/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2755264
>Last updated years ago
1156 days, what's so hard about that?

>>2755268
>1156 days, what's so hard about that?
OP from the other thread here, I didn't bother to do the math and the new OP must have copied it from my thread
>>2755264
Not enough Josefs

>>2755271
yeah I did just copy your thread which is the reason you shouldn't shit it up with your laziness.
Before you accuse me of being lazy I've had to work very hard today so I couldn't be bothered to do it properly. At least I have an excuse.
Hopefully someone will do it properly next time...

>>2755272
I did not accuse you of anything. If anything, I am grateful that you helped me not bake again. Because when I bake I shit not only my thread but any others copied blindly from it.

>>2755274
So instead of learning to do something properly you'll just not do it?
I've never come across someone more apathetic in my life. Even the homeless bums in the town centre continue to harass me even after I tell them no multiple times.
You are the living embodiment of a 4 day old helium balloon.
I almost take pity on you for being grateful but I am too disgusted with the paragraph I just read.
Have a wonderful day.

I have and will be printing non stop for a while.
Took me around 40 minutes on my k1 for the eyelid.

>>2755279
>So instead of learning to do something properly you'll just not do it?
READ NIGGA READ
I have tried, for dog's sake last thread was such a try, and I will again if need be. I was just telling you that I wasn't accusing you of anything. If you want to just get mad at shit go to >>>/pol/.

>>2755281
Please accept my deepest apologies for the above post it was certainly out of character for both myself and the /3dpg/ brand. As a token of my sympathies, please accept this humble trophy I've created for you and uploaded to thingiverse.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6473679
I can only hope this exchange has not permanently soured relations between us.
Thank you and have a pleasant evening.

>>2755284
Please good sir, accept my apologies for bodging the previous thread. I will print a copy as soon as reasonably possible and hold it with my dearest cherish when remembering you. In the future, when my turn to bake comes, I will be more careful. Accept this picture of a Dickosaur in return as my own token of heartfelt cordiality and fraternity.

>>2755272
He didn't accuse you shitass, I accused you of being a lazy bastard. I didn't bake the last thread, but I did bake 30 of the last ~36 threads. I have a python script to do it, but sometimes I'm drunk and I don't hit the button. I'm just happy the thread number is correct <3

>>2755295
OP from the old thread, current OP was not a lazy bastard, he followed me blindly. I am the lazy bastard.

>>2755300
Oh I know that now, but the accusation still happened.

we're off to a great start, like premium PLA getting laid down on textured PEI

>>2755320
:)

budget bedslinger printers are now printing at 250mm/s for their default speed, how the hell do i get my shitbox to do that

>>2755339
You buy a new one.

>>2755339
First of all 250mm/s is a marketing lie
Secondly no one uses mm/s to print with because it's worthless. The major limiting factor with your printer will be the maximum extruder flow. Hence why there is a setting for 'volumetric flow'.
Do some test prints where you up the volumetric flow value until the prints start become weak. That's literally it. You are simply not pushing your printer to its limit because you've setup the slicer wrong.
If you get ringing then stop putting sharp corners on your model. Learn what a radius is and make it bigger.

>>2755348
400+ is the marketing lie, 250 mm/s is the actual operating speed

>>2755210
Based Ryouko chad

>>2755348
>If you get ringing then stop putting sharp corners on your model. Learn what a radius is and make it bigger.
Go back
>>>/3/

Couple of threads ago I said I someone reached out to me and offered to pay me to model a building and print a few copies of it. I was okay with this, and just said buy me a coffee and we'll call it quits.

Turns out they liked it a lot and now want x50 items printed, to which they said they'd pay. Eacg print is ~15 hours and 150g of filament
This job would eat up approx. 40 days of printing on my Ender 3 v2, plus the hassle of not printing much of my own stuff in the meantime. How should I charge for this?

>>2755376
i don't have many active clients, but i charge $5 an hour of print time

>>2755376
It depends on the part. I sold stuff that took about 6 hours total on an Ender 3 Neo for £1.70 each which ended up being £100~

Sometimes I put stuff into quote things for 3d printing companies and work based off that

Been printing gridfinity for my wood shop and kitchen for the last week. Anyone have any nice prints I may not have found? My favorite so far are just the gridfinity feet so I can make wooden boxes and gridfinity-ize them, and the impact bit storage 2x4 bin that nicely fits my bit set with room leftover. Wonderful upgrade from the tupperware and yogurt bins I've used for the last several years. Been great for screws and finishing nails too, using them bins with the label space.

>>2754800
CAD anon from last thread please guide me.
I've used sketchup for some woodworking projects before but I'd like to learn a 'real' CAD for modeling as well as future wood projects. Is blender a legit option? Have been planning on freecad and didn't know before now that blender has CAD capabilities.

>>2755376
Option 1) Check prices for a print farm to fulfil the order, then mark up a few percent.

Option 2) Add up the combined filament cost (~8kg) and the cost of a new high speed printer (and/or belt-bed printer, if you expect to be doing bulk orders a lot in the future) that will just do this job for the first few weeks of its life, and charge them 1/50 of the combined total per model.

>>2755376
Charge by the hour and by the gram of filament. show them a sample invoice broken down by part. There are some (reddit) threads about this if you search for how people who run print farms charge for parts.

I've installed a BLTouch to my Ender 3v2 and flashed the correct firmware but it doesn't release the probe when homing causing it to drill into the glass platform, has anyone had this issue before?

Video: https://mega.nz/file/I78hFCSZ#8jkM97aHlPA4AVzSJ7MWFHz2gUU7BxtxDNMkT4x6VWk

>>2755467
First of all, write some custom G-code to test it without ramming your nozzle into your bed. Have you a multimeter? See if the voltage on the two signal pins of the BLtouch change like they should. If one of the pins changes when the probe should be dropped, then it's a problem with your probe. If not, it's a problem with mainboard, probably firmware. Did you compile Marlin yourself? And did you confirm the firmware change?

>>2755467
inductive probe
Things that need to touch the bed are garbage by comparison, and a thing that relies on dropping and raising a probe out of the probe... fuck that shit.
I'm stunned BullshitLameTouch became so popular that various boards have sockets specifically for that crap, when inductive probes are are significantly smaller, good for any metallic bed and even better for metal foil surfaced beds, and are repeatedly accurate to 3 or 4 decimal places of a millimeter.
...and as a worst case for a 12mm inductive sensor on aluminium bed: can be several millimeters above from the nozzle tip at all times, much further on springsteel, so it will NEVER collide with the bed.

>>2755376
If you're mass producing it's time to make a silicone mold

>>2755467
use the miriscoc firmware if you havent already, its really good

>>2755534
Agreed I have an inductive probe on two of my printers, I have 2 printers with glass bed, so inductive probe is out of the question, however, I 3d printed
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5959748

and it has worked great, if given the option I would prefer inductive where ever I can.

>>2755379
>>2755380
>>2755413
>>2755416
Thank you gents. I did a bit of googling and most of it is pretty simple; cost of filament, a few failure rates, design time, etc. The Prusa and other calculators only seem to calculate direct material and direct costs.

What I'm struggling to punch a number in on is the use-time for the printer. If I want to pay the printer off in 3 months, this job then costs $0.32c / printing hour. This is far lower than what I've seen elsewhere, but it's also my first side job and I'm kind of excited about it (hence I'm paying myself $15.60 minimum wage for design time). The bottom charts show that at 50 units, at 0.32c/printing hour, I come away with $369.43 profit, but if it's at $1 (the minimum elsewhere I've seen) then it's nearly $1000 profit.

Any advice on arriving at the right $/printing hour, particualrly for job #1?

> I like spreadsheets okay

>>2755536
I think the structure of the building is too complicated to mold. It has elevated skywalks between buildings and terrain features.

(and they want to pay me, so I don't really have incentive to tell them to do otherwise)

after doing my direct drive upgrade, is it worth putting my leftover extruder motor thats stronger than the axis motors on one of the axis? i imagine its worth doing on the Y axis since the bed is heavier, seems like most newer bedslingers are using the 42-40 motor on everything anyway

>>2755555
>Quint of quints, nice

Got the axis on the graphs slightly wrong, they shoudl read 1 - 10 - 30 - 50, not Unit - 1 - 10 - 30

what's the current best way to 3d scan a person? I have an iphone 15 with lidar, or a mirrorless camera that does 4k and 26mp photo. The idea is to make a dress bust with it so size accuracy is important

>>2755555
You're missing rent for the room.

>>2755562
you dont need to lie here anon, a clone a willy kit is only 40 dollars last i checked

E5pro anon here.
>Looking into linear rails, the CoreXY linear rail conversion.
>E3D V6 hotend
>Should I do direct drive? Does that negate the benefit of removing so much weight from the gantry?
>What ver. raspberry pi should I get for klipper? I see them referenced a lot but never which pi anymore
>SKR something mainboard
>BLtouch, I'm just gonna meet in the middle and get one thats ~15$ since they can be found as low as 1$ on ali and up to 30-40 on amazon

>>2755574
>linear rails
watch out for shitty quality rails and/or balls, iirc there were guides on refilling chinky rails with non-chinky balls
>V6
gotta pick what heater block to use, watch for leakage and thermal expansion issues (why aren't they mounted by the bottom of the heater block?)
>direct drive
less stuff to go wrong, can be pretty light, generally considered a good idea
>pi version
iirc it doesn't matter, you should be able to run klipper on older pi 3s and even old android phones and stuff
>bltouch
listen to the guy(s) above and consider an inductive probe instead, less to go wrong

gonna make an enclosure?

>>2755562
Photogrammetry

>>2755577
>shitty quality rails and/or balls
good to note, I often forget that just because it's all the same pool of chinese shit that there's levels to quality control and materials
>(why aren't they mounted by the bottom of the heater block?)
I wondered the same thing too the first time I disassembled mine, not sure. Probably to keep the heat from dissipating into the frame, even though that could be avoided.
>less stuff to go wrong, can be pretty light, generally considered a good idea
will check it out
>klipper on older pi 3s and even old android phones
Alright, I'm not too familiar with current pi's and all my androids got stolen unfortunately. See how much I can avoid spending.
>inductive probe
I kind of like the (relative) plug and play nature of the BL, are there guides out there for getting one up and running without a ton of extra tinkering?
>enclosure
Yea, was considering the simple foam puzzle-piece box but since the "official" ones on aliexpress are only 30$ I'll probably end up with one of them. Would've gotten an Ikea lack if my nearby Ikea had any.

>>2755574
check if the rails are designed for load or unloaded movement: loaded will require a minimum weight to be pressing the 'car' toward the 'rail' before it will move freely. Probably NOT what you want on a 3dprinter.

>>2755544
I've read that aluminium/copper foil *tape* gives significantly larger detection ranges for inductive probes, if it's anywhere near the rated range for iron (usually ~ the same as the probe external diameter) then you should be able to detect it through glass from up to <10mm away with a 12mm diameter inductive probe. Or you could get a springsteel bed plate like they sell with PEI etc, and just use it to sit under the glass to inductive probe against.
Also: iirc capacative sensors work on glass, and have the same form factor as inductive probes.

>>2755587
actually, iirc i was wondering if tape would work, or if they were talking about a big block/thick strip of copper/alu...
so i may be delusional on that suggestion...

>>2755587
>Also: iirc capacative sensors work on glass, and have the same form factor as inductive probes.

oh shit, thats neat, I'll look into this.

>>2755562
there was an iphone app that used the faceid sensors on the front to sort of 3d scan objects with a point cloud, don't remember the name but probably worth checking out

>>2755583
>are there guides out there for getting one up and running without a ton of extra tinkering
No clue, but there's no reason why it can't be. Looks like some people already sell the sensors explicitly for 3D printer use. Since it's a simple digital output on these sensors, it should be possible to use these with normal BLtouch-enabled firmware.

>>2755599
Heges or something like that, I think. The results weren’t very good in my (admittedly limited) experience

>>2755574
Just ZeroG that printer. Mercury One.1 kit from a reputable source if you can afford it. Risking to get bad hardware fucking sucks and costs time. Or just do a normal rail conversion with genuine hiwin linear rails.

Direct drive has the main advantage of shorter retraction distances and enables printing of flexible filament like TPU. A bowden setup with a decent extruder is in many cases just as good and lighter for rigid filaments. If you have a creality extruder with the brass feed gears, replace it right away first and keep the bowden. People say bowdens suck because they use a bad extruder then upgrade to direct drive with a decent extruder and omagoooood waaaaow it werks now.

As for probing the BL touch is okay but slow. Good accuarcy is only obtained at slow probing speeds like 3mm/s on the Z and heaters off as the hall sensor is susceptible to EMI. Consider a klicky (cheap) or a Cartographer bed scanner (fast but pricey at $35)

Get a mainboard that can run klipper using a serial connection instead of USB. Configuring marlin is retarded and gay and you seem to have already understood this. Only reason to use marlin is because of the robotic arm kinematics. You can get away with even the pi zero for klipper if you don't intend to run a webcam. It can be powered right from the printers mainboard. If you need a webcam and such get a pi3 or 4. The main consideration aside from this is how many steppers you want to run. But it's less of an issue on klipper since it supports multiple MCUs and you can add at least one board. I'd get something that supports CAN bus as it can make wiring much more managble. TMC2209 or better drivers is a must.

V6 circular mount fucking sucks. My dragon hf keeps spinning in the mount as i try to change nozzles. Gotta rigid mount that fucker.

>>2755613
>Cartographer bed scanner
Not that guy but
>klipper only bed probe
Breh
There's not even any guarantee that it will actually work. Klipper is very fussy about ABL probes. For example my chinkshit clone BLtouch can't be used for ABL because klipper fucks up the compensation. The mesh is fine and representative of the actual bed but when it comes to actually compensating it fucking sucks. It's worse than having no compensation.
Did some tests with a limit switch on a bracket and with that it actually compensates correctly.

>>2755621
try testing if your probe is even giving repeatable results
https://www.klipper3d.org/G-Codes.html?h=probe_accuracy#probe_accuracy

>>2755622
It is giving good results, as it works just fine as an endstop and it also worked very well with marlin's ABL.
But since you bothered to link that I will entertain you.

probe accuracy results: maximum 1.567500, minimum 1.545000, range 0.022500, average 1.554500, median 1.553750, standard deviation 0.007649

>>2755613
>You can get away with even the pi zero for klipper if you don't intend to run a webcam

Probably only with the newer zero2, and probably only on something simple like an i3, ie: not a coreXY... i'm sure it would work, but you might be pushing its limits, especially after you start exploring all the cool shit klipper can do.
That said, there are low spec clone-pis now, some integrated to the board. I have a MKS Skipr which is like that, seems like quite a good solution compared to when i was running a separate pi years ago. Cheap, all in one... theres OS drawbacks that may become more relevant in the future as MKS stops giving a shit, which they do the moment it hits the e-store, but for now its a sleek, cheap option that I would choose again with little hesitation if i were to accidentally fry mine right now.

>>2755623
Seems useable. I wonder why knipper would lose the plot though?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004065901350.html?
This isnt any probe im using right now, but just the first one i tested and made a note of. The digits it gives are suspiciously samey, probably more due to the probe's threshold circuitry than anything erroneous.. and the multitude of <$5 (threaded metal cylinder types) inductive probes I have bought recently all produce similar repeatability, they less suspiciously) show more variation in the numbers ...after the 4th or 5th decimal. So they are all insanely precise.
// probe accuracy results: maximum 0.900000, minimum 0.897500, range 0.002500, average 0.899500, median 0.900000, standard deviation 0.001000
I love these fucking things :)

>>2755587
What am i looking at here?

>>2755587
>>2755596
Capacitive sensors are meant for gate operations, not distance measuring and are shit in any unstable environment like your kitchen, garage, unheated room, etc., basically everywhere your average /3dpg/ user puts their printer, as shown by our based boy 6years ago https://youtu.be/il9bNWn66BY.. There's a reason why everyone experimented with lasers/IR/ToF in general before we agreed on solid aluminium plates.

>>2755613
>People say bowdens suck because they use a bad extruder then upgrade to direct drive with a decent extruder and omagoooood waaaaow it werks now.
There's a very subjective truth to that. On a baseline precision should always improve with DD as nobody in current year got a clue how to compensate for the length of their tube, less so on chink machines. Ultimaker supports first question is probably still "Did you modify your bowden tube?".

>>2755621
>Klipper is very fussy about ABL probes
A ton of people are succesfully using klickyprobes (and other types) with klipper. This sounds like a (you) problem.
>klipper fucks up the compensation
It did for me too using a genuine bltouch. Because my probe was mounted with a y-axis offset thus I got x-axis twist affecting my measurements since the y-axis offset works as a lever and amplifies and trabslates the x-axis twist into a height diffrence. The bed mesh would look to be representative like you say but is useless. Try x-axis twist compensation maybe if your probe is mounted in front of or behind the nozzle.
>did some tests with a limit switch
So you literally made your own klicky probe and came to the conclusion that it works. Good for you. Why don't you keep using that instead of trying to make what doesn't work, work for you?

>>2755633
>What am i looking at here?
1 of 2 inductive 12mm PNP NO sensors, as Z-endstops.
After 4 years sitting idle in the morning sun every day my prior shitty zendstop design was cracking, so as part of the resurrection process where I tried to print a new version of the next thing likely to break, making any further printing really difficult... and i decided to try something different to the usual shitty microswitches. I am extremely tired of sensors that require something to hit them before they trigger.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006023472678.html
The idea was also to make room around the gantry/Z leadscrew for me to look at cablechaining the hotbed.
They actually work better than expected despite me not having the spring (yet) to stop the top thumbscrew from unscrewing itself. The bottom thumbscrew hasnt moved on either endstop, so i can happily wait for the springs.

>Capacitive sensors are meant
Ah, yeah i thought I remembered there was a gotcha.

>>2755555
You can still make silicon molds for each part and put it together like a puzzle. It'd be the difference between a couple of days or slightly more and 40 days of printing like you said. But oh well.

>>2755638
>x-axis twist affecting my measurements
Any mechanical issues that you are implying do not exist, as the very same setup produced near perfect results with marlin ABL. With klipper the compensation is completely fucked.
>Why don't you keep using that instead of trying to make what doesn't work, work for you?
Because it's a job in and of itself.
>install the probe
>dial in Z offset
>modify the gcode so the print pauses before it starts
>after home and probe, remove the probe
>hit resume, printer now starts printing
Every. Fucking. Print.
No.
Just no.
The BLtouch just works. It's this piece of shit firmware that is kicking me in the balls at every opportunity. Even worse the documentation is incomplete and they even pulled a retcon on the Raspberry Pi MCU page so they can fill it with bullshit instructions that do not work.

>>2755407
If you want to design functional parts and especially so with multiple components I don't think blender will be the right tool for it. aecert robots has a video right about him switching from blender to fusion for a robo spider design, you can see there some usual complaints

>>2755668
>aecert robots
You *could* do that in blender, but the application of blender constraints would be a lot more work than fusion, and there may be instances where it became not worth it...dunno.
Still, it's pretty simple to assign hooks, and the various constraints... but yeah, fusion has been designed specifically to make this stuff gumby-friendly, and autodesk has been going hard since i was a cad operator in the 90s, so they have a strong toolset and workflow.

>>2755667
piezo is always an option
My homemade ones were always tricky to get just right, but then i was trying to make them sit on top of a jhead and only allow it to move 0.3mm up into the piezo disk.... with a bowden hole drilled into its center. So that was great when it worked, not so much when i was still refining the printed aspect.
Of course - i forget their name (precisionpiezo?) - but whoever was trying to make a commercial thing of piezo 4 years ago made one that was basically just a little pcb that went under your bed or something.. i guess they might have better options now too.
Piezo in general is excellent for this kind of repeatability and resolution, and it does rely on the nozzle touching the bed, so if you can find a system that works for you it's probably ideal for glass.

>>2755687
>precisionpiezo
yeah, here ya go
https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/
Looks like small improvements to the same gear they sold way back when i was fixated with piezo. Seems like their products should be quite reliable and easy to use now....albeit being UK based; their prices are an order of magnitude more expensive than what the items are worth to make.

vidrel: timestamped
https://youtu.be/rIb4wtEoE2w?t=158

What are examples of something I can make with a 3D printer and sell for at least 56 $ a piece?

>>2755697
Funko pops.

yeah, he complains about the relevant issues... although personally my above-jhead piezo system was pretty much ramming the aluminium bed; i had it moving quite fast and i'm sure glass would have been fine. Also the speed issue he complains about is just him being dumb: fast XY motion is irrelevant as long as you pause before probing Z.
Filament was never an issue for me either, I just probed and after heating bed and nozzle, extruding 20mm off the side of the bed, and then bed-meshing immediately before each print, any PLA dribble was smooshed until the nozzle touched the bed and it never made any difference as far as i recall.

...and the price. Yep. The price has always been an issue.

Maybe try the under-bed type first if you go the piezo route.

>piezo probes
>inductive probes
>capacitive probes
>inductive probes
>fucking microswitches

Why does this stupidity persist? To probe nozzle contact, use direct nozzle-probing. Put the load cell behind the nozzle or behind the bed, either works. Measure the parameter you actually want to measure, not dance about with some random strap-on proxy that vaguely corresponds to the actual measurement,
Just don't go full retard like the Voron and fuck about with a wiggling carriage. Do it right.

>>2755697
You don't make and sell. You make a website they upload and then it quotes. That way yes you can get $50 or more. Last time I checked I couldn't believe the prices.

>>2755712
> they upload and then it quotes
what

>>2755723
Exactly what it sounds like
You upload a file and the website spits out a quote. That's how the professional print services are doing it.

>>2755697
Sell your design services on your local flavor of market site. There are many print services, but less so design services for clueless boomers who need someone to talk to.
>>2755712
See something like https://hp3dprint.eu/3d/online-3d-printing-quote/

>>2755710
Basically Creality tried that back then and failed so miserably they demotivated the whole field until our lord and savior Joseph decided to make it right. Why no one has stepped up now? I can only assume PCB gimmicks are cheaper.

>>2755516
I don't have a multimeter. I'm using https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/download/20240122/Ender3V2-427-BLTUBL-MPC-20240125.bin this and I've tried creality's BLTouch firmware too with the same issue. What do you mean by confirming the firmware change? it appears to load the firmware each time I load it up without the SD card inside.

>>2755667
>No mechanical issues exist
Hey, I'll take your word for it even though i don't actually belive you. All printers have mechanical imperfections and it never hurts to do an axis twist calibration, it takes 10 minutes and costs no money. But obviously you got something wrong with your klipper config.
>much work with a klicky/microswitch
You're supposed to set such a probe up so the printer can pick it up from the frame and write a macros that does those things for you. You etablished that you got good results with an endstop probe using your bracket, now finish the job properly and turn it into a solution that works. Those macros should be used in your START_PRINT macro that gets invoked by having START_PRINT in your slicers start g-code. Either way im done giving you advice, good luck with your printer. You can always go back to Marlin.

Just woke up, I meant to say I'm using https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/download/20240122/Ender3V2-422-BLTUBL-MPC-20240125.bin because my board is 422.

>>2755752
>You're supposed to set such a probe up so the printer can pick it up from the frame and write a macros that does those things for you
My dude, I do not want to be designing my own fucking probe when I paid 30$ for a probe already.
The macros part is doable but designing my own mounts and parts, not really. I'm shit at CAD.

>You can always go back to Marlin.
I could but the price to pay is linear advance. And I like sharp corners on my prints.

>Cursed Anon
Nothing cursed here. You bought an Ender and got what you paid for.

>>2755765
I'm going to write your name in my devil's bible...

>>2755769
What's wrong with your face?

>>2755769
What does you being Jewish have to do with this?

>>2755599
>>2755562

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFyuZsr0olU
You will always need to do mesh cleanup yourself. I hope you're good in blender.

>>2755555
At 0.32c per hour is that you charging $4.80 per part? I was charging £1.70 per part and they were like 4g of filament and it took me 5 hours I think to print 25? Now I can do 30 in 3 hours and I'd still charge the same desu. I priced it based on an online 3D printing service, cut out tax (not dodging it I don't make enough to have to charge VAT) and ignored postage costs as I was hand delivering it. Explained how I was undercutting online by 20% and no postage costs, ezpz got the job

I recently charged £30 for 50 guitar picks too, don't just base it off material cost + printing time. Base it off what the product you are making is actually worth or will sell for

>>2755828
>£30 for 50 guitar picks
Good for you, anon. But damn, where do you find these kind of morons?

>>2755834
I mean it was a custom guitar pick with his design on. Multi-material print. Wasn't just a normal plain pick

>>2755836
Barely the point. Just tack a pack of standard delrins and run them through a printer. It's not an FFF application.

>>2755838
So when some one comes to you and is like "can you make me guitar picks" you'd just go "no go buy some delrin ones and run them through a printer"?

>>2755840
No, again, i'm surprised he approached you at all. Definitely would've taken the money as well.

>>2755841
I mean its not like the average person is going to be an expert in getting custom stuff made
Having a look at online services if anything I was cheaper

dam, my 15 hour print shifted a layer, but its a prop so il just smooth it out with filler, thought i had everything set properly, all my belts are on correctly, wonder if my stepper motor skipped as the y axis motor is about 39 C but thats within its range

>>2755858
Ahh the bed slinger life....

>>2755858
>>2755863
Gentlemen, I present to you another gift.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6475434

The layer shifted calibration cube. For those of us here with good quality printers, we do not experience the nastiness of layer shifting. But we were all amateurs at one point. Some of us owned bed slingers too. As a way to remember the early days, I've created the layer shifted calibration cube and given it away to all of you for free.
I wish you all a pleasant evening.

>>2755732
Of all the things I had to fiddle with on my CR-6, the bed levelling worked straight out of the box and continued to work without touching it for years.
Prusa was a johnny-come-lately, even Bambu had rolled out contact levelling to their entire lineup line before the mk.4 was released!

>>2755883
you are a colossal faggot

>>2755883
Top quality shit poaste.
>>2755899
Nice digits but you are objectivley wrong. The biggest faggots here are the troons, furries and anime nerds who frequent this board. It would be a better board without them.

>>2755884
Good for you and yeah, bambu came first, my bad, but if you dont remember the endless complains and laughs about scratched beds you're either glorifying your own machine or have a bad case of dementia.

well that was a waste, think il just re print it split on its side, the previous prints leading up to the axe head went great

>>2755929
This is what you deserve. All people printing useless cosplay bullshit and functionless landfill like baby yodas need to have their printers catch fire.
Print a replacement part, or an ImPrOvEd printer component you cretinous scum.

is the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon really that superior to anything else? I'm trying to decide between the Prusa MK4 and the X1 Carbon and I want to know if there is more to it than trading privacy(prusa) for speed (bambu lab).

>>2755948
If you go for the prusa you're stuck with the speeds it can do, there's not much you can do to make it faster.
If you go with the bambu, you can toss out the spyware board and replace it with whatever you want. Problem 100% solved.

>>2755950
>toss out the spyware board
elaborate, please

Also, I've been reading the Prusa fans say they don't trust the durability of the X1C, is this something to be concerned or is it just fanboyism?

>>2755952
I think the proprietary parts thing is a legit concern. I saw a video of some guy with a print farm and he compared the P1P to his Prusa things. The P1P had less print failures and thus made him more money so he bought more P1P's over going back to Prusa

But we won't know about longterm longevity until they've been out for longer

>>2755952
>elaborate, please
The mainboard is most likely some locked down stuff that can't be reflashed. So into the trash it goes.
Replace with a BTT board or whatever is the current thing.

>the Prusa fans say they don't trust the durability of the X1C
Rich, coming from people who use a printer held together with plastic parts. At least the bambu seems to be all metal where it counts.
Also let me remind you we are talking about a printer that can't handle an average european summer day. No joke here, Prusa support said if the printer is exposed to temps above 35C then warranty is void.

>>2755751
Compile it yourself bro. It's easy, just follow a tutorial on it. The worst part about it is having to download VScode bloatware.

>>2755883
lel

>>2755955
>temps above 35C then warranty is void.
lol
.AU here, lately it's 33C+ in the shade under a fan, if I didnt have a high speed fan blasting a heatsink on top of my extruder the PLA would be wrapped around the spindle in about 5 minutes....But surely prusa dont print their components from PLA?

>>2755955
It was jailbroken so Bambu enabled you to do it without jailbreaking: https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/bambu-lab-enables-open-source-firmware-on-the-x1-3d-printers-227600/

>>2755967
>But surely prusa dont print their components from PLA?
It's PETG as far as I know. Even so, motor mounts, the hotend mount or other parts close to the heated bed might get hot enough to soften up.

>>2755948
I have had very few failed prints on the X1C. It has been nice. I wish I had a bigger print volume though. I found a guitar body I would like to make and it just barely fits on the plate.

>>2755914
No, I just never had a scratched bed or any other issues related to probing. The stock extruder was garbage, and replacing it kicked of a wave of replacing the weakest link (swap to bimetal heatbreak, swap to CHT nozzle, replace part cooling duct) but bed levelling kept on trucking throughout. Didn't even need to mess with the load-cell calibration.

>>2755955
>The mainboard is most likely some locked down stuff that can't be reflashed. So into the trash it goes.
X1Plus is coming out soon, they already have the rooted firmware Bambu are intending to release in hand. But yes, swap the board and it's a premade CoreXY frame and motion gantry, but probably better to go the X1Plus route if you really want to tinker, because then you can take advantage of the AMS without spending £600 on a Palette or trying to take the make-the-Prusa-MMU-not-complete-shit challenge (European Extreme, no wallclips).

Or you can just stick in in LAN mode. Nobody has manged to wireshark an X1C 'phoning home' when in LAN mode, but if you're extra-paranoid you can just stick it on its own VLAN.

>>2755828
>I was charging £1.70 per part and they were like 4g of filament and it took me 5 hours I think to print 25?
Damn that's nice. But no, this is $12 per part, each part is ~14 hours print time.

For 5 hours and 25 units, each piece was taking you 12 minutes, or £8.50 an hour.
If I did it at the same rate you did, for 675 hours and 50 units, each piece would be 13.5 hours, or £115 lol. I'm proposing just £11.18 per piece (x10 times less).
Kudos to you on finding someone to pay you 1.70 for 12 minutes print...

>>2755568
Please, as long as I make one official sale, that part of the room is tax deductible. So is the electricity used. And the cost of the furniture to hold the 3D printer.

>>2756006
I also made the model. I cloned a part that is no longer made any more. Like I said though the value of what you are making is probably more than the time+filament. I honestly recommend putting it into a 3D printing service and basing your price off that and explaining to them "this is how much it would cost elsewhere but I won't charge you postage."

$12 per print is incredibly cheap I feel, that model probably has a lot more value than that

>>2756010
It probably is, considering I modelled several buildings for them too. Cheers, will look at the printing service.

>>2756026
Good luck fella, hope you get a decent payday

>>2756000
God, i'm tired of morons like you shitting up this board. Fuck off.

>>2755955
is it possible to jailbreak the P series? possibly even install klipper on it?

How is prusa still selling this piece of shit?

>>2756049
It's cute.

>>2755972
I guess. Printing PET-G does involve 90/240C+, but very little of those heat sources should damage the printed parts I typically see on prusas, and 35C isn't unusual in many parts of the world. Never mind that pretty much everything 'above' PLA benefits from enclosure of those 90/240C+ temperatures.
It's still a bit weird. Reads a lot like: "we take any opportunity to arbitrarily void your warranty".

>>2755947
Lol no

>>2755613
>Just ZeroG that printer.
THANK YOU. I had a list somewhere of the potential builds out there and ZeroG slipped my mind. Endorphin, CoreXY, ZeroG. Most searches in the 3DP world (outside of specifics) come down to "BEST X THING TO BUY AND 10 OTHER THINGS TO BUY"
As far as which build guide to follow, ZeroG is the most up-to-date? I'll keep your mention of quality hardware in mind. Appreciate the info for Pi's as well.
>>2755621
What would you say is ideal in terms of bed leveling? The E5pro is supported on one side of the bed, I imagine some form of bed leveling is needed for the sake of convenience and time.
>>2755634
What are those drawbacks you mention?

>>2756070
>drawbacks
MKS dont opensource everything, and their probably hacky job of adapting armbian to run the combo board comes with a big 'dont upgrade the OS because reasons' caveats. Meaning at some point someone else will either perform the same adjustments to a newer base OS, or the existing hacky OS will eventually become problematic due to age.
You only need to see the multiple typos on their schematic diagrams and pcb silkscreens to see that they dont check anything, but rather just churn till it works, then move on. This laxness also doubles as designed redundancy: so we need to buy again later.
That said, someone *could* make the required adjustments to armbian or whatever linux distro.... and there is already at least one right now, but how useful it is i cant say. What I saw didnt seem particularly compelling on the surface of its documentation, but maybe thats just me.
Someone with a spare board needs to set it up and comment before anyone else will be interested enough to stop the project dying, i suspect.

>>2756026
I already started my website. It'll be done by either tomorrow or the day after. I'll charge $1 per gram. I could charge more, and really I'm the cheapest game in town.

Is this normal for an ender 3v2?
I guess i'll see how a test print goes

>>2756160
You are trying to print on Eyjafjallajökull. You're supposed to volcano mod the nozzle not the bed.

>>2756160
2mm? that's pretty bad, was that while it was heated up? pretty easy to shim up though.

picrel was using a different bed on the right, so i'm thinking its not(just) the bed.
Any tips on what parts might need tightening/loosening or replacing?
>>2756168
1.37 variance
Yeah, heated
>>2756166
funny guy

>>2756168
Oh really? Shim up how? Look at the geometry ffs. Is he supposed to put a hockey puck underneath the middle of the bed and clamp the corners down? Putting it upside down on a flat surface and whacking the middle with a hammer would be a better option. Or better yet, just order a new plate and transfer the heater and thermistor to it.

>>2756166
Kek

I have access to a set of 3d printers from my local library's makerspaces. Would it be possible to print one of these RepRap machines using those? I've never used a 3d printer and I dunno how much printing would be required/what i'd need to get other than stuff I can print out. Thanks anons.

>>2756183
that sounds like an awful idea, so bad that you should try to, so that you can see how bad of an idea that is

>>2756070
No worries. I have an Ender 5 Plus that I've been constantly fighting with. If it isn't the bed leveling, it's the z-steppers coming unsynced, gantry not squared, x-axis twist... Had to upgrade the hotend to an all metal one and swap the extruder because crealitys fucking suck and would start grinding on the filament if there was a lot of retractions... And then when you get it all set and everything is working right the useless five(!) fucking delrin wheels need to have their concentric nuts adjusted. I understand the pain fellow ender 5 owners go through. I hate creality so much it is unreal. I should have gotten something better from the get go..

The ZeroG group just finished the Hydra mod and have moved on to beta testing a full enclosure mod but as far as I know the enclosure mod will require a complete frame modification with new extrusions.. They also have a very active community discord where you can get support.

>>2756170
Got dual-Z? If so, it's possible that your X gantry is bowed from the stress of the mounting. Arguably that could happen even with a single Z screw, if the wheel tensioning is offset to such a biased direction, I can't remember. Or if your vertical extrusions bow inwards somehow. More likely though your bed is just warped. Bend it back into shape using some brute force.

>>2756171
I was thinking a bunch of alfoil layers, but considering it's over 1mm, you're probably right it isn't sensible. I'd try bending the plate into shape on a flat kitchen benchtop. That's what I did with my Z screws. Once it's mostly there he can use shims if he sees fit.
>just order a new plate and transfer the heater and thermistor to it
The beds of these printers are aluminium PCBs with the heater already built in.

>>2756183
Chances are their printers aren't in great shape. If they have commercial-grade, or semi-commercial like a bambu, then you might be able to, but I'd still hesitate. You almost certainly don't want to use PLA for it, and I doubt they'll let you print ABS inside a library unless the printers have their own chemical extraction system. PETG might be good enough, maybe.

Anyhow, instead of a reprap, try a more modern design. Like a V-Minion, or maybe a Voron 0. Those are small printers I'd trust to build parts for larger printers. The Voron is definitely more complicated, but might be better suited for bootstrapping to ABS with.

>>2756205
>z-steppers coming unsynced
Don't you have a belt between them?
>twist
tie rods

>>2756205
Isn't the k1 like $350 in the us. It cost me $470 I don't regret it. It does auto leveling. Plug and play.

>>2755883
I think I might bring this as g-code to the K1 at my workplace. Do you think you could add some Z-banding? Maybe even what looks like underextrusion on the top or bottom layers?

>>2755883
filthy casual
as if layer shifts happen all exactly the same amount and all toward the centre of the object.
Your simulation is lacking. A simulackka.

>>2755264
Are any of you into horticulture or hydroponics? I'm trying to think of nifty tools to print for the hobby.
So far all i have is a box for seed packets.

Dont say seedling tray or plantpot, they're cheap af.

>>2756209
Single Z.
In the image he right one is the OG glass bed, left is a magnetic one.
Ive just gone into manual tuning I can adjust a corner that sits at 0.72 down to 0.10 and get a piece of paper to get some friction
I'm confused as heck, maybe the bltouch is messed up or I'm fucking something up
I'm worried I'll run something and it will scratch the fuck out of the bed after manually tuning.

>>2756219
put a straightedge across the bed and see if you can get shims under the middle

>>2756209
One should be able to separate the PCB heater element from the aluminium sheet metal. Granted my favourite method of heating shit up to 90 degrees celcius untill glue looses it's adhesive properties wont work so one would need to go to town with a razor blade or thin knife, some suitable solvent and a great deal of patience. But if you're on a budget it would probably work.

Okay we misunderstood each other I thought you meant to shim up the bedplate, not the build surface on the plate. Because that is doable but regular foil would suck for that. Better to get some thicker foil sheets and kapton tape to keep it all neatly in place.

I did not belt mod my e5p as the electronics box is in the way and the issue has gone away since i switched to spring loaded POM anti-backlash nuts.
Im waiting on parts to do the mercury one conversion followed by the hydra mod with tripple independent z-drives.

I am looking for used plain cartesian machines to build an EDM/EMC. Do any other printers than the ender5 come to mind? No need for bedslinger recommendations.

>>2756049
>piece of shit
mine just works?

>>2756257
If it's not enclosed in the year 2024 it's a piece of shit.

>>2756049
>how
at 200% markup of course!

>>2755574
pizero, orange pi, any pi can run it. 2gb ram preferable if you are using a USB webcam, if using an IP cam then it doesn't matter

>>2756257
It's still a piece of shit if you factor in the price.
>inb4 i got mine used for $3.50
I don't care what price you specifically paid for yours. Prusa sells non enclosed slow as fuck bed slingers with load bearing pieces part of the kinematic system that can't handle a heated enclosure costing the same as a fucking voron in 2024 and idiots keep buying them. Prusas usage of the flat style art in their marketing is also enough reason to forever ignore them.

>>2756059
might be the electronics (capacitors and such) giving up more than the plastic parts

>>2756240
Well now I want to get some of that gold filament, looks good.

>>2756286
that's not very By Josef Prusa of you, anon

>>2756286
It warms my heart to know that when I take a day off from shitting down Jo's throat, someone else steps in and does it for me.

>>2756289
It's not, it's the plastic. It's specifically because Prusa makes their printers by printing them in Prusament PETG with 2 walls. Their parts are shit and will warp on a luke-warm day, or melt and fall apart in a 40C enclosure.

>>2756328
Nevermind Joseph being a weasel as usual, but them printing the mechanical parts as fast as possible without consideration about quality is hardly a secret at this point. Don't they have their little warning in the instructions anymore to print a set of replacements anyway?

>>2756336
>Don't they have their little warning in the instructions anymore to print a set of replacements anyway?
Yes. You buy the Mk4 for $1100 and it comes with instructions to make your own replacement parts as a precaution. If the faggot would just invest in injection molding for mass production his "factory" wouldn't be an overcrowded shithead fire-hazard, his products would be cheaper, his margins would be better, and he'd actually be able to keep up with demand instead of being constantly behind. Good printers, bad prices, pathetic beard-oil soaked company.

>>2756338
>Yes. You buy the Mk4 for $1100 and it comes with instructions to make your own replacement parts as a precaution.
Yeah that. Didn't needed to be done on a shitty Anycubic Mega btw.

>If the faggot would just invest in injection molding for mass production his "factory" wouldn't be an overcrowded shithead fire-hazard, his products would be cheaper, his margins would be better, and he'd actually be able to keep up with demand instead of being constantly behind.
I am certain, if he actually finally moves, he will do exactly that and sell it at an even higher premium for being industrial like his Delta or just chop the kit version because reasons.

Remember seeing pic related and thinking we're finally seeing less bogus products by Joseph? I'm willing to bet Bambu engineers thought the same before doing it themselves.

>>2755966
I compiled the mriscoc firmware + the extra features configuration but my Ender 3v2 still drills into the platform.

Video: https://mega.nz/file/I78hFCSZ#8jkM97aHlPA4AVzSJ7MWFHz2gUU7BxtxDNMkT4x6VWk

>>2756183
If you want to build a printer but don’t have access to one you could always do the voron print it forward program where you pay a small amount and someone prints the parts you need for you.

https://pif.voron.dev/

>>2756218
Ever checked out hoocho’s youtube channel?

https://youtube.com/@Hoocho

>>2756286
Not arguing that prusa is very competitive with the price to performance aspect. Comparing people who want a mk4 or mini to a voron is a bit dumb though. Totally different demographic.

>>2756379
ok. i'll compare with this then at roughly the same price point in eurozone.

>>2756386
I will say at more than $300 I get a bit hesitant. At more than $1000 I start to wonder what the industrial equivalent is. Cause honestly how much are those laser industrial 3d printers anyways...

>>2756415
The cheapest one of those I can find is $6,400 and comes in kit form that takes about 4 days to assemble: https://sintratec.com/sls-3d-printer/sintratec-kit/
After that they are tens of thousands of dollars

>>2755751
Even if you never printed anything wise DIYers have multimeters for the many wonderful things they enable in troubleshooting. Need not be expensive.

>ORIGINAL® PRUSA® By Josef Prusa®
Why is this necessary

is it like this?
Prusa = Linux
Bambu Lab = Mac
if so, which brand is Windows?

>>2756460
I'd say Prusa is Windows, Bambu is Mac, Creality and all the other shitmachines you tinker with endlessly are Linux

>>2755948
I just got a MK4 and I am very happy with it. The auto-calibration is very nice.

>>2756451
because narcissism and huffing beard oil is one hell of a combo

If I put a PLA printer in my bedroom are the fumes going to seep into the furniture and make my penis shrivel up?

>>2756522
yes but just print yourself a bigger one lol

>>2756415
Development is so rapid unless your business model will quickly pay for expensive gear you may prefer to run through less expensive equipment more often for less money tied up in rapidly depreciating equipment.

>>2756522
No,it's fine. It's going to keep you awake all night though if you're a light sleeper.

>>2756460
I'd say Anycubic. It works out of the box, especially as daily driver, but is never truly great.

Also Vorons are BSD. Thrown together by a bunch of perfectionists and pretty reliable, but needs solid knowledge before you even started. Community support can turn very elitist.

>>2756522
Yes.

>>2756418
Still an industrial machine with corresponding markup. We've seen DIY machines for less than 2k€.

i really take it for granted that im not a pour and can put my printer in a designated workshop that isnt my room

why the fuck does my p1s keep jamming like this in the extruder? its just scambu pla at stock temps (220/55) and i have never had this issue in the few hundred print hours the machine has with pla, pet, abs and pa from 220/55 up to 280/100. happened twice now and its literally the only real issue this machine has ever given me. dont mind the cut in the white filament, its from when i was trying to remove it, both colors jammed in the exact same way .

>>2756568
Is it 1.75mm PLA or did you buy something thicker by accident?
Is the feeder gear clear?
Is the feeder gear turning correctly?
Check that the spring is the right tension?

A new extruder part is $15, it might be worth replacing.

What are you guys printing for Valentine's day? This is my very first lithophane.

>>2756571
>unless these rolls are somehow extremely out of spec ive never bought anything bigger than 1.75 ever, but ive also had 0 problems with any bambu filament and plus id expect if they were THAT out of spec they would have a hard time loading and feeding in the first place
>yes
>i dont believe so when it jams because when trying to unload filament the extruder motor skips
>should be since the tension screw is supposed to be bottomed and tight which it is
15 bucks? a new unit is $35 and the hardened gears (which ive already installed) is another 20.

How can i remove the fans from the extruder head thing without destroying the wires? They came glued in like this

>>2756616
It's just cheap chinese hotglue. Usually I just pull them out. You can use a small flathead screwdriver and/or tweezers to try to remove the glue first if you'd prefer. If it puts up any fight, a small amount of isopropyl alcohol helps loosen hotglue.

>>2756616
just cut it off with an xacto knife

>>2756617
>cheap chinese hotglue
Can all the herd animals stop bothering to make at least two hive-standard pejoratives when mentioning anything chinese? It just makes your socially manipulated ignorance more tedious than it already is.

also
>How remoob wir it hab gloo?
oh wow, just wow.
Catastrophic competency crisis; here we come.

>>2756633
found the chinamen

>>2756633
You have some really thin yellow skin

Need some help with some reverse engineering. Wanting to get a 3d file of the inside of this quest 3 interface. My CAD skills aren't good enough to make a copy of this. Was thinking of maybe making an impression and then doing a 3d scan of the negative. This is assuming this is the best way to do it. If it is, has anyone done something similar? I did an impression with some modeling clay recently and the stuff required a lot of force to get the proper contours and dimensions. Or better yet can I just bypass the impression and a 3d scanner could pull the dimensions?

>>2756633
Poor bug man, so easily offended.

>>2756633
>hive-standard pejoratives
When was the last time you held something well made and thought to yourself "Of course it is, it was made in China!"? Outsourcing has been the bane of high quality tools over the last two decades, but hey words like "chinesium" can only come up from racism, absolutely no real world correlation to see here.

>>2756642
Just 3d scan it, measure it with a caliper and scale accordingly. You won't get around of repairing your mesh, but if you really don't want to you can use it as visual guide to recreate it from scratch. That's basically what happens on industry levels anyway.

>>2756642
What's your intention with it? There are custom facial interfaces available already, might save you the time and effort if the info you need is there.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6269738

>>2756232
>One should be able to separate the PCB heater element from the aluminium sheet metal
That would be like trying to split a 4-layer PCB. They're fused together really solidly. If you get it hot enough to delaminate the thin fibreglass bit from the aluminium, the solder mask atop the copper trace is going to be long gone. You'd be better off just going for a silicone adhesive heater and sticking that to your aluminium slab of choice, preferably a mains-powered one.

>>2756249
V-rollers are actually probably better than linear rails or guide rods for anything with chemicals involved. My only worry would be that the greater mass on the build plate might sag due to its cantilevered design, and you've still got the Z screw and guide rods to get gunky. Might be doable if you swap the screws for a 2/4-belt system, with V-rollers in the corners, but that's a fair bit of modding. An ender 5 + or Pro or or whatever might be better suited for you, idk. Of course you'll also want to move the PSU, probably the display too. May well be less hassle to build a frame from scratch.
Also you should plan to experiment with electrochemical additive manufacturing.

>>2756649
I was going to use something like this, but this model doesn't have the slider in it for glasses. Im making an insert for the headset that I want to be as close as possible to bone stock fitment.

>>2756645
Can this be done with phone level photogrammetry or is this something thats probably better off being subbed out to someone whos good with scanning and CAD? Rather not waste 20+ hours trying to clean up a phone scan if theres someone with a high quality scanner that can scan and clean the mesh in two.

>>2756633
>also
>>How remoob wir it hab gloo?
>oh wow, just wow.
>Catastrophic competency crisis; here we come.

I could
1) attempt to break the glue using a method of my own (would have tried to heat it to loosen it up)
Or
2) just quickly check ok 4ch for other suggestions

You’re retarded if you think asking advice is retarded

>>2756649
https://grabcad.com/library/meta-quest-3-3d-scan-left-controller-headset-head-strap-mounts-1

I think you were on to something. Im sure theres already workable files out there so I don't have to reinvent the wheel. Can just rip whats already out there.

>>2756637
>>2756639
I'm caucasian as fuck.
Just pointing out that you sound like down-syndrome parrots.
>>2756645
Lol, all my cool shit came from china.

I was a kid when people used to parrot the same shit about japanese goods. They were still doing it, and looking like mind-manipulated retards, long after japanese electronics became the standard.

>>2756655
lol, yeah but some advice-asks are transparently much dumber than others.
It's hot glue, if you had bothered to try sinking a thumbnail into it youd have your solution.

>>2756212
>>2756217
I've added some reasonably convincing Z wobble and adjusted the layer shift height.
Underextrusion would have to be done in the gcode itself. I know it can be done but I don't know enough about gcode to do it. In superslicer/prusa slicer you can add a modifier cube to cover the top of the model then -> Add settings -> Filament -> Extrusion Multiplier and bring that number down to 0.6. That will give underextrusion but I've not tested how it looks.
Updates are on the same link:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6475434

>>2756651
>V-rollers are actually probably better than linear rails or guide rods for anything with chemicals involved.
I mean we're talking distilled/deionized water here, not too fancy chemicals. That said, yeah, i'm absolutely sticking to PC-rollers.
>My only worry would be that the greater mass on the build plate might sag due to its cantilevered design
That'll be changed into a 4point system.
>and you've still got the Z screw and guide rods to get gunky
Besides not seeing too much of a problem here, theyll be covered eventually. The greater goal would be to eventually get a system that completely removes electrode from the dielectric before finishing.
>An ender 5+
Too big, don't wanna deal with the extra tolerances
>or Pro
Looked into it, but seemed largely less mod friendly.
>or or whatever might be better suited for you, idk.
Yeah, that's what i'm looking for. Second best is a tronxy and suddenly the whole chart drops to nothing. I thought we were swamped by these things at some point? Luckily I already found a local offer of an E5 for 80€ with BTT board+2208 included, which should be plenty to get started.
>May well be less hassle to build a frame from scratch.
Devil lies in the details, buying frame pieces, roller brackets, screws and wheels all on their own racks up the price quickly. Now if i had an EDM...
Jokes aside, an existing frame is also a pretty reasonable solution to not giving in to the inner autism of overengineering the whole thing.
>Also you should plan to experiment with electrochemical additive manufacturing.
Funky, but i do intend to build a machine for actual use, not a research project. Maybe somewhere in the future.

50 hours into a print and the dupports fall off because they weren't even attached to the wall of the model, ngmi

>>2756750
Glued that thing righy back on but the last time i had this issue thr filament refused to stick to the reglued part si I'm expecting the same.

oi plastic fags
my printer is not behaving lately
i have a heavily modded ender 3 with a sprite extruder

i have issues with the exterior walls not being smooth (a cylinder) and some kind of weird issue with layers (see picrel)

the print broke, suggesting bad layer adhesion, but at the break point, the lower layer is looking great, but to upper layer looks like shit

it seems to correlate with the feature inside the cylinder

any ideas ? ive ran some calibration tests, every one is coming out clean, and most of my prints looks alright
im a bit at a loss here, any idea would be appreciated

>>2756645
>When was the last time you held something well made and thought to yourself "Of course it is, it was made in China!"?
Pretty much any thing made by Apple. DJI's drones. Most mirrorless cameras. The vast majority of consumer electronics. etc.
You can get premium shit from China and shit shit from China, it just depends on how much you pay to have it manufactured. Buy cheap, get cheap.

See: the exact same rhetoric aimed at postwar Japan rather than at China. 'Cheap japcrap' was the classic pejorative.

>P1S managed to launch its shit into the middle of the bed standing on end

I'm not even mad, shame the toolhead knocked it over before I could screenshot it

>>2756778
Check the slicer see if there is a weird gap or something

>>2756791
nope, no gaps, nothing weird
also, there is the same kind of artifacts on the cone on the left piece

>>2756568
>its just scambu pla at stock temps (220/55
What's the chamber temps?
I know the X1C can overheat PLA and jam up even with just 35C bed temps.

Had my printer on a concrete slab on foam for a while, worked pretty well. Tried out some sorbothane domes, this shit is magic. The printer itself is only a little bit quieter, but it no longer rattles the entire set of cheap ikea shelves during rapids. Whole printer jiggling away on its base, shelves stay rock solid, absolutely wild.

>>2756860
can we see the setup? are the domes on the slab or the ikea table

>>2756705
>roller brackets
I think you could print all that stuff in PETG or ABS and have it work fine. Assuming you already have a 3D printer. But yeah an 80 peso e5 is a no brainer.

Maybe it’s my filament but my Benchy’s haven’t been coming out nice. These were printed with PLA+ at 220 and 215.

>>2756920
print it with a brim, cancel the print after the brim is complete and the boat gets started.... caliper-measure the height of the brim at 4 opposite places. Is it your chosen layer height?
(your 1st layer is clearly too high)

The rest of it looks like wobble. There can be multiple sources.

220 may be too hot. See if you can print at 190C. If so then make the bed 70 on first, and 60 on successive layers, keep 190 for the pla, it should look smoother, shinier, and slightly darker when printing at lower temperature.

Put your printer on the floor temporarily, you probably have some shitty desk/shelf thats vibrating/wobbling as the printer moves. If not then all your wobble is either steppers overheating and skipping, leadscrews, or your printer structurally wiggling.

>>2756920
it also looks like a little bit of under extruding, or poor pressure advancing based on the warped chimney and the wall gaps.

also, what printer, really help with diagnosing issues like this if we know the printer is Chinkshit or Chinkino

>>2756877
Flat side on the shelf, dome facing up. Used 4x 30mm diameter (15mm height) hemispheres to match the weight rating (~13kg printer + ~12kg slab).

No photo, printer is printing, but all you can see from outside is a shadow under a piece of concrete.

>>2756920
Massive underextrusion on the first layer. Start by fixing that.

>>2756920
>190C
eg: this is two components that fit together, printed separately at different temperatures. Both show the first layer surface thats in contact with the bed when printing. You can see the difference in surface quality due to temperature: left is too hot, right is cooler, and just right (190 in this case). Note the lines arent parallel, so disregard/reconcile that minor visual difference.
Note that even the nicer right sample has little specks of slightly-whiter in its extrusion; that is almost certainly due to water absorption, or 'impurities' of some kind (maybe just cheaper base material) in the PLA, when it hits the hotend it expands - often you can actually hear it - at 190 its still fairly tame but as i get up past 210 it becomes more vigorous in its expansion, and at a microscopic scale probably looks almost spongey due to the holes in it.
Even when fresh from the bag; this filament must be printed ~190-200ish, so evidently it has an innate water/impurity content. Almost certainly becasue it was hot/wet in China when this filament was packaged in 2018. The bag I just opened was still airtight, and yet I still cant print the PLA too hot.

Is Ultimaker still a good machine?

>>2756920
I think your head over bed height might be set wrong. The layer height looks fine beyond the first couple of layers.
Try the old paper trick and see if your head is just too high.

finally bought some petg after only using pla for 2 years, can you just straight up not print this stuff fast or what? its not printing anywhere near as good as PLA

>>2756971
I think it is a bit less fluid when hot, try cranking your temp up by 5 or 10 degrees. You might also want a different amount of retraction.

>>2756971
I have zero issues printing clear PETG on my X1C using default settings. Used a lot of it at the "normal" speeds of the printer. You're going to have to tell us more.

>>2755264
Ive been 3d printing for a couple of years now and have printed 1000s of benchys.. honestly lost count but have used bout 35kg of filament. Am I able to print other things yet? My printer came with the benchy SD card, I have searched online but who makes different SD card models?

>>2757076
I'm sure if you message some youtubers they might have some vase mode filled sd cards they could sell you.

>>2756804
not sure p1 doesn't have a chamber sensor. I was thinking possibly heat creep, however anecdotally I've never printed pla (or anything) with the door open and I've never had a clog literally ever until now.

>>2757097
Water cooled heat breaks are required for printing PLA in an enclosure. My ratrig will get up to 56C when enclosed printing PLA and will always clog the heat break with plastic.
You don't need or want an enclosure for PLA anyway so why shitbu labs didn't put a ventilation fan in the enclosure is a wonder.

>>2756920
Your filament extrusion multiplier is too large. Dial it down by 5-10%. That's why your z wobble lines look larger than they should and the top surface of the deck looks rough.
Your bed Z offset is too high, that's why only the first layer looks bad but the rest are fine.
Reduce the temperature of the PLA+ by 5-10C and it should improve the abysmal overhangs you've got.
Bump the print speed up a little as well, maybe 50%. It won't make any difference to the quality but will save your time.

>>2756932
Look at the Z wobble, it's obviously chinkshit

>>2756522
No one knows the long term effects and I wouldn't want to sleep in the same room as one, but a filtered enclosure should negate the issue. The bigger problem is it will keep you up at night.

>>2757098
That's just your ratrig being a piece of shit.
X1C, doors closed, chamber vent fan off, cold plate (35°C), have printed PLA for tens of hours straight with no issue.

Are 3d scanners there yet? Haven’t thought about them for a few years. I don’t mind drawing at all, but there are instances where a scanner would same me a decent bit of time. If I have to touch up the scan in cad anyway its not worth it to me since the objects I work with are not very complex.

I got one of the pop up tents for my ender three, and while the ender is a "temporary" solution for my 3d printing wants until I can get somewhere with more space, I'd rather not overheat it. The plan is to keep it even once I get more space as having more printers is always a good idea.
But is overheating in an enclosure even an issue, or is it people worrying about a non issue?

>>2757177
>But is overheating in an enclosure even an issue, or is it people worrying about a non issue?
I cook mine almost daily in an insulated enclosure that reaches 65C. Those crappy tents won't hold much more than 40C so you'll be fine.
Just move the power supply outside the enclosure and you're good.

>>2757177
Ran my CR-6 in an enclosure (corrugated signboard rather than tent) for years, no issues, even without trying to move the electronics outside.

how do you guys avoid the whole cancer thing from resin fumes? separate room/garage with ventilation and air purifier or just straight up snorting it in like real men?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjhmXzvbyfA

Got an ender 3 original that was thrown at me for free and I've been steadily upgrading to make it less shit, so far I've done the silent mainboard upgrade, added cr-touch for auto-leveling, replaced the old hotend with a new one because the nozzle was crossthreaded to fuck, replaced the old printed PLA bed risers the previous owner was using with silicone+adjustment wheels so I could actually pre-level the fucker, and threw it into an enclosure to help with temp stability.

Recently had a few issues with the bowden tube getting clogged at the hotend to the point extrusion was completely impossible, managed to clear the clog once but then yesterday it got so bad I had to disassemble everything and trim the tube to get rid of the plug then reassemble with barely enough slack on the tube to still be functional. Thinking about going ahead and replacing the extruder assembly with a direct drive so I don't have to deal with this shit anymore (hopefully), anyone have experience with the OEM direct drive kit to say whether it's any good? I figure a nice bonus to grabbing it would be new fans since the original ones have been getting pretty loud and sound like they might be on their last legs. This is the one I'm looking at, price seems decent enough
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Upgraded-Extruder-Flexible-Filament/dp/B08J7N2LNL

>>2757242
Don't have a resin printer but if I did I'd just set it up in the garage.

So that was the cause of my voltage drop
Guess tonight's activity is building a mosfet module

>>2757341
That's not supposed to happen.

>>2757159
3D scanning is best for complex and organic geometries. If you are doing just simple shapes it not worth it. Photogrammetry is free if you want to test it out and Einstar is propably the cheapest barely usable scanner on the market these days.

>>2757345
Yeah, no shit. Even used ferrules and everything.
If I had to guess the big temperature delta of printing in an enclosure caused the screw to work itself loose over time.
Anyways, the terminal's footprint has some additional unused pads so I should be able to remove the terminal and solder the wires directly to the board.
That + offloading the bed to another board should mean this won't happen again.

>>2757319
Trust me, there is no nice way to upgrade the ender 3. Your best bet is to disassemble the whole thing and use only the bed & frame for your new printer.
Buy an LGX lite extruder, phaetus rapido hotend then print the EVA3 toolhead for the ender 3.
Then strip out the main board and replace it with a BTT octopus and a raspberry pi with klipper and mainsail.
All in you'll be using only the bed, frame & motors of the original printer but you'll have something very usable.
There are lots of other mods like the belted Z and linear rail upgrade.
https://kevinakasam.com/

>>2757341
it's not quite burnt enough to add to the image collection. Could you put it back in and run it for a few weeks? Thanks

>>2757376
>Trust me, there is no nice way to upgrade the ender 3
Well I mean, I already have and it works much better than it did when I got it. I know the thing will never be anything amazing, but it works well enough for what I do with it and I don't really see the point in completely rebuilding the thing as something completely different when all I was asking about was a $30 extruder upgrade.

>>2757377
No seriously how did these people do this.

>>2757384
It starts with shit like this >>2757341
Despite the very lax regulations with low voltage DC, it actually super important that interconnects be high quality and many printers skimp on things like terminal blocks, crimping and connectors.

>>2757384
the sad answer is, mostly they just used the printer out of the box.
a lot of these are caused by poorly crimped and terminated wires, or bad boards, or missing thermal runaway protection.
its the reason EVERYONE should double check their wires and electronic components regularly, i recently had an odd spike in hotend temp every time the bed was at either full length, because the bed heater wires were bending the hot end wire causing it to slowly slide out of the ferrule, i replaced the bed wires with longer ones (pain in the ass but worth doing, any wires that are pulling that much in normal use is a bad design) and re-terminated the hotend wires, and ive got a timer to remind me to double check them in a few weeks to make sure nothing else is looking sketchy after these changes.

>>2757390
The problem are the currents involved. This shit can draw 12-13 amps easily, and for extended periods of time.
Not only do I doubt these screw terminals to be rated for that much but it's very easy to make a bad connection or just have it come loose during transport, or thermal cycling like in my case.
Now, you would never guess what I found under the screw terminal.
Yep, that's the footprint for a high current DC jack.
Fucking chinks cheaped out massively.

That being said I too was a fool for believing that installing ferrules = no more bad connections. Risk of house fire is more or less the same, ferrules or not.
A better advice would be to check the connections periodically.

>>2757319
Alternatively, do I just throw a few more bucks at it and grab one of these?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806364952093.html

If I'm looking at this right it seems like the sprite completely eliminates the ptfe tube from the extrusion path and would allow for higher temp materials, seems worth the extra $7 if there's not some glaring reason to avoid it

>>2757403
It looks like a simple path to direct extrusion, which is a good thing. Half price too; almost what the individual components could be bought for.
I still use a bowden setup, but it pisses me off almost daily.. ive been forming a collection of direct hotends for a while now, 2 so far, probably about to buy the sprite to, all of which require some printing of brackets to fit my current system... thats really the only reason i havent done it already: i need to be sure I can just slot it in and not have to revert when i realise i forgot to print something.

The sprite design seems sound, the others currently around that are similar all have a more elaborate aluminium frame, and less points to adapt a mount to generic printers, so the sprite may well be the best one. Im sure they all have potentially similar similar thermal regulation issues, but chances are that will be moot to us.

>>2757403
Gay
Don't buy creality "upgrade parts", they are only marginally better than the regular stuff.
Get one of these
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003400969228.html
Or get a titan aero, that also works. Anything part of the V6 ecosystem is very good and highly recommended.

>>2757341
Looks like someone didn’t use a torque wrench and loctite when tightening his screw terminals.

>>2757402
What sort of DC jack is that? I see normal 5.5x2.1mm plugs on power supplies as high as 10A (and I put my own one together than can handle 30A) but the sockets always seem to be rated at only a couple of amps.

They show a jhead here, but how do any of this type of extruder attach to that system?

A1 or A1 Mini?

>>2757568
The Bambu A1 has been recalled for potential fire hazard due to a pinched bed heater harness, so there's that...

>>2757516
>didn’t use a torque wrench
Yeah, I didn't. I just went full bear mode on them.
>loctite
Can't really see any way to get it on the threads.
>What sort of DC jack is that?
Probably some laptop power jack. High end gayman laptops often charge with high currents and they have to handle that.

>>2757637
It has been recalled for a pinchable harness. It doesn't get pinched and fucked up unless you do what is explicitly warned against in the guide.
But at the same time, even the bugs should know better than to expect people to be able to read or comprehend and have designed a retarded at least resistant system.

>>2757649
>Can't really see any way to get it on the threads.
Can you take the screws out? Some screw terminals have the screws be captive, but if you can see some of the threads you can probably get a dab in there on a toothpick. Be better to have castellations so you can put some of that aviation-grade locking wire through it. Or you know, just use a damn 2-pin molex connector.

>>2756971
Been printing almost exclusivley with PETG for two years now. Skill issue on your part. Calibrate your extruder for it. The gears will bite into PETG diffrently than PLA, effectivley this means a diffrent drive gear diameter. You'll have to account for that. You should not overdo first layer squish as it will curl up behind the nozzle. A thick first layer is a good first layer for adhesion. Voarse textured PEI is a great printing surface for PETG. PETG will warp if you're using too much cooling. Leave part cooling off for the first 4-8 layers. However, for short <40 second layer times you will need to turn part cooling on. PETG is also notorious for stringing and will need calibrated retraction settings, Z-hop can also help. PETG does better when speeds are slowed down. I've printed sucessfully at 70-80mm/s on an Ender 5 Plus, just slow down for detailed parts. The main issue is my printer here and not the filament. A better printer could probably go faster. May need to turn up nozzle heat when printing fast. Normally i print between 230-240°C, 230°C has a less glossy and in my opinion better looking finish. Good luck anon.

>>2757568
I'm going to grab the full size A1 as I need at least 2203mm volume for a print I wanna do. Just waiting for them to fix their fuck up...

>>2756750
>>2756759
Anyone know what this might be? Still having issues after changing the support settings and there's no info about it online, just shows me slresin stuff instead.

Elegoo neptune max using prusa slicer. With the standard settings it comes with.

>>2755264
Any advice before I pull the trigger on one of the egoo mars products. I see the new "9k" max version and several others. Would love someone knowledgeable to just tell me what to buy. Main prints are keycaps, minis and car model parts. also. I don't have a lot of space, can I avoid the cleaning station and curing thing?

>>2757709
You're probably better off asking in /tg/ for resin printers

>>2757711
Ty, just did that.

>>2757693

>Testing out design from someone else
>walls so thin it breaks just from sneezing on it
Fuck people who design shit with too thin walls.

newnigger here, but how often do people make their own printers? I understand that some components can be hard to find and expensive (especially for resin printing), but surely a lot of money can be saved by hooking up the printer to the pc and then installing certain programs on the pc instead of the printer having its own hardware and software? the only diy resin one I found has its components priced as if I bought a mars or phrozen, so what gives?

>>2757770

>>2757770
Apparently having no text in a post is considered a dup reply despite having a dif image hash. I didn't know this.

>>2757727
I think sometimes they do it on purpose, like 'lol figure it out yourself'.

>>2757770
your entire post is stupid.
No running stepper drivers direct on Windows or even Linux would be stupid, slow, inconsistent and worthless. Running your hotend or bed control loop on windows or linux would be stupid, slow, inconsistent and probably dangerous.
Go on wikipedia and learn what a "real time operating system" is then come back here and tell me why it's different to a regular operating system. Then you can tell me in your own words why you are stupid.
As for your first question, people never make their own printers other than in the early days before cheap printers existed. Your second question is stupid. You can answer it yourself by showing me the thermistor port & stepper driver port on your laptop.
If your question is about DIY printers, look at ratrig or voron.

>>2757774
he doesn't even show if it works, but I'm familiar with the concept of diy printers and thus the question
>>2757776
this one is impressive. is it known how much would it aprox cost to commission someone/service to print them and get the rest on my own?
>>2757781
no need to be a rude, el negro, but thanks for the various info that I'll be jewgling now to learn stuff now

>>2757788
>Commission someone to 3d print the parts
You'll probably pay more than an actual printer.

>>2757788
>"he doesn't even show if it works"
Anon, it's made entirely out of 3d printed parts and metal tubes, and was printed at the show.
It's cleverly just an "art piece".

so the bambu corexy's are basically just chinesium proprietary clones of voron, why are they hailed as the apple of 3d printers? Youtubers huffing the plastic fumes a little too hard?

>>2757915
Youtubers being paid off by the chinese a little too hard.

>>2757915
Chinesium Voron clones with Prusa-tier automatic calibration, making them dead easy for noobs to use out-of-the-box at Voron print speeds. They're extremely good printers for the money. Proprietary garbage to an enthusiast, but an enticing option for nubs who aren't interested in 3D printing as a hobby and just want to hit "Print".

>>2757915
Cheaper than a voron for the same speed and quality of output, calibrates itself rather than requiring you to fuck about with it. Plus it changes filaments for you unattended rather than having to do it yourself like some sort of caveman.

Plus you don't need to deal with the fucking voron cultists, which is reason enough alone. Worse than vegans.

lol
prusaslicer has the bed mesh model set to its midpoint rather than 0,0
what a bunch of tards, this makes it a fucking pain in the ass to align if you need to alter the size of the nozzle-reachable print area due to different head geometry etc.

>see fancy wrapping paper tube thingy
>check thingi and cults
>pick one that looks decent, two sizes
>print
>drop in my #11 blade
>it falls out
FUCK I HATE HAVING TO REMAKE EVERYTHIGN CORRECTLY FUCK THESE FAGGOT LOSER FUCKS

>>2757915
I don't need the multicolor shit and it looks weird. The k1 is good nuf. Althought I don't like that they came out with the k1c because it implies that the k1 can't print carbon fiber right. But I'm assuming it can still.

>>2758064
isnt cf printing just a nozzle thing tho? just change it to a abrasive resistant one and you should be good

>>2758067
I'm currently wrangling with trying to get cf nylon to print.
I've got an enclosure, resistant nozzle, glass bed, etc... And yet it still curls and pops off.
Think I might need to get a heater or something to warm the enclosure more.

>>2758072
I will further clarify that I'm messing with an ender three, and am this retard >>2757177.
I've upgraded to the sprite head, I've got the glass bed, got the tent, and prints just won't work.
But the first test print I did with this nylon was almost perfect (the file auto set the head temps and bed to 220/60, and I didn't catch it for a couple of layers) and the only upgrade that time was the head swap. But then once I tried doing more test prints nothing would stick, not even the same test print that was pretty much perfect the first time.
And now I'm chasing the "printing nylon" rabbit with a printer that's just intended to be a part of a "fleet".

>>2757402
ferrules are worse imo because instead of flattening the bare wire to spread it and make more contact area with the clamp faces, it forces it to a very tiny section especially if you can't really crush the ferrule in the terminal it's literally microns of contact.

>>2757376
Don't do any of this, klipper and pi are onions and belted Z is unnecessary. You just need two leadscrews like every other sane printer that doesn't have a sagging X axis. But this anon is correct in saying upgrading an ended 3 is a waste of time. Just buy a prusa clone on AliExpress and be done with it
>>2757985
Open an issue

>>2758026
i found that this was usually due to the inconsistency in line widths. Either people assumed you knew what size nozzle they were using, or had really shit accuracy on their widths.
Looking into this i found that the default 0.45mm width for a 0.4 nozzle was a pain in the ass to model for accurately. Partly due to the calculations required. So I switched to specifying 0.4 width for all 0.4 nozzle lines, in all my profiles. It's the one thing i religiously specify all the time.
Now if I have a 10mm diameter cylindrical rod IRL that is to fit into a hole in a printed object, I make the hole 10.4mm in diameter.
Basically adding 0.2 on each side of any object.
10x10mm square object, 10.4x10.4mm boolean cuts a 10.4x10.4mm hole.
This includes a tiny bit of slop to account for the roughness of layering, but still works when the hole exists in any combination of X,Y,Z planes. Sometimes horizontal planes can collapse a bit on the last bridging layer they put on top of the hole, but shoving a same-sized drill or file into the hole makes it trivial to clear them.
This applies to making printed parts fit into printed parts too, except in addition to making the hole bigger you MAY need to also make the inserted part 0.4mm smaller, but if your line width is accurate in the first place, and your layers are all smoothly parallel with no globbing it should work fine by simply adding 0.4 to the hole alone.
Do some test fit prints to see. It's a very close match for me, and if i need a tighter fit its easy to reduce the hole to 0.3 or 0.2... but thats usually pretty damn tight, and i cant recall when i last need to do that.

Picrel the same principle applied to an M3 bolt, the nut is square because hex nuts suck to embed, and it's slot is extra long because in that axis it's advantageous to have a 'big' gap.

>>2758085
>Basically adding 0.2 on each side of any object.
I do that for all my designs too. Sometimes I can get away with 0.1, other times 0.2 isn't enough. I'd have thought that a properly dialled in printer would be able to avoid having to do this.

>>2758086
external perimeters are usually accurate, but iirc theres a historical reason relating to curves and their inner boundary being 'shrunk' due to nozzle hydraulics and nobody wanting to fix it now because reasons and everyone already works around it....or something.

but yeah: printing other peoples designs is a nightmare if you need to physically interface them with anything, even that designs other components. I always just assume its because people are filthy savages who retool everything far too much.

>>2758087
Is there an easy way to tell CAD software to just shrink everything by X dimension? Different to a scaling, which would shrink internal dimensions instead of growing them. In OpenSCAD I've just written down a tolerance factor and added it everywhere that matters, but in future I'll probably try to learn Ondsel or BRL-CAD, maybe SolveSpace.

>>2758091
Probably, but I use blender, which isnt parametric to the degree you are talking, so i just made a library of parts I regularly need it (hole sizing) for and use that, along with remembering some basic principles (+0.4) when interfacing things.

>>2758080
Keep your retard imagination to yourself, dumbass. Others will not enjoy damaged and cut off wirestrands as much as you.

>>2758077
I guess I'll ask here while I'm at it, anyone tried printing nylon and have it curl up off the bed every time, and then fixed it?
I've been messing with head height, temps (255-260 for the head as I haven't looked up how to set it to like 270-275 yet, and 55-100 for the bed), and best lick I've had thus far is setting the head as high as it can go at 260, and then running the bed between 60-70.
I have mrisoc installed, and an all metal direct drive sprite, just need to bother figuring out how to increase the head temp limit.
I've also wondered if it's not just the parts being too small to print at 100% infil/all walls. Just haven't tried printing these at 60% or whatever yet.
I've also included a shit of a bunch of the failed prints that kind of show how they keep warping. They're all bottom up apart from the middle one.

>>2758125
How hot is your enclosure getting before you start a print?

>>2758125
Idk, try following Slant 3D's guidelines for good bed adhesion:
>no holes in first layer, you can cut/drill them out later if it's just one layer thick
>make first layer wide and without sharp corners
>ideally make first layer just one large circle

Also maybe tone down your part cooling fan for after the first layers, assuming you're using it at all

>>2758132
As hot as I can get it. I let it sit at preheat temps for at least ten or fifteen minutes between attempts.
Been thinking about getting some kind of heater specifically for trying to ensure that it gets hot.
>>2758134
I'm running with no fan for nylon.
Might try messing with rafts or something just to test this idea.
Though, from my experience, I think the bigger issue is the print cooling too quickly for the amount of material and not so much poor adhesion.
Might also try slicing thinner than .2mm layers and seeing if they cool enough between lawyers to not build up tension.

>>2758139
When I print nylon I have to slow my feedrate down and pause between layers. Model geometry is also important, large flat areas without support can easily curl.

>>2757788
>I'm familiar with the concept of diy printers
You are not.
>no need to be a rude
Ask stupid questions, get stupid answers.

>>2758085
But then 0.4 works just fine with my 0.6 nozzle. Plastic gods can't ever be pleased.

>>2758080
>if you can't really crush the ferrule
So you're complaining about doing it wrong in the first place?

>>2758153
Maybe anon has terminal illnes. It's not very nice to poke fun at, imo.

Any anons here with bambu - have you printed out the LED riser yet to improve the dog shit lighting? How do you plug in your LED stripe if you have?

>>2758064
I don't do a lot of multicolour printing but having 4 rolls ready to go in a drybox where I don't need to fuck about loading and unloading is so handy and was worth the extra cash desu
>>2758192
Not yet but eventually, I was just going to power it via a USB on a socket
Had this kg of PETG to do it for months now

>>2758195
>USB on a socket
So you're just externally powering it, gotcha. I would like to figure out a solution to having it enabled when the machine is either on or plugged in without me having to manually do so every time and I'm still brainstorming.

>>2758197
The printer is plugged in next to it so I'd just put both on at the same time. You could always get an extension lead with a USB slot on so you only have to flip the one switch

There is a 5V USB-A inside the printer you could use

>>2758139
I have a drywall/sound foam/mylar emergency blanket enclosure for my e5s1. The bed takes 10 min to reach 110C. At the max bed temperature 110C, the time constant is around 30 min. The fan wasn't running, so the two DS18B20 near the lid (3,4) are much hotter than the other two below the build plate. I can do small (3" OD) nylon spur gears but warping is too much for helical gears. Printing on FR4 helps. Brims are better than rafts.
I tried a "400" W PTC bga plate. After I insulated the lid, I no longer need it to get 40C. Radiant heat and/or AMG8833 would be interesting but probably unnecessary.
My wrong intuition is that thicker faster layers without a pause would have less warping. Each line wants to shorten by 0.3% if the chamber is 40C below Tg. If the first layer is half done shrinking, the first half of the second layer's shrinking matches the shrinking of the first layer. So if the first layer is already cooled, the residual stress caused by the second layer will be higher. Higher residual stress apparently doesn't lead to higher strain.
I will also experiment with pauses and layer height.

>>2758125
might not be relevant but I used to print nylon on my mini delta, no-enclosure, bed could barely reach 50C. the trick? I pointed one of those little space heaters at it from about 14" away.

nylon shrinks noticeably when it cools, which is part of why it's so stronk, the trick being to have it cool evenly AFTER the print is done.

>>2758192
Just put an LED panel on top. AMS is already better to the side (with the buffer repositioned) to shorten the PTFE tube between them and speed up load/unload times.

>>2758192
the lighting is fine there is no problem to be solved here

>trying to figure out snapmaker's pwm frequency
>turn on oscilloscope
>clip ground probe to pin on connector
>wire glows, connector smokes
>now the negative pin is constantly at 0V and the positive constantly at 24V, even though it should be at 10% PWM
fug, gotta open it up and probably replace the mosfet

>>2758458
>replace fet
>fet (and subsequently motor) turns on with 100% duty cycle regardless of what i set it to in the g-code
>has 0% duty cycle when i stop it
>third wire that went to motor does literally nothing
>none of the 8 pins going into the module have pwm on them
i don't get it, maybe there's some funny shit in the g-code but i don't think there is.
unless maybe it's only ever designed to run at 100%, in which case putting a 12v motor on this 24V system was a pretty bad idea

> Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Where can i make this free to me too?

Was thinking of getting the Sovol filament dryer, but i know building one can probably be cheaper/better than buying a dryer. Can anyone recommend me decent builds for them?

>>2758530
>>>/t/

>>2758527
>check g-code from manufacturer's software
>see M3 P100
>i've been using M3 S__ instead of P__
>can't find any literature on P__, just a couple of posts on the snapmaker forum
>https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/fixed-spindle-speed/2146/3
>I just received my SnapMaker and have tested setting the spindle speed with the M3 S[speed] command and indeed, the speed does not change no matter what values I enter for speed
>but laser g-code does have variable duty-cycle
>so i need to fool my snapmaker into thinking it has a laser connected
That means changing the file extension from .cnc to .nc and replacing a 100Ω resistor with a 130Ω. More importantly, it means adding a MOSFET, which may need a driver circuit too if the drive voltage and current is too low, and cramming that inside the driver housing. But somehow the chip used on the laser driver (XL3005E1) doesn't have a PWM input, but rather it does this weird circuit with a diode? If the PWM frequency is too low for the 12V motor to not pull stupid amps, I'll have to add an LC filter and a freewheel diode, turning the PWM circuit into a buck converter. Sounds kinda fun I guess. Makes me wonder why the MOSFET inside the thing can't be used for PWM though. Or why I can't change the PWM frequency to be higher. Really wish I could flash a custom version of marlin right about now.

>>2758534
Whatever active dryer you can cook up will probably be shit, if not an outright liability and risk of house fire.

I would recommend a passive dryer.
Go to the store, grab the biggest plastic box you can find. Make sure it has a lid, bonus points if it has a gasket.
Buy some bulk silica gel and dump it in the box, then store all your opened spools in there.
Yes, it will take a while to dry out all your spools, especially if they're soaked. But once they are dry you can pretty much use them straight away.

>>2758548
Not that anon, but I've heard desiccant-based filament drying isn't that effective on its own. There was an anon here a year or two ago doing experiments with plastic containers and desiccant, though I think he was using calcium chloride instead of silica gel. I'd likely make an active dryer by modifying a food dehydrator, or by adding peltier modules or silicone heaters to a steel box. With peltiers I could experiment with using the cold side as a dehumidifier for the internal air, or even to put the peltier module elsewhere and use it for drying out a loop of desiccant solution. All you need to make a diy filament drier safe is to add an appropriate thermal fuse in series with the element, in addition to some form of thermal regulation like a thermostatic switch or STC-1000. Probably a smoke alarm too. A fire extinguisher bomb would be a good idea if you're paranoid.

>>2758548
>>2758554
It's easy to use your printer to dry filament or build a custom heated drying box with 3d printer parts. Sometimes i dry filament on my print bed. Just set the temp and put the filament there with a cardboard box for insulation.

>>2758554
Dessicant works fine for keeping moisture away from already dry filament but yeah it's not really going to pull much moisture out of filament that's already absorbed it.

Just get a cheap food dehydrator from your local thrift shop, people buy those things, never use them, then donate them all the time.

>>2758538
Will look

>>2755376
obviously by filament used + electricity + some extra for the work and time you spent as well as the wear you introduced on your printer

It's current year. Why do we still have no all-in-one printer like x1c, k1s, m5p that take regular M6 nozzles or at least some standardized form factor? It's all shit since E3D dropped the ball.

>>2758649
>>Look at me, I'm the standard now!

E3D, probably

>trying run a new program on 3d printer
>nothing coming out
>run an old program I know works right
>it makes the part as expected
>go back to new program and still nothing
>check the settings
>realize I have the extrusion set to cut instead of create new body
Boy, do I feel retarded

guys i'm a genius
fuck brims
fuck all bed adhesion products
the best way to ensure secure prints for anythng except petg is 1 layer bottle plastic raft with 0 height offset
super secure
super easy to remove either side
clean surface finish
fuckin' free
lets you recycle shitty half-liter bottles in a meaningful way

>>2758686
What the fuck why are there still people without PEI powder-coated steel beds?
$12, lasts for ages, Just Werks™

>>2758687
It doesn't work for nylon

>>2758688
That's what G10 is for.

>>2758687
because all i print are petg and bottle plastic, and my one experience with a pei bed and petg ended up with me getting a bed with a print permanently embedded in it
but now i don't have to buy a new one, if i need other filaments i can make disposable beds out of literal trash and get perfect first layer every time because it's actually the second layer

>>2758691
>because all i print are petg and bottle plastic

A bit of brainstorming here and wanted to get anon's opinions. I have two complete sets of passive speakers in parts left over from upgrading. Do you anons think it would be viable to recreate the speaker completely, 3D print in pieces, and then keep sections hollow which would then be filled in with the mix of plaster of paris like in this video? Otherwise I would just stop being lazy and DIY a case with plywood.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEspOD1NHr0

Holy shit, I've been on the 4chins for so long I never thought to come here for 3d printing help...

I've got an MMU, Mosaic Palette 3 Pro, and a Klipper based Ender 3. There was TTY support in klipper as of late, and I was wondering if anyone got Connected Mode working besides OP in https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/pull/6482/commits/326f64530863e903af799d1141bcafe504475b58

>>2758692
give me an argument for why i should settle for lesser filaments that are smelly, finnicky, expensive, dimensionally unstable, warp-prone, brittle and/or succeptible to sun and chemicals, over the perfection that is petg. the only other filament that makes sense is nylon, it's baisically super-petg in terms of capability. i'm saving up to make my personal printer capable of printing this god-emperor of materials, and by then every other kind of plastic will be redundant- nylon for cool shit, petg for cheap just-works shit, bottle plastic for literally free small trinkets to give away because people still ask me to print them pet dragons out of mtn dew.

>>2758687
>dealing with gay textures on all bottom surfaces
No, thank you. I don't like sanding.
I like smooth bottom surfaces produced by smooth PEI.

>>2758698
i guess tpu is cool too, but i haven't had a spool of it in a while. i should probably get some, it's handy sometimes.

>>2758698
I for one don't like dealing with the weird crystallization patterns of PETG.
It's cool that you can print with minimal warping and have that really shiny finish to it. Very nice for decorations and stuff. Top tier stuff if you print vases, flower pots and such.
But for mechanical use? Nope.
PETG is supposed to be quite flexible, which it is for the most part. But every now and then, the crystallization fucks up in places and if you stress it in just the right way it snaps. Just like the brittle PLA.
Because of the inconsistent nature of this behavior you can't account for it in the part design.
Yes, PLA is brittle, but I can trust it to always be brittle, in all the parts I make, in all the directions it could be loaded in. I could design PETG parts the same way I'd design for PLA, but for what purpose? The main attraction of PETG in mechanical design is the flexibility. But if it actually flexes or snaps off it's a roll of the dice. So it's more reliable to use ABS for flexing parts.

>>2758702
I think it is pretty well established what plastics are good for what purposes and the anon calling certain filaments "lesser" is functionally retarded. Need bendy shit, use TPU or ABS. Need UV resistence, ASA. Need something solid, print with some CF Nylon mix or PLA + and make the infill 100% with 500 walls.

>>2758706
I don't know about that. Leaving aside anon's retarded takes, people seem to treat PETG as "PLA but bendier". I've yet to see anyone else talk about PETG randomly snapping sometimes.

>>2758706
tpu is cool but you have to design for it because it can't into supports.
abs and asa SUCK to print.
nylon is awesome, but not exactly hobby-grade. cool if you get to work with it, but not printable on a personal hobby-grade printer. no, your $700 bambu is a bit too pricey to be hobby-grade, if you invest that much into a hobby you better make some money off it.
cf-filled petg is a good solution for solid parts. in fact, dummy thick petg that is 100% walls is plenty solid, go bite on the top part of a plastic bottle.
>>2758709
>>2758702
petg's main weakness is that it can't be printed fast, which is the big trend nowadays. print it slower and without cooling fan, uneven cooling is how you get the stressed crystallisation that leads to sudden snaps. the only time i got petg to a random brittle failure is when i was experimenting with post-processing a flat part into a curvy part, it bent over a mandril fine after gently hitting it with a heat gun but then cracked in use. i had a few more in obviously poorly designed parts, but that's not material's fault.

>>2758729
> no, your $700 bambu is a bit too pricey to be hobby-grade
You are very misinformed on what hobby grade means. Yes, bambu is absolutely hobby grade, moreso than a 100 dollar ender - specifically because of its accessibility and ease of use. Some retard and his mom can be set up and printing shit in an hour.

>>2758731
accessibility and ease of use make sense in professional settings where a consistent plug and play unit pays for itself in not needing to be tended to, time is money. at home you're doing it at your leisure, so time is just time. tinkering with the printer in your free time and leaving prints overnight is hobby-grade. bambu is overkill for hobbyists and in personal use is more of a luxury item. like a $4000 colnago compared to a $400 decathlon roadie with $200 worth of budget-conscious high-end parts to make it 98% as fast. you definitely won't win tour de france on a crocodile triban, but you probably won't on a colnago either, so cool your jets and remain a hobbyist.

>>2758687
Fucking this, I see people talking about using glue stick and hairspray and all kinds of retarded shit and I'm just over here doing nothing and printing everything with just a skirt and getting perfect adhesion and effortless part release.

>>2758699
You flip it over, anon.

>>2758698
Lets list some things made of PETG...
- drinks bottles
- food containers
- drink bottles again
- uhhh food containers again
- plastic windows for shop displays
- more drinks bottles
- 3d printer filament

Gee whizz, looks like a wonderful plastic to print engineering parts in....... it's used all the time in uhhh .... ready meal packaging and fanta bottles...

Lets look at ABS now:
- Most of the stuff on your car
- Most of the shit from china
- Nearly anything plastic and cheap
- The shitty ender 3 you're using
- Your laptop
- Basically everything

Lets look at PLA
- Food packaging
- Cutlery and bowls
- Plastic fabrics

Seems your PETG is no different to PLA in real world applications.

>>2758735
>accessibility and ease of use make sense
Yes, I agree, in the end after setting up and calibrating this always makes sense actually. In all settings, not just production.
>bambu is overkill for hobbyists and in personal use is more of a luxury item
It's not even expensive compared to enthusiast printers like the rat rigs or vorons
>at home you're doing it at your leisure
You really can't differentiate between having your 3d-printer as a hobby or 3d-printing as a hobby or using your 3d printer as a tool to further other hobbys, can you? Fucking retard. Even people who have their 3d printers as a hobby at home for leisure will say "It's so good having two 3d printers because i can fix my piece of shit 3d printer that broke with my second 3d printer." Also bambu labs is fucking hobby grade.

>>2758735
Professional settings require professional features. Of which bambu doesn't have unless you pay their ultra premiium price.

>>2758763
If you could afford an expensive PEI sheet you'd know they're textured on both sides.

>>2758767
That's much too large for my printer, anon. I feel like cutting that into 4 pieces wouldn't be worth the hassle.

>>2758771
they do little ones for guys with small peni.. i mean printers
https://ratrig.com/flexplate-pro-set-black-textured-pei-184-x-184-mm-double-sided.html

>>2758773
I want this one.

>>2758767
What if, and hear me out here, you bought one that's only textured on one side?

>>2758777
That's like buying a car with 2 wheels.
Sounds good on paper but completely worthless in reality.

>>2758777
What if you bought a textured one, and a smooth one? Then you'd have 2 plates and 4 surfaces.

>>2758779
>>2758780
I've only got the one printer, and I can only use one side of the plate at a time. How exactly does having two separate plates with 4 surfaces benefit me over having one with two sides that do both things I might want?

>>2758763
Double sided PEI is not serviceable for high temp use.
At high temps the PEI will bond to the magnetic surface like nothing else. If you go several prints without removing the build plate then you will certainly remove more than just the build plate next time you remove it.
Ask me how I know.

>>2758764
pet sucks for direct injection molding for the same reason you can't print it fast- it becomes brittle and would either fail or require annealing. industrial processes for it boil down to relatively thin-walled stuff like drink bottles and food containers. 3d printing's slow speeds let you avoid that issue, and its combination of features are good for 3d printing, it's a match made in heaven.
abs is a cheap plastic that is very well suited to injection molding, but as far as filaments go it's servicable at best, its cost is offset by need for a ventilated enclosure and it being completely ass dimensionally (injection molds for abs are specifically designed with its shrinkage in mind). at this point i'm sure that only boomers still print abs, and the only legitimate use case for abs filament is for welding existing abs parts together using a 3d pen.
pla's claim to fame in cutlery is that it's supposedly compostable so it's totally green and cool guys, corpos can continue polluting. bogus. however, pla's claim to fame in 3d printing is how easy it is to print. its mechanical properties suck, but it does have its uses, ease of printing means high consistency, and it can be used as inexpensive breakaway support material for petg and tpu. and since it's mostly used in 3d printing, going away from pla means it'll get more expensive, which will make it less appealing at its supportive duties of quick accurate mockups and throwaway supports.
>>2758766
it isn't pro, but it isn't hobbyist either. i'd call it pro-am, the weird inbetween.

>>2758788
>3d printing's slow speeds let you avoid that issue, and its combination of features are good for 3d printing, it's a match made in heaven.
>slow speeds
Holy shit anon is posting from 2014.

My dude even crappy bed slingers do 100mm/s these days.
PETG is INcompatible with modern 3D printing needs, see >>2758702 and replies for more details.
And because of this need for high print rates, ABS is making a comeback. Mains powered beds, PEI sheets and enclosures have become quite common in consumer printers, and these things solve 90% of issues with printing ABS.
There is also the argument of price here, PLA and PETG are materials that are used primarily in 3D printing, with few applications in other areas. ABS on the other hand, it makes up the vast majority of plastic stuff around you. This makes it dirt cheap and because the production process is so mature there will be little to no variance in the composition of ABS spools across colors and manufacturers.

For anyone using inventor (and maybe other 3D modeling software too) I think I have a good explanation about the underlying cause of an error I sometimes get when adding a fillet to an object:

part.ipt: Errors occurred during update
Fillet: Could not build this Fillet
The attempted operation encountered a non-manifold body due to multiple model edges at an intersection. Retry operation with different inputs.

I now think I understand both why a non-manifold body is so unacceptable to inventor that it simply wont allow you to do something that would create one, and also what exactly makes a body non-manifold. I got this from this website, but I think I've generalized it even further. www.sculpteo.com/en/3d-learning-hub/create-3d-file/fix-non-manifold-geometry

First: Why are non-manifold bodies illegal in inventor?
In short, because such bodies *cannot* physically exist in real space, and inventor is intended to model things that *do* exist in real space.

Next: Why *can't* non-manifold bodies exist in real space?
At first glance, it looks to me that if a non-manifold body *did* exist in real space, it would require some or all of it to be infinitely thin, ie have 0 thickness. Even "2D" materials like graphene have SOME thickness, even if its only the thickness of a single atom.

Finally: What makes a model non-manifold?
The website I linked above gave several different conditions that would make a body non-manifold, but I think it can be generalized into 2 rules.
1) Every vertex must touch exactly 3 edges, no more, no less.
2) Every edge must touch exactly 2 faces, no more, no less.
If either of these conditions are not met, the body becomes non-manifold. (the reason *why* this is the case is illustrated quite well on the linked website, but they didn't actually provide these conditions)

>>tldr: I think I found an explanation for a common error in inventor, am I right? (also read if you want to know too)

Is printing onto a raft a ridiculous waste of material, or is it worth it if you have problems with bed adhesion?

My conclusions here are coming from a qidi x-pro that I often have adhesion issues with (although I've never tried something like covering the print bed in painters tape or using a glue stick) VS. my Replicator z18 which by default prints onto a raft and NEVER has adhesion issues

>>2758804
Haven't used a raft in over 10 years, they're a relic with no purpose.

>>2758649
>Why do we still have no all-in-one printer like x1c, k1s, m5p that take regular M6 nozzles
Because if it used 'regular' multi-component hotends it would be shit. Fucking about with non-conical butt-joints to contain hot-fluid inthe middle of the heaterblock is a fucking moronic decision taken in the early RepRap days when nobody knew any better. It was excusable two decades ago, but not today: it'd be like building a printer today with an unheated plain glass bed and telling everyone to apply fresh blue painters tape before every print.

Nozzle should be a single piece (or at best an interference-fit assembly) all the way from filament entry to extrusion orifice.

>>2758804
I feel like you'd have to have a pretty specific kind of issue for a raft to be worthwhile, if you can't get proper bed adhesion even with a a brim for pretty much anything you might normally want to print then something about your setup is royally fucked m8

>>2758804
not for general purpose prints, only for stuff like print in place dragons with their many small and usually jagged contact points that are all critical to print's success and would require too much cleanup with a brim, and even then, just a single layer.

>>2758795
printing in general is slow compared to blowing bottles. a pet water bottle is formed within a few seconds, so is an abs lego brick. a pet brick formed in the same way an abs one is will crack, but one printed on a printer will not. printing is such a perfectly suited process for pet that, as you've noticed, modern printing is at a point where petg meets its speed limits.
a crappy bedslinger does not meet those limits by the way, as long as the part is sufficiently large petg can still go reasonably fast.
>needs
wants. an overnight part is an overnight part, no matter how you spin it.

>>2758687
I agree. For ease of use, this stuff rules. I have never used anything else, and I was constantly wondering why people complained about adhesion issues. Even a stupid noob like me has has only had like 3 things release early in a year. Just let it cool, and if it hasn't popped free yet, flex it. A person would have to be crazy to not at least own one.

>>2758699
Get a belt sander with a filtered vac you pleb. Could have it done in 10 seconds.

>>2758804
Use it on shit that will only stand on rounded, triangular, or pointy surfaces. That's about it.

>>2758691
>>2758698
Take the FR4 pill. For PETG there's nothing better.

>>2758809
Except it just worked fine for everyone. Now we're getting swamped by $40 nozzle "solutions" for switching sizes quickly, for whatever reason. Nevermind being available in anything but brass and hardened steel. If Phaetus can swing it on a late night sketch rapido, there's hardly an excuse left.

>>2758852
>>2758699
We're literally on /diy/. If this is a reoccurring issue, build a fucking tumbler.

Are there any places that make PLA for actual commercial purposes? I work at a supplier and we get a surprising amount of RFQs for printed parts that specify PLA as an acceptable material, but we can't find anywhere that sells it with certifications that contain traceability like batch/lot numbers.

>>2758908
>PLA
>batch traceability
But why?

>>2758911
Requirement for all parts for aerospace companies like Raytheon or Northrop,

>>2758908
Maybe start with local suppliers and ask?
This sounds like something you're not going to find on the open-market.

>>2758908
BASF, the largest chemical supplier in the world: https://forward-am.com/material-portfolio/ultrafuse-filaments-for-fused-filaments-fabrication-fff/
They make some of the highest performing 3D printing materials yet available, and they can actually meet your needs for traceability. Highly recommended.

Can any marlin building expert tell me how to import this into platformio?
https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/fyi-source-code-of-snapmaker-firmware/5680/21
It's the google drive link on post 25:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-D2vhe6gPKWBYWETWbc_HlWXbsufjWbT/view?usp=sharing
It's the Snapmaker Original's firmware. There's no .pio file so it won't get imported like a repo that was designed for platformio in the first place, but it's definitely a variant of marlin. I want to change the PWM frequency and build it, but I can't find out how.

>>2758649
Apparently the Peopoly Magneto X is about to do just that, but it's kind of a meme and nothing has been released yet.
https://peopoly.net/products/magneto-x

>>2758908
extrudr greentec pro has all the SDS shit you need for businesses and everything is serial numbered.
it's made in spain for some reason but the company is german
https://www.extrudr.com/en/products/catalogue/green-tec-pro-schwarz_2284/

>>2758860
>Except it just worked fine for everyone
Slowly, and with leaks being commonplace.
>Now we're getting swamped by $40 nozzle "solutions"
Only if you're a dipshit who is easily swayed by shiny things. There are plenty of other options available.
>Nevermind being available in anything but brass and hardened steel
And copper. And stainless. And various coating applied (e.g. DLC, TiN, etc). Seems less you're mad at limited selection, and more you don't know how to fuckling google. The industry isn't going to stop improving just to soothe your incompetence.

Has anyone switched form silica gel to activated alumina as a desiccant?

>>2759220
>There are plenty of other options available.
Name some.

>>2759253
$15 for a Bambu nozzle. Stick your extruder of choice on the top (even has convenient bolt holes, so no messing with collets), done. Unitary hotend with integral nozzle, heaterblock, and heatsink, dirt cheap.

Or is the single thread of an M6 nozzle sufficiently Fighting The Man for you, but two screw threads is scary scary DIY?

>>2759264
Try harder.

>>2759251
If all your adsorbent touches all the air at once, you don't get to use the maximum capacity, which happens to be highest for activated alumina. Suppose 15% RH is okay, then you can get by with 40% as much zeolite (holds 8 mol water/kg) as alumina (3 mol water/kg). Both cost about the same ($10 / 100 g). Silica gel holds even less at 15% RH (2mol/kg) but it's much cheaper ($2.5/100 g).

Waking up to finished parts sure is nice. But it's not nice that Enders are so shit they have this amount of ringing at 50mm/s. Also the fusion 360 loft tool is complete and utter fucking garbage. Must of been coded by Autodesks DiversityHire™ Despite lofting between symmetrical profiles and using rails the result is not symetrical at all. Why would Autodesk let this shit through quality control? Some people are actually dumb enough to pay them monthly for this. lol. lmao.

>>2759285
The problem with Zeolite is handling. It's a crumbly mess which makes regeneration and re-use without contamination a real pain.

Do you have a link to that paper? I'm assuming the P axis is poorly labelled partial pressure rather than chamber pressure, but if it is chamber pressure those results may not be directly applicable.

does anyone here put stuff between the nozzle and the heater block? like thermal paste, or blue/purple loctite?

>>2759375
if you upped the resolution of your parts it would be a perfect circle then you'd have no ringing. Also, thats a sub 2 hour print on a ratrig. Enders suck

I have recently learned of the pain of humidity and that a lot of my prints could be cleaner with dryer substances.
But how does this affect resin? And if it does, how can i maintain “dry” resin for printing?

>>2759406
Nobody prints with resin here because we're all scared of sensitisation.

Go here, they love resins: >>>/tg/3dpg

>>2759402
I exported the step files and sliced in prusa. Afaik this gives higher resolution than converting to STL in Fusion360 and then slicing. Any options in prusa i should be aware of? >>2757680 is the previous revision of these parts but printed at half the speed, surface quality looks great. Roughly the same slicer settings too. Only thing I did was diffrently when slicing this time was less cooling and doubling the speed. But the previous parts cooled too quick and was brittle...

Got my mercury one.1 kit today also so hopefully i can go faster in the future.

>>2759413
>sensitisation
The what?
Should i be scared?

>>2759439
As long as you use proper protection you're going to be okay

>>2759391
You're right. doi:10.1021/ie701732x is in sci hub. I didn't think zeolite would be that fragile. What size zeolite did you use? Did it break in the mesh bag, or just while regenerating it?

Sanding pla in the shower? To avoid dust in the lungs.
Also using of ghose hot air guns to melt the surface to bond loose straws of filament? Bottom layer wasn't attached to the print at all except for the edges. Pulled off a bunch so now it looks loke shit and some loose ones are still there.

>>2759522
sand it outside with a mask

>>2759526
look man, everyone knows masks don't work - haven't you heard of farting your pants?

>>2759526
It's dark and rainy outside and i don't have a mask.