/diy/ - Do It Yourself

She didn't really like her gift this Valentine's Day.

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Just made a seedbox for growing blueberries.

>>2760427
>Is printing a smaller line width than the nozzle diameter a thing?
Yes, but quality will drop as inter-line spacing error grows. You can do it, but I can't think of many reasons to other than weird edge cases like Defextiles.

>>2760492
>Defextiles
entredasting

Someone was asking about scanning in a prior thread; looks like photogrammetry is improving somewhat:
https://youtu.be/dwRMK9LzBBc

>>2760479
**Cough** Ahem

>>2760505
>built one of them
>documentation is crap
>the very camera they recommend prevents pi from booting
>their discord offers no help
>have it sat on a desk for weeks unable to complete it

>>2760527
at least it was cheap, right?

Well at least my printer takes a consistent 50% longer to print than the slicer prediction.

>>2760529
Cheaper than what? I had to buy all the hardware and still don't have a 3d scanner.

>>2760535
Check you gcode, see if commands to set acceleration and jerk are being given to the printer. If they are, then your printer probably has limits set in eprom. Depending on what you're running you'll either need to edit a config file or flash new firmware with your own settings.

>>2760535
Two things:
1. There are machine limits set in the firmware of your machine. This means the printer will not exceed X speed even if the gcode demands it.
2. 3d printer boards are limited in processing power thus limited in the amount of gcode commands they can process per unit time. This is why the high end diy printers use a raspberry pi to process the gcode instead of the printer board itself. Obviously if your printer cannot read the gcode instructions as fast as its required to, it will not go as fast as you've set it.
To fix both these problems, buy a ratrig.

>>2760427
yes it just looks bad

Have any of you guys tried turning plastic bottles into filament? I rarely if ever have plastic bottles (I mostly only drink water and water in my country is safe to drink + I have a filter installed on my sink just in case) but SOMETIMES I get them and when I do it's always several so I thought it would be neat to recycle them myself and enjoy some free filament.

I'm new to printing so as far as I'm aware this might just be a meme or only worthwhile for people in poor countries who can't afford filament.

Also, printing seems to produce a lot of waste (mostly supports/standoffs). Do you guys have any ideas for recycling those? I'm aware you can convert them back into filament but the machinery for that is quite expensive. If it's relevant, I'm only printing with PLA.

>>2760610
You can either dump it in the ground and wait for it to decompose in 100 years, get an expensive machine that MIGHT be able to make it into a spool of filament for you again, or melt it down and make cup coasters.
>>2760608
Sounds like a bad idea.

>>2760610
Quit being a fag and get good at ABS. it's cheap and easy to turn the scraps into usable components.

>>2760638
>People still acting like there is some material skill level treadmill and its not about printing the right material for the right job

>>2760610
You are pathetic.
I think I've printed 2 models out of 100's over the past year that have actually needed supports. You suck at designing parts - by just putting a modicum of thought into your design you can negate the need for supports entirely. On the very rare occasion you do need supports you should design them in yourself to minimise waste.

>>2760650
Why are so many posters on 4chan so antagonistic to basic questions? Are you really that miserable?

>>2760669
>Waaaah after 20 years 4chan is STILL vitriolic as though it were a fundamental part of the culture Waaaah

>>2760677
So the answer is yes, gotcha

>>2760669
There's a few here who hate everything and everyone, but no one more than themselves. Ignore them.

>>2760669
>>2760650
I've made this to help you. And yes, I get overly emotional when people use supports.

>>2760669
You should have skipped taking offense to his post and paid attention to the actual advice he gave you.
>On the very rare occasion you do need supports you should design them in yourself to minimise waste.

>>2760680
I appreciate the dedication anon but slicer supports are really good nowadays actually.
>custom supports
this can easily be painted on in slicer and you're good to go.

haha fan go brrr

>>2760608
if the recycle code is 1 underneath and is labeled "pet" or "PETE" then you can, check this youtuber out.
https://www.youtube.com/c/Function3d

So it turns out that my z-banding may be because my piece of shit ender 3 is still running 219 firmware with a bangbang-controlled hotbed instead of PID, resulting in the bed expanding and contracting. Looks like I will have to finally upgrade it to mainstream Marlin.

>>2760744
s/219/2019/

>>2760608
A filament recycler is usually a chopper or shredder to reduce the maximum size and then an extruder to melt and draw the filament which is then put onto a roll.

You're taking a $400 investment to produce filament vs being able to buy spools at $14/kg. The bottle recycler being memed has the same step except you cut the bottle into a ribbon instead of chopped into small pieces.

To be worth it you need to consider at what price point does making your own filament become economical. Unless your printers are using a spool every weekend, you're probably not going to reach that usage.

>>2760650
I haven't designed any parts, faggot

wtf is happening bros
I switched filaments to an older spool I had sitting around, it's still PLA and the same diameter as previous prints thoughever.
my first layer has never looked this bad

>>2760527
gah
I had the same experience with the Horus when it was a thing. I'd have fucking perfect lighting and the software would still make a clusterfuck pointcloud.
I've been wanting to revisit it with different firmware, but it seems my prior effort:outcome
ratio is still highly demotivating even several years later.

>>2760795
Do you store your spools in an airtight bag with the silica gel you get from new spools? Moisture will degrade all filaments, especially PLA. It takes months for filament to go bad.

>>2760680
if you cant easily read and see all of the infographic detail at 1080p without zooming/panning, then its a shitty graphic

>>2760704
yeah, really

>>2760753
smashing prints enough to get useful recyclable-sized particles is really the hard bit.
I'm starting to think a belt sander is going to be a good move in that direction. Chopping is hard, rapidly abrading is pretty easy.

>>2760795
your nozzle is just too high, sheesh
>tfw printing PLA from 2018 right now

>>2760727
filtering it without losing all your pressure is the hard part, but not filtering and not dumping it outside isnt much better than not sucking it up at all. Probably worse.

>>2760795
If your skirt doesnt look to be the same height as your specified layer height, it's a nozzle height issue.
Try printing a skirt 2 or 3 lines wide and then measuring it.
You can do it after the print completes if its not too bad.
Or you can snip it so it doesnt catch the nozzle and then just rip it up to measure, albeit it wont be as accurate after youve hot-stretched it a bit.
Or you can just cancel the print after the skirt completes, wait 10 minutes and then pull up a solidified skirt to measure.
Generally you should be able to tell if the nozzle level is out of whack by whack by watching the skirt get printed.
I like to do one of these after I bed mesh, for fine tuning nozzle height.

>>2760806
You're better off using a pillowcase and a mallet. The commercial method is a round drum with cheese grater holes and an arm that sweeps the plastic against the inside of the drum.

>>2760799
Might I recommend putting the entire thing into a white box with several lights all over.

As the MagnetoX seems to finally pop up in people's hands, what's the catch on it, besides being pricey? From my own perspective it's pretty much all i wanted, especially the hotend looking looking almost exactly how i would've designed one myself. I am not sure yet, what to think of it's main feature, linear motors, but everything else seems like a great do-it-all machine.

>>2760822
or maybe just a much larger melt pot inlet/reservoir..
fyi: im not a print recycler, but the concept definitely has appeal

>>2760828
yeah, i did.
Ultimately used product photo tent, with all manner of led rings and strips, dimmed, undimmed, I tried everything, on and off for months.
It seemed to work better when the light was extremely dim, maybe becasue the lasers were for contrast, but iirc i ended up getting *anyhting* useful without them.
I tried a huge variety of light and laser/no lazer combinations, on numerous objects, of which the dragon should have been the ideal surface.
This was as good as it got, and the randomness of fails was such that I'm almost certain it was just a case of shit programming... but python pisses me off so i've never grokked it well enough to try fixing someone elses python firmware.

>>2760839
now i remember... the initial calibration panel would fail all the time... and seemed to get worse over time, so it was difficult to even get to the point where i could scan anything else.

>>2760839
Aren’t there neural networks that can do this? Usually I see them being used just by waving a phone camera about, but I wonder if they give better results when on a solid rotary setup with lasers? The advantages of a non-algorithmic setup would be that misalignment and such could be softly taken into account, instead of just throwing your pointcloud into disarray. They could also be more tolerant of reflective surfaces and less than perfect lighting. Maybe even using lighting cues to perceive depth.

t. watched two minute papers videos on the topic a year or two ago

Well
Looks like I actually have to adjust settings because I'm tired of sanding pieces to fit.

>>2760846
Yeah. I'm hoping that things will get resolved in the near future, at the opensource level. The commercial development seems to be moving along nicely with phones now having lidar etc, but it'll need to be FOSS community based before I'll be using it. It would be really sweet if my existing (arduino based) hardware can be re-flashed or cannibalised to get me up and running finally.
I don't even know what I would scan now, but i'm sure a million things will appear once I have a setup that actually works as it should. I'm also sure that almost all of them will be quite small items.

>>2760867
Show us your shizz and describe it's problems

>>2760800
no it's just been sitting on my desk lmao
it's from when I had an Anet A8 years ago, it's still mostly full since I gave up on the Anet a long time ago and only recently got a new printer and got back into things. I just dusted it off and loaded it up since I'd hate to throw away almost an entire spool. I do have a brand new one still sealed.

>>2760816
the print ended up failing (one of the segments came off the bed) so I restarted it and so far it's looking a lot better. once it's done I'll check the bottom.
only thing now is some stringing but it's not appearing to affect the print at all.

>>2760902
That stringing shows the filament is wet as fuck Anon. I had an ender 3 neo (At least that looks like its hot end) and it never strung that bad

>>2760906
well I had to cancel the print anyways after realizing the snout on the octopus' head wouldn't have any support. resliced with supports and started over, it's a 4 hour print now. the filament should still be fine even if it's compromised by moisture right? the incomplete print (just the tentacles) seems to be fine.

>>2760907
Use tree supports and set the support X/Y distance to something higher. Support block the legs if you have to.

>>2760894
Nah, I just turned flow down to 99% amd it fixed itself.

>>2760906
That stringing has happened to me from turning down the speed of my print.

well lads it finished, after trimming all the strings off it looks pretty good. I guess the old filament is fine to continue using after all.

>>2760811
No shit anon! Glad you told me and all others, otherwise we might have just thought dispersing harmful fumes inside the room with a fan would be sufficient. I will obviously vent outside. This fan has zero issues pushing the air through a ø50mm ID 3 meter long semi-flexible tube. I've thought about a HEPA filter but they cost money and I would need to read up on their effectiveness filtering solder fumes.

>>2760984
>I need to disperse the harmful sugarcane plastic fumes

>>2760984
>I will obviously
Given the sheer magnitude of moronic comments made in this/previous threads: nothing can be assumed obvious.

>>2760999
Fucking checked, nice digiggitys. Yeah, okay you do have a point. But be assured, I'm doing this in a good way. I will vent my fumes outside and let the plebs breathe them instead of me. Sharing is caring.

Just got done gluing this mfer together, some pieces warped a little but it's not too bad. Might buy a printing pen at some point and try to fill it in but the glue is still holding just fine. I could also try printing it all in one piece but I'm thinking about scaling each piece way up and making a giant one for shits and gigs.

Has anyone cloned the AMS for generic printers yet? The Prusa MMU approach has proven to be shit (yanking the melt zone out is a terrible idea, and the stupid moving bowden joint instead of a simple multiplexer is absurd) and in terms of hardware and sequencing the AMS is not particularly complex:
- Buy one of the absolute cheapest bowden drive extruders you can find. Does not need precision, power, or heat tolerance, just needs to push a cold filament up <1m of tube
- Filament roller with low power motor. Turn motor on when retracting, turn off when not retracting, let wimpy motor stall out when filament is taut. No need for elegance here, the extruder handles filament movement the spool motor only needs to spin the near-balanced spool to take up slack.
- A handful of cheap filament presence sensors. Optical, microswitch, whatever.
- Filament multiplexer. Buy a cheap Bambu one or print one, it's just a dumb block with x holes on one side an 1 on the other and smooth enough for filament not to get stuck.
- Add filament cutter above hotend entrance. Literally just buy the Bambu spare parts if you're lazy, or hack up something with double-edge razor blades if you're a tryhard
In terms of sequencing
- Pause before starting extrusion
- Run extruder until filament senses in first portion of feed tube, error out if filament not present (i.e. you have not put the spool in idiot)
- Run extruder until filament senses before multiplexer
- Run extruder until filament senses after multiplexer, if not then filament has gotten stuck, throw error to check
- Run filament until filament senses before actual printer direct-drive extruder
- Run for a few more bowden extrude turns until current starts to rise, indicating filament has hit direct drive extruder feed gear
- Unpause printing, printer extruder grabs filament that is pretensioned to be shoved into the gears and starts printing.

>>2761011
For bonus points, add intermediate bowden extruders in the feed path if you want to put your filament box far away form the printer, or if you want to print TPU (so the path between extruders is short enough not to jam).

>>2761011
Multiplexer:
- Should be as close to the head extruder as feasible. Probably should not be on the gantry, so on the frame above the gantry is a good place, positioned to satisfy infeed PTFE tube minimum bend radius. Nothing new here for 'reverse-bowden' feed setups.

Oh, and the buffer and buffer logic:
- Gap between two PTFE tube mating fittings. Spring attempts to push the gap closed and aligned (so there is no gap when loose filament is fed) but the gap will spread under spring tension when filament is fed against a restriction, i.e. the extruder. Buffer needs to be positioned after the multiplexer (or just make a load of buffers I guess, its your money you're wasting).

- Feed logic: feed filament from spool bowden end until the gap is at ~75% of total separation. Stop feed, then restart once gap closes to ~25% of total separation. You can directly measure gap and use PID for smooth control if you wish, but bang-bang is almost certainly good enough. Do not feed to full gap travel, as there needs to be some slack for retractions to push into.

>>2761011
>>2761012
>>2761064

Good, you got your design specs written down. Now go draw it up in CAD and prove to us that you're better than the average terminally online keyboard warriors.

>>2761008
What glue are you using for pla? For some reason there is no good consensus. I presume epoxy resin is the best option?

>>2761011

https://www.trianglelab.net/products/enraged-rabbit-project
https://github.com/EtteGit/EnragedRabbitProject

>>2761075
cyanoacrylate superglue always works for me

>>2761089
>superglue
I don't understand why some claim superglue doesn't work well with PLA.

>>2760803
in orcaslicer you can tell it to only connect to printed part or only connect to buildplate and stuff

>>2761011
Yanking the melt zone is the best compromise between toolchanging and having to purge a shit ton.

>>2761089
Didn't know TL sold kits. I bought mine from fysetc.

Anyways, beware the carrot patch. It's a piece of shit.
Printed out of ABS with the recommended settings the damn thing bends like 10 degrees when I put a full spool on it. There's also fuckall rigidity front to back so I think with a full spool loaded, doing some high speed high accel bed moves would break the damn thing.
Also because it bends so much under weight the pulley catches on the exterior cover.

Please gimme some Hitler bust STLs. Tried googling, but all I could find were either dead cults3d links, or artstation works that cost some couple dozen bucks.

>>2761069
Ironically having an actual AMS removes all motivation for trying to clone one.
>>2761089
MMU clone with the moronic single-moving-extruder nonsense. Don't clone the fucking MMU of all things, it's a fundamentally bad design.
USing a single moving extruder adds a bunch of extra components and complexity to custom build a bespoke alternative to cheap off-the-shelf parts. Spamazon will ship a complete dual-gear extruder (stepper included) to my door for £12. By the time you've added an additional stepper, the motion gantry system, (rods/rails plus leadscrew or belt drive) the positioning encoder system (to deal with filament tube alignment) and all the extra space and parts needed to handle the extruder moving about, you'll have ended up spending more anyway. And needing to mess about with pointless filament loading faff to get the filament loaded in the first place, as you ned to make sure you have tit shoved precisely to the correct position within the initial PTFE tube stage to be grabbed by the moving feeded, rather than just sticking it into the extruder directly and having it do all the positioning for you.
On top of that, it means every single filament swap needs to a complete retract to feeder. If you instead position the multiplexer just above the printer, you only need to retract the ~100-200mm of the MUX-to-print-head tubing between filament swaps, regardless oh how far away the spool itself is.

>>2761103
Yanking the melt zone still leaves material within the hotend to be purged anyway, so it does not actually solve the problem but does introduce new ones (mainly clogging of the PTFE tube requiring disassembly to clear and resume the print). For minimising flushing volume, you can use the trick with modded gcode on bambu machines for fast swap: retract the filament ~20mm before performing the cut cycle so that only the molten portion is left in the hotend and the unmelted filament stub (that can be retracted without issue) is minimised.

>>2761109
>clogging of the PTFE tube requiring disassembly
This is not a thing unless you were retarded and used tight tolerance tubing like capricorn.
Nozzles and heat breaks are drilled to around 1.8-1.85, which coincidentally is also the ID of the average tight PTFE. With fuckall space as tolerance shit WILL jam on the way out.
If you use 2mm ID PTFE this is no longer an issue.
>inb4 muh die swell

>>2761114
>This is not a thing unless you were retarded and used tight tolerance tubing like capricorn.
Yet the MMUs still clog. Could it be that dragging molten filament around means it will not helpfully conform to only the smallest diameter orifice it encounters? Surely not, liquids are not known for their property of flowing to fill containers after all.

>>2761116
Even ABS is too viscous to flow like you claim, and once it's out of the hotend it will quickly solidify. By the time it enters the PTFE tube it's almost completely solid.

>>2761011
The Bambu part looks harder to design for than razor blades. I would push a tiny gap between two Bowden tubes into the blade with a servo.

>>2760444
I am looking for some help on this print file.
I want to extend my cylinders to touch the backside of the part. Currently they are just in line with the plane but when I did my shell tool I cannot figure out how to extend the cylinder further back.
Any ideas? This is in Solidworks.

>>2761138
For a double-edge razor, you need a component that projects through the holes in the centre of a blade to provide alignment, as well as sufficient clamping force on the blade to keep it held. If you naively just stick two M3 bolts through the holes in the razor you will quickly discover that the blade will ride up inside the thread grooves and the blade will jump itself around inconsistently. The bambu cutters have the blade moulded into a housing, so you do not even need a fastener, just a concave feature to take to two projecting bosses.
Any other blade that features an integrated mounting mechanism would work. Single-edge injector razors would work (the type with the rolled/folded rear edge, not the 'schick' injector type or half-double type).
Servo or solenoid or toolhead-move would all work. If you use a purge chute rather than a purge tower (or just have off-bed gentry motion) then carriage actuation is attractive just to remove unnecessary parts. The X1C cut location is poorly placed, jsut shifting the chute a little to the right could put the cutter location next to it and off of the bed (but they had to try and pack the printer plus AMS into a single shipping volume, so that adds some extra design constraints an open version can ignore.

>>2760444
is fdm still dominating the hobbyist market? Do we still not have a cheap method (<10k) for printing metal/glass? I was recently reading about methods to print glass and there are so many fucking options now but apparently nothing is sold to the peasants...

>>2761123
Doesn't mean it won't be thicker by the time it's solidified. The internal diameter of the heat-break is usually somewhat larger than the diameter of the filament, which the molten filament fills even in standard use. Even if this thicker area can still fit in a PTFE tube, the edge of this zone may be sharp enough to catch on the edge of the tube. This probably wouldn't be an issue if you countersunk your PTFE tube ends, or did that flaring method that involves drilling out your hydraulic fitting.

>>2761138
Oh does it actually cut the filament? Kinda neat.

>>2761171
No, mainly because SLS tech doesn't produce strong parts, et least with regards to metal. In a lot of cases you'd be better off with fibre reinforced nylon, polycarbonate, etc. If you're doing it for good looking parts instead, resin printing has that market. If it's neither, why bother when FDM is far cheaper?
I'm waiting for good electrochemical metal printing, to the point I may experiment with it myself. It would require a non-bedslinger as a base machine though.

>>2761174
>Doesn't mean it won't be thicker by the time it's solidified. The internal diameter of the heat-break is usually somewhat larger than the diameter of the filament, which the molten filament fills even in standard use. Even if this thicker area can still fit in a PTFE tube, the edge of this zone may be sharp enough to catch on the edge of the tube. This probably wouldn't be an issue if you countersunk your PTFE tube ends, or did that flaring method that involves drilling out your hydraulic fitting.

Even without edges to catch, just having an interference-fit plastic plug to drag through the system is going to dramatically increase motor torque required compared to the nominal case of pushing/pulling a much thinner semirigid filament.

>Oh does it actually cut the filament? Kinda neat.
Just between the hotend and extruder. Which has the nice added benefit of allowing hotend swaps regardless of hotend temperature and eliminating the entire concept of hot-tightening. Revo does this too, but it triggers the autists because its too easy comapred to messing with multipart hotends. As does the nextruder, but the Prusa Autists (By Josef Prusa) have run out of jimmies to rustle by then after tuckering themselves out over the Revo and X1.

>I'm waiting for good electrochemical metal printing, to the point I may experiment with it myself. It would require a non-bedslinger as a base machine though.
There have been a few aborted attempts at home EBM, but it turns out high voltage high current high frequency power supplies are actually not easy.

A couple of years ago I built a FPV submarine drone out of PVC pipes and cobbled it all together. It works suprisignly well but is exceedingly ugly.

I've been thinking about 3D printing a new shell (or parts of a shell for it, but there is a requirement to have it waterproof. Is there any good method available beside liquid rubber sealing the shit out of a 3D PLA print?

I've installed a BLTouch to my Ender 3v2 and flashed the correct firmware but it doesn't release the probe when homing causing it to drill into the glass platform, has anyone had this issue before?

I've compiled the printer's firmware as well and nothing changed.

Video: https://mega.nz/file/I78hFCSZ#8jkM97aHlPA4AVzSJ7MWFHz2gUU7BxtxDNMkT4x6VWk

>>2761183
You can print water tight, but it's a bit of a trick all its own. Printing a whole ROV body, I wouldn't be confident in it without exactly what you described, sealing the shit out of it with a coat of rubber. Most 3D printed ROVs I've seen put the sensitive bits into glass/acrylic/polycarbonate tubes with fat overbuilt endcaps and lots of sealant.

>>2761184
>* Note: If the probe is not deploying, do a "Reset" and "Self-Test" and then check the wiring
Don't try just printing with the thing, there's a self-test for a reason, use it. 99% of the time this is a wiring issue. Whenever someone insists it's definitely not wiring, that confirms it is in fact the wiring. It's probably the wiring.

>>2761183
Rubber-coating can help, as well as running a flat soldering iron at 200°C ALL around the outer surface and sealing surfaces. Of course, use an o-ring, joint forming caulk, or a printed TPU flange for sealing joints. Also, slightly overextruding can reduce the pores. If you don't want to affect the outside surface, there's rumours of dichtol being used for sealing the capillary pores between FDM lines.
Of course, you may find that your usecase requires a combination of all of the above, like overextruding+dichtol.

>>2761187
I've thought about getting new wires for it but this is what I don't understand, it'll deploy the probe when you turn on the printer but when you home it the probe doesn't release.

>>2761185
>>2761189
Thanks anons, maybe I'll test print a few and then scale up the design. Probably just lather it in epoxy/resin first and see how that goes, then some of the more exotic options like Dichtol.

There are a list of things that need to go under the water that absolutely need to stay waterproof (x4 12V batteries, FPV camera, RTX, x4 ESCs).

> caulk
I use caulk right now and it's a mess. Ugly, and it seperates from surfaces if they wiggle too much (e.g. the cables going down to it pass through the casing which is currently covered in caulk).

>>2761191
That's 100% the wiring.

>>2761179
>home EBM
Wait, with electron beams? Are they putting the printer inside an electron microscope or something?

>>2761191
Are you set up as z_min probe or is it separate? Use M119 to check endstop states.
> it is in fact the wiring

>>2761197
Not sure what that means. All I've done is compiled the firmware and did a couple test homing runs.

>>2761196
EBM printers, the examples I've seen anyway, are like a powder-bed SLS printer had a baby with a CRT monitor. It's all in a vacuum chamber, and they use a controlled electron beam as opposed to a laser.

>>2761199
Compile *what* firmware? Did you actually configure and compile a fresh Marlin install? Did you just download and install some firmware? Did you just download some complete firmware config you had to compile yourself before installing? What, from where, details.

How did you install your BL-Touch? Did you use it to replace the z endstop, did your printer have a dedicated BL-Touch port on the board ... ? How about a photo of your mainboard so I can point out the wiring issue, because there's a 99% chance it's a wiring issue, 1% chance it's wiring AND firmware.

>>2761202
I compiled https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1 this firmware from source and used the GUI to select the BLTouch option which I built via VScode. My board has a dedicated section for a BLTouch yes.

I've tried other firmware too which had BLTouch support and they've all given me the same issue. It's like it's trying to rely on the Z-Stop but it's no longer there.

>>2761205
Dedicated, and the firmware is set up correctly for it from what I can tell. Show me your mainboard, because, as expected, it's the wiring. It's always the wiring.

>I've tried other firmware too which had BLTouch support and they've all given me the same issue.
It's the wiring.

>>2761207
Too lazy to show the mainboard but this is what it looks like, all ports are glued with wires except for one and I have the wires arranged correctly in the board as well. Prior I had the cords arranged wrong and the light on the BLTouch didn't even turn on.

>>2761174
>This probably wouldn't be an issue if you countersunk your PTFE tube ends, or did that flaring method that involves drilling out your hydraulic fitting
So it's an issue that is easily solved as long as you're not retarded, not that the design of filament changers is inherently flawed.
Anyways, I rest my case for now, we can argue more on this topic once I'm done building my ERCF. I want to see any issues with my own eyes.

>>2761214
>I have the wires arranged correctly in the board as well
You say this, but you describe a very common situation caused by incorrect wiring. You have every symptom.

>>2761194
>That's 100% the wiring.
>>2761197
>it is in fact the wiring
>>2761202
>99% chance it's a wiring issue
>>2761207
>It's the wiring.
>>2761187
>99% of the time this is a wiring issue.
>Whenever someone insists it's definitely not wiring, that confirms it is in fact the wiring.

I'm serious nigga.

There is only one port I can plug the wires in and 2 arrangements I can put the wires in, there's some type of letter indicator I followed as well so everything matches up. If something is wrong it has to be the BLTouch itself, the wires or my motherboard.

>>2761183
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8x-mjjT8j4
tl;dr soak prints in Dichtol to prevent water soaking through even 'watertight' prints due to porosity of extruded plastic.
>>2761201
Yep, EBM gets you SLS-like controls, but far higher power density without all the issues that comes with for lasers (penetration depth, blooming, etc). Most SLM machines already use a vacuum chamber anyway for gas infiltration control (Oxydisation natch, but Nitrogen and Hydrogen can fuck without your alloys too) and dust explosion prevention.

>>2761219
>doubling down
3 screws, 1 photo, mainboard, go.

>>2761219
There are several different plug arrangements for the BLtouch coming out of China, it can be easy to flip or reverse a connector by mistake, or not realize your wires are color-coded backwards because China. What you're describing is a really common issue for a reason, and it's just as likely to be Xi's fault as it is yours.

>>2761219
>There is only one port I can plug the wires in
There are 2 ports, the dedicated 5pin BLtouch port, where you connect power, ground and servo signal, and the 2 pin Z endstop port where you connect the probe output.
You can use the pins of the dedicated port for the probe output too, but it requires additional firmware config, which I doubt you are capable of doing.
>2 arrangements I can put the wires in
Since the BLtouch port is 5 wide but you have to connect 3 wires to it, no, there are a lot more arrangements and much higher chances for you to fuck up.

>>2761227
The firmware he's using is specifically set up to use the standard connector on the 4.2+ creality boards, and does not replace the z-endstop. He's very likely got one of the servo pins switched up, half the fucking connectors coming out of chinkland have them switched, I think they were used that way when ghetto rigging the older Creality boards.

>>2761226
I've tried both arrangements and there's only one which'll light the probe up, I'm just going to get another probe since the cords cost like 1/3rd of a new one.

As for connecting 3 wires there's only 2 which can fit in the one slot on the board which isn't covered in hot glue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PQG1FF?starsLeft=1&th=1 this is what I have lol. Getting the Creality one next.

>>2761229
Take the photo. Do it. We can fix this. Take the photo.

I have an old photo actually.

>>2761232
Exactly as expected.
Now look at my photo, use it as gospel, fix your shit.

>>2761232
What did I say an hour ago? Wiring issue. Every. Fucking. Time.

If I do it the other way the lights don't turn on, this could be from the wrong configuration but I'll look at it again soon.

>>2761205
Did you read the instructions? Because they tell you how to hook it up correctly. https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/3D-BLTouch

>>2761243
I followed a tutorial when I first received it.

>>2761232
Tardosaurus, the 3pin servo header is not supposed to go close to the LCD connector. The 2 pins next to the LCD connector are the probe signals.
Picrel from my setup, notice the 2 unused wires on the 5 pin connector, those are the probe signal. I don't use them because I have the probe signal going to the Z endstop port.

>>2761246
>that thin white wire connected to the bed heat terminal
10 bucks says your house will burn down the next time you print something

>>2761248
10 bucks says he's using an external mosfet or solid-state relay.

>>2760479
Man you could have just hot glued a bunch or cut water bottles

>>2761248
It's only a few mA of current, so it's fine.

>>2761246
Just checked my 3D printer's board again and that photo I shared earlier isn't what it looks like now.

>>2761184
I've got no idea what mainboard your printer uses so this advice might be worthless. Is your firmware configured to use the Z-endstop pins or the probe pin for the BL touch? And does this firmware config match the wiring?

>>2761184
Can you stop spamming this nigger on the board.
If you want an 'avatar' associated with your posts you're on the wrong website.
I also don't want to look at that abomination while browsing this place

What's the best fan shroud for the ender 2 v2, two noctua fans of this type, and a spider hot end. I have the buck converters and everything. I'm not really interested in upgrading the motherboard cooler or power supply fan. Maybe in the future.

>>2761256
I've got a 422 board.

>>2761253
>a heated bed draws only a few mA of current
Either you're high as a kite or you haven't a clue about electricity. Printer runs on 24V and the bed draws somewhere around 220W. Do a quick division and you get almost 10 amps of current.
With that dinky little wire,
YOU
WILL
BURN.

Fuck, I hate cheap printers because it allows idiots like these to get into the hobby.

>>2761259
I never asked. But you should probably check what I suggested you to check.

>>2761261
>>2761250

>>2761257
No.

Since I've got it wired correctly I'm just going to buy another.

>>2761269
Well good luck with that. I mean, you could just run the self-test and check the endstop states as was previously suggested.
>>2761187
>there's a self-test for a reason, use it.
>>2761197
>Use M119 to check endstop states.

Doesn't cost any money, actually helps diagnose the issue, etc.

>>2761261
I admit I almost caught fire last week (see OP collage).
But I fixed my shit and even built my own MOSFET module so I think I know enough about electricity. In fact, I probably know more than you.
Also included a fan channel so I can dab on the haters and turn off the hotend fan when the printer is idle.

>>2761271
The only test I see is the home test but I'll look around. I've got no idea what to do with the endstop part since I don't even have that attached.

>>2761273
Learn to connect to your printer and issue commands directly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13XDMQ6UWy4
Run M119, it will give you a result. That result will probably show something like the BLTouch being trigger even though it is, in fact, not triggered. You can also use M401 and M402 to manually deploy and stow the probe in order to test it.
It seems like you're wired correctly, so firmware is what I'd be concerned about. No harm in flashing firmware again.
Grab the right one. You need to know your board version and specific chipset. You must check what chip is physically on the board, do NOT assume or guess. Board version is easy, it says it clearly on the board, probably 4.2.2, 4.2.7, or 4.3.1. You probably have a perfectly normal STM32Fsomething, but if you have a G32/GD32 chip then things may be different.
Don't use the configurator, don't compile your own, just download a binary.
If you have a 4.2.2 or 4.3.1 board, 99% chance you want this: https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/download/20240122/Ender3V2-422-BLTUBL-MPC-20240125.bin
If it's a 4.2.7, use this: https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/download/20240122/Ender3V2-427-BLTUBL-MPC-20240125.bin

>>2761232
The 2 wires on a separate connector are the output. Those 2 pins on the left where you plugged the output, one is 5V and one is ground. Good chance you fried the probe by feeding 5V into the output.

>>2761291
That's a fair point, hadn't considered they may have fucked the BLTouch.

I made a 10/10 3D printed jewelry holder demon hand. I made a 10/10 3D printed lamp. I'm about to make a 10/10 3D printed glowing eyes crow. And I ran out of ideas on what to make after...

>>2761299
A 10/10 life sized Robert Smith

>>2761291
I thought the same thing before and this is probably the case. In general I've had a lot of issues with this 3D printer, I haven't been able to print one thing since I bought it 2 years ago.

>>2760822
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOzVSxrQnIU

>>2761306
No but you reminded me that i wanted to print a pair of tits as wall decoration.

>>2761299
>10/10
>10/10
>10/10
why are you consciously trying to sound like a fag

>>2761201
Yeah I know that. My question is more how the hell a hobbyist makes one. The only potentially easy method I can think of is to build it inside a SEM, just like how people do low-speed hobby e-beam lithography with them. No clue where they get an electron microscope from through, surplus old uni hardware I guess. Otherwise you’ve gotta build a damn good vacuum chamber, electron gun, steering coils, etc.

>>2761336
almost as if the process is too stupidly complex and expensive to just DIY-slap it together at home

>>2761328
How is rating something equal to sounding like a fag you asshole?

>>2761336
Why would you waste time, money, and effort trying to cram an EMB machine into a tiny SEM volume? Stupid idea. Vacuum chambers are hardly rare or expensive. Plenty of guides out there for high-vacuum pump work for home shop use (coating deposition, home vacuum tube manufacture, home semiconductor wafer fabbing, etc).

>>2761011
What about the software/microcontroller part? I have an E5S1. The motherboard has some unoccupied screw terminals, but it wouldn't be enough GPIO pins (if that's what they are), unless the commands go by i2c or something.

>>2760444
Rack Robotics launched pre-orders for their Wire Edm kit. Question is, drop $500+ ~$60 for a used Ender, or just keep saving to buy a Milo.
The Wire edm can only cut a max of 10mm thick material, with a depth of 100mm. Idk if its worth it for around $600 total.

>>2761299
Print a 9.5/10 dildo and jam it up your ass.

it would be cool if we had a repository of shit we found / made to share.
i have a big personal collection of stuff and i imagine you guys also have accumulated a neat variety of things.

I have an ender 5 plus and wanted to know if it was worth converting to a corexy for speed purposed. I know the merc 1 exist but Im concerned about corexy not being worth it at this bed size (370x377). Like belt paths are too long and too much stretch.

I have an ender 3 and I’m printing at the normal settings. Been using it for a few years now and have kept up with maintenance, however twice in the last week I’ve had an issue. My prints have split in half. Where there is a complete layer separation. One layer is totally clean and the other is completely garbage and not connected at all. Any idea what happened? Has only happened twice out of say 20 prints in the last few weeks. This is only about 4 hours in and it didn’t happen at the same spot on the other print.

how much pain am I in for printing nylon on a diy enclosure ender 3 clone. Yes it is dry and kept in a drybox.

>>2761416
Nylons not too bad to print when dry and enclosed. I assume your pre-heating your enclosure too.

>>2761183
You could always make negative molds via 3D printing and make a carbon fiber epoxy shell for the thing. Less to worry about sealing, looks nice, won't blow up underwater at any depth you'll be working in.

>>2761414
i usually assume weird shit like this is some nozzle fault. maybe burned on shit on the inside, so you aren't getting smooth extrusion. like, more friction because it's catching on some shit inside, and pressure goes up and less plastic comes out.
a clog. i would assume a clog. if you put in a new nozzle and it's fine then it wasn't that.

>>2761424
Yeah it’s a new nozzle happened before I changed it

>>2761426
machine broke
throw out get new one

>>2761409
so then do the thing that you think you are being subtle about implying: post your thingiverse/thang/whatever link.

>>2761414
like this? it slipped on the bed causing layer shift after which the layers don't have the expected foundation to print on and can turn into this or literal spaghetti.

>>2761440
No it was still in place. I couldn’t even tell there was a change in it until I took it off the bed and it came off. It was as if a single .1 layer was missing

>>2761414
looks like your extruder is not extruding properly at that layer, typically I'd clean the nozzle by maxing its temperature and then accupuncture-needling it from the front, then cooling the nozzle and yanking the filament when it's just above the filaments glass temperature.... clip the yanked tip off the end off the filament, get nozzle back to normal temperature, and see how fast i can extrude short lengths of filament.. like 25mm at 25mm/s or something. And look to see if it seems to be doing it as best as it usually can.
...or just replacing the nozzle with a new one
Both things are to see if it's an intermittent blockage.
That said, your prints look like you have a lot of different issues; wobble, varying extrusion, etc. But where that >>2761414 breaks the layer is clearly missing or only partially printed, so start with ruling out intermittent extrusion issues.

>>2761414
PS if i have even a small amount of dust on my spool it will almost always find a way to partially clog my prints.
Same applies every tie I have put a foam based dust catcher around my filament - i'm pretty sure the foam particles get onto the filament and ultimately make it clog. So I just try to make sure my entire spool and feed area are clean, and either use the spool in a timely manner, or store it in a ziplock bag, or in my food dehydrator to filament dryer conversion. Not turned on, just becasue its clean inside and has a lid.

>>2761449
Use a nylon (toothbrush) brush instead and stop fucking around with things made from sugar cotton candy.

>>2761183
There's waterproof pla

>>2761346
Since a regular printer uC is already expecting to wait for manual filament loading, the entire loading process can be conducted by an independent uC. The only communications needed are "load filament X" and "filament X loaded" or "load failed". Any bus connection would do (you're already using a bus-based rather than direct wired printhead, right?), data rate and latency requirements are exceptionally low. You could probably bit-bang a single pin if needed.

>>2761372
They were accepting pre-orders since last year.
I prefer EDM over Milo for simply being cleaner. With the later you gotta think of additional enclosure and how to handle chips. Already got a cheap Ender5 as base and am currently reworking electronics as i find his resistor "solution" quite midwit.

>>2761412
You're underestimating good quality belts. That said, i wouldn't bother nonetheless, maintenance would devolve into a mess. Get some PC wheels, they'll do you good.

>>2761011
>wada wada
3d chameleon or do it yourself.

>>2761337
That's what I was wondering. Though I don't think the high voltage power supplies are the toughest part as he was saying, rather the electron emitting cathode and the beam deflection and focusing lenses seem like they'd be the toughest.

>>2761345
For very small things, or just as a proof of concept? I bet you could print solids to a similar tolerance to wire EDM, and with tighter radii, so making millimetre-scale or even micrometer-scale mechanicals might be a unique benefit of such a printer. Though growing monocrystalline silicon layer by layer via UV masking for MEMS seems to already do that pretty easily.

>>2761372
Rack Robotics' design is bad. See their github's issues page.

>>2761460
Resistive ballasts are a common way for making an EDM machine, and using an aluminium PCB as a resistor isn't a terrible solution (I'd just use nichrome in a bucket of water), but the real problem with it is it necessitates a medium voltage power supply (~72VDC). They're expensive. By using a system that stores current in a big inductor instead of in capacitors, the voltage for jumping to the workpiece is given from the kickback of the inductor. You could use an old ATX PSU or two for the base voltage, maybe a MOT primary for the inductor. The circuit to keep current flowing in the inductor is just a low-voltage half-bridge and a high-voltage single FET, pic related.
I based the design of this:
>https://tenebryo.github.io/posts/2021-04-07-edm-power-supply.html
But he goes the extra mile for bipolar pulsing, and is also a maniac for running it off rectified mains. Wouldn't go near that while it was cutting.

>>2761414
Out kinda looks like the fucked up layer is two layers smooshed together. Is your z axis binding and skipping steps? Try:
>cleaning the z rails and wheels or sliders
>putting 710 on the screw
>wiping it clean
>putting 710 on it
>checking the z motor is mounted straight
>putting 710 on the screw
>check if the screw is bent, install an oldham coupler (and put 710 on its slides) if it's bent under 1mm and get a new screw if it's bent over 1mm (and put 710 on it)
>put 710 on it
If it still happens, get a new z motor. DO NOT put 710 on the motor.
DO NOT get 710 on the bed. Remove first if possible or cover. If you do get 710 on the bed, wipe with generous amounts of isopropyl alcohol, but you will forget and suffer from terrible adhesion on the 710 spots until you remember to clean it, so don't get any on it on the first place.

threaded inserts are such a waste of time
just thread into the plastic

>>2761460
>3d chameleon
Looks pretty good. Could do with a buffer to avoid infeed motors driving filament tension, but other than the usual OS jankyness (overpowered extruder motors, weeble-wobbling multiplexer, lack of sensors requriing manual intervention or open-loop hope-control)) that covers what I was thinking of. Sure saves me time if someone else has already done most of the work!

>£3 rolls of Jayo PETG because Jayo were dumb and forgot to update their ebay bundle prices properly (3 rolls for the price of 1)
>As wet as expected so dry overnight
>Prints fine for ~20g then SPROING
Well, £3 is £3, and once I dug the snapped end out of the side of the reel at least the AMS was smart enough to just let it feed back in once the stub ran out. Would have been more annoyed if unattended. Lets see if the rest of the reel was wound correctly or not.

>>2761460
Ender 5 Plus owner here. Fuck roller wheels. Fuck concentric nuts, all five of them. And especially fuck a front heavy printhead assembly held up by three roller wheels. Fuck unsynced z-steppers. While CoreXY is actually a good idea on this machine, linear rails should be mandatory. Fuck creality. And fuck Prusa.

>>2761517
>Ender 5 Plus owner here
stopped reading here.

>>2761448
>not sure if unaware of the steps of a cold pull or just too stupid to communicate them coherently

futurama.jpg

>>2761460
I guess the only change would be the wire edm kit launching, then.
>>2761463
>Rack Robotics' design is bad. See their github's issues page.

Even the V.2? If so, what do you recommend I look into, as an electrical brainlet?

>>2761463
>is also a maniac for running it off rectified mains
Couldn't you then design your own high voltage buck converter then? So you can step down mains to something a bit more safe without actually needing an expensive power supply?

im new to klipper. Got this height map after doing z-tilt, setting my bed screws and doing z-offset. I'm seeing 0.1 difference in height in the front of the bed across the x axis, is that fine? I've never done this before and I don't know if klipper compensates for it automatically and the documentation is kinda sparse on this.

Where do y'all buy fasteners online? Getting a printer is the first time I've really had a reason to keep metric hardware around, so I need to grab a few boxes of common sizes.

>>2761583
fasteners? what for? I have a 3D printer, why would I buy fasteners, or glue for that matter.

>>2761583
I just buy variety packs off Amazon.

>>2761583
I like to snag voron fastener kits whenever a new iteration of voron releases, they can sell for fairly cheap until revised kits get posted, and you get bulk high quality fasteners.
Otherwise, in the US I use Bolt Depot. Generally okay prices for metric fasteners.

>>2761463
My current direction is two server PSUs and a lower one for the usual electronics. Mostly because i already got that laying around. As a euro, i won't even think of rectifying.

>>2761532
>replying to bait
Yet, he still got you.

>>2761571
0.1mm is half a layer height.
Yes that's fine unless you're extremely anal about everything
Bed mesh will take care of it

>>2761571
Totally not just fine, it's quite good. That's as good as if not better than cheap window or picture frame glass, which can have a +/- 0.2mm discrepancy over 300mm. A grand total of +/- 0.05mm is extremely good, better than the average home printer.

>>2761571
>0.1 difference in height in the front of the bed across the x axis, is that fine?
That's quite good.
>I don't know if klipper compensates for it automatically
You have to set up ABL but even then it's a dice roll if it actually compensates properly or goes full retard.
I for one could never get klipper to do ABL properly, the bed mesh is accurate to reality but the compensation that klipper applies is fucked.

>>2761553
>Even the V.2?
Can't see that on their github, there's just the v1.0. Is there a schematic elsewhere?

>>2761561
>design your own high voltage buck converter
For like 500W? Or even over 1200W, since he's considering using rectified 240V if he doesn't have enough power from 120V? Yeah it's possible, but expensive and complicated, exactly the issues with using an off the shelf AC to DC converter.
And besides that, the main issue with using rectified mains is your entire machine is referenced to mains. If you use a single diode rectifier and have a plug that can't get live and neutral mixed up you're pretty safe, but if you want to halve the size of your filter caps you'd use a full bridge rectifier, which puts even your 0VDC rail fluctuating up to 160V/320V 50/60 times per second. Again, wouldn't want to go near it while it was on.
Rectified mains at hundreds of watts could also greatly benefit from PFC.

The only cost effective way to run such a machine I can think of would be:
>rectified mains
>2nd hand high-power PSUs (e.g. ATX, 3d printer)
>rewound microwave oven transformer
Maybe a ZVS switcher could be simple enough and powerful enough to make a good AC-to-DC converter, the lack of output regulation shouldn't be a problem.

>>2761611
>two server PSUs
Are they 12V PSUs in series? I've got two 2nd hand ATXs in series to run my snapmaker
>As a euro, i won't even think of rectifying
Yeah I've got 240V too. I'd consider it if the system was fully insulated so there was no risk of shock, maybe you could do this with an enclosure with interlocks on its doors, but it's a lot of hassle. An isolation transformer would be an easy way to go if you could get one for cheap enough.

Are you going for capacitive with a power resistor, or are you doing something else?

>>2761688
>Can't see that on their github, there's just the v1.0. Is there a schematic elsewhere?
Doesn't look like its public. The website lists it as a from the ground up rework, mentioning improvement to efficiency, power output, pulse speed, current sensing, and safety.
I have no metric to gauge any of this on. Maybe the Milo would be better, I've used mills before at least. But machining steel and tempting

>>2761708
*Is tempting
Fuck I'm tired.

>>2761402
No thanks I'm not a faggot so I'll leave that to you.

>>2761643
>>2761650
>>2761666

thank you very much anons

>>2761708
>200W
>70VDC
Looks like it's still relying on an AC-DC SMPS, which is probably 90% of the cost. Not sure if it's doing capacitive or inductive energy storage though. I don't really trust their engineering if the hardware is closed-source without any 3rd parties to validate it, considering they left backwards LEDs in the previous schematic.

Retard that's been struggling with printing nylon.
Have a semi successful print done, and I'm pretty sure the problem was me leaving the zipper on the enclosure open a little too long during the start just in case they immediately failed so I could cancel as they all curled on the side facing the opening. But they stuck well enough to finish.
The prints aren't the cleanest, but getting a successful first print is the first step, then tweaking other settings to get cleaner prints.
Then on to doing larger prints. My hope is that if I get small stuff to print right first, the larger ones will have less issues.

>>2761790
remember to let them cool gradually and consistently, if you rip open your enclosure to admire you're new large nylon print it will probably warp itself to hell.

>>2761804
The plan is let any print sit for at least a couple of minutes (20-30) if it takes any longer than like an hour.
Have a couple of bigger prints that I'll probably let sit for an hour or so as they'll take over a day.

What voltage are typical 3d printer motherboard sensor/endstop/probe inputs? 3v or 5v?

>>2761583
buy a bunch of different ones from aliexpress. that's the same shit you're buying on amazon, but you're paying for the convenience.

Regarding strength, do you think this lamp swivel could be done with PETG? A little chunkier is fine, and the pipe/fixtures could be lighter weight materials than brass. Planning a custom lamp

>>2760460
What a bitch

>>2761884
Petg is very tough/elastic. It will sag and suck hard. Do ABS/ASA optimized for layer adhesiom or a really chunky PLA piece

What's the cheapest board and stepper combo that will make a noisy bedslinger quiet?

>>2761950
Forgot to add, it has a FlashForge mainboard currently. The steppers are soldered on so I can't just replace them.

>>2761950
I have a MKS skipr with TMC2209s on it. It's essentially totally silent in my i3 (bedslinger).
If I give it circles with 360 segments/circumference it wails a tiiiiiny bit.
https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-SKIPR

>>2761950
>doesn't want a printer that makes R2D2 noises

>>2760444
are there any slicers that don't have retarded fucking nozzle/tool paths?
>8 hours into a 24 hour print on my ender 3 v2
>big rectangular project box with very simple geometry
>hear printer making weird sound, go check
>previous layers perfectly fine
>current layer fucked up
>cura doing a retarded tool path on this layer for no apparent reason
>tons of hops and retractions

Is there consistent over/under extrusion between PLA and PLA+? Because I'm perfect with PLA and + is over extruding.

Also I can't seem to find anything to tell me if PLA+ has any kind of standard properties or if it is just a LMAO crapshoot.

Not talking CF etc.

>>2761981
>I'm perfect with PLA and + is over extruding
You're supposed to create a filament profile and tune flow/extrusion multiplier for each filament type&brand/spool depending how much autism and aspergers you suffer from.
>Also I can't seem to find anything to tell me if...
Start with the filament technical data sheet. Then print flow calibration pieces and temp towers and adjust your profile accordingly.
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extrusion_multiplier.html

Picrel: im printing PETG perfectly but overextrude ASA. Most likley due to warping causing print to move closer to the nozzle. So will have to fix that first and also recheck bed level and z-height. Then I can work on really dailing in the extrusion multiplier.

>>2761959
Thanks. Seems like what I've been looking for but I'll have to make sure it will fit.

Just finished installing a BLTouch and Klipper and all my prints are coming out like picrel. I thought it was extrusion but I calibrated that and it seems very close to the mark. Did I mess up Z offset somehow?

>>2761911
Doesn't PLA have a better layer adhesion strength than ABS/ASA?

>>2761982
You can reduce warping: slow down, cut the fan, improve bed adhesion, heat the chamber. I haven't tried a heating lamp or draft shield.
Adjusting the tool path/extrusion to match actual dimensions seems most promising. Extruder stepper current increases when you have overextrusion. Moretti 2022 apparently had success measuring the upwards force on the extruder some other way.
VL53L8CH or similar laser distance camera hasn't been used to measure warping. Individual measurements have a big spread (99.7% fall in a 8mm interval) but it's potentially a lot of data (8x8@30Hz), to fit a small number of parameters that describe the deformation.
Pic related is nylon 5x5cm.

>>2761980
Don't use Cura. Problem solved. Cura is trash and always has been. Fabulous features and slicing engine under the surface, incredible devs behind it, garbage experience for the end-user and a terrible UI to keep you crippled. Don't use Cura.

>>2762051
Show me another slicer with solidworks integration.
Hard mode: no gentootard shit.

>>2762062
Solidworks integration?
>Users can open .sldprt or .asm files directly in Ultimaker Cura
That's it? How fucking lazy are you? Export as a step, stl, obj, or 3mf, the files that slicers handle. Most faggots use a macro so they can just tap a key or shortcut to export the stl easily. PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer.

In case any faggots aren't aware, SuperSlicer is back in development. It was chosen as the "official slicer" for a certain 3D printing company, and supermerill is now employed by them specifically to work on SuperSlicer. Still playing catch up, but it means SuperSlicer can find its position as the best fucking slicer ever, again.

Gradient gyroid when

>>2762063
Sorry but double saving is a pain in the ass. If you'd do it a dozen times a day like I do you'd understand.
Cura can also be a pain in the ass but not as hard as other gentooman tier slicers that have yet to learn UX. Turboautist shit like SuperSlicer dumps the entire kitchen sink on your head in the first second with no sensible defaults for all the settings nor good explanations for what those settings do.
PrusaSlicer goes to the other extreme and is too dumbed down for my tastes.
Cura just strikes the right balance between easy to use and having great control over printing parameters.

>>2761790
I decided to print something bigger to see if maybe the part was just too thin, and it printed no problem. No warping or surface issues that would be inherent to the filament and not settings. The only issue is a slight layer misalignment from me being an ape and grabbing a separate printed item without pausing the rest of the print.
So I guess I need to either dry my nylon more, or this particular spool just doesn't like small/thin prints. Going to try drying it more, as I did a test print of the wire guard when it was fresh out of the box and it came out fine with no warping or anything. So its probably just a little wet.
Was also worried about the supports possibly being a problem with nylon, but it snapped off just fine.

>>2762177
>double saving
Don't. You have SolidWorks, use it. Set up a macro, one button press to export your current shit to step or stl and puts it in a temp folder and opens it in PrusaSlicer/SuperSlicer. You just hit one button.

>>2762186
This seemed like a nice thing until I clicked new macro and an IDE popped up.
I'm not learning some proprietary language just so I can avoid a non problem.

>>2762063
My man, if you want to sell superslicer or orcaslicer you better have something else to say than "it's so much better than cura".
Your arc overhangs?
Your non planar printing?
Your conical slicing?
These would be game changers and a fucking good reason to actually switch.
If your only argument is "we wuz better than they" because this one button is a green circle and not a blue rectangle, then you are a joke.

>print extrusion tests
>go silly trying to underextrude
>Prints magically perfect for no reason
It is mocking me

considering that prusa is always behind the times what is the superior large tool switcher printer right now?

I want to swap my induction probe to a klicky on my ender clone, but i'm thinking it's a fool's errand. Since it's a bed slinger I was thinking using a old cd rom drive's linear actuator to place the probe in and out of reach of the tool head.

>>2762203
Find an E3D gantry.

>>2762203
Tool switcher?
There's only the E3D toolchanger and the Jubilee project. That's it.

Kino under construction

>>2762289
Nice. What are you going to do with 8 slots though?
Actually, wait...
ENHANCE
What the fuck is that? That's not a voron logo for sure.

>>2760444
does this general have a top useful prints list?
>t. getting a used prusa in a few days

>>2762321
I made a gunstock for my VR controller. It provides an in game advantage over just hanging your hand in empty space with no support.

Plastic brackets and other little functional stuff is nice and it is more fun than driving 30 miles to and from the hardware store.

And of course /k/ things.

>>2762299
Yes, it's not a voron logo. Every voron logo or fag carrot has been removed and replaced with my own logo.
Voron cultists can suck it.

>>2762299
Here's a pic of all the affected parts I've printed so far.

>>2761583
Me again, found this link in another thread, figured I'd share.
https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=24_18_37&limit=100

>>2761583
I just ordered a huge variety set off aliexpress, gonna take a bit to get here but was way cheaper than it would've been for the same thing off amazon or somewhere local

>>2762321
3d print a bump stock
you can do it no one can stop you

>>2762321
I've been printing a ton of organization shit for my board games, as well as accessories and mods for my coffee gear.

>>2762321
>useful prints list?
>>t. getting a used prusa in a few days
Start by reprinting EVERYTHING made of plastic in your printer just in case in ABS with a draft shield. Yes, even the PLA parts. Maybe especially the PLA parts.

>>2762446
>draft shield
wat

>>2762465
>>draft shield
>wat
A shroud or tall skirt all around the piece to keep the bed heat in and reduce the chances of the ABS warping

BAnon here. I'm doing a (paid, but almost at cost) job at 0.6mm line width and 0.3 line height with an 0.4 nozzle. I was getting underextrusion in the first layer but increasing the flow by 15% from Octoprint without resetting the print got it printing just right. It's a bit chunky in the corners as I haven't yet enabled linear advance (sue me) but it works and the lines are nice and [ T H I C C ] and buttery smooth. Maybe I'll try 0.8 lines and 0.4 layers next.
>inb4
<v6 hotend
<bimetal heatbreak
<vanilla bedslinger on vanilla wheels
<2019 firmware. yes, i said i'd update it or replace the board, i'll get to it
<updatedish octopi

>>2762500
Also
<single vanilla wonky chinesium z screw with oldham coupler
The coupler (and a few kisses to the screws to straighten the z motor mount) seem to have taken care of most of the z wobble

>>2762412
Based

>>2762412
Noice, but
>>2762289
The retarded linear sliding carrot of bullshit triggers me SO hard. IT's autistic, but in the "sonichu can beat up everyone" way. Even if you're dead-set on the attempt to penny-wise-pound-foolish your way into avoiding a (single, cheap and low powered because it needs to move filament a few cm) motor per extruder, don't go and put it on some retarded linear axis, make it fucking ROTARY. Replace an entire extra stepper with a cheap hobby servo. Drives me fucking mad that poeple are cloning Prusa's garbage effort rather than rubbing two synapses together. PoS has to clear the ENTIRE feedpath before changing, weeble-wobble its geartrain to mesh with a new extruder, then reload the feedpath all over again. The multiplexer goes at the FUCKING HEAD END.

>>2762535
And yes, my jimmies have indeed progressed beyond rustled and have now achieved resonance.

>>2762500
Okay, it's fucking done. It worked out relatively okay, should have added a few tabs as it warped up a bit, and the supports were some nasty fuckers to remove. Maybe I should have used tree supports and turned down support flow.

>>2762535
Eh, it's not as retarded as other voron stuff (looking at you printed belt driven extruder, you got retconned but I still remember you), but the only other option would be the prusa MMU. I liked the sliding carrot more, partly because you can make it big.
That being said, the feedpath clearing thing is intentional. This thing is supposed to go on a voron, a printer which goes very fast. Having a lot of additional shit on the printhead would mess with that.
My main gripe will probably be the software setup. Knowing klipper, this will fight me tooth and nail.
That and having to come up with a filament sensor for my hotend since god forbid they design parts for a hotend/extruder they didn't lobby for.

Anons any advice on making 3d printed parts food safe?
Id print in petg but no printer for it, only SLA
current plan is to print said parts, then line them in food safe heavy duty food preservative liners, but idk how to go about affixing that to the inside of a resin print, as they were designed to act like bags themselves not be cut up into forms then made into liners

any advice?

>>2762564
>any advice?
For SLA no. Most resins are actively toxic both raw and cured, and you will contaminate the tub anyways. Get a FDM printer and use only foodgrade PLA, stainless steel nozzles, and run a short bit of cleaning filament now and then.
Keep the filament in a sealed bag when not using it, generally, but especially when trying to make foodgrade stuff. Don't get machine 710 on the filament or in the hotend, especially if you're trying to make it foodsafe. If you've put 710 on the screw (which you should have), try to not let the filament brush against the screw. A reverse bowden will help.

>>2762564
various filaments are food safe but the layers created by FDM traps pathogens so physically it's not food safe long term. If the part permits then just coat it in epoxy and it will become food safe.

>>2762564
>SLA
Sand, clean, and coat the cured print in a food-grade resin, probably some sort of epoxy or polyester. Like what they use on countertops.

>>2762412
after I built my voron v0.1 and voron trident it got so annoying how elitist they are in discord. I found getting that serial is dumb as hell,

>>2762679
It's pretty crazy. Currently in one of the printer for ants discords, and its just as bad at times.

>>2762715
annex engineering I know there is beef with voron from way back idk the exact details.

I am in another discord for cross gantries and they shit on voron hard, all the time.I am just here to see if there is any cross gantry printers to build but damn they really make it their personality to hate on other groups.

>>2761272
What a pile of parts

>>2762745
Hey, as long as it works.
But it's like that because it's typical of me to design with overwhelming excess.
Also I really wanted a controllable fan channel with high side switching and that required quite a few parts to get the control signal to work with the Pi's 3v3 signals. Without that the board would have been much cleaner.

so, braided sleeve...
Is there a tool of some kind to make getting lots of wires into fairly snug sleeves? Or a magical technique?

>>2762797
like heatshrink?

>>2762798
no

>>2762799
i'm not sure i understand then, are you trying to group cables to go in braided sleeving or do you want something to gather up already sleeved cables?

>>2762797
It's like a Chinese finger trap.
Of the sleeve is already on and you need to run a new wire just pull the sleeve off and incorporate the new wire into the old naked harness.
Prepare the harness (bunch of cables). It should be straight and smooth and have no protuberances like zipties or bands. If needed they'll go on later. Harnessing string could be used at this stage but if you need to ask you're not using it, and if you're using it you're not asking on 4chan for help.
Measure out the length of sleeve you need plus 5cm (in freedom units, roughly six barley cornes dry and rounde laid ende to ende) and cut it.
Compress it and push it onto one end of the harness.
Dress the first end. Get an extra 2.5cm (three barley cornes dry and rounde laid ende to ende) pulled over, put a ziptie (or loop of harness string but if you knew you wouldn't be here) where the sleeve should end. If you're a wanker, cut that end of the sleeve now, below the ziptie. Else, cut that end down to 1cm (one barley corner and a halfe) and pull it back over the ziptie (or string). See how prettier it is without the cut frayed end flailing around? Now ziptie (or tie) that end.
Pull the sleeve the rest of the way on, tugging it snug, like a sock, pantihose, or condom. If you're a gay, don't do it with your mouth deepthroating the harness and definitively don't do it with your ass, do it the old boring vanilla way.
Dress the other end. If there's extra sleeve left, pull it back when dressing if you suspect you'll need more cables later. A thicker harness needs a a longer sleeve for the same length, remember the Chinese finger trap.
Personally, instead of zipties, I prefer to use double sided hook and loop (velcro) strips.
Pics later, I'm on the shitter, but something like this, see upper left: >>2762545

>>2762660
>>2762640
>>2762631
Thank you I would have definitely fucked up something along the way without your help
I'll stick to the epoxy for now, it seems the most feasible and safe relative what I'm attempting.

What in the actual fuck? I already tried to mess around with retraction settings but nothing seems to influence it.

>>2762815
>>2762797
More or less like so.
>inb4 why didn't you just use shrinkwrap
It's a bit of a pain to cut away without cutting the sleeve, and if you want to run or replace a cable now, it's very possible you'll want to run or replace another cable later.

>>2762547
You don't put the MUX on the printhead itself, but at the closest possible point (basically where you'd clip the reverse-bowden to the frame). The 3DChamelion has some residual idiocy (e.g. the stupid carriage-pushes-a-button-several-times interface) but still a much better option than the MMU or MMU clones like the Disgruntled Lagomorph.

>>2762818
Dry your filament

>>2762825
It's a completely fresh spool

>>2762465
it's for losers who can't afford an enclosure and still insist on printing in ABS despite other plastics being better.

>>2762820
This stuff works well if the cable bundle needs to have more added or removed. Is also great for cables that all ready have the ends attached.

>>2762827
Did I fucking stutter? Dry your filament. "Fresh" means fuck all when it comes to moisture content.

>>2762827
"completely fresh" by chinese standards means that it made it across the pacific ocean without being completely submerged more than 4 times.
The characteristic 'stringing', although yours is an extreme example, is caused nearly always by wet filament. From the picture you've shown us there's no reason to assume it's caused by anything else.
Dry the filament in a filament dryer or if you don't have one, set your oven to 50C and leave the plastic in there for 4-8 hours loosely wrapped in baking paper.
You come here asking for advice then reject the advice. Users of this website do not handle rejection well.

>>2762838
>>2762845
>reject the advice

Thanks, that wasn't my intention. Sorry that it came across this way.

thinking about trying to move all the electrical components (PSU, mainboard, control board, octopi) for my ender 3 to an external enclosure to get them out of my print enclosure, anyone know of any good models that look at combining those, potentially reusing the stock mainboard enclosure as a base?

Anyone done this and have any advice on things to do/avoid?

>>2762886
>Anyone done this and have any advice on things to do/avoid?
Yeah, I did.
You will have to extend wires. I hope you have some solder shrinks because those are really handy for this.
Get some thin wires, like 0.25-0.5mm^2 for signals, fans and stuff. 1.5mm^2 for the hotend and bed power.
>reusing the stock mainboard enclosure as a base
It will look like ass and it's metal so if you fuck up you can short something. If you're going to print something, have it entirely printed.
Also shitty cooling. Replace that loud piece of shit 40mm with a cheap 80mm and it will be better cooled and quieter.

>>2762886
I'm not sure it's worth the trouble. These cables were just long enough to go around. The top of the enclosure can be 30C hotter than the bottom.

>>2762897
good point on the downsides to reusing the mainboard enclosure, I suppose a better idea would be just finding something that puts everything into a rectangular configuration with a big fan on the front to blow across all of it.

I did figure I'd likely need to do some wire extensions if I wanted to go through with it, especially since I'm not sure where I'd want to put the enclosure relative to the printer just yet (currently just using creality's zip up fabric enclosure but I might look into building something more permanent in the future that stuff could mount onto the outside of).

Can nylon do overhangs? Even with 100% overhang fan speed shit is droopier than great grandma tits. Overture easy nylon @ 250c.

>>2762923
That's what supports are for, anon.

>>2762926
I'm wondering because doing temp tower tests gives droopy shit.

Anyone have a lack v2 enclosure with the prusa mk4? How do you like it/intresting upgrades ect...

>>2762923
>>2762927
nylon stuff gets its strength from cooling and the problem during printing is keeping the existing print from shrinking. What does the temp tower say about 220 or 230C?

>>2762820
Yeah, the first thing i tried to do was fold the frays back over the length to control it, but couldnt figure out how to make it stay put. I guess stitching a ziptie in and out of both layers might do the job, but it seems like a lot of effort.
I think the ideal thing to do would be to get a pipe of the right diameter and compress the sleeve - making it expand to maximum diameter - by shoving laterally onto the pipe. Maxumun sleeve diameter, minimum sleeve lenght. Then drop all the cables down the pipe and remove it while holding one end of the sleeve/cables.
I think i'll try 3dprinting a suitable contraption for that, the scale is viable for ~1m cables on small bundles.
Having connectors on is a hassle.
Another option is like what is used for cable pulling... bundle the ends and wrap them in a conical head attached to a rope/rod, and pull it through.
I think the tool i was thinking of was used to ease insertion of cable into those laterally split semi-rigid corrugated cable tubes. But surely theres a woven sleeve equivalent helper tool.

What do I do about this? This particular problem doesn't seem to appear on the "why did my print fail" link in the OP

It's PLA on a prusa mini

>>2763031
Should the tear-corner look the same as the normal-corner above it?
Bowden fed?

>>2763033
Yeah, it should be a clean corner all the way up. Bowden, yes.

>>2763035
Looks like some sort of pressure-advance (klipper term) issue. It's odd, but it seems that the semi-circular cutout on the left is making the corner work, and as soon as the cutout isnt on the same layer the corner fails.
Looks like the extruder isnt compensating for the filament delivery lag. Klipper calls it pressure advance.

And/or (seems less likely, but still related to filament delivery latency) maybe your bowden is applying friction to the filament. Is it anything but straight? ie: sometimes filament has some wiggles at the start, or when the spool is wound by dickheads.

>>2763031
>>2763038
2nd for Linear Advance / Pressure Advance issue, maybe retraction if LA/PA is not in use. That corner is where those outlines are starting and stopping. On the layers with that notch cutout, the start/stop is concealed in one of the interior corners. Both vertical edges visible look shit, but the cutout doesn't, I'm going with LA/PA.

>>2763038
>>2763044
Thanks anons

>>2763031
#rekt

>>2763031
What slicer? Custom profile or stock?

>>2763109
OrcaSlicer default profile

>>2763031
Seems like the extruder has some lag in starting.
That corner is probably the seam and the cutout has the slicer move the seam somewhere else. Most likely in a place where the time spent not extruding is smaller.
Are there any other spots on the print where this shows? Maybe not outright gaps but walls that are visibly thinner than they should be?
Or maybe some stringing in the lower part, before it got to the seam?

I don't remember exactly, but the prusa mini has a PTFE lined heatbreak, right? I think what might be happening is that molten filament is retracted into the heatbreak where it cools and sticks a bit. When the extruder tries to get going again it has to build up some pressure to get the cooled plastic to unstick.
I think a shorter retraction might help. If not, you need to get in there and see if the PTFE is cut straight and sits well against the nozzle.

>>2763038
Doubt it's a pressure advance issue as you can see corner bulging. If there is any pressure advance in play it's clearly not compensating enough. Gaps like that would happen if it overcompensates. It would also show up at most corners, and the cutout being there wouldn't do much.

>>2763031
>prusa
i found the problem.

>>2763122
>That corner is probably the seam and the cutout has the slicer move the seam somewhere else. Most likely in a place where the time spent not extruding is smaller.
Yeah it's the seam. And I see the same thing happening on the printed part where other seams are.
In pic related, on the outer wall seam, there's a section at the bottom where the seam is narrower, which printed properly.

>Are there any other spots on the print where this shows? Maybe not outright gaps but walls that are visibly thinner than they should be?
The walls are very consistent aside from these seam gaps.

>>2763132
what happens if you randomize z seam? I mean I'm curious if it gets little holes all over at each z stop.

>>2763134
I'll try it.

Also gonna try reducing retraction distance.

>>2763031
It just werks

Anyone with experience using PET CF or PC CF compared to PA12 CF. Looking for rigidity mostly. Not layer adhesion or impact strength.

>>2763134
>>2763135
randomized with default retraction length
I'll try a shorter retraction tomorrow.

>>2763178
forgot image

>>2763163
So you want plastics with the highest modulus of elasticity. Here's some numbers:
>PLA: 3.5GPa
>PA 12: 2.2GPa
>PETG: 2.2GPa
>PC: 2.3GPa

Also here's the absolute tensile strength while we're there:
>PLA: 50MPa
>PA 12: 58MPa
>PETG: 53MPa
>PC: 66MPa

All of that is data from here: https://www.makeitfrom.com/material-group/Thermoplastic
With no CF filling included, since I'm not sure what fill percentage is actually available for CF versions of those filaments.
So PC is slightly more rigid than PA 12, but PLA is significantly better than either, and not that much weaker. Way worse at impact resistance, but you said that didn't matter. PLA once again being the absolute best filament to ever use ever.
>inb4 temperature resistance

>about to pull the trigger on K1
>read about the new K1C version with improved hot end
>now anxious about an even better version coming out soon
FUCK, why do the chinks keep shitting out new versions instead of releasing upgrade kits?

>>2763031
>>2763122
>>2763179
I had a similar issue a while back with a custom profile for a 0.8mm nozzle. My custom profile layer height was way too high and reducing it fixed it but I never found out what ultimately caused it. I just figured I was approaching max flow rate.
pls report back if you fix it.

Damn, there isn't any easy way to get a filament sensor in this thing, is there?

>>2763232
This anon was right:
>>2763122
I cut the retraction distance in half from the default 3.2 to 1.6mm. Corner still looks rough but it's now "good enough".

Thanks bros.

>>2763179
swiss cheesed

>>2763295
it's fucking garbage. gj anon

>>2762031
Thanks for the tips. I've made a janky af ghetto enclosure. It cost me arou d $20 in materials. It's 27°C inside with the bed set to 80°C. Drying some ASA right now. Hopefully it will be enough with the bed at 100-110°C, if not i have a heatgun :-)

i broke the right earpiece of my porta pros so i modelled and printed a new one. feels gud man
originally i was going to make it hinge like the original part but it shattered when i tried to screw into it (much like the women i fuck) and i ran out of fucks to give
please forgive the half assed superglue

>>2763454
Absolutely based and beautiful.
>3d printed side looks better than the real one

>>2763454
Great work, anon.

>>2763454
i sort of have the inverse problem. the foam things on my headphones is destroyed and i was thinking about printing a little ear cup out of TPU but i think that might be retarded. but, bose doesn't make this set of headphones any more so i dunno how else i'd fix it

>>2763503
What headphones? There are generic headphone earpads/cushions in every size and style imaginable, and most are inexpensive. I've upgraded plenty of cheap headsets with $5-$10 big comfy foam pads.

>>2763506
i dunno, i dont have them on hand but yeah you're right you can just fuckin buy knockoffs i don't know why i didn't just assume that. shocking.

>>2763515
https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-earpad.html

I just got my first 3d printer I'm so happy!

>>2763682
Prepare for not being happy anymore for quite a while, but congrats. What did you get? Wanna share an unboxing? Have you been lurking or at least did you read the OP?

>>2763684
i got a neptune 4 pro i've printed 2 things so far and they have come out really good

>>2763223
Oh right I cut out a lot of my original post. I need it to not lose rigidity outside on a hot day. I know annealed PLA is great but cant be bothered to anneal and deal with accuracy issues.

>>2763682
Glad for you, anon. Have fun.

I want to print a firearm.
One shot is good enough.

Where do I find the model?

>>2763759

>>2763759
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1874020

>>2763787
I'm mad that there still isn't a file for printing out a ripper. At this point I'm getting the feeling that I'll have to do it myself.
Not really a huge cod fan, but it's a cool fucking gun.

>need to 3D print a thing to finish my coolass project
>too autistic and holding off because I'm waiting for the P1P enclosure kit to be in stock so I can clean and lube and build my printer and print in peace

I wish I wasn't like this but I am.

>>2763897
>Not printing an interim enclosure with the 3D printer for printing things like printable 3d printer closures with

does someone have the maomao file from bulkamancer? is this even the right thread for figures?

>>2763933
>>>/tg/3dpg/

How do you justify getting a 3d prnter? What do you guys usually print?

Is it worth grabbing one to print items such as deck boxes like pic related and the occasional battery cover? A deck box runs about $20 what would printing one cost?

>>2763953
I bought an ender three because 3d printing is cool, and there's a bunch of stuff that makes a lot more sense to make yourself than try and find sold elsewhere.

>>2763926
I don't like jank.

i have a ender 3 v2 that need a lot of work because ive moved and shit and its not kajiggering right. instead of ordering parts and fucking around with it id rather just buy a new printer.
is the p1s worth the money or is there something better for cheaper these days?

>>2763981
A lot of people will cry about how it phones home, but pretty much everything phones home these days. Even prusa.
For what you got for a p1x, they're well priced. And I'd personally just never hook it up to the internet. I like the idea of the built in monitoring, but I'd rather not ship whatever information is getting gleaned off to whoever is gleaning it.
Though it is also possible to block the phone home aspects of most anything

>>2763975
>I'd rather buy some injection-moulded plastic sheets than design and overbuild my own housing with additonal bracing and vibration damping
Sounds like you like jank and are lazy to me.

>>2763988
Post your P1P enclosure.

>>2763984
also looking around it seems creality's "answer" to the p1s is the k1 max. im going to go out on a limb and assume the k1 is just as much tinkering and fucking around with as the ender 3 v2.
am i correct on that assumption?

>>2764019
My ender three hasn't needed much tinkering just to make it work. My first prints were pretty great apart from settings, and then it was down to getting settings tuned in.
That being said I have no experience with a k1, or any corexy in general. So I can't arrest to any of the use case of a k1.

I just cut a big hole in the side of this fucker, bolted a chain to it, and shoved it full of wire.
Hnnnngggggg

Sooooo long overdue.

has anyone tried to or know of any attempts to make a no cut and purge filament change gcode whateveritscalled for the scambu ams? like using ramming or something to avoid needing such a large purge amount and the slow speed associated with it. trying to search for it only really comes up with questions from people having hardware issues, nothing like what im trying to find out. i know you can greatly reduce the purge amount with some tuning, but its still a comparatively very slow process, especially with multiple colors per layer and/or excessive switch counts.

>>2763971
What are usual costs after purchase and use? Is maintenance and refill expensive or relatively cheap? What do you usually do with yours?

>>2764042
Looks tidy, congrats!

>>2764188
>>ender 3
NTA but
>What are usual costs after purchase and use?
USD 150ish for the printer, depending on where you live could be more or less. Prima fascie it doesn't need much to start running.
>Is maintenance and refill expensive or relatively cheap?
>refill
Rolls of plastic filament are about USD10-20 per kg (in Freedom units, one thousande and five hundrede and fourty and three grains of wheat taken from the middle of the ear per dollar or two) depending on where you live and there are some other less-frequent consumables like nozzles and hotend cartridges.
>maintenance
When something breaks, take the opportunity to upgrade them for better options. For example, if (when) your hotend starts leaking all over, upgrade it for a better version, I swapped mine for an E3D v6 and a bimetal heatbreak.
>What do you usually do with yours?
Curse at China, curse at the elitist bearded retards from Prusa who won't make entry-level printers accessible so hobbyists have to resort to China, curse at myself for not buying a Prusa, print upgrades for the printer, and now and then some keychain fob or missing chess piece.

>inb4 but that sounds like an awful amount of work
Get a Prusa
>inb4 but they are too expensive, isn't there something in the middle?
Sure, be ready to spend almost as much as for a Prusa for something not really better than an Ender 3.
>inb4 Fuck that, I'll make one myself
That may be unironically the best choice if you're ready to learn.

Added a custom 3D phone holder to my Celestron 130 EQ telescope so my phone cam act as a starfinder.

1/2 of the mount.

>>2764291
2/2

>>2764269
>inb4 Fuck that, I'll make one myself
>That may be unironically the best choice if you're ready to learn.

It's a great approach assuming you have the tools to do it. Otherwise it's going to get really expensive really quickly. On the other hand you will have those tools in the future for more diy chadness.

>>2764292
And then added a 3d printed low profile lens holder (to allow for a DSLR) to find focus, and a stepper motor attached to a 10k potentiometer and arduino board to a motorized the focal adjustment. This allows me to make very minor adjustments to the focus without touching (aka wobbling) the telescope. All the plastic seen in pic is printed

Okay anons I am experiencing some bullshit.

Week ago a print failed, I didnt even bother to see what the error was,

>machine
kp3s pro, running klipper, mangoPI (h616), at the time stock controller board (v1.3 based off of the robin nano board)

>mods
I removed resistors and bridged pads to use UART, I also removed resistor or something to one of the jst pins so I an use serial instead of running usb to the outside of the machine for klipper been like this for months.

>problem
Extruder motor behaves erratically jitters and some moves from gcode it will behave somewhat normally and other times it will behave erratically.

>what troubleshooting I have done
First and foremost I grabbed another pancake nema17 to test, and same behavior, this motor was running perfectly fine prior, I had it in my voron trident, but switched to clockwork 2 to use the new nitehawk-sb board.

I also tried a different cable with the original motor and the test motor, problem still persists.

At this point I assumed it was my controller board, I mean I havent made any software changes in months. so I grabbed a skr pico, put it inside my kp3s. PROBLEM STILL PERSISTS ON BOTH THE STOCK MOTOR AND THE TEST MOTOR.

Repeated same thing using the original cable and a different cable, problem still persists.

At the point I figure maybe SBC somehow is causing it.

I grab a orange pi zero 2w, install eveything, setup config, PROBLEM STILL PERSISTS!!!!!!

What the fuck do I even do at this point?!?!

BTW just to be certain I even took an old ender 3 motor and tried it, problem is still there. I am honestly at the end of my ropes right now. What else is there to check???

I hope god smites China
>Let filament run out during print
>Pop up says replace spool in AMS and press resume
>Replace spool in AMS, press resume
>Printer is kicking off saying I need to feed from the external holder
>Don't even have the external spool holder attached
Fucking why? I thought this shit was meant to be simple?

>>2764305
Un-ironically worked on my computer. Sounds like your shit got a bug.

>>2764306
Its now wanting me to unload the filament but I can't as its took the length I put in past the point of no return. It wont let me extrude it out either. I have 18m left on this print why now

>>2764299
try printing old gcode from before the problem started
maybe some settings in the slicer are wrong.
Next, set the speed settings in mainsail (assuming you're using mainsail) to 10% and see if that helps.
If it does, your slicer has the wrong settings.
You've said you swapped all the hardware and put a new klipper on. All that's left is the slicer and gcode.

>>2764314
serves you right for giving money to the CCP
I hope your printer never works again

>>2764319
+1ml of beard oil has been deposited in your account

>>2764314
Give it some time to process. It took mine a minute to recognize the new spool.

>>2764299
>>2764318

Update: Anon you're not going to believe this, my motor is fine, I am such an idiot, after all of this I just don't think I deserve to have 3d printers. when I plugged the original cable back into the motor and controller board I pushed the wires in so the pins had more contact, some of them looked raised and less contact to the pins, and everything is good now. I wasted the whole weekend for a simply pin needing to be pushed back down

also,
>different cable I tested, I didnt noticed the two center wires were crossed, so I was essentially doing (2A,1B),(2B,1A)

which gave similar behavior.

ffs now I have a kp3s pro with a skr pico now. Fuck it, I am keeping it like this, I can use the stock board as backup for my other kp3s.

>>2764348
well fuck its doing it again! IDK anymore Im about to give up, lmao.

>>2764348
Have you changed the cables?

>>2763933
>>2763948
Feels like /tg/3dpg/ isn't really the right place for that either. I'm tempted to sort through all of the bullshit I gather and make a /t/ thread for 3d print figure piracy. The main place this happens is Telegram and it's fucking cancer filled with thirdies and people with generally shit taste.

>>2764133
no, but as with any gcode macro:
- look at existing similar macros
- step through the desired process by issuing commands on console
- paste into file and refine method and digits
- repeat till adequate.

>>2764459
>people with generally shit taste
said the figuring printer; highest form of worthless derivative hotgluing faggot

>>2764424
I am in the process now, Its removed but I dont see any visual damage or anything that says its a bad cable.

>>2764474
Not that dude but outside of figures and other props there's really not much else as paid 3D models
I know there are some RC aircraft meant for 3D printing and this fancy bow magazine but that's about it.

>>2764474
Funny thing is I have close to 600 GB of that shit but haven't printed but 1 or 2 things and got bored of it. It's just compulsive file hoarding now

Its worthless faggotry, archive it offline till you grow enough to realise it's pinnacle-embarrassing and delete it out of disgust.

If you aren't channelling your inner mad-scientist to design and print wild shit that gets superseded by an improved design before you even finish printing the prior one, and you aren't striving maniacally to always have another design or test print ready to print before the bed gets cold... then you are insulting your ancestors, and everyone born pre-stratasys who had amazing ideas but just lacked the wood/metal skills and extensive list of tools required to actually pursue those ideas.

Disregard simpery and idolatry, embrace ingenuity and creativity.

>>2764508
>t. bad at design, no patience, doesn't realize creation for creation's sake is pleb tier

today I learned that the PTO board was very impressed with "a boat" that was the first print on a new 3D printer the art teacher bought. literally NOTHING you do has any meaning.

>>2763953
the cost is pennies if you ignore the initial cost of the printer.

>>2764539
>PTO board
>normie parents artificially elevating themselves to a corporate title
Of course they are impressed, thats their job; to be encouraging and positive about anything whatsoever that related so their childrens education.

Admittedly I was being humorous re: the manic mad scientist part, but that truly is an aspect of it too. But to own a 3d printer and disagree that it's inherently impressive indicates that you aren't as objective as you think. The potential for interesting and impressive shit that can be 3d printed is extremely cool... we just have too many dumbasses only ever printing stupid cosplay shit they didnt even design, and not really engaging in 3d printing as a skillset, or invention leverage.
It's not creating for its own sake; its iterative learning and the basis of the place that genius ideas evolve.
Stop cooming on figurines, the intellectual property of which you basically stole, and it should become self apparent.

anyone here printing peek, or other absurd meme materials? is there any reason to build a printer that can do this instead of just making moulds for fibreglass or carbon fibre and resin?

>>2764617
>pic rel
No.

>>2764617
>anyone here printing peek, or other absurd meme materials?

Doubt it, we're all broke.

>is there any reason to build a printer that can do this instead of just making moulds for fibreglass or carbon fibre and resin?

Impossible geometries only additive manufacturing can accomplish, so extreme fringe cases that would only come up in bleeding edge tech bullshit.

>>2764508
tfw I have 6 printers and half of them are used nearly around the clock. I am impatient as fuck, and want the prints to be done now

one down side is that 2 printers, a voron v0.1, and a kingroon kp3s bed size are normally too small for a lot of prints.

I'm tired of dealing with my old prusa mini's bowden bullshit so I've decided it's finally time to upgrade.
I'm probably looking at either the bambu P1S or the elegoo neptune 4 pro. The former is obviously nicer and double the cost, but the way I feel with 3D printing is the technology moves so fast that I'd rather get a $300 one now and then a $300 one again in a few years because the tech is just moving so fast right now and the baseline features and quality per dollar is always going down.

I know the bambu stuff is pretty much flawless at this point, but does anyone have experience with the Neptune 4? I have only really seen positive stuff about it but it kind of feels too good to be true at its price point.

>>2764628
If you're already down the cheapskate hole, why not a used machine and the rest into upgrades?

>>2764632
The idea is more that I want to be able to upgrade down the line without feeling like I wasted too much money. With tools and machines and stuff I normally like to just get something really nice once I know it's something I'm going to really be using so I don't have to buy it again, but with a technology that's constantly advancing I just don't want to spend too much now because if the past few years are anything to go by the next few are gonna continue to really level things up and it'll be worth upgrading again.

>>2764634
>I just don't want to spend too much now
So why not just upgrade the prusa instead?
V6 + BMG/Titan + stepper should be around 50-60$. The only other thing you can get for this money is a used ender 3.

>>2764661
Because it's a mini and all the problems come from it being a bowden

>>2764663
The parts I suggested completely remove bowden tubes from the picture.

>>2764665
Oh I didn't think direct drive on a mini was really plausible. I'll look into those and see what I think, thanks.

>>2764269
Appreciate it pal have been searching through several posts and vids on this Prusa and thanks for the advice. Might save up to get the enclosed model to avoid having to fidget around chinkshit

I’ve also looked at diy and seems like a pain in the ass I’ll just take your advice and go straight for a Prusa since it looks like a hassle

>>2764663
>>2764667
Look into a double Z mod. It'll allow much more weight to pack onto your x axis. Dunno about the V6, wouldn't do that. Titan is pretty straightforward though. Look into hummingbird extruder if you prefer a bit more tinkering or just large gear.

>>2764667
Of course it's possible, it's a printer like any other.

>>2764709
>a double Z mod
That's going overboard if you ask me.
The mini comes with rods already so there's not much to gain from that. If it was some V roller trash it would be justified.

>Dunno about the V6, wouldn't do that
Why not? The stock parts are already V6 based. V6 makes the most sense in this situation. It's a reliable all metal hotend with low heat creep, perfect for a smaller machine that won't print big or fast. Some of the stock parts can then be used as spares if needed.

If there would be something to object to here, it would be my choice of extruder. BMG and Titan are the kings of reliability and consistency. Unfortunately they are also on the heavier side, owing to them using a full sized stepper.
Maybe something like an orbiter would make more sense, as it's lighter. Don't know how reliable it would be though.

>current year
>current day
>well this idea might take some face editing, maybe i'll try freecad instead of openscad for this
>install freecad
>sketch
>tehee, a circle can only be centered in the 2023 version
>deinstall again
Amazing.
>bruteforce in openscad only takes 3minutes to render
Great success!

>>2764728
>a double Z mod
>That's going overboard if you ask me.
How so? Remove all binding issues in one sweep. We're not talking a Minion here, Mini's do have very noticeable flex and it already shows on default speeds.
>V6
Stock works fine, even if it's PTFE lined. So it's just a nice to have, not really needed in my book.
>If there would be something to object to here, it would be my choice of extruder.
I mentioned a hummingbird extruder..
>BMG and Titan are the kings of reliability and consistency.
I am getting confused, are you trying to recommend original or ali parts here? As original would make the V6 alone more expensive than aforementioned whole dual z mod and ali titans.. well they don't need another comment.
I agree an orbiter is probably still the best do it all solution.

>>2764796
>Stock works fine, even if it's PTFE lined
The dude said PTFE fuckery is driving him up the wall.
As someone who has an Ender 3, I know what it's like, so I can't not take him seriously.
>hummingbird
Creality dogshit.
Orbiter or Sherpa mini are better designs.
>are you trying to recommend original or ali parts here?
Ali, of course. If you're actually buying original parts in anno domni 2024 you're an absolute fool.

>>2764800
Bowden != PTFE lining.

https://www.printables.com/model/367706-hummingbird-extruder

>>2764801
If you're going to upgrade then there's no reason not to get rid of that last piece of PTFE which is also the most failure prone part of the system.

>>2764812
>PTFE which is also the most failure prone part of the system
Stop fucking your printer.

>>2764820
Instructions unclear: dick stuck in your mom.

>>2764812
If you're going to upgrade then there's no reason not to get rid of that last piece of PTFE
I guess, probably more so when putting greater effort into a DD printhead. Then again the remaining PTFE liners at our maker space are doing just fine, certainly not getting affiliated with bowden related issues.
I looked around the current options and Titan and BMG are now even more obsolete than discussion worthy. Think we can agree to put those off the list at least.

>>2764829
>Titan and BMG are now even more obsolete than discussion worthy
Not the best choice for a small printer, sure, but obsolete? Yeah, right.
They are old designs and stuck around because they're very good at their job.
The extruders that are waiting in line to replace them are for the most part half baked abortions made by thingiverse autists.
Bondtech's LGX is the only new generation extruder on the market that isn't an eternal WIP hobby project.

>>2764833
This
My titan aero is an absolute unit and I highly doubt any of the newer extruders can do much better.
Also vorons tongue my anus.

>Bondtech's LGX is the only new generation extruder on the market that isn't an eternal WIP hobby project.
Your attitude is showing, enjoy your bubble.

>>2764728
>Of course it's possible, it's a printer like any other.
I've just seen people say it adds too much weight to the one sided X arm

I asked a week or so ago but forgot to check if anyone replied...

I saw a PR on klipper to allow an existing TTY connection, i.e. to allow a Mosaic Palette 3 Pro to handle the printer in Connected Mode. Has anyone had any luck getting this to work?

I've got a Raspberry Pi 4B that's connected to a BTT SKR Mini E3 V3, through UART on PA2/PA3 and the Palette takes a USB connection to the Pi. I cannot seem to get the mainboard to be recognized by klipper, regardless of whether I added the modified klippy.py or not on ttyAMA0.

>>2764488
Torrent that shit out nigga

>>2760822
>a round drum with cheese grater holes and an arm that sweeps the plastic against the inside of the drum.
so like
a meatgrinder?

>>2764925
More like an industrial potato peeler type thing by the sound of it.

Finished my diy filament dryer using a kmart food dehydrator.
First bit on the left is kind of shit but i'm new to cad and once it got to functionally complete i didn't want to screw it up trying to get it looking better, by the end got a bit better and quicker in fusion360.