/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Also this fucker I got years ago is mvp for bullshit work. Angle grinder, bench grinder, router, buffer, problem solver. Couldn't have made a shitty handle without it.

What's current pricing on a drill press, lathe,radial arm saw and maybe another bench tool anyone can think of, I have to negotiate a shed full of shit with a a spinster.

>>1921830

What is perceived as more useful, a 5 1/2 or a 4 1/2?
I was planning on using this for parts, well only if the receivee was outright missing parts since everything besides the frog is really shitty.
The front inch of the sole has severe pitting on one corner, I just thought of last night playing rabbi and giving it a good chop off each end, of course a lot of file work too to get the curves right and that. Sole flatness wouldn't matter much either, just close enough, since the blade and breaker are really warn,could get it to near 4 1/2 size and use it as a scrub without a loss of anything valuable.

>>1921977
My only smoother is a 4 1/2
Got it cheap and in pristine condition -> no wonder.
The fucker is heavier than a no 5 and you quickly run out of steam using it. Angling corners off is serioudly hard work. Due to that experience i realised my next smother wont be a no4 but a wooden one

would this no 4 make for a good allround plane? looking to buy my first plane. want to somewhat flatten rough sawn lumber (more like getting rid off the splintering wood) as i have to do some rough framing and plane some dove tails etc. in the near future.

I got big in to woodworking about a year ago and bought a bunch of tools that proceeded to sit because I didn't have a good working space. Now I'm about to move and have a roughly 1200sqft shop. What are some good, larger projects that will be easy for a beginner? I wanted to try making some night stands and/or a kitchen table

>>1921985
For finer usage sure, but for going from rough sawn to clean material I think the inertia would be helpful to get through tough spots.

>>1922047
Ok, reread your question.
A scrub is traditionally short and narrow.
Narrow 33mm blade being the key here. You gotta file a pretty short radius on the blade
As you only want like 2 cm of engagement max

>>1921996
>allround plane
in my shittiy opinion, no
These are fine planes, better Steel than old stanleys and likely at the point of diminishing returns in price/perf
But thats not the tool you asked for, a first plane for rough work
Consider pic related. single iron plane. Its half the pain to setup and works faster with the downside of a rougher looking surface (does this matter in framing?)
new 1/2 the price of the dictum 1/3-1/4 used, take the saved cash for your sharpening setup you need anyway.

>>1922310
thanks, and what would be a good second plane for dovetails then?

>>1921819
why don't americans know how to properly shape handles?

>>1922320
>for dovetails
a router plane

is it possible to make a cube box completely with nothing but dovetails?

>>1922039
maybe start by making a solid, heavy bench out of some 2x4s?

>find $150 9 inch pre war atlus
>craigslist only sends the email alertl after 30 minutes of it being posted instead of immediately
>was the second person to respond

Box I made recently. Not like its very complicated or anything but it's the thing I'm most proud of making so far

>>1922880

Made myself a comb out of a scrap piece of mahogany...took maybe 20 minutes.

>>1922880
>>1922881
nice

>>1922880
>>1922881
own design? top looks cool

>>1922880
That's really nice box anon. Very rewarding work.

Is there a way to fill holes from screws in wood? The holes are yuge and busted, and I would like to install new screws. Door handle cover, for example. Drilling out bigger hole and using bigger screws is not an option.

>>1923366
you drill out the hole and glue in a dowel
then you pray the face plate covers what you did

I wish I knew about Shellac back when I was first starting with woodworking projects. I just love it, it's so easy to work with, it sands down beautifully to a silky fucking smooth appearance, it's pretty durable and it's simple as fuck to apply with a brush, spray or roller. I had been using polyurethane finishes for a long time but it's just so much easier with shellac and I think it compliments unstained wood wonderfully.

Project I've been working on the last few days, stand and storage for my miter saw and compressor. I have a pretty limited workspace in about half of my garage and before now I had just been sitting my miter saw on top of a workmate when using it. Just need to build the extension wings using some folding brackets as well as some other tool storage and a rail and stile cabinet door for the bottom part.

>>1923599
>no Oxford comma
Anon please

Wannabe woodman here,

Im looking to make a really basic computer desk, but not sure the best approach to the pane itself. It consists of 2 layers; the bottom is just glued panel, while the top Im think either equally thick Cedar planks fashioned into same panel manner, or cedar floor sheets. Is gluing the best method or there is a more correct way?

Pic is the bottom pane, the substrate maybe.

Does anyone use trowelable filler? I just did a beat floor by knifing in every joint with 4 lbs of normal filler. Slow and stupid on top of an already slow job of sanding down 1/4".

>>1923699
first It depends on what kind of woodworking tools you have, a table saw, circular saw, because if you even just have a circular saw, a sheet of decent quality cabinet grade baltic birch plywood and a guide for the saw would allow you to make a desk out of practically just that.

That's what I would do honestly, baltic birch for the supports of the desk, and then pick a hardwood, get some planks and glue them together and secure it with some brad nails or just with some woodscrews from the bottom of whatever you're attaching them to.

Cedar isn't something that I'd suggest for a desktop either, there's better hardwoods that would look better as a desktop. You should go to an actual lumber yard that carries imported and domestic hardwoods, get some 3/4" walnut, white oak, ash, maple, cherry or some other hardwood dimensioned boards that would be much easier to create a nice paneled desktop with.

You should also look into Sketchup, you can measure then create a prototype of what you want to build in there and get a better idea of how you're going to build it. It's extremely simple and easy to learn how to build woodworking projects in sketchup.

>>1923699
Just brace the planks. Cedar isn't brittle. Glue and screw some 1x2s.

>>1923662
Kinda fancy for a shop cab. I zoomed in expecting maple, not ply.

>>1923599
Downsides are low durability, standing water weakness, labor intensive french polish, never completely transparent even the super blonde. I'm definitely not a fan if it on tool handles. It's a good one to have on deck and fills some unexpected roles.

>>1923707
I'm getting in some practice, I'm pretty new to woodworking so I'm trying to learn and build some skills while fixing up my small workspace before I move onto making some cabinets and other furniture for my house.

>>1922329
It's a design feature. Fingers can transition smoothly from the hilt to the cutting edge.

>>1923716
You didn't tear out the ply, so you're likely in line to do well.

>>1922880

Very Nice, I like the laminate pattern.

>>1921819
im making a desk from spare 2x4s and hope to make the table top out of wood salvaged from pallets (fuck UK's cucked timber prices). provided i finish them correctly and the frame has aprons, is this a bad idea?

>>1923281
>>1923316
Thanks bros.
>>1923306
>>1923800
I raised one end of each length of timber up 10mm and alternated every second one before I glued, then squared the excess on the table saw.
The best thing about doing it was the way shadow gets cast on the rising ends, I'd never thought about that perspective until now

>>1923703
Im keen w/ SketchUp, just brainstorming ideas right now. I like Cedar cause love me some cedar smell. As far as tool, probably going to rent or borrow from construction friend.

Here is another idea, is it a good idea to have naked wood surface - sanded for smoothness, but otherwise just bare wood surface? No stain or clear coat; maybe brush w/ Cedar oil instead (I dont know).

9.25$ for 4/4 walnut at the nearest hardwood dealer am I getting jewed?

>>1923942
Cedar is often used for exteriors, things like fences, and it quite durable and waterproof just on its own, but you will still want to sand / plane the surface smooth and then finish it with a stain and finish. There's nothing wrong with stains, you can just get a natural stain that won't change the natural color of the wood, but will still help protect it and enhance the natural grain.

At the very least, you want to finish it with lindseed oil or something just for durability and water protection, but if you're doing things like eating or drinking on the desk you will want a polyurethane finish or something that will actually protect the wood for years.

>>1923942
Cedar is really soft for a table top - you need a penetrating coat and then a hard top coat if you want it to stay looking nice.
basis - built a cedar patio table with 3 coats of epoxy + 2 coats of spar varnish still needs a refinish after its 2nd summer. Inside might not be as bad.

>>1922457
yes - but you'd be better to groove / nail / glue on the top and bottom. long grain dovetails are easy to break.

slight ot, but which option would be better when building a fence?

There is no durable finish other than a paint that can survive UV exposure and being walked on for more than a year or two. Even most vertical surfaces won't survive long. Just a fact before you engineer something. If it won't be protected by a roof and or shade it'll look like shit and need constant refinishing. Think about it before you spend 50$/gal on finish.

>>1924052
thnaks. want to build an insert for my systainer toolbox and thought itd be a nice way to practice dove tails

>>1924064
>vertical surfaces
most wood facades here in europe look pretty good after a few years. mostly untreated larch

>>1924063
probably unnecessary to have a gap honestly, the wood shouldn't expand in the direction of the post. but maybe someone else here knows better. Only fencing I've ever built is vertical, not horizontal.

how the fuck do you use a jigsaw? I picked up a jigsaw the other day, put the blade in and set it to smallest throw. I also taped up the places where the cuts were suppose to go and drew cut lines over the masking tape as well. I also clamped a straight piece of wood to serve as a guide.
it came out looking like shit.
ugh... luckily I have few more junk boards to try again tomorrow.
any tips???

I have a 3/4" thick piece of wood that needs the edge to be fully rounded over. I have a router, but have never really used it.

Do I just buy a 3/4" round over bit and flip it around?

>>1923386
Arent dowels fragile and splintery, especially when getting drilled into lengthwise? Wouldnt it be like splitting a mini log?

>>1924480
Why would it splinter? It is confined on the sides

>>1924256
Jigsaws are fucking junk. Unsupported reciprocating saws are a bullshit meme.

Is yellow the same piece of wood? Do you think it's notched around orange? Or joined to orange?

>>1924696
is notched

Building a proper workbench for the first time, basing my design just on various images I've seen and some youtube videos. I want it to have a recess for my miter saw, as well as be an assembly bench that will have a few t-tracks, dovetail tracks, a vise, and some drawers and storage for tools and parts.

>>1923366
Shove toothpicks in hole. Glue recommended

An old Shopsmith has gone up for auction in my area. No motor and might be missing a few bits and bobs but all the big stuff is there and I have a spare motor that will work. I can't tell if it is a 10e or 10er. Does anyone know? I am hoping the missing motor will scare people off so I can get it cheap.

its my first wood carving animal and im stuck with this rabbit. could anyone help me with what shoud i do next? general tips for stuff like that are welcome

>>1925030
alright.

>>1925350
Doug Linkler on youtube covers a number of the most common figures, you have to learn the old man tree spirit santa face at some point. Alternatively, these things and their thousand variations don't take long once you get better at it.

>>1925350
Unless you mean detail carving, in which case switch to a smaller knife and figure out the more detailed planes and how to get texture with series of simple cuts. It's a lot like pencil sketching where it helps to see the general structure, some tricks and texture patterns, and then just fuck off and make your own. Short overlapping rows of shitty v cuts make good fur.

>>1925477
wow, that's beautiful

>>1925484
there is still a lot of work to be done before i go into details, but the problem for me now is that im stuck. im anxious to chip further since i lost my way with the plan i had. should i just still do it whatever and see what happens or do i try to draw sketches and make a proper plan?

>>1925819
It's wood and most whittling wood is cheap or free. It took me like 10 tries to get the 5 minute wizard down to 5 minutes and looking like a wizard---churn a few out, learn from your mistakes and have fun. Make a plan if you like making plans but don't be prescious with it. This is the one part of woodworking where it takes little time and no money so you're free to fuck up constantly.

What’s a good brand for vises?

>>1925936
Wilton

>>1925918
thank you so much

>>1925350
>could anyone help me with what shoud i do next?
yeah nigga turn on the fuckin lights lmaooo

>>1921819
lads
is this the right thread to ask about timber? im building some planter boxes and got a load of band sawn timber, it's treated and wet as fuck
it's supposed to be 150mm x 40mm but almost all of them are 155mm
i dont want to wait a year for these shits to dry, can I just screw everything together and deal with some cracking or should I adjust the design to allow some movement? how do people usually design outdoor stuff that might shrink/expand a few mm depending on the season, all of the spergs who made planter boxes on youtube dont seem to give a shit and just screw it together

Hey guys, big dilemma, small amount of money.

I want to buy a new power tool. Since i work a lot with pallets, i have two major problems - dismantling and sanding. Now, the problem is this - i want to buy a sander and a sawzall, but i only have money for one.

What to buy? A way to easily dismantle pallets in a mater of minutes or sanding down the rough wood quickly and practically?

Help a guy out, thanks in advance.

>>1926457
Can't you just dismantle them with a crowbar?

>>1926459
Nope, the pallets that are available to me have all have U bent spirally twisted nails, and those are practically impossible to remove without busting the plank. Rarely i find pallets with only spiral nails which are somewhat easier and the one that have ol' plain nails are found once in a blue moon.

>>1925936
What kind of vise?
Also Yost, especially their Ductile iron stuff.

I have a Yost 750-DI (got it for $120, amazon prices fluctuate wildly and its over $200 right now), it truly is a wonderful vise.
They sell a ductile iron 10" woodworking vise which looks really fucking nice too.

>>1926457
How can you be that poor anon?
You can walk into a day laborers office and get a single day job. Youll hold a going out of sale sign on the side of the street and youll walk away with enough money to buy both.
You could sell plasma and make enough money. This isnt a high bar youve set for yourself.

>>1926465
I'm an Europoor turd world citizen, my yearly salary is $4400 dollars, and I'm considered as one of the lucky-er ones.

>>1926467
I wouldn't call unemployment benefits a "salary".

>>1926457
Buy a used corded Milwaukee Sawzall. The quick change sort are best but the socket head blade securement screw variety are even cheaper. Then buy a used corded sander. Corded tools are a great way to be well equipped inexpensively with durable gear. If you don't have a used corded worm drive circular saw they kick major ass.
I buy cordless tools new and quality corded tools cheap used. Having a tool procurement strategy pays off and the more you have greater your options and convenience.

>>1926463
A face vise for my bench. The more I shop around, the less certain I am about which features i want.

I want to use some 2x4s for some projects but I don't really like the rounded edges, should I just miter them then rip them through a table saw 1/8"+ on each side to eliminate them or just deal with the slight displeasing aesthetics?

I've finally gotten my hands on a good sized piece of osage, how should I go about making it into a walking stick or shillelagh? Is it worth drying it out for a while first?

>>1926968
>shillelagh
just use the non-jewish word for club.

yes, dry it really good before working it, unless you want a retarded walking stick.

add a slingshot to the design to make it a better weapon

>>1926968
Doesn't a shillelagh traditional use the root ball of briar or such to have a nice thick club head?

So I'm building a desk for my girlfriend and for the top I edge glued some planks together. The joint in some places has a bit of a raised edge. What would be the best way of getting rid of the edge. Belt sander, surform, bench plane or what?

>>1926395
welp, i ripped everything down to 150mm and built it. if falls apart in a couple months due to shrinkage its your fucking fault

>>1927394
guess bench plane or power planer
taking a plate down a milimeter or two can take a while

>>1926968
How long is it? make a bow they're a lot of fun

>>1927550
this isn't a woodworking question, but i don't think it deserves its own thread so here goes

I used a hinge to raise a wooden pole upright. the wooden pole had enough weight to bend the hinge sideways. the wrong way.
what kind of hinge should i buy to make sure it can withstand the force from the sides?

>>1926968
Coat the ends in wax and dry for 6 months or so. Check for splitting and plan accordingly unless you know tinsmithing and like the wabi sabi mono no aware look. It's a moderate bitch to carve, hope your knives are decent or you like sharpening every 5 minutes. Plan ahead and keep it simple unless you've done say, 20 hours of woodcarving.

>>1927679
A bigger one.

Not sure what else I should incorporate into this design. I have very limited space, my garage is my workspace and I only have about 1/3rd of a 2 car garage as a workspace.

I wanted it to have a torsion box so that I can also use it as a smaller workbench, but it's also nice to have them for temporary part storage and whatnot.
I'm not sure if I should just leave the large middle gap open for storage of other tools or make more drawers or just some open sliding shelves.

Does anyone know what these brass fasteners could be called or if I could find something similar? I'm restoring a valet stand to flip online and its missing a couple of them

>>1927875
Vacuum spot.

>>1927991
I use a shop vac for everything, so I'd just be hooking up the miter saw to a hose that I'm gonna run out through the rear.

>>1927996
I SAID VACUUM SPOT

>>1928045
Calm down anon, jesus. You mean a put a small shop vac below it and just use that empty space for it?

How do I make a Japanese style (I think?) wood lathe hook-tool? I mean, I have found decent explanations but the images are shit quality and the sharpening descriptions vague.

>>1927927
Sex bolts

Wwg might be overkill but rest of the constitution threads are full of Yuros.
I'm trying to build a ghetto tree stand with my wood scraps. I already put up the two 2x6s between the trees (numbered 1 and 2 in pic) and trying to figure out what I should do for a platform. I have a metal 16x16" chair I plan to ratchet strap down.

What's the best way to attach the 2x4 box topped in plywood to the 2x6s? Should I put plywood on the bottom too?
Would it be better to put the top plywood on after and screw the 2x4s in at a 45 into the 2x6s (and the outside boards directly into the tree too, I'd have to lengthen the platform to 51" but that's nbd.)
I am mainly worried about the platform being 40" wide but the 2x6 base only being 10" wide. I don't want it to tip over backwards (or forward) and fall 18' to the dirt. I could bolt some tie down hooks and do some cross ratchet strapping to the trees.

>>1927875
>limited space
>making a mitresaw station
nigga what

>>1928154
Ok I managed to not fall off the ladder and get the frame up. I'm using L brackets and screws to connect the platform to the joists. I have some 6" deck screws I'll drill down through the 2x4s once I get some more brackets tomorrow and finish buttoning it up.
I also drilled through the end plates into the tree with 6" screws just for added peace of mind.
Ended up making it 36" deep instead of 40" and added an extra cross member.
Need some more spray paint.
Next step is deck and simple roof

>>1922310
That is a shitty opinion. What you posted is 10 times as hard to deal with and does less the work then a N.04

>>1922320
Do no listen to his anon. I think he is having a stroke. A N.04 is a perfect all around plane. Get a used Stanley N.04 on ebay. Cheaper then a new 04 and whatever the hell he posted. Look up paul sellers setting up a plane on youtube.

Burnt wood finish under shellac ive been playing with.

First thing I've carved in a decade. Knife and, gouges, and veining tool, then sandpaper, in ash.

Look what I got

Is there a list of /wwg/ approved (entry level) tools? want to expand my diy beyond electronics but don't know anything about power tool brands

>>1928767
brand doesn't matter all that much, a circular saw is going to be a circular saw, a drill / driver is going to.. drill and drive. There's really not that much difference in quality between most tool brands, the only thing you should look for is something with a lifetime warranty and make sure you actually register the tool right after you buy it so that if there's ever a problem you can get it replaced. Ridgid for example if you shop at Home Depot has lifetime warranties on their tools and I've actually taken advantage of it once before when I was having an issue with my circular saw motor burning out.

I mean honestly if you're wanting to jump into furnuture making or whatever, a circular saw is probably the best bang for your buck tool you can get, you can do joinery with it (cross laps), use it to cut up plywood with a guide, easily miter boards with a framing square, all for <$100 cor a corded 6.5" or 8" saw, or a little more for a battery operated one.

Also probably would need a drill and driver set at minimum, which are also incredibly cheap and affordable since they often come bundled together.

Some autists though buy shit like festool which is extremely expensive. Granted, some of their tools are really nice, but you're paying hundreds of dollars extra for a relatively minimal gain in features and quality.

Watch Steve Ramsay on youtube though, I'm sure others ITT would recommend him too for getting into woodworking. Really good guy who has a lot of good tutorial videos for people that don't want to spend out the ass on tools.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHauRpxsmt8

>>1928698
Correct me if im wrong but you should not run screws into trees.
Either nails or tie it on with rope

Strokeposter here
>>1928706
>>>>>alroundplane
>want to take thick shaving
>adjust frog, adjust chipbreaker
>now want it to smooth
>adjust frog and chipbreaker again
No thanks id rather have different planes for different task. Keep in mind a wooden single iron is 10-25€
Shipping a no 4 from uk is 17 in itself
And planing dusty rough lumber with your smoother kills the edge in no time

>>1929020
Why not screws they have much higher pullout strength. The trees are on their way out so it's only got to last a couple years.

I'm planning on making a reel stand and haven't done any serious wood working before. Would pic related be stable with really long screws going through the base into the 2x2 or would I need brackets or some other kind of support? The reels can weigh up to 16oz. Also what kind of wood looks good with brass? Any visible design flaws?

>>1921819
A maple tree came down on my property and was cut into logs about 6' long back in March. I now want to make discs out of some of them and turn them into cutting boards, clocks, charcuterie boards, etc. The challenge, as I understand it, is drying them so they don't split.

Some sources on the internet say it's impossible, some say you can use pentacryl, some say you can make some kinda paste. I've cut a whole bunch of discs of varying thicknesses already with a chainsaw, but also have some logs left whole. What's my best way of drying these out in a food safe manner?

>>1929255
Paste wax or paraffin smeared liberally on the ends. Then you just wait and hope.

>>1929270
Should I keep them inside or outside? I also have a garage.

>>1928698
Well I haven't died yet despite the weather. Ratchet strapped up the plywood decking and screwed it down. Added a big eyebolt into the tree to attach an "oops you fell asleep and rolled out of the stand" arrester.
I threw a rope around the front (and back) and did a jump test (from the ground) and it didn't move. Seems skookum enough for a ~250lb static load.
Have to bring up the seat and ratchet strap it down, maybe add a little shelf too. Do a quick paint job on the bottom side.

>>1929288
Garage would be better and sometimes faster, but it's a controlled humidity thing. You want it low but not so low it dries out too quickly and splits. I'd look up general humidity ranges and pick what works better where you are. Freezing temps also split it so indoors is probably best if you aren't in the desert or have some weird hvac.

>>1929319
Freezing temps are just about here now where I live, so I think I'll bring them inside. Garage isn't heated or humidity controlled so that's probably not a great idea, but I have plenty of disks so I'll leave a couple out there for science. Indoors isn't humidity controlled either but I can just buy a dehumidifier.

Hardwood floor repair question.

I need to clean up the mistakes of another hardwood floor finisher. They left a lot of areas around the trim that didn't take the stain. There is a door transition that sticks out 3 different hues. There is a large burned in about 1/4" damage that looks like a dog turd.

My plan is to strip the poly and sand back until I can get stain into the parts that didn't take. Or I'll use a gel stain and maybe an amber shellac to force them to the desired color. Does this sound reasonable?

How about the deep burned in blemish? I doubt it can be pulled up with water and an iron. I think this is worst case and I'd have to cut out the piece and patch it.

>>1929319
Should I keep the bark on or take it off?

>>1929415
Leave it on. You've now left what little I know and entered the realm of broscience from here out.

>>1929424
I'm also looking into microwaving a couple of them

>>1929432
Found some guy wrote his doctoral thesis on microwaving wood holy fuck

https://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:999526/FULLTEXT01.pdf

>>1929434
>Division of Wood Physics
This is the most svensk thing I've ever seen.

How and where do you store wood for seasoning in such a way as to minimise cracking? I have long term woodworking plans for a log but it will need at least a year or two of drying first

Let's fuckin do this boys

Starting weight is 940g

>>1929777
Have been microwaving it every ~45 minutes for 2:30 and its now down to 805g. Tiny cracks are appearing. I guess I should've let it cool completely and entirely before microwaving each time.

>>1929902
LoL. Black walnut will lite on fire in a microwave.

I have 0 woodworking experience, and ages ago imagined building these curvy mirror things

just now I see this
https://www.instagram.com/p/CGKaRStDOoo/?igshid=1ppwy93005mms

Is this feasible? If I coat the wood in something once it is smoothed could I use something like chrome paint?

>>1930015
Yes, you can in fact paint wood.

>>1929902
You should grind a bunch of metal dust and rust into some water then soak that into the wood before you microwave it.

>>1930056
I mean effectively paint it for a mirror like finish

>>1930008
Good thing it isn't black walnut

>>1930057
Smart idea, can epoxy in the excess after its done drying

>>1930068
You'll want to buff the shit out of the paint and following clear coats. This is after you've already spent hours contouring it with an angle grinder with carving blade and then sanded it a number of times to probably at least to 220. The contours will make the polishing process a pain in the ass.

Depending on the wood you choose, there will be grain and knots exposed. You can grain fill; but I would probably go with an MDF if you want cheap, soft for carving, and uniform.

>>1930015
Imagine having to clean that shit

>>1930169
I'm going tp try the crafting part first on smaller pieces of wood

>>1930547
I want to hang it on a wall so it shouldn't get dirty

Making a small table with hairpin legs on the corners. If I glue/clamp these pieces together will it be strong enough to support itself, or does it require a crossbar or something?

>>1922883
I like how you sharpied a batman symbol onto it

>>1925030
I might suggest offsetting the mitre saw bay to either side depending on where this bench is intended to go. I often cut 8+ feet lumber and the end needs somewhere to go as I cut. What I'm saying is that you need space either to the left or right of the saw for the offcut.

>>1930674
Yeah, that's actually what I ended up doing, I ditched the idea of incorporating it with a outfeed table and just decided to build a dedicated miter saw stand in >>1927875

I'm still going to build a smaller outfeed table though that will serve as an assembly table too, but I wanted my miter saw stand to incorporate a ton of storage for my tools.

Hdjdjf

I had my floor done with a water based polyurethane over 24 hours ago. It's about a 6x10' space and is dry to the touch but still smells. Is it safe for humans and more importantly cats?

>trying to buy 1 plank of hardwood
Jfc, is there a harder thing to do for a hobbyist?

>>1931379
Depends where you're buying from, most lumbar yards usually have a cutoffs pile of exotic hardwoods that you can pick through, at least my local guys do.

>>1931379
I've had some good luck buying random boxes of exotic cut offs. Not really a plank, but with some glue you can do some cool stuff.....or a nice stair tread should be easy to come by.

>>1931379
Depends where you're buying from, most lumber yards usually have a cutoffs pile of exotic hardwoods that you can pick through, at least my local guys do.

>>1921819
I am carving a house number sign out of oak.
How do I finish it?
When I bought the wood I bought some stain, some poly, and some black oil based enamel paint.
So do I stain, then paint letters, then poly over the whole thing?

>>1929777
>>1929902
Reduced it to 2 minutes at half microwave power. Now down to 610g and I let it cool for a few hours before putting it back in. The cracks seem to have closed up a bit so that's good. I figure I'll stop once the weight stops going down.

>spend years teaching myself and learning ww
>buying and restoring antique hand tools
>eventually build nice workbench, tool cabinets and install proper lighting for the shop
>boomer stepdad call me up ((( )))
>"hey kiddo, want to spend a week at our place building all that stuff for us in our dirt basement? should be real easy!"
>load up half my tools, bits, saws into car and drive hundreds of miles to boomertopia
>look at wood available on the ground in the corner behind generations of clutter
>pile of discount t&g, flooring, discarded deck pieces, some oddly shaped plywood
>uh I suggest we start with some saw horses
>"no lets build some benches"
I'm building two saw horses then fucking right off.

>>1931780
Some jobs aren't mobile. The cabinet shop doesn't build the cabinets are your house. But contractors have to do a lot of tasks with just a skilsaw and miterbox.

>>1921819
How do I start to buy stuff from a mill? When I google places I could go nothing really shows up.

Big box stores like menards has different hardwoods but for some fucking reason theyre stupid expensive and wrapped in plastic.

Im confident enough to start working with more durable materials but I am at a loss for how to source it

>>1932176
Look for exotic wood suppliers in local city. Mills generally aren't going to sell to an individual unless you are buying a trucks worth.

>>1924570
>>>1924256
>Jigsaws are fucking junk. Unsupported reciprocating saws are a bullshit meme.

Jigsaws are great for doing work on ply where the edge isn't too important and there are alot of curves. No tool is ever useless just because you don't have a use for it.

I'm looking at restoring my grandmother's hanes brothers piano. By the serial number (14418) it's an 1875
What do I need to know about working with old wood? A few chunks are missing, what should I get it replace them/how do I attach with it still looking good?
The wheels still roll but are very rusty so I'll be looking at naval jelly or something but I am a little weary about unscrewing them

>>1932524
Right now I just have the legs and the pedals because it's in her garage 8 hours away and I don't want to move something so heavy until I need to

>>1932526
Also is this wood original? It looks like faster growth than the rest

>>1932527
Forgot pic

>>1926462
You could always tap in some wedges between the decking and the frame. Then feed a hack saw blade though and cut the nails. Might get you through until you can find a cheap sawsall

>>1926457
Cutting clean sections of wood is a good method of salvaging pallets.

Get the Sawzall.

You can use a cheap wood rasp to smooth boards for now.

>>1921819
>Poronvarsi blade.
Excellent taste, my friend.

>>1922329
That's a fairly common puukko design.

>>1923662

HELLO!! MY NAME IS GUSTAFF!!

two suggestions:

dont cut plywood on angle. the idea is bad. but you can round up the edges. and cover it with thick water transparent polished lack. you can use even fucking car lack. it is cheap and can take hard punches.. dont put the rollers way into corner. you will roll over your feet and scratch other furniture with those. all what you can allow to be shown must be the brake button/pedal. additionally ma nigga why the fuck did you choose red rollers, when your fucking box is lacked ply wood and brown alu? btw. use thinner ply wood plates for drawers. dont make them heavy looking and being heavy.

>>1932701
I dont know what I'm going to stick this one in. It's bigger than most exotic blanks and antlers. Fug.

>>1921819
oh my god tear off the tags holy shit

>>1932773
He might want to return them though

>>1932774
Never remove the tags from anything from harbor freight.

>>1932778
I just exchanged an old broken clamp from there. Lifetime warranty on a piece of junk that bends when you tighten ain't that bad

>>1932754
God damn, Poronvasi makes the most beautiful Lapin leuku blades. Your answer is stacked birch (koivu) bark, stacked leather or the biggest birch burl you can find.

Watch some Osmo "Thetopicala" youtube vids where he shapes a handle for a Marrttini or Poronvarsi leuku for inspiration.

(I would have assumed you were Osmo except your knuckles aren't hairy.)

>>1932794
I've watched them all but sourcing big fuggen wood is an issue if you aren't cutting burl yourself. I might be cutting some black cherry burl, most antlers are out, I'm locally sourcing and we killed all the good megafauna where I live.

Ok so i just moved into this place at it had this monstrosity already in place, its made out of pine wood and as you can see its very unevenly tinted, also it doesnt seem like the wood was sanded at all its quite rought to the touch particularly on the sides where it was cut theres also some holes and cavities where bugs can go trough. I like the general design of the furniture and even the color but the execution and finish is terrible, so since i have seen no indication of thermites im determined to "restore it" and finish it up. My idea is to have it end up with a similar tint to what it was but evenly applied and eventually with a piano type style smooth finish. These are the steps i intend to follow to achieve this according to the research i made:

-Modify doors to make sure they are even (ill just carefully sand the top and bottom parts so i make sure they are in a straight line)
-Remove all possible iron work (some i can't remove because its what keeps it together and im not sure i could put it back again if i disasemble it)
-Fill in all holes and unevenes with wood putty
-Sand everything with 100 grit-Repeat putty and sanding until it's even and most of the color has been removed
-Sand with 220 grit putty and sand again-Re add tint evenly, let dry and add another coat.
-Add polyurethane barnish, 5 coats, sanding with 220 grit between each coat
-Sand with 800 and then 1000 and then if possible 1200-1500 grit
-Buff and polish
-Re add ironwork

some clarifications: i'll clean everything thorougly between coats, i'll use an orbital sander to make the work easier but im guessing i'll have to sand the corners manually.

Do you think this process will give off a good result if done properly, do you think there are steps missing or some that are unnecesary?
another question, why is there something called polyurethane barnish that comes in a single can and another that comes as two different components?
many many thanks for any reply cheers!

>>1927174
Shillelaghs are irish, not jewish.

>>1922039
Bed. Table. Simple night stand. Dog water food holder.

>>1921819
I bought a slab of bamboo countertop to use as a desk, but it's unfinished. I'm not familiar with woodworking, what's a good/easy way to finish it? I couldn't find any guide online other than for countertops to sand it with 400 grit then apply 6 coats of tungseed oil letting it cure a week between each coat. I think that is excessive for my purposes, what do you guys recommend? I don't need it to be food grade or anything, I just want it to be smoother and water resistant

>>1933069
*tung oil

>>1933069
A couple of coats of brush on poly will protect it better than tung. I tend to poly armor everything.

>>1928698
I would definitely lag bolt that bitch onto those trees.

>>1933069
There are faster oil finishes. The "tung oil finish" as opposed to "pure tung oil" will have driers added to improve the polymerization time greatly. Same with boiled linseed oil. Polyurethane like the other anon said is strong and waterproof (unless you have a ton of layers of tung oil its only water resistant) though it has a different look than an oil finish. For a desk it may not matter to maximize every bit of water resistance unless you eat a lot there. Normal polyurethane does yellow in sunlight though, but bartop polyurethane supposedly won't, if you will have it near a window.

>>1933073
>>1933096
thanks anons. I do eat a lot at my desk, I'll go with the poly since it's not near a window anyway

>>1933069

Do you want to have some fun with it , or just get it done? You could probably just buy some spray on poly, do a few coats, and be done with it.

What's the best low-end benchtop jointer? I've been wanting to get one for my shop for a while but I don't want to spend over $300. Should I just browse local craigslist until I find one?

>>1932909
Honestly, that seems like a ton of work for something that doesn't look all that great in the first place. I'd just rip it out and build a nicer set of cabinets with plywood with hardwood frames and cabinet doors.

If you're going through with it though, I would just try to completely disassemble everything, and then plane the surfaces to remove the finish and then stain it again and apply polyurethane, sand, buff and polish. Seems like it will be a hell of a lot easier to work with individual boards and then just re-assemble everything after you're done working.

and this is the kind of jointer I'm leaning towards if I do get one
I'm pretty sure the craftsman branded ones they sell at home depot / lowes are just rebranded porter cables.

My local craigslist has no jointers I can find anyone selling though so I'm thinking I'll just end up getting something like this.

>>1933179
I have that one and like my WEN 13 thickness planer, it works well enough, but only take light passes with it.

I was talking to a guy who was hating on my WEN planer saying he had one and the gearing broke. Turns out he was taking over 1/8th of an inch in each pass which was probably too much stress on the gears. I tend to shave a 16th of an inch or less per pass.

That PC is likely off the same line as a Craftsman, like you said, and I feel mine is a little underpowered, so be gingerly with how much you shave at a time.

>>1933179
>>1933193

>>1933197
>>1933193
Interesting, I've seen the Wen stuff on Amazon too, pretty cheap, chinese-made tools, but they're not terrible value at all. That guy trying to plane 1/8" at a time is definitely a moron though, that seems like way too much to take off in a single pass.

I'll probably end up getting the porter cable off amazon I think.

>>1933220
I find the WEN tools I own are great once calibrated/tuned. The WEN thickness planer is 0.006 higher on the right than the left and I'm unsure of how to fix that, but it's not really an issue and gets cleaned up on sanding.

Every WEN rotary tool I have is fine as long as I don't overdo it beyond the duty cycle.

>>1933230
The in feed and out feed tables should be adjustable for height.

>>1933220
dont get a benchtop jointer unless you only make short stuff. i have one and although its decent at what it does, its very frustrating trying to joint longer boards. now im on the hunt for a proper full sized one and will sell my bench top

>>1933179
I have one like that except the brand is Cutech/Wahuda, they take the blades out and replace it with a helical carbide insert cutter.

The finish on the jointed wood is amazing but overall the jointer is not very good because the fence is horrible. You can true faces of stock very well on it but you cannot reliably get a precise 90 degree face due to the dogshit filmsy design of the fence.

If you can get one of those older heavy cast iron jointers and have the room for it, I would highly recommend going through the hassle of getting a big heavy finnicky jointer over these benchtop ones.

>>1933585
I do have he Cutech/Wahuda planer though with the same helical carbide insert cutter head and that is very nice.

>>1933179
Dont leave your jointer on and they stick your hand into it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOkvx8Uk0Ic

>>1933230

There will either be fine tuning screws on each corner of the thicknesser table on a nice model, or make the sprockets skip a link on the chain that attaches the four corner jack screws together on the cheaper ones.

I just had to do the latter on my new Record machine to true it up. Between the 3mm thread pitch on the jack screws and the 15 tooth sprockets it adjusts in .2mm increments, so it might be off as far as .1mm across the full width of the table. Now if only I could get the damn outfeed roller to quit marring the finish.

>>1933539
>>1933671
It's not the table, it's the cutter head. Not sure how to even it out on the screws.

>>1933589
....how??

>>1933230
there should be some adjustment screws on the inside of the planer for the platen

>>1933589
ok, just watched the video on how it happened and it doesn't seem far fetched in a loud shop with hearing protection on
those safety guards are definitely annoying as fuck to deal with, these companies spend all their time and money on marketing and none on a crucial part of the jointer to the point it is so obnoxious to use a lot of people take it off.

They could also put a simple light on them to signnal when they are running for like an added cost of 1 dollar in manufacturing.

>>1933589
Taking off the blade cover is the equivalent of taking off the riving knife on a table saw. It's essential.

>>1933731
maybe one of the knifes is tiltled/sticking out on one side

>>1933747
Is the guard that bad? I have never really had an issue with it. I just have a Jet. I am more annoyed by the circular saw guard, though I leave that on too.

>>1933923
On a lot of bench top ones the guard can be annoying in how it opens, you see a lot of ppl remove them
it looks like the guard was on the jointer for the guy that lost his fingers, just that it was pushed open by the boards resting on the infeed table

>>1933923
circular saw guards piss me off, but I'd never actually remove mine. The only useless guard are those clear ones they have for table saws. All you really need is the riving knife. Those bulky guards just make it too hard to see your piece as you're cutting.

>>1933953
>circular saw guards piss me off
losing fingers or worse must be quite more pissing of as an experience. Remember that most accident happen to experimented people who get too confident, not to newbies

>>1933957
true. Seems like when you let your guard down after spending thousands of hours woodworking is when you're more likely to have an accident

>>1933926
I shuddered when I watched the video when he explains the accident. Shit makes my blood run cold. It makes me want to take the full Paul Sellers pill and go full hand tool.

>>1933957
That's why I never removed mine. The circular saw just seems like something that could cause a lot of damage from a second of carelessness.

>>1933926
>>1933960
>>1933969

please bros i urge you, never lose respect for your tools, stay safe

>>1933972
Never will, I take all proper precautions and am scared as fuck of losing a finger or something. I've actually become more safe as I've gotten deeper into woodworking after a very close call with a kickback several years ago.

what can I make out of my scrap walnut? they're not quite a foot long, some 1x2s some 1x1s

>>1933953
I have a contractor table saw and it has no riving knife, is that something you can stick on most table saws? (I think it's an old rockwell delta)

I fucking hate using it. The thing that scares me isn't the blade its kickback which I've had happen once.

>>1934210
If we want to get technical, a riving knife moves up and down with the blade, so just adding one on would have to be attached accurately to the trunion. It may or may not be easy or possible to do.

You can add a splitter quite easily to any table saw though, which isnt as safe but they still are better than nothing

i recently finished a storage shelf for in the shop.
it's mostly lumber i hauled home from job sites that would have been thrown away.

i got a bit sloppy with the 1/4 round molding, but i suppose it gives me something to work harder to improve next time

and nobody else is going to see them anyway so what ever

What's the most meaningful thing you've made /wwg/?

Got my hands on some quality wood from two old trees we took down, and I'm itching to make something memorable

>>1934602
Small, intricate things or japanese level joinery are probably the most satisfying. Boxes or odd but useful furniture depending on the size and quality of your cuts.

>>1934799
God I wish more people appreciated Japanese joinery. I feel like if I were to make something along those lines the sheer amount of practice and effort involved would be lost on everyone.

>>1935137
The average person has been so conditioned to consume [brand name] that the amount of labor that goes into even a hand knit wool sweater is beyond their comprehension. Not to mention most jobs are so far removed from making or doing anything inherently useful or valuable in itself, the value of man-hours and skill is lost. The only ones in this world who still appreciate craftsmanship are in some way artists, craftsmen themselves, or have loads of money from their own creative endeavor and oversight of what man-hours mean.

>>1935189
I feel like I'm only friends with the first half because I can do some things they can't and tie it all together aesthetically and have a huge working knowledge of exotic and archaic materials and processes. You end up trading tables for leatherwork or getting free shit because you can do shit with rice glue and a chisel.

>>1934602
this is the first guitar ive finished
I made 5 before but got them like 75% complete and then lost interest

>>1935243
it has an aluminum neck and aluminum spines that hold it together
no real highly skilled tool use but router processes were complex and I had to figure it all out how to get seamless joints
also had to start learning TIG welding and how to use a mill and lathe

>>1921830
>2020
>radial arm saw

OK BOOMER

Baby's first project question here.
I have this nice cherry wood table which had some water stains and stuff. I sanded it down and now it looks nice. Can I use mineral oil to 'deepen' the color and finish it off with a mat transparent varnish? I'm scared of those two interacting or something.

>>1935258
I wouldn't use mineral oil. It tends to not dry and your varnish could delaminate. I'd go with tung, tru or danish, let it cure for 4-5 days and then top coat.

>>1935243
>>1935246
Really cool, anon. I'm working on my first Strat clone these days.

>>1935266
Thanks! I'll go for one of those instead of mineral

>>1926627
That or use a jointer or a plane to edge them up

>>1926395
Dont give a shit and screw it together. If Im laying deckboards or building a fence with very wet wood I butt the planks together with no gap and when it dries you'll have a good 1/8-/14 inch gap.

>>1930664
If your edges are flat and well jointed, yes glue will be enough.

>>1932909
>>1933178
Rip them out and start again. If you use stain on pine, or any softer wood,make sure you use a wood conditioner before you apply the stain or it will look like yours does. 5 coats of stain is a lot. The wood can only hold so much.

Lovely bloody anons, I just wanted to share this project I saw the other day on Kickstart, it's about 26 hours of video of a traditional Japanese woodworking course held in Kyoto, Japan

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1911438091/online-japanese-woodworking-classroom-learn-in-english

It's only 9 days away from the deadline so I hope it can make it. If you're interested please consider cooperate with the project, even with the smallest donation. I went with the full pledge so if the project reaches the budget I'm willing to share the videos with the interested anons.

>>1921819
This is probably a very basic and stupid question, but how would I cut a 30° triangle shaped piece of wood? Imagine that it's 6 in from the tip to the right angle, and however tall it would take to make 30°. I have chop saw, a table saw, and a circular saw at my disposal. However, I've only ever cut right angles, so I'm not really sure how I would go about cutting exactly 30°. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Basically I'm trying to make a wedge out of wood so that I can put a machine on it and use that machine at an angle. I was thinking to cut two of these triangles and then have a flat piece of plywood laying across the top and somehow maybe a couple pieces of 2x2 or something on the bottom to keep it sturdy.

Would peat moss have the same wood drying/hardening effect as standard peat over a period of around a year?

I have a rather silly question and google isnt going to help me if i cant be more specific.
But i have bought a bunch of connectors and dowel for a project and the down is literally 8mm to thick to fit snuggly into the connectors.
Is there anything i can get to evenly file/plane/cut down the dowel to fit into the connectors?
Or more specifically would anyone know the name of the tool or bit i would need to do it?

>>1936311
You can sand the dowel to make it thinner. Just hold the dowel in one hand, sandpaper in the other. Grip the dowel with the paper and rotate. It'll be real quick work.

no knoife thread up, asking here
i was tasked to make a woodhandle for pic rel. never done that before and no idea how to design this
The tang seems weird to me

If i do it out of two shells it will be tiny and no connect to the guard as the tang seems not sized right for this style
If i do a one piece and glue the tang in there i will only have 3-4mm of meat on the edge and i fear it will crack while. Tangs for this style handle seem to me much narrower and tapered

What am i supposed to do?

>>1921977
I use a #7 # 4 and #3 for mainstays

Got into hoarding and got a #8, bevel plane, a Japanese plane and a coffin smoother at a garage sale

>>1921996
The #4 is pretty average, you need to get some Hock blades to make them tame wild grain

>>1925066
That kind of bed makes it hard to get aftermarket tool rests.

Lot of rush on the ways

>>1925954
Old Records are good. I love my twin screw Lee Valley one but it was a bitch to mount due to my non standard bench top I made for it.

The nuts are capped with a square steel plate that needs to be countersunk and I had to remove the end plate off my bench top

You'll need a metal vice. There are always pieces of metal you'll need to clamp up to work on

>>1927550
I've been harvesting some yew to last while for this

>>1927195
That's what I thought, my Uncle Colm had one. Tradition says you use a wood like persimmon or hawthorn.

>>1936542
That's just a regular full tang knife. Don't you have a good butchers knife to inspect?
Id take two pieces of wood 1 inch thick and as long as the tang. Shape them so they are the same but opposite. Use three rivets to hold them in place. You don't want to end up with a handle that is 2+ inches thick, but that thick will let you work it down. You could probably start with two half inch pieces instead.

>>1936645
thats what i meant with the two shells i mentioned
i would be left with a gab on the guard and a short handle
the tang just doesnt look like its the right size for this, thats why im asking if theres something special to this or if the blade is just made to shit dimensions

ugh im better not wasting valuable wood on this

>>1936542

>>1936648
I think it is like that so you can shape it to your liking. I don't know what you mean by "gab".

>>1936648
It's probably a half or 3/4 tang, it's pinned no matter how you do it there's little worry of cracking the scales. I'm a little worried you got into bladesmithing while knowing none of the basic terminology (and therefore having done no research).

>>1936718
i misspelled gap
if i make the handle the same width as the tang i wont have a clean interface to the guard
at this point im confident the guard doesn't fit that tang
>>1936756
>I'm a little worried
not at all
a relative of mine bought this shitty blade and tasked me to do the handle
6 hours ago i didnt know shit about knifes, thats the first time i read of 3/4 tang but it sure is a good keyword
>It means the tang reaches three quarters of the length of the handle.
This solves the length issue

will post pics when im done

>>1936535
I have to do this on almost 25 connections so i was hoping to find something to automate this process.

>>1936311
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUgoXTiERRQ

dowel plate?

>>1936968
Chuck the dowel up in a drill, it will speed the process. Or, you could make a ghetto lathe. Or, you could enlarge the holes. Or, you could buy the appropriately sized dowel.
It seriously takes a few minutes to sand the dowels down, you could have been done ten times over by now lol.

>>1926457
You own a decent plane? A real crosscut saw?
I couldn't see working lumber that small with anything more than hand tools. I think you've got a solution in search of a problem, there.

1. Cut planks. 2m each.
3. Shoot endgrain, smooth faces. 3m each.
Dassit. Plane so you don't sand til the very end, do it well and you are literally only sanding to finish.

Not sure if this goes here, but whatever.

I'm looking to add a backboard to my desk for mounting my monitor and other things.
Question is: how do i attach the backboard at a 90 degree angle in a secure and nice looking manner?
I thought about trying to attaching it using fittings on under the desk and behind the board, but i somehow doubt that it will stay secure and not wobble... Any other good way to do this?

>>1928767
It really depends what you're trying to make, but I would like to recommend the craftsman 10" table saws that you can find on craigslist for $100. Check out youtube for info on how to upgrade and restore them, and after $200 in extras you'll have a pretty damn good table saw.

>>1937280
dove or finger join, dowel, screws and finish washers, miter, finish or brad nails, mortise, splines, or cleat behind

>>1937398
the only tools i have are a drill/screwer and a hammer btw.

>>1937280
That won't be secure. A monitor is decently heavy. That will have the risk of wallowing out the holes any time you have to touch it, and will start leaning/being wobbly. There should be some sort of bracing structure or gusset. You should also use glue.

>>1937417
Just so we're clear. the top/backboard piece is going to be resting on the table itself, using the bracket as a brace so it wont wobble. The bracket itself could be much larger as well, so it reaches further up on on the backboard, and further back under the desk.
I think something like pic related, where its butt-joined with glue and screws as well as having the bracket would be pretty solid.

>>1937402
You're good.
Wayfair and Ikea literally cam-lock everything. Every method in this thread is better than that.

can i see some furniture you guys have done? particularly desks

Can anyone help me identify this wood? I've tried but I cant figure it out.

>>1937781
Mahogany?

>>1937796
I think you're right anon. Thanks.

>>1936766
Any update?

will a second cut or swiss #0 file work for shaping hard wood or do I really need a rasp?

>>1937920
Not yet
Maybe i start working on it today, but i didnt even pick the wood yet

I recently acquired a nice olive wood bowl (no lacquer, untreated, single piece). I know olive is considered a very dense and water-resistant wood, so I thought to turn into my shaving bowl as it's the right size and shape; it will have to hold hot water for a short time, then be scrubbed with shaving soap to create lather and washed off. I'd use is 3 times a week.

Am I being an idiot, and should expect the wood to deteriorate? If so, how should I best treat it in-between uses to make sure it doesn't rot?

>>1937465
The bracket won't prevent wobble. The steel is too thin and is readily flexible. Think of that back board as a lever, and the monitor as a constant load on that lever. A diagonal brace making the "L" shape in your picture a triangle instead would help a lot. Or making it a rectangular box for better aesthetics (plus you could add shelves or something for your speakers).

>>1938147
i cant say for certain but i think you will be fine.
Thinned soap in itself is a good protection if applied regularly.
decades back in German Taverns they soaped their acorn tables after every buiseness day as part of the cleaning procedure. After a year of doing this they became stain resistant as the soap filled all the pores.
Back then they mixed their own soap and ive read there should be extended brakes between the first few applications, so maybe start out slow and coat the outside too

>>1938236
Didn't know that but it does make sense. I'll give it a try!

>>1938236
Finns have been using mäntysuopa on their floors for years. Hardens the pine over time.

>>1938228
I see. You're probably right on the first park about it being a lever.

I don't understand what you mean about a triangle or box. Can you illustrate it?

Identifying wood; dark, hard, slightly oily, and makes this green colored dust when processed. I'm thinking its some kind of tropical hardwood but can't figure out which. Will my newly made chopsticks poison me?

>>1929062
Screws snap, nails bend

How did the old timers get their lumber for furniture making? Was there a standard size they would order or would it be tailored to each piece?

>>1938941
One size fits all boards.

>>1938953
What was that one size?

>>1935408
Worked on this some more. Unfortunately, the glue doesn't take the stain, so it made the edge look stippled where the wood filler takes the stain but glue doesn't.

overall it looks good though. I should have used a nicer piece of wood for the center, since so much attention gets drawn to it.

>>1921977
4 ½ has my vote. I also use a low angle block plane and next probably a #11 jointer. I have another 4½ set up with a aggressive curve as a scrub plane.

Check out Grizzly planes if you are on a budget. One of those plus an hour or so of lapping and setup can give great results. My block is a Lie Nielsen and I love it.

>>1938286
Brazilian walnut, IPE, aka luxury hardwood flooring.

asking again what kind of tool I should get to shape some walnut. should I get a nicholson bastard cut rat tail rasp, a narex fine cut round rasp, or a grobet 0 cut round file? I already have a plane and a patternmaker rasp I just need something to cut flutes.

>>1927833
Thanks anon.
Would candle wax or woodworkers wax be better? I've used butter in the interim but if that's an inferior sealant then I'll remove it. Currently there's no sign of major cracking.

>>1939311
I have narex rasps, they cut fast and are cheap. I paid ~12€ for a 200mm one
Keep in mind the coarsness depends on the length, the shorter rasps are finer than the long ones

I was just wondering, I am trying to figure out a comparison and needed to estimate how long it make take to woodwork this piece. Any ideas on how much time it might take to make with the average full stocked woodshop with mills, lathes, etc...?

Got one of these fuckers all dried out and now I need to smooth/level it out. I've heard running it through a thickness plane can be explosive, and I don't have a power sander.

I noticed a bunch of hand planes on sale here:
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/lee-valley-and-veritas-seconds-event?utm_campaign=70510_VeritasSecondsSale-CA&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Lee%20Valley%20&dm_i=6EER,1IEM,12WO8A,6VW8,1

But I don't know shit about them. What kind of hand plane do I want to smooth the faces of this disc?

I'm back. Sanded table, oiled with boiled linseed oil (2 passes, 24h between), let it dry for 48h inside the house and then put a matte varnish on it. This was the result overnight. There's these white-ish, bumpy, goopy spots that easily rub off with some pressure. The strange thing is that some 'planks' have it completely and on others it's just spots. Some parts of the table look fine (but still feel kinda goopy).

Am I using the wrong varnish or should I just have let the oil dry for longer? Am I fucked? I'm curious to know what happened and advice on how to proceed.

>>1939311
Get a shinto rasp. $20 and absolutely my favorite hand tool. I round over wood with that in minutes.

>>1939856
Hell, just buy yourself a hardware store power sander and get it done. Using a hand plane on a larger surface is a pain in the ass.

>>1940060
Actually good call, I had planned to build a big disc sander but realistically buying a sander would be cheaper than one of those planes

>>1939856
I did pretty much the same thing with a 2ft diameter slice. I used a belt sander, and I had the wood on a base that spins...that thing got movin!

How loud and noisy is your 4x36 belt sander?
I just bought one, out of the box with no belt on, it squeals on startup and it squeals when you cut the power and it spools down.

It has a geared belt so it shouldnt squeal at all right?
Also me just turning it on and off trying to see where the noise is, the belt is getting scorching hot and the motor is getting really warm too.

Its 60 degrees F in my garage right now, I havent even sanded anything with it.
Did I just get a lemon? Its a local store so if I use it a bunch and it dies 2 weeks from now I wont be able to return it. Im thinking about returning it right now.

>>1938264
the word he's looking for is gusset, look at images of that

>>1940132

>>1940004
I only need to remove a small amount of wood. basically just the circled areas.

>>1940098
No. I suspect the hex head screws on one or both of the belt pulleys isn't tightened all the way. Mine did the same thing out of the box and that fixed it.

>>1926395
My homegrowmen over on /out/ have said that treated wood will be bad for a garden box. Something about the treating chemicals leaching in to the soil then the plant. Not sure how detrimental it is - but they recommend cedar

>>1939856
Did it dry as a whole log? My slices always crack

>>1937773
Desk/arts and crafts desk I built for my fiance. It is the first furniture item I've ever made so no bully pls. its edge glued top with pocket screwed everything else. It has about 3 coats of tung oil and sealed with polyurethane. 56"x32"

>>1927679
Gate hardware. If you can tolerate a little sway, you can get something that can support a couple hundred pounds

>>1940158
I make handles for similar things. Very little work with an 8in rasp and 12in round rasp (A, B). Most of my time is spent with an 8in fine half round file (C) doing controlled removal with minimal risk. The less file marks means less sanding. I'm still not done with this one (D).

>>1940804
should I just get a second cut file instead of a rasp then?

>>1940535
No, never use treated wood for a raised bed. Go with cedar, very rot resistant.

>>1940001
You're supposed to wipe off linseed oil after letting it sit for 10 minutes. Like get a rag and scrub as much residue off as you can or it will get sticky.

Was the varnish an oil or a latex?

>>1941013
I use boiled linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits to finish wood and I just wipe it on with a cloth and then let it dry

>>1940945
Good place to start, you can always get more files/rasps. $10 new and they last a century. fyi sanding down marks from very fine machine files still requires 100-150 grit sanding.

>>1941013
I wiped it off pretty well after 15 minutes or so until my rag didn't pick up any more oil from the surface but I can't say I really scrubbed.

I want to get into some basic woodworking. What are some basic tools I should look at getting?

I've watched and enjoyed some of this "Woodworking for Humans" series that focuses on using basic tools and using your hands:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLR_8ISkKkV7ky1wbbBUkE3-kwH6LRRWY1
Off of that series, I know that I'll at least want a hatchet, drill, saw, plane, and perhaps some chisels.

What tools does Anon find especially useful in the woodworking craft? I've already a nice Dremel and a small (methinks 7") miter saw, and I'm looking at getting a cordless drill. What else should I consider getting?

>>1941325
Also, where can I find a good source for material properties, such as modulus of elasticity, yield strength, etc., for different woods? I'm an ME student and would love to consider loading conditions when designing projects.

>>1941325
Japanese pull saw, for sure. Good ones can be had for $25. Irwin or better Try Square, random orbital sander (I have a cheap Ryobi I love), router (which can double as a jointer on smaller pieces), card scrapers, and all the fucking clamps.

>>1941339
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tonewood

>>1941325
this depends on what you want to create, the kind of wood you plan on using, the type of stock you choose to work with, your space situation and the time frame you want to finish a project

my list for turning planks into mediocre furniture, no sanding no router edition.
Feel free to take inspiration or call me a retard
a workbench
a rip saw
a tenon saw
bench plane & rabbet plane
handful of chisels and mallet(build your own)
Try square (possible with miter fence), sliding bevel and steel ruler, at least 300, 500 and maybe even 1000mm for basic measuring and checking flatness
layout knife
saw files, coarse grindstone, 2 honing stones and something to flatten them out(i use a chunk of SiC flattened on concrete)

....and for you own sanity a used Joiner/planer combination... This is the most expensive on the list by far, but if you plan on using planks as stock this will save you dozens of hours, and a decent joinerplane isn't cheap either

>>1941325
circular saw
drill
speed square

>>1941325
A flat, sturdy place to work and a means to secure your work safely. Likes Rex's low roman bench.

>>1921819
Where did you get the blade for the handle? Seems like a fun project but not sure where to start

>>1941529
That's a hand forged Poronvarsi puukko blade from Finland, one of the finest bladesmiths there is. I'd suggest not paying $200 USD for your first knife attempt. Get a $10-$20 Morakniv (Sweden, yuck) blank on Amazon and start there. Mora steel is high quality, I hate to admit, so you'll still have an excellent knife blade.

Watch 'Thetopicala' on YouTube to get some ideas on handle shaping, especially if you want to do a puukko style knife. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWFqxV0k1GA

There's an American who makes these knives and his own on twitter who seems helpful but my account was suspended and I can't remember his name.

>>1941571
They're more like 60 usd but yeah it's a bad idea for a first try. The Lauri blanks are nice though and a decent steel for around 12 dollars v many Mora blanks costing more than twice as much.

>>1941574
>60 usd
My bad, I was thinking of their Lapin leuku blades (10 inch Sami knife), I think. Still, puukkos are seriously underrated knives in America.

Making a shitty weight tree for my first wood project. I bought a cheap skilsaw to help me with this.

What's a cheap and easy way to create the branch that holds the weights. My initial design is to have an upright 4x4 with 1.5in dowels running straight through. I guess either drill a hole in the 4x4 and slip a single piece of dowel in, or glue two pieces together so they meet in the middle.

>>1941341
>card scraper
Huh, I've never seen the likes of those before. Thanks for the suggestions.
>wikipedia
I don't want to meme but I do wish they had more/better sources on that page. I'm pretty sure a good, authoritative source would have ranges for most wood mechanics. Regardless, they are numbers to consider.

>>1941377
>what you want to create
Small pieces to furniture. I have aspirations for a really nice desk and worktop someday. In the meantime, just useful things, like a coat rack.
>kind of wood
Hardwoods, I'd imagine, but I wouldn't be against using some box store pine 2x4s for some throwaway practice and stuff.
>space situation
Pretty shit without a shop, but I've a garage.
>time frame
Eh, irrelevant. It'll be pretty low-priority stuff for me for the time to come.
>metric
heh
Regardless, this looks like a nice list of useful tools. I'll look into them, thanks.

>>1941467
>circular saw
On its own? Hmm. Only controversial one here so far.

>>1941503
Hell yeah. Hoping to make it an early project.

>>1923722
kek

i let it sit for 4 weeks before sanding the sole
finally got it in working order today

when i set it for a extreme fine shaving, the shavings wrinkle and get stuck between iron and mouth, whats a proper way to fix this on a reform plane? Should i file the inside of the mouth piece on an angle, like you would do on a bailey?

Are corded electric screwdrivers worth a damn?

What should I use to seal a hand made cutting board.

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Really need this thread to die so I can post my questions and content in a fresh /wwg/

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