/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1957408
If you are asking a question, post your circuit diagram. No one cares about what flavor of diode you are using or their gigantic names.

What's a good place to find vintage or unusual buttons, switches, dials, etc?

What can I do to improve this mixer? I need it for a project.

also have a free mixer
>RF: ~200mV sine
>LO: 3.3V square from Si5351
>IF: filtered to output audio, ~250mV out

>>1957418
Jesus anon, your circuit is so messy I am almost reconsidering my suggestion to post circuits.

How high are regular vias? Will putting some vias under my SMD micro be a problem?

I am making second version of my RGB dog collar, this one will be almost fully smd and doublesided, so it will be only 30% the size of my original one, plus the battery will be attached to it, so the puppereeno won't have to lug around and external battery pack like in v1.
I can't wait for my good boy to dab on all the other doggos at the park at night

>>1957459
Post pictures of pupper and colar. Here in the north most dogorinos use them in winter.

>>1957451
DO you mean under the IC body (black square)? If so, yes. Vias directly under the pads need care

>>1957451
Depends on component but unless fab house is especially shit generally not an issue.
Pretty much all leaded components (SOIC, LQFP etc) will not care, QFN, DFN, LGA and similar might but during assembly components should sit on paste so again should not present issues.
With HDI boards it's different story but I doubt it's something you'll consider anytime soon.

>>1957465
Sorry I meant to say. "Yes you can do that, but directly under the pad need a little bit more care"

how does this work?
free smt assembly for my $2 order? wot? how would that even work if i have the components i need to use here at home?

>>1957545
learn2read
JLCPCB only assembles with SMT components they have available at their fab (LCSC catalog) with some limitations. You can't send your rusted components to them but PCBWay can

>>1957545
They have their own stock of common standard parts in their pick & place machines. Those are the ones that will be put on your board without any extra charge.
They also have a much larger stock of other parts but they cost an extra fee because they have to load them into the machine first.
Parts they don't have will be left empty.

>>1957557
holy shit thats amazing, why the fuck have i been pissing my life away with a soldering iron this long?
i will make so many fucking projects now
specially since like 95% of all components are like generic tiny caps and resistors and shit

>>1957562

giving people what they want for free; this is just pure communism.
be strong, dont be swayed. even if american big tech insist on raping your every hole, you must stand by them, and the sacred principles of savage capitalism. till death.

>>1957594
well i have to enjoy this while i can
the big EU cepitalist metal rod is about forcibly enter my asshole, where from the first day of 2021 ALL orders from chinks will go through customs, which will add 20% price as tax AND $15 flat fee for the customs handling AND you have to submit a bunch fo paper work, even if you order a 1 cent led.
But thank god for coronachan who came in clutch and made sure this idiotic law has been delayed by extra 6 months

>>1957600
We have that in brazil for a couple years now. It is not fun.
>any orders above 50$ have 50% tax, regardless of what they are
>orders bellow might get taxes as well, you need to submit a lot of paper work and appeal then (most people do not so they just keep the money)
>every international order has to pass customs in a single place in the whole country
>flat 15 reais to retrieve any international package
prepare urself

>>1957600

oh, you wretched EUropoors. i remember the bad old days of having to go to the shady part of town to get my chips and pay duty. there was just one old customs house for a city of 2 million, and you never knew what they'd charge. so unlike today, with Amazon next day delivery right to your door.

which capacitors and resistors should one stock for a babbies first order?
like which ones are very common and versatile and must have, if there is such a thing

for example 47 uF electrolitic cap and 220ohm resistor

sweeeeeeet
and now we play the waiting game

>>1957616
just buy one spool of everything
when society collapses you will thank me

>>1957618
i have some variety but i will just spend a couple bucks to increase it a bit more then just in case ty

>>1957616
You can buy a resistor/capacitor/LED/inductor "sample" book

>>1957629
Or instead of paying you can download the Kindle version for free

>>1957616
Also, pick up circuit boards from old TVs, radios/etc. Put them on a hot plate solder side down. Your electric kitchen range will do. Once it's hot, pick it up with some pliers and let it drop on the (clean) floor. Repeat a couple times, then sweep the liberated components and solder bits and sort/test them. The ones that stick to the board you can liberate by pulling and rocking around.

>>1957417
ebay

>>1957616
at least 10-20pc each for E6 series in each decade
>10ohm-10meg for resistors
>0.1uF-470uF for EL caps (you may only find E3)
>1pF-100nF for ceramic caps
and for common values: 1k, 10k, 100nF, 10nF, I'd go as high as 50-100pc

>>1957418
>JFETs
>without op-amp feedback
lmao i'd just use vactrols

>>1957600
>>1957607
I feel sorry for you guys. Here it's just a 15% flat tax on all imports that's automatically imposed on aliexpress's or ebay's checkout.
Then again, my waifuduino has been at customs for like a week now.

>>1957645
This. Though also 100k and 1nF.

>>1957616
https://www.amazon.com/Interstellar-Electronic-Assortment-Transistors-Potentiometer/dp/B07D1HVZ15/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=electronic+components+assortment&qid=1606010346&sr=8-3

Is there a simpler solution to dimming LED lightbulbs than buying something premade like this? I want to make a desk lamp but want to use a potentiometer instead of a slider. Is PWM the only way to dim these bulbs and I really do need a special controller, or am I overthinking it?

>>1957408
This isn't directly related to electronics but there is some crossover with the DIY PCB crowd.
I'm looking to see what people use as resist when they are etching PCB. I'm planning on using ferric chloride for the etching solution but haven't decided on a resist yet. Seems like some people use Sharpies, some people use masking tape, some people use certain acrylic paints. What do you guys think is the best resist? I'll be etching small pieces of brass.

THIS is my motherfucking vr instrument to interface with a physical device.

>>1958030
>want to use a potentiometer instead of a slider
Uh, a slider is a potentiometer.

>>1957616
i think it depends on what you making. i salvage tons of stuff. so i would say 470 /330 /220 /100 nf cap , 100/1k/10k/20k resistors.

so if its your first order and you are going to do a range of things 2 kits from amazon or ebay with a range of values would be good. or for resistors potentiometers would be better but cost more like $3 - 5 per. those also have kit assortments which are cheaper than buying all of them individually but in general you probably dont need 25

>>1958062
Rotary potentiometer, then

>>1957616
Get 100x of each value of the E96 series of resistors. All 1% metal film. Do not buy resistor packs from China. They fake carbon composition resistor advertised as MELFs. They will not typically be within the claimed 1% tolerance and the temp co is god awful. Buy your resistors individually from Digikey or Mouser. Do not trust ebay/amazon or elsewhere.
This is even more true for capacitors. Get caps following the E24 series of preferred values. You want ceramic caps in the from 10pF or so to 10uF. You want poly caps in the range of 1nF to 1uF, you want electrolytic caps in the range of 0.1uF to 1000uF get 50V caps for typical projects and a handful of 400V caps if you want to do any mains voltage or higher stuff. Ceramic and poly are all typically rated 400V to 1kV so you don't have to worry as much, only electrolytic you need to pay attention to. Only Japanese brand caps for electrolytic. Nichicon, Rubycon, Nippon Chemicon, Panasonic, etc. Again 100x of each. Maybe only 20x for high voltage electrolytic.

Also get some high power resistor like 5W or higher and get some really high resistance like 1G too. They're useful in certain applications.

Plan to spend $500-$1000 on it all.

>>1958065
So take the board out of the housing, slap it in a new housing, and wire in a panel mount rotary pot of the same value then. You shouldn't need to make any other modifications. A slide pot and a rotary pot do the same thing, as long as you get the same value it'll function the same way.

>>1958071
The thing is I'd like to make a bunch of these and those switches cost ~$13/ea. I don't want to pay that much for $5 in parts and a half hour of soldering and be left with a bunch of plastic waste. I CAN, if there's no other option, I'd just prefer not to.

>>1958073
Look around on amazon or alibay, there should be plenty of different variants. Not sure if they work with LEDs, or even if your LEDs work with dimming though, that's for you to figure out.

>>1958077
I do know the LED bulbs I have are dimmable but the problem is finding dimmers that work with mains voltage

>>1958078
*that work with mains voltage and are designed for LED bulbs

>>1958079
IIRC there's nothing particular about a mains dimmer that would or wouldn't work with a particular LED bulb. Look into the circuits used by dimmable LED bulbs (big clive probably has a few teardowns of them) to see what makes a dimmer compatible with them.

My hunch is that any phase-fired dimmer (leading or trailing edge) should work with a dimmable mains LED.

>>1958043
sharpies are a pain. if you swish them around gently and the surface isn't clean enough, they'll flake off. The acid etch will also leech through and give the copper a matte brick orange color that needs to be burnished down and tinned immediately, or it goes black

>>1958117
I was thinking of using alcohol ink and applying it with a brayer. I guess people who have etch knives use asphaltum but that sounds kind of hard to work with,

>>1958043
I've tried all sorts of permanent markers, they're all no good. Nail polish worked a treat for me, but it's a bit of a pain to apply evenly. Takes a good scrub with acetone to get off, but that's not too much of an issue compared with the etching process itself.
The guys with laser cutters just rattle-can their copperclad and laser off what they want to etch.

I've moved on from hand-drawing traces because it's awful for anything serious, buying some iron-on photoresist, sodium carbonate, and some inkjet transparencies. The cheap photoresist is a bit uneven though, and I haven't gotten around to building a proper lightbox for it so my exposure times are hit-and-miss. But for those of us using photomasking (or lasers), we also have the opportunity to add a solder mask; UV curable solder mask is pretty cheap and readily available.

On the other hand, plated through-holes are a nightmare for a hobbyist to obtain. Vias are probably acceptable just by soldering solid core wires, but the equivalent of THT rivets just don't cut it for me. Which is why I'm transitioning to SMT only. Since I mainly have THT parts, this means making custom KiCAD footprints for them with their legs folded flat.

Note there's also the routing school, some of whom just use well-levelled boards and a V-bit, others use those spring-loaded bits to provide sufficient pressure for carving off an etch resist. But either are more expensive and give probably worse quality than using a laser, the only benefits being speed of direct routing.

>>1958043
I just cut slots in the copper clad with a knife

I'm using a dual op amp relaxation oscillator & integrator to create a square & tri wave low frequency oscillator for a synthesiser module. It's easy getting it to run on a +12V single rail supply but somehow harder with a +-12V dual rail supply. To those with experience in synths, is there a point in using AC power for control voltages?

would this work as a charger for my 2S lipo battery?

>>1958204
microusb cable would be plugged into just one of those so that is why they are connected

I've got an old Marshall VS100 guitar amp, it buzzes like a motherfucker. Most of my electronics knowledge comes from being an auto elec, what are some basic things I can check to try and fix or reduce the noise? The problem is definitely in the amp, I tried the guitar with another amp and it was fine.

>>1958204
That is not a circuit diagram. Go back to your guitar forums.

>>1958211
Reflow the solder on the 1/4" jacks & volume/tone pots, and make sure all of your grounds are solid.

Goddamnit guys
>How do I tell what value this yellow SMD capacitor has
>What is this black 2-contact "SS14" part
>What is this black 4-terminal AAr37 part
>What is this 8-pin LS2811 chip (okay that's a charge controller)
>What is this 8pin unlabeled chip (okay I managed to find out it's some PWM ASIC and I know which pin the PWM output is, so that's all I need)
>3-pin black NO191
>5-pin black "AB34"
>Some little coil with "2R2" on top
>little brown SMD caps I don't know the value of
>little black SMD resistors with white labeling I could probably try to measure?
>3-pin black "2TY"
I just want to learn electronics but like this I'll never be able to replicate or build a 3,7V battery charger/led driver/dimmer
AAAAAAA
How do I do this? Should I throw away the old board and just make my own?
Goddamnit

>>1958240
Having a schematic is 90% of the battle. Short of that you need to research more and acquire the proper tools of the trade. It takes time to develop a skill set, even more when it's just a hobby.
Start small and keep it simple. Use common components in uncomplicated circuits. Don't try to reinvent the wheel.

Is there anywhere I can get motorized slide potentiometers for cheap? Struggling to find them for anything under around $20 (CAD) each.
I wanted 16 for a project but don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on them.

>>1958204
Yeah but this charges at 1a so dont use it with batteries under 500mah since rec current for lipos is 1c

>>1958250
O-okay
I guess I'll just have to doodle up the approximate shematic in KiCAD and ask more knowledgeable people what the values might be.
Pic related, it's that damn circuit board but I think it's probably not worth salvaging.
But I feel I have to go through with it and gain some understanding as I already lost so much time on it.
Man, so many vias!
It's a board that
>charges a LiPo
>connects 5V 1A AC adapter
>drives 3W LED with constant current

>>1958267
Is the LED itself dead? Are there any burned or missing components? Is anything getting hot to the touch? Any bulging, leaking, or shorted caps?
Start with the power supply and work your way down. Probe for voltages with a multimeter to narrow down problem areas.

>>1958267
start from the basics, not by reverse engineering an entire 2 sided smd board. Do you know how battery charging works? If you are just learning electronics YOU DO NOT need to order boards from china. I do not know why there are so many newfags here doing that. Just get a breadboard and play a bit

>>1958272
It works, I just want to make this thing prgrammable. I have a STM32 bluepill laying around and I want this thing to work like an alarm clock so it gradually turns on the light until it also starts beeping a piezo once full brightness is reached and my waking-time has arrived.
Basically all I hav to practically do to make this happen is connect the Bluepill in there and then bend up the pin marked blue in this edited version of the picture. That is the PWM pin of the unmarked ASIC to the top of the PCB
I could use that PWM output as an input of the Bluepill with a capacitor and a DAC port to use the lamp normally and then make the Bluepill controll that pad on the pcb instead, preserving the original function of the PCB

>>1958273
I have played a bit, my problem is just this:
I want to see how a professionally designed PCB works and I don't know how to find out the values of the parts on the board
The constellation and how it's wired I can do I think.

>>1958278
Does the PWM IC have legible markings on it? The datasheet can tell you many things.

>>1958282
The PWM Chip is unmarked, but I verified it's giving out PWM on that pin by hooking it to a scope

>>1958278
>>1958282
>PWM pin of the unmarked ASIC
Oops, nevermind.

>>1958285
I just wired it up, I can touch the point marked purple with my finger to run the lamp on half-mast, fully on and off.
M-maybe I should just put it together again, go after my menial work where I don't really learn any proper electronics and hang myself eventually, I am too stupid for this.

can you use regular kitchen oven to reflow shit or do you need some super special tmperature
i can't probably use a heatgun with a stencil since it will blow components away

>>1958297
Put it aside and come back to it on another day. You'll learn what you need eventually, as long as you have an interest.

>>1958298
You could, but the idea is to limit the heat time of the board & components just long enough to liquefy the solder paste so as not to damage anything. If it's a single-sided PCB you'd be better off putting it in an old skillet or hot plate.

>>1958303
Yeah, I guess I'll go for a walk and then just not care about how the rest of the circuit work and just apply my plan to the board and put the Bluepill in there after I figure out how to use the built-in RTC on that thing to do what I want it to do and hook up that seven segment i2c display.
Still, I feel like I'll never be able to catch up to those that started with 16-17y/o with this stuff. I could have a degree at this point and instead I'm in a dead-end job-"training"

Is it a good idea to get "The Art of Electronics" and the accompanying Excercise book and just work through that from start to finish? I have the feeling I need structure and am losing a lot of time on basic stuff that could be learned quicker if it were all learned in one swoop in a concentrated effort.
Here's the setup, picrel

>>1958307
well i don't solder often enough to justify buying even a chink reflow owen so i guess i will have to stick to hot air
on the plus side solder paste is a fucking nightmare anyway it expires too fast

What is the best soldering alloy and why it is 60% tin, 39% lead and 1% antimony

>>1958322
>I feel like I'll never be able to catch up
It's never too late to begin, and once you get the basics down the rest comes naturally with time and experience.
>Is it a good idea to get "The Art of Electronics" and the accompanying Excercise book and just work through that from start to finish?
Maybe not start to finish, but yes, it's a good idea to have printed reference material.

>>1958323
How big is the board?

>>1958333
>printed reference material.
Oh, but yeah, it's probably more easily handled if I print it out for ref rather than have it in an eReader

>>1958333
Get the Art of Electronics "X" Chapters too. Full of little goldmines. I was hoping to a find a PDF but it doesn't seem anyone has scanned it yet so I had to buy a physical copy.

>>1958338
>it's probably more easily handled if I print it out for ref
It's a must for schematics at least.
>>1958339
>Art of Electronics "X" Chapters
Nice, thanks for the recommendation. I have no problem paying for good technical books.

We had bought new outdoor christmas lights and I decided to snip off the connectors and power supply of the old ones. Tell me /ohm/, is it too late for me, am I a lost cause now?
>Also this fucking thing delivers 220V DC

>>1958355
Are you sure it's not 220V AC? 220V DC seems like odd thing

>>1958357
>Are you sure it's not 220V AC? 220V DC seems like odd thing
Yeah I had to do a double take at that too, but it really is 220V DC. I guess it only rectifies the current and doesn't touch the voltage

>>1958358
>I guess it only rectifies the current and doesn't touch the voltage

This always stumps me, when the signal has AC voltage but DC current.

>>1958322
You are trying to understand a car engine by tearing it apart. (without ever having done that before) Learning like that is very hard.

You said you know the basics so if I were you:
>since I know the function of the board I can try to replicate it
>it has several little function blocks
>PWM to control a LED
>sense user input
>connection of user input to LED
Can you control a LED with PWM? Can you sense user input? Can you use that input to control LED? If so, compare your solution to whatever you have there. Maybe the black boxes suddenly will not be so black now. If you can't do any of those things then you do not know the basics. And the fact it is a commercial product does not change this, their way of working is not different from something you scrape together with copper clad.

>>1958358
> I guess it only rectifies the current and doesn't touch the voltage

>>1958347
>It's a must for schematics at least.
Yeah, I'll have to ask someone to print it for me heh

>>1958334
really? we are board size shaming now?

>>1958355
>Also this fucking thing delivers 220V DC
obviously.
if you run ac through a led it will get killed instantly, they can't handle reverse current
it's just a simple bridge rectifier which turns ac into shitty dc

>>1958363
I know how it works enough to integrate my functionality should I also figure out how to make the Bluepill keep time and start lighitng up the LED at a set time in the morning, I already fiddled a bit with Arduino.
Only reason I wanted to get a shematic was so that I might make my own pcb in the future, it's a steep learning curve for sure, so I should just buckle down instead of complaining now. I'm gathering the datasheets of the components in the Circuit.
What I'd like to ask you:
Is there any easy way I can figure out what values the resistors, capacitors and that one coil on the circuit.
Once I have my shematic I think I am actually capable of piecing together what each section does roughly and maybe even precisely if I take my time. I just don't know how to get the schematic out of it, but maybe I am focusing on the details too much, knowing just where all the caps/resistors are connected might be enough already.
But just in case you can help me: how do I know the value of the resistors/caps on the board? The resistors I can measure, but the caps are gonna be a problem without desoldering and these measuring-tweezers, right?

>>1958374
2R2 = 2.2uH. The unmarked capacitors are better measured outside the circuit. If you do not have a LCR meter you could try measure it with the step response with a scope. Again you are missing my point. If you know what the circuit does, and what functional blocks it has, then the values of components are secondary and can be guessed pretty easily.

>>1958381
on a side note, anything is better measured outside the circuit.

I don't know anything about electronics, but I want to make a red light setup using strong red LEDs for my grandpa with parkinsons

how do you make sure your creations don't have high EMF?

>>1958387
The european minigolf federation does not care about LED lights.

>>1958387
>How do I stop lights from emitting electromagnetic radiation

>>1958381
Sorry for not understanding. I didn't look at enough circuits to guess what the values could be from context. I just have to do the dirty work and make a schematic without values for now. Then my pestering Anons here won't be as pointless since I can as "what might capacitor X be doing there and what value could it possibly have?" instead of "uhhmmm? I don't know what to do".
Yes, I have components laying around, PWM can be done with the Bluepill itself, charging the LiPo I'd have to look into it, they probably didn't use that LS2811 chip for no reason haha. Controlling the LED I'd have to look up how constant current drivers work and I'd let the output of the CC driver be switched with a PWM signal going into a Mosfet or something.
I just wanted to figure out if I'd be able to "copy" this board to see in what aspects the commercial cheap mass-produced product varied in it's (no alarm-clock function) approach to charging a LiPo, handling the Regulation and dimming and apart from details I think I already answered my questions. Sorry for being so indecisive.

>>1958383
Yeah, that's what I already heard others say and it probably isn't that important for understanding it anyways. Reading appnotes of the WS2811 would probably give a fair hint on the used values around that region if it mattered.
I'll go back to KiCAD now, it's not like I don't know how to place components in KiCAD to get my stupid schematic. :D

>>1958387
Oh, no no, you wanna go with a neon instead. LEDs are notorious for having a strong EMF. There are ways to tame it somewhat but it's advanced electronics and not really suitable for a beginner.

>>1958395
Can't i like, build a faraday cage around it?
>>1958392
I think certain ready lamps you can buy don't emit significant amounts

>>1958416
I was being facetious. Light literally is an electromagnetic wave. Without getting into a /sci/ debate, what are you worried about and is it more important than whatever your light project is for?

>>1958416
Yes but then you can't see the LED. Remember, you can't put a cutout in the cage for the LED to poke through because all the EMF will just leak out that hole. It needs to be FULLY enclosed.

>>1958416
put the lamp inside a closed metal box.

>>1958422
That's not how faraday cages work
>>1958420
There are certain dubious health risks of dirty electricity and I don't want to do anything to endanger grandpa, maybe there wouldn't be any risk if it wasn't supposed to be as a hat. Oh well, he happens to be an electrician, but I wanted to surprise him, and he lives in another city.

>>1958428
put the lamp in your pee hole
then pull it out and put it in your butthole
that should shield it well enough

>>1958428
>That's not how faraday cages work

Get a load of this retard.

>>1958429
Thanks

okay what's preventing a competitor from making an UltraHDMI mod for the N64? game-tech has been sold out for a year. N64 emulation for consoles is in a truly fucked state

>>1958435
Virtual Boy was Nintendo's worst console. N64 was the second.

>>1958441
I bet I hate things that you love too. Let's keep it a hardware discussion in /ohm/ shall we

>>1958443
It is a hardware discussion.
Tiger wristwatch games > N64

>>1958428
Even if dirty electricity had been properly verified, logically as an electrician he would have been subjected to way more than a few LEDS worth. Even so, after a brief search, light therapy for parkinsons still seems to be at a research level. Unless you can get the placebo effect going, you'd be better off building him something that increases his comfort (e.g. automatic house lights).

>tfw learning about e series to figure out which sets of component values i need to go for
thanks lads

>>1958444
Wash your hands after you solder the effects are showing kek

>>1958443
Hey faggot, I just wanna remind you, Sega does what Nintendon't.

>>1958449
I always wear two POWER GLOVES™ when soldering.

>>1958445
Yeah, but he also happened to get parkinsons so that doesn't really demonstrate the safety of dirty electricity. And research is to establish validity, not enable it. If in ten years they prove it works, then you'd just wish you started ten years earlier. There's also a bunch of patients who say it works, and red light is very well established to have fundamental protective effects, possibly with systemic effect, so it wouldn't be out of the ordinary. Worst case, it doesn't help against parkinsons but slightly rejuvenates his tissues. You can look up phd michael hamblin, he's an expert on the subject at harvard.

>>1958458
>Bunch of patients say it works
I didn't say that it was or wasn't effective, I said that it's still in its research stages. Considering that you said you didn't know anything about electronics, I'd wager that there's creature comforts you can provide that would 100% benefit your grandfather rather than a potential benefit from building a light hat.

>>1958458
Why don't you rent a whore for your dear old grandpa instead?

>>1958466
He's perfectly capable of taking care of himself so far, but he's not a biotechnology masters like me, so it's my duty to apply my specific knowledge. But whatever, I'll probably ask him about the build details.

>>1958204
No. You've connected the inputs in parallel but the outputs in series. This would be fine if they were isolated, but those modules are distinctly not isolated; in- and out- are connected together. By wiring up your circuit like that you'd be shorting cell 2 directly, not a good idea.

And no, computer USB ports are not isolated from one another. To get this to work you'd need isolated power supplies. There are some 5V-to-5V isolated power modules, though I'm unsure if they can handle the 1A of current or whatever a TP4056 can do.

If you mess about with making a power supply out of a 12V brick and some push-pull voltage regulating circuit (op-amps, class-B, etc.) then you could probably get it running without issue by putting the two inputs in series too.

>>1958240
Search "smd codebook", that should help you somewhat.
>I just want to learn electronics
You don't do that by reverse engineering a modern cost-optimised circuit with no documents. Those things frequently have components that are difficult to modify. If anything, you should be studying an old amplifier or gen-3 computer that has a service manual to download. But either way doesn't really teach you the basics at all. Study from the ground up, not from the top down.

>>1958278
How much power does the LED require? Less than 5W, obviously. If it's a buck converter (i.e. just one LED in series, a bunch in parallel), then just make your own linear current regulator and PWM controller with the STM32 itself. Use a TP4056 for lipo charging. Ditch that purpose-made circuit, it's more trouble than it's worth.

Trying to connect pots in series for a variable resistor with coarse & fine adjustment. Plugging them into the breadboard works fine but when I solder them together with wires they start acting (need to be jostled around to work). It's definitely not a problem with the wire connections; Are there any other factors I should be aware of (e.g. the third pin)?

>>1957408
I need some help. Im restoring a 1950s tube radio and each section of the filter cap uses a very different value. Problem is i dont know which wire connects to each section other than the common ground

>>1958490
Most multimeters have a continuity function that beeps when you make a connection between either probe (e.g. touching each end of a connection). Otherwise, you could run the length of the wire with your finger and draw it out.

>>1958493
The capacitor doesnt say which wire is connected to which section and it is dead. I know where the wires go i just dont know which capacitor inside theyre connected to. Its a multisection cap, basically 3 caps in 1

>>1958496

the two high-voltage caps are pretty close so you could just chance it, reverse them if something is not quite right. the low voltage cap is quite different, and you can determine which wire is used by it by measuring which wire has around 10Vdc across it.

a busy board

>>1958516
noice
wat does it do?

>>1958524
VFD to OLED converter. i picked up a fluke 8840a for $40 with a broken display.

>>1958516
>>1958526
Would it not be easier to use 7-segment displays? Since the data is already in that format.

>>1958526
Very nice. How much better is the OLED display readability? Can you invert fore/background colors?

>>1958483
>Ditch that purpose-made circuit, it's more trouble than it's worth.
I think I'm gonna do that and cut my losses. I even made sure to get exactly aligned photos and started tracing in GIMP and wanted to rebuild the circuit in KiCAD
but yeah, just using a TP4056 is probably more sensible than dicking around with the WS2811 on board.
The LED is a 1WLED, draws ~350mA at ~3V I think, eventually I might just build my completely own thing and throw all this junk out (or give it to a friend lol).
It's just been a little entertaining to figure out what the parts on the purpose built circuit were and so I guess I got my costs worth. Just figured out the PWM output and the CapSense input pins on that unmarked ASIC too.
I guess I could keep using that now just to have something that works. If I fry the chip with my 75W iron then I have an excuse lol
As for finding old stuff to dick around, I don't really have that. The best thing I could think of is a project-based approach to learning. Maybe building from the ground up is much better than trying to hack some already existing stuff into something I like. And probably more educative.
I guess I'll roll my own when I build a light with more than 1W, it's kinda dim.

>>1958533
there's a lot going on unfortunately. i did consider using LED anyway. but the power source is a 4.5VAC tap intended for the VFD cathode, and the LEDs were going to draw too much current from that by my estimate.

>>1958475
>>1958466
Biomed here, setting up your LEDs would be easy. The difficulty would be in getting the right colour mix of LEDS (does it need UV light as well?). That being said, I don't know how a masters student can fall for the EMF meme considering that an MRI is a massive fucking electromagnet.

>>1958547
>1WLED, draws ~350mA at ~3V
1W is trivial to drive with a linear current source. But considering it's battery powered, doing so will drop your battery life by 2/5ths. Making a little buck converter should be easy though, control it with the STM32 if you want.

>>1958540
readability is yet to be determined. i'm salvaging an OLED from a chinese ebay board; that board was poorly designed and would cause the display to dim with too many pixels active. i think i'll fix that problem with a beefier boost converter but we'll see. i may need to invert the display like you said.

>>1958561
I think the buck-converter part is what the Coil on the PCB is about
In the long run this battery stuff was just a gimmick if you ask me.
It was just some stupid discounter lamp
I wouldn't care for a battery in my own lamp to be honest, that's what a flashlight is for lol

>>1958490
Are you going to put the new electrolytics inside of the old paper tubes?

>>1958555
Nah, color isn't a problem, it seems you can buy pretty much any frequency of light (ending in zero) fairly easily.

>>1958566
Well it's meant to be an alarm clock in the end, right? Depends on whether he wants to have it plugged into a USB wall supply or not.

>>1958588
I am him
>USB wall supply
That's my plan right now, I'll ditch this 5V 1000mA wallwart (cracked it open and did other mischief) I had until now, solder on a USB wire and use the old charger of my broken mobile phone
5V 2A so a bit of headroom lol
If I ditch the battery I could already use up to 5-6W safely I think. Or will my phone charger start protesting? I guess that little green circuit board is trash as was the entire lamp. I won't try to hack something in the future if it doesn't either have real value or is a quick fix
I want to get stuff done, enough procrastinating.
>just plug it into the wall directly and use a 100W led lol, you won't sleep through your alarm xD

>>1958591
In that case it will be pretty simple to just use a linear constant current supply of some sort to power the LED, one that can be PWMed by the STM32. LM317 is one of the easiest, but it might not work with under 2V of headroom, so I’d lean towards using a BJT current mirror or something with a TL431. STM32, current source, LED, and buzzer, is about all you need for this as far as I can see.

CircleSaw anon here, back with an update
>cut out switch and wire motor directly to DC psu
>it spins
>victory.wav
>hotwire ac power cord to motor
>nothing, WTF?
>power cord doesn't have continuity in one wire
>find massive gouge in power cord
>switch works just fine
>mfw I tore this whole thing apart and the problem was this obvious
The previous owner said it just "stopped working".
Thanks for all the help, guys. And remember to check for the obvious solutions first.

>>1958892
All's well that ends well, got yourself a mean deal on a practically working tool. The switch fits back in nicely, I hope?

I'm looking to get into soldering and electronic repair. I saw the TS100 recommended along with the TS-C4 and TS-KU tips.
>https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32860309312.html?
Any feedback or better recommendations?

>>1958901
If you don't need something portable, then a T12 soldering station with K and D12 tips is possibly better.
Bevel tips are best for drag soldering, for general use a chisel tip of some sort is better, I find.

>>1957408
how likely is it that i've fucked up this board?
i had a broken socket and managed to remove it, however i have 1 lifted pad and one partially lifted (next to it) on the socket side.

there's no trace on top that it runs to as far as i can tell and the side i'll be soldering to is still present, so will it work or no?

if not i can get a new board for £30 off the bay.

>>1958896
I have to solder the wires back together. Two are braided (ez pz), two are solid.

>>1958901
>>1958910
A TS100 can use T12 tips (with an adapter)

>>1958960
Can't see any trace on the top-side so you're fine. If it's actually connected to GND then you can bodge that on the bottom, but it doesn't look like it. I'm actually impressed that you got it that far without damaging anything. What desoldering aids did you use?

>>1958992
Yes, and? A T12 station's handle is significantly more ergonomic, not to mention lighter, and shorter compared to a TS100 with the adapter. I also prefer having a flexible silicone cable, which you don't get with a TS100 unless you make or buy one specially.

Also consider waiting for a Pinecil or getting an updated TS80.

Are there any EEbros here? Can someone point me to a retard-proof tutorial on how to implement signal convolution using a DCT? I'm getting really confused by how to properly zero-pad the filter and the convoluton isn't working right.

t. retard

>>1959027
just a solder sucker (and a shit load of flux paste) but couldn't get the top left and right joints to heat up (i think the conical tip is to blame), so i used some tin snips to break the socket and then removed the pins by hand with an iron and some pliers.
eventually i got those stubborn ones out.

>>1958960
>so will it work or no?

i've repaired boards with much more damage than that. just make note of which pins are suspect, then after soldering, do continuity tests, and jumper any traces that are open.

as for avoiding damage in the first place: cut off each pin of the chip with side cutters, then desolder them one by one. you destroy the chip but save the PCB.

>>1959029
That's mostly a mathematical question. If the usual stackexchange sifting doesn't suffice, you'd probably be best off asking /sci/. IIRC there were enough computational guys over there to know what you're on about.

My advice is to mess about in python or matlab or whatever to figure out an algorithm that works generally, before porting that to your DSP whatsit.

>>1959060
Get a 1.2mm chisel tip. Conicals are for plebs.

>>1959073
>cut off each pin of the chip with side cutters, then desolder them one by one
Pretty sure that's what he was doing, because it was only a shitty socket (>>1959060). I know I wouldn't be able to pull that desoldering job off without snipping and just having one cheap solder sucker. With a vacuum soldering tip or desoldering needles it would be much easier.

On a side note, what kind of wire is that on the bodge?

>>1958960
>Amiga 500
Built like a tank. Sure it'll be alright once you solder a new socket.

>>1959074
>what kind of wire is that on the bodge?

30 gauge wrapping wire. yellow is what the real pros use. and they tack it down with a drop of crazy glue for extra autism points.

Whats this connector called?
It's something a speaker expects to be used for its connection to a regular 2 wire amplifier connection

Speakers in question are "Saba Ultra Hifi Box 1240"

>>1959167

And these speakers seem to be beautiful 1980 technolgy.

TLDR:
What to put on end of cut twin and earth to be legal. Australia.

I have a stupid question for an electrician. From Australia.
I’m removing a hardwired stand alone oven out of kitchen.
My question is how do I terminate the twin and earth cable that I will cut to remove oven? Such that no one dies and the house doesn’t burn down. Is there a fitting I can put on the end of the cable? I want it to be done legal such that won’t get done over by insurance if something else happens.
Circuit will remain off afterwards.
Will get a professional to install something as a replacement eventually (probably a dishwasher) so want to keep cable available/accessible.

>>1959190
Wire nuts and electrical tape.

>>1959168
Never saw that before. Are you going to cut it off or make adapters?

>>1959203
Hopefully she'll be using it to connect the speakers to a TUBE amplifier by the same company.

I found it out by beeing a retard and googling
"Speaker cable saba"
I'm researching this for a women who sold me a pair of perfectly fine Magnat 130W speakers for 20 bucks locally and after I tested them on sight with the warning that she might want to keep them we came to a deal that ontop of the 20 bucks she asked for these I can offer her tech support and the like in the future. So these are not mine and yes you are my unpaid employees. Ill go out today and buy more speakers from other people because holy fuck they are all this cheap. Saw some decent 5.0 amps too for 50 bucks with 5x100watt capability which is quite amazing. People dont seem to know that a speaker without amp and the opposite is far from trash

Ahhh shopping is so much easier than doing what I should be doing when prices are this insane

>>1959204
lmao
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ml6S2yiuSWE

>>1959168

ikea uses the same connector for low-voltage lamps.

>>1959192
Those are them!! Didn’t know the name. Do you know if that’s legal? Don’t feel like getting fucked over

>>1959190
Don’t get me wrong most opinions are this:
“ No self respecting Australian electrician would use wire nuts, frankly they are a joke in the trade and one that we give the Americans a whole heap of shit for.

If you're considering DIY electrical work, that is bad. If you're considering DIY electrical work with wire nuts, you should turn off the power to your house and use candles and batteries from now on.”

But it’s removing an oven and making its cable safe. not installing a plug or multiple other scenarios

>>1959257
I don't know if it's legal, but wire nuts and a few wraps of electrical tape will suffice until you install your dishwasher.

>>1959260
Railgun capacitor bank

>>1958910
>>1958992
>>1959027
Thanks, I will look into it. Always good to compare options. I'm really just starting out. Also forgot to mention I plan on doing logic board repairs one I got the hang of.

>>1959260
>No self respecting Australian electrician would use wire nuts,

yet engineers recommend them?

>oh cool sale on pots, i could stock up on various values for my lab
>order 200 of various values
>they arrive
>use one
>they're all logarithmic
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK

>>1959278
Nice

I'm going to try using a solder mask to see if it is worth the trouble or not, since the pcb works without it too, so if the hassle is too much i will just toss it
i got this thing lying around i made, for like a year now and never got around to trying it out, it has uv leds with the exact wavelength to cure solder mask so we shall see
i hope solder masks don't expire since it is also over a year old now

>>1959348
Should be fine so long as it wasn't left out in the sun.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSpgLLAPxl8
hmm this would probably be actually very easy to build, all you need is a $200 chink 3D printer and just replace the extruder nozzle with a small vacuum tube instead
and then lay down some tapes with components to pick up and youre done
the hardest part would be definitely the software, the picking and placing would be relatively fine, but i have no idea how to do alignment
real PAPs use a camera and AI which sees if the component is tilted and such and rotates it, but you wouldn't probably need it for caps and resistors and such

>>1959471
Every time i want to build some pcb automation i get excited but then i realize i only need to make line one small pcb every 3 months with like 20 components tops on it so this would be a huge waste of time and money and just take up space
shit suxx

So i tried to fix my broken electric oven.
Problem was the contact point as seen from the pic, one of them wear out and it was very thin. So i wrapped some random wire around it to make it thick and resistant. At first try, there was smoke coming from the wire but i think the heat welded it to the contact. Will i be fucked if i use it like this?
(Btw original form is like the one in the right, left is the one i did)

I have a small poject and need some direction.

What I want, basically, is a system that can control relays and display status on a 7" IPS lcd in a certain font and style.

It just has to list the accessory, such as "LIGHT" on one side with a button next to it, and on the other side say either "STANDBY" or "ACTIVE" depending on its status.

Would I control this with a rPi or arduino board? rPi has the HDMI and detail support that I'd like, but it has to just power on and work, and form what I've seen rPis have to boot into an OS, then you have to pick the script and run it, which isn't optimal given its use. I'd like to just have it power on and work.

Optimally there's a high definition option for arduinos but I havent found them, any input is helpful.

>>1959552

replace that shit, dude. you can get 1/4-inch spade female terminals everywhere. at a store, or just ask someone who has testicles to give you one. then crimp it with pliers, or a vice grip.

>>1959552

replace that shit, dude. you can get 1/4-inch spade female terminals everywhere. at a store, or just ask someone who has testicles to give you one. then crimp it with pliers, or a vice grip.

when you remove the old one, grab both the male terminal and the wire it's welded to with pliers, so you dont break the weld. rock the female terminal up/down as you pull it out.

>>1959563
raspis are annoying but an arduino hdmi shield is going to be expensive. raspis can be configured to boot very fast and automatically run your script after booting, so they'll be fine in practice.

>>1957408
another day another oscillator circuit that doesnt work without a specific value cap or feedback winding. i have found 2 dozen fake oscillator circuits only only 3 working ones. i have used more solder on making circuits that dont work than do .

why are old people so retarded? making a neon lamp glow wouldnt get any one into college and science fairs arent even done in most states anymore. fix the internet you faggots. remove your fake shit from pinterest and do your job google lest we take the company back from india. your not allowed to code software for planes anymore we can extend that to the internet. europe already sued you

>>1959563
If you need HDMI, then use a rpi or other SBC for sure. But you may not need one, just drawing some shapes and letters on an LCD (with the right connections) should be relatively simple if you know what you’re doing. But that mainly applies to smaller LCDs, the kinds that are made for MCU use in the first place. So it all depends on what sort of display you want to use. From the sounds of it, it should be a simple enough project to do on a simple LCD or OLED with limited colour palettes, but that will change if your stylisation has greater requirements.
A standard arduino with a 328p might not be fast enough or have enough ram or progmem for a somewhat intricate graphical display, so maybe something more beefy would be required.

>>1959594
Why are you making a sine wave oscillator instead of a relaxation oscillator like a normal person? Getting a tank circuit oscillator to run at <1kHz is gonna be really tough.

>>1959594
just use, idk
>arduino PWM+4th order sallen key LPF
>555 square osc + 4th order sallen key LPF
>a sine generator like the XR2206
>a diode ring mixer b/t two detuned 1khz squares, passed through a 4th order sallen key LPF

and take your meds, schizo

>>1959600
the tank circuit needs pulses to feed it. i guess thats why you suggest a relaxation oscillator. but maybe im just dumb but that only works if i have something that tips like a bjt in reverse bias (dont want to do as they die fast in my experience) or a neon lamp (needs like 50 - 60 volts so i have to boost to begin with). op amp oscillator needs comparitors and im working with bjts and fets from salavged parts from dead electronics in the house. 3 decades worth. we dont throw things out

if you got a better solution i will try it but i dont see many ones presented. half the ones every one says works dont do anything. im sure i live in a world full of "+1 post" people who dont even exist and are just chat bots to boost perceived internet traffic to boost domain name value.

>>1959618
>salvaged parts only
There’s your problem. You can make a relaxation oscillator without an avalanche by breakdown component, all you need is hysteresis from a Schmitt trigger. The most common Schmitt trigger circuit these days is a comparator with positive feedback (be surprised if there wasn’t a single op-amp or comparator in your collection), but they can also be made with a few transistors. A 7414 or equivalent will also work for this.

Using an incandescent lamp for an AGC is a bad idea if you want longevity, and so is using common MOSFETs for analog circuits.

The circuits that “just don’t work” for you are nuanced circuits where component values have to be selected carefully to ensure oscillation. There’s an entire field of applied mathematics dedicated to control loops and how to prevent or cause them to oscillate. People still design and build oscillators like this mainly for radio use, where they’re up in the 100kHz -10GHz range and square wave harmonics will get you assassinated by the FCC. For anything slower, there are easier options.

And seriously, just buy a bunch of generic components. Just bought a 50 pack of LM324 quad op-amps for $5 or so myself, they’re old as shit but they work fine. Got some LM393s and 339s too, plus a grab bag of electrolytic and ceramic capacitors. Add a breadboard and jumpers and a breadboard power supply cable or whatever and you’re good to go.

What measuring tools do you have? Kinda hard to tell if something isn’t oscillating or if it is oscillating at 10MHz unless you have a scope.

ITS posible to do a voltage amp with lm386 or another miniamp for a microphone to use it with a computer? Affirdable options where i love are TDA2822 AND LM386 i know the básics but im afraid sof frying the motherboard or In Line audio due to not having an osciloscope to adjust output mV levels itill be used with an electrect microhone also im seeking YT recomendatins

>>1959763
Yes, it should be relatively easy. The TDA2822 is a somewhat wimpy power amplifier, while the LM386 is an operational amplifier. Since you don't need to output much current, I'd leant towards the LM386. Though even better would be a low-noise or JFET op-amp. But if you use a non-inverting topology you should get reasonable results either way.

In order not to fry your sound card/mobo, you'll need to look into what kind of voltage range they're expecting. Also be handy to know what input impedance they have, and whether they expect a signal with a DC offset or not.
I know I did similar research, but it was for my mac's TRRS headphone jack, which is IIRC somewhat different to a PC's jack. In my case there was a ~2.5V bias coming out of the jack, in series with a ~2kΩ resistance, made to power an electret mic cartridge on a single wire (plus ground) without any extra circuitry required. The important part was I could power a red LED off it.

As for sending a microphone signal back out of an amplifier, you'll probably want to put a capacitor in series with it to get rid of any bias in either direction, even though there's probably a capacitor on the PC side anyhow, and to have a method of varying the gain of the amplifier, with a safe maximum. Maybe some limiting diodes of some sort, if the required amplitude is low enough (it probably is) then you can just use two antiparallel silicon diodes after a series resistor.

I was actually just thinking of doing this myself today, with the bag of electret cartridges I've got somewhere. Probably using an LF353 I've got, then again I'd need large enough power rails for that to work. Even an LM386 won't run very nicely on 5V from a USB or wherever, you'll be stuck in a ~1V range between either rail, but it's probably sufficient considering the required output impedance.
I'll also likely add some filtration to cut out particularly high frequencies, might help reel back the sibilance.

>>1959594
For the fucking 100th time. YOU NEED TO USE A BUFFER BETWEEN THE OSCILLATOR AND THE TRANSFORMER YOU ARE DRIVING.

>>1959243
>>1959168
That's a 2 pin DIN connector

have the chinks gone too far?
>get 5 boards of up to like 20x40cm
>solder maks silk screen, everything looks like fully professional shit
>up to 4 fucking layers
>free fucking SMT assembly, you only pay for the parts and the board comens basicaly fully soldered and ready to be plug in and used
>for 2 (TWO) fucking dollars
are you fucking kidding me?
buying a one BLANK 20*40 copper clad here will cost me like $4 here
jesus fucking christ, this is insane

>>1959841
>yess goy you do not need to learn how to solder
>just trust us

>>1959834
>That's a 2 pin DIN connector

thats just a name, nigger, the question is where can somebody get some.

>>1959843
>my time has no value and i will waste it by soldering my own shit and end up not only wasting my time but spending more money on raw materials than it would cost me to have a fully assembled board delivered
ok tard, you do you

>>1959845
Those connectors were so popular in my county that I still can get them in most of local electronic stores. And they are available on AliExpress - both female and male connectors. Just search 2-pin-din-speaker-connector instead of calling everyone a nigger

>>1959850
>Just search 2-pin-din-speaker-connector instead of calling everyone a nigger

look at my pic, nigger.
i'm way ahead of you.

>>1959841
>corner the market
>steal the IP of any large scale runs they find
you are the product

This is mundane and obvious, but I need to vent so bear with me. I just came to realize how small the online diy electronics community is. I mean I've always known that people in general are extremely retarded, lazy and unmotivated. But I also thought that there are still MILLIONS of us. Well maybe thousands. And most don't post online. I check a few electronics mbs and traffic there is literally 10-20 messages a day. And thats the most popular message boards like allaboutcircuits, ee something etc. Of course luckily 99.9% of my questions are already answered. Thats because google keeps a very long history and 10-20 messages a day accumulate to hundreds of thousands of posts so one might think that the community is huge. But often times when I ask a new question, there are crickets. Thats probably because that only guy who knows the answer and actually cares to read the questions and answer them has been offline for a few days. OK this may be a mundane knowledge but it is still mind boggling that the online world is so huge but it is mostly garbage. Porn, games and politics. Billions of petabytes of data and millions of tweets per second, thats all there is there. Just like in real life, you may be surrounded by millions of people and still be lonely. Thanks for reading my blog.

Can someone recommend some good wire strippers

From a general safety standpoint, is it safe to keep a device plugged into the outdoor mains outlet for a prolonged period of time, like forever? Is there a risk of an eventual short circuit and deadly fire due to the elements? Mine look something like this.

>>1959978
Forgot to mention, these are not GFCI. Maybe I should upgrade them and that would be a good solution.

>>1959978
>Is there a risk
>these are not GFCI
Yes, there is a risk. Any outlet near a source of water needs to be on a GFCI, especially outdoors.

>>1959978
>for a prolonged period of time, like forever?

of course, when the cover is open, it lets rain, moisture, and dirt enter the outlet so things inside will get corroded and dirty.
and small bugs might enter the house that way.

>>1959984
But doesn't GFCI do the same thing as the circuit breaker but faster to protect people from getting electrocuted? If you pour water into the outlet, does it matter if it is a short circuit or a ground fault which I don't really understand the difference between. Does it matter if the hot wire comes in contact with the neutral wire or the ground wire? As long as the device plugged in is not grounded, is not made of metal and is not intended to be touched.

>>1957460
the colar isn't done yet, i am waiting for chinkereenos to finish making the pcb and shipping it to me, then i'll post pics
and i can't poste the old one since i lost it somewhere, but i actually had to run it at like 20% brightness since with the 5050 leds if i ran it at 100%, then when the doggo was running around at night it looked like if an UFO was landing

>>1959989
GFCI interrupts when where is 5-30mA disbalance between phases and it indicates someone or something is getting fucked up

Regular circuit breakers can cook you with 10 amps and would still not give a fuck

>>1959989
regular breakers protect against overload, GFCI protects you against ground faults.

>>1959992
Right, but *something* like a human body should close the circuit to the ground and divert a portion of the total return current, then it is the ground fault condition, right?
But If nobody is touching the unattended device that is not even grounded (like a two prong wallwart) I dont see how GFCI is going to make any difference if, say, moisture gets into the outlet. What am I missing?

>>1959995
Yes, and sounds like I shouldn't care about the GF in my case. I am thinking of keeping a device connected to the outlet which is a two prong wallwart. I've always wondered why the weather stations have batter powered sensors instead of a wallwart design. So you could just keep them plugged without having to worry about replacing the batteries. If thats due to safety reasons, I am trying to understand the risks.

>>1959996
water can cause a ground fault

>>1959998
do not be a retard. read the codes for your area and follow them.

>>1959998
>What is a GFCI and how does it work?
https://www.cpsc.gov/s3fs-public/099_0.pdf

>>1960000
but the device itself is not grounded. if water gets into the outlet it can either short circuit hot to neutral or hot to ground. i would expect it will trip the circuit breaker in either case.

>>1960001
not an argument. of course i am going to follow the code. i am just trying to understand the theory which none of you is able to explain properly so most likely you don't understand it other than "do not do that".

>>1959996
>water gets into outlet
>causes high impedance mains connection to external metal object
>random kid dies

Or you forget to disconnect circuit breaker and decide to unplug your device when it's raining (judging by your questions it's plausible), plug is drenched in water and few days later people find crispy anon

Every nation (or at least any that has functioning electrical infrastructure) has national electric codes that have requirements for all kinds of environments.

>>1960000
based safety minded get

>>1959552
can someone give an opinion? I dont wanna change the whole system

>>1960009
>follow the codes
>not an argument

>>1960015
That looks janky as fuck. I wouldn't use it like that. Maybe you can find another heating element and swap it out after you crimp new disconnect terminals onto the wires.

>>1960009
> i am just trying to understand the theory which none of you is able to explain properly
Basic electrical knowledge is within national electric codes.

In essence you are conductor to earth (ground, soil, whatever). If equipment outdoors is shit or damaged, water can get to one of mains phases but not short circuit to another phase or ground.

So all the water is at mains potential, then you come around and accidentally touch it, since you stand on ground (earth), 20-30mA current flows through you and you're dead.

>but the device itself is not grounded
Shit equipment, I don't even trust IP68 rated equipment for outdoor use without GFCI.
In my country a couple of people die every year when they use submersible water pumps without GFCI - one of conductors gets damaged, place it in water and whole water pond is at mains potential, then you step in and get electrocuted. Should be fun times.

>>1960020
I dont have many materials. What is the worse that could happen if i try to use like this?

>>1957459
>>1957460
>>1959990
The way you speak, made me remember this guy.

>>1960009
>i would expect it will trip the circuit breaker in either case.

have you measured resistance of water? it's like 5K; it wont pop any breakers.

>>1960015
>give an opinion?

already did, faggot. a great opinion, in my opinion.
>>1959570

>>1960028
t. cat owner

>>1960025
The heating element draws a lot of current, and if it's bottlenecked by added resistance because of a bad terminal connection it could cause a fire.

>>1960031
so i basically put one side of the spade to male spade and other side to the wire. As i said that wire is very thin and worn out. Is it a good idea? Because it is just gonna get wearing out and become worse eventually.

>>1960036
Does this >>1960043 seem like a good idea?

>>1960044
If the terminals on the heating elements are good then you only need to crimp new disconnects onto the wires. If the terminals on the heating element are bad then you need to weld a fix or replace the whole heating element. If the wires are bad then you need to replace them with new wires and disconnects.

well... this was a BIG FUCKING FAIL

i don't get it, why won't it stick to the CUnt?

It is very clearly cured, when i touch it on the plastic it is completely hardened as it should be.. except it's solder masking the damn plastic and not the PCB

>>1960043
>As i said that wire is very thin and worn out. Is it a good idea?

yes, it's a good idea, because you can cut off about 1-2 inches of the end of the wire, so the weak part is thrown away. stoves always have some slack (i.e. the wire is longer than it needs to be)

>>1960043

>i basically put one side of the spade to male spade and other side to the wire.

this phrase doesnt make any sense. what you do is cut off the old female spade, plus a couple of inches at the end of the wire, then strip 5mm which you place inside female spade, then squeeze it shut with pliers.

>As i said that wire is very thin and worn out. Is it a good idea?

yes, it's a good idea, because you can cut off about 1-2 inches of the end of the wire, so the weak part is thrown away. stoves always have some slack (i.e. the wire is longer than it needs to be)

>>1960028
Wow you sound like you're really fun at parties

>>1960023
thanks anon, i looked at the diagrams and i think i get it now.

>>1960029
yeah you are right. even salt water is pretty high resistance. so the danger is not about a short circuit it is about touching a wet object that can be at the mains potential. wet object, we ground, large surface cross section (standing on wet ground) => low resistance.
i was incorrectly thinking about some sort of protection when the device is NOT touched or nothing is connected to the outlet and water gets into it. sounds like it is not the issue, the issue is touching whatever is connected to the mains that can be at mains potential.

>>1960028
i read a similar rant about a husband who constantly impersonated their cat and talked like a cat, in a "cat" like voice (whatever that means) in the 3rd person (oochy poochy little kitty is hungry, sleepy kitty happy kitty purr purr).

>>1960010
Yeah I respect the code, these questions are just about theory, from the /ohm/'s law perspective.

>>1960064
>this phrase doesnt make any sense. what you do is cut off the old female spade, plus a couple of inches at the end of the wire, then strip 5mm which you place inside female spade, then squeeze it shut with pliers.
i geniuenly dont understand and feel like a retard. There is nothing wrong with female spade. You see the contact point in the pic, that wire is very thin on the left one.

>>1959975
>it is still mind boggling that the online world is so huge but it is mostly garbage
>millions of tweets per second, thats all there is there
>Shitposts about stupid people filling the interwebs with opinions

>Thanks for reading my blog

You are part of the problem retard. The diy community is plenty big and active. Just because you're glued to your computer and not looking on the right websites doesn't mean we don't exist.

>>1959975
bear in mind too that most answers are written by pajeets or students that don't know shit. even a lot of career EEs answering questions don't know shit just because they've been siloed and don't have an interest in the field outside their job. the number of people that can answer a real, nontrivial question *and* are willing to read/interpret/respond to it is absolutely tiny. i've long given up on asking questions on the internet. 95% of answers are from retards that are often angry too for some reason.

nowadays when i have a question i just stumble around for the right search term so i can look up a relevant whitepaper or article.

>>1960111
95% of everything EE related is pajeets. There should a be a world wide filter already

If one led draws 2V 20ma and you connect them like this the power source needs to supply 6V 40ma, and that way each led will draw 2V 20 ma and they all work normally

But what happens if one led breaks and stops conducting, what will be the voltage and current across the remaining one led there?

>>1960118
are we supposed to assume there are resistors or is this a meme question?

>>1960120
what resistors where? look at the pic, it's just ordinary leds like this

>>1960124
You need resistors when driving LEDs or else they have a high chance of thermal run-away and will pull more current until it dies or the power supply stops.

To answer your question, the remaining LED will still only have 2v across it at 20mA. The circuit as a whole will pull less current.

>>1960153
So instead of running lm317 in 6V mode i should run it in CC mode and set it to 40ma?

Why can't we have a completely floating feed from the distribution transformer? Why is the center tap earthed? To protect from the lightnings? So in a perfect world with no lightnings we could just have hot and neutral wires and touching either of them would be totally safe, no such thing as GF, no need for GFCI?

>>1960265
>no such thing as GF
bro that's a sucker punch

>>1960167
What's powering the lm317?
Just use that and select a resistor value for it

>>1960101
>There is nothing wrong with female spade.

there's obviously a language problem, here. so, time for pictures.
the thing circled in yellow on the left is the female spade. it is very sick. you need to replace that with a new one.
circled in green is the male spade, which is part of the oven. be careful you dont break it when you pull off the female. wiggle the female up and down as you pull.

on the right are examples of replacement male and female spades. males are on top, females below.

search youtube for ''How to Replace a Terminal End - Crimp Spade'' if you need to see how to crimp a wire.

>>1960101
>There is nothing wrong with female spade.

there's obviously a language problem, here. so, time for pictures.
the thing circled in yellow on the left is the female spade. it is very sick. you need to replace that with a new one.
circled in green is the male spade, which is part of the oven. be careful you dont break it when you pull off the female. wiggle the female up and down as you pull. after you pull off the female, use sandpaper on the male to make it shiny again. be gentle.

on the right are examples of replacement male and female spades. males are on top, females below.

search youtube for ''How to Replace a Terminal End - Crimp Spade'' if you need to see how to crimp a wire.

i cum bearing gifs

http://zpostbox.ru/index_e.html

it haz circuits

>>1960363
None of the tracks is always on, somehow. You''d expect power and ground pins on the chip.

I want to charge pump and 18.5VDC voltage source up to 70-100VDC. What do I use for switches? Power MOSFETS?

Pic unrelated.

Has anybody had the pleasure of trying to pull single core wires through a narrow conduit?

I'm pulling 5 x 1,5mm wires through a 20mm wide conduit and I'm wondering..

..what the fuck kind of magician do you need to be to do this shit?

>>1960390
n-channel fets are generally the best choice. do you know what topology you're using and how to select a fet? if not then find a module on aliexpress.

>>1960265
Floating feeds do exist, but it's still only safe when the first ground fault occurs, then it's just as dangerous as a regular grounded system. Can be useful in small systems where maintaining high uptime is essential, since that first fault can be located and fixed without needing to turn the circuit off, but not good over a larger scale, like can you trust your neighbour won't create a ground fault. An insulation monitoring device is usually required to confirm that it is still floating.

>>1960431
I'm thinking a Dickson topology, four stage. I was thinking a P- and an N-channel per pair of caps like so. I think I can manage to figure out a good fit on the MOSFETS, though I don't often deal in transistors.

>>1960056
The board is clean, right? I mean acetone-tier clean. Also I usually see people use glass instead of plastic for that. From a picture frame or whatever. I assume (clean) glass is less sticky to the solder mask, but I couldn't say for sure. Look for some YT vids or whatever.

>>1960265
What the other guy said, but also EMI reasons. A few devices require grounded shielding, microwave ovens perhaps included.

>>1960422
fishing tape and lubricant

>>1960439
>100V charge pump
lol what are you even doing? Just use a boost converter. It's ridiculously easy to get 100V out of 18.5V with a boost converter and you can pull a fuck ton more power out of that than you can a capacitive charge pump. There are super simple switching controllers that make the feedback loop trivial to design, way easier than whatever you have to do to drive all those FETs.

>>1960303
>the thing circled in yellow on the left is the female spade. it is very sick
What makes you think that? I put an isolation band around it, that is why it is black around. You cant even see the female spade in there, so how can you tell it is sick?

>>1960439
>P- and an N-
So long as you're far enough from the limit of MOSFET technology, it should be fine. But bootstrapping an N-channel isn't that difficult.

Also that reminds me of a BBD.

>>1960422
If its so hard you cant do it, make sure your conduit doesn't have plumbing 90s and not too many sweeps in it. Place a high strength rope like mule 1200 lb mule tape and some pulleys to keep everything in line, and start cranking on it with a come along.

RIP most conduit runs that are just bolted on though

What type of cable construction will fuck with a 60hz -1ghz signal the least?

I'm not sure this is the right thread for this post but I genuinely have no one else to ask:
I live in a third world shit hole. I have absolutely no knowledge of electronics, and the story is yesterday I went to vacuum and this caused one of the fuses in my apartment fuse box to trip, killing all the wall lights in the house, as well as several outlets. I went to flip the thing back on, all the lights started flickering violently. All the bulbs in the house are pic related, bought at the same time, about a month ago. I asked the neighbors if they knew an electrician, and they called this boomer over to help me with my situation. At first he told me that everything was fine and that the lights were just broken, and he screwed in an incandescent to show that that wouldn't flicker, and it popped about 10 seconds later. He then said it was just a coincidence, but decided to appease me by rerouting the affected to circuit to another one of the fuses in the box. I don't know which and what else is on that circuit, he didn't check. After this I was like fine, it seemed to fix it. Later that evening, I was finishing cleaning up and putting my lighting back to colored, when I noticed that all the colors in my two ceiling light bulbs were fucky,(for example the pink was bluish purple), I went to inspect the bulbs and they were quite hot to the touch,around 60 C. I removed them, and then 10 minutes later I put them back in, and they seemed to be fine. Now, whenever I leave them on white light for 10 minutes or so and then switch to a color, the color is off and slowly returns to the correct color as, I assume, the bulb cools down. I called the electrician and he told me that it was probably nothing, and that the bulbs were defective.
Am I insane? Is this normal? Did the bad fuse fuck the bulbs? I genuinely don't fucking know what I'm supposed to do at this point.

>>1960556
TL;DR; and I dont care nor do I know much about electronics. Hopefully some other dude will have a solution

Here's what I suggest:
Do you know what a multimeter and osciloscope is? Both can be had in your thrid world shithole if you buy used garbage, which is all you need to narrow this down and afterwards you have some reason to stay in these threads and maybe make some good money

>>1958322
i professionally and exclusively work on electronics that other people have designed- there are a lot of these sorts of things in the begining. just keep reading and learning, you'll eventually figure it out. if you toss your all at it and you still don't understand, give it a rest for the day or a week; come back with a fresh mind and some ideas you thought up. it takes time to soak up knowledge and if you try and rush it too much it'll feel like you've learned nothing

I broke the on/off switch on my keyboard, and I was wondering what the easiest way would be to fix it.

I was thinking about shorting the circled pins on the switch to ensure that it's always on. I don't have a precise soldering iron nor have I ever soldered before. How would you guys recommend I fix this?

>>1960559
Thanks for taking your time to shitpost. I'd rather find out if all the shit I own, that I could not afford to replace in a decade or more, which is currently plugged into this apartment, is being fried as we speak before I go out thrifting for tools I don't know how to use in order to perform maintenance on the whole apartment's wiring situatino while not knowing what a fucking volt is.

>>1959965
if that means i can have finished pcb shipped to my doorstep for just two bucks then i will happily be the product
It's just like that saying goes
It's much better to bee a contempt slave than a miserable free man

>>1960570
This is not electrician general. And if you do not what a volt is you should not be fucking around with mains.

>>1960556
Try /csg/ in /g/.
Sure you can get some basic equipment for cheap with their help.

>>1960363
In my opinion anything analog should be illegal in 2020

>>1960567
>nor have I ever soldered before
If you want to get into this hobby, get an iron and practice soldering, then desolder the switch and solder a new switch on.
If you just want to fix it quick and cheap... talk to your local friendly electronics shop and see if they can help, jumpering that is a 1-2 minute job and most of that time is waiting for an iron to heat up.

>>1960486
>What makes you think that?

1) you said so: you had to fix it, you had smoke.
2) notice the color of the male spade on the left. it's changed, become darker. why? because of heat generated by a loose or dirty contact. loose contacts add resistance to a circuit, and a resistance generates heat when you pass current thru it. over time, heat discolors metal.

>>1960486
>What makes you think that?

1) you said so: you had to fix it, you had smoke.
2) notice the color of the male spade on the left. it's changed, become darker. why? because of heat generated by a loose or carbonized contact. loose contacts add resistance to a circuit, and a resistance generates heat when you pass current thru it. over time, that heat discolors metal.

hmmm should i buy a scope?
A cheap one like this one.
It costs around $300 so i wonder if it's worth it if i only use a scope couple times a week.
The one i have now is 2ch USB 100mhz, and it works well, it's even isolated, so pretty safe.
But i wonder if having all those cool little buttons and standalone screen would justify buying a standalone scope.

>>1960600

like so.

>>1960601
>all those cool little buttons and standalone screen
Spoken like a true consumer drone. Does it have features that you can use to justify the cost or are you just being a whore with her trinket?

>>1960585
that's right goyim! now install that RTOS on your toothbrush. solder that BGA. good goyim.

>>1960664
yes i do prefer highly reliable digital circuits which require 90% less components and 90% fewer man hours to design and build, than their analog counterparts and where in many cases analog can't even do them at all, how did you know?

>>1960601
take your buyfaggotry to /g/.

>>1960640
>>1960670
What's with all these /g/ rejects?
Scopes are a vital tool for electronics work - and it's quite tricky for beginners to pick out a good one. He's not buying an iPhone or whatever you guys get so triggered about.

>>1960674
>>1960601
>hmmm should i buy a scope?
>The one i have now is 2ch USB 100mhz, and it works well, it's even isolated, so pretty safe.
>But i wonder if having all those cool little buttons and standalone screen would justify buying a standalone scope.
you did not even read did you?

>>1960676
USB scopes are crap though and dedicated hardware is well worth it.

>>1957806
At such high frequency it becomes unviable to use opamps, you retard.

>>1960676
>oh no someone is buying a product and this makes my butt hurt
you are the one that needs to fuck off back to /b/ or whatever toxic shithole you crawled out of

>>1960679
>USB scopes are crap though and dedicated hardware is well worth it.
completely false

>>1960713
Who the fuck wants to deal an extra device, Windows crap, and fiddling with virtual knobs with their mouse every time they need a scope?

And the guy posted some low-end chink crap as a potential scope. I highly doubt his USB scope isn't utter garbage.

>>1960715
I looked them up on ebay, they're like $100-$130 too. FFS, you can buy high BW analog for those prices

>>1960715
Not everyone uses a scope often enough to justify the extra bench space and the extra cost in parts.
good USB scopes have the exact same HW as standalone scopes with the only exception of not having display and buttons and shit, which gets handled by a computer or a simple laptop and it makes them much smaller and much cheaper.
Perfect solution for hobbyists who only need to use a scope like 3 times a week.
Only a complete retard would blow $1000 on a full bench scope if that is their use case.

>>1960744
Sure a shitty tool is good enough when you barely do anything with it.
A 5$ USB soldering iron is good enough to assemble a little kit. It's still shit though.

PSA: Pinecil (improved ts100 compatible iron with risc-v µcontroller and usb-pd) is available for order.
https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/

>>1960748
Except its not shitty you tard, it has hw identical to the 1000$ scope minus screens and controls. There is a reason why even top scope makers like memesight make usb scopes. It is a true mark of an amateur like yourself to dismiss something when you dont even understand. When you get more experience it will become clearer.

>>1960770
What the hell are you even talking about?
You don't even know what kind of scope the guy has.
If he's viewing a fucking 300$ scope as an upgrade, it's not gonna be a good one.
Probably some Hantek-style garbage which does not have the same hardware as a decent scope.

An USB scope with actual good hardware and software is not much cheaper than a dedicated decent scope. Above the budget of a hobbyist who barely uses it that you were talking about.

>>1960755
>trusting your life to a shitty chink knockoff
not thanks i will stick with my ts-100
i even laugh at my NPC consoomer friends for getting the TS80 when it came out

>>1960803
>your life
wtf
>chink knockoff
Isn't ts-100 chink to begin with?

>>1960755
>ts100 compatible iron
>risc-v µcontroller
Fucking christ, who the fuck needs such a powerhouse controller for a damned soldering iron? I can make a rock-solid, highly stable iron controller with an 8-bit controller from the 90's.

>>1960815
But the gd32v they use is likely cheaper and has more functionality than a 8-bit mcu from the 90s.

>>1960601
>>1960679
>>1960715
>>1960744
>>1960748
>>1960770
>>1960776

All of you are stupid. There are so many scopes out there, both chinky ripoffs and name brand beasts that its insanely hard to compare the two.
If you want a scope, you buy one based off your needs and budget. There are great USB scopes, there are shitty USB scopes. Same goes for stand-alone ones. I've dealt with so many over the last 24 years its stupid.

>>1960815
>>1960818
Aliexpress has the chips on sale.
If you want a devboard with that chip for reference, see longan nano.

>>1960818
I honestly didn't think about cost, but when I can get a decent non-chink 8-bit micro (internal osc, adc, pwm, ect...) these days for under a buck in a quantity of only 30, it really makes me question the use of a RISC-V.
It honestly feels like the marketing department talking.

Hi DI-anons, i'm making a small 12v 100w PID based heater for an enclosure and i was looking at what i have at hand for making the power stage of the board: i currently have a very nice IRG4BC30FD and a big old 2n3055 that could work to drive the 10A heater, thing is i really don't what what could be a better candidate, the expensive IGBT or the good cheap big BJT (the PID is simply an arduino, the board will sit outside the enclosure it needs to heat so not really a space problem)

>>1960824
That's pretty much what these risc-v microcontrollers cost.
So you can get a 32bit microcontroller with an even better peripheral selection (gd32 are stm32 clones, v version is risc-v but still has the stm32 peripherals), at about the same.
Why wouldn't you?

>>1960827
If you have them in bulk and use already have them in stock for other projects, I fully understand using them if cost is the same.
I guess I'm old school and I design a product based on requirements. If I have to select a controller to simply control the temperature of an iron, there is no need to use a 32-bit controller with decent computing power. I feel like that is a waste of potential.
There's nothing wrong with using it, but when its advertised as using a RISC-V core for an iron, I typically see that as marketing towards "I LOVE SCIENCE" people, and not because it does anything special for an iron.

>>1960434
>can you trust your neighbour won't create a ground fault.
but technically it is not a ground fault since there is no ground, it just somehow the live wire is touching the ground creating a new reference point?

so if you stand on the ground on your property, is it considered the same potential as your neighbors property where the gf occurred? is soil a good conductor? if you touch live wire, that essentially creates a voltage divider: your body plus the distance in the soil to the gf. so if the soil resistance is << than a few hundred ohm you can get shocked.

>>1960829
The ts100 uses a stm32.
gd32v is a clone with the same peripherals, but on risc-v.
I don't think it is such a crazy choice.
As for designing projects, I used to also favor 8bit microcontrollers as simple as possible with the minimum peripherals as long as they did enough.
But current pricing makes that senseless. Unless you care about lowest power (the 16bit msp430 is still king), it's 32bit all the way. I like stm32, YMMV.

>>1960829
Pine64 is big on open-source/hardware stuff, so RISC-V makes sense for them.

Does anyone make an open 8051 MCU? The surrounding IP got to be expired by now.

>>1960826
So you need help designing the switching part of the circuit so the arduino can switch on the heating element?
If all you are doing is turning the power on or off to the heating element, go with the IGBT, it'll be more efficient than the BJT.

fucking PERFECT
only my second try and i mastered the art of solder masking
fuck all those youtube videos making it seem overcomplicated as fuck, this took me like 10 seconds and it's flawless, it's so fucking easy to do it's ridiculous, i can literally solder mask an entire pcb in like 30 seconds, feels good

>>1960712
>toxic
lmao, are we twitter now?

>>1960832
>The ts100 uses a stm32.
>gd32v is a clone with the same peripherals, but on risc-v.
By that logic, the ts100 is being excessive as well for using an stm32... but again it comes down to cost I suppose.

>>1960833
>Pine64 is big on open-source/hardware stuff, so RISC-V makes sense for them
And there it is, that makes 100% perfect sense now, I didn't know they were big on open source. I can understand it all now.

I'm not cutting them down for using a powerful micro in an iron. Hell, it sounds like it would be fun to reverse engineer and customize. It just wouldn't be my first choice for such a product. This is coming from my professional side vs. consumer side. But being open source, I totally support their decision.

>>1960833
>Does anyone make an open 8051 MCU? The surrounding IP got to be expired by now.
I doubt there's interest, outside of playing with FPGAs territory. ASICs for such a thing would be unlikely.
There's basically nothing out there in terms of open µC ASICs. If any was made, I'm sure the CPU would be RISC-V.

>>1960838
What product/system are you using to mask?

>>1960838
2-layer PCBs are so cheap, I can't be bothered with that shit anymore.
I remember doing this shit 25 years ago.

>>1960844
For mass production, or maybe even a small batch, yeah, it sucks.
But for a one or two-off design, I enjoy doing everything by hand. Its almost therapeutic.

>>1960834
i can use the IGBT as a normal powermos right? i've seen it's like a powermos with some stuff in front of it so i just need logiv voltage to drive it, ideally i have a P channel IRF but that would require a BJT in front of it so i don't really want to add stuff...a help would be lovely it's been a while since i've thinkered with electronics

>>1960838
Why even fuck around with UV solder mask for something like this?

You could just use a spray coating. It contains flux so you can still solder on it. Then you bake it and it becomes a protective film.

>>1960848
I've never seen that before. So I can spray down the board, then bake it before soldering to seal it, and can still solder through it? Even SMD parts? What is this stuff called?

>>1960843
generic chink UV solder mask, i put a blob on the pcb and then pancake it with a piece of glass and then put it under an array uv leds i made for 2 minutes
it's less than one minute of manual work and the entire pcb is perfectly masked

>>1960844
true, but it takes 15 days to deliver them if you don't want to pay for premium shipping and the shipping still costs $5, and i want my PCBs NOW.
Nothing better than getting an idea, opening kicad and holding a finished pcb an hour later in your hand.
I don't even use any gross chemicals i just mill them so it's easy as fuck.

>>1960848
never seen than before, there must be a bunch of negatives, like it being shit as far as board protection goes, or expensive, or impossible to get if you aren't from US or some shit

>>1960848
>>1960859
>solder mask
what's that?

>>1960859
>generic chink UV solder mask
Can you solder through it after curing it?
I've never played with masks before because it seems like if you covered up solder pads, you were screwed and I didn't want to try and use tape or whatever to cover up the smd pads or whatever.

>>1960860
>copper oxidation and corrosion
what's that?

>>1960864
well this was just a test if a production run you have to options

>virgin laser printer mask
you laser print a plastic sheet with your pads on it, cover the pcb and then UV cure it and then wipe of the liquid mask from the pads
>chad CNC mill
you use spring loaded v cutter or drag bit to mill the solder mask away from the pads, this is what i'm doing
bonus: you with CNC you can also mill the silk screen into the solder mask along with the pads

>>1960870
>bonus: you with CNC you can also mill the silk screen into the solder mask along with the pads
OR if you feel really fancy, you can attach a pernament white sharpie to the springloaded bit and have the mill actually inscribe the silk screen, so that way it looks exactly like the real deal

>>1960870
What CNC machine do you use? I've wanted to pick one up for a while but have no clue what to look for.

>>1960854
No you bake it after soldering. It's meant for hand soldered through hole pcbs (like the one in the image I replied to).
It doesn't give you that correcting aspect of a precisely applied UV solder mask, it only applies flux and protects (and looks neat).

It's called Bungard GreenCoat. I don't know anyone else who makes something exactly like this - stuff like "FLUX SK10" is similar.

>>1960866
It's tinned.

>>1960874
Before you invest, dip your toes first with the 3018.
It's a shit machine but incredibly cheap, chinks almost give it away for free.
It's shit for milling wood and milling metal, but you aren't doing that, you only need to mill 0.03mm thick copper and it can to that easily

>>1960870
>>1960872
How about using a laser engraver to cure it and leave out the solder pads?

>>1960883
tried that already, even bought a uv laser for it, and it's.... SHIT

and there is literally no reason to it any other way than i do it, like i said literally under 60 seconds to have a fully masked board, you simply cannot come up with anything better than that

>>1960879
Looks good, what kind of software does it use? Can I send it gerber files to mill away, or would I have to run the pcb files through some interpreter?

I'm going to use my motherboard's front panel LED connector to toggle a USB device. Anyone know what the LED+ and LED- circuit on a motherboard is? I'm assuming LED- is an open drain and LED+ is just 5V, but can't find any info on it

>>1960601
>only 2 channel
>1GS/s
get a 2nd hand analog scope instead

>>1960682
Is that not an audio circuit? Or is that local oscillator doing MHz?

>>1960870
>not using the gigachad laser ablation method

>>1960883
>>1960886
The point is to cure it and then burn it off afterwards, not try to cure it with a UV laser in the first place. UV lasers have subpar radiant efficacy compared to standard diodes or CO2 tubes.

>>1960895
Depends on the hardware on the machine, if there even is any. The commands a simple CNC will run on are G-code, and you need to parse your gerber files to generate tool paths in order to make those G-code files. Some user-friendly CNCs (mainly 3D printers) do all that for you, but for the most part you'll need some CAM software of some sort. IIRC Fusion360 can do that itself, not that I'd use it. There might be a way to generate router G-code directly from KiCAD, either natively or through a plugin.

>>1960933
Measure it with a DMM.

I'm a budding user who wants to work on small electronic board soldering, and I'm having a hard time with holding all the bits in place. Since people are asking for Xmas gift ideas, I am thinking of asking for electronics equipment, like a variable bench supply, helping hands, and a magnifier/lamp combo. Does anybody have some models of those that they would recommend?

>>1960933
>I'm assuming LED- is an open drain and LED+ is just 5V, but can't find any info on it

the info is in your motherboard manual. google it.
what you're describing is part of the ''Intel standard'' for mobo connectors.
but then even Intel will vary from its standard, for example, when it uses a bi-color LED, so your manual (or your multimeter) is the only true way of knowing.

>>1960951
#1 is TS100
everything else you can get whatever

>>1960951
>>1960984
ts-100 is old news and way overpriced.
See >>1960755

>>1960973
No it's not. Mobo manufacturers know the vast majority of users don't care how their LEDs are driven

>>1960984
>>1961005
Maybe I said the wrong thing, but with #1 I meant a power supply with which I can send a consistent current so as to test electronics. I already have a soldering iron, just an "okay" one but fine for now.

>>1961024
Though Pinecil won't be on launch sale $25 price forever. Nor will it include the microcontroller breakout board forever, either.

>>1960951
I've heard good things about "panavice" brand vices for holding PCBs.

>>1961025
Please stop shilling that chink crap, you are embarrassing yourself in front of everyone.

>>1961080
Can your soldering iron run Doom?

Hi, PID-heater anon here! i did a very quick schematic for my board (i'll have to just do it by hand, maybe i can later get a friend to use his 10W laser to make a nice single layer for me)

ideally i'd add a 7805 as to not stress the on-board regulator too much, but it should be done, any major flaws/problems with it?

>bought this light dimmer strapped to soldering iron with my lunch money over ten years ago
>recently, started kinda feeling like i might deserve something nicer after all of those years
>meme fisher price hakko is not available around me
>don't wanna spend weller-tier money, though we1010 is my backup plan if i won't find anything else that's worthy. shit, i deserve it
>ksger t12, or other rebrands of the same thing, are rather appealing. Are those stations really this amazing for a price?
>are those 937D-tier stations good for anything? They're dirt cheap, and for that price i can forgive them a lot, as long as they're somewhat reliable and temperature shown on display is at least remotely relevant to what's going on around the tip

What should i get? I don't know any better than my iron, so i think anything will impress me. Been considering those TS100/TS80 things too, but i'm not entirely convinced if they're meant to be used as a replacement for a proper soldering station.

>>1961167
As an owner of a T12, I can confirm that they’re pretty good. Better than one of those cheaper knockoff things, though the tips are more expensive. A TS100 is about as good, but I’d only get it if you need the portability.

Also that “dimmer” is actually probably an analog temperature control circuit. Shit’s cost-cutting minimalist black magic circuitry.

>>1961080
China won. Get over it.

>>1961205
Don't make me post it, chang

>>1961214
go ahead and post it

Does anyone have any reverse engineering tips, trying to use this chinese character oled display with two driver ICs, has some jumpers on the back to configure different interfacing modes but there's no documentation on setting them

I found an old forum post that lets me use SPI mode but there are more jumpers not used and I'm curious to see if I can access each chip separately rather than the current master-slave configuration they got going on

>>1961238
pen paper and a beep meter
>chinese
my condolences

>>1961238
$10 logic analyser. Really useful. If you can trace out the PCB that’s great, if you’re stuck working with a black box then you simply have to use trial and error until you come up with a logical explanation. Or find an IC that it seems to be a chinky clone of.

>>1961238
post pics of your display. i just had to deal with a chink oled myself.

>>1961241
>>1961263
figures, do you have a rec for a cheap logic analyzer that can also generate test signals, ive used both saleae and mso-19 before but I don't think the popular saleae clones have output capabilities

>>1961297
it's a raystar optronics 20x4 oled, to be honest I'm not sure who the manufacturer is considering there seems to be a dozen rebrandings of this display but they all use a ws0010 driver chip so I'm inclined to think the WS stands for winstar, another common vendor for this style display so they may be the parent company

The oled is interesting since it has a driver IC with a dual character and graphics mode, but each chip can only drive 100x16 pixels so for these 20x4 (100x32 pixels) there are two ICs. Datasheet shows them in a master slave configuration and I'm inclined to believe this means the graphics functionality won't work. The datasheet states each row is composed of 8 pixels so for a normal 100x16 pixel display this correlates to 2 rows, but my display has 4 so I only have the top half available to me. I presume the character mode addressing is auto incremented by logic handled between the master and slave

Anyways the reason for my reverse engineering is that on the back exists jumpers whose purpose is undocumented, two are named JCS1 and JCS2 which is clearly for the chip selects. You must short JCS1 and a few others to allow SPI interface so I was curious to see if I can disable master-slave and use the display to its max potential

>>1961326
because I'm retarded and didn't finish my thought: having 4 addressable rows is not good for graphics mode because only one bit is listed in the datasheet for controlling the y axis

>>1961326
>>1961328
>logic anal
dslogic
>signal generation
FPGA. icesugar or ulx3s.

>>1961011
>No it's not.

a whiter person than yourself would've realized i meant the Service Manual, not the Owner's Manual.

>>1961326
>it's a blob on board
That's going to be a real pain. But if you can identify and probe the data lines going from master to slave, you should be on your way to understanding it all. Try to draw out where the traces to those unused pads go.

Considering there's an unpopulated U3, it's very likely that the other unpopulated slots and selectable jumpers are solely for enabling different OLEDs or different ICs, as opposed to driving the two controllers separately. Perhaps if you can find a different OLED on the same PCB on alibay somewhere you'll get a hint about this.

so if i want a simpler simple stm32 chip breakout i only need a resonator and two caps? and then to program it just can use an ftdi programmer?
but to actually have it run the program i only need the resonator and the caps right? (and a power source of course)

>>1961445
>resonator
i meant oscillator crystal

I plan to rig up a solar-powered aircon system using 2ndhand car components in my summer break (I'm a mechanic and can get this shit cheap), my electronics knowledge starts and ends with cars and 12 volt systems.

Presumably I can get an off-the-shelf system to handle charging the car batteries with the solar panels, but I want to be able to have the system turn on when the interior temperature of the shed reaches a set point, and also have a way to prevent draining the batteries too much; what's my best bet to do this easily?

>>1961504
>>1961504
>>1961504


anyone under this line is gay
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