/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2753867
>Foureyes
>shuanboyd
>blacktail
>Ramsey
>Alm
How about you fucking shit your bones out your rectum like these losers aught to?

I also have a shoulder plane by Spiers

>>2753872
If you have other suggestions, I'm sure whoever makes the OP next time will be glad to add them.

>>2753867
Thanks OP, I was about to start it.
Hey Anon! Are you a poorfag and want to get started converting lumber into sawdust and making stuff?

Get these things used:

claw hammer
old corded drill
flat head screwdriver
Phillip head screwdriver
tape measure
hacksaw
clamps (4 or more)
speed square
wood rasp (the kind with changeable blades)

Get these things new:
hand saw
drill bits
coarse hacksaw blades.
1/2 inch chisel
wood glue
nails
screws
sandpaper
rasp blades

Scrounge up free or cheap lumber and start building things with nails, screws and/or glue.
If you use pallet wood, make sure it is marked ‘HT’ (heat treated).

Build pair of sawhorses with a work top or a sawbench

Then make a wooden mallet

Find some more free wood and build boxes and crap to organize your stuff.

Get a book/video on beginning woodworking and start learning terms and stuff.

Build some more simple things and work on accuracy and appearance.

Then start figuring out what type of bench is within your budget and skill level.

(real woodworkers are welcome to make suggestions or disparaging comments about the list.)

Someone else's more advanced list.

basic wood tools
Combination square
Sliding bevel
Marking gauge
Framing square
Steel tape (10' or 12')
Folding rule
Compass
Scratch awl

Crosscut saw (12 pt.)
Rip saw (6 [fraction "1" "2"] or 7 [fraction "1" "2"] pt.)
Backsaw or dovetail saw (15 tpi)
Coping saw
Hacksaw
Slip-joint pliers
Needle-nose pliers
Diagonal cutters

Smooth plane
Low-angle block plane
Wood chisels ([fraction "1" "4"]", [fraction "1" "2"]", [fraction "3" "4"]", 1")
Single-cut mill bastard file
Round rasp
Flat rasp
Cabinet scraper and hand scrapers
Utility knife

Claw hammer (16 oz.)
Finish hammer (8 oz.)
Nail set
Wooden mallet
Screwdrivers (straight, Phillips)
Doweling jig
Bench vise or clamping system
Bar or pipe clamps (2-3' and 2-5' min.)
Handscrews
C-clamps

Face shield or safety glasses
Hearing protector
Dust mask or respirator
Sharpening stone (dual-purpose, coarse/fine)

Router (1 hp, [fraction "1" "4"]" collet) Purchase bits as needed; bead, chamfer, cove, straight, round-over, rabbet.
Circular saw (7 1/4")
Drill (3/8" variable speed)
Twist drills ([fraction "1" "16"]-[fraction "3" "8"]")
Spade-shaped drill bits
Brad-point drill bits
Jigsaw
Dual-action pad sander (straight-line and orbital)
Belt sander (3X21" with dust collection)
---
Panel saws come in two tooth configurations: “Rip” (cuts along the grain…like a chisel) and “Cross Cut” (cuts across the grain…like a knife). You will need both.

---

1 of 2

>>2753910

2 of 2

Sturdy Workbench (self-made or purchased)
No. 5 Jack Plane or No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane
Block plane (low angle is better)
Panel Saw (Rip teeth)
Panel Saw (Cross-cut teeth)
Dovetail Saw (Rip-cut toothed)
Carcass Saw (Cross-cut toothed)
Tenon Saw (Rip-cut toothed)
Miter box and miter saw
Coping Saw
Bevel edge bench chisels
1/4″ Mortising chisel
6″ Combination Square

12″ Try Square
Sliding Bevel Square / Gauge
Dividers / Compass (2+ pair)
Marking gauge
Folding Rule and/or Tape measure
Marking knife
Power or Hand Grinder w/ cool wheel
Honing wet stones
Diamond Lapping Plate (or Sandpaper on Melamine)
Wood mallet
Large Shoulder Plane
Clamps (10″ Hand Screw, Parallel clamps)
Wood or hide glue

My shop can experience significant changes in humidity. Would it be a silly idea to rebuild my crosscut sled using a sheet of acrylic rather than plywood?

My parents have an awesome, huge (16" x 30") cutting board that was custom-made from a tree that fell on their house (as revenge)
Since it's so big, it lives in the laundry room and it never gets brought out or used, and I think that's a crying shame
But where else can you store a cutting board that large and also easily pull it out to use it? Any ideas?

>>2753982
why not just let it live on the counter top permanently. i always use the big cutting board on the counter when making a sandwich or snack. its easier to clean up than the whole counter top every time.

>>2753982
Put 2 small hooks on the back wall and store it sideways. It’s probably the tree taking revenge living rent free in their house without being useful

>>2753910
>>2753913
>>2753914
How about buying the stuff you need, when you need it. Lists like these are a good way to lose all your money and shop space before even getting started. Many professional woodworkers don’t use half of these tools more than once a year.

Cheap cross cut saw, square, pencil, make your first bench and go from there

>slap a sharpened plane blade to a triangular piece of wood
>run it over some lumber
>either digs in hard or refuses to take out any wood
why doesn't it work

>>2754180
Post a picture of whatever it is you're doing, it sounds hilarious

>>2754183
https://files.catbox.moe/q1urq6.jpg
trying to take some gunk off this piece of wood

>>2754105
This. Makes no sense to buy tools or even consider lists independently of knowing what actual products you will be making or the procedures involved.

There's a few initial processes related to sizing/ milling raw materials that are common to lots of woodwork, but many of them are common enough that you can get materials that are already processed and work with stock sizes or take advantage of things like panel saws at the store until you absolutely need something else.

If you're on a budget you can work smart and get by with almost nothing...one important tool none of the lists above mentions is a quality 4' aluminum straightedge...doesn't even have to be ruled. With that and a combo or speed square you can eliminate a framing square for shop work, and it can also double as a saw and knife guide and for laying out lines to plane to when doing edges. Just like prep is a huge part of painting, layout is a huge part of woodworking and if you are doing any kind of casework/furniture or related procedures a good long straightedge is crucial for layout, including making jigs and fixtures, and can even serve as a jig when clamped down.

>>2754236
You've missed the mark somewhat with your plane-like object. You would have better results simply by holding the iron at 90 degrees to the board and scraping. A cheap No. 5 would also be a good idea

>>2754236
I should have mentioned, if you're really invested in doing it your way- make the body with the long grain on the sole, not the end grain. Make sure the iron beds flat against the frog. Flip the iron so the bevel is down.

>>2754280
>make the body with the long grain on the sole, not the end grain
why does it matter
i don't think the angle is big enough for bevel down to be effective
am i also missing the mark with the front piece there must be a reason the blade in the planes always peek out of a slit instead of being in front of the tool

>>2754289
You'll have a harder time getting the sole flat, and a harder time pushing it, with your configuration. Look at at any wooden plane in the world and you'll see how they orient the grain. You would do well to follow that example. If the blade is bedded at about 45 degrees, you can place the iron bevel down and be fine. This is how all modern bench planes are set up, with a few exceptions. Part of the reason that most planes, except chisel planes, have a front part of the body, which you are lacking here, is that it gives you more control, and it enables you to make a finer cut. The tightness of that throat will in part determine the class of work that the tool can accomplish. I will also point out that if you managed to get that thing to cut, you will tear out the wood badly.

>>2754293
yeah something has to hold the layer down as it gets 'peeled'

Help
How do I learn about tools and everything I would find in a hardware store? Im taking a carpentry course, is very superficial, Im getting used to some tools but is not enough for me to go to a hardware store without looking like an idiot, I dont know most of what Im looking at. Ive never done any manual labor before

>>2754451
Why is it important for you to know what you're looking at in a hardware store?

>>2754475
Why wouldnt I? Besides not wanting to look like an idiot there could be tools that could make my life easier and I wouldnt know about their existence and I would keep doing things the hard way or not do them

>>2754486
Not knowing what a tool is used for means you're an idiot?

> there could be tools that could make my life easier and I wouldnt know about their existence and I would keep doing things the hard way or not do them
Those are the things you'll come across naturally. I wouldn't sweat it. Buying every new fancy tool or overhyped jig you find is a great way to burn a hole in your wallet.

>>2754451
Learn about them by actually using them
You can learn names of stuff and what you might use them for through Youtube but you'll never learn how to use them without doing stuff with them

I'm making wall cabinets out of plywood for my workshop. pic related is a model with heavily exaggerated thicknesses just to illustrate the construction. from what I've read this is the best way to make a cabinet.

I'll route channels to hold the top and bottom in place (the bottom is obviously my concern, don't want it falling out randomly). the rear rails will be pocket screwed into the sides (maybe also glued). obviously my model is missing the back, but it'll be 1/4 plywood or something. I will screw through the back, through the rails, into a stud. will this be sturdy enough to not fall off and kill me? they're going over my desk and will hold various equipment and tools, soldering stuff, all manner of /diy/ items plus books on the very top.

I want the top, bottom, and sides to be 3/4" plywood, but is this overkill? Could I get away with 1/2"? I want enough wood there for the channel to support the bottom wall.

what's the best option to finish the inside of a drawer? it'll be holding clothing so I don't want anything that will stain, discolor, or transfer odors to my clothes. I could leave it as raw wood, but I'm concerned about any treatment chemicals leaching into the clothing.
I thought a simple brush or spray poly would probably work best with plenty of time to cure outside before use, but I'd prefer some kind of oil or otherwise more "natural" product.

>>2755046
Lots of professional drawers (e.g. ethan allan) are just lined with plain wood, as far as I’m aware.
Just sand it, raise the grain with water and sand again.
I wouldn’t use any wax or oil.
If you’re fixated on finishing it with something because of internet fads, polyurethane is probably your best bet.

>hand tools are quieter than machines says he as he hammers away at his chisel

How do I patent screwless joints

>>2755045
This is exactly what I do and they have never fallen off. I use 3/4 pine boards and I screw into studs using screw washers helps. I also add a ledger strip under the bottom shelf as added support to the unit. These shelves hold a lot of metal planes and I have never had a problem.
Don't use 1/2"

>>2755390
Here's a pic. Dadoed the shelves in, supports added and screwed into the studs. Roofing pine boards are cheaper than plywood, in my area.

>>2755397
>>2755390
>>2755045
Are you not concerned about the perpendicular stress on the pocket screws?

>>2755433
>>2755433
Not at all. Those are many #10 3" wood screws with washers into studs. I've never had a problem. It takes a lot of shear force for the screws to fail.

>>2755433
>>2755441
nta but dumbass question here: is there a point at which a stud is "spent" due to being riddled with screws throughout the years and can't provide any more retention strength?

>>2755447
Yes, for sure. Having too many screws or nails close together will reduce the integrity of the wood. It's something to we aware of in construction especially with the common use of nail guns. There is no problem in this application with the spacing I used. I've done some renovations where I've removed 2x4 studs that were destroyed with drywall screws by some over zealous DIY'er.

>>2755457
>we aware of in construction especially with the common use of nail guns
>2x4 studs that were destroyed with drywall screws
Good to know, thanks for the info. I'm in education, not construction, so I don't know anything about practical woodworking. Mostly just furniture-making.

>>2755095
>internet fads
retard

>>2754105
>>2754256
To a beginner it's helpful to know what tools exist, and what are they named to find them.
Definitely worth it to familiarize yourself with the existing tools and their uses.

>>2753867
https://www.youtube.com/@EpicUpCycling/videos

Another pallet-meme youtuber but he actually makes nice shit and he also doesnt talk.

bench bump

>tfw a deep red hardwood is kicking the shit out of your tools
is it ok to make a mallet out of this
also i just learned splinters arent a thing with softwood

>>2755046
shellac. dries in minutes, after that no odor and no of gassing solvents. its cheap, will probably cost you a whopping dollar.
anything with linsneed oil will stink for years inside a closet, and there is no sane reason for poly either

>>2756349
shellac of just leave it raw. If there is a pine knot you might want to seal it with shellac.

Making a birthday present for the GF, it's a wall thing to hang her tech made to her specs.

She wants the back panel to be a certain pink color. It's her favorite spray paint basically, and she's painted a bunch of things with it.
I usually use wood or mdf / hardboard for back panels. From my quick research it looks like spray paint doesn't work well with these materials.
Anyone have any suggestions either for a sheet material that I can both find easily and can spray paint, or for a way to cover a mdf / hardboard panel with _something_ that can be easily spray painted?

I have leftover aluminum flashing in the garage. I was thinking adhering that to the mdf might work but it might also just look like shit.

>>2757036
scuff the mdf first and use a good primer, should work just fine

>>2757036
You're a good boyfriend and your girlfriend sounds like she has some very neat hobbies. I hope your project for her turns out well.

I'm thinking of buying this. It's the BOSCH RA1181. Would /wwg/ recommend an alternative in the same category?

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6

>>2757187
I'm also considering this. Comes with a fixed router as well, but it's quite a bit cheaper and much less popular.

https://www.amazon.com/RT1323-01-Router-Table-10Amp-Fixed/dp/B09FPBFQSX/

>>2757189
damm thats tiny i thought it was big shaper table

>>2757190
Nah, they're both little benchtop models, which is what I'm looking for right now.

>>2757036
Shellac or oil based primer sealer. Then paint. Your mdf and hardboards are paint grade, but they'll drink a waterbased product before it dries.

>>2757036
Spray paint works very well on MDF if you use the right primer. Check if the spray paint is alkyd or acrylic and get and get MDF primer for alkyd or acrylic paint. If you have exposed edges that you’re spraying use edge sealer or 2 coats of primer in those. I’ve done lots of cabinet doors this way

Didn't wanna waste space with its own thread. I wanna start making perches for my parakeets. It'll be mostly manzanita branches and dowels (Balsa, Poplar, Ash, Elm, Maple, Birch)
I live in a small apartment in a major city. Don’t have room for power tools. Not a large budget.
What type of handsaw can I use to cut the small .1/2” branches/dowel without splitting them? Seems like a lot of handsaws don’t offer that level of precision.

>>2757339
>What type of handsaw

coping saw
hacksaw
you can just buy the blades at the dollar store, and wrap one side with masking tape to hold it.

>>2757339
Any small saw would work. The trick is you have to be gentle and not have excessive weight on both sides. Personally use a pull saw.

>>2757361
Second a pull saw. You can buy a little tiny one that'll give you lots of control, or you can buy a larger one that's sturdier. With softer woods it probably won't matter.

>>2757339
Another thing is that green wood (ie it hasn't fully dried out yet) can be annoying to work with.

As someone with absolutely zero tools and no power run to my woodworking space, where would you suggest I get hand tools from? Something as shitty as Harbour Freight since who knows if I'll even pursue this hobby long term? Estate sales or garage sales trying to find something used but decent and cheap? Or just Lowes/Home Depot shit?

>>2757453
What kind of hand tools? That's informed by what you want to build and the kind of woodworking you see yourself doing.

I should let you know that hand tool woodworking is very different from power tool woodworking. Hand tool-only people tend to be a little dogmatic about the whole thing.

If power is your limiting factor, you could get pretty far with cordless. Both Dewalt and Milwaukee have battery-operated table saws. Can't vouch for them since I went with the corded 7485, but they exist and I've heard okay things. Trim routers, circs, sanders, etc., are a dime a dozen.

>>2757453
Do you want hand tools as in classic artisan woodworking or just shit that gets the job done? That makes a lot of difference. If you want to make plywood storage boxes or a bed frame or whatever, the $20 Irwin hand saw and a decent cordless set (dewalt milwauke ryjobi whatever) are just fine. But if you want to hand plane hardwood to perfection and make dovetails etc you’d want specialty stuff. Dont buy fine woodworking stuff like hand planes, chisels or fine saws from home depot, get them at estate sales or specialised shops. But the things modern woodworkers still use like screwdrivers, squares, battery tools etc are fine.

>>2757460
> Hand tool-only people tend to be a little dogmatic about the whole thing.
This is true but isn’t this a really small minority? Even many ‘hand tool only’ guys on YouTube admit that they use routers or bandsaws for big jobs, there’s only a handful of autists that absolutely insists on using brace and bit, frame saws and spokeshaves instead

>>2757460
Anything ranging from cutting boards to a big L shaped desk. Basic woodworking and, ideally, fine woodworking. I don't plan on using just hand tools. I'm just a poorfag that needs to save a bit to get power run.

>>2757470
That was kind of what I figured. Only issue is I live in a relatively rural area. I haven't been on facebook in a decade but I guess that's gonna be my best option to find estate and garage sales.

>>2757497
What's preventing you from running power? Are extension cables not adequate? What about a generator?

Depending on the kinds of cutting boards you want to make, you'll need some basics in the way of power tools, including a table saw for consistently clean, straight edges, a router sled or planer for smoothing and thicknessing stock, and a router for chamfers or bevels. Here's a basic rundown for building a cutting board:

> Select, joint, and plane your stock to the appropriate thickness
> Cut your boards to size
> Glue up
> Plane again to remove any glue lines
> Apply any bevels or chamfers
> Sand down
> Oil / finish

Yes, it's possible to do all of these tasks by hand. You can mill your boards with a #4 planer, you can cut your boards with a hand saw, you can block plane the chamfer, and you can hand sand from 80 to 220+. But you have to consider the time sunk into doing all that shit by hand versus shelling out for some power tools and turning a 20-hour job into 2 hours.

As I mentioned before, battery-operated tools will get you pretty far until you're able to run power to your shop.

>>2757187
>>2757187
I've been deliberating on this all day. My new plan is to pick up a JessEm router lift and build a frame for it out of construction lumber or plywood. The aluminum plate, unlike MDF or ply, is dimensionally stable and won't warp with humidity. It's also plenty long enough for most things I'll be running through it, so there's no need to build an extension table for it.

https://www.amazon.com/JessEm-Rout-R-Lift-Router-Diameter-Motors/dp/B004U7B6IE/

So, my new question is this: will I outgrow the JessEm router lift? The JessEm lift has five models for different motor diameters. The more expensive JessEm master lift can accommodate a range of diameters. Will I realistically need more than the 2.25 HP that the Bosch 1617evs can provide, or will I be fine not spending another $170 on the master lift?

>>2757533
Was going to recommend one of those anyway, the legs in >>2757187 only get in the way if you can make your own table
What jobs do you plan to do with it? 2.5hp is already quite a bit, are you going to pig big T slots in hard slabs in the future? If not I’d go with the base model.

Also
> The aluminum plate, unlike MDF or ply, is dimensionally stable and won't warp with humidity
I think if your shop gets so humid that a screwed down sheet of ply that size warps then you have other problems.

>>2757533
>>2757533
I've uses something similar, the Kreg plate, for years and tuned out lots of stuff. If you are seriously into production work then a shaper is the way to go. This unit will not otherwise limit your work.

>>2757696
I am into production work, but generally not on pieces that require heavy router work. Glad to know the Bosch will satisfy, at least for now.

What table did you end up making/purchasing for the Kreg plate?

>>2757673
>I think if your shop gets so humid that a screwed down sheet of ply that size warps then you have other problems.
Point taken. Maybe I'm just paranoid about my jigs warping over time.

>>2757708
What table did you end up making/purchasing for the Kreg plate?

I have the Bosch also. I built a table between the rails on my table saw.

>>2757533
I have the router lift 2 and a kreg prs5000 the kreg fits everything and is less than the mast-r-lift.
Having said that I have a porter cable 890 and a bosch 1617evs in each lift and never need anything bigger than that.
Check the reviews on the 3hp routers they aren't good unless you can find a porter cable 3hp router motor. 7518 i think.
The Triton 3hp router is a lift and router built in to one but it's plastic as shit.

What type of adhesive would you use for brass inlays on wood?

>>2758351
CA glue or epoxy. CA is very cheap in small quantities, dries almost instantly but is a pain to work with. Epoxy pretty much the opposite, but also allows for bigger gap and is stronger. Roughly sand the surface for best results

>>2758355
Thanks, I was leaning toward CA or contact cement.

>allows for bigger gap
What do you mean?

Got a really ugly cutting board from work for christmas. It had mold/rot in the grain, woodworm holes at the edges and the handle shape was eyeballed by a one eyed guy with a bandsaw. So I cut it into strips and glued it together and cut it across way and glued it back together to make the meme end grain cutting board like the YouTube guys. Hope I can plane this without too much trouble. Any suggestions on what wood species this is would be much appreciated. I thought oak but our regional oak looks different and it doesn’t smell like oak at all

>>2758358
Epoxy dries so hard that if you have an 1/8” gap between the wood and the inlay for some reason it will still make a strong connection. CA bonds well when clamped well but if the space it has to fill is more than 1/64” (maybe 1/32”) it becomes this brittle weak plastic that chips away easily.

For inlays I guess it only really matters when the inlay goes all the way through or the surface below the inlay is very rough. Contact cement btw is used for many kinds of glue, sometimes it’s rubber sometimes it’s neoprene sometimes it’s silicone or even CA depending on where you buy it

>>2758372
>Contact cement btw is used for many kinds of glue, sometimes it’s rubber sometimes it’s neoprene sometimes it’s silicone or even CA depending on where you buy it
Interesting, I didn't know that. Thanks.

The surface below the inlay will be as smooth as a 1/8th kerf FTG table saw blade will get it, which is macroscopically pretty smooth but microscopically probably very rough when it comes to CA. I've seen people using epoxy for brass inlays, so I'll probably just pick up some quick set epoxy and use that.

>>2758362
Looks to be diffuse porous so it's not oak, which is ring porous. Is this worth salvaging?

>>2758418
I’m not an expert but it looks ring porous when I compare to pictures of the two

> Is this worth salvaging?
We don’t get many different hardwoods here (mainly just beach ash oak ipe and FSC whatever), so it would be pretty fancy set if I can make a nice board out of it and add a carpaccio hammer

For hand planes, why do some Chip breakers have a half-circle ish curve toeards the end that contacts the blade while others are pretty much flat? Is there any difference between the two and how you use them?

>>2758656
the only planes with the curve are bailey and its rip ofs, everything else is angular. there is no difference

Finished this mahogany bench, quite a lot of faults but it's going in my entryway instead of to a customer so it's fiiine. Oneday it might go to my parents if I want to make a new one out of a different wood.

>>2758721
Good job anon.

>>2758721
Looks nice, anon. Why are there two levels?

>>2758733
I wanted a sensible place to put a shoehorn that isn't just dangling from the doorhandle, everyone I know does that and it's annoyed me so much that I made this bench to fix that. Otherwise I can put decorations or keys on the higher shelf as well and stash some random shit in the space between.
Working on a very massive birch bed for a client next. This is about half the total wood volume, will be around 0.25m^3 total wood.

>>2758738
>This is about half the total wood volume, will be around 0.25m^3 total wood.
I'm not sure that math holds up. 0.25m^3 is a little less than 10in^3. That's the equivalent of ~7 board feet, or a 10" x 8'4" piece of lumber.

>>2758811
0.25m^3 is 250 liters, or 106 board feet
Where I am we generally measure volume in liters, unless using very large amounts of wood in which case it's cubic meters.

>>2758814
Oh, I see. I'm not sure why the units work that way. You're saying 0.25 of a cubic meter, not a cubic 0.25m. In my mind, 0.5m^3 would be equivalent to one of the eight blocks in the pic, where it's actually equal to four of them.

>>2758721
All handmade work has small flaws, that's what makes them so beautiful compared to factory junk.

I'm making this
https://www.amazon.ca/Rotating-Coffee-Syrup-Organizer-Countertop/dp/B0CHS7HDNH/
out of pallets.

>>2758869
How did you make the template for the circles?

>>2758894
Cnc router did all the work.
Still woodworking right?

>>2758721
Looks good, although a bit plain.
Have you considered putting in a translucent blue epoxy river as an enhancement?

>>2758938
Oh. I assumed because you took the picture in front of the jessem that you did the bulk of the work with the router table.

>>2759015
The flush trim bit cleans up all the sides and removes the tabs.
I did however make these templates for cirslecs with a a peg a drill and a piece of mdf taped down to my table and ran them on a a 1/4 router bit.

Question here I’m thinking of making some shop drawers and I don’t make furniture very often. About 10 drawers to store tools. Would you go for metal drawer rails? Or if I would mill a (3/8x3/8) slot in the drawer sides and attach a strip of MDF on the inside of the cabinet instead, would you think they would ‘run’ well or would they jam a lot. I don’t need self close or soft close or anything fancy, just needs to be easy cheap and convenient.

Could also give each drawer a ‘bottom’ to rest on, then I don’t need slots or rails or anything but it would take a lot more material and the drawers would need to be full height or they could tilt and fall out when opening. Any diy drawer cabinet tips?

>>2758869
>>2759019
That’s a lot of work for a pallet wood project but it’s nice. Looks like you surface milled it with the CNC as well? Never thought of doing that but still pretty cool.

>>2759236
Watch some videos about making shop drawers. Your design has been done quite a bit. You don't need metal rails, but you probably shouldn't use MDF.

>>2759244
Thanks, hadn’t thought of youtube.

> but you probably shouldn't use MDF.
Any specific reason for sliding or just in general? The first and most popular video uses slots milled in MDF because it slides so well

>>2759250
MDF tends to get beaten up in ways that are both ugly and structurally infeasible for your product. If you think you'll be fine, sure, go for it, but MDF will get beaten up around the sharp edges and it's susceptible to humidity.

>>2759250
MDF face slides good but you'd be screwing it through, or gluing it to, the side, which is the weaker part. Any wood, even spruce or pine, slides OK enough. Wax it by rubbing it with a candlestick for less friction. T. has roller drawer slides and pine drawer slides, rollers are better of course but bare wood is good enough. Make sure you have as little play as possible, any play will cause plain slides to bind.

>>2759236
The cheapest oldest drawers are just wood on wood. You can wax this and still get acceptable slide. The next glides are some form of plastic wheel on a nail. The more modern two wheels in a track are inexpensive. I refer to the bearing glides as office glides. Then stuff like Blum glides are good. Quick release, easily adjustable in all direction, soft close.

>>2759254
> beat your mdf
You can make mdf a lot better by doping. For example, on a high-abuse corner or edge you can just saturate it with low viscosity cyanoacrylate and it turns that area into high-durability plastic.

You can also dissolve plastics in acetone to make a thin dopant that will soak in and make the MDF like plastic. Also works on drywall.

There was a guy on youtube that tested thread holding with and without letting cyanoacrylate soak in, and it’s much stronger with.

For slides, I use cheap polyethylene cutting boards cut into strips and attached so that they are the friction surface.

>>2759358
>You can make mdf a lot better by doping. For example, on a high-abuse corner or edge you can just saturate it with low viscosity cyanoacrylate and it turns that area into high-durability plastic.
That's pretty cool. Thanks for sharing.

>>2758362
Finished, only needs some oil. I’m going to finish it with olive oil unless you guys recommend against it

>>2759995
Great work, great recovery job, I thought is was scrap wood. You can't use an oil that oxidizes, Olive Oil will go rancid very quickly. What I have been doing for many years is melting beeswax and mineral oil in a double boiler until I get a soft wax (use an old soup can). Apply, let it penetrate a bit, rub off, reapply often. You can use 100% mineral oil for the first 'coat' followed later by the wax/oil finish. This product is great for wooden bowls, bone or wood handle knives etc....

>>2758821
This is the bed I'm making, joinery doesnt show on the render but the main frame is dovetailed, sidepanels on the wings are sliding dovetails, and butterflies hold the wings to the main frame. No glue or screws anywhere.

I plan on starting woodworking this year and staying solely with hand tools as construction made me hate all power tools/loud noises. Possibly getting a house soon so I will be poor for some time and planned on slowly accruing the bare minimum hand tools. Any other suggestions other than like one tool a month? I know I can go the used route but I’m still learning what’s crap and what’s not.

>>2760074
>>2760074
Nice, great design and great technical execution.

>>2760129
What do you still need? I'd still go used though for the most part if budget is a thing.

>>2760129
You will need a workbench, but what do you need to build a workbench? I had this problem and started with making sawhorses and just put planks on top as a temp workbench. To make the saw horses I bought a cheap handsaw, a power drill, and a few chisels. I was able to build the workbench next and add a Stanley #4 plan, other planes, better chisels. I found a lot of stuff at flea auctions, farm auctions and yard sales. It's a slow build and as I took on other projects I just bought the tools I needed. It's a slow build that way but very efficient. Although I bought cheap at the beginning I switched to fewer and higher quality tools later. Good luck!

>>2760129
If you live in the Portland OR area I have some stuff you can have for free.

>>2760129
Speaking from personal experience, if you do get a house this year, you'll probably have repairs to do and modifications to make that will require power tools. You could engineer your finances such that you're not poor in the immediate future and are able to finance a table saw, drills and drivers, circs, etc.

I know that's not what you asked. Just giving you a heads up.

>>2760171
Pretty much everything, haha. But there are antique stores around here. Just saw one that had an old Stanley 750 1/4” chisel I think it was so I could go get that and visit other places.
>>2760175
Yeah I was planning first buy a saw and look for some lumber on Craigslist (lots of people around here selling). Any idea where to find plans or ideas on a workbench?
>>2760194
I’m on the east coast but I appreciate the kind gesture! I guess I’ll buy one or two things now and then coast around the antique stores nearby.
>>2760230
True. I still have some tools from my time as an electrician but no saws. The possible house we might close on has a shed with some room to work in but the siding near the ground is water logged and needs to be replaced. I’ll have to figure that out if we get it.

>>2760266
Since you're on the east coast with antique stores you should be in good shape to get stuff used. East Coast had infinitely more population compared to here in the NW back when these tools were still being made, and a lot of them were made in the New England area to begin with.

>>2760266
>>2760175 (You)
Yeah I was planning first buy a saw and look for some lumber on Craigslist (lots of people around here selling). Any idea where to find plans or ideas on a workbench?

I used the Workbench Book, fantastic resource can still be found. Ignore the free youtube advice and get the book.
https://www.amazon.ca/Workbench-Book-Craftsmans-Workbenches-Woodworking/dp/0918804760

I worked for years using my two solid sawhorses with planks, added a bench vice, very portable and still in use.

>>2760344
There's no easy answer on work benches, though the English style is probably the easiest to bootstrap yourself up to from saw horses. Paul Sellers has a good series on making a workbench with no workbench. I didn't follow his method since I didn't know about it at the time but it would have made planing way easier if I had. Have you given any thought on vises yet? There are a lot of good non vise work holding devices to try out but imo a vise is still the overall best in a lot of cases, though I still use hold fasts and plane stops a lot. A vise is potentially somewhat expensive. People have made their own for cheap though using scaffold leveling screws.

>>2760074
jk, the dovetails are just stickers. I'm actually using cam locks and dowels to make this.

>>2760074
Why not more storage under the mattress? You could put long drawers for bedsheets.

Also if you’re doing so much work on a bed are you sure you want a sheet of OSB under the mattress instead of slats or a box spring? To me that seems like a bad idea moisture and comfort wise

How do I cut the groove for the plywood drawer bottom? I'm using a router table. I need the groove a bit oversized so I can slide the bottom in without binding. Tried an exact fit but I think it's making the drawer out of square. Is there no better way than moving the fence slightly and running everything through twice? It seems they don't make router bits in a array of sizes like drill bits, only 1/4, 1/2, etc

>>2760545
If you're asking generally about how to cut grooves to size, then yes, multiple passes and sneaking up on the fit is how you do it. Router table or table saw, either way is fine.

How do the pros do it? Surely there's some bit that can do it in one pass.

>>2760554
The pros do it like I described.

>>2760129
If you're going the hand tool route, you need something heavy and solid for chisel work. And something to hold boards flat if you're going to use planes.

I'd look into some kind of simple Nicholson style bench. Christ Schwarz's knockdown Nicholson design is made with just 2x12 construction lumber for the top and sides. Get a few holdfasts and drill some holes for holding boards.

Of course a vise is nice if you can afford it.

>>2760545
Groove bits do come in every size. How thick are your drawer bottoms? Usually 1/8” or 1/4” is plenty since it’s supported on all 4 sides

>>2753867
>AVOID
>https://www.youtube.com/@Bourbonmoth
What's wrong with this channel? I've watched a couple of his Airstream videos and they seem mostly okay.

>>2760545
I have a 1/4 in Freud bit I use for this, just as described, on a router table.

>>2760635
> filled with bullshit, false information, or general faggotry
His how-to stuff is mostly quirky, self-ironic, entertainment, and not so much legitimate advice. Most of his advice is very general and surface-deep and not very helpful since you'll inevitably have to look up additional videos to see an actual how-to. He's not as guilty of this as JKM, but he's still pretty bad.

>>2760563
also, after doing a ton of these over many years, I have pretty much moved from stacked dados to a router table with a 1/4" bit, much faster, very clean result. Both work.

>>2760565
And you’d say that’s a solid direction to go workbench wise? I also saw the Roman workbench suggested where they sat on it. Looked kinda cool but it’s probably limited compared to a full blown workbench.

>>2753867
Building an English style work bench, approx 4'x8' out of dimensional lumber

2 questions

How far apart should i place the cross braces, and should i fasten with screws, common nails, or cut nails?

>>2760922
>>2760922
My distance between the cross pieces is about 3' on a 6ft bench. I screwed up under the cross rail with a lag bolt to fasten. The top is so heave it will not move, just need something to hold it in place, My top is 3" beech.

>>2760922
feet wide is like an mft table, "classical" work benches are never that wide you would be annoyed trying to reach over it for stuff and go around 8 ft to go get shit. Additionally, hand tool work benches are usually shorter than like an assembly table so this will also be annoying to deal with.

>>2760722
What thickness plywood are you using for the bottom with the 1/4" bit? I picked up some 1/4" pine sheathing at home depot but it turned out to be a bit OVER 1/4" and wouldnt fit at all.

Then I got some 5.2 underlayment but it was too loose. Help me find that goldilocks plywood bros.

>>2761010
Rockler has a router bit that's undersized. They have them for 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 sizes. If you get 1/4 plywood from homedepot the under sized 1/4 bit from rockler will make it a snug fit. A regular 1/4 bit will make the fit rattle with same sheet from home depot.

>>2761010
For utility drawers I use 1/4 poplar ply, you can always sand the edge a bit and it will slide in, or hand plane to taper the edge.. For restoration work I use planed wood and taper the edges by hand with a plane, old school, usually white pine. I pick up the ply at HD, it's commonly sold as poplar underlay.

>>2761025
If it’s loose you can also put an 1 degree angle in the slots on two sides. In my experience if I treat the plywood with anything like paint or varnish the fit will be snug. But maybe your 1/4” sheets are actually 6mm or my 6mm sheets are actually 1/4”

>>2761005
im aware its large, its going to be used for multiple things, and i plan to set it up so i can bolt down various tools depending on my needs (miter saw, arbor press, reloading press, drill press, or gun vice) and still have space to do other work in the remaining area. This of course could be done with multiple benches, but being in an apartment, its just easier to fit one long bench which i divide up rather than multiple smaller benches

>>2761417
Did you mean English style workbench as in pic related? Normally made with joints and a few bolts. But they’re already quite heavy at 2’x5’. If you make one 4’x8’ it’s going to be extremely heavy and expensive too.

If not, could you post a drawing instead

>>2761442
i dont exactly have a drawing yet as still debating details of it, but roughly that idea, though maybe with a metal vice not the wood. I'm aware it's going to be very heavy, the extra size isnt to add weight, its to give me room, in practice itll have less than the full 4' of room as i plan to add pegboard for tool storage

>>2753867
Does it make more sense to buy a router table rather than building one from plans? I have a Bosch palm router and was considering building a bench top router table to use with it for jointery and small items. But most of the plans involve buying a router plate that is somewhere between $60 - $80.

Should I just forgo building a router table and buying something like this Bosch table?
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6/

>>2761616
A common question. It depends on what you want and your typical use case. I always just bought the plate and added a router table between the rails of my table saw. This was a cheap solution, saved space, gave me the weight of the table, and I could use the fence as a router fence. If you don't have a table saw, then that should be a priority over a router table. I have a double car garage workshop and just could not justify the space and expense.

thinking about making some lowboard media console kind of thing from 18mm beech boards. i think a miter joint for the outside rectangle might look good but will it hold the around 35kg of my speakers and tv? how well does beech glue?

>>2761616
>>2761616
Scroll up for an almost identical discussion. I came to the conclusion that it was a better use of my money to buy the router lift and build my own table for it. If you purchase a router table like that, you're spending $200 on something that you can build yourself in a couple hours for $20 and a trip to Home Depot. If that's worth it to you, go for it.

>>2761616
>>2761674
Also, unless you buy a router lift, don't buy a plate. A plywood, MDF with hardboard, or a sheet of 0.5" acrylic will be just fine.

>>2761649
Hmm. That's an interesting point. I have a table saw, but its a contractor style table saw rather than a cabinet style one. So there isn't a long out feed table I can attach the router plate to.

Most of what I want to use the router table for is detail work on small items, like trivets and coasters. I was also thinking of using it for cutting finger joints and edge details. While I have a router guide and could use that for the jointery and detail edges, it seemed like having the longer fence of a router table would be nice.

I think I might end up building the router table since I have scrap plywood and MDF available to me. Building the table also seems like a fun project. Curious what your thoughts are on whether I should build or buy given my use case.

>>2761677
Depending on your bits, you might not need a fence. Bearings work as well as bits in most cases. If you do need a fence, any straight piece of stock clamped to the board will do. The fence doesn't need to be square.

>>2761674
>>2761676
Yeah, I think I'm leaning towards just building my own table. It would be a fun project and I could customize it to fit my needs and space constraints. Plus, the router table I'm looking at would be at least two or three times the cost of building my own, which doesn't seem worth it.

So you are saying I should just avoid buying a plate like this one?
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1314752427/38-in-thick-trim-router-table-dewalt

Would I be better off just building the plate from acrylic myself too? It seems like it wouldn't be too hard to make myself.

Do you have any tips for building a router table? I was thinking of making it from scrap MDF but I'm wondering what finish I should use to cut down on friction so its easier to slide work pieces along the top of the table and the fence.

>>2761681
Yeah man, good luck.

The Etsy listing is overcharging for a piece of acrylic screwed to plywood.

https://www.amazon.com/SimbaLux-Plexiglass-Transparent-Protective-Projects/dp/B084T6SXJ6/

Personally I'd go for 0.5", but 3/8" is probably fine. Definitely no smaller.

The plate itself is where most of the friction would need to be addressed, and if you make it out of acrylic, you'll be fine there. The rest of it can be MDF, that's no problem. If you want a lower CoF, consider hardboard glued to MDF/ply.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardboard-Tempered-Panel-Common-1-8-in-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-115-in-x-47-7-in-x-95-7-in-832777/202189720

>>2761685
Thanks for the advice!

Yeah, I thought the Etsy listing seemed a bit overpriced but I wasn't sure if I was just being unreasonable. Making the plate myself brings the cost down to around $20 which is almost nothing compared to the cost of buying one. Looks like I've found my next project. I appreciate the advice!

>>2761693
For sure, feels free to post pics once you've finished.

>>2761677
Also, you don't need a long outfeed table to mount the router table. You can do it between the rails of your saw.

Here's an example with a little DeWalt job site saw. It's sturdier than you'd think.

Soon I will be needing 4 or 5 sturdy shop tables/benches. I’ve had this design from ana white saved for years and like them for how easy they seem to build and dimension and think I want go with this design. My concern tho is the joint for the horizontal supports, according to the plans these are all screwed and glued end grain to face grain, that doesn’t seem very sturdy to me. Any way to make this a stronger connection without making it a lot more complex? I guess could make cross lap joints in the middle ones pretty easily but what about the big legs? Any ideas

>>2761739
It should be plenty strong given that any stress will be distributed equally among all the joints, but if you're concerned, you could dado out a pocket for each support. That way you could glue it over three surfaces and then throw in a couple of screws.

The only other way would be to mill a ledge onto each of the horizontal side beams, but then you're sacrificing ease of build for strength.

Why not build one and see how it goes? Chances are you'll be fine as-is.

>>2761739
>>2761743
Also, you probably know this, but you'll want to pocket screw the supports from the inside corners into the horizontal sides, not the other way around.

>>2761744
Thanks for the insights. I’ll try with some good screws and glue first. I don’t even have a pocket screw jig. If it feels too weak I guess I’ll just use the router to mill pockets into all the supports at once.

Speaking of glues any thoughts on titebond 3? I haven’t tried it but it seems to work wonders and I know titebond original works poorly on pine end grain. Seems most people recommend polyurethane glue for this stuff but the only type they sell here is very expensive and has 8 hours clamping time

>>2761763
TB2 or 3 are fine. No need to overthink it.

You don't need pocket screws necessary, but you will want to screw in from the inside. Never screw into endgrain.

>>2761765
> Never screw into endgrain.
Ah thanks a lot, now I understand

>>2761729
That's a common and very effective solution, what I've done for 30+ years on every table saw I've owned, including contractor grade saws.

I need to make something that will hold a rangehood inside of it. But it will be much higher up than pic related, and look a bit more like a ceiling bulkhead. I want it to have the same looking wood and style as pic related. Size is about 1.2m wide by .7m deep, and .3m high (so it will start at the ceiling and come down .3m)

Could you ever see something like that working?

>>2761672

have modelled what i am talking about in sketchup. dimensions are 200x40x49.4cm. wood thickness 18mm, the miter joints would be the outer edges (not sure how to model it correctly right now). the boxes on top are speakers and tv. thoughts?

>>2761886
Sure. Sourcing the wood might be challenging if you want them to be continuous pieces. Easier if you're okay with glue-ups. You'd dimension some longer boards and glue them into a post / beam and shape them. The larger one up top might get obnoxious, but you could do a wraparound where you do the glue-up with some less expensive stock (like plywood or cheaper hardwood) to get the size and shape you want, then apply what's essentially a thick veneer on the faces, sides, and ends.

Personally I think it looks a little silly, but if it fits the aesthetic you want...

>>2762034
Beech would be fine. Is there a reason you're married to the beech idea? Or do you mean plywood? Plywood would be dimensionally more stable than hardwood boards, but there's no reason hardwood boards wouldn't work for this. It's a pretty basic build for which you'll be able to find plenty of guides on YouTube.

>>2761729
The glowies are monitoring this thread and will come and seize your non-sawstop table saw. Even though it makes the least sense in the US because no public healthcare. Enjoy the freedom.

>>2762065
i mean beech hardwood boards. they are the cheapest hardwood i can get and i think they look better than plywood, that is all. so you think using miter joints for the outer edges should be fine?

>>2757497

pallet jew here

another place to get cheap power tools is thrift stores. I have a Goodwill outlet in my city that often has old power tools. if you're mechanically inclined, you can grab this stuff, and fix it up.

so far I've got:
Hitachi compound miter (with a damn near new Diablo blade) - $20
B&D circ saw - $10
newer Craftsman belt sander - $5
two old B&D workmates - $25

and of course they always have abused hand tools of all kinds, most of them are in perfectly good shape. Sometimes you'll find VERY nice older shit like 80's Craftsman, or (RARELY) Snap-On.

point is, you can find tools heavily marked down at thriftshops. I would suggest big names like Goodwill because a lot of the time they don't know what they have and you can score it for cheap. Again, I wouldn't suggest this unless you can disassemble and maintain the tools because these tools ain't gonna be clean, and they're gonna need to be greased... and sometimes have their carbon brushes changed out.

good luck buddy, happy hunting.

>>2762083
Stop sperging about the SawStop thing.

https://youtube.com/shorts/vCuLs31fDaQ?si=FJzfkeiCEqT8q6DM

>>2762185
Obviously staged.

>>2760004
>>2759995
Use coconut and beeswax if you want a non-petroleum based non-oxydizing oil. Melted together, then applied with a warm iron, is how i did it.

Nice thread. Read about half.
Will need to build a boat. No metal.

IYKYK: Denver sucks!

>>2762204
If you use coconut oil ensure it's coconut acid, or fractionated coconut oil (same thing).

>>2762217
Right. It was MCT oil same same.

>>2762206
What?

>>2762125
Yeah, guys… can we tone-down the Sawstop thing and the genocide thing? Thanks.

>>2762116
> Hitachi compound miter (with a damn near new Diablo blade) - $20
Riiiiiigggght. Yeah…. Me too.
I picked up a brand-new in-box Sawstop PCS for $1 at goodwill. The usually get a couple of them in every day.

>>2762125
If mr sawstop didnt want pushback, he shouldnt have continually tried to push federal legislation to ban non sawstop saws.

>>2762311
> old retired guy buys a new blade for his saw
> reluctantly decides he no longer has the strength or stamina to build stuff
> dies
> family decides it's too old to be of any worth

What a good tutorial for cutting the mortises for haunched door tenons?

>>2762419
There are books, but better is to get some scrap wood and do it, over and over. Best way to learn.

>>2762419
If you want to do it by hand with a chisel, Paul Sellers walks through it on one of his videos on building a workbench (its the second video on this page):

https://paulsellers.com/knowledge-base/mortice-and-tenon/

That workbench series is what got me into woodworking, although I never made a laminated top by hand like that, seems like torture.

I'm thinking of getting one of these for home DIY projects:
>https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dewalt-15-amp-corded-8-1-4-in-compact-jobsite-tablesaw-with-stand/1001618595
I watched a bunch of reviews on it and it seems pretty solid. One thing people seem to point out is that it's no ten incher. In what situation would one absolutely want a 10" machine? I see there's a Rigid one for cheaper, but I haven't done any research on it: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ridgid-15-amp-10-inch-table-saw-with-folding-stand/1001406353
Does anyone have any tips or recommendations?

>>2762695
>In what situation would one absolutely want a 10" machine?
Resawing. If you're just doing diy, you won't mind.

The DWE7485 is often the go-to table saw for beginners. It's a solid unit.

>>2762298
mct oil and fractionated are different names for the same thing.

i encourage you to use google.

>>2762334
Posting here is not pushback, it's just childish venting with zero effect on the situation.

If you want a proper saw make the effort to get and fix an old one. This is /diy/ not /helplessfaggot/

>>2762682
I've watched a decent amount of Paul. Here, I'm probably looking for more of a routing solution. Cabinet doors aren't worth hand cutting in the majority of cases.

>>2764027
I've used a router table with a fence, or a stacked dado to cut the grove first then cut the mortice by hand. Easy to do in pine by hand unless you are doing many, and I've also used a mortising attachment on my drill press.
How many are you doing and in what material?

>>2764027
You could setup two stop blocks, one on each side of the bit in the router table, drop the piece onto the bit for the deeper portion, then move to each stop. Then remove and reset one stop block, lower the bit and make the shallower cut on the end.

Other option would be to use a mortiser. Drill press with a fence would save some hand work but you'd still need to clean it up afterwards with a chisel.

how do you cut a 7-8cm deep mortise with a router

whats a handheld woodworking tool that's also a general purpose diy tool other than a drill

>>2764267
cardscraper
mallet
holdfast
clamps
router can be used for weld prep

>>2764268
powered tool

>>2764272
router, see above
any type of sander
jigsaw can do metal too
are you retarded?
only thing i cant see a use for metal working is a track saw, and even that would likely work on thin sheet metal

>>2764243
>>2764243
So much time setting up equipment when you can simply deepen the cut to create the mortise. Unless you are in production just cut the thing by hand. Mortisers are great though and worth the investment.

How come pool cue makers don't use sawstops or riving knives?
https://youtu.be/z50u2AO4N2w

0:30 and 10:25 is pretty good too

>>2764597
asia is 100 years backwards

>>2758721
That's mahogany?
Anyway, love the handmade look

How can I do joinery here? Can I dovetail from the side of the grain? I haven't done any woodworking in almost 20 years but I need a guitar stand and don't want a bunch of screws in it.

>>2765039
It won't be under much stress, so you don't really need any complicated joinery. There's no need for a dovetail unless you're experienced with dovetails and genuinely want to do dovetails.

I'd opt for either a butt joint or a dowel. You can get a dowel alignment jig off Amazon for not very much, or you can build one yourself with a couple of blocks of wood glued into an L-shape.

https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1332-Joint-Mate-Self-Centering/dp/B09RQ53CMR

>>2764273
grim

>>2765039
If you do dovetail, do one big one instead of multiple little ones.

>>2765039
Half-lap would be perfect too.

>>2765039
I would just put a dado in the bottom part, they look pretty good like that, it’s easy to get the angle exactly right and shouldn’t be too hard to chisel into the long grain like that.

so i have built some drawer cabinets for a desk out of plywood that will stand on legs made of planed pine 33x33 mm. i'm thinking an inset mitered frame with outer measurements 600x300 that i'll attach the legs to the inside of. preferably ill just glue the frame to the underside and have the legs removable using hardware of some kind. will i have problems with the mitered frame with the wood moving this way though?

>>2765239
I Probably should have, but I thought I could get away without having to use glue. My dovetails were very sloppy. I also chiseled out holes for the smaller pieces and there is gaps all around them lol. I might just end up having to paint it. I still gotta trim off the tops I don't want it that tall, and I guess glue everything together and give it a good sanding. I'm gonna try stain first and see how bad the gaps are.

>>2765546
Man, that’s depressing. I sure wish I knew how to play an instrument. I bought an electric guitar 10 years ago but never started practicing.

>>2765743
That guitar is almost 20 years old now and I sometimes didn't play it for years. I only started playing everyday a few months ago and actually recorded an entire album for the first time instead of 2 minutes of riffing. I don't see why you can't try and play again.

>>2765831
>actually recorded an entire album

>actually

>>2765839
yeah it's always been hard to not get bored of working on the same thing and sitting at a computer for more than an hour or two at a time. it's easier to just play something new each time. doing a bit of wood working was a nice change for me, i spent most of the day getting the rack together. i wish i had the space for a shop, but for now i'm stuck with hobbies that don't require as much physical space.

https://eternalshroud.bandcamp.com/album/eternal-shroud

is there literally any good reason to go for japanese shit over western? I know my way around importing sites and finding used stuff so I wouldn't get cucked by middlemen.
the main reason I ask is due to a lack of space and their floor platform is a lot more realistic for me than a bench rn.
or should I just go for Rex's $30 bench? I could probably squeeze that in too.

>>2766535
In a place that's not Japan I'm assuming? Maybe. The floor platform isn't the only "bench" used. The planing beam is also used given the length limitations inherent to the atedai. I use a bit of both just for fun but I'm mostly a Western style wood worker in general. Stuff is just much easier to get cheaply used here. If you could only buy new, I guess this is a point toward the Japanese stuff since in a lot of cases, dollar for dollar, you'd get a higher quality thing since a lot of new high quality western style stuff has some straight up delusional prices. I've never used a low bench for western push planing personally so I can't attest to how good that would be. But it's great sure sawing and chiseling.

Furniture grade suppliers are few and far between near me, and I'm not sure I trust their storage can anyone recommend a half decent moisture meter?

>>2766750
Moisture readers aren't complicated tech. Anything pinned will be fine. Just bear in mind that what you're looking for is stable readings over time, not specific measurements.

>watching a """"woodworker"""" on youtube build something
>they pull out a pocket hole jig

>>2753878
https://www.youtube.com/user/matthiaswandel
real OG woodworker who built everything from scratch before it was a meme

>>2766710
I got some japanese dozuki and ryoba saws, like 5 of them now.
…they are wonderful, but I always use my western-style constuction saw because the japanese saws are too nice looking to consider using them.
They are freakishly sharp, I just grazed one and it left a bunch of thin red scabs from the scratch it made at like 20 tpi.

>>2758972
One of my teachers will sometimes respond to questions about designing furniture with wood expansion in mind with "you could do it like this, OR you could dunk the whole thing in epoxy like the americans". I designed the bench in literally 5 minutes so it's what it's.
>>2764836
Mahogany is a pretty general term, us whiteoids up here in the north at least don't really have great vocabulary for it. There's a metric assload of different mahoganies, some of which are lighter and some of which are darker. This is the mahogany you'd get from any mill here so that there's some kind of standard as to what you're getting when you ask for 'mahogany'.

>>2768204
I got a razorsaw handle and a few blades from wwgs advice 2 years ago and they still haven’t worn out. Theyre disposable blades as in can’t be sharpened, may not be everyone’s favourite but for $50 you can’t really go wrong

>>2762695
I have that exact same saw and love it. I'm pretty new to wood working and it is my first table saw so take it with a grain of salt. It's not too heavy, so it works pretty well for a job site saw if that is something you need. The fence is very solid and I haven't had any issues with it. It's pretty loud though, which may or may not be an issue for you depending on your needs. I can't really think of any faults or shortcomings it has.

>>2753914
Check local estate sales for tools you need. You can get a whole workshop setup on the cheap.

What's a next purchase after a table saw that will save me money and time in the long run? Thinking about getting a combo jointer planer but space is tight and i usually buy flat lumber

>>2768777
Flat and square are temporary states of being. I'd still consider a planer at least.

>>2768460
You don’t want a saw to be too sharp. As soon as you get it you should — over the full length — cut a piece of rebar or a small bolt with it.

The reason is because saws that are too sharp cannot be used to start cuts… it will immediately dig into the wood and seize there. So it helps if it’s a but dull, then it can slide over the wood a bit and you can start the cut without it sticking.

>>2768777
How much space do you have, and how much noise can you make?

I second the planer suggestion from >>2768824 if you live in a space where you can make that much noise.

>>2768824
>>2768856
Other than portability, what should I look for in a planer? Probably non shitty plastic materials but anything else?

>>2768883
What kind of budget are you working with?

This is the lowest model I'd feel comfortable recommending for a new, not-shitty planer. You might be able to find better models used on Craigslist or Marketplace, but those will already have wear and tear.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Thickness-Package/dp/B003OX9KME

I would like to build a big (~150m2) greenhouse and have a question about wood framing (total noob).
So apparently, after laying down the concrete foundation, you first attached the mudsill to the foundation with anchors, and then you place the wall/studs on top of the mudsill.
My question is, how do you attach or secure the studs to the mudsill? Do you nail/screw diagonally or what? I think that would increase the chances of the stud splitting or something.
Pls help.

>>2769008
Another question: can I combine the pier-and-beam foundation with the concrete foundation to give more security to the corner/pillars of the framing?
From what I've seen on the internet, the pier-and-beam foundation is often used with pillars only and with the rest of the structured raised off the ground.

>>2769008
Yeah you toenail them.
Or, use steel brackets designed for that purpose and more bolts and/or nails in every hole (hot dipped zinc) especially in tornado/hurricane areas.

>>2769008
Don't fuck around with toenailing, use brackets instead and make sure that ALL OF THE METAL YOU USE ON THE INSIDE IS HOT DIPPED GALVANIZED. It's a somewhat more expensive option but all other things being equal it also means the difference between needing to repair your greenhouse every few years versus needing to repair it every decade.

>>2769032
>>2769047
Got it. Thank you, anons. I will do that. <3

>>2753867
Do you guys not like Paul Sellers?

Am I insane for considering air tools and corded tools over cordless?

>>2769078
I like his videos. He really shows what you can do with a minimum of tools inadvertently since he does almost all his planing with no 4 Stanleys.

>>2769078
Yes but sometimes not. I like most of his stuff but sometimes he says a project very easy and doesn’t require any modern tools but halfway in he whips out a perfectly sharp bow saw, mortise chisel and combination plane

>>2769008
Check out Larry Haun he explains most framing stuff really well
https://youtu.be/n4OmW37loVo

>>2769011
Yes that is fine, but for most soil types and climates you only need one of the two. But it wouldn’t harm

>>2769298
I love this.

>>2769126
Corded stuff can be really cheap second hand. Power and torque generally aren't an issue because the wall feeds you as much juice as you want.

I'm not into air because there's the compressor and hoses to deal with. I already have dust control to manage.

I lost several batteries to cold last year. The lower duty tools are optimal cordless. Anything that pisses energy or only operates in one place all day may as well be corded. Something that needs to get into every odd place is very convenient cordless, like multi too and brad nailer.

>>2769078
Sellers is always repped here.

>>2769008
You could build the walls before lifting them? Then nail the wall plate into the mudsill or if they're the same board, just glue and ramset once you lift. Always use green lumber against concrete.

On a house, it's foundation - sill seal - sill plate bolted to foundation - joists/rim joist - decking

>>2768163
>REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE THIS ISNT AMISH OL TIMEY JOINERY

>>2769398
shove your festool domino up your ass, faggot.

>>2753867
Graham Blackburn
>> https://youtube.com/@gjbmunc

Does the quality of red oak differ greatly between home depot and a lumber yard? I wanna make furniture out of red oak but the nearest lumber yard is far from me. Autistic question I know, but I can't find a straightforward answer anywhere.

>>2770285
>I wanna make furniture out of red oak
Why?

>>2770285
Why dont you just go buy a small piece from both and compare the two?
It always comes down to picking out the best pieces anyways.
My local woodworking joint doesnt put garbage wood out on the floor, its all decent. Thats what you pay the premium for, you dont shovel through garbage to find decent pieces.
The other "lumber yards" near me arent any better than the big box stores, they exist to sell dimensional lumber to construction workers.

>>2770388
Not that anon, but I know the answer.
Its the cheapest hardwood that big box stores sell.
I have built a decent amount of stuff out of red oak, because Menards carries a ton of it.
Stuff better than Red Oak gets way more expensive fast, or is stuff like edgeglued or Fingerjointed boards

>>2770388
To match the other pieces already in my house

>>2770404
>>2770413
Buying cheap lumber to make custom furniture is like tailoring a bespoke suit from clearance rack polyester, or refurbishing a Stradivari by stringing it fishing line. A majority of the investment is going to be in time, sweat, and experience, not the cost of materials. It's a false economy.

i'm doing a cabinet with rattan wave, fastened with splints like in image. it's all made of fir plywood and I will probably treat it with slightly white pigmented hardwax oil.
in what order would it be wise to do this- hardwax oil first and then stick on the rattan weave, or the other way around?

>>2770495
Yes, finish and then apply the rattan. You'll never get the coverage you want navigating around the rattan, plus you'll want to thoroughly rub it down with a piece of brown paper after drying the hardwax oil.

>>2770497
thanks anon.
on a related note - through work i came in contact with a carpenter who used staining which could be made in any NCS color. don't know english names for it but he called it something like alcohol staining. apparently you can't get it unless you have a company here so i'm looking for alternatives. i've found some oil and water based ones that i guess will do but what finish can I then use on top of them? would hardwax oil work? seems easy to work with. i'd rather not use any PU coats or other plastic based ones

>>2770511
What kinds of colors do you want your wood to be? Most furniture makers I know tend to prefer elevating the natural color of wood, not staining it something else entirely.

>>2770513
yeah I'm very not traditional, and I like color! as it's made out of ply it's not really a last 5 generations kinda thing either (and it's been built using really crappy tools on my balcony so it's pretty wonky). so i'm not too concerned with the staining not looking amazing in 15 years.
being able to get it in any ncs is pretty important as i have color everywhere at home and want it to match

>>2770511
Where are you? In germany there’s HK Lasur which you can order in any RAL color. Also pretty much every top coat is in some way plastic except shellac

>>2770511
>something like alcohol staining
spiritusbeize...
its different to water based stains
water based stains is dissolved paint that gets soaked in the wood, affects the early and late growth rings differently. Alcohol stain is suspended pigment and a fixer, it only lays ontop and in the pores. You can mix your own in any tone you want from earth pigments, shellac and ethanol. result varies on amount of coats and application medium (rag, brush, sponge) endless possibilities.
Beer paint is basically the same but they used beer, where the starch acts as fixer. For an oil finish it doesnt matter, but for example shellac doesnt work on alcohol stained pieces for obvious reasons

>>2770434
Red oak isn't bad wood

>>2770717
Brilliant. I differentiate 'water based stains' as dyes and prefer them to stains, as you note, are a film finish and can detract from the natural wood tones.

>>2771452
auto subtitles should work
he uses it for coloring new wood on restoration pieces, basically what got me into the paint rabbit hole (imo that guy is the biggest woodworking goldmine on the whole mainland)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfJsq-4dp-E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?=h4YzqA_Yi_Y
i guess commercial products might use a different fixer, and as alway do plenty testpieces

>>2771462
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4YzqA_Yi_Y
second link got fucked

I want to try fixing my rifle stock, even though I've never worked with wood before. Note the damage where the receiver contacts the wood. The proper method is to insert a block of wood there, no way I can pull that off. People also suggest bedding compound which I don't have and seems harder to work with. But I've been told that wood glue is stronger than wood. So could I use glue to fill in where the wood has chipped away?

>>2771484
>The proper method is to insert a block of wood there, no way I can pull that off
Why not?

>>2771484
The *bond* between two properly glued parts is stronger than the wood. What this means, practically, is that the wood around it will tear before the glue line fails. The glue itself has very little strength.

>>2771494
>precisely cut block of wood
>precisely cut hole for the block
>precisely glue it in
>precisely install pegs to hold it
Okay, maybe I could do it, but it would take a long time and I might fuck it up. Considering I'm not into woodworking it's just not worth it. A guy near me can do it for $150, but that's so expensive I figured I'd ask if there's an easier fix.
>>2771505
Okay, are there any other options?

>>2771540
Since wood is not an option, and $150 is too much, try an epoxy for wood. It will bond to the existing and can be shaped. I think bondo for wood is similar. I'm a woodworker and I wouldn't charge more than $50 for this job.

>>2771544
I'll look into that, thanks anon.

>>2771484
Watch Mark Novak/anvil on youtube. He has like 20 videos on fixing wooden stocks.

You probably have a different break farther up the gun. That piece way back there broke because the action is slamming into it when it fires.

>>2771505
What?!? I was planning to make a chair out of 100% woodglue because it’s so strong.

>>2771602
3d printer General is over there

>>2770528
What? Isnt the thing with hardwax oils, danish oil and stuff that they arent plastic and are easier to maintain? But thanks. In sweden. Weird that its using ral, its super limited as a color system unless using ral design.. usually just used for metal coats.
seems like there are oil based stains that are sort of almost easily available. I really dont mind the staining heightenint growth ring contrasts in fact it would be preferable as theyre pretty low on these pieces. should i go for oil or water based?

>>2771741
Iirc danish oil describes a variety of mixes and many contain some poly.

>>2771741
Sorry I half misread or maybe my esl terminology is wrong. What I call a top coat mostly sits on top of the wood like a paint, lacquer or varnish, these are pretty much all plastic/polymers. Oils and waxes penetrate the wood and soak into the fibres so are not coats/coatings in my book.

I don’t know about the RAL but when mixing paint here you order a RAL color unless you go to some very fancy paint store that uses their own system

I'm at the end of my rope, I'm about to start making a meme epoxy table out of the slab I've had drying for years in a desperate attempt to pay unexpected bills.
Anything I should know? Otherwise I will just blatantly copy everything blacktail guy does and idk throw it on facebook marketplace or something.

>>2772809
No, just copy the epoxy table guy.

I'd be worried about being in a financial situation where I'm compelled to make epoxy tables to pay my bills. Do you not have a job?

>>2772832
I'm normally just a dumb contractor monkey but works unusually slow even for winter. Its chewed through my savings and then the unexpected stuff rolled through.

>>2772841
Where are you located? Most contractors I know around here have all he work they could ask for practically year-round.

>>2772841
Hammer the free gig apps and your social media for leads. There are clients that will snatch you up, especially if you have photos of your work and are putting in the effort to advertise. Pin them down to up front or daily payments to prevent any back sliders.

>>2771831
I have not used hard wax finish, but I make professional products out of basic polys or other finishes when the jobs need. The hard wax and a few others have an advantage of drying hard and being more receptive of buffing. There are many combination products like truoil, danish, tung. The most important things in my eyes are that you pick a product with your preferred look (gloss), the right durability/touch, and apply it with an even controlled method. Always looking for a new product is just finisher snobbery.

Is marquetry a good application for CNC routing? And can it be used consistently and reliably for larger features like doors and frames?

I am trying to get into wood working by making some wooden plates and spoons. What woods are good for kitchen use?

How hard would this banquette be to build? Is it framed with pine and walnut used to sheath it? And how difficult is it to upholster things?

>>2773253
It is often done with a drag knife cutter because mill bits can’t make sharp corners

>>2773553
Looks like veneered plywood to me. Upholstery is kinda tricky and requires a lot of special tools to do it right and efficiently. A stuffed pattern like that and the French seam would be quite difficult for a beginner, do you know anyone that can see very well?

>>2773630
>It is often done with a drag knife cutter because mill bits can’t make sharp corners
Good input, thanks.

>>2773630
how would you use a drag knife with wood?

>>2773630
If upholstery is tricky I’ll find someone else to do it or look on Etsy. How difficult is it to veneer plywood myself? I feel like staining plywood would look cheap

>>2753982
Is it too big to hang from underneath the top cabinets? If not make two rails and attach them to the bottom side of cabinets. Should act like a drawer slide

>>2753867
anyone ever tried to build a boat?
all the plan I've seen use plywood and resin+fiberglass, won't it eventually rot?

>>2773808
All you need is a few cans of flex seal and a couple screen doors to build a boat

>>2773739
Veneer for marquetry is cut with a scalpel or sharp knife, drag knife for veneer is the same thing and has replaceable scalpel like blades. Laser is probably better but I never tried

>>2773808
Only RC boats but used to be a harbour guy. 8 coats of marine poly on plywood or whatever is the standard usually holds pretty well. Plywood boat people rework it about every other season. If it’s left in the water with a leak for too long you have to cut out the rotten part and replace with new ply, which is easier than it sounds.
If it sinks your pretty screwed because its difficult to seal the inside. But afaik only aluminium boats are really sink proof

Would you guys want some simple project with pictures. I’m ”professional” kek. woodworking/metalworking/technology/sloyd teacher and im currently making new student projects for next year. I could make and share one smallish project for /diy/.
If woodworking it must be doable with bandsaw, thicknesser, beltsander, mitresaw, mortiser, lathe and shaper. Also trimmer, joiner and tablesaw can be used but i dont let my students use them. Also all the usual handtools are allowed.
Material pine, fir, birch as lumber and plywood. Vaneering is possible.

Student work size projects like coffeetable, chair, shelf, small cabinet. Choose.

Picrel. Biggest possible project, kitchen cabinet. I havent made course material for that yet

Anyone have experience with clear coating/ceramic coating your pieces?

>>2773884
I've mainly seen marquetry inlays done with thicker pieces with the (sizable) excess routed or bandsawed off, then sanded flush. Veneer thin enough to drag knife sounds pricey, obnoxious, or both.

>>2773889
Why are the top and bottoms on the door these weird glued together boards? I don’t really see a use case where you’re going to use solid wood and make fancy edges but not spend $2 on pine board that doesn’t have misaligned half knots

>>2773940
Glued. Doesnt twist or bend/shrink that easily. Its just 18mm thick. Also i painted it.

Well found this thread which interest me, but was looking to see if there was a thread for stone working.. I'm not quite sure what it would be called, best I could describe it as is woodworking, but with stone. I'd really like to make a marble jewelry box.

Does any anon know what this would be called? or point me in the right direction?
Have also been looking how to get into wood carving.

>>2773957
>Also i painted it.
Goodness, why? Makes it look like the kind of shit I throw away when I move into a new place.

>>2774448
Search "stone" + "carving, sculpture, working" (I just did) and you'll have a good start.

Add "tools" to your search string" and remember this technique as many people lack search skills and it will serve you well.

https://trowandholden.com/hard-stone-hand-carving-set.html

Add "reddit" (routes around most SEO) to get enthusiasts info not marketing, and "internet archive" (to get old books about a very old skill).

>>2774464
Thank you anon. I hope one day to show my work once I figure it out.

>>2773957
It looks pretty good didn’t know you’d paint it and the gaps are also fixed.

>>2774457
Bare wood on kitchen stuff sucks, heavily clear coating pine also sucks because you can’t see defects and they will turn into black spots. Imo kitchen cabinets are made from cheap wood with expensive paint for efficiency and >>2773957 did fine in that.

>>2774598
There's no reason you can't use a quality wood with a hardwax oil for kitchen furniture. I've seen very good results with white oak and Rubio Monocoat 5% mist. Looks natural and resists yellowing.

>>2774741
I’m not saying you shouldn’t but I think there’s little use in it, kitchen cabinets get water, cleaning agents, acids and grease on them. If you use scrub sponges and oxalic acid based cleaner, a good coat of paint lasts longer than hardwax oil in my experience

>>2775166
Ive had good experiences with hardwax in kitchen tabletops. I have used OsmoColor brand waxes. I dont have any hardwood, i mainly use spruce and pine for furniture, sometimes birch.
Started to make new cabinet also. Spruce, for 8/9th grade woodworking classes example.

>>2775363
>Spruce, for 8/9th grade woodworking classes example.
Teaching middle school woodworking sounds comfy. How did you land that job?

>>2775371
”Those who cant do, teach” . I have master of arts in teaching and major on slojd/technology. Been teaching in middle school woodworking 17years now.. its dead end job

>>2753981
Probably better to use water resistant plywood or mdf.

>>2760074
You should use glue unless it has to constantly come apart. There's no shame in it. Historically all (most) joinery used glue. Part of the strenght of dovetails comes from their big glue surface.

>>2768847
Holy shit please don't listen to this guy, that's the worse advice I've ever heard.
Saws should be as sharp as possible. If you have trouble starting them, it's literally a skill issue. You need to hold the saw off the work, instead of pushing it into the work, hold it so it's barely touching. Put the plate against your thumb to place it accurately. If you lack the skill or your saw is too heavy to hold just touching the work, run it backwards a couple times first.

>>2768204
You should use them, not like they're collection-grade. They're cheap, they're the japanese equivalent of a $5 saw from home depot.

>>2766535
On a japanese bench, you lock yourself into japanese planes, which are wooden and thus a pain. I'd go with the rex bench. I

>>2766535
As for tools, I do enjoy japanese saws, though some people prefer western. But it is objectively true that japanese saws are the cheapest way to get joinery-grade saws, and as a bonus you don't have to deal with sharpening them (because you can't)

>>2775490
>japanese saws are the cheapest way to get joinery-grade saws
a good 10" gent saw can be bought for like 15€, but yeah, takes 10 minutes of fiddling before it cuts fast and clean

>>2775490
I also like that a ryoba cuts almost as fast as a big panel saw but is also fine enough for most joinery

>>2775493
I was not aware of that. But gent saws are also fucking horrible so I stand my ground.

>>2775446
I have no idea what slojd is but this
>its dead end job
is disappointing to hear.

I have a good job anyway but sometimes dream about making my life about woodworking and furniture building.

>>2775498
>But gent saws are also fucking horrible
ergonomic vise? imo jap saws are not an inch better.

>>2775479
I know he replied to me but I thought it was some inside joke because otherwise it’s a pretty obvious troll

>>2775493
Gent saws are okay but they are always back saws while with a ryoba you can also use the same saw for everything, flush cutting resawing and long rip cuts. It doesn’t perform as well at any of those as the proper western equivalent would, but it’s a lot cheaper than getting four saws

>>2775583
Yeah might be a troll, I just panicked at the thought of harm coming to an innocent saw.

>>2768777
checked and collect that dust. All points lead to a massive blower motor, cyclone separator, giant filter, and lots of hoes. Air scrubbers too.

>>2775583
oh yeah i dont have a ryoba, just a kataba.
the kataba is great for handheld sawing not clampable pieces, with the pull saws you can really dial back the cutting force, while a push saw at least requires a benchhook

>>2754105
>make your first bench
what does that mean

>>2753867
>https://www.youtube.com/@Foureyes.Furniture
Absolutely insufferable voiceover. I like some of his designs but the commentary on his videos is obnoxious. He constantly rambles trying to sound deep or witty and fails miserably. I wish he would just stop talking.

So I've got this plan for an in-ground raised bed but need some feedback.

The top piece (recolored in pic) of trim is 15 2/3', but the longest piece of wood I can purchase here is 13ft.
I CAN shorten the length of the planter, but the longer planter suits the space better...

Is there a way I can neatly attach pieces of 2x2" trim in a way that it makes a nearly invisible seam?

>>2776276
since its trim use a scarf joint.

>>2776276
>>2776364
Agreed, a scarf joint could work, but the glue-up is tricky unless it's a proper scarf joint (picrel). With the scarf joint in >>2776364, you'll have to very carefully secure the sides, the faces, and the ends to prevent slippage, and you'll still end up with slippage.

Have you considered any redesigns? I'm thinking of either a modular design with interlocking wall pieces, or a simple decorative piece every 2 2/3' to cover the joint.

>>2776369
Lol, that explains why my scarf joints were an utter bitch to clamp—i didn’t have any faces

It was mdf, so i left it overlapped, sanded the shit out of it to re-flatten it.

Now I use butt joints, dowels, and filler and everyone is happy. Or happy-er.

>>2776457
Yeah, scarf joints are okay if you have the right tooling, but most people don't, and it takes too damn long if you don't. The most accessible way is probably a router table and template to get the profile in picrel, but if you're using scarf joints, you're probably dealing with long boards or timbers, and most people don't have 10ft feed tables for their router.

The only place I'd personally use a scarf joint is with baseboards, and even then I'd go well out of my to avoid risking a joint/seam in something so visible.

I’m contemplating getting a tenon cutter to make some chairs. Do they work as well as they do in the videos? And wouldn’t it be really easy for them to go off center or off square?

Recommendations or alternatives welcome