/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Are there no bike enthusiasts on diy

hi, /n/ here. yes you could but it's not a good idea. you said it already the chain probably is on too tight, thus the hub in the back is kind of pulled until it touch the freewheel ratchety. I had one earliereither it's loose and skip or it's too tight and makes noice, pushed too hard once too many time and you might break the chain.

How does every other single speed address this issue?

>>201371
You removed the derailleurs.

Shifting bike chains and sprockets are meant to slip off, and be auto tensioned.

>>201373
There are different kinds of sprockets and chains meant for use with derailleurs? I thought they were all the same.

>>201378
Chains on shifting bikes are meant to fall off the sprockets. That is how derailleurs work. You will also notice it is sprung automatically adjusting tension and keeping the chain in the right place so it stays in the gear you want it to.

>>201386
What do you mean "it is sprung" ? So if I tension the chain just right, it should have no problems, right? Because then the permanent tension does the same thing a derailleur would

Op is a fag. You took off the cassette and that is what allows you to coast. You are so dumb that I literally want you to die. Why are you wasting your time with a shitty bike.

>>201437
I'm pretty sure the freewheel is what allows you to coast.
I waste time with this bike so I can learn, cheaply

You need to reinstall the rear derailleur. It also serves as a chain tensioner.
That is why it has the spring-loaded swingarm & extra sprocket.

>>201325 So far I have removed the derailleurs, shifters, and cables
You should have left the derailleurs on. They will help guide the chain and provide tension even though they're not actually shifting. If you look closely you'll see two bolts on each of them that set their default position. Most single speeds have chain tensioner. A rear derailleur will do the same job. The front derailleur is also useful for keeping the chain on the front gear.

> I couldn't remove any of the chainrings on the front so I just left it as is, put the chain on the second ring, and tightened it.
You need to get the gears lined up perfectly, especially if you aren't using any chain guides. Otherwise the chain will just fly off.

> The problem is that the chain keeps violently falling off. So I tightened it more.
This was the wrong idea. Unless your chain is slipping because it's loose tightening won't keep it on the wheel any better. If the chain is violently flying off instead of gently slipping it is not a tension issue.

Line up the gears and/or use something to guide the chain.

> Now, it stays on, but there seems to be a really strong tension, and it almost acts like a fixed hub.
You're pulling on it so hard the freewheel mechanism is locked up.

>>201394
>So if I tension the chain just right, it should have no problems, right?

It is most likely not /possible/ to tension the chain "just right". You can only make adjustments of exactly one link (or one half-link, if you want to be a dick about it) in size.

Purpose built single-speed bicycles have the chain length, sprocket size, and crank-to-axle distance all coordinated to make sure the chain tension CAN be adjusted "just right". In addition, they have sprockets designed to resist skipping, that can be used with lower chain tension than the sprockets on a multi-speed bike.

>>201459
Single-speed sprockets are also self-centering, so a slightly misalligned chain won't climb the edge and jump off.

>>201325
>department store mountain bike
You'll spend more on the replacement crank set and other parts than the piece of shit cost in the first place. Also, single-speeds and fixies are for faggot hipsters. You aren't a faggot hipster, are you?

>>201458
Thanks for this. Helps a lot. Makes sense now, I think the freewheel is in fact being tugged too hard and that's why it isn't "free" anymore.

>>201459
The bike has horizontal drop outs, so can't I adjust the chain just right by moving the wheel back and forth?

>>201494
I love the simplicity in the way they look, and I live in a flat land so no need for gears really.

>>201508
>The bike has horizontal drop outs

Ok, then you can.

I'd still use the stock derailleur to keep things lined up, especially on the rear.

>>201368

Lies, i work in a credible bike shop and race downhill and 4x, aswell as road riding, dirtjumping, and street / skatepark. I own 6 bikes equalling over $45,000

Now for OP, Start by going to a good bike shop and get a single speed kit, it includes the spacers needed and a cog, the cogs that come with cassettes have "shift teeth" which could cause the chain to skip or drop. Secondly, if you're bike has rear suspension you will need a chain tensioner to act as a derailleur to aid with keeping you're chain tight as the travel cycles and causes the chain to effectively grow in lenth. To do that, take you're old derailleur, cut the old shift cable from the stopper in the shifter about 6-10" and mount the deraileur like you normally would but with the stopper sitting in the seat where the cable housing enters, pull it to line up with the cog, that will keep you're chain tensioned properly.

The front chainrings you may not be able to get off, although there may be a bolt on the inside of the crank arm holding one or 2 of the chainrings on, could be 1 bolt or 4 - 5 bolts depending on the cranks.

I also recommend using the smallest chain ring and a cog thats 15-17 teeth for ease of pedaling with a 26" wheel depending on chainrings if there is 3 chainrings use the middle ( usually 32 or 36 tooth ) as big rings are usually 40-44 tooth, and tiny granny gears are 22-24-26 tooth are the most common. So pick the one thats medium sized and go for a 16-17T rear cog. Bigger in the front is hard and small in the rear is hard.

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