/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>tfw cooling problems on 0.8mm nozzle
>tried hero me 5 with 5020, 5015 and stock 4010
>all produce a high pitched whine
>all alternatives use similar radial fan setups
i have yet to find a good cooling setup for the e3p that runs quiet, looking for a (dual-)40mm axial fan setup. already started to model one myself in f360

>>1905567
Except in this case, the guy who invented them called them silencers, and everyone now calls them silencers, except for an insufferable minority who always feel the need to chime in with their stupid fucking ideas of what is "correct" terminology.

Do you sperg out when someone mentions Guinea pigs, because they're neither from Guinea nor related to pigs? Or when someone refers to a pencil lead? Or a wood golf club?

When my printer (Arty Genius) shows wifi in the menu, do I only need a ESP wifi module, solder it into the board, and have no need for a Raspi with Octoprint?

>>1905587
>we believe suppressor is the more proper term because it is more accurate to the function of the device, despite what the Creator named it
UGH FUCKING AUTISMOS SPERGING OUT OVER A NAME OHMYGOD DO YOU THROW A FIT OVER THESE OTHER INACCURATE NAMES THAT MEAN NOTHING TO ANYONE? SO SICK OF YOU FUCKING RETARDS WHO HAVE OPINIONS ABOUT STUFF WHAT A BUNCH OF FUCKING FAGGOTS SUCH AN INSUFFERABLE GROUP OF DUMBASSES UGHUGHUGHUGH

>>1905585
We need to come up with a ducting solution so we can have a large quiet fan attached remotely instead of having two or three tiny louder shift fans attached right to the carriage. It would also save a good amount of weight for faster and crisper printing.

>>1905632
>We need to come up with a ducting solution so we can have a large quiet fan attached remotely instead of having two or three tiny loud as shit fans attached right to the carriage. It would also save a good amount of weight for faster and crisper printing.

>>1905585
We need to come up with a ducting solution so we can have a large quiet fan attached remotely instead of having two or three tiny loud as shit fans attached right to the carriage. It would also save a good amount of weight for faster and crisper printing.

>>1905635
Thats what I was thinking too after seeing a guy 3d-printing his own modular vacuuming pipes for his woodworking shop. a big topmounted with 1-2 flexible ducts should be doable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8mzMDLqENA

>>1905635
People already use external part cooling.
Just use an air pump and connect it through a tube to a piece of copper pipe, bent in the right shape, that is mounted on the hotend.

>>1905668
what about cooling the brake? that one is arguably the loudest one the replacing it would seriously quiet the whole thing down

>>1905674
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:721307

>>1905680
It's almost like smart people have been thinking about this stuff for a long time. The only issue I could see is that if the jacket isn't 100% Air free the water is going to slash and could throw off accuracy especially at higher speeds

How would I go about hollowing out a model file to put electrical components / lights in it?

>first roll of pla is about to run out
>currently scrolling though new filaments
is there any advantages that pla has over petg besides being a bit cheaper? i feel like my petg-prints always come out a bit nicer

>>1905737
it's extremely easy to print and get good results, but if you're getting nice petg prints then nothing really

>>1905723
Unless you make the file yourself? get a drill

>>1905723
Import the model then use boolean operations to remove parts.
Could be as simple as using a cube and cylinders or, depending on the model, you could remove a scaled down copy from the model to hollow it

>>1905723
Load the model into mesh mixer then use the hollow tool under the edit menu.

>>1905627
Yes. You can believe what you want about what the name should be, but what the name actually IS, both originally and in colloquial usage, disagrees with you. At the very least, both are valid, so stop sperging out about it.

>>1905860
> so stop sperging out about it.

>nozzle clogged
>heating element wire broke (burned off, apparently)
>glass bed warped

F-f-f-fuck yeah! Good run for nearly 4 years on a Wanhao Duplicator though with no other maintenance other than occasionally re-levelling the bed. Up until last night, all I had to do was home everything and press the print button, simple as.

>>1905895
4 years is a great run, grats
there have been big advances in 4 years, do you repair or upgrade?

>>1905902
I plan on upgrading to a Creality CR6 since it fixes the 2 biggest annoyances I have with mine: broken filament responses and bed leveling.

I bought a tronxy x1 for 97$
how do I make it not be shit?

>>1905895
That's like a couple of bucks to fix and a new printer won't fix your warped bed because all beds ever made are warped, you need to find some DIY solutions to fix it.

>>1905905
>broken filament responses and bed leveling
That's like $40 to add a broken filament sensor and a touch probe assuming your mainboard has enough pins and memory to handle the more complicated firmware.

Two large prints detached and I didn't catch it for a couple of hours. This is going to be a disaster to recover.

>>1906097
This one didn't detach but everything melted into it. Two equal sized ones are now wrapped around everything. Turned the machine off after it called and walked away.

>>1906097
>>1906099
no silicone sock?

>>1906107
Look at the second picture..

>>1906097
>FDM in a nutshell

>>1906129
Wish I knew what happened. Maybe my z axis slipped and the nozzle went for a swim in plastic. That's my current theory at least. Makes no sense for something to detach and get that fucked up by a nozzle way above it.

Anyone have a recommendation on a good translucent or clear SLA resin that does not inhibit silicone curing? I know I can put a protective lacquer or something on the printed part to stop the inhibition but that can cause problems with small details or surface texture.

>>1905922

Spend multiple times that amount on upgrades

>Chiron
>Use bed warp sensor that came with it
>the fucking thing just levels edge most points and hovers at full height above the bed for others

Thanks anycubic, time to spend hours throwing the faulty points down

>>1906201
Throw the autoleveling sensor right into the fuckit buckit, manual leveling is the way to go.

>>1906099
It's obviously for tabletop, so this is now a pretty cool giant monster spider nest.

>>1906215
Yeah, but I want to make sure I got the values down right because the bed is -.05 in some places.

>>1905585
Axial fans don't have the necessary airflow. Those that do (just barely enough) also produce a whine (EBM Pabst)
Noctua fans don't cool for shit

Hey all, Reprappertech are launching their resins on Amazon and were giving out discount codes about a week ago. I got one, but it's only valid for the US amazon, and i'm in Europe so it's no good for me as it would cost more to ship than just buying any standard anycubic/elegoo resin. If you're in the US, with this discount code you can get a 500g bottle for about 12$ - whoever uses it first wins. K3LP-P7PP7D-JABGAM

>>1906278
Forgot the link - https://www.amazon.com/Reprapper-201-General-UV-Curing-Translucent/dp/B085GDTRTS

>>1906278
>>1906279
fuck off chang adbot
reported

I got memed into getting a dual-z kit for the Ender3 because I went direct drive and the carriage weighs a lot. My question is, is there any point of having v-rollers on the right side now that there's an endless screw there? Can I just replace them with spacers?

>>1906097
>stock creality hotend
Just throw the whole thing away, they're consumables

>>1906350
Why? They help keep that side of the gantry stable and linear. If you take them off the Gantry can potentially torque over to wherever it wants especially at higher Z Heights where there's more leverage on the screw

>>1906373
Because now that the second screw is in place, they somehow bind more
If I adjust them after homing, they bind at higher height
If I adjust them at the top, they bind when I home
I took the whole thing apart 2-3 times but can't seem to fix this issue. Maybe one of the extrusions is bent.

>>1906337

Fine, don't use it then

>>1906378
If an extrusion was bent it probably would have jammed before too. If it worked before I would start with what changed, make sure your Motors and screws are all mounted as parallel as possible. I would loosen them, bring the Gantry all the way up and then tighten them and then see if it's smooth going all the way down and all the way up the travel. If not loosen up the rollers and move it up and down and try to measure or see any side to side or forward and backward play in the gantry. If an extrusion really is bent it's easy enough to check with a straight edge. Also if you haven't already I would remove the stock z screw and tune the new steppers steps per millimeter separately because it may be slightly different from the original one which would obviously cause it to bind as the minor differences started to stack up as height goes up.

>>1906278
Not using it because an FDMfag, but this is based.

>I would remove the stock z screw and tune the new steppers steps per millimeter separately because it may be slightly different from the original one which would obviously cause it to bind as the minor differences started to stack up as height goes up
That would be nice but the motors are in parallel. I need to get a second wire.

>>1906392
meant for >>1906384

>>1906392
>>1906394
gotcha. in that case... idk just loosen both sides of rollers and run the Gantry all the way up and all the way down (with the motors not by hand). if it binds then you know for sure that's the issue, if not you know to look elsewhere. do it a couple times to give any tolerances a chance to stack up one way or another. also it doesn't seem super likely but if they're in parallel and one motor is missing/dropping steps for one reason or another, that's another possibility

>>1906129
Big prints, as an option, which take many hours. Yes. FDM in a nutshell.
Please stop the teasing over different tools for different use cases.

>>1906410
Figurinefags just get buttmad that they can only make toys. Best just to ignore them and their tantrums will go away.

I'm new to 3d printing and I'm looking at an Ender 3 v2. Is there anything I should buy alongside it to make the whe process easier? I know I need fillament but is there anything else recommended?

>>1906488
not really, it comes with all of the tools you'll need for assembly and maintenance. unless you mean upgrades/mods the only things I can think of is some zip ties and conduit/spiral wrap to wrangle the mess of cables and I guess a nozzle assortment of you want to experiment with different sizes. also a cheap fastener assortment if you plan on needing to screw shit together.
start with a cheap "name brand" plain jane pla to dial your machine in and learn the ropes so you're not trying to chase problems associated with shit quality plastic or filament whose diameter looks like a pearl necklace. scamazon shit like hatchbox and overture are fine, no need to spend 30-60 bucks on shit like prusamemt or polymaker for bog standard pla when you're starting out and 3/4 of the spool is going to end up in the trash anyway.

>>1906250
i just noticed after unboxing a noctua and 2 other 40mm axial fans, guess i'll come up with something else, probably an enclosure would be my best bet to make it quiet

> Be me, the guy asking about printing petg without Cooling
> set up a file with a couple of parts to print overnight without Cooling
> wake up in the morning
> holy shit it worked
> barely any stringing, Parts look great and even the 10 by 100 something millimeter upright screw came out fantastic, perfectly straight with nicely formed threads
> was that really the secret all along???
> go to bend the screw just the slightest amount
> snaps like a bone dry twig
> FUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
All right, I'm going to try a different brand of petg and if that gives me the same result then I'm done with this shit and sticking to pla like an absolute queer (at least until I end up buying an all metal hotend so I can roast that shit at like 260 or 270).

>>1906527
Yeah, that happens with PETG at lower temps. Much easier to get good looking prints but the layer adhesion will to be crap.

>>1906536
Is 240 really that low? The spool I have recommends 230 to 250

>>1906538
No. But you might get wrong readings.
Is your temperature probe configured and calibrated right?

>>1906544
The first thing I did when I upgraded to an SKR was a PID auto-tune on the nozzle and bed

>>1906556
PID auto-tune only helps reaching and holding the target temperature better.
It does not correct temperature readings.

Since you replaced the board, it's possible that it's set to the wrong thermistor type.

>>1906488
>anything else recommended?
a 12" straight edge and blue tape for fixing the pre warped bed.
acetone and lint free blue paper towels to clean the magnet mat so your prints will stick to it.
i also moved my spool holder from the top to the side.

>>1906563
it's all stock and I used the stock e3p config from marlin so I don't see any reason why everything shouldnt be in order but I can double check with a temp gun later I suppose.

I noticed the grub screw in my ender 3 is coming loose as it prints. I'm going to return it since that's a fire hazard.

Thinking of picking up an elegoo mars pro and a mercury. Any suggestions on better combos? I want to use water soluble resins.

>>1906506
intake bells work well for me
thing:3597687

Hey guys, I have a bit of an issue with print layer separation. Any idea what to do? Also, on the top there are small gaps around the holes any idea what causes that?

Pla, 220 degrees, running chep "good" settings

>>1906632

Recommendations on what to use to glue PLA to HDPE?

>>1905558
Be careful what you print out, bros.

https://www.justice.gov/usao-nv/pr/las-vegas-man-indicted-illegal-possessions-3-d-printed-glock-switches-and-firearms

>>1906661
>law enforcement became aware of Pham after an anonymous tipster reported that Pham had made threats that he was planning to commit a shooting. Pham also told the tipster that he had converted firearms into automatic weapons by using a 3-D printer.

just don't be a retarded retard and talk about shooting people without due cause.

>>1906666
Unfortunately that seems to be a bit much for spergs nowadays. I would go further and say avoid talking about anything /k/ in public, be it guns, cloth gear, military history, etc. since it gives people the impression you're going to go supreme, but the average /k/edditor here thinks discretion is cucked because it deprives the glowniggers of their stream of tips to justify next year's expanded budget.

>>1906632
>>1906635
Classic case of underextrusion.
Check filament diameter tolerance, nozzleclog, extrusion calibration, extruder skipping, worn extruder gear etc...

>>1906661
> layers of plastic each with a specific shape all Amalgamated in a certain order is illegal
What is this country coming to god dammit

>>1906695
Same with sub-micron smudges of ink arranged in a specific pattern to communicate a threat.

>>1906632
>>1906635
i notice the gaps arent present in the holes on the side.
are the gaps around the holes on the top part of your design? are they visible in the slicer?
also i concur with the anon who said under-extrusion

>>1906696
>threat.
or a value

>>1906695
A bent coat hanger or shoelace with a keyring is illegal as well, my dude

glass bed bros, do you use anything on the glass like tape or glue?

>>1906708
I use borite glass plate with blue painters tape over it.

>>1906708
I use purple glue stick
Used to use blue tape but found glue to be easier to maintain.

>>1906563
setting
>nozzle-100 bed-30
>200, 60
>240, 75
actual
>91 (-11.1%), 31
>181 (-10.5%), 61
>218 (-10.1%), 75

bed measured on magnet mat via ir gun
nozzle measured at heater block inside of silicone sock with fluke k type thermocuple (hard to get good contact, temp would vary on how and where i hold it but its too shiny for my ir gun to work)

given the consistent error for the nozzle temp, almost 0 error for bed temp, the fact that there are fans blowing over the heater block (the sock doesnt protect the top and right side of the block), the inaccuracy of using a little thermocouple bead to measure the temperature of a block of metal, and the fact that stopping the fans while measuring immediately makes the temperature shoot up, i can say with confidence that everything is accurate and working properly.

>>1906685
Yeah, I'm going to check the extruder for clogging and bump up the overlap to see if that changes anything.
>>1906698
>are the gaps around the holes on the top part of your design? are they visible in the slicer?
No, the entire thing is supposed to be solid. It'll work for what I have planned, but it's just kinda frustrating that it messed up near the end.

>>1906250
>Axial fans don't have the necessary airflow
Why are they used? Serious question, I see them everywhere, why bother if they don't work?

>>1906882
because theyre cheap

>FDMfags spending more time troubleshooting than printing
>meanwhile SLAchads going BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

>>1906926
>posts figurines
Amazing.

>>1906928
>posts filament monsters/spider nests
Fascinating

>>1906933
can you post something other than figures? They're getting really stale. like scenery, functional parts, etc. something other than figures?

>>1906934
That's not what sla is for. Sla is a toy maker, not a tool.

>>1906937
I know, I just want him to post something other than figurines for gods sake. it's all he posts and it's annoying.

>>1906938
Maybe you'd have printed stuff to post if you didn't spend all your time fixing a broken-out-of-the-box FDM printer

>>1906939
I post things all the time.

>>1906940
Filament fuck ups count as things?

>>1906943
why do you bait and troll? why a 3d printing thread of all places? why not bait /pol/ if you want a rise out of people? I don't understand.

>>1906944
how is posting 3d printed things in a 3d printing thread trolling

>>1906944
Look at the prints posted. It's some faggot anime fan who spends all day jerking off to cartoons. He has so little worth clinging to they he wants to look down on people because he bought a SLA printer with his neet bucks. He's no different to the sony or nintendo fanboys who hold so little ability they have to define themselves by a machine they purchased.

Point and laugh at him being so pathetic. No matter how bad someones printer is at least they're not as worthless as him.

>>1906937
>Sla is a toy maker, not a tool
Oh look it's this tired old not-argument again

>>1906977

Stop trying to stir shit up already. I use both types of printer and i don't feel the need to brag about it on a little message board. This is probably all you can do to express yourself in your life (laugh)

>>1906977
post your functional parts

>>1906954
>knockoff Urukhai posted
>anime

Have you been chomping your PLA?

>>1907000
*blocks ur path

>>1906926
impressive /toy/boy. How long did it take you to print those, 18 days?

>>1906472
My posting wasn't about contributing to that silly fight. SLA printers certainly have their place. Not only figurines, but also printing parts for small gears or other mechanisms.
>>1906708
My glass bed on Arty Genius holds PLA very well. Printing the first layer at high temp means I have to wait or cool it down to get it off, I won't use metal tools and don't need to. After cooling it just pops off. Turning down the temp after the first layer, means I can pop it off right after printing (depends on size). To avoid shrinking of the bed and messing up my print, I still keep it at 50C while printing the other layers. I normally use 70-75C for the first, with PLA and if the producer recommends 70-80C as max.
Played around with glue stick to safe energy, but it's to messy and for PLA I won't need it. We'll see for PETG.

>>1906926
whoever painted them fucking sucked and destroyed them

lol

>>1906926
Anyone use an MP Mini for miniatures?

>>1907000
Not been on /tg/'s 3dpg? He posted those models surrounding half naked anime women there.

how the fuck do I remove all the bed leveling data in my Chiron?

wanhao duplicator i3 vs Prusa??

I tried to slice a face in Prusa Slic3r and had problems with the higher layers, it ignores them and makes it flat. Is this something To ask in /3dcg/? I might need to make the object simpler? It did work with another face. The one which didn't work came directly from some CGI site. So I assume I have to put some work i to it.

>don’t measure the part I ordered vs the print size part requirement
>mfw they don’t fit

Ever do that, just assume something will fit
I do it too much
(No worries, nothing is going to waste it’s just me having to wait another day to get the part mailed out, I’ll still use the wrong size part for something else)

>>1907320
you could always just use Cura or a different slicer

How do you guys like my griffons? Monoprice budget pla out of an IIIP maker select V2 that's like 8 years old.

>>1907091
8 hours

>>1907499
figurine fags out

>>1906926
Do you even have friends you move your tiny plastic around with, or do you just fill a shelf with them?

>>1907496
No, my hardware doesn't support Cura and I won't just learn about another one. Do you know that Prusa Slic3r has problems with that, or what's your deal?

If I can wobble the bed of my fdm printer per hand a little, is that a problem? Also if I move the bed back and forth, should it be quiet or make a bit of a high noise? Are my roles/wheels to tight?

>>1907572
If it's wobbling, it's because the wheels are too loose. The noise you hear should just be the motors being spun. You probably also noticed that your display flashes when you move it back and forth when the power is off. This is ok to happen, but if you don't trust it you can always unplug your motor(s) when moving stuff around.
Overtightening your wheels will create flat spots and wear out your wheels/motors faster. A good rule of thumb I use on my ender 3 is to tighten the wheels until they can no longer be easily moved while holding the bed/gantry in place.

>>1907568
dude he's here more than anywhere, you think he has friends?

About to buy an SLA but I'm a retard, can I just leave models out in the sun to cure them?

>layers splitting while printing pla, figure it's wet
>put it in food dehydrator at 45 for 24h
>layers not splitting but still weak
>another 24h
>same splitting, super weak layer bonding
Is it just dead? It's a few years old, but only opened 6-8 months ago.

Is there any way to improve an ender 3s memory without replacing the board? My sd card chugs if I put a few files on it. I'm considering octoprint.

>>1907617
Recompile marlin and reduce some of the bloat by disabling features.

>>1907557
>per layer

>>1907620
It doesn't seem to have very many features to begin with.

>>1907625
Get rid of arc support.

Hello Frens
I have bought an Anycubic Photon and have been earning some bucks selling minis. But I want to step up my game and build some dioramas to sell. What are some good tutorials or repository to learn this stuff?

>>1907569
I use 4 different slicers depending on the case. If one doesn't work the way I want, I use the one that does.

>>1907569
On the other hand, if you are just looking for an academic discussion of the algorithms and why it is processing the way that it is, we could go into that. Probably won't help you though.

>>1907591
Who needs friends when you have a computer and a 3D printer???
I certainly don't.

>>1907631
Be this anons friend.
>>1907499

>>1907499
are these painted? that finish is nice

>still on my quest for a silent cooling solution
>the 40mm silent axial fans do jack shit
>remember that i still have a nvidia quadro gpu in the basement
>pull off the fan, set it to around 6V
>better results than all the solutions i found on thingiverse
with that out of the way i can design a proper holder for the fan. i print at 20mm/s on a 0.8mm nozzle so i dont have to worry about weight.
>check print quality
>filament comes out bubbly
>check weather
>around 75% humidity for the last 2 or so weeks
time to heat up the stove

>>1907187
bump?

>>1907703
I don't think bowden weight reductions are very effective when you slap a fan that big on there.

Is there any 3d modeling software that works like sketchup? I'm still using 2017 sketchup can cause they haven't made a usable free version since.

I repaired my maker select today after 4 years of no maintenance made everything go to hell. I replaced the bed, the nozzle, and the heating element, but now I'm getting strange temperature issues. I had to wrap the heating element in aluminum foil so that it would fit into the heatblock and actually transfer heat. When I set the temperature to 200, which would consistently melt PLA before, it doesn't get hot enough. I've done a PID tune, which appears to fix the problem, but the problem comes back after a power cycle.
My Y-axis also has excessive vibration now when I move it long distances, and the bed is level, but the 2 screws on the left are all the way in while the ones on the right are pretty far out, so it's like the bed is slanted to compensate for the printer's warpage.

>>1907730
Also, any suggestions on how to relevel the Z-axis? I think it might be slanted due to the way the bed had to be leveled and because the machine tried to travel beyond its upper limit once for some reason, and I heard a lot of grinding.

>>1907730
>I had to wrap the heating element in aluminum foil so that it would fit into the heatblock and actually transfer heat.

It'd be better to get a proper 6.35mm heater

>I've done a PID tune, which appears to fix the problem, but the problem comes back after a power cycle.

Sounds like you're not saving after setting the PID parameters. I think it's m500 but it'll depend on your firmware somewhat.

As for Z leveling, I'd put the screws on your bed to all about the same level and level z to that. Either measure the distance between the sides of the bed and the x rods or use the nozzle and a piece of paper.

>>1907702
Yes. I'm a /tg/ fag. Printed with model primer, heavy spray of rust-oleum hammered pewter metallic to hide lines, then drybrushed with neutral gray and washed the shadows with carbon black ink mixed with flow aid and some medium.
>>1907631
There are tons of YouTube videos on making terrain for wargames. Goober town hobbies is good

>>1907773
The aluminum foil trick works for now, but while I'm at it I might as well get a new heat block since the old one is pretty fucked up. Does anyone even make a Mk10 heat block that accepts standard 6mm heater cartridges?

>>1907577
I can only move one wheel while holding the bed, the sound is coming from the bed when I'm moving it. I'm going to loosen the other ones a bit. Hopefully when they're are at the same level I won't have a wibbley wobbley printybed anymore.

>>1907668
Okay, good to know. Thanks.
>>1907670
Thanks, no. I'll ask in /3dcg/ how to alter models to make them printable. Another face works well, it just doesn't know how to handle that one correctly. Probably some reduction in complexity. There's probably a workflow for people doing this more often.

https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-ender-5-3d-printer
Ender 5 with coupon SUP50 for 228,80€.
The price seems good, this one or the pro?

>>1907703
Cr10s Pro V2 master race checking in

It's not the fan on the extruder that's noisy, it's the 3 other fans inside the bottom chasis. Check out this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lde-SSY4vtw

>>1907725
Better ask that in /3dcg/. There's a threads for questions and a thread for SketchUp.

>>1907577
> A good rule of thumb I use on my ender 3 is to tighten the wheels until they can no longer be easily moved while holding the bed/gantry in place.
Can somebody confirm this? Before I loose all those screws. Currently I can only move one wheel while holding the bed in place.

>>1907719
I don't ever hear about Chiron. Don't think many people here have experience with it

Momentarily have fallen in love with ABS due to how fast it is to dry in the oven because you can crank that shit up to 100C

>>1908006
I hope that's not the same oven you prepare food in.

>>1908019
>he doesn't eat the residue, eat broken supports, and inhale as much fumes as possible so when he shits he is the ultimate 3d printer

>>1907151
I use an MP delta. It's way better for terrain, but I'd rather have a FDM printed monster than nothing. I use it mostly for support, monsters, dino mounts, environmental shit (crates / doors / barrels / tents) as opposed to PC miniatures. Painting FDM sucks bags of dicks.

What is your favorite print you’ve printed? Anything from busts to practical pints to mini/figures
I printed this Joker bust in copper pla and it’s my favorite thing I’ve printed

>>1908021
Dude it's even under its glass transition temp, there's no way it's gonna contaminate that oven.

>>1908044
I printed some guns. I'd post pics but buttmad eurojannies ban me whenever I do, even though I follow /diy/ rules on weapons posting.

>>1908063
>Dude it's even under its glass transition temp, there's no way it's gonna contaminate that oven.
I'd clean it out a little after use, just to be sure, in case something gases out. It should have a coating which makes it easy to clean, just use a wet cloth and you should be good, even if there was something.

>>1908063
Your oven is not going to have completely uniform temperature everywhere and be at the set temperature at all times.
It's going to be hotter near the heating elements and they'll cycle between being turned off and being far hotter than the target temperature.

Being set 5° below the glass transition temperature doesn't mean shit. That's a ridiculously low margin. Your oven is not a precise machine.

>>1907703
If you are at all concerned about weight you could just mount the fan somewhere other than the hot end and then use a duct hose to connect the blower (mounted to the printer frame) to a shroud on the hot-end.

>>1906655
>Recommendations on what to use to glue PLA to HDPE?
Devcom plastiweld epoxy or Plexus MA310

>>1907901
I think this was some BS or trolling. When I can move the rolls, the bed is wobbley.

Why does everything I put into cura look like this? Stuff I download online or custom made models like pic related are all the same. It comes out fine 90% of the time but this triggers my OCD like crazy.

What's the difference between normal resins like Elegoo Grey and casting and dental resins?

>>1908293
Dental resins (should) go through a certification process to make sure they're biocompatible. Casting resins usually are intended to burn out for a cast or hold high detail. Normal resins don't usually have any unique properties.

>>1908297
So basically dental resins are just food safe? Why isn't that the standard? Is it way more expensive or something? Also what do you mean by burn out? Like you actually burn them out with fire/chemical process leaving just the cast?

>>1908302
look up "lost wax casting"

>>1908302
>why isn't that the standard
For the same reason that tools you get from amazon are more likely to be pot metal than surgical steel, it all comes down to cost.

>what do you mean by burn out
see >>1908305 , but pretty much, yes, you encase the part in plaster/sand/what-have-you and burn out, melt, or otherwise dissolve it, and replace the now-void with whatever material you wanted it to be.

>>1907612

What do you do when you run out of ideas for stuff to print?

>>1908387
Not print. I don't need to have my printer running all the time generating waste that'll just collect dust or be thrown away.

Iirc, people here suggest the Elegoo mars over the AC Photon because of bed levelling ease, bue where does the Creality machine sit in that? Worse than all three?

>>1908450
>because of bed levelling ease
Wat? I've leveled my bed exactly once in the almost two years I've had my Photon, what are people doing to theirs to warrant re-leveling?

>>1908454
What I got told was it's easier to level the bed when you have to, I don't have a resin printer so idk how hard it is to begin with.

Does anyone here these "robert planters" and can upload it, please? My mom is crazy about those and now that I have a 3d printer she asked me to print her one. And I dont feel like buying a 3d model (disgusting, I know).

>>1908309
>For the same reason that tools you get from amazon are more likely to be pot metal than surgical steel,
Because, the large international corporation that relies on socialist, crony-corporate welfare decided to temporarily juice their profits by importing from chink manufacturers that cut every corner possible?

>>1908469
Download blender and scuplt them yourself. For such simple models like those it won't be hard.

>>1907730
>>1907773
>>1907731
I confirmed the Z-axis is level , but now nothing is sticking to the glass bed. I leveled the bed using the paper method and it's still too far with default cura settings. I have to set the start layer height to 0.2, less than their 0.3 default, otherwise it's way too high in the air. This was the one test print I was able to get to stick (one square per corner and one in the center). I also noticed when levelling that there were places on the bed that would suddenly dip like hills, then come back to the expected height. Is this is a sign that my bed is hopelessly warped and I should replace it?

>>1907817
Pro, always go for the Pro with Creality

You have 10 seconds to explain why you aren’t 3D printing your own android wife.

>can get almost 0 stringing with s3d
>next to no stringing in cura
>slic3r/prusaslicer gives me stringing out the asshole
Fucking hell. S3D has pissed me off enough to abandon it, and cura has some strange problems I can't be fucked fixing. Got my head around PS and the modularity of it seemed really good, but I can not figure out this stringing issue with it. wipe while retract, retract before wipe, and retract on layer change are on but almost every layer in a tower test has a connected string between them.

>>1908561
3dp said not to print sex toys
also, theres no good software to run

>>1907612
Try a higher temperature. If that doesn't work, it's a $20 roll of filament. You're not out much.

>>1908231
Those are start/stop points for each layer. The gap itself has a name I don't remember, but it's Cura expecting a hint of filament to ooze out the hotend like it always does. The points are staggered to prevent a visible line in the print.
If the print itself goes fine it could also be nothing more than shitty gcode rendering. What does the printed model look like in comparison?

>>1908499
Did you paper level the bed while it was heated or at room temperature. The second option gives you bad results.

Anyone else scooping up some bargians in the anycubic aliexpress sale?
This month I got:
>6 1m reels of PLA
>4 1L bottles of Resin
>Anycubic Photon
>Anycubic Wash n Cure
For £400. Though I'm going to need to wait for the resin and pla a little while since thats shipping from Spain and not the UK.
I'm going to need to set up a printing workstation for these and my Mega S to chill out on.
I wanted to get a Chiron but those things are huge. I have my Mega S just chill out on the kitchen counter corner currently.

Idk if this is a dumb question.


But when printing overhangs on FFF/FDM - why not just eliminate gravity by turning the printer to like a 75 degree angle?

>>1908733
>photon and photon S OOS in aus
>china shipping costs more than the printer
ffffffffuuuuuu
>>1908742
I know there's something fundamentally wrong with this but I'm too tired to see what it is.
Try it and report back to us.

>>1908744
I honestly feel so damn lucky Anycubic can ship within the UK more often than not on the machines themselves.

>>1908750
>order to UK
>recieve box
>can't open it because knoife loicense expired

lmao

>>1908751
>not having an opening pen

>>1908754
got a pen loicense?

>>1908742
Nothing wrong with it, but gravity actually isn't the only issue with overhangs

>>1908755
You'll never catch me alive coppa!
>*dives through unopened window and runs up a long hill*

>>1908758
>Nothing wrong with it, but gravity actually isn't the only issue with overhangs
True, but I feel like there is a way to make gravity work FOR you instead of against you.

Bridging between two columns....
What if you extruded vertically - zero sag.

>>1908762
what about drooping/ stretching due to gravity pulling it down?

>>1908586
>3dp said not to print sex toys
That statement was sarcastic

>>1908387
I'm quite new. I got my printer because I need it. I guess, at some point doing the design work will take more time than printing. Never had the intention to print stuff just for the fun of printing something...

>>1908561
Because it's not possible right now, and much more complicated than you think. However I'm working exactly on that every day.
>>1908586
>3dp said not to print sex toys
They aren't exactly sex toys, but companions with special features.
>also, theres no good software to run
Correct, but having something will be a motivation to create better software.

>>1908766
so.... in the direction you're printing anyway?
Not an issue

>>1908561
Nothing beats the feeling of having a real person next to you.

Just ordered a nozzle X for my mk3s. I doubt I'll use it to its full capabilities much, but it will be nice to not really give a shit in case I want to do something with f.e woodfill. I just hope I won't tear the hotend cables when installing it, since it apparently is really easy to fuck up on the prusa.

What kind of iron is best for post processing? slight remelting/better adhesion/imperfection smoothing etc

>>1908818
A wood engraving kit maybe?

>>1908821
That looks nice! Have you used it? What is the temperature range and precision?

>>1908830
Its just a cheap thing from aliexpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000544710844.html
Never used one, you could probably heat something up with a lighter, if its PLA it takes very little temperature to make it go soft.

>>1908561
Seems like a lot of work for my 200x200x200 build surface fdm printer

>>1908800

>>1908866

>>1908650
I leveled while the bed was heated.

>>1908800
>>>1908561
>Nothing beats the feeling of having a real person next to you.
It's called pheromones. I plan to let my Robowaifu emit some of them. They're for sale. Well, kind of...

>>1908851
>>>1908561
>Seems like a lot of work for my 200x200x200 build surface fdm printer
You won't be able to print them in one part anyways. Would be more like Animatronics.

>>1908818
>What kind of iron is best for post processing? slight remelting/better adhesion/imperfection smoothing etc
Resin: For SLA or others, like for fiberglass: https://youtu.be/nOZaTB34RrI

>>1908871

>>1908076
? I posted ar15 magazine like 4 threads ago, a mag loader, and a pistol mag loader.

No bans or deleted posts.

My printer's old mosfet was staying on whenever the printer had power, figured it was bad. Replaced it with a new mosfet, but now when I power on the printer, the power supply makes a humming noise but doesn't power on. If i disconnect the mosfet, the printer powers up fine. I've checked the mosfet wiring and it all seems fine, any ideas on what the issue could be?

>>1908840
>Its just a cheap thing from aliexpress
I am impressed. It is TPU.

Not gonna lie, I really want a resin 3D printer and that ELEGOO Mars Pro looks awfully tempting but I am concerned about the chemicals in resin printing

>>1908992
>I am concerned about the chemicals in resin printing
We all are. They turned the frogs gay.

>nah m8 the part is small you can just print it directly to the bed bruv
and this is why I always just do a raft with petg. last time I listen to my inner englishman.

>>1909044
t. retard

mate use the chisel trick to get prints off you fucking cunt strewth

>>1908992
I've read ambiguous things about that problem. Maybe it isn't such a problem, especially if you don't have it in your living or sleeping room.

>>1909044
why didn't you use painters tape breh?

>>1909044
>he doesn't heat his bed back up to make part removal easier

what's the verdict on printing TPU straight on PEI sheets? No glue or anything

>>1909060
I am not a painter

>>1909071
I made a hole in my pei sheet with tpu.
That was old style pei sheet with m3 adhesive on the back, not the new powder coated sheet.

>>1909044
is this the magnetic mat? I didn't know you're not supposed to print straight to it.
>print petg on coated glassbed that came with printer
>print pops off easily when it cools down
>>1909051
>chisel trick
can you explain?

>>1909071
Fine.
I've done a few watch straps and a benchy.

Hotter prints better but tune your retraction unless you want print-pubes.

>plastic piece that holds the venetian blind up breaks
>not the first time, Dad used to just get a piece of wire, wrap it around, and make a hook
>asks me if I can make on on my 3d printer
>pull up f360, copy the design, print it out
>Dad looks ecstatic, went and hung it back up right away.
Using it to fix everyday stuff is really satisfying, he got me to print some more to replace the wire ones and some spares for when they break in the future.

>>1909207
Yeah I do shit like this all the time.
Really Really satisfying. feels gud man
pic related.
Roller blind bracket

>>1909210
Neat! I'm still relatively new to f360 and cad in general. To create the holes and such in that vertical piece do you just extrude up from the base and create a new sketch on the object face?

Also pic related, my hook think in prusa slicer. I'm usually on linux, and don't have a better 3d viewer.

>>1909212
Extrude up, new sketch on the vertical face, draw on the pattern - extrude through and it should 'cut' through any visible bodies that intersect.

You can also choose other options, join/intersect etc.

>>1909051
that'll accomplish the same thing with more steps you worthless nigger

>>1909060
meh rafts work fine and have the added bonus of preventing Warp

>>1909066
impatient plus the rest of it came off without much of a fight

>>1909144
On paper it's for pla only but it works just fine with anything else provided you do it right, IE if you need to coat it with tape or whatever. Pet is just a special case because that first layer being shoved into the bed makes it stick like an absolute motherfuker. It will even rip off chunks of glass from your glass bed if you are not careful. That's why I just put it on a raft because it doesn't fuse as hard and it's much easier to remove when it only has 20% contact with the mat instead of the entire bottom of the part.
>chisel trick
He means where you take the spatula then try to rape it under the part, gouging and scraping the mat in the process anyway, and still ending up with the same result of a chunk being pulled off. except it took longer and you had to exert more effort.

>>1909059
I don’t have room except in my sleeping/living room

>>1909226
Can I add a elastic printbed without glueing a magnet over my nice patterned/coated glass bed. With some clamps? How much does this depend on the printer?

>>1909144
>>1909226
skip to 9 minutes into this video, this fat fuck takes 9 MINUTES to explain the dangers of a chisel (never mind he's fat as fuck)

the idea is you flip the chisel upside down, slide it in at a 45 degree angle, and then lift/lever up the side of the print and the whole thing POPS off like a mad cunt

>>1909263
t. retard
https://youtu.be/1WYOqf08mzQ?t=542

>>1908733
Damn bois, some of this stuff is arriving tomorrow. Anycubic are fast, (though I suspect they have a lot of gear in the UK already).

>>1909248
Elastic? I assume you mean flexible, you can I guess I don't see why it wouldn't work so long as you make sure to get good even contact for the whole sheet. The base magnet isn't glued on, just with some peel off adhesive so you can definitely peel it off whenever you want.

>>1909263
I really don't think any technique was going to help considering it was stuck on hard enough to peel the mat. Like I said earlier, it would be the same result with more effort and time spent.

>>1909226
>>1909263
thank you anons
i hat the same problem with pla being basically welded to bed, my solution was to lower the bed temp from 60C to 55C, I can take it off with 2 fingers now

>>1909244
You can build a filter. Carbonfilter in a box where you draw the fumes into, or something I recall from one video. I don't know enough about it, I would gather infos from different source before doing anything.
>>1909281
Yeah, I meant flexible. Hope to find a way for this to work. My printbed (Arty Genius) is fine for small prints, its just that bigger prints take a bit to much time and effort and a PEI only costs 30€. I want to be able to put the PEI in the freezer if necessary and still print on my old bed, without some magnet layer in the way.

Any one else found esun pla+ warps off the build plate? It's printing great at 200 but starts to lift over the print.

>>1909322
That usually happens because the Z offset is too low, I know mine was because that's the offset i use for pla but it's too close for pet (so hence it ripping apart my mat). lowering the bed temp only Band-Aids the problem.

>>1909341
Yeah I mean like I said as long as you can get to be flat and even there's no reason I can see a mat not working on a glass bed. It'll probably stick pretty well on its own once it heats up by vacuum sealing but I would still clip it. not sure why you would want to freeze it though.

>>1908759
Do you have eh loicense to be in this hill sir?

>>1909207
yee man feels nice
been doing the same for my relatives
it's actually starting to become a bit of a chore.
been making replacement parts for all kinds of appliances, stovetop exhaust hoods, sewing machines, aquarium accessories, small bits for my nephews toys, you name it

just all kinds of small bits and bobs that would slowly lead to throwing the things away

and its always a joy to see my relatives glued to the side of my printer case watching the machine do it's magic

>>1909210
>Really Really satisfying. feels gud man
That's a strange looking dildo. I am happy for you.

>>1909341
>You can build a filter
Is that really necessary? Our fren might be an obese diabetic smoker. A filter doesn't make sense for all people.

>>1909415
>>1908586
>>1908781
3DP sex toy guide? How would one go around doing it safely? Prinding it as a negative for a mold, then postproc to smooth it and fill it with silicone? Or is it enough to cover it in resin? Asking for a friend.

She wants to peg my ass.

>>1909422
1st option is the absolute safest and the positive is reusable so you can keep making negatives out of it, 2nd probably would work but if you crush it with your tight little boipusci (I think typing that took 3 years off my life) then you'll still likely be picking bits and shards of plastic bits out of your asshole. Post processing isn't 100% necessary if you want to leave ribbed for her (or apparently his) pleasure.

>>1909422
lurk in old threads

So, I bought my first 3D printer and I'm about to send it back before it causes me to tear my fucking hair out. The calibration system makes no sense at all, the instructions make no sense at all, and apparently the machine is designed such that it will completely fuck itself if it isn't calibrated in that mystical way that actually gets it to function properly. Is there a home market 3d printer that doesn't require a year of troubleshooting right out of the box? I genuinely don't have the time or energy for that. Budget is about $800. Thanks.

>>1909574
I have a FLSUN Q5 that has automatic bed leveling and takes about 30-60 min to set up and print out of the box, the entire printer assembly uses a single screw, everything else is pre assembled, costed 240 USD and I’ve have very few issues with it.

>>1909574
what printer?
for 800 if you want it to just werk just get a prusia, 750 unassembled or 1000 assembled. there's other options but prusia is the apple of 3d printers, overpriced but geared toward those with more money than skill/patience/sense.

>>1909583
https://youtu.be/lUK5k4RrH-Q
https://youtu.be/HOGVKZ2wVuY
https://youtu.be/62J5L2bMCOE
https://youtu.be/73GX-h4S9B4

>>1909585
>d*lta printers

>>1909584
>what printer?
Labist. I got suckered in by the 70 discount before I knew they were a mega chinese brand and before I knew about these threads. They even have a set up video on youtube but even that's completely worthless. I'm a full time college student and also have a full time job, so I don't have the time to deal with this bullshit. I just figured a 3d printer could prove to be a useful tool for my personal projects. I just didn't realize what a pain in the ass it would be to even get the thing to function. I'll look into your recommendation and lurk these threads more as well.

>>1909590
Oh fuck off

>>1909594
Never even heard of that brand. Yeah in your case it seems like prusha is the way to go for you, unbox it plug it in hit print and walk away. plus all of the community and Company support that comes with.

>>1909343
You should be able to go higher with the temps. PLA doesn't disintegrate with slighly higher temps like ptfe tubes or ABS. You can go beyond what the producer says, though Plus means most likely they mix extra stuff into it. Why not increase the bed temperature? Or using some glue stick?
>>1909574
Can't you use tutorials of other printers? They are mostly clones of other ones. If possible also use this: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html to calibrate it. With small amount of time it will be challenging either way. There are vids for general introduction on YouTube, by e.g. Sanladerer or TeachingTech.
>>1909264
Great vid, great guy.

>>1909594
You're not suitable for 3d printing. It's a hobbyist technology and you're a whiny little bitch who couldn't get even the basics together. Maybe try again when the technology becomes retard proof and more suitable for someone like... you.

>>1906695
>mfw certain combinations of carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, oxygen, and phosphorus atoms are illegal

>>1909625
whatever moron

>>1909631
I'm not the one too stupid to put together a 3d printer. Did your degree in gender studies and working at walmart not give you the skills needed for it?

Fuck off faggot.

>>1909626
As it has always been, friend, as long as their has been governments, tribes, families.

>>1909631
You came to a hobby thread complaining about the hobby. And complaining in general. Not really the way to get people to help you. Why would anyone want to help you with that 'tude?

>>1906704
I don't get this one. What is that and what does a shoelace with a keyring do?

>>1909772
Some kind of clip that you put into the receiver of a gun to make it go bangity faster. The ATF is retarded and very particular as to what it classifies as "machine guns". Case in point, a shoelace.

>>1909775
>>1909772
By Allah if the jannies ban me for this I won't care because I'm on cellular data.

>>1909782
Isnt this possible on virtually any reciprocating bolt?

>>1909775
Coathanger is a diy version of a swift link, a piece that drops into an AR lower to make it full auto only. It depresses the disconnect when the bolt carrier travels forward, thereby releasing the hammer and firing another round, over and over until the trigger is released or the mag is empty.

The shoelace is as per the ATF letter anon posted, pic related. On a rifle with a reciprocating charging handle, the end of the shoelace is tied to the handle, then looped around the trigger. When the keyring is pulled, the rifle fires, the charging handle reciprocates, and as it goes forward again, it creates tension on the shoelace which then pulls the trigger again. It's tricky to make it work in practice, since you need a fairly strong return spring and have a low friction lace, otherwise it binds up and doesn't work. Or so I'm told...

Both the coathanger and the shoelace require an application to the ATF, consigned by your local chief law enforcement officer, get fingerprinted, pay $200, wait a year, and then you can use your registered machine gun. The preeminent legal authorities of the land are confident this was the intent of the Founders when writing the 2nd Amendment.

>>1909782
The shoelace trick is literally /diy/ tho, they'd have to be massive fags.

>>1907568
Sure do

>>1909782
>>1909787
>knows that doing this is a violation of US law
>posts it anyway
>says he doesnt care that posting proof of violating US law will get him banned
>knowingly breaks the law

Why can't white folk just follow the rules lol

>>1909788
>they'd have to be massive fags
And they were, see >>1909775

>>1907591
>here more than anymore

oh the projection. I rarely post here because I'm not the one who has to troubleshoot an FDM printer 24/7 like the rest of you cucks

I'm too busy having being a working man, maintaining a household, having successful prints, painting, and DMing

>>1909798
That's a common pic off google, you tard. Also, you cannot infer from the picture whether that shoelace is illegal or not, since its legality depends entirely on whether it was registered before assembly.

>>1908762
you could revolutionize printing with this idea. but you won't.

>>1909799
No, I mean the jannies. Everyone knows the ATF are fags, that's what the F stands for.

Pronterface is insisting that this is my home position, and tbe screen says this is x150 y150, which SHOULD be the center. Clearly, the nozzel is not in the center.

When I adjust manually, it then says that pic related is x200 y170, which sounds about right.

How tf do I fix this?

>>1908818
I use my 3D pen for repairs. >>1908821 would work for some things.

smoothing remains difficult because details don't' like anything that would smooth a print.

>>1909803
>white folk with illegal guns
who woulda thunk

>>1909806
get a resin printer

>>1909212
>>1909216
I've found that when extruding making a new body is helpful because you can then mirror and manipulate copies of the "hole" and when you're all set "combine" with "cut". otherwise when you create as a cut you only get the one.

>>1909809

I did. Its printing right now. I'm also going to get a second one.

>>1909811
what did you get? I'm going to need to decide between resin and a large format PLA as my 2nd printer soon.

>>1909808
>whining about illegal guns in a 3d printing thread
Not falling for it, Chaim.

>>1909812

Creality LD-002R

Don't get that one. Literally every professional review on the product was made by liars are people who had nothing to compare the prints to. The detail is blurry as fuck and undefined.

>>1909800
This anon is correct. All of 4chan has been pozzed and is virtually unusable. It is probably owned by reddit now.

>>1909826
I thought he was talking about this board becoming a customer service forum for dumb ghetto rats.
My mistake. He is just a lonely kid trying to troll for pointless arguments about the superiority of SLA printers.

>>1909806
Change the bed W,L,H and home pos under settings. Get the numbers from your slicer

>>1909827
>customer service forum for dumb ghetto rats
/diy/ is tech support. Don't like it then go back to >>>/g/.
Read the sticky
>ask questions regarding /diy/ topics

If you just want to see successes, reddit has a good sub for showing off stuff. How dull

>>1909835
I'm so sick and fucking tired of their "first layer porn" and benchy posts. we get it, you did something right for once in your life, now fuck off.

>>1909836
Too bad you can't do something right at all in your life

>>1909835
I bought a 3d printer! Please upvote me!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What's the best 3d modeling software to learn for designing your own fantasy objects? Blender is designed by autists for autists.

I made a laptop that is solder free. It uses a Pi 4 with 8GB of ram. I'm thinking of upgrading the display so I'm not limited to emulation.

>>1909840
>designing your own fantasy objects
Sounds autistic to me, off to Blender you go
Next best choice is Fusion 360 if you want to do mechanical/precise things

>>1909848
>making flimsy mechanical chinkware from sugar plastic
>not autistic

>>1909840
you think Blender is bad? Zbrush is great and has even more retarded UI

>center is perfect but corners are a tad rough
Is this okay or am I going to go insane trying to level it out perfectly?

>>1909144
Unrelated but I made a pair of oshawott

Why is my infill printing so slow? I've checked and the speed is at 80, disabled auto cooling/slowdown, and the volumetric speed is set at 0. Using an 0.8mm nozzle.

>>1909861
Minimum layer time?

>>1909861
I thought that was linked with the auto cooling? It's greyed out so I can't change it, which also means it's not being applied

>>1909866
>>1909864
wrong quote, whoops

>start printing some door-openers for coworkers
>go to bed
>wake up to a clicking sound in the middle of the night
>spool is kinda tangled, cat sits in front of the printer
>detangle filament, print continues
>today I notice they all are missing half a layer and split pretty much in half
so I brought this presentation material to work. bought one of those IKEA boxes and a bag of silicagel yesterday, still have to set it up later this week

>>1909798
retard

>>1909868
>door-openers
gay

>>1909798
where do you think you are

>>1909594
>Dumbass didn't even take two minutes to research and then get a Anycubic Mega S which literally takes like two hours to setup and calibrate and then you can move onto learning how to print and make stuff to print.
Man I have two part-time jobs, and a house to keep clean and maintain and I figured it out. I even figured out to help my bro use his Photon Zero too. Its not even hard.

>>1909989
And don't act like being a student makes you special. I used to spend 6 hours a day commuting back and forth to uni and doing an entire day. 6am to 9pm three days a week. I still ended up with a 2:1 business degree, and you know what that uni degree is worth? Naff all. (Didn't even spell my name right)
It all comes down to lucking out applying for a good job, the degree only goes so far to get your foot in the door.

Just got an Ender 3 pro, printing PLA on default settings so far without any issues, except for random unaesthetic blobs, similar to pic related. What's the normal solution to this?

>designed and printed my first cooling "solution"
>it fits nicely
everything went better than expected, next step is installing a volcano hotend and printing with a 1.2mm nozzle

>>1910099
That much constriction probably doesn't result in a lot of cooling performance...

>>1910099
jeez laweez! what is THAT?!

>>1910088
That print has more issues than blobbing. It maybe over extruding though.

>>1910099
If my printer was printing that quality I wouldn't be printing anything serious. Calibration tests and tuning.

You also lost half your print bed with something that tall and wide.

>>1910099
why does the housing look like it's made of denim lol

>>1909788
Lmao, fuck j*nnies. They're butthurt eurofags. I'm sorry for you euros that may be alright who's image is tainted by jans.

>>1910109
i'll have to do some iterations, my plan is to run the fan on 5-6V so its quiet, have some 5015 fans on the way for other setups
>>1910110
a fan i salvaged from a nvidia gpu
>>1910115
>>1910117
if you're speaking about the atrocious fanhousing: i printed that with a 0.8mm nozzle, next to no cooling and petg that sat in 75%+ humidity for about 2 weeks, printing it made sparkling sounds comparable to a freshly poured glass of soda, the sides are glued shut with a thick layer of hotglue

>>1910115
>lost half your print bed
its mounted to the front so I don't lose anything

>>1910115
Not my print, just an example of the blobbing. Mine isn't quite as bad, but there's not much of a consistent pattern.

>tfw not extruding an entire layer and the entire print separates at that spot
So, I think it's a problem with how the filament is wound on the roll. how would you guys fix this?

>>1910128
I'd say you lost your dignity but you clearly don't have any..

>Hot glue on a machine that gets hot
Genius..


>>1910208
Try printing a retraction test. If you go to teaching techs one he has a link to a much much better one. It tests all speeds and retraction distances at once. It'll give you a perfect retraction set up.

If that doesn't help look at checking your esteps. It's not a big problem to fix and there's lots of support.

>>1908762
i think the real solution to this will be actuated printing beds that are able to tilt so that the overhang angle gets compensated and the gravity pull stays pointing downward during overhang printing

you would only need a more elongated pointy nozzle (maybe heated nozzle with a heating coil embedded?)
this way it could print all the parts that are vertically oriented as usualy but when the roof/overhang gets printed it tilts itself before printing the usual layer by layer way so that the connecting parts can also be printed in the same angle

sort of what you can see in multidirectional cnc machines

>>1907703
>still on my quest for a silent cooling solution
build a water cooling
check out MirageC on youtube

>>1909810
You can mirror features/faces too though.

>>1910217
Sounds like hell to level.

I honestly think tilting the entire fucking thing would be easier.

I can see small holes in the preview of a slice based on a face model, with curves and details. It uses a scaled down model (Prusa Slicer). Is this going to be a problem? They are very small, it happens when the nozzle turns around. I assume they will be filled automatically with molten plastic, but who knows? Also looks to me like it slows down the print, when it could have gone from one side to the other.

>>1910232
why? Just use abl and limit switches to home the a and b axis, everything else should be dealt with in software same as current printers

>>1910295
Before someone complains about the missing picture.

>>1910217
How do you keep the print from falling off the print bed if it's a big/heavy print?

>>1910368

>>1910374

New Thread
>>1910389

>>1910388
Dear sir, bed adhesion is a thing. Models aren't simply sitting atop the buildplate due to gravity.

>>1910393
Bed adhesion is a thing until you have a 1kilo print hanging sideways on a plate.

>>1910394
>low centre of mass
not an issue

>high centre of mass
Your print will crash into the fucking frame before it 'slides' off the bed.

retard

>>1910394
>1 kilo print
wtf are you printing that takes up an entire spool in one go

>>1910394
What if we printed structures that had just one purpose, to support the build. We could call it supports.

Someone investigate this idea

>>1910502
Like this?

Whats the catch on this? It seems way too cheap. Is this a decent FDM to use as a main while the Tevo Tornado pumps out 300x300 worth of prints every day?

>>1910517
If your prints are big enough for the force of fucking gravity to overcome heated plate adhesion, you're either using the wrong bed material or you need to use a different printing system

How viable is it to make money off of your single 3D printer? I have designed a hobby solution for a problem I had (/tg/ paint storage) and I'm curious about selling it. My only concern is how long it would take to print each one. How much would you charge per hour of printing? Not an exact price based on time spent printing but what would be a reasonable time to income ratio?

>>1910088
>issues, except for random unaesthetic blobs, similar to pic related. What's the normal solution to this?


the issue with the blobs can come from a sd-card. format the card and try again. it's a reading-speed thing.

>>1910593
you silcer should answer all your question?
in Cura you can put in the $/kg of your material and it calculates the price.

there's serious money in 3D-printing if you have a niche.

the free version of Fusion360's losing features! That's what you get for using proprietary software. INSTALL FREECAD!

>>1911008
but freecad fucking sucks

>>1911154
it's better than sucking Autodesk's dick!

>>1910801
>gaps around holes
>increase the overlap % from 15 to 35
>still have holes
>increase it from 35 to 50%
anyone else had this problem?

>>1910800
(Not the other guy) I threw the included one away and use a scamsung evo select (exact same as evo plus but green) formatted fat32 with 8k sectors to ensure the fastest read speed. It's also 32gb which is massive overkill but the smallest one I have but that makes it more useful since I can backup of all of my models to it just in case something happens to them on my computer.

>>1909815
everything I have ever seen by creality has been trash. the CR10 v1 being a steaming pile of wet sloppy shit.

>>1908561
because this cr10 keeps breaking and taking more shits than a fat man at a 24 hour buffet.

the bed is randomly heating different spots. should i just open it up and check the wires?

ive been printing petg for a while now. unfortunately, the brand i used for about a year went out of business. im trying various other brands, but i constantly run into one problem. i get small blobs of material in some areas of the print (im not really sure what causes them, maybe new layer start?). these blobs then rub on my cooling fan air duct (which is roughly 1,5mm above nozzle) and sometimes even move the print plate (i use both magnets and clips, if these blobs are big enough, the plate moves even with clips applied).
pic related are the blobs. i hope the quality is good enough, i marked them with yellow circles.
i know that petg has a tendency for these blobs to appear, but the previous brand i used rarely ever had this problem. this problem is also especially bad on thin wall parts.
my current retraction is set to 2mm length and 25mm/s speed (bowden setup with chineesium bondtech extruder).
im not really sure where to start with solving this problem. should i print some retraction tests? should i increase or decrease retraction settings? is this even caused by retraction?