/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Anyone have leather crafting CAD files?

I found a few good ones on cults3d and thingverse but frankly I would prefer product ideas vs stamps. Like wallet cut out patterns etc.

Also to bump, 3d.printing is such a God damn cool hobby holy fucking shit. Need something? Just fucking design it. What a wild time to be alive.

>>2018253
It's more than a hobby, I bet half of everyone who owns a personal 3d printer does some kind of minor freelance business.

>4am
>trying to figure out x and y offset for probe
>nail hotend cooling fan with my calipers
Son of a bitch, I wasn't happy because that was my only 24v fan. I even printed a special mount so I could put it on my V6. I never even got passed the calibration stage with it either...

>>2018159
I've got a lot of experience with Gembird since a local retail store sells their stuff and I most certainly do not recommend it, my experience with it across something like five or six spools of ordinary PLA has been horrible.

Noticed this on my hotend after my extruder kept slipping after I lowered print speed and raised temps.... is this fucked? Can it be salvaged? Tips to avoid this? I think this might be because I switched the nozzle recently... I thought I had tightened it down good enough... don’t think it’s the ptfe tube because it didn’t do this before I switched nozzles
I apologize in advance for the rotated picture

>>2018269
It's the PTFE tube

YOU FAGGOTS SAID THIS WASN'T DANGEROUS

any one got any protips about a blt touch for a ender3pro

>>2018275
why would filament be leaking out of the nozzle threads if its a ptfe tube issue?

>>2018295
Don't be a retard and you'll be fine. But, judging by your grammar and the fact that you called a BLTouch a blt touch I think that might be hard for you. Maybe find a new hobby.

>>2018309
But 3d printing is already the retard hobby.

>>2018314
There are a lot of retards 3D printing because other retards spoonfeed them whenever they have a problem.

>>2018309
stfu faggot
>have fun next time kissing your mom... i coomed in there

>>2018321
Just do 5 minutes of research you dumb fuck. If you need "protips" on doing one of the most common 3D printer upgrades this hobby isn't for you.

>>2018324
legit there not a good video.. for the new ones that do not use the cord
> so fuck yourself dumb cunt

>>2018326
>I need a video because I can't read
>and I have no idea how to use greentext
Just go ask Reddit.

>>2018328
been a 4chaner all my life
> sit and spin faggot i'd pimp you and your mother out on fanonly for 3.50

>>2018329
You must be a month old because anyone using greentext like that obviously hasn't been here longer than that.

>>2018293
Jesus Anon, this is a worksafe board. You're clearly going to have to amputate that.

>>2018233
>FreeCAD
This is suffering. People really use this? It took me 10 minutes to make 2 concentric circles.
>make circle
>make point
>put point in circle
>repeat
>select points
>put in horizontal axis
>put radius constraint in first circle
>same for second circle
>put distance constraint between the two points
Catia
>select origin
>make two circles
>concentric constraint
>distance constraint
>done

>>2018262
So I was sitting there wondering what I could do. I thought maybe I could just print a new set of blades. But the whole hotend shook pretty vigorously with those missing blades, so I ruled that out. Then I got to thinking about physical replacements and how I did have a 12v fan that came with the hotend but my printer was 24v. Got to thinking about those buck convertors I should have ordered. Then I remembered about resistors.
I did some quick calculations and determined I needed a resistor around 240 ohms to drop the current from 24v to 12v. I dug through my parts and found a 15 year old resistor that had never been used.
A few tinned wires later, I had the whole thing connected and ready to test. I flipped the switch and low and behold, the fan spun up without any hitches. I measured the voltage across the resistor and it was less than 12v but more than 10v so I guess that'll work.
Are there any glaring flaws to this? Other than, you know, the obviously rigged look of it. I'm hoping it works out. I suppose I could just buy a 24v fan to replace this one but if this will be OK I probably won't .

>>2018394
>Are there any glaring flaws to this?
Make sure the power running through your resistor is within its capacity, or it will overheat and burn. Since it's dropping about 11V, it should be dissipating around 0.5W, which is okay for most resistors, but some are rated for 0.25W.

You can probably keep using it while you order a new fan online.

>>2018394
Seems like it'd be fine to me.

>the whole hotend shook pretty vigorously with those missing blades
you could break off 2 blades on the opposite side to balance it in a pinch

>>2018256
I got into 3dp 6 or 7 years ago when i stared working. They had me on a DMLS for half a year which was an interesting experience.
Since then i bought like 5 plastic printer, all of which paid themselves within months.

>>2018378
>opensad
> circle(r=foo);
> circle(r=bar);

>>2018404
Nuh uh, I'm not falling for this meme, m8. Nops. Nonononono.

>>2018406
You know you want it.

>>2018378
I don't know what you're doing all that retarded shit with points for, but yeah it'd be nice if you could constrain the distance between lines.

>>2018404
Wish it was easier to do parametric modelling in it...
and faster model generation.

>>2018408
>I don't know what you're doing all that retarded shit with points for
Because I wanted to input a distance between the two circles in case I wanted to change its thickness later. The only way I found to do that was to put points on the lines.

I'll probably install a windows VM and pirate something instead.

>>2018409
>Wish it was easier to do parametric modelling in it...
What do you find hard about it?

>>2018410
insideCircleDia = 5;
distance = 2;

circle(d=insideCircleDia);
circle(r=insideCircleDia/2 + distance);

Posted in old thread by accident.
Tried out the direct drive you guys suggested.
Did the leveling square and worked fine, still got to extend the wires to the Z motor but it's late so I'll do that and the E steps calibration and retraction test tomorrow.
Thanks for your help guys.

Also how hard should I screw the brass Z axis screw holders? Till the carrige doesn't swoop down under its own weight or more?

>>2018417
Technically you are correct thats a parametric thing. But its useless since you would never need only 1 primitive to be parameterized. A little extra complexity like defining the exact position of the circle and adding a rectangle depending on the circle immediately blows up the time and effort to do anything in OpenSCAD

>What do you find hard about it?
Just some basic thing that is 1 minute in any CAD like:
a tangent rectangle at some angle so that the center of the rectangles side is touching the circle. Then put a perpendicular line on the opposite side of the rectangle somewhere at an angle where the line ends in the center of a second circle, which is the end bit of a slot wish some length and thickness.

>>2018426
Yea some things can be math intensive

r=5;
rectWidth =3;
rectHeight =2;
circlePos = [5,5];

translate(circlePos)
circleWithTanRect(r, angle, rectWidth, rectHeight);

module circleWithTanRect(r, angle, rectWidth, rectHeight){
..circle(r=r)
..rotate([0,0, angle]) translate([r,0,0]){
....square([rectHeight, rectWidth/2]);
....mirror([0,1,0]) square([rectHeight, rectWidth/2]);
..}
}

I enjoy problem like this
Any other anons use openScad besides me and >>2018404 ?

>>2018378
Try Onshape instead I guess?
I won't recommend Fusion to anyone anymore.

>>2018304
Bring your hotend back up to temp and try snugging the threads down a little more.

>>2018295
>having to return my blTouch because the screws on my extruder came stripped from the factory and they haven't responded to my support ticket cause they don't want to send me a new one

What the fuck is going on with cura that it's doing this?

The part itself is roughly 1" in diameter so it's not exactly tiny.

thinking about upgrading my ender 3 to print PETG. gonna get an all metal hot end and hitemp boden. i already have a glass bed and upgraded cooling, and amg extruder. anything else i should get to make petg work? ive heard its a pain in the ass to print with

>>2018535
Get a direct drive so you can also work with flexible stuff.

What size of lasers are you guys using for your etching machines?

>>2018535
You don't need an all-metal hotend. The capricorn tubing is good, but optional. You can print without it, but not for long. And the whole point of the all metal hotend is so that you don't have tubing going to the nozzle, so you chose one or the other.

>>2018535
It's a pain in the ass to print with because it strings like nobody's business. It has a gooey, glue like property to it that also causes issues with those strings and other bits and pieces slowly building up on the nozzle overtime and depositing ugly boogers randomly throughout the print, sometimes being big enough to either knock your print off the bed or cause your steppers to skip.

And if you haven't already done so, rewire your board fan to a different power source. The vast majority of ender 3s have the parts cooling fan and the stepper board cooling fan on the same channel so when you shut part cooling off(a requirement for PETG), you also shut the board fan off, which will almost guarantee skipped steps due to the drivers overheating with any prints longer than just a few layers.

and with all that said I haven't had much of a problem printing in PETG on a stock ender 3(besides the cooling fan mod). It's more about getting your slicer settings right than your hardware. Also remember that depending on the part sometimes stringing can't be avoided no matter how much tuning and retraction you attempt.

>>2018507
What is it doing wrong?

Whoops, missed the new thread link. Someone in the last thread said Esun is on their shitlist, but I seem to recall that being one of the most commonly recommended and babby needs his first spool. What's up with that?

Is 0.2mm with microstepping the best combination for precision? Or is it too difficult to print with 0.2mm and I should invest in SLA+silicone resin casting+degas vacuum chamber instead. I would try myself but I would like to know in advance before I waste several hours learning that 0.2mm is a wild goose chase.

>>2018584
Don't.you have to figure out the magic number for your printer to get the best quality? Chep has a decent short video on it if you haven't seen it yet.

>>2018586
I watched that fag's video. That's the first step towards precision, but he does fuck all in explaning the nuances of designing precise parts, such as features that span the Z axis/vertical will have more detail than a feature parallel to the bed.

>>2018507
If you're complaining about the gaps, they look like coasting. Have you turned coasting on? Try reducing the coasting.

>>2018233
>>2018370
>>2017375
Nice anon, you look like you're using an Ender 3, or at the very least a very compatible Ender 3 clone. Which direct drive mount did you use?

>>2018615
Also, what kind of filament did you use for the mount? I'm not sure whether PETG would be necessary because of the constant warmth. I don't have ABS or ASA yet.

>>2018607
Yes, it was coasting. Didn't know it showed up in the preview. Disregard that post. Print turned out fine.

>>2018592
Figure out the magic number for the other axis then, easy now that you know the way

>>2018676
>magic number

>>2017762
>>2017732
>cloud-based software to 3D printers to enable faster and more accurate printing
What the fuck does it DO, though? The above is the most I could find and it's absolutely useless.

>>2018233
I have an anycubic i3 mega from 2017. I was out with a buddy tonight and my wife restarted my computer controlling the petg print. It froze and she panicked. No idea what all buttons she hit but I'm gonna go with all of them and now its a bit fubar'd.
It turns on but instead of the usual beep, it makes a clicking noise from the speaker. Screen is responsive and takes commands, somewhat, but I cannot get a usb connection or SD card read. EO and bed temps are both reading 0. Tried pulling the jumper on the board to USB mode but still no connection. Is the mobo most likely donked up? If so, what boards will replace the trigorilla?

>>2017994
It's working great! But I'd rather have the light be more diffuse, as opposed to shining in the corners. If the corner light look is what you're after then no problem, but I've got a thing for really diffuse light. EL panels are my spirit boner.

>>2018404
BASED

>>2018455
I also use it, though I barely started.

I think I'll write a python code to automatically generate the code for solids for me. Simple things like screw-holes (variables for diameter, countersink diameter, lengths, etc.). Also I'm doing mainly circularly symmetrical modelling at the moment, so a code to handle repetition of shapes around the centre would be nice.
Basically what you'd accomplish with a pastebin full of commonly used commands, but more interactive. Could probably just do it in excel actually, would give me something like a GUI too.

>>2018696
I assume it uses a bunch of sample data to extrapolate where your splicer will produce subpar results, and modifies the G-code (or does its own splicing) to take out some of the guess-work. The sort of thing you'd do with a neural network. If done well, it could be as easy to use as whatever $1000 CAM included proprietary filament printers use, but as versatile as a $1000 upgraded hacked together ender 3 with cura. Probably just spy/bloatware though, and not useful for a person who already has his printer tuned in and is used to particular filaments and how much support and infill makes for a good print.

Who do I buy my filament from? Is there a good reason not to start with PLA+?

>>2018712
The manufacturer's website, or Amazon is you want to be a bezos beta.
PLA+ isn't actually a standardized formula, and quality varies between manufacturers. Sometimes it's barely different from PLA and sometimes it's way better. What doesn't vary about it is the price, it'll always be more expensive, so you should look at reviews of different manufacturers to see if their PLA+ is worth it.

>>2018696
somehow they figured out how to use the vibrations that the printer naturally makes to their advantage

>>2018703
>splicer
>splicing

>>2018304
Ptfe tube not butting tightly with the nozzle. That's why I switched to an all metal hotend
>Heat to 220
>Take out bowden tube, cut it flush (print a jig for this)
>Put in new nozzle, screw it in fully
>Unscrew 1-2 full turns
>Plug bowden until it hits nozzle
>Tighten nozzle
Wala no more leaks

Fug I need to design an ender3 motherboard fan cover that is
>not ugly
>prints fast
>vent on the back to minimize fan noise

The only one I found is pic related but is way too bulky

>>2018455
I love OpenSCAD, but then again I only do boxes for my relay computer, to put the relays in.

>>2018423
Finished! Adjusted my extrusion from stock 93 to 99'5 after measuring with calipers.
First few mm of the first layer didn't stick but that may be my bed level off by a few mm.
So far so good, enjoying the Direct Drive.

>>2018806
Print something nigger.

>>2018773
Also forgot
>prints without support

Whipped up this one but looks like a slug

>>2018823
Forgot pic

>>2018233
The XT60 connector in my Ender 3 just burned to a crisp so I just soldered the power supply cables.
Do you recommend me to buy thicker cables, change the connectors or do anything else?

>>2018810
It's printing white boi

>>2018378
I just got used to Blender for when I made some stupid animations and got me pretty good results once I discovered boolean operators for making holes.
Took me some more time to discover that there was this "Fix Normals" option in Cura that solved basically all my leftover problems.

Why do the chinamen who make the Enders refuse to fix issues like this?
Had my 3 pro for less than a month

>>2018839
It's basically what I'm doing right now, but it's painful.

I printed this thing, but realized that the internal diameter wasn't big enough and the plastic wasn't flexible enough to allow the tube to enter the socket. Fixing this in blender is painful.

>>2018840
Because new injection molding molds cost money, money which is directly out of their profits. At best they'll fix the issue when their molds are in a completely unusable shape.

Do any ender 3 alternatives exist that don't utilize v-slot rollers?

>>2018824
May as well go all the way and build some slug patterns into it.

>>2018876
Every i3 clone

>>2018806
First print after DD adapter fitting.
Pretty pleased with the extrusion settings. Retraction works as expected.

The layering on the blade may be because I activated ironing like a moron.

I used sanding paper on my white print and now it turned red and it seems impossible to remove the colored sanding dust.
What can I do to remove that shit?

>>2018925
Forgot to say, it's PLA

>>2018720
That's great and all but every printer has it's own resonance. You simply modding your printer with a new fan shroud or direct drive stuff or anything else for that matter will affect that resonance.

>>2018916
Now go tune linear advance and you're all set.

>>2018824
There. Going to put it on thingiverse soon.

>>2018881
Nah, patterns/logos only slow down prints

>>2018935
im only guessing thats what it does. they probably have some baseline prints that you print and take measurements from to get the variables you need for their software.
the project is doomed to fail though. the software might work great but 3d printing is founded on open source ideas. alls it will take is a single modified gcode file being analyzed and their algorithm will be uncovered. hopefukly we see some form of it implemented at the firmware level by the end of the year

>>2018720
that sounds like some next level snake oil

>>2018981
noise cancelling headphones are also fake

okay what gives? part is 35mm, I upped to 36mm print is 34.4. there is 3.3% shrink in the longer dimension, 4.4% as shown. 2.2 and 2.7% shrink in the outside. ~3% vertically.

Is this a scale problem with the slicer or what? How tf do I fix this so parts print as designed (or at least closer)?

>>2018926
>>2018925
You've burnt the pla with too much friction and the sandpaper color came off on it.

The print's fucked. You should use acetone for smoothing next time.

>>2019006
>acetone smoothing
>PLA
peak retard

>>2019002
Sounds like you need to calibrate your printer. If you already have, do it again. It should print the exact dimensions from the model and slicer.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro

What's the quick 'n dirty on octopi, worth it?

>>2019002
I had a problem like this and it was tied to filament dimension and flow rate..hope that helps

>>2019002
My printer does the same thing. Makes inner dimensions smaller and outer dimensions larger. Probably has something to do with flow rate like the other anon said, but I've just learned to keep that in mind when tolerancing in CAD.

How is the color change PLA, specifically gizmodorks?

>>2019044
You can run it on Windows if your PC is right there so you can test it out

>>2019044
I like having it, and it gave me an excuse to do some soldering when I set it up, though it takes a while to boot up when I turn my printer on. It'd be less of an improvement if my laptop had an sd slot.

>>2018948
Upgrading to marlin as we speak. I was still on stock

im looking for the values behind this table.
Does anyone know how i can search for this in VSC? no luck searching the files, everything ive found online leads to a .cpp no longer existing

are the yellow springs actually worth it for the ender 3 v2 or is it a meme?

>>2019044
i think its worth it
no longer do you have to remove the sd card to load something
you can print straight from cura or drag and drop a gcode file into octopie to save on the sd card that is installed on the printer
that alone makes it worth it for me

What do you guys think of the Flex3Drive? It's similar to a direct drive setup in the sense that the extruder is right above the hotend. But the stepper motor that drives it is on the frame and connected with a flex shaft, similar to the kind used with some Dremel tools. I think it's pretty slick. Plus, it's open source so you can just build one if you want, although the kits are available for purchase.

>>2019168
Maybe change it from _24V to _24Vb to get the sanity check to trigger, then it will tell you what file that CHOPPER_TIMING is located in.

>>2019044
The ease of use and added functionality with plugins is what drove me to using it. The spool manager plugin is what will keep me using it for sure. Print time genius gives a pretty accurate estimate for the, well, print time. The bed visualizer is neat if you have a probe. Other minor things like the terminal to directly send gcode and being able to watch your print from your phone is nice, so long as you secure the connection of course. Another thing is adding klipper firmware to your pi as well, making your printer's mainboard do basically nothing.

>>2019173
Interesting idea, but I'm weary about the torsional slack; you're trading bowden slack and capstan friction for torsion slack and friction. It is true that in direct drive it's not free and you are trading it for an increased printhead mass instead.

>>2019175
I was retarded and confused go to reference with go to definition

>>2019214
Maybe there is a way to mount the stepper motor to the top of the machine and then keep the flex shaft taut. Like a second carriage that has light spring tension pulling it upwards while the extruder and hotend pulls it down. Just enough spring tension to keep the flex shaft taut but not enough where it actually pulls on the hotend carriage. Probably wouldn't work.

What causes this layer separation? I did this exact print with this exact filament at the exact same settings and this didn't occur.

>>2019002
Ah the mighty chink carbon fiber composite caliper accuracy.

>>2019214
What's the damage of printhead mass? Like say you added 3grams of lead. Your moving and stopping inertia is increased, but what is the actual effect on the print? Conversely what would be the benefit in the print itself to have a featherlight head? Assume power consumption and motor strength are not a factor. Potential speed will obviously go up, but again I'm asking about how the print is affected by over-speeding a more massive head, and if lightening the head would mitigate or eliminate that?

>>2019242
backed up by the fact the board doesn't fit. spending $100+ to get two more decimal places and a certificate isn't going to magically make the board fit you know.

>>2018394
You are dissipating 1/2 a watt of heat doing that. The better solution is to use a buck converter and make it where you can use cheap and plentiful 12v fans.

>>2019280
>1/2 watt
Well he's not running on batteries so efficiency isn't really an issue, and 1/2 watt isn't really a big deal for a resistor.

>>2019246
>but what is the actual effect on the print?
You'll limit your max print speed before you start to notice it's effects. and you'll find that your corners aren't as crisp. You most likely will increase the chance of ghosting as well.

>>2019235
Try increasing the temperature. If it's ABS, make sure it's not getting air currents and the fan is off.

>>2019302
It's PLA and I'm at 200. I'll try 210 for another print but I don't want to do another one of these, took 13 hours just to fail.

>>2019246
>Assume power consumption and motor strength are not a factor.
But motor strength is the main factor here. What determines your final X speed is how hard you can accelerate and how fast you can go before the stepper starts skipping steps. Obviously, a lighter carriage makes accelerating and maintaining speed easier, but that doesn't mean a heavy carriage can't go fast. You just need a big enough stepper and driver to sustain the speeds.
Side effects may include increased vibrations of the X carriage which shows up in the print, but if you're really serious about going fast then a linear rail is a good investment and practically nullifies that.

>>2019300
>you'll find that your corners aren't as crisp
That's because most people forget to turn up the jerk when increasing speed. A higher jerk setting will give you sharper corners.

>>2019235
>>2019315
Is the room that you print in below 60F?
Apparently anything below that and you can have problems with warp due to rapid cooling in a "cold" environment.
Another thing could be your part cooling fan being too high and over the entire print, which looks like a tall one, it will contract and cause layers to separate.
The problem with tall prints is that the center of the print will be the coldest causing it to contract and pulling the bottom and top layers towards the center causing both bed and layer separations.
Or your PLA sucks and you are not getting good enough layer adhesion to begin with.

But like you said, you were at 200, which is a tad low. Check your bed temp as well at 60. Keep the room at a comfy temp. Lower fan speeds. Try each one of these on it's own, it's usually a bad idea to change 10 things at once.

>>2019329
>higher jerk
that'll only help so much when your belts are stretching ever so slightly and then rebounding because your hotend has so much inertia. A software solution to a hardware problem can only get you so far.

>>2019331
Ya know what, it probably is the room temp. I prefer cold temps so my room is ~50. Guess I'll pump it up. Thanks anon.

>>2018749
thanks anon. the video I watched for nozzle changes never mentioned partly unscrewing it before inserting the bowden tube which I think caused the leak after I changed it. I was able to get it cleaned up and printing again.
I think I'm going to give up on 0.8mm nozzle for now, I haven't been able to get it to print much faster than my 0.4mm fast profile without being a stringy mess and at this point I've been fucking with it for 2 weeks

>>2019346
anon writes gcode by hand?

>>2019337
It still helps, simply because it's an overlooked parameter that people don't pay much attention to. Higher speeds need higher jerk to maintain sharp corners. Of course there's a limit to how much it helps, but it does help.
As far as hardware fixes go, you could use a bare bones bowden hotend with a small layer fan to keep the weight down, but I don't see the big benefit in that. What you gain in X speed and accuracy you lose in print quality, functionality and reliability.
Also do remember, you're obsessing over X but Y has to keep up too, and for most printers that includes a heated bed which is heavy as fuck, in fact far heavier than your X carriage will ever be. Your hotend has to keep up too. A basic bitch Mk8 might be really light but it certainly won't be able to extrude enough material to actually print well at those speeds.

>>2019371
Right. I thought I was following that sooper seekret magic slicer software chain. Thats why I mentioned physical hardware limits.

>>2019366
kek. I fucking hated having to write my own programs going through school. I understood the point of the exercise but mine would always end up doing derpy shit like that. God help that poor haas mill if I'm in incremental mode and I lose where I'm at.

>>2019371
>Also do remember, you're obsessing over X but Y has to keep up too, and for most printers

>>2018652
Good to know for when I eventually get around to messing with that.

>>2019346
this isn't /d/, no prolapsed nozzles allowed

>>2019401
Kek

do you guys know how to fix shit like this? this little niblet is causing a big ole string in one of my prints.

>>2019423
forgot image

>>2019423
>>2019426
You could try making the wall thicker maybe, that might help. That's the only thing I can think of.

>>2019002
hhE

>>2019426
okay so I figured out its related to infill somehow because when I turn off infill it goes away but so does the entire inner line. Also, it only puts that niblet there every other layer for some reason and slices it normally otherwise.

>>2019446
do you mean in cad? this isn't my model so I don't know if I'd be able to do that

>>2019461
Try a different infill pattern

bros ive had my ender 3 v2 for about a month now. its been silent other than fan noise since day one. now today in the middle of a print my stepper motors are making that stepper motor sound. any ideas why its no longer silent?

>>2019426
Make the corner of the box the same size as your nozzle.

>>2019464
Check that the rollers are moving smoothly the entire length. If the motor needs to work harder to move, it'll be louder.

>>2019461
I meant your perimeter line, make it thicker to fill the void, maybe it won't put infill there. I think in Cura there is also a setting to make it not put infill in below a certain mm^3, so maybe try that too.

>>2019474
thanks anon. when this print is finished ill check that out

>>2019463
>>2019473
>>2019480
thanks for trying to help anons. I've fucked around with the infill %, infill pattern, wall thickness, and skin overlap percentage. no matter how much I change things and fiddle with it cura always puts nubs in weird places or does something stupid with the inner line.
I think I'll try printing it with a 0.6mm nozzle tomorrow because when I slice it with that it doesn't do anything weird. I think 0.4mm just is not the magic number for this.

>>2019496
Or you could just change the model.

If I want a decent looking marmot (hedgehog) do I need to learn blender? Meshmixer is fine for banging around but the sculpting tools are ass.

Hey guys, someone on /tg/ suggested I come here to ask for help. I'm printing on a stock creality ender 3 v2 pro. I got it on Christmas and have printed quite a bit of stuff, some pretty decent-sized prints. However since swapping in my second spool of filament (other than the test print shit the printer came with) pic related keeps happening. I found out that a bunch of goop was piling up within the sock, so an anon told me to try taking it off and seeing what happened when I printed without the sock and it still fucked up like this. Is my nozzle broken? I'll replace it with the second I got, I just want to know if that's the issue and, if it is, how I can prevent it in the future. The only real difference between the first spool and the second is that I left some of the filament in the bowden tube for a while (there was a very, very small amount left on the spool that never would have printed) and then when I went to replace it I started by pushing the old shit all the way through, cutting it, and then pushing it more with the replacement stuff.

Back to the drawing board. At least it was a parametric model. Hopefully MkII fits!

>>2018916
>>2018806
Nice anon, which direct drive mount did you print?

>>2019205
>>2019171
>>2019096
thanks

>>2019552
Shit

>>2019550
Maybe your nozzle came loose some how and the hotend is leaking. When you change the nozzle, make sure the hotend is heated up and hold the block with a wrench so nothing else gets unscrewed.

>>2019426
Cut down the wall layers to 1

>>2019550
>>2018749
This shit needs to be pasted in the OP

>>2019385
X, Y and Z not cos sin and tan ok
Praise cartesian

What's the best cable management system?

I've tried printed chain but I think it adds more resistance to the axis and it makes clicky sound while moving.

>>2019734
Different systems have different attributes. Which is best depends on the situation and the functions being optimized for.

made a holder for some crimps, had a nasty z level shift midway when the material cooled too much as thickness increased, guess 60C wasn't enough, but its still too strong for me to rip apart so it'll hold

>>2019734
There's no single "best" system. I have tried this one on my Ender 3 without too much noise or resistance:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4163098

>>2019734
no meme chains only loose airloops.
Pretty certain mines the best ender cable management ive seen so far
>t. sparky
no drag
bigger bend radius than chains
no scour of the cables
no clutter
no cable getting in the way of movements
no print part, only a handful of zipties

>>2018378
i refuse to believe any first worlder is too poor to afford a f360 license.

>>2019755
I miss that as well ditch the meme chains and go and ziptie my assembly.

What's up with those screw terminals of your carriage, ghetto as fuck.

>>2019734
>>2019755
Back when I had a bowden setup I just had an arm on the back of the x gantry.

>>2019550
you are trying different models right, because sometimes the gcode gets corrupt and no matter how many times you print with the same code the exact same thing happens.

>>2019734
>What's the best cable management system?
having a delta printer

>>2019833
Cable management is tricky on a delta.

I'm having trouble finding a cooling solution for the V6 on my Ender 3 Pro that utilizes 4020 blowers. Seems like the vast majority of cooling systems use either axial fans of various sizes or a 5015 blower. Why the 5015 blower? Is it just because bigger = better in the case of cooling fans? I really want to use the 4020s because they aren't nearly as bulky as their big brother.

>>2019798
>>>>>makerbot
in the mids of rebuilding my replicator 1 clone

>>2019850
Wider fans are quieter and more efficient than taller fans. Taller fans do have their usecase; if you can bear them being noisier, you can have a larger airflow in the same footprint. So it really depends on what do you prefer by "better"; else all fans would be the same.

Does anyone what board the Creality CR-20 Pro comes with by default? 8bit or 32bit?

>>2019759
This thread is literally filled with people that are so poor that their only option is to buy ender 3 so what do you really expect?

@2019896
LoOk aT Me i'M sO snOb And EdgY
I bet (You) replied to yourself because nobody gave a shit

>>2018233
Just bought Snapmaker 2.0 a250. Did I fucked up?

>>2019908
don't buy 3-in-1, the design of them has to make compromises between the modules

>>2019864
The noise doesn't bother me at all so I would consider "better" being either more CFM overall or more CFM/mm^3 of fan size. If that makes sense.

>>2019759
What the fuck? You don't need a license for personal use, at least not a paid license. Hobbyists can get a free license.

>>2019759
>paying for cloud based software
>paying for cloud based software that you can use for free
Not just that, but
>paying for autodesk products
shiggy diggy

Stop giving Autodesk your data. Pirate Solidworks and don't look back.

>>2019921
part cooling doesnt need much volume at all until the point of diminishing return.
More important is duct design such that it doesnt blow on the printer nozzle and from at least 2 sides.
for references, ive gone from dual 5010 to dual 3510 blower and didnt notice a drop in performance.
Noise and hotend vibrations thou are down like 5 times to before

Is there any materials other than pla and petg that casual normie hobbist should be aware of? Is printing flex worth the hassle with bowden setup?

Not 3D printing per se, but hear me out.

My sister has been making epoxy jewelry and decorative items with silicone molds off AliExpress, and selling it through a girl that flogs them out to bartenders and such. My sister makes a few hundred a month, her salesgirl and bartenders half what she does.
She fills the molds with other solid stuff, such as glass bits, sand, metal chips, etc
She bought some dice molds because she knows I like /tg/.
They were a weird set with oversized d20, and d12and a d24 mold.

I bought a regular mold set, and am experimenting with materials other than epoxy.

I have a friend with a resin printer, and was wondering if there are any (affordable) silicone resins that could be used to print custom molds.

>>2019935
Have you tested the half circle or full circle ducts? Do you think that a wide nozzle or a more direct nozzle is better? I'm imagining a dual blower system with a nozzle maybe as wide as the thin side of the heater block and maybe with a 3mm tall opening. I don't know if that would be any good or not. Kind of a pain in the ass to design, print, and then test these things. One reason why I was using this: thing:1109880. But, it doesn't quite fit as shown here >>2019564, so I think I'm going to have to print a spacer of some type. Print a new fan, print a spacer, and test that. It's either that or make a new mount for the V6, but I feel like that is beyond my ability. Well, I think I could do it but it would take a long time...

>>2020012
I think generally you would use something like Cura's mold mode and then make a plaster mold from that. I could be wrong. But after you have the negative, you could probably use whatever medium you wanted to use to make the actual mold.

>>2020014
wide open nozzle. You want steady flow without to many unneeded turbulence.
The duct nozzles only job is directing the airflow horizontal to the bed and right below the nozzle tip

>>2018925
Paint it over. Maybe try an ultrasonic cleaner.

>>2020012
You'd be better off printing the master (i.e., the dice or whatever-it-is itself), making a silicone mold of that, and then using it. There's no silicone resins I know of, and even the most flexible SLA resins are way tougher than you'd want for molds.

>>2019997
ASA for heat and UV resistant parts.

>>2020031
The thing is the molds come in two pieces, one of which, a "lid" tightly fits inside the other (the main body), said lids is one of the dice facets.

Maybe a solid mold in multiple pieces is the best I can hope for.

i just installed a capricorn bowden tube on my ender yesterday. i printed stuff overnight and today when i went to change out filament it wont come out. i preheat the nozzle to 200c and it wont come out. i did have luck removing it by extruding like 50mm and then pulling on the filament.
any ideas whats causing this?

>>2020046
What did it look like when it finally extruded? Sounds like a clog

>>2020047
it was a little jumbled up at the beginning but then it just went straight thin line

>>2020049
Yeah that's a nozzle clog

>>2020043
So, get creative with your molds-for-molds. You'll have to make them out of something more than just a cylinder or box you pour silicone into

>>2020050
ok cool. i was afraid i fucked up something with the bowden tube.

>>2020046
you probably have filament clogging between the bowden and nozzle. when you install the nozzle you want to leave it a turn or two loose, but up the tubing, then finish tightening

>>2020055
shit. maybe i did fuck it up. all i did was take old white tube out, replaced fittings with the ones that came with the tube, and then shoved the tube as far as it would go. how do i go about unfucking my mistake? disassemble all of it and remove any plastic then do what you said?

>>2020059
yup, disassemble the connections from the tubing, also push some filament through will it's apart to make sure it's free of debris

>>2018249
my brother was looking for those too. he wants to get one of the laser cutters for it. he makes coin pouches and sells them for BANK on etsy.

Talk me what to fix

-ender5 stock

>>2019997
ABS
pla+
nylon

>>2020043
I thought you could make two part moulds by pouring one half while the object is embedded in some kind of putty then taking the putty away to do the other half. Have you tried that?

>>2020059
make sure you put a new perfectly straight cut on the end of the tube too otherwise a tiny gap could cause problems

>>2020104
/diy/ - Do It Yourself

What do you think of using halogen lights to heat up prints directly, rather than a fully heated volume? Has anyone here tried it? I know there was that NASA paper about the idea, but apart from that I can hardly find anything on the subject.

What kind of UV lamps do those washing/curing stations use? Just normal UV leds?

>>2020104
Talk us what the fuck did you do. Filament, temperatures, layer height, nozzle diameter, etc?

>>2020104
is that a 10/22

>>2020364
Looks like it.
Holes were probably undersized.

>>2020323
I think it would be brilliant.

>people printing items that come into contact with food
Is this stuff food safe? Sounds like a bad idea.

>>2020387
PETG is. You still have to be mindful of the layer lines.

>>2020387
Short thicc overextruded layers. If you can bake it in salt, better. If you can just use it as a negative mold for a silicone cast, or a positive mold for a negative silicone cast mold for a resin cast, best, as you can use any filament.

>>2020349
yep. you can build one with a high output uv blacklight.

>>2020323
I have not, but I print in a cool basement and my little printer bed only goes to 50º and can barely make that. I print PETG with a space heater pointed at the printer and it seems to work. It's one of those little fan driven desk heaters, certainly not efficient but it's a similar concept.

>>2020104
should have bought a prusa

Finally picked up some hardware for the monitor mount I printed in like December. The designer wasn't kidding about making the hole tolerances super tight. I think I need to print one of the linger arms or add an elbow to achieve what I want from this though. Also the design was for 75mm vesa but the monitor I have for this needs 100mm so that's printing overnight.

>>2020521
god speed anon
i dont think i would trust my monitor to one of those

>>2020521
I'd be a worried that the vesa-mount could shear along the layerlines, all the other parts are printed in a better orientation

>>2020521
>spends all that money on those meme keyboards and doesn't have the money for a proper mount

CAD users are mad I can create the same model using free software and free form modelling in a quarter of the time.

>>2018455
>>2018792
I've found it pretty handy, about to commit the sin of designing mechanical parts for print in Blender for my latest project, though, I reckon.

has anyone experience with coated heatbreaks? I ordered 2 different ones yesterday that claim low friction up to 400degree and no clogging. Lubing the filament is a bit tiresome and why not buy a quality part for once

>>2020584
I dont even know who you are.

Posted in tg, but relevant here. Organized my paint desk.

>>2020553
>>2020559
it's a beater monitor so no harm in trying.

>>2020579
>implying

>>2018378
You should try solvespace if you like suffering.

>>2019235
Bad quality pla

>>2020719
Living the meme

Direct drive anon from past few threads here.
Quite pleased with the upgrade.
I ditched the meme chain and made a few custom length cables.
My print quality looks great but I haven't configured extrusion, flow rate or anything aside from E steps.
Is there a good guide for fine tuning everything?

>1st time printing asa
>it warps off
>bed thermistor was set to 1 instead of 11

>>2020686
Don't know about others but I bought the microswiss e3d hotend and never looked back.

THIS IS A REMINDER
BACKUP YOUR CONFIGS
Backup your Octoprint if you use it
Backup your Marlin and/or Klipper or whatever
Backup your raspberrypi's if you have any
Backup your prints
Backup your slicer settings
self-host a file server or just syncthing maybe.
Backup yo shit!

>>2020686
>Lubing the filament is a bit tiresome
I beg your pardon?
People are lubing filament?
...with what?

>>2020742
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp3r921DBGI

>>2020767
Great! Thanks!

>>2020763
>Backup your slicer settings
Joke's on you, I don't have any prints that shared slicer settings. I always put in some settings that sound nice and it just works.

>>2020719
Are those old repurposed 3D printed laptop screens?

>>2020803
no, the 5:4 and 4:3 ones were like $3 each at Goodwill. I do have a bunch of laptop screens lying around but the controller boards for them cost more than just old whole monitors. If I ever repurpose the laptop screens it'll be because I need the low profile to make something stupid like this.

Pic related: fimally the Spamprinter Octopi is mounted! "customized" it by cutting a hole for the GPIO in the upper shell by using a prism in Cura without walls, infill, top, or bottom, and adding ventilation grids in the bottom shell with the same and 40% grid infill. Looks spiffy. The shells are in PETG because the Raspi gets toasty, and the mount in PET. Original from thing:4713922 .
>>2020764
Not him; most I've heard of was putting oil on the cleaning sponge. Suppositorily it reduces stringing but also reduces layer adhesion. I haven't tried it yet.
>>2020742
>Direct drive anon from past few threads here
Are you the same anon that nevers answers me which direct drive mount did you print? </3 Please do tell!

>>2020814
s/and the mount in PET/and the mount in PLA/

>>2020719
Yikes

>>2020361
230c temp
60c bed
Esun pla+
.12mm layer
.4 nozzle

I noticed slight warping and that’s probably my current problem.

I’m printing another slice using cura, no warping occurred until 6-8 hours in. 25hr print total

>>2020364
Yes

>>2020834
>>is that a 10/22
>Yes
These tragic boating accidents are contributing to the ocean microplastics problem now?

>>2020763
My marlin is literally a fork of the official repo so it's backed up on github. I just manually save my prusaslicer config on dropbox once every couple months

>>2020839
I don’t own a boat buddy. Apparently they’re for pussies that throw away guns.

>>2020854
I'm not sure whether you're missing the joke accidentally or "accidentally"

Used the electronics/connector bit from a car charger.

Used the electronics/connector bit from a car charger.

>>2020856
I’m not missing the joke. The joke is gay, atf can suck itself.

>>2020808
>something stupid like this
That's not stupid. It may be nuts, but not stupid.

>>2020698
Solid idea.

>>2020814
>>2020764
Depends on the oil. I forget what type though, some guy on youtube did a bunch of shear and tension tests on lubed vs non lubed filaments with a bunch of different oils, and found one type of oil that didn't affect the filament's layer adhesion strength.

I use CLP on a paper towel clipped to the filament right before the extruder. It really does help with stringing on PETG.

>>2020863
I'll give you that

>>2020104

>>2020834
I'm printing with similar settings to you with the same filament, Esun pla+ (Navy blue, not sure if the color makes a difference). 225c on hotend, 60c on bed, using a 5 line thickness brim. 0.4mm nozzle as well. I've printed with adaptive layer height from .12mm to .2mm, and haven't had the problems you have.

I'd just say to check your retraction (Cura's default 5mm is a bit much, especially if you've switched to an all metal hotend). The lower your retraction, the less underextrusion after a retraction since the filament doesn't have as much of a chance to cool down. Check esteps as well, make sure with calipers that 10mm of extrusion is 10mm of movement on the filament. If this happened mid-print, it could be underextrusion due to uncalibrated esteps.

Besides that, it looks like the print split at the smallest cross-section the radial force travels through on the hole for the barrel, on a layer line. If this happened during assembly and you're trying to slam an undersized hole of the receiver onto the barrel, it's just naturally the first place it's going to break.

So, make the hole larger, or reorient the print such that the layer lines aren't oriented parallel with the long axis of the barrel, this will also help with warping as you won't have one big long layer trying to cool. Another option is to turn down/off part cooling, the print will look worse but interlayer adhesion will be better.

>>2020865
stupid in a fun way, I mean.

I made a relay NOT gate :)

>>2020814
Must've slipped.
This is the one I've used
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4459700
And this is one of recommend
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3589452
Difference being the cable management, after installing and using it I've realized running the cable to the front is much better.

>>2020924
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3589452
Thanks anon, I ilyvm you very much

>>2020896
you mean you used two boards and a lot of wires to replicate what the relay on the bottom board already does? Why not just flip the relay and connect it directly to the outgoing terminals, suspended by the lid?

>>2020930
Aesthetics over functionality in this case, basically.

Yes, it does not make much sense for a single relay and future boxes will contain multiple relays and realize more complicated digital circuits. However, this is an exception.

I'm planning to start a channel like Clickety Clack (sadly now abandoned for 2+ years).
One video would be about logic gates. This specimen is a NOT gate, and I will make many more gates (AND, OR, XOR, NAND, NOR, NXOR).
I will also make a logic gate demonstration box (two tumbler switches on the front, light bulb on the top and power inputs on the back).
You put a gate like that in the box and demonstrate it.
I believe it would be nicer to put a cute little gate in a box instead of a mess of wires.

>>2020929
Keep me updated and tell me how it went! We can compare results

What is the most important variable for you: Cost, Quality, or Speed?

>>2020962
Speed.

>>2020962
speed unless the print time is between 4 and 24 hours in which case quality.

>>2020962
Quality (per dollar). Quality doesn't seem to scale with price or even brand in my experience.I've used printers ranging in retail price from $80 to $5,000 and the more expensive ones in the range don't consistently offer enough value to justify their price.

>>2020944
If I had the money I would create a relay computer like Harry Porter's

>>2020998
Yeah, they can get a little bit expensive. I've already sunk almost a 1000€ and will probably double or triple that in the future, haha.

>>2020983
Would you consider anything below 8 hours "fast"? Also, What industry do you work in?

>>2021006
>Would you consider anything below 8 hours "fast"?
Yes.
>Also, What industry do you work in?
I'm an embedded (routers) software engineer. 3D printing is part of my hobby and is completely unrelated to my job.

>>2019169
anyone?

>>2020719
LIVING THE DREAM

>>2021018
Yes, they should come standard.

>>2019169
blue springs > yellow springs

>>2020880
I’ll try your suggestions.
This is my 6th or seventh print so I’m still learning. Never printed before, I wasn’t expecting perfect prints in the first month

>>2021056
Did you make a calibration cube first?

>>2021057
Yeah, I’ve already printed bench models and calibrated my filament temp and settings.

I’ll be trying an adhesive for the first time today.

Currently printing the same model sliced in cura with tree supports and it looked more promising until it warped when I woke up this morning.

I’ll be looking to enclose it soon. A cheap solution should help some.

>>2020947
I'm afraid of snipping my bowden; I don't have any extra and a couple of customers owe me so I'm short on liquidity to buy more. I fear cutting my current stock tube would leave me without any way to revert to full bowden. I have some slack, so if I measure twice and cut once I may end up with a short but usable length. What length did you use between the extruder and the heatbreak?

>>2021066
>a couple of customers owe me
>so I'm short on liquidity to buy more

Holy shit bro, it's like $8 for 2 meters of PTFE tubing.

>>2021115
more like 3

>>2021115
Guess where my shithole falls on this diagram

>>2021126
Nordic countries?

>>2021131
He's in South America, so the very rightmost end of that chart.

I'm trying to build a marlin firmware for my skr 1.4 turbo but there is no example configuration for a creality CR-10 V3, just v2. The major functional difference would be the direct drive extruder, so I went with that. Is there any way I can sanity check my build before I upload it and bork the board? Thanks in advance.

>>2021131
God wish. At least the nordics get reliable international freight.

>>2021135
you chose the chip, build the binaries and if it succeeds you flash the board.
you cannot brick the board through flashing as the bootloader stays untouched. The 32bit STM boards really are idiot proof


Example configs are all memes, only trust what you configured yourself and go through all lines.
For example, ender 3 config specifies spread cycle chopper mode as the 12v even though the prusa mode is 5x quieter (due to the ender using bottom of the barrel steppers)

>>2020024
I did, thanks
>>2019006
You can't use that on PLA, i didn't burn it anyway but thanks btw

Is there a way to print an object higher using supports? I want to print a dice (one of those with more than 6 faces) and I don't want to it to directly touch the bed because it fucks up the numbers, and if I print it on an edge even if with a tree-type support it fucks it up even more
Basically, how to make supports higher?

>>2021169
taller*

>>2021169
just set it on a face and level properly

>left: good level
>right: bed too high

trust me I played with supports too and it doesn't work well at all.

>>2021169
>>2021179
however what you're asking for is a raft which might be okay actually, never tried with dice.

>>2021179
>>2021182
Thanks, I guess I have to level but first I'll try the raft

>get bathroom renos done
>print off a quick-change toilet paper holder
>renovator is really interested by my printing and talks about selling them to clients
i've been wanting to take on clients for prints to start a business since, just have to make some edits to the .stl and things should be kosher, right?

Trying to print TPU on an ender 3 with the aluminum extruder and direct drive, and it's not extruding at all.
Makes it about half way through the line at the start before the extruder gear just gives up starts spinning freely without actually pulling any filament. When I pull the filament back out it has a huge bend it in right where it meets the gear which I assume has something to do with it.
Anyone dealt with this before? I'd heard this extruder could handle flexibles at least acceptably well, was that just a fucking lie?

>>2021214
No, legally you have to redesign it from the ground up without even looking at the other one for any ideas whatsoever
You could check Cults and see if they have one with a commercial license, it's not much more than a regular plan

I printed a leveling test, how is it?

>>2021217
Change your start g code for the purge line, lower the extrusion on both lines by at least half. Beware, those g1 moves are absolute mpves, not relative.
Cura makes this line extra thick to compensate oozing during heatup.

>>2021228
If it looks cloudy you need to lower your bed a bit.

>>2021233
Too stupid/lazy to figure out the math for the amount to extrude in the gcode for the line, but removing it entirely and just using a long skirt seems to be working just fine.
I didn't think about the whole "Thick line -> extrudes a lot -> extruder turns fast -> filament bunches up in extruder" thing, thanks for your help anon.

>>2021214
Its a thin line. If you claim the product and design as your own you'll be hit with copyright and shit. But. If you print them and sell them in bulk to the renovator then hes just paying you a chunk for the time and material. Its in how you spin it.

>>2021142
> Idiot proof.
Perfect for me, then. Thanks for your advice.

>>2021141
>Argentinian
How hard is to just buy from a Chilean provider? I don't know about shipment or taxes but one meter of clone Capricorn tubing is about $6 there.

>>2021061
Top s3d slice
Bottom cura slice

Cura warped more but printer better quality, tree supports are amazing to remove. Going to try a 3rd print soon

>>2021242
that's how i was trying to spin it to him as i knew the intellectual property of it would fuck me, but if i sell my time and material then i would be clear until there was a cease and desist. however i could also make my own model of it with some changes to improve the cost, >>2021219 answer seems a bit too extreme to me about not being able to use any part of their design

>>2021246
You mean right and left.

>>2021179
>>2021182
dafuq?

>>2021169
you can turn off auto drop to build plate then just move it up. you don't want a raft, you want tree supports with it 3mm off the bed.

>>2021217
I had a similar issue with my first time printing tpu on my prusa. Lowering the print speed to 20mm/s and backing the idler tension screw all the way out fixed it.

>>2021245
Still counts as international shipping, so it's a gamble to get it through customs and there's still taxes on shipping and taxes on exchange on top of taxes on the sale. Were it not for Kung Flu, I could have a friend buy some and bring it unlabelled as personal luggage. But the local neofascist dictatorship is using Kung Flu as an excuse to basically completely embargo ourselves. Their plan is to run everything into the ground,"save" everybody with cheap cheap loans, and presto! Suddenly everybody is indebted to the st*te.

>>2018703
Check out the nutsnbolts library for OpenSCAD, it supports super easy generation of countersinks for standard nut and bolt sizes.

>>2021246
Enable brim to prevent warp.

>>2021255
Or you can just use SW's hole wizard.

>>2021259
What do wizards know about holes?

>>2021251
I'm doing first layer at 15mm/s and the rest at 25 and it seems to be working. I think it was literally just the slicer fucking with me with the half mile wide line at the start.

>>2021260
Locations, geometric standards and naming conventions.

Has anyone had any issues similar to this:
> Prints suddenly start stringing and printer is barely extruding
> Nozzle is clogged, replace nozzle
> Still barely extruding, replace bowden tube
> Still barely extruding, calibrate extruder multiple times
> eSteps/mm go from 90 to 230 and flowrate at 95%
> printing normally again
What could cause such a change in eSteps? Did I maybe fuck up my extruder?

>>2021066
Just cut the tip of any Bowden assembly. More than sufficient room, just measure from the extruder to the tip minus a bit and you're golden

Is batch-printing worth it? Or is it only worth it when you go to sleep and a single object will take less time than you will sleep? Or is it only worth it when you're fully confident you leveled the bed perfectly (with BLTouch or a dial indicator)? Is less setup time the only advantage?
Does going near the edges increase the probability of failure (because of shoddy leveling and whatnot)?
How much padding should I leave from the edge?
How much padding should I leave from different objects? Pic-related is 3mm.
Anything else I should know about batch-printing?

>>2021295
>batch
>only covering the bed
>not layering pieces on pieces with supports
git gud

>>2021295
yes, no, no, no, maybe, none, >5x nozzle width, no

>>2021275
if
> Prints suddenly start stringing and printer is barely extruding
> Do cold pull with nylon
> Printer works perfectly again
is similar, then yes. Yes I have.

>>2021299
You were using nylon filament and the cold pull cleared the blockage?

Why is it that mh build pla is stringier than hatchbox play, and overture is less stringy than either?

>>2021382
*pla

Does anyone here have or use one of those 3D pens for anything? I've been thinking about getting one. Currently, if I need to do a touch-up or something, I just use a bit of filament and my soldering iron. It melts it OK but the one I'm using is butane powered so it gets a bit too hot. So it's either get a 3D pen or use my actual variable soldering iron I use for electronics on the plastic.

Why is cura scaling so shitty and how do I fix it? Why can't I set X 150% Y 150% and Z 100%? And why does attempting to do so break cura?

>>2021501
Do you have them locked together?

New Thread
>>2021534

>>2021295
Make silicone molds and cast epoxy. Keep /3dpg/ updated on your relay project.

>>2021501
Breaking in what way? If you turn off uniform scaling you should be able to make the scaling in each axis whatever you want. Also, make sure it's still fitting in the build volume.

>>2021235
Thank you