/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>356060
It's chemistry. You need at least as much jelly (rather the active component) as you have rust, or it will only clean the surface of the rust.

>>356134

this.

glop it on, and keep it covered until it works. also, tell us wtf you are de-rusting; the corner of a little box? or a whole engine block? context, context!

>>356137
this
also steel wool
or fine wire brush

>>356147
Brass or copper. Don't use steel or you'll scratch the fuck out of the part. But if you don't mind that, then yeah, power wire wheel the fuck out of it.

OP HERE:

Trying to clean a metal wire basket. So its hard to get a thick layer of the stuff to stick on without just falling off. Too much work to try to polish the rust off every piece with a dremel.
I dont have any other tool to use.

What do?

Get a cooking pan big enough to put one side of the basket in, but not too large. Put one side of the basket in the pan, and pour the gel in until in covers the wires. Wait until it works. Repeat as many times as the basket has sides.

>>356060
This is the antique bicycle W/basket anon!!!!

Ditch the naval jelly, Its only good for silverware

electrolysis my friend

Muratic acid works much faster than naval jelly.

Buy a $3 jug and dump part of it in a bucket, fill with enough water to submerge the basket, drop the basket in and watch the magic happen.

Avoid the fumes, of course, and rinse the basket thoroughly afterward. Working too slow? Add more. When you're done you can neutralize the bucket of acid with baking soda. You'll need to protect the bare metal pretty much as soon as possible if you do this. The advantage of naval jelly is that it tends to form a nice black coating after it takes off the rust. Muratic acid does no such thing.

>>356060

it's delicious if you add naval peanut butter

ta-dum!

That stuff never works. The only way to get rid of tinworm is to cut out the old metal and weld fresh stuff in.

If you can dunk the part use Evoprorust or a similar product. They are cheap, work and don't require much effort or special shit.

If you plan on doing this kind of stuff often or you already have the shit needed, use electrolysis. A quick google of the relevant search terms and you're on your way. Its the best option, bar none, but is kind of a pain in the ass and can be dangerous if you're a dumb fuck about it.

Otherwise get some WD-40 or Liquid Wrench or some equivalent product and go to town with an abrasive. Make sure the abrasive is weaker that the metal you will be cleaning so you don't scratch the fuck out of it. The courser it is the faster it goes but you gotta be careful you don't fuck something up. Scotch pads are light duty, then brass, then steel.

I was cleaning cast iron the other day and it faced off against steel wire wheels and not a single fuck was given. On the other hand I scratched the shit out of some stainless steal with a brass wire brush because it was cheap shit steel and I'm a dumb fuck sometimes. Just take care and use common sense, if you can find any.

>>356587
Anyone back up this claim? I might give it a go I got a big plastic tub I could use to soak it in.

I'm going to paint it anyway ASAP so it wont rust again.

My only problem is that the water in my hose is pretty sulfer-ey. Florida well water, and it comes out of the hose before it goes through the purifier system. Will that be an issue when it comes to rinse?

>>356587
>Buy a $3 jug and dump part of it in a bucket, fill with enough water to submerge the basket

NEVER add water to acid, always add acid to water. This is a chem 101 safety rule. When you mix water and acid it releases heat energy, greater concentrations = greater energy release = violent boiling = acid splattering all over the place. Adding the water first means you work up from dilute to preferred concentration rather than down, thus avoiding danger.

>>356762
So fill up large bucket mostly with water.
Add acid
Submerge rusty item
Remove 10 minutes later
Wash with hose
Dry in oven

?

We use naval jelly on cars. Put a paper towel on the basket. Saturate it with jelly so it forms to the basket. let it sit and the take off paper towel after a while and check.

>>356762
Yes add acid to water, not vice-versa. Sorry, it was late.

>>356769
This will work. You'll be able to see the acid bubbling up at the rust. If it stops for some reason before all the rust is gone, just add more acid. It won't dissolve the base metal of the basket, just the rust. If there's any aluminum parts attached, though, those will be dissolved too. You could just heat it up with a heat gun instead of baking it. You just want to get the moisture off and get it protected quickly.

The sulfur in your water won't make a difference. Incidentally, muratic acid is great at removing hard water stains, too.

google "molasses rust removal"

you're welcome.