/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Blender is the greatest CAD software ever to exist.

still using tinkercad after all these years.... i downloaded fusion 360 like a year ago but never used it but apparently its bad for hobby use now too im told?

>>2750689
It's bad for any use because it steals your data.
Get Solidworks, every other CAD is filler content.

>>2750689
I strongly dislike Fusion360, feels slow and clunky as shit to use. Didn't like blender either, it's not really meant for my preferred style of modelling.
Onshape is good in that it resembles Solidworks in terms of building up a list of construction primitives and transformations, being able to rewind & reorder transformation steps, set constraints, variable parameters, etc. But the free edition is cloud and browser-based and requires that your designs be public.

how overkill is two 5010 fans for part cooling?

>>2750740
Depends on your flow rate and materials. If you are shoving 0.8x1.2mm lines of PLA at 100mm/s you may find it useful. In the case it ends up being excessive, you can run the fans slower.

>>2750740
Oh boy waiting for that stupid anon with his 4028 bullshit.

guys what the shit how do I fix? it just autocloses after this.

I sold my prusa and bought a superior printer for less money
truly the apple of printers

>>2750777
>superior printer
yet you name it not

>>2750781
not doxxing myself glownigger

>>2750782

>>2750783
stupid prusa shill

>>2750786
>prusa shill
excuse me, sir, surely you meant Prusa™ Shill By Jusef Prusa™

I would just like to say I have had this ratrig minion for probably nearly 3 years at this point and it has been literally nothing but trouble. I hate this fucking printer. I get less trouble out of a fucking $100 amazon return ender 3. This thing breaks parts like nobody's business and ratOS is fucking pointless. It shipped with a pi3a+ as well so it doesn't even support a screen out of the box. I had to reflash RatOS earlier because it continued to give random shutdowns and errors. Now I'm sitting here trying to get the perfect offset and the fucking belt tensioner on the x axis broke. It is always something with this thing. Also the bed is horrendously out of level which is hilarious given what it cost.

I have printed a lot of stuff on this piece of shit but it has felt like an uphill battle the whole way, and half the fucking parts have been replaced on this thing now. Endstops? Replaced. Parts fans? Replaced. Half the fucking "load bearing" petg parts? Replaced.

I've had everything from enders to prusas and I hate this machine the most. It's cursed. It was really fast when it was new but now in the day of $300 factory core xy machines this thing is so antiquated. I'm just going to find another open box ender 3 v3 ke and never look at this thing again.

t. Guy who came home from work to a catastrophically failed print when I guess klipper decided to crash due to a timeout error and now the heater cables are broken somehow and the belts are loose and fug I hate this thing

>>2750828
why wouldn't you just directly copy someone elses build?

Does it make sense to print an air-air heat exchange element? It seems like it would be much better to print a frame/channels and have the heat transfer across foil. They charge $20 for the design and don't report the performance.

>>2750904
I intend to sandwich foil between holy plastic gaskets.

>>2750661
You're so fucking early, wasn't going to bake for several more hours. The pastebin was updated 1,148 days ago. Nice collage.

>>2750904
>>2750905
Can I get some context for what these are and how they are used?

>>2750828
I feel you.
5 years ago I bought the anycubic i3 mega, *becasue* it had the prebuilt pressed metal frame that worked out-of-the-box after connecting gantry to base. At the time I was considering all the aluminium extrusion based machines because extensibility, so I ended up buying the i3 and then later building an alu-extrusion based coreXY as an endless design/tinker build that never got finished or used to print.... I was redesigning everything faster than I finished anything in pursuit of whatever good design idea i saw or thought up.

Now that I have come back to 3d printing after several years hiatus I clearly see that the INability to alter the basic frame, and it's inherent physical rigidness, are highly desirable. I mean I modify all the bits that go on it, but the frame itself is a hard limitation - and this is a good thing.
Having one dependable, boring machine, and one that you go nuts with, is a good approach. Particularly when the dependable machine can easily be one that only has a small build size... it's only going to be used to print parts for the other machine anyway.

>>2750904
Air-air is already quite shit by itself, you printing it out of a low thermal conductivity material won't do it any favors.

>>2750904
do a rough calculation on the surface area and thickness of the plastic to see what the thermal resistance will be. then compare it to your thermal power to see how efficient it will be. i can't think of an effective foil-based method, but maybe i'm a brainlet.

>>2750974
this isn't a problem with the machine, it's a problem with your brain.

>>2750981
>this isn't a problem with the machine

lol, I was making an observation and being conversational, not describing a problem; all that edge and aloof is distorting your reading comprehension.

Finished printing a tarrasque in 400% size for a friend, since he wanted something to be "in scale" with regular 28mm miniatures. It's over 60cm long after assembly

>>2750992
Reuploading not thumbnail version

>>2750679
I want to learn Blender to make organic shapes but it's so dammn counter intuitive to use when you're used to CAD Software
>4 mirroring
like how is it this hard to make a drill pattern
>7 camera clip planes
the what now?
>fluid simulation
Will this allow me to design fan shrouds?

>>2750860

It's a parts build from what was at the time a premium design, but they cheaped out on most of the electronics so it's just shoddy

>>2750992
>>2750995
Holy shite thats gorgeous Anon, did you use PLA or something else for easier sanding experience?

>>2750974
They are supposed to save heat/cooling when ventilating your building. An "energy recovery ventilator" would be better in my Dfa/Dfb climate, because it would also save on de/humidification costs. I'm considering printing ABS, maybe "low odor" is still too much, but if I vent it outside I have to replace heat. The other option is a UV/TiO2 filter.
>>2750981
For air-air they typically get 10-100W/m2.K overall. A single layer of plastic is 570W/m2.K. Foil or paper layers will only allow reducing the area by a bit. But I'll get twice the m2 per m3, reduced leakage and maybe manual assembly isn't too hard, especially if I only sell the plans.

>>2750550
Sounds like an easy family. My old man is very thankful for every bracket i create for him. But plastic trinkets would be seen as chinese crap here. Some milled wood stuff, that be impressive.

>>2750974
I don't get the premise of this post. Why or what would you change on the mega's frame to begin with?
Also given your picture, why no direct extruder? It's the first thing i did, even before drivers.

>>2750828
I often thought about building a Minion. Living in Europe there's no problem getting the plate replaced till they finally send you a good one, but what held me back to this day is still their terrible electronic box "solution". At one point i expected them to step up and elevate their range with custom controller/printhead boards, but allas they're doing pretty ok milking their little fanbass as is.

>>2751024
I've done it in pla, I think he said he wanted to use liquid chalk over it before painting, also at 0.2 layer height it's really hard to notice at that size

>>2751088
>Sounds like an easy family
Most of those don't go to my family. The majority of the audience is female, aged 45 and above. Most don't even know about 3D printing to begin with, add to this the fact that I live in an ex commie shithole and most people didn't see a PC until the 2000s. It's cheap plastic shit but it's still an instant hit because it's something you can't buy at a store.
I also suspect that in their minds they classify it as handmade, even though it really isn't. Hard to tell for sure, but they like it so I print it.

>>2751103
Looks sick. Miniature companies would have you pay 200-300$ easy for something this size. I hope your friend knows

>>2750995
>>2751103
holy shit, nice
Which printed did you use? And also how long it took?

>>2751029
Starting painting with acrylic and I did use a primer. Works well thanks

>ABS warps
>ABS stinks
>you will have poor layer adhesion from draft
I bought esun ABS+ for my bedslinger and it prints with 0 issues so far and I notice more smell from my PLA. The plus is not a joke huh?

>>2751143
Yeah he's aware of that, he usually sculpted minis with greenstuff or something I think
>>2751148
I've printed it on a stock sovol sv06, each piece took about 12hrs for 7 pieces and about 120g with 5% infill

>>2751160
>ABS+
Can you still smooth it with acetone? Also what was the size and wall count/infill% of your print, if you still managed to print something bigger than a small trinket then its pretty impressive.
How its compared to ASA? Genuinely curious.

>>2751088
>Why or what would you change on the mega's frame to begin with?

Apparently people cant understand what is written.
TLDR: I bought it because it was physically rigid, but it turns out that also stops me from working on that aspect.... and having two printers that are out of service due to design-overenthusiasm.

>>2751058
i see
UV TiO2 seems the logical choice; i assume its a closed system with no outside venting required, but that cost/complexity is a factor.

>>2751088
>why no direct extruder

I was doing that on the 2nd machine before thermistor0 on my main machine motherboard died - which was not only ridiculous, but incredibly frustrating - and i switched interests for several years.
I'm the design-and-make-things-for-reasons kind of 3dprinter, not the print-shit-i-download type. So rebuilding the printer is something I tend to do in excess.
I do have a new direct toolhead I need to adapt a mount for...lol, and several old ones actually...but for now I'm just printing the things I have been meaning to do for years while I was pissed at the i3: repairing existing non-printed objects, making useful tools, improving and reprinting components of the i3, stuff thats cracked and breaking etc, with emphasis on NOT regularly disabling the only working printer i have due to changing it too frequently. It is difficult to resist though.
I have ~15Kg of mediocre quality PLA from 2018 I'm re-acquainting myself with, and will need to use pet-g for specific things at some point, so I don't *need* direct extrusion.... yet.

>>2750904
Why model some silly planer thing when gyroid infill is already an ultra-high-surface-area mixed two volume surface?

>>2751229
A: to get directional flow with lower flow resistance
B: so you can use aluminium foil as an interface with far higher thermal conductivity

>Printables blocks you from accessing their website if you click a link from Makerworld
Lol
Lmao

Does PLA have any fumes/odors/partials which warrant buying or making an enclosure? From what I've read online people say it does but no one seems to care.

>>2751239
it does but its extremely miniscule

>>2751236
Blocked By Josef Prusa

>>2751239
It has some.
Not worth an enclosure.
It's one of those things where your Air Conditioner generates more particles than the PLA.

>>2751239
The stuff i've used nearly 30Kg of to date: US$12/Kg from china smells like food, if anything. It's quite pleasant, but I find it rarely smells at all any more. I've never used an enclosure with PLA.

However; there is something about its electron charge that makes it attract to my skin, even in high humidity. When I'm filing/deburring/tooling it I notice that it has a tendency to get in my nose/eyes despite actively avoiding that kind of proximity, and washing hands afterwards isnt quite done unless i use soap....So you may also find that any stringing can result in airborne strands that will get in your eyes etc. My partfan seemed to be catching almost all of it, thats really the only reason I noticed and correlated minor eye irritation after waking the next day.
That said: compared to other materials like ABS it's almost completely benign, and simply a case of a little area hygiene, maybe a bigger filtered fan drawing air from the printer's general vicinity.
There's no strong reason not to enclose though, aside from additional heat on the board and nemas; which may result in filament fouls if they get up near 50C+...and of course it limits access to the printer, which can be tedious.
I did recently buy a soft enclosure, but need some parts before i can install the mobo inside it, instead of on the desk next to it, and my work area is quite open to outdoors and breezy: so closed-loop AC'd spaces probably warrant enclosure a lot more.

I can't believe I fell for this meme
0.4 is the standard for a reason

>>2751273
>he trusted a youtube nigger
It's ok anon... we all make mistakes

>>2751229
Planar should print faster.
>>2751231
>lower flow resistance
True. But higher flow resistance also raises heat transfer coefficients, which can reduce the length needed. Colburn's j says the two effects cancel out.

>>2750786
Design Prototype Test, that you?

>>2751303
>higher flow resistance also raises heat transfer coefficients
I did not know that, guess it makes sense that the surface contact is more pronounced. But wouldn't it be better to increase flow resistance by increasing the surface area of the contact area, rather than by having the air flow go in a wiggly pattern? Because the former should increase the heat transfer even more.

My desire would be to make a cross-flow heat exchanger since that looks like an easy enough topology to make highly dense, and would be relatively easy to make with aluminium foil squares between 3D printed layers. And a bunch of adhesive to stick pipes to the four ends. Pic related

>>2751365
Here's a slightly better design, with bottom and top panels.

>>2750661
Bought a new, supposedly retard friendly mainboard. I assume I should be able to reuse my drivers, but my btt tft probably won't work, yeah? What about my ebb36?

>>2751375
Looks good. How close can you get the foil layers?

>>2751239
I think you'll still smell it from an enclosure.

>>2751404
I used 1.5mm thick cross-bars and a 3.5mm air gap for each layer, making it 5mm between layers. But if there's not much of a pressure difference between the two sides, you could likely go for really thin cross-bars (e.g. 0.5mm). The air gap was chosen arbitrarily, you may well be able to reduce it to 2mm without much effect, maybe even below 1mm if the flow rate is low.

stay far away from cura
It is a piece of shit

>>2751239
bro just put your printer in a closet or shed and seal the door
then hold your breath when you go in
that's what I do

>>2751432
>not hotboxing the microplastic fumes
I'm slowly becoming a synthetic lifeform.

>>2751167
>I've printed it on a stock sovol sv06, each piece took about 12hrs for 7 pieces and about 120g with 5% infill
If you put a cht nozzle on there and improve the cooling situation you can print a lot faster. The quality is actually incredible

>me 4 years ago
>>I'LL GET A 3D PRINTER AND START AN ENGINEERING PROTOTYPING COMPANY IN MY FUCKING KITCHEN WITH CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY AND BLACKJACK AND HOOKERS
>me now
>>*wakes up, yawns, rub eyes* oh look, the curtainrod holders are done, I guess that's one less trip to the hardware store this month

>>2751194
>Apparently people cant understand what is written.
Don't know what to tell you after you'd spend a whole paragraph >>2751200 not answering the base question once. You could try to become a politician.

>>2751393
Read the fucking docs.

>>2751492
And that's not great enough for you? Instead of spending time and money getting to and buying something from the hardware store, you get your own, perfect fitting solution overnight. You know, like it is supposed to be..

>>2751512
>And that's not great enough for you? Instead of spending time and money getting to and buying something from the hardware store, you get your own, perfect fitting solution overnight. You know, like it is supposed to be..
I wasn't complaining desu
>captcha: 0WAR

>why should I get a 3d printer?
Because can literarily print statues made by Michelangelo. The reason you shouldn't get a 3d printer is if you are Michelangelo.

>>2751518
Who says Michelangelo can't use a 3d printer?

>>2751521
Why would he need to?

>>2751526
Don't need to do anything, but maybe he would, I don't know.

>>2751273
>Prusa XL now ships with 0.4 nozzle again
kek

It's 5. Dear God, Joseph.

>>2751635
those 6 months of Delivery Time By Josef Prusa just makes the arrival all that sweeter, just like the Haribos included By Josef Prusa in every Box By Josef Prusa

Just realized that the k1 even has its own slicer even better. You can also pick ranging from pla to carbon fiber on the settings. Good printer all around.

>>2751236
He's absolutely seething.

>>2751273
Do you guys just use one size nozzle for everything?
I use 0.2, 0.4 and 0.8mm nozzles and just swap around as needed. Takes 10 minutes max to swap nozzle, including heating the old nozzle and pulling out filament remains while soft so the nozzle is clean and ready again for next time.

>>2751681
One time i was changing a nozzle and i was having trouble getting it off. It popped off and by instinct I caught it in my hand only I had warmed it up a few minutes ago to clean it so it was still a few hundred degrees hot and instantly blistered my hand.

>>2751687

>>2751236
>>2751243
>>2751672
Context? I've never used Makerworld. Is Prusa being a cuck?

>>2751423
Maybe you don't need a crossbar. Or flow should be parallel to the bars.

>>2751701
Makerworld is the model site that Bambu hosts. It integrates with their app so you can just click print from the model site and it goes straight to the printer.
People upload models to there because you get straight gift cards for downloads, but they'll also upload things to printables.
So if you're on Makerworld on a model and they link a model from Printables, Prusa has it coded where it'll block you from accessing Printables.
He's being a seething cuck.

>>2751711
You also cannot put a makerworld link on your printables model page.
So I've just stopped uploading to printables.

What is there combined IQ?

>there

>>2751711
I'm a bambucuck myself but I'd never use makerworld to be honest. I don't trust no cunt with print settings.

>>2751512
>interprets the original statements backwards
>continues to misrepresent the long-form.
>ignores the tldr

silence child.

help polypropylene not stick
printing at 240 / 65 on i3. i've got a tube of magigoo PP and i feel like im going pretty heavy on the goo. yet, it doesn't reliably adhere to the bed.

>>2751681
I would rather wait an extra 2 hours printing than spend 5 seconds changing a nozzle
the worst part is when you're done you have to change it back

>>2751739
Then just download the .stl and slice it yourself? It's not like Makerworld hides them.

>>2751753
Why do you have to change it back every time? Leave it in until you need to use a different one.

>>2751788
99% of prints are done with 0.4
you can get 0.6 speeds just by increasing extrusion width

>>2751818
NTA, but can one, conversely, use 0.2 settings with an 0.4 physical nozzle successfully?

>>2751839
I think you lose some quality and accuracy
give it a shot

>>2751845
I'm visiting family this week and didn't bring the printer with me, hence why I asked. I will indeed give it a shout when I get back but I'd like to know what to expect.

>>2751711
If your model is a remix of a Printables model you can link back to it from Makerworld, Crazy they'd cloudflare block traffic from Makerworld
>>2751739
Download the STL, you don't have to use the print profiles. You can earn gift cards for uploading good profiles though, I was getting a steady amount of points for one of mine until some one reported it for breaking the rules (it didnt break the rules)

Is there anywhere in the USA where I can recycle failed prints?
otherwise I am trashing it all

>>2751871
https://printeriordesigns.com/pages/recycling

>>2751512
>Read the docs
I had heard that different "good" chinese manufacturers locked compatibility on parts to prevent mixing brands. I figured a quick question wouldn't hurt, cunt.
Secondly, yes, I read the docs, via Google Translate. It does not support other brands of tft

Question: What substance could I paint onto a print to make separating print from support 99% perfect?
Obviously I would pause the print at the right layer.
I was initially thinking some form of liquid, weather it dried or not, but probably a powder based substance like some kind of makeup, or chalky ultrafine powder would work.
It would need to be neutral as far as attracting or repelling the filament goes, but not so repellant as to make the layer being deposited on top of it form poorly... and not somethng messy that got mixed with the filament/everything that ends up touching it afterwards.
Thoughts?

>>2751892
dissolvable supports are made of PVA

>>2751899
on a single filament setup.
also, dissolving support filament is expensive.
I just want to maximize my results printing cheap PLA. Really getting tired of the results normal supporting gives.
inb4 >shotgun hairspray it

>>2751926
>expensive
...oooooor maybe PVA prices are better than they were when i last looked back in 2018
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001217703115.html
entredasting...
but its still a cost of 100%-200% for the dissolvable part as what i pay for the PLA/PETG part. a PLA soltuion would be much better. Time to spend more on trying different solutions than what the obvious conventional solutions would have cost.

>>2751892
>What substance could I paint onto a print to make separating print from support 99% perfect?
Sunflower seed oil. Or rapeseed. Or literally any other oil you have in your kitchen.

>>2751928
yeah, i'v had that suggestion before. It seems a little messy. But I like the thinking. I keep eyeing my solder flux brush... but also messy.
I'm going to try scribbling over the support layer with a carpenters pencil. I'm not sure if the graphite would aggressively repel the next layer or not. Doesn't seem like it would be too adhesive.

>>2751891
No, you wanted to be spoonfed and it didn't happen. Try harder.

>>2751857
It's okayish. I tried moving to 0.6 for petg-cf to finally follow recommendations, but lines' thickness was inconsistent. Not enough to ruin the print, but noticeable on closer inspection. That was right after Arachne dropped though, maybe it got better.

>>2751774
>>2751862
Obviously I can just download the stl, but I don't like this muh account and muh rules shit. I'll just stick to thingiverse.

>>2751892
Why not make manual supports with easy to break off tabs? Also design your models so they need as few supports as possible. Make them out of multiple parts if you have to.

>>2751950
>Why not make manual supports with easy to break off tabs?
If theres a simple way to do this I'm not aware of it. Maybe it's just that when I am forced to use supports its always going to be onerous.
I have been known to manually model small supports here and there, but usually i cant always be bothered doing design contortions to avoid them.
picrel from stuff I used semi-regularly 4 years ago.. i cant even remember what half of them were for.

> Also design your models so they need as few supports as possible.
Yeah, obviously. That's pretty much my entire design philosophy. None of this "make elegant blah" or "technically sleek blah"... basically just 'SUPPORTS BAD'

> Make them out of multiple parts if you have to.
Always, but sometimes its just too ridiculous.

So the scribbling on support worked quite well.
Graphite seems to stick to it a fair bit, and the white marker a bit better... which is 'permanent', but doesnt have the usual permanent marker xylene/toluene smell, and always gives the impression its pigment is somehow powdery.
Got overzealous and popped the white marker test while still soft... the graphite was still too difficult to separate, but it was clean... and the busted-ass one I couldnt even separate is the normal defaults on 0.3mm layers. It usually works better than this on larger surfaces; i intentionally chose a test-scale that is difficult to separate. It's 0.2 layers that always make me hate supports, so this 0.3 is easy mode.

Totally going to use several layers of white marker next time i need a clean support release.

>>2751958
lol
looking at these i have a feeling SET_PAUSE_AT_LAYER a layer early, and these are me separating the 3rd layer of support from the 2nd, in which case LOL... also doing it at the right layer should separate really well.

ok, at the correct layer this time:
0.3mm layers, 0.4mm nozzle AND width setting (not the default 0.45)
top to bottom:
0.2mm support contact distance - graphite - meh, discontinuing graphite tests
0.2mm support contact distance - white marker
0.1mm support contact distance - white marker
0.0mm support contact distance - white marker
The last two seem best, with 0.1 gap being slightly easier to separate.

I made this battery holder but it still doesn't work. It's a stubborn little battery.

>>2751960
I've also been off by one when embedding nuts. The Cura plugin could be more helpful too.

Printing PETG, keep getting a weird issue where perimeters don't attach to each other strongly. There's strong adhesion between layers, but parts are baisically onions made of vertical shells, if you make a cube with no infill and handle it they'll separate.

>>2752089
do a filament flow calibration
it will be under "extrusion multiplier" in your slicer
You should also calibrate the extruder steps by extruding 100mm of filament then measuring with a ruler how much was really extruded.
What this youtuber https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PL_rSPZ3M8

My organizer box came out perfect.
I got the file if anyone's interested.

>>2752114
Where are the sections for ftm and mtf?

>>2752116
Probably hanging around here somewhere

>>2750661
I plan to get myself a x1c combo (with AMS)
The goal is to use it for education (university students, kids)
I plan to open courses to teach kids how to model in 3D, as well as students
I owned open source Ender printers before, I want a printer that can reliably print under a time-schedule to fit demand
Is there any particular reason not to downgrade my purchase and opt for a P1S?
Additionally, would you recommend any specific company for filament purchases?
thank you anons,
>t. newfag

>>2752126
I recommend the k1 and freecad
Also use creality software not cura. Yes they made the ender 3 but the k1 is like a rolls royce in comparison.

>>2752130
What problems can there by with the BambuLab printers that you'd not recommend them? Just the price? I dislike that they are closed source but I've had enough of running a piece of paper on the printer between every print

>>2752114
>came out perfect
you uhhh gonna remove the brim on that?
>perfect
hmmm...

>>2752140
Well yes for me it was the price desu

>>2752140
do not buy a bambulabs
buy a ratrig vcore 3.1 500mm^3
It has 7 times the build volume of the patheticlabs k1 and was made by glorious europeans. The upside of this is that when the west goes to war with china your printer wont download the special new chinese "catch fire immediately" update.
https://ratrig.com/v-core3default.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPxlbfAeEq0

>>2752145
Well yes I did notice that third wall was thicker so yes it wasn't perfect. But hey it's an organizer.

>>2752149
I need an enclosure, temp and humidity control. This doesn't fit and I don't trust my technical skills in fabricating one myself

>>2752114
Y-you don't remove the brim?

>>2752140
>I've had enough of running a piece of paper on the printer between every print
We solved that almost a decade ago. That one is on you.
>K1
Ought to be K1C. Which is the same thing p, but better. Don't worry, if money isn't the elephant in the room, the X1C will do you good, you may even use the new open source firmware if you're really into that. Unfortunately all the X1 clones have more or less proprietary flaws right now, so there isn't a definitive best alternative.
The best open source and learning what your printer does thing is still voron/ratrig. >>2752155 panels are available.

>>2752159
I see good things about voron.
Could you direct me to a nice rundown or review? preferably local
I read bad reviews about ratrig

>>2752114
>fatherfucker
>motherfucker
>mothermater

Made a replacement keyfob, thought I'd share for the OP thumbnail. Only other non-test print before this was nano SIM to micro SIM adapter.
Hoping to start venturing out to less functional and more useless fun prints soon.

>>2752114
>>2752150

I feel bad that you've made this organiser and I want to help you.
I've designed a replacement for you which follows properly designed for 3d printing. I hope you can learn from it and improve your own designs.
I've uploaded it to thingiverse but I need to wait 24 hours for it to be published. As of the 3rd february this link should work:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6463881
In the mean time you can get it here:
https://files.catbox.moe/jmbxwz.stl
Print it WITHOUT SUPPORTS and 3 walls, floors, ceilings with 15% infill.
No brims needed unless you're too poor to afford a PEI sheet.

>>2752114
>>2752145
>>2752150
>>2752196 NTA but

// organizer.scad
// Box dimensions in mm
BOX_DIMS = [244,200,100];
// Wall width in mm
WALL = 4;
// Amount of slots
SEPARATIONS = 3;

difference() {
cube(BOX_DIMS);
translate([1,1,1]*WALL) {
w=((BOX_DIMS[0]-WALL)/SEPARATIONS)-WALL;
for(i=[0:SEPARATIONS-1])
translate([i*(w+WALL),0,WALL])
cube([w,BOX_DIMS[1]-2*WALL,BOX_DIMS[2]]);
}
}

>>2752197
I don't see any rounded bevels in there
Going above 10mm/s will be ring central

>>2752114
>second inner wall is double the thickness of the first

>>2752199
>Going above 10mm/s will be ring central
Who the fuck cares? It's not affecting overall strength. Ringing is a purely aesthetic issue.

>>2752199
>I don't see any rounded bevels in there
// organizer.scad
// Box dimensions in mm
BOX_DIMS = [244,200,100];
// Wall width in mm
WALL = 4;
// Amount of slots
SEPARATIONS = 3;
// Roundedness in each vertical corner, in mm
ROUNDEDNESS = 2;
module rounded_cube(size, roundedness) {
linear_extrude(size[2]) hull()
for(i=[0,1]) for(j=[0,1])
translate([(size[0]-2*roundedness)*i,
(size[1]-2*roundedness)*j]
+[1,1]*roundedness)
circle(roundedness);
}
difference() {
rounded_cube(BOX_DIMS,ROUNDEDNESS);
translate([1,1,1]*WALL) {
w=((BOX_DIMS[0]-WALL)/SEPARATIONS)-WALL;
for(i=[0:SEPARATIONS-1])
translate([i*(w+WALL),0,WALL])
rounded_cube([w,BOX_DIMS[1]-2*WALL,BOX_DIMS[2]],ROUNDEDNESS);
}
}

>>2752228
Thanks anons but I will not be learning scad ever.

I keep getting a thermal runaway error trying to print PLA+ at 220-225ish on an Ender 5 Pro.
I tried PID tuning is there anything else I should be looking at? Thermistor fucked?

>>2752196
>>2752114
Hey thanks anons, always nice to have little organizers like this. I'll make one for my mother.

Any ideas for how to design a monitor arm that can hold a screen up to 33lbs? (Odyssey G9) They all seem to have this design, and they're all no less than 100$ on amazon.

>>2752365
>spend $1200 on a monitor
>can't afford an $80 stand to hold it up
what a loser

Where can you get cults3d premium files without being a pay pig?

>>2752370
>Armenia
Why are you here if your answer for everything is to consoom? I don't have the monitor, I thought it would be a cool idea and was wondering if anyone had similar experience or any applicable engineering knowledge.

If I add a custom water cooling and insulation setup to my Prusa MK4 enclosure, can I print PEEK?

>>2752400
Also I'm replacing the printed parts with CF-PA12 that have a glass transition temp of 150C.

>>2752365
I highly doubt you will get away with a purely printed stand. The design will probably end up using something like threaded rods for rigidity and load bearing.
The joints are what scare me though, those will be mostly printed so they will have to take the lever arm stress as well as have a locking mechanism strong enough to keep the thing in position.
Could it be done? Probably. But I'm not sure, I'm no mechanical engineer.

>>2751892
Anon if you print something where majority of the supports stop at the same height, pause the layer apply glue on top of the support and resume print. When I do this method I have the model print directly on the support no z gap between the support and model, underside looks better and the come right off.

This method also works if you don't have to pause so much if you are able to put glue on all of the supports.

>>2751899
>dissolvable supports are made of PVA

This should have been a huge indicator that you can use layer of glue, the purple disappearing and majority of the glue out there has PVA in it.

>>2752413
Maybe there's a ratchet seatbelt mechanism to hang it like pic related Delta robot.

>>2752365
>plastic bar
Maybe.
>plastic arm
Haha, no.

Just get a cheap metal one and save yourself the trouble of smashing your monitor into your desk when it breaks.

>>2752365
I'd propose a vertical stand with feet jutting out under the centre of mass. At least you could start with a plain vertical stand and iterate to add functionality, like a screw to adjust vertical position, a horizontal pivot, a vise to grab the rear edge of the desk, etc.

>>2751892
Sharpie. Not even joking.

>>2752516
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrSOCXSOQ2w

>>2752505
after experiencing the bliss that is floating monitor on telescopic arm with free space underneath I will never ever go back to monitor mounts with feet

>>2752140
>What problems can there by with the BambuLab printers that you'd not recommend them?
There are very few problems
Don't let open-source evangelists gas light you otherwise.

If your goal is just to print things, and not tinker with the printer itself, then almost nothing beats a Bambu.

New chink kino

>>2752544
>toolhead already looks crooked
never change Creality

How do you easily do stuff like add hex patterns to walls to save filament in Fusion 360?

>>2752544
Is that a bambu toolhead?

>>2752544
Is this corexz shit actually worth it? It may get rid of my screw wobbling artifacts but there are other ways to do it

>>2752567
https://kevinakasam.com/belt-driven-ender-3/
Belted Z has been around for a while on the ender 3. It should be decent at removing Z wobble from chinese lead screws.
The reason you go to coreXY is to remove the mass of a stepper motor on the toolhead gantry which allows you to increase acceleration. The problem with a bed slinger is that YOU STILL HAVE THE WEIGHT OF THE BED AND PRINT MOVING. Core XZ is pathetic and nothing more than a belted Z mod for an ender 3 with ZERO acceleration benefits.
Therefore it is a worthless marketing gimmick for yuppies. Do not buy a bed slinger, do not buy chinese.

>>2752544
How can a bed slinger be corexy?

>>2752565
Looks like the k1 toolhead.

>>2752585
READ NIGGA READ
>>2752584
Ye, but I already have the Ender 3. I know that eventually I'll pay for another printer in upgrades yadda yadda, but installments are a bitch in my shithole, and I'm not afraid of learning, so I can survive buying a turd and polishing it.

Do you guys know where I can get STLs for lamps like this one?

>>2752586
Oh yeah you're right. I guess these brands are all getting so similar now.
>>2752593
All the usual places. maker,thingi,printables.

>>2752535
Theres an active recall on the A1 printer due to them cheaping out on the mains wiring for the bed. Shits sparking and burning through the wires, super good chinese engineering at work

>>2752587
>If one motor rotates while the other remains stationary, the belt moves the printhead diagonally.
I think that printer should be called coreXZ. I don't think they pair the left-right (X) to the in-out (Y) because you have to twist a belt and it's complicated by Z movement.

>>2752604
>I think that printer should be called coreXZ
And what does it say, in big bold letters, in the background? >>2752544

>>2752599
Found this tutorial so fuck it, I'll do it myself

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izV9SJpIDWk

>>2752607
I could have sworn it was XY.

>>2752629
God damn that picture is heinous, what a waste of time and rubber.

>>2752544
>exchange cheap chinese leadscrew with cheap chinese belts
>use it as marketing term in big bold letters like you just invented sliced bread
hate bugpeople so much it's unreal

>>2752544
i dont get creality, hasnt the v3 se and ke been out for months yet the top of the line model is just called the V3???

>>2752636
They're retards who focus on flooding the market, that's their whole thing. It's why they never replace old models and concurrently produce 10 - 15 "different" printers at any time.

>>2752629
do all of them always have to pull a little to keep it elevated in Z? that's super weird. Does that mean there is the possibility of "layer shifts" on Z? that sounds like a desaster

>>2752641
Belted Z isn't an issue, so long as you have a bed level probe to measure the Z height after powering it off and on again.

>>2752646
but if your print head were to get obstructed or a motor skips a step you don't just have a layer shift your bed will tilt correct?

>>2752636
No idea which price point it's going to fill, SE is the cheap-ish ender, KE is the fancy ender and K1 is only a little more expensive than KE.

>>2752667
also, it looks completely different than the v3 se/ke its odd that its even named V3

Is it possible to print sheets that are 16” long and 12” wide like pic related with a home machine nowadays or is it counterproductive to do so? A plexi sheet costs $20 at most sites. Assumed it’ll cost less if diy

>>2752600
Shit happens
If your worried about chinkshit, why would anyone recommend a k1?

>>2752567
>my screw wobbling artifacts
How horrible are they? (picrelated) Is my screw beyond screwed or can I save it with a new antibacklash nut[1] and coupler[2]? I could replace the screw too but the official Creality screw is suspiciously cheap[3] and the alternative is suspiciously expensive[4].
Prices in Argentine Peso, USDARS around 1200
[1] https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-881599869 around USD 7.20
[2] https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-1387410124 around USD 16.00
[3] https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-935533752 around USD 23.30
[4] https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-934870076 around USD 46.50
>but straight from AliExpr-
Maybe the smoler parts, but here in Argentina the screws will arrive around as straight as Liberace in drag thumbing through gay porn magazines if ordered by themselves.

>>2752700
>inb4 hand
No, I will not bake you a pizza

Y'all just mad youre cheaping out on getting a good 3d printer

i really want some genuine gates belts every time i see a printer with brown belts now

>>2752702
I cheaped out with Creality but I'm not mad. I see you are not mad either. Congratulations, my chinkshit brother.

>>2752600
>due to them cheaping out on the mains wiring
Due to the instructions telling people to not lean the entire printer on the cable when assembling, and people then leaning the entire printer on the cable.
If you have two synapses to rub together and did not damage your own printer, then it will continue to work just fine.

And bedslinger with a heated bed can have issues with the heater cable if not handled properly, e.g. the Prusa Mini ripping its cable out if it snags on the electronic box. So don't do that.

>>2752705
>check muh fire hazard cable
>perfectly fine
>print the strain relief in 20 minutes
>never think about it again
did I just got CHINK'd??

>>2752636
>>2752544
ok, so this new one is called the V3 Plus

>>2752712
Do not be fooled! Installing the reinforced strain relief will not protect you from the true threat: Xi Jinpeng abseiling into your room and squishing your cable!

>>2752741
fucking knew it
that dastardly devil has been eyeing my bathroom wall for the longest time

got an sv07 on sale, how fucked am I? did i fall in the chink trap thinking it was gonna be as good as an sv06?

I don't know if this is the right thread to ask but what do you guys use for drawing? I use FreeCAD but sometimes I get stuck on some dumb kernel retardation and it frustrates me to no end having to figure out the software instead of the damn part I'm trying to print.

>>2752790
Solidworks. Very reliable and the interface is retard friendly.

>>2752798
I'm going to have to pirate it, right?

>>2752799
I don't see anyone ITT paying hundreds for a yearly CAD license, so yes.
>inb4 the 30$ cloud based shit
Not paying with my data, thanks.

>>2752790
siemens NX
but only because my university was butt-buddies with GM and that automatically meant we learned on it

>>2752700
>screw wobbling artifacts
So, I'm replacing my Ender 3's factory coupling with that oldham coupling. I THINK that I don't have much backlash.
What should I use to lube the screw? I ain't buying a whole litre bottle of machine oil. Is PTFE spray any good?

>>2751727
It's about tree gridfinity

>>2752114
Why are the wall thicknesses different?

>>2752847
To avoid backlash on an oldham coupling, I think mounting them on top of the axis is better. But I can't actually think why that would be better. Maybe I got memed?

Now that I probably won't use a laser or drill on that machine anymore in favour of my snampaker, I should probably just swap it to dual belted Z with a bed level probe. And put some effort into squaring my frame.

>>2752673
why use plex?
no, printing that would not be fiscally responsible.
you should order a 12x16 aircraft aluminum blank from online metals or some other distributor and have your welding shop drill the holes after you have plotted them.
Max $40 and you get a better product.

>>2752888
This but with a 1 inch thick titanium plate. Very high quality feel and also doubles as body armor to avoid being shot by the local niggers.

>>2752892
aluminum is cheap and doubles as a heat sink but makes for a shitty body armor I guess.

I just realized that I can 3D print linear bearings.

>>2752902
>I just realized that I can 3D print linear bearings.
What's the usecase? Plastic linear bearings may wear out easily

>>2752884
>To avoid backlash on an oldham coupling, I think mounting them on top of the axis is better. But I can't actually think why that would be better. Maybe I got memed?
You have a constant downwards force from the weight, even if you're moving the carriage downwards (at least if you have a very lubricated screw). I have thought about it but I worry about wear. If you use the coupling under the axis, as shown traditionally, the bearing surfaces are the big flat surfaces in the middle of the carriage and flanges. In tension, the bearing surfaces are the dovetails, which are smaller and thus will receive a higher pressure.
>>2752847
>What should I use to lube the screw? I ain't buying a whole litre bottle of machine oil. Is PTFE spray any good?
On this, what do you guys use? I've given it a google and found everything from plain old WD40, which I worry will evaporate too quickly, to several greases, which I worry will attract dust, to sewing machine oils, which may have both problems.

I printed the lil boat OK, but it had some hangers on the pillars to the roof. Ender 3v2
i made an adapter for an air vent in fusion360, probably should've printed a short version to test dimensions first. eta 12 more hrs...
Noticed the far ends 1st layer(right in pic) didnt go well.
place bets on me waking up to a room of fuzz

>>2752790
blender
Once you set up the units correctly (see first post ) it's very intuitive to use and there's a plethora of tutorials available.
Only problem is the performance is ass because of the number of vertices needed to make a smooth curve.
luckily i've got a good PC

>>2753040
is that a brim?
Why don't you have a PEI sheet?

>>2753025
>On this, what do you guys use?
Manual gearbox oil.

Is a 0.2 mm FR4/G10 sheet too thin? A 100x70x1.4 mm FR4 taped at the edges bends <1mm. So far nylon adhesion is good with the original finish. I think I'll glue the 0.2mm FR4 it to sheet metal with epoxy. Or I could use a thicker plate with a few magnets in top or inside.

>>2752790
Fusion360, or pirate an offline piece of CAD software (Solidworks et al).
Anyone telling you to use blender or some non-CSG modelling software is a complete moron - using a polygonal modeller for solid geometry is like recommending a 12" paint roller for portraiture: it's the wrong fucking tool for the job.

>>2753025
>On this, what do you guys use?
Sueprlube, but any Silicone or Lithium grease will work fine. The loads are so absurdly low for a printer Z axis that basically any grease will work.
For 'attracting dust', just clean and relube the leadscrews occasionally as you should already be doing anyway to prevent wear and avoid z-travel inconsistency.

>>2753172
You imply fusion isn't an offline software? How does it work then? Is it also paid?

>>2753172
Freecad isn't bad but it didn't export my model right last time so I ended up doing some extra editing on blender

>>2753188
FreeCAD shits itself at random when doing fillets and chamfers because of some bullshit code.

>>2753176
>You imply fusion isn't an offline software?
Yes, fusion is cloud based garbage. Unless you pay for the full package.
>How does it work then?
It works just like any other CAD but every time you want to save or export a file it goes through their cloud first, to verify you aren't making too much money with the free version (read: they steal your models and sell them to chang).
>Is it also paid?
Yes. You pay with your wallet or you pay with your data. Nothing* is free in this world.

*not applicable to /t/roopers

>>2753141
give 3M 468MP sheets a try, they are made for this specific purpose, some local guy is running a g10 sheet on his mk3s+ this way with no issues
>>2753198
works on my machine, just need to get over its autism

>>2753198
Freecad is too slow on anything but the simplest models, unless it's set to "skip recomputes". They recompute the things your sketch is used to produce every time you make a tiny change to the sketch. At least one user will argue it's a feature instead of helping to fix it.

>>2753174
>>2753125
>>2753025
I got some generic machine 710 and dedicated a sponge. There's also an oldham coupler on the way. I gave the printer a rub and I'm waiting for it to dry a bit before running some print.
Maybe I could make a little box for the 710 bottle and sponge.

>>2753261
I don't mind the speed, I never make parts that complicated anyway.
My problem that bother me to no end is the chamfers and fillets. There are some requirements for making those and that's all fine but due to some kernel code, sometimes other operations or restraints you set somewhere else make the program think there's line somewhere when there isn't and that can break the fillet function and the worst part is that the error message gives you no info on what's causing the problem.
I've used for like 2 or 3 years by now, I don't do much with it because I don't have a printer of my own, but over that time this issue has always made be abandon projects or remake them differently and it's bullshit.
I'll wait maybe one or two days more and pirate solidworks or some other program that the anons suggest. I only ever used FreeCAD so I don't know the pros and cons of each so I'll give time and check the suggestions.

>>2752790
Sketchup Make 2017 for quick drawing, OpenSCAD for more methodical parametric modelling. Why no, I do not use chamfers, how did you guess?

>>2753266
As for alternate free CAD software, FreeCAD forks are ok. OpenSCAD if you’re autistic and don’t need chamfers. CadQuery or ImplicitCad might be more powerful than OpenSCAD. There’s also BRL-CAD and SolveSpace.

>>2753282
Freecad forks?

They make glow in the dark sewer pipe

Turned out pretty good and im happy with it. Besides the part that didnt stick to the bed which i knew was likely going to happen(only cosmetic). I think i need to spin those wheels at the bottom a bit.
Fits the fan part great, it just has a minuscule gap. I think i shouldve made it a bit longer though.
It fits the other park kinda more loosely but i think it will do the job.
The other side will also need an adapter eventually, im thinking of remaking it like the shitty drawing in my pic. With indents and a bar(3 of them maybe) to hold it onto the fan like a sandwhich.
>>2753091
>PEI sheet
idk what that is, i have the glass one that came with it but always had issue printing on the side they say to, except my very first print.
>is that a brim?
yea, brim/skirt or whatever cus i had trouble with adhesion, ended up giving up and using a glue stick
first boat popped off 1/3 way thru, went fine with gluestick

I've been printing nothing but boring cad parts. Should I print an anime girl or something?

>>2753337
marble statue, its atleast classy

>>2753262
>>2753025
>>2752847
>screw wobbling
After applying 710, I ran a quick print that looks okayish. I wish I would have taken a picture for you to get at and tell me it's just some unfixable chinkshit and the improvement is minimal, so you'll have to imagine it. I'll see if I get taller prints tomorrow.

>>2753289
Glow is abrasive.

>>2753282
Too bad the original authors don't maintain implicitcad. Jscad has many more features, but I would rather write Haskell than js or python. Cadquery looks interesting too, but it probably has the same problems as freecad as it uses the same opencascade.

>>2753025
I use molybdenum disulfide grease.

>>2753351
This but the unfinished statue of Nike from the Louvre.

>>2753393
>the original authors don't maintain implicitcad
Oh, wonder if there's any forks? Or if it's good enough as is?
>probably has the same problems as freecad
I get the feeling that opencascade isn't the issue, rather that the freecad layer atop it is the problem. The company behind opencascade do some professional tools with this core, so it can't be unusably buggy. Obtuse, maybe.

after watch some modern printer reviews, I really wish i didnt commit to the ender sink cost fallacy and just buy a better printer instead of gradually slapping on 300 dollars worth of mods

>>2753452
maybe the real 3d printer was the frustration you endured along the way?

seriously though, an ender is still a good thing to learn how 3d printers work. knowing when to quit and get a better printer is kinda tough though.
i draw the line after a v6 hot end, dual-z, and a bunch of 3d printed accessories and firmware tweaking. no linear rails, no mains heated bed, no raspi with klipper, no enclosure. the belts and bearings and hot end you upgrade to can of course be carried on to a later printer build.

what did you do to it?

>>2753453
ender 3 v2
sprite pro kit
klipper pad
magnetic flex plate
bl touch
minor misc things

ignore the lamp, its temporary, plan to install a better parts cooling fan, and most likely belted z

>>2752593
search for penis.stl on google

>>2753453
>seriously though, an ender is still a good thing to learn how 3d printers work
It isn't. Stop recommending Enders.

>>2753484
nah mate, hes kind of right, in an attempt to get them to print anything properly you will need to replace just about every part of an ender, which will teach you a lot about now printers work.
you wont get that kind of an education from a bambu or other "just werx" printers.

>>2753484
No, it really is.
If for you the printer is a tool to use in other hobbies, that's okay. Everyone has their own tastes and preferences.
For a lot of people here 3D printing itself is a hobby. People genuinely like to learn how their machines work, try and make them better or even build new ones from scratch.
Because of this radically different approach to 3D printing, these 2 crowds prefer different printers.
The 3dp as a tool crowd aka makers prefer prusas and bambus, fairly well put together printers that work fine out of the box
3D printing hobbyists like whatever cheap chinkshit is flavor of the month because it gets them the most printer per $ and any issues can be fixed.

>>2753484
Okay then.
I can't recommend the latest Prusa because it's overpriced shit
I will instead recommend the Tronxy X5SA 500, which gets you an absolutely ridiculous 500mm^3 print volume. All for the low low price of a Prusa mk4.

Have been trying to fix this for a while today, filament won't stick to the bed or bond at all.
I've tried cleaning the bed, adding glue, upping nozzle temp, upping bed temp, slowing down the print speed at the first layer. Releveling the bed etc.
I have an elegoo neptune 3 max.
The filament is polymaker pla carbon black.
The settings I've changed from what prusa slicer starts off with is 10mm/s on the first layer.
220c nozzle temp on the first layer.
65c bed temp on the first layer.
215c on the other layers.
I am considering taking off the nozzle to check for clogging.
It's my first printer and i only got it up and running a couple of days ago.

>>2753535
Oh and i added 2mm retractions at 40mm/s on this latest attempt.

>>2753535
Looks like the gap may be too big. Try raising the bed a turn or so on each corner.

Do you guys sthink Bambushit will have theP1P Enclosure Kit in stock ever again? Been waiting for a while now.

>>2753396
With freecad's thickness tool it's easy to run into "brep_api command not done" which comes from opencascade. It might be easier to work around that with Cadquery: in freecad's part design unioning thicknesses takes many more clicks than to thickness the union. The union of Cadquery shells probably works right away, though it probably will leave gaps if the cross section is pic related.
Implicitcad is missing features https://groups.google.com/g/implicitcad/c/LzmJ0hOeLuI particularly to support assembly. The output stls have to be very big. Corners get rounded otherwise. Maybe that's a feature except if you're trying to fit fasteners into the part.

>>2750661
why am i having so much trouble finding an ender 3 v2 dual z synchronous belt drive kit? i remember seeing tons of them for sale a few years ago, now it's all dual stepper motor kits.

>>2753562
.. so, turns out that if you set the middle to the correct height first, followed by manual and then auto that the auto leveling kinda resets the middle of the bed so that you have to redo that part, or i have just been doing it incorrectly all along but somehow had no issues until now.

>>2753582

Why not this mod? https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3

>>2753600
not that anon, I have found some of my beds are 5mm higher in the middle, I assumed this was probably the 4 corners being too tight, after loosening them but still maintaining compression on the springs I got it down to 2mm different between the middle and the 4 corners. You could trying that, but YMMV

>>2753600
Take a map of the bed, paste a layer or two of elechicken tape on the low spots, repeat

>>2753611
>I have found some of my beds are 5mm higher in the middle
Nigga? Are you sure it's not 0.5mm? If your bed has a fucking two millimetre bump, let alone five, it's hammer time

>>2753613
>paste a layer or two of elechicken tape on the low spots
On the hotbed itself, under the removable sheet, of course

>>2753610
i've seen that and it looks really cool... but i don't feel like dicking around with it. i print infrequently and i'm getting tired of fucking around with z banding issues due to gantry sag and/or dust gathering on the screws. i want a fast and easy solution.

>>2752007
Use aluminum foil to make tabs on both sides of the battery box.

I am working on making the Anime Rifle sight from the game Phantom Forces a real thing.

Am new to 3d printing, bought my first first printer and a kg of filament just a couple days ago. Will unspooling the filament spool a bit (see pic) do any good?
It's a whole kilo after all, I'm afraid if it'll result in unnecessary wear on whatever is inside the extruder.

>>2753644
you don't need to unspool nor should you, to avoid potential snagging, and I've gone through several 1kg spools without a problem myself
plus if you are very worried about friction causing problems down the line, there are plenty of prints that uses ball bearings like this one: https://www.printables.com/model/77791-the-ultimate-spool-holder

>>2753629
Absolute madlad. Do keep us posted.
Something that would be nice: have the catgirl printable separate from the base, so you could do a color change and have her in dual color.

>>2753629
Somebody should revive >>>/k/hbg

>>2753665
No point anymore, it's a constant flood of autistic screaming over all things 3D printed on /k/, it can be hard to find the discussion between the streams of piss and vinegar. None more so than cries of "this thread glows," "just buy a lathe," and "you should build an FGC-9 because they're totally still relevant and gud and not because they're the only 3D printed gun I've ever heard of!" They never hit the bump limit and just melt away into the archive, /k/ hates guns the way /o/ hates cars.

I have a sunlu s2 dehydrator but I'm not very impressed by it. I just learned about eibos and their polyphemus. It still doesn't go above 70C (I think I recall 90C being ideal for PA6CF) but what are /3dpg/s thoughts on pic related? The weird mlp gen x whose review I watched seemed to indicate it is a pretty good product for 100ish dollars over DIYing my own dehydrator and trying to figure that out.

>>2753696
Just set your bed to whatever temp you want and let the filament however long you think it needs to dry out.

>>2753698
Many people report that this doesn't work that well and also printing from the filament dryer is very beneficial.

>>2753695
>and "you should build an FGC-9 because they're totally still relevant and gud and not because they're the only 3D printed gun I've ever heard of!
Do you know other good 3D printed ones tho? Not talking about revisions or derivatives like the stingray. Genuinely curious.

>>2753702
Not him, Orca.

>>2753582
I got this one from RoBoYun Store:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002194614748.html
I also got a 4-pack of M8 thrust ball bearings, 4 M8 wave spring washers, and a 4-pack of 8mm ID pulleys with grub screws, in order to mount the screws in such a way as to prevent axial load on the stepper motor. Also printed a custom 608 bearing block for the lower end of the second Z screw, I can post the STL later if you want. Get some 608 bearings too if you don't already have them.

Though belted Z really would be easier, at least if you have a bed level probe. My whole gantry feels a bit twisted since I have to force the thing to be flat via belts and pulleys. Maybe the tie rods I have aren't helping.

>>2753702
liberator lmao

>>2753702
The FGC is a AP-9, itself related directly to the MOD9, reworked to use no "gun" parts so Euros can build it.
MOD9, WTF9, Orca, the dozen or so Mac10 / Mac11 frames, scARpup, Plastikov, CETME 2077, 3DP90, Mono-Poly AR Receiver, Amigo Grande, the ARK and ARK2.0, all of the different 10/22 receivers as well as the Merlin, R597, and MMR22 if you're into 22LR, and of course the numerous frames for a wide variety of pistols. That's all without looking into the really fun stuff, like carbon-fiber receivers for Ruger's Standard / Mk pistols, printed mags and drum mags, the Gatlatl arrow gun, the wide variety of 37mm fireworks launchers, and Glocks with testicles.

The point of the FGC is using no gun parts, but if you're in the United States there's no incentive to build one when firearms components are unregulated, inexpensive, and readily available.

>>2753665
Done. My money is on the dog fucker shitting up the whole thread crying about anyone who prints a gun. If that doesn't happen, it hits the archive with <100 posts and <15 images.

>>2753616
>i want a fast and easy solution.

Source the parts the z sync belt then.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4539244

>>2753614
no 5mm this was with a digital dial indicator from harbor freight, all 4 corners are .03 difference and the middle is 1-2 mm higher I cant recall fully on that, this was done to my kp3s a year ago and first layers are also great no gaps between filament, no elephants foot.

>>2753696
I would diy one which passes the incoming cold air over some silica gel, and reverses flow to regenerate it. That way it won't have to be as hot for as long to get the same result.

>>2753701
Not that anon good to hear, I am wanting to try to print nylon pa6 I bought ikea 10.6l container found suitable spool holder for it, and using a reptil heating pad (5 watts) inside, not sure what temps need to be for bylon for just the heated box, but I have an air fryer to dry it.

Just need to garolite and a blank spring steel sheet and make a suitable flex sheet for nylon.

>>2753749
90 C for 48 hours is a recommended temp I have seen thrown around. I have also seen 70C for 48 hours prior to printing as well.

>>2753753
90C for the heated box? that sounds like dehydrating temperature.

>>2753749
>Not that anon
no one cares who you are or are not
go back

>>2753753
>prior to printing

Ah ignore my dumbass >>2753755

>>2753756
you cared enough to reply.

>>2753757
>:(

>>2753755
>>2753757
Yeah, 90 c for the heated box, specifically for PA6-CF. Here is the brony reviewing it. It's tough to figure out if half these reviews are legitimate as they seem to have gotten the products for free but he does at least mention some negatives that it can't fit smaller spools.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeffBHf_El8

>>2753763
>Yeah, 90 c for the heated box
I forgot to also mention, everyone's results may vary. Some guys claim 70C for 48 hours is fine like I mentioned above. presumably different environments will result in different drying times. I have a dehumidifier that I run during the summer and also the winter gets dry in my area so I may need to dry for less time.

>>2753713
Thanks for this post, didnt knew americans were eating this good when it comes to printed guns, now if you excuse me I have to go back in my euro cuckshed to drool all over these on youtube.

>but you can still print the FGC-9!
ammo doko...

>>2753535
>I've tried cleaing the bed
unironically how did you clean it?
ipa doesn't get rid of grease (from fingers etc.) you need to actually clean it with dish soap.
also z offset obviously but I assume you are watching the first layer so you would see that. Also try with other filament duh

>>2753788
You can't even buy ammo??

>>2753788
>ammo
some ppl 3d print that

>>2753794
My man, if this a legit question Ill bite, ammo is so heavily regulated in my country that they know by count where every single bullet goes and to whom. The regular neutered citizen ofcourse can't even dream of ever touching it, and if its even implied that you might have in your possession you bet the police will make a visit the next day.
No fucking way even if you work in the military. Unironically your only way to get some if you get a hunting loicence, comes with heavy regulations, and whatever ammo those guns use.

>>2753799
Interesting, the primer of the bullet is some spark plug in that one?

This keeps happening to me, print starts alright then just chops off?

>>2753805
your first problem is owning an ender 5. Probably best to sort that out first.
These problems are almost always a hotend clog. Usually the nozzle is not touching the PTFE tube and everything clogs. It doesn't really make sense in my head why this happens but taking the hotend apart and putting it back together properly usually fixes it.
tldr: buy a ratrig

Enjoy your evening :)

How's autoCAD for drawning parts?

>>2753805
my guess is that the heatbreak is not being cooled enough at the "cold side" of the extruder. check if the screw in the cooling block (that pushes the heatbreak against the cooling block) is still tight enough. in a previous thread, I also learned that thermal paste may help (OP's pic, middle right)

>>2753807
Lol yeah I've only found out after the fact that I'm a retard and bought a bad printer. Is it salvageable with upgrades if I don't mind doing the project work. Money not really a factor either way

>>2753657
>>2753629
I just finished it and posted it on Thingiverse. It should come up if you search for "Anime Rear Gun Sight".

How hard would it be to make something like this?
I'm pretty new to modeling

>>2753843
Go watch a Fusion360 tutorial and you'll find out

>>2753844
>Fusion360
Can I comm anyone to do it?

>>2753843
If you wanted to copy that exact design you can: Download Inkscape. Import that image. Use the trace Bitmap tool to automatically trace an outline. Save the result as an SVG. Use an online SVG to STL converter. Then you will have an STL of that shape.

>>2753846
Fusion is free. I'll even spoonfeed you a tutorial that will show you a way to copy that design easily

https://youtu.be/DfAfxae8aRc

>>2753839
so based. here's a (You).

>get a single dimension wrong
>12 more hours of printing

>prusa printers shilled as the perfect printer that work out of the box
>actually needs several upgrades before being actually reliable
really make me think

>>2753839
Lmao this looks like it would be awful to print.

Thought i finally get myself to PC wheels, yet ali surprised me once again. Does someone know the purpose of these v-v-wheels, besides being a whole gram lighter? And what the hell are stainless steel wheels? I can only imagine how they eat straight through any aluminium extrusion.

>>2753933
OpenBuilds OpenRail

>>2753935
>2017
I guess that one's on me, but i'll be damned if i had ever seen that in use anywhere before.

>>2753831
E5 is ((fine)). Had one as a first printer but quickly went down upgrade rabbit hole.

>>2753856
What upgrades do they need?
Are you speaking from experience or just guessing?

>>2753941
What upgrades did you do? I already have cable stress relief, bed level supports, etc

>>2750661
I started learning in fusion360 but obtained a premium copy of solidworks today.
How hard is the learning curve?

>>2753945
Microswiss hotend and DD extruder. Some shitty part cooling shroud from thingiverse that uses a larger blower.

>>2753947
Nice I put the microswiss hot end in today. DD Extruder any recommendations ? I assume the creality I see online is shit

I just got everything working today, after printing the benchy tugboat (not perfect but satisfactory) I got in Fusion 360 and made this plug thing which will hold my flash drive inside this metal keychain cylinder.

It took a lot of iterations to get the right dimensions for a friction fit between all three components. I wasn't able to get it perfect even after 8 tries, the friction is greater between the flash drive and the holder than between the holder and the cap, so pulling the flash drive out also pulls out the holder. I may secure it with adhesive instead of relying on the friction fit.
It seems I just can't get dimensionally consistent results with my printer. also, the inner corners where the flash drive slots in are always rounded, despite being sharp in the model. I'm not sure if this can even be fixed, but I had to increase the width to accommodate that slight narrowing (the flash drive has sharp corners).

>>2752145
lol

>>2753855
This is why you cut up your model in the slicer for testing critical dimensions.

>>2753971
I'm a bit confused by this question, considering you already got an MS hotend. If you have money, return the hotend and get a whole Micro Swiss NG, it'll shit precision and customer support down your neck. Also available as Revo, if you're into that. For a simple extruder on top, don't look further than an Orbiter2, it's been tried and tested.
>inb4 where's the Hemera
I shit you not, an NG is still cheaper.

>>2753856
Besides reprinting all parts, i think Prusas are rather best left alone as is..

>>2753843
Will probably be a logistical issue. I'd rather get a plate of desired material and hand saw it.

>>2753839
Bad print orientation, anon. I'd recommend splitting it in 2 pieces, the flat character piece, w/ some kind of method to retain it in a slot, and the pic rail mount w/ slot to retain the other piece. That way you can print each section in the most optimal orientation. (Flat piece parallel to bed, pic rail mount as is or angled.

>>2753831
Its a good basis, better than an E3, or the derivatives. Look into the Zero G conversion stuff, it can be done in 2 parts, bed or gantry.

Do any FDM multi-material composites make sense? PA and PLA stick together but it's pretty weak.

>>2754058
ABS W/ a PC core was tested by the Military. CNC kitchen did a video on it, but I feel like something was off about his execution. Theres room for experimentation in that area, I think.

Why is 3d printing a nozzle even? Why isn't it a mesh?
I think the industrial ones are a mesh right?

modding bed slinger = waste of time

>>2754098
Try using English and we may be able to help you.

>>2753984
Remember, structural complexity is free for FDM. Instead of relying on surface friction and sub-mm dimensional accuracy, use flexures to control holding force.
>>2754058
For practical parts that use multiple materials, use the same tricks as multi-shot co-injected parts: mechanically join them to. Dovetails, pins, etc, eliminate the flat shear plane and turn the inter-material bond from a purely inter-material joint to an intra-material joint.

What resolution do I need to not have very visible ugly "3D printed" layers?

>>2754143
a resin printer.

>>2754143
At 0.1 they're a lot less visible but any surface with a really shallow slope, like the roof of the boat, will always have that staircase effect to it.

>>2754144
>>2754145
That sucks also resin is a PITA what are some easy ways to smooth it out afterwards?

>>2754146
If you print your stuff in ABS then you can smooth it out with acetone vapors.
Otherwise regular sanding and/or some coats of paint. There's also some paint on resin stuff made specifically for 3D prints but I don't know much about it.

>>2754146
You literally posted your own answer. Wood filler is the most common option, combined with sanding.

>thingiverse stl was 404'd
>suddenly it is working again
???

>>2754215
Dunno which video, but a Ultimaker guy at SMRRF said they're still replacing old stuff. So that's likely what happened. Can't imagine taking over a project this comparatively massive, that wasn't touched in several years and no support from the old guys either.

>>2754012
You failed to mention his seams being set to 'random' instead of 'inline'. His mistake is amateur and your failure to pick up on the mistake screams that you too are an amateur. Please stop giving advice.

>>2754098
The industrial printers, assuming you mean SLS, use plastic powder and lasers to fuse the plastic into the correct shape. Either that or they use resin.
The reason we don't use mesh is because mesh has lots of different holes in it and you can't predict which hole the plastic will come out of. That's why we use one hole.

>>2754098
Professional nozzles look the same. Convention is usually best.

CHING CHONG PING PONG RAMA DAMA DING DONG

>>2754275
>Our customers are incapable of following directions
>A considerable portion have done such a poor job of following directions, they've compromised the safety of their machines
On the one hand, it's just the retarded end-users not being able to read and damaging their own machines. On the other hand, Bambu sold a printer that could be dangerously compromised if assembled by a retard. Surely they knew that most people are retarded, you can't feign ignorance and say "we thought the average individual could read" when we all know full well that's not the case.

Retired the CR-6SE for an X1C. The CR-6 isn't nearly as bad as its memed to be (printing a better fan duct and adding the cheapest dual-gear extruder available helped immensely), but it was never all that fast without a precipitous drop in quality.
Whilst a Ratrig or Voron were in vaguely the same price range, getting one of those would mean no automated material switching without a Palette (and spending over half as much as the printer again) or some janky hacked up garbage like the MMU, and more futzing about with manual calibration.

Plus, if I want to hack and go back to masochistic manual printing there's nothing to stop me from just diking out the mainboard and putting some standard hardware in there instead.

>>2754275
To be expected from a ch*nese brand but at least they're refunding.

today I tried resin printing for the first time
siraya tech blu nylon black, full uniformation combo
the print itself went well
but bros how do you COPE WITH THE SMELL
my whole body itches
can't tell if it's an allergy reaction or placebo
I have 0 reaction to normal chemicals
I primer/paint/clearcoat car parts at least once a month for friends etc
Never have I ever experienced this
Is this normal?
Am I dying?

>>2754303
Yes, instead of a ratrig you go with a 6 year out of date chinese knockoff.
Golly jee, what a good decision that was.... I bed you use your 3d printer for printing baby yoda heads. No engineer would ever choose substandard shit over an idex ratrig or ratrig with MMU

>>2754363
Let's check out some MSDS sheets and manufacturers recommendations:
>H315 Causes skin irritation
>H317 May cause an allergic skin reaction.
>H320 Causes eye irritation.
>P333+P313 If skin irritation or rash occurs: Seek medical attention
>P337+P313 If eye irritation persists: Seek medical attention
>Inhalation: Remove to fresh air, seek medical attention
>Skin contact: Wash with plenty of soap and water, seek medical attention
>Avoid contact
>Use with adequate ventilation
>Store in a cool (29-90°F/-1.7-32.2°C), well ventilated location
>Short-term exposure to fumes can result in dizziness, headaches, and throat irritation.
>Uncured liquid resin can irritate bare skin and can cause a rash called contact dermatitis.
>Long term exposure can increase sensitivity and increase the severity of reaction.
>Long-term risks may include menstrual problems, altered sexual behavior or fertility, and damage to unborn children during pregnancy.
>contact with resin [...] the effects aren’t immediate
>liquid UV resin easily penetrates through the skin
>headaches and some respiratory problems, including swelling airways, trouble breathing, as well as pain and irritation in your airways.
>Your eyes could also be affected by vapors resulting in them being watery, puffy, and you could also experience a burning sensation.
>pimples, wheals, redness, pain, burning or itching sensations, and overall extensive inflammatory reactions.
>The damage from repeated exposure to UV resin is irreversible, and your skin and body will forever be sensitive to the substance

Use your resin printer responsibly, wear gloves, wear goggles, wear a respirator, work in a well-ventilated environment.
I mean, you did wear gloves, eye protection, and a respirator all while working in a well-ventilated environment, right?
Allergic responses to resin develop slowly over time, each successive exposure is a little worse than the last. If you hate it now, you'll really hate it a year from now.

>>2754363
It is normal, that's why you need a fume hood and proper PPE. Look into it because resin is nasty stuff. Carbon filters aren't enough

>>2754368
some you elitists are autistic as fuck

>>2754368
>triggered ratfucker
Noice. Now lets see how many pearls the voron cultists can clutch.

>>2754143
Get into non-planar printing

>>2754375
>>2754387
fling all the insults you like.
I've got the better printer :-)

>>2754403
>"I spent more, so it's better!"
It's terminal.

>>2754387
i like my voron, but >>2754303 is right to just go for the easier machine, making and configuring a mmu or carrot patch is a hassle, and if you dont mind working in a closed ecosystem a bambuu printer is fine.

pretty impressed by this, i still dont fully trust my printer, ender 3 v2, 150 mm/s 3500 accel 0.2 layer
god of war axe part

batman cat cowl for my sisters cat, think i used crealitys custom profile for this 0.25 height and 160 mm/s

>>2754421
>batman cat cowl for my sisters cat
i want to see this in action

>>2754432
they didnt put it on him yet as there were still too many burrs on the printed part that i couldnt be bothered to remove myself

>>2754403
>1700 dollarydoos and it's not even enclosed

>>2754403
*unsheathes 600mm^3*
Your move, bitch.

>>2754363
You're not dying, you're just having a reaction, you must have developed a sensitivity for one of the chemicals in it. If you're smelling it, then clearly you aren't wearing a respirator; that's just you being stupid. Wear PPE.

>>2754441
>tronxy
>a frame that would warp in a gentle breeze
Stop, you're embarrassing yourself.

>>2750661
How much is a used Creality with a larger bed worth? I think it might be an older Ender 3 Max. One of my classmates is selling his 3d printer. He says he has barely used it and he just does not want it taking up space in his apartment any more.

>>2754440
Wait till you learn one gotta source any enclosure from third parties as well. In current year ratrig still hasn't figured out how to buy a simple router.

>>2754435
Cute kots.

>>2753358
>screw wobbling
I didn't get the tall prints, sorry! I printed something else but it was short and couldn't have been useful for observing the wobble. I did get the oldham coupling in the mail today and installed it and 710'd it, so let's see how polished is this turd now!

>>2754484
Of course I had to forget the attachment

>>2754468
~$75-$100USD

>>2754468
My coworker is trying to sell one for like $250
I think he's being silly

>>2754477
>router
CO2 laser is faster and cheaper

>>2754143
Prints should not look like that even at the normal .2mm layer height, there's some fairly severe z wobble/banding going on there which is a separate problem that you (probably) won't see to that extent on something you print yourself, but if you do, that's something you gotta troubleshoot and solve; if you're lucky it'll just be a matter of properly tightening some screws, if you're unlucky you might have a bent part that has to be replaced.

>>2754143
You're gonna wanna pause the print before starting the roof and slip a piece of shim stock underneath one side to lift it up and finish the roof. You may need to edit the g&m code at the printer

One of you should 3d print out some arcade stick cases which will fit a Sega arcade panel.
It would sell out really quickly.

are some people just made out of money that they can swap out there printer everytime a new one comes out?
well, then again, many people who make minimum wage get a new phone every year

>>2754612
Swapping a bottom-end 3d printer each year is definitely cheaper than doing so with a flagship phone. Turns out, spending a superfluous thousand dollars in a year isn't that big of an impact, even for a minwagie above like 20 hours a week. Below that they're probably all on the benefit anyhow.

>>2754645
my dad is ultra frugal so I was raised to be somewhat like that, its completely alien to me that people buy new products when there current one is completely capable and needs no reason to be replaced, ive seen people on reddit who upgrade their GPU every year, what the fuck.
I kept my previous phone for maybe 6-7 years, both me and my dad drive 21 year old cars and fix it ourselves to give you an idea

>>2754646
noone cares m8

>>2754501
>CO2 laser is faster and cheaper
Same thing here. They don't have either.

>>2754485
That looks gross. Sure your screw isn't bend and nothing misaligned to begin with?

>>2754646
Embrace it. Gf treats my fixing as some kind of sustainability.

>>2754646
Based.
I use the same phone for a whole decade by now.

Once you've got a printer all dialed in, what calibration prints do y'all like using when you're learning settings for a new filament?

>>2754692
I just yolo it.

>>2754612
They might get a good price for the old one.

>>2754692
Whatever I need printed.
It is possible to diagnose print issues from any print, not just fag boats and xyz cubes.

>>2754692
>new filaments
I simply don't. Buying the same filament from the same seller since rona with the same profiles. Your mileage may vary with cheap chinese brands.

>>2754594
>It would sell out really quickly.
where would you suggest is the best place to sell them? etsy?

>>2754734
>>2754594
3D printing would be a terrible idea for something like that. Something clear and laser-cut with a decal adhered to the back, or a sticker on top with some protective coating, is the way to go. Much better surface finish, and better rigidity.

>>2754441
That extruder is pathetic. At least on the western printers the entire thing works unlike the chinese shit where they max out only one property and end up with a useless machine.
- PSU is pathetic
- Extruder is pathetic & will take weeks to print something of decent size
- Bed cannot be properly levelled
- Z wobble will be abysmal
- No visible driver boards so they're certainly shit and slow
- NOT EVEN COREXY. YOU CAN SEE THE STEPPER ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE GANTRY AHAHAHAHAHAHAH
- Not networked
- Aluminium extrusions are not big enough

Chinese shit once again AND YOU PAY £1500 FOR THE THING. AHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHA
I HOPE YOU DIDN'T BUY THIS

>>2754762
>NOT EVEN COREXY
CoreXY is shit at this size, anon. Nobody makes CoreXY machines this big except the really, really retarded chinks. All the speed boat records are set with tiny baby bitch CoreXY printers. Big machines, frankly anything this size shouldn't be using belts at all, this piece of shit as a CoreXY would have >6m of belt flopping around.

>>2754692
A new filement is generally only a temperature, speed and extrusion multiplier tune.
So print a flat sheet and see if you're over/under extruding then do a temp tower and a speed print.
If you're printing baby yodas then you don't need to do calibration prints. Only if you really care about printing correctly should you bother. Between different colours of the same material you can generally leave the settings the same.

>>2754766
my ratrig vcore 3.1 500mm is corexy. it moves faster than your bambu x1
It has 6 metres of belt and there's this funny little thing called BELT TENSION which stops it flopping around.

>>2754762
>Not networked
This is a plus in this day and age.
Most networked printers on the market seem to be loaded with proprietary software so you have no idea what data they're giving away and to who.

>>2754770
The RatRig is well thought out and uses good 9mm belts. It's really not comparable to a heap of shit TronXY with no rigidity and fuck-huge generic GT2 belts. More importantly, it shouldn't have 6m of belt, they only send you 5.8m in the kit :)

Where is it, 3dpg bros? I want my maglev printer!

>>2754775
>MagXY

>>2754774
>no rigidity
Bold claim for someone who shills a printer that is held together with printed parts.

>>2754777
The frame is entirely metal you retard.
It's 30mm extrusions with METAL angle brackets.
Only the bed mounts are 3d printed. The motor mounts are metal with plastic pieces on top to hold some low tolerance pulley idlers.
In this case you literally do not know what you're saying and could prove yourself wrong by spending 5 minutes looking at the ratrig CAD.
Go to this link and click the "without enclosure" link and the full CAD for the ratrig vcore 3.1 will open in your browser and YOU CAN SEE FOR YOURSELF.
https://docs.ratrig.com/v-core-3-1/v-core-bom
God I hate retards

>>2754777
I haven't shilled anything, I'm shitting on all oversized CoreXY printers. I'm the guy who tells people to buy Stratasys Objet printers.

>>2754777
I could beat a TronXY printer to death with a RatRig while the RatRig is printing and the Benchy would still turn out fine.

>finally move up from tinkercard
>try autodesk fusion
>"wow this wasn't so bad, let's export my test project to .stl for the slicer"
>shit gets sent to their (((cloud))) for processing instead of just being converted on my computer
WHY
Granted, I just switched to .3mf and it converts offline normally but still, fucking why.

>>2754797
Fusion is meant to run on a shitty thin-clients in a corporate environment. They offload whatever they can. Much of what gets offloaded doesn't have to be, you can throw it in Offline mode if you want without losing much in the way of features. Unless you've actually paid for the fanciness, in which case many of your paid features are strictly cloud-based.

Blender is a fucking miracle and I'm so glad that it exists. FreeCAD is a disgusting horror-show layered in trash that's finally passing milestones many of us thought were "around the corner" a decade ago. This meeting is a major step towards accessible not-shit opensource parametric modeling and it makes me excited for what's to come.

I can't imagine the smell.

>>2754594
The amount of time and effort needed to make something like that will cost so much no one will buy it

And like another poster said 3d printing is probably not a good way to manufacture that. I have been tempted to make my own snackbox rip off using my 3d printer and ordering some PCB's etc online but the investment money wise is too high and I can only realistically sell to the UK

>>2754800
What about Ondsel ES?

>>2754803
>Ondsel ES
It's a FreeCAD add-on. That there is a place and need for it at all is evidence of the deeply rooted problems with FreeCAD.

>>2754800
>be random literally who chinese guy
>fix TNP
>greatly improve UI
>propose commit
>on hold for years because maintainers can't understand it and need guidance through every line of code
So what "meeting" happened this time to excuse that kindergarten?

>>2754815
The FreeCAD devs have now gone directly to Blender and sat down with them to say "we don't know what we're doing, but you do." That's why I'm encouraged.

>>2754435
Not that I ever did but if I made something for a cat I'd use photogrammetry to get a 3D model of its head first. Take a few photos, drop them into Metashape, BAM.