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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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2621160 No.2621160 [Reply] [Original]

So, what are our little tailors and seamstresses up to tonight?

What is everyone making?

Comfy sewing thread go!

>> No.2621494

>>2621160
Got a whole bunch of medium weight jersey I've been meaning to make some comfy leisure shorts out of but I can't bring myself to want to deal with the wrinkly as fuck super thin tissue paper pattern.

>> No.2621563

>>2621494
do it!
If this thread is still up when you do it, post results

>> No.2621795

I lost some weight, so I'm going to take my suits to the tailor to get altered

>> No.2621807

Why id camo fabric so expensive? Need to get started on my helmet cover project

>> No.2621808

>>2621807
Check with Joanns and check their coupons. They almost always have like 40%

>> No.2621824

>>2621807
If you have an army surplus place near you, try there. They sometimes have rolls of camo fabricn usually cheaper than joanns

>> No.2621832

>>2621824
stack dem coupins

>> No.2622083

>>2621807
>camo fabric
>helmet cover project
Go to Good Will. There's gotta be some BDU pants or shirt there. Gonna be cheaper than fabric, already be broken in, and you'll stop some asshole from stealing honor.

>> No.2622118

I have a canvas (or some other kinda heavy fabric idk) backpack and I want to put some form of back support in it, since I couldn't find anything that wouldn't cost a kidney. What would be the easiest way to go about it?
I was thinking making a frame of some light metal rods.

>> No.2622136

>>2622118
What are you using the bag for? I'd recommend just getting an external pack frame if it doesn't need to be light or nice looking.

>> No.2622250
File: 46 KB, 1346x723, backpack.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2622250

>>2622136
I basically take it everywhere i go, but the main use is at college with a notebook, sometimes a laptop, and a lot of miscellaneous crap that folds the bottom and keeps jumping up and down. There are internal divisions, so an external frame that covers the bottom is my main focus, but if i'm already doing one why not just do both. All the external frames I found were either expensive (third world poor here) to the point that i could get a bag that solves this problem or is too big.

thinking something like this and the rods stitched to it or pvc panels, whichever is easier.

>> No.2622322

>>2622083
>>2621832
>>2621824
>>2621808
Good ideas thanks

>> No.2622325

>>2622250
Plastic or foamular boards can be had for cheap. Easy to work with too.

>> No.2622392
File: 997 KB, 3120x4160, IMG_20230519_093815_9.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2622392

>>2621160
this year i#ve done 2 complete rennaissance outfits completely by hand
my fingers were literaly bleeding at the end from the thread slowly shaving away my skin

>> No.2622399

>>2622250
I wouldn’t go with rods, they might start to hurt after a while. But if you take some foam and sew fabric around it tightly, you can get a pretty strong frame without using fully rigid parts.

If you put a frame like in your pic, you won’t be able to stuff it into a tight space anymore. I have an Osprey backpack and they use a kind of curved tent pole to keep it in shape and upright, that could be an idea

>> No.2622405

>>2622250
Maybe make a PVC pipe frame? Alternatively get fiberglass road markers and bend them to shape. Look up bushcraft pack frames and take inspiration from that.

>> No.2622411

>>2622392
Nice job, doing it by hand gives you extra street cred you know.


General supply question: Looking to get a rotary cutter and self healing mat, what's better for general purpose use, a 60mm or 45mm blade?

>> No.2622449

>>2622411
For most cutting jobs, where you're cutting single or double layer fabric, the 45mm is fine. Like if you're making clothes. The 45mm is a little more maneuverable for small curves like necklines and armscyes. If you're a quilter and cutting multiple stacks of fabric for strip quilts, the 60mm is better. If you work with heavier fabrics like denim, canvas, or upholstery fabrics, go with the 60mm. I have both, for different fabrics.

>> No.2622454

>>2622392
Get a thimble and leather fingertip grips. A pair of locking hemostats is great for helping pull a needle thru difficult or thick fabrics. If you're having to fight each stitch, you're probably using the wrong needle and/or the wrong thread for the job. Needles are cheap enough that you should toss the dull ones. Typically after about 8 hrs of sewing, you switch to a new needle.

>> No.2622645
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2622645

Not sure if this is the right place to post but I'm not sure where else it would go.

I'd like to make a wool beanie sorta like pic related with different camouflage patterns
>Multicam and its variants
>Woodland
>etc
I'm not sure where to start since I have no experience sewing or doing anything like this, I tried looking up sources for camouflage wool but I can't even find that.
I'd like the wool to feel fluffy and not like a synthetic wrap is on top.

>> No.2622649

>>2622645
For things like this, if you have a beanie already, the best thing to do is trace is on some paper and then use that pattern to make your cuts on your material. Sounds like you want it a bit dark, I suggest buying some basic chalk as well for this.

>> No.2622652

>>2622649
Thanks, I thought about that.
I'm wondering how to apply a camouflage pattern to wool though, if I have to dye it or if there's anyway to source wool in a pattern.
I want to go with merino wool.

>> No.2622656

>>2622652
Just stack it. Have the wool inside of it and then sew it together, make sure to sew it inside out and then pull, sometimes you have to hand stitch that last part

>> No.2622658

>>2622656
I see what you mean, not sure if it would come out like >>2622645 though

>> No.2622824

>>2622325
>>2622399
>>2622405
I appreciate the sugestions, thanks

>> No.2622904

>>2622652
Normally you’d silk screen press it, or you buy camo fleece, or sacrifice a wool camo scarf. Not sure if you can find them in multicam tho since it’s not really a suitable pattern for wool

>> No.2623024

>>2622904
>Not sure if you can find them in multicam tho since it’s not really a suitable pattern for wool
How come?
But yeah you're probably right, I've checked several times and it doesn't seem like anyone carries multicam wool fabrics

>> No.2623120

>>2623024
> How come?
Nevermind I was confused with UCP. UCP uses these pixelated blocks that would look blurry on wool because of its long and thick fiber

>> No.2624221
File: 133 KB, 600x600, ZsaZsa-Yellow_f3b4f92d-ff02-447f-a283-8e9debbf5ea1_600x.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2624221

Any tips for working with sequinned fabrics?

>> No.2624230

>>2624221
I've legit heard it's a pain in the ass.

>> No.2624718

>>2624230
Thanks Anon. I guess.

>> No.2625118

What’s a good way to make a cylinder ie attach a round bottom to a ‘tube’ of the same fabric? I know to cut the round bottom plus seam allowance and then attach it inside out to the cylindrical part but should I cut triangular notches in the bottom to prevent it from bulking up and won’t that leave me with tiny gaps once I turn it right side out

>> No.2625131

>>2625118
Here's the basic idea:
https://www.funkyfriendsfactory.com/blog/put-your-best-foot-forward-how-to-sew-perfect-plushie-feet/
Sew first, notch afterwards. You can also baste after pinning, then sew, if the pins bother you.
Just make sure you do the math to get the circumference of the cylinder bottom piece to match the circumference of the cylinder correctly. The seamlines must be the same length to avoid puckers.
t. plushiemaker

>> No.2625277

>>2625131
Thanks anon this is exactly what I was looking for

>> No.2625369
File: 121 KB, 768x576, Omar the camel.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2625369

>>2625277
NP. If you're using the classic 5/8" seam allowance, it works better if you trim it down to 1/4" first and mark you seamlines on both pieces, for more accurate pinning and sewing.

>> No.2625451

>>2625369
But is he a good boy?

>> No.2625475
File: 459 KB, 1238x1286, Camel and muslins.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2625475

>>2625451
He is a very good boy, and refrains from boomerish Hump Day postings at his new home.

>> No.2625532

>>2625369
>>2625475
Nice. Gotta love camels.

>> No.2625882
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2625882

I'm brand new to sewing and I'm making some curtains.

When I try to sew a hem, the foot of the machine drags on the top piece of fabric, and the machine pushes the bottom bit of fabric forward from the bottom, so after a couple of feet the fabric gets misaligned.
It's straight when I pin it, but as it goes through the machine it gets pushed, and the part that's folded over ends up at an angle.

How do I keep the folded part aligned while sewing it?

>> No.2625886

>>2625882
This happens sometimes when your fold isn't completely on grain--either crossgrain, or straight grain. It can also happen if you're trying to push/pull the fabric through, instead of letting the feed dogs move the fabric. Couple of things to try--press the folded up hem, and pin very closely, with the pins perpendicular to the seamline. Pull the pins just as they come under the presser foot. Or you can live dangerously and just sew over them. Not recommended, but doable. Check your machine's manual and see if you can adjust the pressure of the feed dogs. If you can, lower the pressure ever so slightly. If the fabric you're sewing is very light weight, like sheers, you'll find this is a common issue. Sew very slowly, letting the feed dogs do the work of moving the fabric, and just be diligent in aligning the fabric, and not pushing/pulling it. Pressing the fold(s) in place and careful pinning will usually take care of this torque issue, as well as being sure that fold(s) are actually on grain, instead of at a slight angle.

>> No.2625889

>>2625882
for starters, you need to iron it.
2. pin it really good but leave like 2 or 3 inches of space.

>> No.2625891
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2625891

>>2625886
>>2625889
Thanks so much for the tips!
I'll give these things a try.
I really appreciate it.

>> No.2625896
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2625896

>>2625891

>> No.2626073

Another beginner here. I can’t seem to get around tie-off / lock stitches. Some say tie the loose threads together with a hand needle, but that makes the knot stick out. Other sources tell me to sew over the first and last 4-5 stitches in the opposite direction and just cut the threads off. Others say just sew the ends two times in the same direction. What’s a foolproof way to do it?

>> No.2626075
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2626075

I am going to use the robert powers technique to jazz up some dress shirts

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83gClh8Uq_E&ab_channel=RobertPowers

>> No.2626079
File: 33 KB, 500x322, backlockstitch1-56b70a1d3df78c0b135d5bc3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2626079

>>2626073
It depends on how delicate the fabric is. For silks, lightweight stuff like batiste or chiffon, I leave long tails when I cut the thread after sewing, then use a needle to pass one thread to the backside and tie the two threads in a knot by hand. Then trim the tails.
For heavier fabric--cottons, denim, wool, etc.--I sew to the end of the seam, and use the reverse lever to stitch forward 2-3 stitches, then sew regular back over the reverse stitches. That locks them at the end of the seam, and you can trim them even with the fabric surface.
Some machines have a lockstitch, where the needle basically stitches a few times up and down in the same spot, locking the stitches. I personally don't like the way that looks so I don't do that.
You can always hand knot, but not always backstitch.

>> No.2626080

>>2626079
If this photo says anything it looks like the tension isn't high enough

>> No.2626087
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2626087

>>2626075
I got about 5 minutes in and couldn't watch anymore. He didn't preshrink the fabric, so it's going to shrink and wrinkle the first time it's washed. He cut it on the lengthwise grain, so the shrinkage will be maximized. He ironed the folds instead of pressing--on a filthy ironing board!--so the fabric is stretched. He cut the collar stand strip as a straight piece, when collarstands are almost always curved. I'm out.

>> No.2626088

>>2626080
Picrel is to illustrate lockstitch vs backstitch. So who cares if the tension is off on the rest? You missed the point.

>> No.2626099

>>2621494
Jus iron it with a dry iron. 5 minutes, your done.

>> No.2626115
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2626115

>>2626087
You think thats bad, you should see him work on shoes!
I only watch his content because he is a clone from the future and its interesting to see what humans will someday become

>> No.2626223

>>2626079
Thanks a lot this thread is cool

> That locks them at the end of the seam
I guess I still fail to understand _how_ the back stitch locks them, but if you’re saying that it just does I’ll go with it.

>> No.2626304
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2626304

>>2626223
You're basically sewing repeated stitches of the same length in the same spot on top of each other, jamming the threads in the same holes. The top and bobbin threads lock together repeatedly on the fabric, on top of each other, making the end less likely to work its way loose.

>> No.2626448
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2626448

got some sheepskins
any tips on doing a vest?
I want the wool on the inside because it seems retarded to leave it on the outside but my problem is that the back of the skins are very ugly, with holes and such, so I was thinking about sewing another layer of something on top, but I can't find any tips or info about this
I've never sew anything before but I'm not retarded
what material could I use as outer layer? I want something natural but at least a little bit waterproof
is sewing an outer layer the same as sewing a lining inside?

>> No.2626450
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2626450

>>2626448
something like this for example

>> No.2626477

>>2626448
>is sewing an outer layer the same as sewing a lining inside?
Yeah basically. Find a vest pattern you like. Cut the skins acvordung to the pattern. Cut the outer layer according to the pattern. Assemble the lining pieces (skins). Assemble the outer layer. Join the two units together either by wrapping the edges, like in your second picrel, with a binding, or by laying them wrong sides together, sewing all edges except the armholes, flipping it all rightside out, then binding the armholes.
Given the weight of the skinsn go with a heavier fabric for the outside layer, like denim, twill, wool coating. Spray with water repelling.

>> No.2626482

>>2626448
Just use whatever fabric you like on the outside, or a light garment weight leather. I used to have a couplke of jackets with fake lambs wool on the inside, and cotton ripstop on the outside, they were comfy but a proper lambskin would have been nicer of course.

Something like the cotton ripstop you could use a waterproofing additive on, or you could buy like some waxed canvas or something to use.

>> No.2626484

>>2626450
Looks super cozy

GYPSY GTFO

>> No.2626559

>>2622904
>silk screen press
How does this work for camouflage? How do you actually get the specific pattern you want? I looked at this guys video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQdyzph0E8E

>> No.2626570

>>2626482
Cotton ripstop is a good weight, and the reinforcing threads make it durable. Lighter weight cottons will eventually abrade on the thicker seams and fray.

>> No.2626794

>>2626477
>>2626482
>>2626570
thanks guys
I have a few months until winter so I'll go little by little

>> No.2626868
File: 122 KB, 569x396, 1678238408900736.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2626868

I want to make a Kosovorotka and the pants
How hard would it be?
I can't find sewing patterns and I've never made anything before
I want to be able to wear it whilst gardening, how do I make sure it's sturdy?

>> No.2627323

>>2625475
whats the purpose of those incomplete camels? Are they for sizing/measuring purposes? Or is it more of a shell that gets changed throughout the project process?

>> No.2627504
File: 81 KB, 1000x665, how_to_make_a_toile_or_muslin_16.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2627504

>>2627323
They're tests in muslin of the pattern I drafted. You can see how they're marked up, and how the chest area is split open to correct the neck curve. Minky's fairly expensive, so I test out new patterns in cheap muslin, make and mark corrections to the pattern draft, and do the final plush in Minky. Same as I do when making clothes--pattrrn test in muslin and make corrections before cutting into the fashion fabric. It's a standard practice in the industry. The clothes muslin test is called a toile.

>> No.2627620

>>2621160
After seeing some guy's chair project in another thread I'm now looking into making a cheap linen bunk bed for the summer. What kind of seams and upholstery should I look into to prevent my bunk bed from turning into a hammock?

>> No.2627621

Some places near me go on clearance often and shirts go for 1$. How viable is it to learn to fix length, torso and arm width?

>> No.2627976
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2627976

>>2627504
neat, learned something new about the materials. makes sense, good practice to prototype before you use actual/good material to make the final one. standard practice in other creative disciplines. thanks anone

>> No.2628071
File: 1.23 MB, 1800x1350, final and tests.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2628071

>>2627976
It may seems like doing twice (or more!) the amout of work initially, but it saves money in the long run to make and correct patterning mistakes with cheap fabric, than to keep buying the fashion fabric.
>incomplete camels
the two muslin plush test camels are all full-sized and stuffed. I just unstuff them and toss the fails/tests when I'm done.

>> No.2628440
File: 734 KB, 1080x1359, Screenshot_20230607-072822_Gallery.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2628440

Why does my serger keep doing this (bobbin thread looping into the fabric) do I just need to fuck with the tension and shit

>> No.2628505

Where do I buy extra wide fabric for making large curtain panels?

>> No.2628524

>>2628505
You looking for 120" wide? Search for extra wide drapery fabric. Lots of places that carry upholstery fabric also carry drapery fabrics. Dozens of online stores out there. Places like Joanns usually only have the standard 54" stuff. You can also sew together 54" panels to make a larger curtain.

>> No.2628528

>>2628440
Bobbin thread nesting usually indicates there's a problem with the top thread. Check that the bobbin thread is feeding off the spool in the correct direction first and that yhere are no small threads and lint in the bobbin case housing. Then check that the top thread is threaded correctly and is correctly positioned between the tension discs. Then try a new needle. You should replace the needle after 8 hrs of sewing or with each new project. Small burrs on the needle will cause snagging.

>> No.2628628

>>2628440
FUCK I've had this problem dude, it fucking sucks. I had to get it repaired professionally. Got hardcore stuck.

>> No.2628801

I acquired some unidentified fabric that shimmers with a slight green iridescence- i think it's shitty polyester, but I'm going to make a jacket out of it.
I'll get at least the body of the jacket made up tomorrow, and I'll consider what I have to make the lining from afterwards.

>> No.2628884

>>2628071
so what happens if you make a mistake on the muslin/test version like mid-way through the process? do you stich on additional shit or remake a certain section from scratch? cool experience btw.

>> No.2628886

bunch of homos in this thread

>> No.2628930
File: 1.62 MB, 1950x1463, pattern corrections.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2628930

>>2628884
I usually sew the entire thing--be it a plush test or a garment test muslin--and make corrections on the actual test, pinning out areas that are too big, or slash and spread areas that are too small, and adding muslin into the too small areas. Muslin's great because you can write directly on it. After making and marking the corrections needed,for a plush, I measure the changes and transfer those to the paper pattern, then redraw the pattern with the corrections and do a second test muslin. For garments, I'll take the whole thing apart, iron the muslin, and use that to redraw the paper pattern. In picrel, the pink marking are corrections to the paper pattern made from pinning and drawing on the muslin. I'll redraw the pattern based on those marks and measurements. For plushes, I'll usually retest that corrected pattern in muslin, if it's a lot, or in cheap faux-Minky, because you usually need to assess how the fabric stretch affects the overall design.

>> No.2628932
File: 3.14 MB, 4608x3456, pattern tests bp.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2628932

>>2628884
Here's the muslin, and two tests in Minky for a Bury Pink, for an /s4s/ anon

>> No.2628935
File: 3.13 MB, 4113x3260, Berry Pinks 360.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2628935

>>2628884
Here's the finished plushes from the tests. It takes some time to work through the drafting and testing process, but generally yields good results, rather than guessing what needs fixing.

>> No.2628949
File: 1.53 MB, 150x150, 1675376914855171.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2628949

>>2628935
>>2628932
>>2628930
neat, thanks for sharing anon..

>> No.2629019

>>2628886
we enjoy something you don't.
cool bro.
Even if we were gay, why does that matter to you?
at least we can get laid faster than you.

>> No.2630026

>>2621160
right now my machines are resting did a bigass kigurumi for a client last week that still needs a a few accessories made but the thing itself is complete rn.
I've been trying to do plushies but I cant find a good sewing pattern template to do them

>> No.2630065

>>2630026
Look on pinterest. Lots of free and "free" (illegally distributed) patterns. Etsy has many patterns for purchase. Deviant art also has free patterns.

>> No.2630087

>>2630026

what this dude said, >>2630065 but change it up ever so slightly so when someone tries to claim it say, "I made it different and it's my own design" and people can't do shit!

>> No.2631505

>>2626868
Looks like a basic tunic, just the neck hole is loose and buttons or ties or toggles to the side. Pants essentially baggy-ish pajama pants type thing. Embroider or embellish with card woven trim. Check out SCA resources, you can probably find info about something close enough.

>> No.2631726

Wondering something, how do you guys like to have your pins in your fabric when you are sewing? right side up or upside down?

>> No.2631772

>>2631726
Always on the top layer of fabric, and perpendicular to the seamline. Pins on the underside of the fabric can snag on the feed dogs and fuck up the timing, needle, and get jammed into the bobbin case.

>> No.2632063
File: 3 KB, 224x224, download (5).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2632063

>>2631772
>perpendicular to the seamline
This. If you're right-handed, put the pin heads on the right in the seam allowance, so you can pull them out easier. If you're left-handed, heads go on the left. If pinning on the seamline, pin heads are towards, with the points towards the machine, so you can pull them before you get to the needle.

>> No.2632078

>>2632063
>>2631772
I commonly have it go sticking out towards my machine, works well for me. I rarely have issues.

yall ever use clips?

>> No.2632085

>>2632078
>yall ever use clips
Only when sewing leather or vinyl.

>> No.2634041

This is also a comfy thread

>> No.2634056

I would taylor swift

>> No.2634063

>>2634041
:3

>> No.2634069

>>2626794
Do you need a special sewing machine for that? Unique item, what else have you made?

>> No.2634113

Anyone got a good exploded-view/parts guide for a singer 127? I've got some screws that I'm not completely sure where they go

>> No.2634133

>>2634113
If you google "singer 127 adjusters manual" a bunch of pdfs come up. That might help

>> No.2635390
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2635390

>>2634069
>Do you need a special sewing machine for that?
I've watched basically every video I could find about it and most of them use normal (industrial tho) sewing machines, for example: https://youtu.be/EJx6VthqUVY
a few use fur sewing machines like pic rel
>what else have you made?
as of clothing, nothing really, as I said in my first post
I just happened to have access to some sheep, learned to flesh and tan the skins and now I'm looking forward to do something with them
I've never even used a sewing machine before... got a vintage one from a friend which hasn't been used for at least 30 years
I'm restoring it right now and it looks great so far, but I'm going slowly

>> No.2635619

>>2635390
TILT there are specialty machines for fur. Had to go watch some videos. So interesting that the needle moves horizontally instead of vertically, to allow for brushing the fur down away from the seam.

>> No.2635686

I’m jealous of real sewingfags. I need to get a machine. I can fix torn seams decently, and roughly fix random tears for outdoor wear, but I’m jealous of these fags who are like, “yeah, I have a good bolt of fabric, let me make some shorts out of it” lol

>> No.2635839

>>2635686
It's a skill set anyone can acquire. You just have to put in the time. Take classes at a sewing store or community college, buy some books, watch videos, etc. There's a learning curve for sure, but you can be a real sewfag if you want to.

>> No.2636247

how do you do that 'suturing' at the end of the fabric that prevents it from fraying

>> No.2636267
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2636267

>>2636247
An overlock stitch you mean? You usually do it with a serger, but a zig-zag stitch on a normal machine could also do the trick. And of course, you can always do it by hand but you'll need a lot of time and patience.

>> No.2636458
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2636458

Sewing newfag here. I've made a few simple things so far, really enjoying it and would like to keep learning. Could you guys comment on what you'd consider to be a cheap price for a yard of basic bitch cotton? Like fabric I could buy to just screw around with, test patterns on, etc. I have no experience buying fabric so I'm not sure what would be a rip-off.

The lowest I've seen so far was something like $6 or $7 at chain store (leaf dollars)

>> No.2636470

>>2636458
Unbleached muslin is the standard for pattern testing. Some people use old sheets they get at the thrift store. Muslin, depending on width, runs $2-$6ish, USD.

>> No.2636839

is pattern paper important
can't you just draw the patter on the fabric and cut it
its not like you can figure out the measurement or cutting mistakes until you wear it

>> No.2636927

>>2636458
I get mine at the multi cultural market of whatever it’s called, $2/meter isn’t uncommon for some cheap stuff, I just get a few meters of whatever in different colors

>>2636267
Not that anon, but is there often a commob reason to do this over a double hem? My machine can’t zig zag

>> No.2636970

>>2624221
either use a heavy duty machine or remove the macroplastics whereever your sewing line goes along

>> No.2637024

>>2636970
What I ended up doi g was thread tracing the seamline, then going in with small sharp scissors and removing the sequins on the seamline. Huge time-consuming PITA but it worked nicely in the end. Couldn't cut the threads because it's a chainstitch and everything would've unravelled.

>> No.2637041

>>2636839
try it out yourself and see which you think is easier

>> No.2637227
File: 12 KB, 400x533, 92390.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2637227

>>2636839
Paper is super cheap, even compared to muslin so for me it's much more cost effective to draft a paper pattern, test in muslin, do corrections and transfer to a revised paper pattern, than to start with muslin. The paper I use is thin enough to be able to walk the seamlines by overlaying one piece on top of another. Can't do that with muslin. I may go thru 2-3 paper patterns and 1-2 muslins before cutting into the fashion fabric. Only time I start with muslin is when draping a pattern, but I always transfer it to paper after, for ease in storage and reuse.

>> No.2637293

>>2637227
i don't understand it seems only helpful when you need to make the same garment over and over with the same measurements like in a factory

>> No.2637338

>>2637293
From one shirt pattern, you can adapt the collar, cuffs, button placket, sleeve length, hem style, etc. For pants, change the leg width, length, etc. You don't have to keep redrafting the basic body when you have it on paper, Just need to redraft the parts you're changing, starting with already accurate measurements for a garment that fits. For me, it's a time and cost efficiency issue. But if you want to start from scratch for every single garment and make multiple test for each one, go right ahead.

>> No.2637392

Got a 1950s singer that's fucked. When you push the pedal, it either doesn't go, but makes noise, or if you push it further it goes 10krpm and fucks your shit up. If you try and feather the throttle and make it go slowly, it's extremely difficult and often impossible, and there is burning clutch smell and smoke coming out of it if you try to control the speed for more than a couple seconds.
Where do I start fixing this and is this even worth looking into? Was a family heirloom but it's not really all that important to justify a complicated 15hr repair job.

>> No.2637393

>>2637392
*machine is not important enough. The sewing machine is not worth a 15hr repair job.

>> No.2637491

>>2637392
> it either doesn't go, but makes noise
At the very least check/replace the capacitors. They are either in the foot pedal, machine bottom (less common) or motor assembly depending on model. Some say that they’re unnecessary nowadays with modern power grid and remove them altogether.

However if your caps and speed control are all integrated in the pedal (no speed knob) then replacing the pedal alone with a $30 generic replacement might fix it. Could also be the motor brushes which are easily replaced. Or you get the cheap $40 motor+pedal kit from Amazon, they’re crap but can work

>> No.2637605

>>2637491
Thanks sounds not too bad

>> No.2638526

>>2636927
>is there often a commob reason to do this
as far as I understand, this is done on cheap clothes to save time and money since it sews and finishes the seam on one single process
there should be no need to do it at home but I don't really know what the alternatives are (other than maybe a french seam) since I'm not a sewfag

>> No.2638665
File: 631 KB, 525x700, b-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2638665

>>2638526
If you work with knits, a serger or overlock gives a clean finish that retains stretch--something that you can't do well with a straight stitch sewing machine. If you work strictly with wovens, there are multiple ways to finish seams, either by hand or with a straight stitch: hongkong finish, pinked edges, french seams, flat felled seams, turned seams, hand whip stitched, blanket stitched, bias bound seams, etc.

>> No.2638701

Ive been trying to teach my self how to tailor suit jackets but its harder than i imagined. I have about 6 suits but i lost 100lbs so they all need to get tailored.
Had one done professionally and it fits like a glove again so I knownits possible nut youtube hasnt been much help.

Any resources? Shoulders are the devil lol

>> No.2638742

>>2638701
Shoulder restructuring isn't for Youtube trained amateurs. The shoulder/neckline carry the drape for the whole shebang. To alter shoulder width requires undoing all the structuring built into the top of the armscye as well as the front chest into the neckline. It can cost as much as a new jacket would. Slimming the waist isn't as much work. Maybe just take your other suits to the same tailor and have them done.

>> No.2640560

>>2628886
Maybe, but talented homos, bromo.

>> No.2640567

you guys have any tips for super glue on fabric

>> No.2640573

>>2640567
Yeah, don't.

>> No.2640603

anyone itt handsew leather?
I wanna see handsewn stuff

>> No.2641370

>>2641025
Are they really that bad? I ordered one that cost about 30 bucks. Not the cheapest but I've noticed that you usually get what you pay for with the chinks. It comes with a pedal so I'll just use that if the motor really sucks.
I actually went back to where I picked up the necchi to see if I could find a pedal, and I actually did find the original but someone had pretty much completely gutted poor the thing. I bet that pedal is the reason why the machine was abandoned since it seems to stitch just fine and I can't really find anything else wrong with it.

>> No.2641599
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2641599

Hi, I don't really visit this board at all so hopefully you won't shout me out for asking to be spoonfed like this, but I'd really like to get into tailoring/sewing and so I figured I'd ask here. I intend to actually study to be a tailor next year, but for now I'd like to just get stuck in and learn as much as I can on my own.
For now I'm mostly interested in making some basic clothes, shortening some of my pants and perhaps making simple tapestries.
So, with a budget of about 500-600€, what sewing machine and other supplies should I get? What are some good books and/or online tutorials that you'd recommend?

>> No.2641731
File: 172 KB, 640x800, shopping.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2641731

>>2641599
With that budget, you're prob going to have to get a used machine. Besides a machine, you'll need a steam iron, ironing board or pressing table, extra bobbins, machine and hand needles, thread, good fabric scissors and pinking shears, basting thread, tailors chalk, straight and curved rulers, tailors tape, pins in various weights, a good thimble, and tailors hams. Fabric too, and different types of interfacing. Hand stitches to practice: pad stitch, fell stitch, basting stitch, ladderstitch, catch stitch, running stitch, whip stitch, backstitch, slip stitch, gathering. Fabric/materials to be familiar with: hymo, interfacings, twill tape, shoulder padding.
Look on the Internet Archive for old tailoring and sewing books, at used book stores or the library. David Coffin has shirt and pants making books that are top notch. Claire Schaeffer has an invaluable series of books on couture techniques and tailoring. Threads Magazine has lots of good quality info in articles and videos. Well worth the digital subscription price to have access to their archives for techniques, troubleshooting, pattern drafting and alterations, product reviews, etc.
Be careful with Youtube. Lots of crap and bad "experts" out there.

>> No.2641954

Reposting here because it's relevant, any ideas on doing something like Smyth binding for books by hand? Trying to come up with a jig or some idea on how to bind books with that particular style (because it's good), without the $12k machine to do it.
>>>/po/614619

>> No.2642050

I was finally able to fully fix my grandma's Łucznik machine. The last thing not working was the knob to disable transport so that the machine can be used for embroidery. The part connected to the feed dogs was seized onto the shaft with dried old lubricant so much i had to hit it with a hammer few times just to get it to move and then add a bunch of new oil and work it in between the part and the shaft.
Here's a video that shows how the mechanism should work if anyone's interested or has a similar issue https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTXsLTgZPPE

>> No.2642166

>>2641370
old motors were made to last, and their pedals were just rheostats which are as simple as any electrical controller can be

>> No.2642677
File: 272 KB, 516x660, myhat.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2642677

>>2642166
Made this hat for winter

>> No.2642733
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2642733

how do you call this type of buttons? I don't know how to weave the threads so they won't fall apart after a few weeks

>> No.2642747

>>2642733
toggle buttons. the threads look like a simple 2 strand twist. maybe 3. either way you twist each strand individually clockwise and then twist them around each other anti-clockwise. if that's a pain you could try something like a 4-strand braid.

>> No.2642893

>>2626087
You have to admit it came out nice though

>> No.2642915

>>2642893
I don't think it did, though. The cuffs, in particular, look like something out of an 8th grade home ec class.

>> No.2642954
File: 90 KB, 474x740, 16884966460206371522002016159974.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2642954

These suits usually have an inner corrugated rubber pressure suit which causes it to be very puffy
This is not a sustainable material choice in the heat of July.
What kind of setup should I have for this suit which maintains the puffiness but isn't a total sweatbox?
I plan on including some kind of cooling system which might be just some delta fans on blast

>> No.2643239

>>2640603
i do but im not posting it because it looks like shit

>> No.2643266
File: 2.46 MB, 4032x3024, Snapsack whipstitch.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2643266

>>2621160
Been hand-stitching a whip stitch into the strap on the snapsack I use for reenacting, the raw canvas edge has been fraying a tad recently. Need to do the other side. Not the neatest work but solves the problem.

>> No.2643308
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2643308

>>2643266
Would really recommend pinking shears for that sort of material if you just want to prevent fraying. Been making some raw canvas bags and there’s hardly any fraying even with rough use

>> No.2643309

>>2643308
Oh wait I’m an idiot, they probably didn’t have those in the Middle Ages

>> No.2643327

>>2643308
>>2643309
Interesting idead though anon, would've expected the tapers to wear and unwravel the points until it's a flat edge again.

>> No.2643379
File: 1.19 MB, 3440x2720, pink.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2643379

>>2643309
>Before pinking scissors were invented, a pinking punch or pinking iron was used to punch out a decorative hem on a garment. The punch would be hammered by a mallet against a hard surface and the punch would cut through the fabric.
>The word "pink" can be used as a verb dating back to 1300 meaning "pierce, stab, make holes in".
Not Middle Ages, but old enough I guess.
>>2643327
>The sawtooth pattern does not prevent the fraying but limits the length of the frayed thread and thus minimizes damage.
From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinking_shears

>> No.2643557

>>2621160
Starting work on a silk polo/golf shirt.

>> No.2643594

>>2643557
What are you planning to do for the knit collar/sleeve bands, and the button placket? Can't be easy to find a matching knit.

>> No.2643608

>>2643594
Thank you for making me think that far ahead, anon. Not really rushing things.
I think a black knit for the sleeve would do just fine,... that is if I don't just do a hemmed arm cuff. Probably do the material with the placket and do interfacing and such.
This will be my first new project, so first time working silk too. Really want a silk piece for the hottest parts of summer. Might do a pair of boxers in the future, and later a dress shirt.

>> No.2643693

i made a hanfu shirt

>> No.2644302
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2644302

>>2643693
Nice one, anon.

>> No.2644379
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2644379

>>2621160

I see machines ranging from 0.6 amps to 1.3 amps. Its usually shown on the back label.

does this actually matter?

>> No.2644403

>>2644379
That's probably more for sewing machine mechanics.

>> No.2644410

>>2644379
That info can give you a general idea of how much power your motor is capable of putting out. approximately 1/6 hp in your case

>> No.2644460
File: 42 KB, 540x346, less sewing vest.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2644460

if the pattern allows it and I got enough fabric, is there any advantage on cutting and sewing over using a single piece?

>> No.2644475

>>2644460
The only two issues of any significance are 1) what the grainline on this is and how you position on your fabric, and 2) do you want a top that has no seams to adjust for fitting. This pattern will be square and boxy, and will fit badly or uncomfortably at the back neckline, since there's no scoop there to accommodate the cylindrical shape of the neck. If the pattern includes seam allowances, and the grainline runs neck-to-hem, you might be able to fit it across the straight of grain on standard 45" wide fabric, depending on which size you're using. Otherwise you will need to turn the pattern and run the grainline along crossgrain.

>> No.2644826

>>2644302
yeah i followed the guide here
https://torguqin.wordpress.com/2010/07/17/the-dummies-guide-shuhe-pt1/

>> No.2644869

>>2621160
What do you lot do with projects that have gone awry? As in garments that end up too small or some other beginner tier disaster? What do you do with the material then?

>> No.2644902
File: 3.29 MB, 4032x3024, Snapsack whipstitch completed.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2644902

>>2621160
>>2643266
It is done. Whipstitches take up a surprisingly large amount of thread in relation to the length of the piece. Must be at least the length times seven, per side.

>> No.2644956

How do you sew really stretchy cloth? I've got a serger but I'm talking like 4 way stretch spandex. Do I need 'wooly nylon' or other stretchy thread? I know that can work in a serger, but how is it in a normal machine? All of my sewing machines are vintage, newest is probably 80s vintage. Still gotta do some finishing with a zig-zag or stretch stitch since I don't have a cover stitch or flat seamer or whatever specialty machines.

>> No.2645069

>>2644956
>Do I need 'wooly nylon' or other stretchy thread?
in the loopers for seaming, yeah. then wind a bobbin with it and use a twin needle to do the hems.

>> No.2645110

>>2644902
much improved, nice job

>>2644869
different garment/project, muslin, bias tape, lining, all manner of testing, contrast, patching, polishing, cleaning. all depends on the material whether it gets repurposed or goes in the scrap bin, rag bin, or trash bin.

>> No.2646104

I completely forgot about my thread till now. It's been in the left corner pinned in my browser sense I made it. How's your projects goings?

>> No.2646199
File: 2.53 MB, 4000x2250, IMG_20230710_193355_HDR.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2646199

>>2641370
The motor+pedal got here pretty quickly. I ended up kinda just wiring up the pedal into the old motor and crossing my fingers hoping that nothing catches on fire and the thing seems to do it's job just fine. I guess I'll keep the chink motor as a backup.

>> No.2646330
File: 597 KB, 816x980, 9E291AE5-EB8C-45EC-863E-2EACB35BBF4C.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2646330

This skirt. 100% linnen!

>> No.2646355

>>2646199
i told you dude, pedals are easy to replace and almost everything works with everything its only a reostate.
now that you can try properly, how its the machine itself doing? everything else is fine?

>> No.2646383

>>2646330
Nice! But press your darts.

>> No.2646420

I want to start getting into the craft as I am very very tired of having everything tailored because nothing fits like I want it to.

How much should I expect to spend fucking shit up and messing up before I can shorten a shirt and sleeves acceptably?

>> No.2646424

>>2646420
What kind of shirt?
Get a bunch at yardsales or the thrift store to practice on. Long sleeve button up sleeves will take lots of practice. Tshirts are easy, both hem and sleeves.

>> No.2646434
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2646434

>>2621160
finished my extremely small clasp, had to break an old bracelet to get the bead
i know it looks fucked up my hands were jittery

>> No.2646437

How do you guys gather fabric evenly? I might just be retarded but I've never managed it.

>> No.2646439
File: 910 KB, 1374x1368, IMG_1553.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2646439

Thread inspired me to try and tailor a shirt. $2.90 shirt from goodwill brought in the sides about one and a half inches each side and moved the button on the collar as it was too tight

>> No.2646440

>>2646330
Well done Anon!

>> No.2646459
File: 912 KB, 1440x860, gathering-fabric.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2646459

>>2646437
I cut a 1" seam allowance on the edge that gets gathered, then do a medium zig zag over a long piece of dental floss in the seam allowance, about a quarter inch from the seamline. Pin a measuring tape to the ironing board in the finished length you need for the gathered edge. Anchor the floss on one end by wrapping it around a pin in the fabric. Pin that end to the ironing board at the start of the measuring tape. Gently slide the fabric along the dental floss until the gathered edge is the correct length. Put a pin in the the end of the fabric and anchor the floss to the pin. Distribute the fullness evenly then run a second medium zigzag or long straight stitch over the first narrow zigzag in the seam allowance. Pull out the dental floss, then baste the gathered fabric to whatever you're sewing it to along the seamline. Trim away the excess seam allowance and sew in place permanently.

>> No.2646544

>>2646355
I mean it is kinda old, slow and clunky but other than that I still see no issues. Seems like a nice sturdy machine. Now I just wish I also had the original accessories to this thing.
I actually went to this local thrift store kinda place that has a sewing service to look for a pedal and found out that it was them who threw the thing away, and from what I gathered it was literally just because of that broken pedal. I assume this machine has a lot of hours in it but also probably has been properly serviced.

>> No.2646594

>>2640603
If I remember I will take a picture when I get home :)
inb4 I forget

>> No.2646608

>>2646434
Based
Still have an old plastic Silvanian families house that belonged to my sisters with a rabbit family. My neice plays with it now. The tiny details on all the small bits of decor really satisfy my autism.

>> No.2647338

>>2646330
is this a man

>> No.2647348

>>2647338
Knowing this place? Probably.

>> No.2647521
File: 2.49 MB, 4032x3024, Trousers re-buttoned.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2647521

>>2621160
Just finished rebuttoning these 17c style togs.

>> No.2647676

>>2646439
Nice job, looks like it fits pretty well now. I've always thought about doing similar, except the sleeves are always too short. I've got a dress shirt I bought with long enough sleeves but it's so fucking massive with it's "classic cut" I don't know if I could even bring it in enough without massively changing the shape.

>> No.2648087

What’s a cheap but sturdy fabric for templating? I read muslin in this thread but its not cheap here, and I’m going to make a duffel so I think it won’t be representative.

Additional question can I really waterproof seams with candle wax (or beeswax) or do I need to buy some of that expensive seam sealing stuff

>> No.2648106

>>2648087
muslin

>> No.2648231

>>2648087
Where do you live that muslin isn't cheap? Try old sheets from home or a second hand or thrift store.

>> No.2648540
File: 22 KB, 474x266, 1665126214225871.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2648540

TELL ME THE BASICS OF MATERIALS
WHAT ARE ALL THE DIFFERENT NATURAL FIBERS AND WHAT WEATHER WOULD THEY FUNCTION BEST IN
WHAT ARE ALL THE DIFFERENT MAN MADE FIBERS AND THEIR WEATHER x FUNCTION

>> No.2648612
File: 69 KB, 1080x740, Screenshot_20230714_082458_Gallery.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2648612

>>2648540
Seriously? You can Google all this in less time than it takes me to phone post an answer. Hot weather: cotton, linen, silk, light weight wools, rayon, raime, intermodal, bamboo. Cold weather: layer from inside out with silk, cotton, wool, nylon or waterproof canvas.

>> No.2648631
File: 49 KB, 560x577, 1674422202255498.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2648631

>>2648612
i got an answer hehe

>> No.2648917

bump
same anon as >>2643557
Finished the torso, accidentally sewed a sleeve on wrong. Fun times. Silk feels nice. So light, and... uhh.. silky...

>> No.2648928

>>2648917
Well at least it was only one sleeve. I finished an entire long sleeved shirt for a customer, and it wasn't until I went to set the cuff buttons that I realized the sleeves were switched. That was the day before it was due for pick up. That was a long-ass night of unpicking and resewing.

>> No.2649120

Is it worth salvaging hardware from clothing you're going to throw away?
> wife throwing out old not real leather boots.
> cut of buckles, rings, and get what looks like two stout zippers from the back of the boots.
I guess I'm a hoarder but I really like idea of reusing things that have lost their purpose.

>> No.2649123

>>2649120
yes you are a hoarder but being a hoarder is good, there's no excuse for being wasteful

>> No.2649349

>>2649123
you make me think that you save your shit for fertilizer

>> No.2649503

>>2649349
> he doesn't know about night soil

>> No.2649622

Best place to find handkerchief linen or silk chiffon online? I hate Mood. Would rather buy somewhere else.

>> No.2649857

>>2649503
I'm saying the type of person who straight up takes their shit and turns it BACK into soil. Like the entire process.

>> No.2650097

>>2649503
damn near laughed the whole house awake

>>2649622
fabrics-store for the linen. thaisilks for the chiffon. farmhousefabrics for both and for nice quality natural-fiber wovens in general. dharmatrading for a wider variety of the same in an undyed state.
add .com to each for website
>Best place to find
best is subjective here; if i've guessed wrong, say so. there's plenty of other places besides these four.

>> No.2650265

>>2649349
>>2649857
never heard of drop toilets?

>> No.2650266

is it easy to make female fast fashion

>> No.2650273

>>2650266
so long as you're already set up for it, yes

>> No.2650286

>>2650273
what do you mean set up for it

>> No.2650574

>>2650286
Not that anon but it means you have the tools, machines, equipment, and space to do small scale (production line?) sewing works. So, a sewing machine, serger, coverstitch, cutting and pressing tables, rulers/tapes, pattern making supplies, pins, thread., as well as fabrics, interfacings, etc.

>> No.2650691

>>2650574
i don't want a production line just clothes like that where do they lie in terms of skill

>> No.2650729

>>2650691
Do you already know how to sew and can use a pattern? Common skills needed would include using a serger for joining and finishing, sewing with knits and wovens, inserting zippers, doing buttonholes, inserting elastic, making casings, collars and cuffs with knits and wovens, flat pattern sewing, etc. If you have the equipment and intermediate sewing skills, it's relatively easy, depending on what you want to make.

>> No.2650835

I'm going to produce a double breasted alb - when making double-breasted garments, how do you manage the interior front?
Everything I've tried so far just gives me an interior that slides down.

>> No.2650854

>>2650835
Lining and front facing are sewn together along the vertical seams (shoulder to hem) AND attached at the shoulder and neckline to the fashion fabric. Shoulder seam also supports the hymo chest lining, lapel lining and any padding. If you aren't attaching any of the interior construction layers to their anchor points along the shoulder, neckline, sideseams and so forth, none of it will hang correctly.

>> No.2651087

>>2648917
>>2648928
Almost sewed the sleeve on wrong again. Caught myself before I put too many stitches in.

>> No.2651324
File: 164 KB, 512x512, 1676588054121626.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2651324

I need to make a body pillow case for a memory foam one. Measurements for the pillow are 127 x 35.6 cm (50 x 14"), how many extra inches should I cut the fabric?

I've simply never made a pillow case before and don't want to cut my fabric too small

>> No.2651327

>>2651324
2" is normally fine as long as you pin it right.

>> No.2651328

how do you attach a collar to the main garment and not have it bunch up while doing the curved sections

>> No.2651397
File: 53 KB, 650x444, Mathilde_sewing_pattern_2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2651397

>>2651328
Run two lines of staystitching on the neckline, just inside the seam allowance, from shoulder to center back. Clip into the seam allowance just up to the staystitching but not thru it. This allows the allowance to spread out "flat" when you pin the collar/collar stand unit in place, without stretching out the neck seamline.

>> No.2651457

>>2648087
Calico.

>> No.2651478

>>2651397
collar line is supposed to be spread into a straight line?

>> No.2651492
File: 73 KB, 650x488, attach-collar-stand-to-shirt-collar-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2651492

>>2651478
Yes, roughly, to follow the shape of the collarband + collar unit which usually have a slight curve.

>> No.2651493
File: 71 KB, 650x357, stitch-collar-stand-to-neckline-edge-with-text-collar1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2651493

>>2651478
Once it's attached at the neckline and topstitched, the stand/collar curves with the neckline opening.

>> No.2651885

I’m trying to decide on a design for a travel duffel I’m making. It’ll have two handles made out of webbing. The question is would it be okay to sew the handles onto the fabric (so when you lift it the weight is on the stitches) or should I put them all the way around (so that you lift the weight by the webbing).

The first option is easier for me but I don’t want the handles to come off at some point. It’ll be maybe 20kg heavy when full. I have now idea how strong/durable a stitch is if you use it like that

>> No.2651917

>>2651885
If it's going to get regular use, wrap the webbing around the body of the bag. The typical "grab and jerk up" motion of lifting will stress the stitching and the fabric over time.

>> No.2651994

>>2651917
Thanks, makes sense I’ll do that then. Was wondering because some of my more expensive duffles have them sewn on (eg the north face) but cheaper ones sometimes have them around made out of one big piece.

Another question what do you guys use to temporarily mark lines on dark fabrics? Eraseable marker doesn’t work for me because it’s polyester coated and I can’t get a chalk piece to make a thin solid line

>> No.2652004

>>2651994
>Another question what do you guys use to temporarily mark lines on dark fabrics?

Dressmakers/tailors chalk.

>> No.2652008

>>2651994
I just cheapo chalk from walmart with a pencil sharpner. works well. If I'm cutting on that fabric, I'll just use a sharpie

>> No.2652026
File: 9 KB, 439x439, ck31as-1-main-ck31as_parent.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2652026

>>2651994
Clay chalk for me for most things, or white basting thread for good fabrics

>> No.2652138

>>2651885
Most duffels have straps all the way around the bag, I think since they offer some support at the bottom.
I'm compensating on the canvas travel tote bag I'm sewing by using some denim reinforcement along the bottom and sides to really lock everything in place and add another durable layer where it's high traffic.
20kg is a lot, and that's probably testing your main material and seams; so research up stitch patterns and thread that will work for your scenario.

>> No.2652193

>>2652138
Thanks for the tips. I’m building a scale model first to check if it’s strong enough. It probably won’t be 20kg on a regular basis since it’s a travel duffel but sometimes I have to bring tools and oil with me and it gets heavy. In my previous bag pointy stuff would sometimes poke into the bottom when it was heavy so I’ll add a double bottom layer inside

>>2652008
>>2652004
>>2652026
I must be stupid I didn’t know you can resharpen these with a knife

>> No.2652307
File: 418 KB, 600x600, 54696846818315.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2652307

I have some of this Faraday fabric and I want to use it to line the inside of my clothes with, particularly the crotch of my pants so I'm not irradiating my nuts with cell phone signals 24/7. this stuff is pretty thin and flexible and actually blocks out signals well. I haven't really done any sewing apart from hand stitching buttons and fixing tears, but I'm pretty handy and already have access to a sewing machine. are there any best practices I should use to line my clothes with this stuff?

>> No.2652455

>>2652307
Just make some boxer shorts. Lining readymade clothes is a bitch and not worth it for this level of crazy.

>> No.2652473
File: 2.46 MB, 1952x2592, IMG_20220806_194423.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2652473

Boro/Sashiko Style bag I sewed

>> No.2653151

>>2652193
>pointy stuff would sometimes poke into the bottom
Why not make a tool roll/organizer thing? It doesn't have to be custom fit to every tool, just kinda "slots".

>> No.2653548
File: 355 KB, 960x1280, 68BA2CEE-A567-4406-966D-E55177F967E7.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2653548

Finished prototype. Must have screwed up at least one measurement because the top is wider than the bottom on both sides and the corners aren’t where I expected them to be. Also sewed the handles on for this one because I didn’t have enough thin webbing to loop all the way around.

>> No.2653812

>>2653548
Holy shit dude! That's fucking amazing! Good job my guy!

>> No.2653908
File: 391 KB, 960x1280, 1690122340152159.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2653908

>>2653548
That actually looks great. Maybe on the next one, run the handle strapping around the body of the bag, instead of end to end, for more support along the bottom.

>> No.2653927
File: 70 KB, 480x608, c34f6657-78cd-4daf-96a0-9a8efdfd2929_480x608.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2653927

>>2652307
Studies on covering pregnant womens' abdomens with lead for the purposes of putting them in CT scanners have found that it actually reflects the radiation back in and makes the dose experienced by the baby worse than not having the lead. For your hypothetical experiment, it could be a total waste of time or counterproductive. Best you could probably do is a pocket protector around the phone itself, but then you can't use the phone.

>> No.2653968

>>2653548
Well done, anon. Looks great. Better than mine (same anon as 2652138).
Hopefully it handles the loads you are going to throw at it.
My only feedback is that It's too bad you didn't put D rings in the loops that cover the zipper, but you could still hook something on I suppose
What dimensions out of curiosity? I did 18Hx18Wx10D

>> No.2654062

>>2653908
Thanks, that’s the idea for the final version but I didn’t have a long enough webbing piece for that for this one

>>2653968
D rings would have been nice but I have these webbing hooks I could use, should I need a shoulder strap.
It’s 30Lx20Wx14H. The final one is planned to be 50x32x22 but I may go with a different design because of how difficult I found it to get the final assembly right (squaring it up requires sewing two perfectly symmetric lines with almost no visual reference)

>> No.2654074

>>2653927
1) lead doesn't reflect the incoming radiation (it absorbs them due to it's abundance of electrons) so I highly doubt theres any study that has this finding
2) faraday cages don't reflect signals either they disperse the energy across the metallic weave in the cage. it's less effective than lead for high energy signals but more than good for lower level ones such as wifi or cell phone signals

not sure if you're intentionally being misleading or just confident in your wrong understanding but there is nothing about what I want to do that is a waste of time or counterproductive at least from a technical perspective

>> No.2654273

How difficult would it be for an absolute beginner to make a set of curtains? I'm thinking thick blackout curtains with metal rings.

>> No.2654279

>>2654273
I'd expect making built-in rings to be more difficult than just adding a strip to attach regular curtain hooks to.

>> No.2655164

>>2654062
50"?! gun bag of some sort?
Consider waxing to increase durability, stiffness of the material, and longevity

>> No.2655244

>>2655164
Millimeters lol, it’s a common duffel size that fits hand luggage dimensions.

Haven’t started yet because I’ve been spending a bunch of time on learning to do zippers and trying to measure how much fabric you lose when doing so. I currently “French seam” the zipper on but can’t get the allowances quite right yet.

>> No.2655303
File: 389 KB, 1200x1600, s-l1600.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2655303

this sewing motor is vibrating a lot at low speed. Trying to inspect the bearing but I don't know how the top part comes off - pull or twist?

>> No.2655814
File: 1.88 MB, 2218x2218, utility_bag.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2655814

>>2653908
>>2654062
I have made similar utility bag with traps through sides so you can take it as inspiration maybe. It's not the best, upper corners would look better rounded, but I'm just learning like you are. BTW I made plans for it in QCAD exported to pdf in case anybody would want it.

>> No.2655850

>>2655814
Cool, that looks pretty close to what I’m trying to make. I just need the webbing over the long edge to strap it down.

> upper corners would look better rounded
It does, but it looks like youre using the same method I am (center the zipper, close the edges inside out and then square the corners) and afaik there isn’t really a way to round them when doing that. Trying a different prototype first with separate panels

>> No.2655854

My machine works fine at low/normal speed, but the thread breaks at full speed.

Is this normal for walmart tier sewing machines?

>> No.2655871

>>2655854
Try rethreading it. Thread may not be sitting correctly in the tension discs or thru the thread track. Try a different spool of thread or a better quality thread. Thread gets old and can fray/snap. Try a new needle. Yours may have a burr on the eye/shaft.

>> No.2655873

>>2655854
>>2655871
I will add to this make sure the needle is right size for both material and thread. I get the same problem trying to sew tough materials with a small needle and big thread. Also if you sew really fast and the tension is low, it’ll pull in more length than needed because kinetic energy, which can loop around the needle

>> No.2656050
File: 77 KB, 750x382, 57CCE6AE-036F-4ACC-B63D-53C5A4C0245A.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2656050

>>2655814
Question about this one, how did attach the main zipper

I’m using the pattern from learnmyog and Instructions tell me 1/2” zipper allowance, but not sure how to interpret this. If I sew it like pic related and measure, the body panel from zipper to zipper is 1/2” longer than it should be (2xW + 2xH). There is no hem at the zipper. Shouldn’t I subtract the remaining width of the zipper from the panel size?

>> No.2656062

>>2656050
I watched a couple of their construction videos. Looks like that additional half inch is the width of the exposed zipper. If you need the main panel to be exactly 2x2, subtract a quarter inch from each zipper side, to account for the exposed zipper width, while still sewing a half inch seam allowance.

>> No.2656069

>>2656062
Thanks that makes a lot of sense.

>> No.2657081

>>2655303
Most likely, pull. It's probably engaged with splines on the shaft.

>> No.2657596

Hello is this the place to come to ask about leather?

I have a problem i built scabbards and shealths and have done so for some time out my shed. Recently ive had a real problem with mold.It just keeps growing on my leather within 20 minutes of me wetting it to shape it.My shed is dry so i thought perhaps it might be mold spores in my shed so i did it outside and let the sun dry it but i still got mold all over my piece! I dont really know what to do now... is my roll of leather covered in spores? is there any way to stop it? :(

>> No.2657599

Is there any reason I should not use silk thread for general sewing if I want a strong thread that isn't made of plastic?

>> No.2657603

>>2657599
Not that I know of, unless you make things for vegans or muslims.

>> No.2657626

>>2657596
Mold doesn't grow in 20 minutes... Post a before and after picture

>> No.2657644
File: 1.88 MB, 3474x3687, IMG_20230731_005532420~2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2657644

>>2657626
No it looks like mold to me.... I started this piece today out in the garden. This is it after being scrubbed with bleach...

>> No.2657751

>>2654273
The first set of curtains I ever made was for a garage at a house I rented. I was baking in there during the summer with the south-facing windows.

I just made a series of buttonholes, and put thin metal shower curtain rings in them. To get them to kind of scrunch up, I made alternating pinch folds with like a 1" vertical line of stitching. Does that make sense? Like, buttonhole, 4in, pinch facing out, 4in, pinch facing in, 4in, buttonhole...

For the curtain rod, I used some 1/2 electrical conduit, and for the curtain rod brackets, I used those spring loaded broom clamps ("bulldog broom clamp").

That might sound janky, but when you check out how much 6ft curtain rods cost... it adds up quickly. Conduit is much cheaper, same story for the rings & clamps.

>> No.2657759

>>2657596
>>2657644
I don't have a background in leather, but I was curious about this.
I found several places that say it's small traces of iron, either from the tanning process/contamination, or tiny bits of rust from your tools, workbench, etc.

I'll leave a link to this one because they suggest lemon juice to lift the spots
https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/11148-help-getting-dark-spots-on-my-leather/

>> No.2657831

anyone weave?

>> No.2657848
File: 181 KB, 794x794, il_794xN.1638575342_oafj.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2657848

Been doing some cross stitching, and I ordered a bunch of floss and proper needles. Feels like kind of an autistic way to spend the time, but it's also kind of nice.

I thought I'd be able to listen to podcasts, etc. while doing it, but so far I'm focusing so hard on every stitch that I "can't even hear what they're saying". Interesting stuff.

>> No.2657889

>>2625891
Nothing those two retards told you will work. I had the same problem and no amount of foot pressure adjustment did anything. Also, there's no such thing as "adjusting the pressure of the feed dogs". Using a sewing machine doesn't have to mean you are an idiot.

Solution: walking foot.

>> No.2658836
File: 76 KB, 292x878, plate1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2658836

Annoyed by how expensive plate carriers are and needing quite a few... sewed my own.

>> No.2658837
File: 302 KB, 960x1280, plate2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2658837

>>2658836
not me so dont simp. plates are Italian surplus lvl3 from sportsmanguide

>> No.2659293
File: 1009 KB, 2448x3264, chest rig v1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2659293

>>2658836
>>2658837
this is disgusting on several levels.

>> No.2659429

One day, when I have more than 2 dollars in my bank account, I'd like to try tailoring. It seems like a nice hobby. The aesthetic of the gentleman tailor is deeply appealing to me. I think I'd like to start by making a set of medieval peasant clothes to wear to my college classes. They'll have to be made of 100% cotton and light dyed fabric because I live in a hot place.

Please keep me in your prayers.

>> No.2659644

>>2659429
Joanns is your best friend, get the app and SAVE with their coupons!!

>> No.2659715

>>2621160

my thread breaks if I floor it, but the machine works fine if I go slow.

Is this normal? Its a kenmore 385

>> No.2659720

>>2659715
Sounds like the tension is too high.

>> No.2659736

>>2642915
anon its nice and he looks nice in it

>> No.2659797

>>2659715
lower your tension and get 110/18 needles.

>> No.2659809

>>2659644
Thank you anon.

>> No.2660382

When do you guys find reversing your stitching to go backwards useful?

>> No.2660394

>>2655814
What kind of machine are you running to sew heavy material like that?

>> No.2660411

>>2660382
At the beginning and end of sewing, to lock the stitches, and when doing mending, like for patches.

>> No.2660657
File: 2.19 MB, 2000x1500, messenger_bag.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2660657

>>2660394
I'm using Singer Heavy Duty 4432, which is kinda meme machine, it can sew through thicker fabric and more layers than standard household machine, but it's not really industrial machine. That being said, it's cheap and widely available.
The material is Cordura 500D, it's not that heavy as it looks like, but at certain places there are even 8 layers of it and nylon webbing can be thick as well.

>> No.2660698

>>2660657
Nice work on that bag, would probably not have top stitched the Velcro on like that but it’s neat otherwise

>> No.2660710
File: 3.15 MB, 2400x3200, 20230804_160720.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2660710

Hello frens, I need some help. I want to repair my hiking pack pic rel. I'm going to borrow my mothers machine. Will a 120/20 needle on a Harmony 2039 machine be able to sew this? The needle will need to go through 2 layers of heavy duty nylon strap + 2 thin layers of the bag

>> No.2660712
File: 2.51 MB, 2400x3200, 20230804_160750.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2660712

>>2660710

>> No.2660730
File: 284 KB, 960x1280, 12C12276-E820-4531-A148-C58EB7CBE1AD.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2660730

Made me a duffel

>> No.2660740

>>2637392
Have you cleaned and oiled it ? Depending on how well it was maintained, a lot of goo may have accumulated. And then, if it hasn't been used in a while, the oil most likely dried up. These old machines need more oiling than the modern stuff to run properly, and running it dry will shorten its lifespan quickly. If maintained properly, it will probably outlive you.

Id say to try this before anything else as its necessary anyways, then as others said, I heard pedals are one of the least durable parts.

>> No.2661109

>>2660730
Very nice anon, how many projects have you done before this?

>>2660710
Hmm, idk if a regular machine and 120/20 will work. Hopefully a more experienced anon can chime in here. You could try taking it to a cobbler.

>> No.2661118

>>2658836
Ahahahah I like this! Bring back clan tartans to the battlefield!
>>2657848
Cross stitching is so relaxing and yes autistic. I once cross-stitched a Walter White KISS THE COOK design for a secret santa gift for a big Breaking Bad fan. I watched the *entire* series of Breaking Bad while I stitched it. Pretty comfy. Wish I had a pic of the finished project to share, but I can't find it anywhere on my computer.

>> No.2661346

I’ve recently moved to the US from the UK. In the UK I regularly frequented ‘scrap stores’, to get lots of low cost second hand fabrics and craft supplies pretty much. They’re like stores full of recycled stuff, a lot of factory surplus and every day recycled stuff, with a giant range. So far I’m yet to find a US equivalent! Does anyone have any idea of how I can find anything similar in south west area.

>> No.2661348

>>2660710
should be alright. worst case you walk it through manually with the handwheel. hell the seam is short enough and the bits fiddly enough that that might even be the way to go. i tend to skip the machine altogether for stuff like this. a handsewn backstitch has certain advantages i like; but i digress. position the work and lower the presser foot. move the needle (handwheel) to its lowest point of travel before engaging the motor (foot pedal) so it's not starting under load and can better build momentum. orient the bag exactly as you did in these photos, with the tasmanian tiger logo facing up. the bulk of the existing seam will help keep the foot parallel with the bed of the machine as you get going. looks like you may still need to stuff a matchbook under the 'heel' of the presser foot at the very start though. if you can't get a clean straight stitch, meaning thread just tangles underneath no matter what you try, zigzag oughta work.

have her show you how to thread the machine and wind a bobbin and stuff. ask to borrow her seam ripper too, and a stout hand sewing needle. those two should do you for "better to have and not need" tier basic kit, but maybe also see if she's got a pack of self-threaders kicking around while you're at it. it's good practice to bury your thread tails instead of clipping them (neater finish, wears better) and those self-threading needles really excel at the task.

>> No.2661362

>>2661346
Goodwill and Salvation Army are the main country-wide places. Though I don't really remember seeing much in the way of /diy/ suitable things there.
Churches that have a donation drop off will sell things too, which might include a bunch of random fabrics and patterns. Otherwise you will have to search in your town for a shop that sells used clothing, but I don't know if they'll carry fabric too.

>> No.2661363

>>2661346
none that i know of but report back if you happen to find something. sounds tits. there's thrift stores like Goodwill that sometimes have donated fabrics and whatnot but they're more like your charity shops, where it's mainly clothes and homewares and just general everything/anything stuff. craigslist can be great for what you're wanting but it's down to luck. one important caveat with that: if there's a martin luther king street anywhere in the vicinity, don't go.

also welcome to 'murica bongfren. how you getting along so far?

>> No.2661414

>>2660657
Gonna check my local store for that or an equivalent, what ever they suggest. Nice work on the bags. I've got hard panniers on my bike, would like to make some soft bags that would use my existing rakes.
Many thanks!

>> No.2661511

>>2661346
I stand by what I say about Joanns, some people like to be snobs but give them a try if you have them in your area. Get the app too. Coupons are a win!

Also, lots of good online fabric places too.

>> No.2661512

>>2621160
What book or YouTube tutorials should I watch to learn how to use a sewing machine?

What's a good tiny basic bitch sewing machine? I live in a 12x15 apartment.

>> No.2661514

>>2661512
literally go to walmart and pick something out. Look for a tutorial on youtube with any old lady. Look for the old souther woman who looks like your Memaw type

>> No.2661546

Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask, but I just moved to a new place with a very white living room. What color curtains should I get? I was looking at just a simple off-white.
Also is it gay to have red curtains in your bedroom?

>> No.2661808

>>2661546
no wrong thread dude.

>> No.2662141
File: 200 KB, 1500x1125, 1691494910086.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2662141

Hi friends, /g/entleman here. I need to pick some fabric scissors for my mom, she has a sewing machine and likes to repair clothes. Her previous pair was from my grandmother, they are at least 40 years old by now and were very shitty even 20 years ago.
Can you recommend some models or brands I should look for?

>> No.2662170

Looking at sewing machines. I will probably try out the one a relative has so I can see what it's like to use one first.

Are Singers just shilled really hard? I see every online community saying that "heavy duty" is just dumb marketing and they should be avoided, but they are still mentioned on many many sites for some reason. Is it because of past glory?

Also, how big of a space should I have ideally for sewing?

>> No.2662188
File: 332 KB, 1694x1555, M187WissSign2[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2662188

>>2662141
Get some old Wiss scissors from when they were still US made. They can be re-sharpened basically forever.

>> No.2662199
File: 74 KB, 1006x1144, JinJian Black Dressmaking Scissors.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2662199

>>2662188
Thanks for the reply! I'm not US based, so that stuff is out of my reach.
I ordered pic related from Amazon, I hope I didn't fuck up.

>> No.2662772

>>2662170
I had an old 1970s Singer as my first machine. Switched to a Pfaff a couple of years ago. Bernina, Janome, and Juki are other good brands. The heavy Duty Singer is ok. Not great. There are better options. As for space needed, you need a big table or floor space to lay out fabric, a table to sew on, and room for a nearby ironing board. Realistically, you could set up almost anywhere, as long as you have space to lay out fabric. I did it on the floor in my small apartment for years.

>> No.2662967

What stitch is used on BDS on the sides, it looks like chainstitch but I dunno. Can sewing machines do it? What is the advantage of it over other stitches? Can I use whatever a sewing machine does instead, will it be of a lower quality?

>> No.2662972

Tailors cost almost 10 bucks to shorten shirt, and serger machines cost a fuckton too. What's a good strategy to get my wardrobe done, should I try to do an apprenticeship at a tailor's so I can use their machines, or is there a way to rent one from them afterhours, or should I just such it up buy a serger and sell it when I'm done?

>> No.2663114

>>2662772
fucks up with those automatic machines with 100+ stitch options

>> No.2663378

>>2657759
It took me awhile to get round to it but thank you very much.This was indeed the reason.It worked like a charm once it was applied.It is really interesting I was so sure it was mold since it behaved so organically.

>> No.2663714
File: 89 KB, 700x700, 菊づくし.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2663714

Are there any other weeaboos that are familiar with Sashiko? Been looking into it for use in quilting squares. While there seems to be a variant/style for doing simple patterns on quilts/patchwork, the patterns I come across seem to come in the form of single squares of white fabric with a pattern on them to stitch to. Then the pattern is washed away. The problem is, what if I want to use a pattern on different colored cloth?

I guess doing my own patterns might be a thing too? Unless trying to do these with a batting backing would drive me nutty.

>> No.2663761

>>2663714
Pinterest is full of various sashiko patterns snd there are dozens of pattern/how to books out there. Since most are repeats or gridded, you can enlarge/reduce to fit your needs for your project. Mark your fabric (whchever color you want) with your stitch guidelines with chalk, pencil, transfer paper, washaway paper, etc, pick a thread color, and have at it. Classic is white thread on indigo blue fabric, but there aren't any rules about color choices.

>> No.2663815

>>2663761
>washaway paper
Seems this is what I was looking for.
Most cloth also seems thin/sparse enough to put a pattern underneath and be able to transfer it that way. Almost doesn't seem any different from normal drawing/drafting tracing after seeing some example methods.

Though I can't seem to find videos of anyone following through with their examples and showing a step to remove the pattern marks. Some notes I've gathered:
>Erasable pen can be removed with an iron (Japanese videos always seem to use the same brand)
>Chalk and carbon/transfers can be washed off
Guess I should start making some plans and finding patterns.

>> No.2663951

>>2663815
>washaway paper
Nta but redpill me on washaway paper, is it the same that’s used for hemming stretchable fabrics with a sewing machine? Do they leave any residue, like marks or microplastics? Are there any disadvantages to them?

>> No.2663989
File: 387 KB, 1067x1458, Screenshot_20230811_080713_Chrome.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2663989

>>2663815
When working on thinner woven fabrics I draw out the design on paper, tape it to the window, tape the fabric over it and trace it onto the fabric using a pencil, ballpoint pen or micron pen, so like using a lightbox. For thick or napped fabrics, I do the same process but trace the design onto the washaway, then adhere that to the fabric. Picrel is the washaway I use.
To remove it, you soak in water, agitating it gently or rinse under running water.
>>2663951
>is it the same that’s used for hemming stretchable fabrics with a sewing machine?
No idea. This stuff leaves no residue after soaking/washing. Only disadvantage is the extra step of copying design onto the washaway and adhering it.

>> No.2664072

>>2663989
>Only disadvantage is the extra step of copying design onto the washaway and adhering it.
I wanna use it to hem knit clothes on a sewing machine cause im too much of a poorfag for a coverlock machine.

>> No.2664095
File: 78 KB, 777x777, shopping.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2664095

>>2664072
Washaway stabilizer wouldn't be great for hemming knits. Try something something like picrel instead. It won't lose it's integrity after washing.

>> No.2664254

>>2662972
Not sure why you think you need a serger, you could shorten a shirt perfectly fine with just a sewing machine. I doubt most tailors even have one

>> No.2664319

>>2654074
>Shielding modestly reduces fetal radiation dose but may compromise automatic exposure control, possibly increasing the maternal and fetal radiation dose. Shortening the scan is beneficial, assuming anatomical coverage is secured.
https://academic.oup.com/rpd/article/189/4/458/5839906?login=false
This is a study, I imagine there are many more. I was wrong to say reflection, but scatter is impossible to precisely conceptualize from an armchair. The gestalt is that being close to either the emitter or the body being scanned is bad, the rays reflect off of bones mainly, and disperse in all directions. The body is at the center of a thousand xrays from 360* in a CT scanner.

>> No.2664610

Quilting anon, are you here? What dimensions should I use to complete my Queen sized quilt? I see different measurements online and I was hoping to make one slightly larger since my husband is a blanket hog

>> No.2664644

>>2664610
Nta but most queen mattresses are 60" w x80" l. Figure out how much overhang you want on each side, side to side, and end to end, then add that to length and width. So if you want 10" at the foot of the bed, and a 10" fold back at the top, add 20" inches to the 80" length. 10" overhang on each side? Add 20" to the width, so 100" l x 80" wide. 100" x 100" is a fairly common size for a square queen quilt.

>> No.2664790

>>2660657
can a old hand crank machine take on thick fabrics you only have to use more arm strength right?
how do you figure out the thickest thread a machine can take

>> No.2664913

>>2658836
I'd use some different material like cordura or canvas, not mom's kitchen towel
or use aramid/kevlar to stop spalling if the plates are steel
Also what the fuck are those d-loops especially the one on the left arm? I'd be much better and stronger if the belts were a part of the carrier itself, attached with some strong double box stiches.
But still it's better than not having any armor so I can't hate too much

>> No.2664977

>>2664095
What does that do? And why does it matter if it loses it's integrity after washing that's why you're sewing the hem, the stitch keeps it in place, but the issue, I thought, was getting the stitch on in the first place cause machines fuck up when the material is stretchy.

>> No.2664980

>>2664254
It's not just shortening shirts it's also taking in knits and hemming them and a bunch of other alterations.

>> No.2664982

>>2664790
Where do you get needles for these old machines?

>> No.2665000

>>2664982
idk anywhere
these are ubiquitous in third world

>> No.2665009

>>2664790
The ubiquitous old hand crank singer does cordura 500d without any problem.

But for thicker stuff, it’s not really about arm strength, you give it more speed during the up stroke and it will go through the fabric using its kinetic energy. Alternatively you can manually turn the wheel instead of using the crank, and it will go through pretty much anything but very slowly. Make sure the needle is sharp.

>>2664982
The needles from the 1908 model 15 are still used today, even named after the model. They’re everywhere

>> No.2665012

>>2665009
so new machines are cucked by their motor strength

>> No.2665026
File: 757 KB, 2048x1536, 741AD5C8-4B77-4A5E-B58C-A4967459BC23.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2665026

>>2665012
You could say, but the motor power is limited to suit the other parts used. The old ones have solid metal rods, machines cams etc and they used cost $2k+ in todays money.

>> No.2665032

How are the sideseams on button up shirts done?

>> No.2665082

>>2665026
how come they're available for so cheap though

>> No.2665104

>>2665082
Because they are 100 years old, and you’ll have to clean them, replace parts (improvise some because nothing is standard threaded). Also older ones have no reverse, no zigzag, and no motor which means you’ll have to do everything with one hand.

If you’re just making/repairing clothes or making plushies, a $300 juki or the 4432 are a lot easier to use.

>> No.2665137

>>2665104
just crank in the opposite direction

>> No.2665173

>>2664977
That's what pins are for--to hold the hem in place while you sew. With thin slinky knits, some light knit interfacing in the hem helps it hold shape. Same with shoulder seams, and necklines and arm scythes, so they don't stretch out of shape. Thick knits like t-shirts don't need it.

>> No.2665175

>>2665032
If you're doing flat assembly, from the hemline up to arm scythe to the sleeve cuff in one go. You can serge it, do french seams, flatfelled seams, mock flatfelled, or bound seams. French seams are my preference for a clean durable finish.

>> No.2665205
File: 131 KB, 480x640, ruffle edge baby blanket.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2665205

>>2664610
Quilting anon here. The nice thing about making your own bed blanket is that you can make it to whatever dimensions you want :) And you can sew all the squares and things together for the top and try it out on the bed with the two of you before you sandwich it all together with the batting and backing and finish it off. If it's too small, then just add more squares to the edges. Quilting is nice like that! Aww I hope you end up with exactly what you guys want!
Pic rel is my latest baby shower gift project. EZ PZ and the new momma loves it! The blanket looks plain on one edge, but it's just hanging over the table when I took the pic--the ruffles go all the way around.

>> No.2665472

>>2665205
>image
dude that's pretty

>> No.2665731
File: 193 KB, 640x480, s8013 skirt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2665731

>>2665472
Thanks. Yeah I'm not sure what to sew this week... help me pick! I'm going to a scotch tasting this Saturday, so I could make a fancy something to wear to that. Or I could get a start on autumn wardrobe--was wanting to make a cute overalls skirt, some more skirts with beltloops for holster carry purposes, and also some cute little jackets. Help me pick project.
Pic rel is the dress I made for last year's scotch tasting event. So technically I could just re-wear it since I've only ever worn it that once, but.. might be nice to have something new. I think I'd still make something long cause my ankles got all bit up by mosquitos at a bonfire last week reeeeeee

>> No.2666336

Good-bye comfy sewi g thread.

>> No.2666435

>>2666336
Oh shit did we finally hit the bump limit? I'll make it pretty again

>> No.2666442

>>2666441

>>2666441

>>2666441

>>2666441

>> No.2666746

>>2665731
Long skirt or a crop jacket, so you can at least combine them with other outfits.
>with beltloops for holster carry purposes
PHLster Enigma if you don't want to worry about requiring a belt outside of accessorizing or keeping pants from drooping.