particular file i decided to cut.

pic related. it is an annealed file next to a finished silhouette (that needs some more finishing, actually).

>>496996

for the silhouette, i decided i am going to go with a plain bushcraft style with a large ricasso and choil. for the handle, i am going to go with a skeletonized handle and then smooth out everything with sandpaper. by the time i am finished with both the finger guard and the handle, everything will be buttery smooth. i have already started on the finger guard and i like how it feels.

tomorrow: cutting out the skeleton of the handle and then adding the bevel. after that, it is a matter of sanding the hell out of things.

>>496331

sorry to hear that. perhaps try flea markets (and other places like that) further out in the country? the type of flea market you mention...i know what you are talking about: full of mall ninja shit, stolen speakers from 1994, and bootleg dvds.

try farm sales and stuff like that.

>>497007
Oh dammit, meant to start new thread. Now I need a new pic related...

Hi diy,

I do a lot of multi-day ski expeditions in the winter (not pic related, that's nordic xc) and I have a crazy carpet I want to turn into a pulk (pic related.) I'm having trouble finding a way to get the front shaped the way I'd like. If you just pull the front up and fold it back, the pulk acts like a knife blade when dealing with deeper snow. What I'd like is to have the front slope up, so it compacts the snow as it's pulled.

Any thoughts?

>>497008
You can delete your own post by putting a check in the check box near your post's subject title then scrolling to the bottom of the page and clicking on the "delete" button. You have to do it before your IP address changes though.

Hello /diy/,

Nearly finished with my first knife, made from an old 10" table-saw blade. Handles are palletwood (oak) with a coat of boiled linseed oil. Going to put 1 or 2 more coats on it later.

I have learned:

1) No need to divot the brass rod used to secure the handles, it will mushroom well enough on its own.

2) Put a primary grind on the blade after annealing and before hardening and tempering. Otherwise grinding is going to take awhile and runs the risk of overheating the blade.

3) Do not be afraid of screw-ups, its a learning experience.

>>497950
Nice, I like the grain of the wood and general shape of the handle.

>>497950

>>3) Do not be afraid of screw-ups, its a learning experience.

you're goddamned right on that one. i had my handle skeletonized and ready for the file...about five minutes into filing, pic related happened.

my neighbors thought i was killing my wife when they heard the blue streak i was cussing. later, i took the knife to a local knife shop to see what i could do and all the guys there laughed at me. fucking priceless.

even still, just because of one screw up, i still can do many things with the steel. no need to toss it out. let this be a reminder to people just getting into this sort of craft...shaping your knife, putting a bevel on it, and doing all the little things you like on knives you bought...well, they are just mistakes waiting to happen and you have to stick with it.

>>497950

>> 3) Do not be afraid of screw-ups, its a learning experience.

you're goddamned right on that one. i had my handle skeletonized and ready for the file...about five minutes into filing, pic related happened.

my neighbors thought i was killing my wife when they heard the blue streak i was cussing. later, i took the knife to a local knife shop to see what i could do and all the guys there laughed at me. fucking priceless.

even still, just because of one screw up, i still can do many things with the steel. no need to toss it out. let this be a reminder to people just getting into this sort of craft...shaping your knife, putting a bevel on it, and doing all the little things you like on knives you bought...well, they are just mistakes waiting to happen and you have to stick with it.

>>498037
It is still useable, if you still have that knife. Just make a larger handle of wood, drill holes into the wood to fit those two prongs into and drill for pins up front. You can even rework the blade so it is a little shorter so you can extend the handle up further on the blade.