/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1901593
>some /g/entoomen prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD
ummm fuck /g/, openSCAD is the bees knees though

>>1901604
>Why the radius on the otherwise flat end?
To smear stuff
>Why the tapered hole?
So what comes out is smeared
>Why does the hole intersect the flat taper? I've seen this before but have no idea why
To smear stuff

Easiest $1600 I've made, I don't even know what I'm doing. I've fucked up somehow and fusion only saved my STL file, and not a .f3d file that would be useful.

>>1901620
smearing... got it
thanks, faggot

>>1901620
>not a .f3d file
You've lost errthing but current model
>thank your father, kids

>>1901660
thanks, confusion360

quick question: How do you connect two female dupont connectors together?
I don't want to solder it, bc I want it removable. I also do not have male connectors or proper crimping tool. What to do? Is there any "hack" that would ensure proper connection?

>>1901717

>>1901717
find wires small enough to fit and big enough to not fall out, and use them like double ended dildos on those females. Then tape it to keep it together.

>>1901717
You should really think about investing in a crimping tool.
Costs like 20$ and it's so much nicer when you can make your own proper dupont/JST/whatever plugs then some ad-hoc shit.

>>1901734
I will try to find some.
>>1901739
I couldn't find any. Do you know about any thing I could find at home that wold fit? Like paperclip was a good example.
>>1901749
I do have some cheap crimp tool for those bigger electrical terminals and ferrules, but I am not sure I could do such a small crimps. I also don't have male connectors anyway.

Any britbongs want to recommend some grey pla? I think the batch I have now is causing my stringing issue. When testing the extruder after a nozzle change I pulled the excess plastic away and I could walk across the whole room and it didn't break, just got as thin as hair. Other plas don't do that they just break off pretty solid when pulled away from the nozzle

>>1901760
The only brand I've ever bought was sunlu PLA+, the one roll of grey I bought had issues sticking to the bed. Hindsight shows it may actually have been a printer problem, but I've never actually gone back to it.

>>1901739
>double ended dildos
What this anon said: Electronic dildos

>>1901801
Any good uk plas in general? I've been using 3dprintz but I think that's causing issues.

>>1901844

>>1901739

>>1901852
Just sunlu PLA+ off of amazon. Cheap and reliable I've found; I've always had good results with their yellow gold.

>>1901852
Not a bong but sunlu white pla (not +) was the first roll of filament I ever bought and it was really easy to work with and had good results with minimal headache even while learning the ropes and dialing my machine in. Can't speak for the pla plus, but the standard pla from them gets the "literally who" anon seal of approval from me.

>>1901870
what's the recommendation for PETG? unfortunately from leafland

>>1901880
No idea. Both rolls of PETG I've bought have come in a non sealed container and were water logged, one was spilling off the reel even before I got it out of the box and even after drying them, I've never really bothered to dial them in (I just don't use it enough).

>>1901889
yeah its seems pretty temperamental but it seems to be better for functional parts cause it's a little more flexible, was just wondering if regular Sunlu PETG is anygood?

Whoever recommended I tried a fang style fan mount is an arse. I printed one off and it ended up making no difference to stringing. I check my print right now and the heat block is covered in molten plastic where the shroud has melted. Had to strip everything and install the original shroud.

>>1901739
Thank you. With your help I was able to find satisfactory solution.

>>1901879
Why not +?

I've not used white pla before. I've stuck to greys so they're easy to photograph.

>>1901801
Not that guy but I tried that pla and I hated it
Garbage brand I’ll never use again

why is fusion so fucking expensive

>>1901920
Because and I haven't used their pla +?

>>1901880
Just got a roll of Overture transparent petg yesterday, came in a vacuum-sealed foil bag which is nice. I only fucked with it for a couple hours but for me running the nozzle at the recommended temperature of 240 on the spool made it a stringy nightmare. Dialing it down to 230 cleaned it up 95% though I was left with some large string amalgamations fused to the part when the print finished from all the tiny strings collecting on the nozzle and being deposited. and I don't know how the Lower Print temperature might affect strength and layer adhesion yet. I'm going to try to run it even colder and see what happens (Cura default for petg is like 215). It sticks fantastically to my e3p totally not buildtak mat at 75c and I suspect it would do as well at 70 but I haven't tested it (thanks to anon from the previous thread telling me it would work) and it also peels off without issue.

>tons of stringing
Halp, I've upped the retract distance to 7mm but I still get tons of strings. I can't lower the temps any further or else I get adhesion issues.

>>1901940
Increase retraction speed

>>1901932
cool thanks for the info, I'll try the Sunlu and see how it works, there aren't that many options on .ca for PETG

for the love of god why the fuck does cura open a new instance when you open a file instead of asking to import it to the currently open window especially when the current build volume is empty

>>1901957
I recommend the house brand from Filaments.ca. Not a shill, they have very good stuff for decent shipping prices. Very consistent stuff and nice spools.

>>1901927
>is fusion so fucking expensive
lol but its free

>>1901940
What's changed?

>>1901970
I looked into them but the minimum buy for free shipping is like $125, and right now I don't print that much....yet

What should I do with my 3d printed instrument? I've added a larger nut, and added more frets.

Also, since I design instruments in cad, what instrument should I make next?

Is it possible to connect a V6 nozzle to a Volcano hotend with some adaptor? Is is a bad idea to do so?

>>1900415
>Why is 3d printing full of so many retards and perverts?
You are on a freedom leaning platform, while Reddit wouldn't tolerate such stuff. So they're here.
>>I'm starting to taint my perspective on it as a hobby.
People are using it to build prostheses. Look for "Tilly Bionic Girl", maybe that will lift your spirit.
>> sex toys or weird cartoon women topless ... printing lolicon bestiality or some shit
Harms nobody. Keeps people of the streets while still learning useful stuff. Though, I'd prefer not to see more dicks made out of plastic...

>>1900882
So much on "free trade is bad, bc we want more jobs". We have a limit of 150€ or so, China told them it has worth of 127€ which is quite exactly the half price. LOL.

>>1900450
How is your Z-axis sensor doing? I had to lower mine, so I could adjust the bed.

>>1901520
> OpenSCAD
Thanks, I'm going to try it some time.

>>1901940
Speed can solve stringing issues. Heatgun treatment after printing might make it irrelevant, it's considered to be a rather unimportant issue. Also: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>>1902040
Here is a pic of the new frets. It has 18 frets now. I'm thinking of adding pickups maybe so it is electric.

>>1901760
Bad PLA doesn't just magically string lol, you've got a cooling issue. Did you change nozzle size or just swap it out for a freshie?

My glass bed got scratched by the end. Will it stick worst now?

>>1901964
are you double clicking your STL icons to open them or are you using the folder button in cura?

>>1902041
>I'd prefer not to see more dicks made out of plastic...

I suppose they could be made from carbon fiber or wood filament. The ambitious anon may even be able to print them from food products or biological materials.

A coworker is offering me a 3D printer for free. It's apparently a Makerbot Replicator 2. He says the extruder is bad, but I honestly have no idea. I have absolutely zero experience with 3D printing, but it seems cool. Is it worth the time/hassle/money? I'm pretty capable with fixing stuff, and my coworker is pretty much an idiot so it could just be something obvious wrong. Am I in for a world of frustration or did I luck out?

>>1902219
Not great, not terrible. You can probably replace the extruder with an E3D Volcano for a fix and an upgrade at the same time.
Only issue could be the lack of experience turning the repair process into a drag that you eventually give up on.
Get the printer, see if it's an easy fix, if not, bail.

>>1902219
For free? Yeah, take it. It might be an easy fix, it might not even have any problems and your friend is just a retard; worst case scenario is that it's fucked and will take a lot to fix, but you've spent nothing and have the option to unfuck it or chuck it.

>>1902219
Good chance it just has a clogged nozzle.

>>1902227
>>1902228
>>1902230
Thanks bros. I'm excited, but I'm concerned I'm just gonna end up making a bunch of tiny penises. Sounds like that is par for the course. I'll blog post about the printer tomorrow if I get it.

>>1902231
Good luck if you get one.

>>1902231
>Thanks bros. I'm excited, but I'm concerned I'm just gonna end up making a bunch of tiny penises.
Is this a problem?

not him, but I need a cock to print out to send overseas to my brother serving in the AF. anyone got a model they wouldn't mind sharing?

>>1902366
Cults3d.com

>>1902393
danke

How practical is a micro Swiss hot end for an ender 3? I had a nozzle bleed plastic all over it's self from not being quite tightened enough. I have to strip the whole hot end down and I'm wondering if it's worth picking up a metal hot end.

I only print pla, I don't need the extra heat. Less bullshit with Bowden tubes is my primary appeal.

>>1902462
just get a direct drive then?

>>1902393
>Dude 3d scanned his own dick so he could go fuck himself
what a fucking legend

>>1902055
you'll see it on the bottom of prints, flip over the glass and don't screw up next time

>>1902465
What benefits does that offer?

>>1902469
No ptfe tube being heated? isn't that what you want?

>>1902471
It's not about tube heating. I don't want to have to worry if my tube is a fraction off and bam plastic volcano.

>>1902462
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30qqKUwviww
people say that all metal clogs more, but I have 2 in my powerspec ultra and they're fine, but do the video's tip to make sure it doesn't leak again (if you haven't already)

>>1902471
you can still have a small piece of PTFE tube in direct drive systems

>>1902480
I don't think anything is going to prevent that except properly torquing your heater block and nozzle.

What printer would be best for printing terrain and models in FDM? Looking for auto leveling and a flexible magnetic bed. Would be nice if it could print at 0.8 layer heights in detail nozzle.

>>1902366
WTF?!? Is this meant to be some embarrassing joke?
>>1902469
None, this thread is more and more about derangement and dumbfuckery. DD might be better for printing flexible stuff, often the differences aren't that important. You can print PLA with anything. Though, some hotends, especially one for color mixing seem to only work with boden drives.
>>1902516
Every FDM printer that works can do that, nothing special. Maybe you want one with the metal bed from the start, so you don't need to buy and install it later. I'm not sure if you even need it, though. Also 0.8 is less details than 0.4, but faster. There are cheap colormixing hotends which only have a 0.4 nozzle (diamant hotend). If I wanted to print landscapes I would take one like that into consideration.

>>1902516
ender 6 se? With a magnetic bed?

>>1902560
>WTF?!? Is this meant to be some embarrassing joke?
Clearly you're unaware that the military is the gayest straight organization in the world (this is true for the USA, can't say for everyone else but I know a lot of other militaries like Russia are just straight-up gay raping each other every day, literally)

Anyone else want to throw their printer out the fucking second floor windows some days?
That’s me today

Pic only semi related

>>1902560
>WTF?!? Is this meant to be some embarrassing joke?
Yes, and no. Dick jokes are a military past time ranging back to before biblical times. Also, I know he's bored af innasandbox and I figure a suction cup dildo will provide some meager entertainment.

>>1902578
Not gay, but just for pranks and fun. I'm sure it'll get confinscated as soon as an officer hears about it.

>fo' free

>>1902614
Planning on going on a shootin spree bud?

>>1902615
>not having ammo
It's like you don't even want to barter for gold.

>>1902615
If I'm going on a shooting spree, it's definitely not gonna be with FMJ 9mm.

>>1902608
Yes, I know it's not gay, that was my whole point (unless he's Russian)

Is it worth getting a prusa mk3 clone or should I get the original? What difference would it make?

how do you prevent this? it's hatchbox pla prints really well but if you leave connected to printer for a few days it just does this

>>1902657
Your filament is too dry, you have to moisturize it with vaseline to prevent it from cracking.

>>1902657
You have to realise the filament line is under quite a bit of stress when you stretch it out in a straight line.
Ways to prevent this are making sure your filament has no moisture in it (dehumidifier or a dehydrated box), or just removing it when you;re not using it.
What may work is taking a rework station (or a hair dryer I guess) and heating the straight part above the HDT but below TG. Be warned though if you're stupid about it you can just melt the line.

>>1902657
This might sound silly but if you put the spool the other way, feeding from the bottom it will give itself some slack via filament barrel-roll slinky technique. Idk how you have the roll places in relation to your printer tho so it's still up for debate

>>1902734
yeah probably just going to have to remove it when I'm done

>>1902614
>Burger king trash
>empty arizona can
>box of rounds
>fo' free
I don't even need to say it do I?

how the cunt do i make petg not a nightmare? print it hot for good adhesion, it turns into a fuzzy mess. print it cool so it doesnt turn into a troll doll, and you get shit layer adhesion. do you just have to do it hot and just set the carriage to sanic fast? retraction is already 10mm at 50mm/s.

>>1902614
your hairy hand brake makes me horny

>>1902578
I think you're lying. But I'm soo glad not to be in such an organization. I even dodged draft by leaving my country.
>>1902639
Prusa has the reputation of building very reliable stuff. Also, if you live in some EU country with aggressive customs (Germany) you might pay a lot extra to the price of the China import (~150), since they do price estimations.

Took a few hours of messing around with it, but the free makerbot is printing very okayish. I'm pleased so far.

Also, niggas cant handle my car. And that's okay. I'll just print a new one.

>>1902835
>customs in germany
so far i never had to pay customs on anything, more expensive stuff that was 200€+ came with postal stickers from 3 east block countries before it was delivered to my door, guess that's how aliexpress and banggood dodge that

>>1901717
Buy long goldpins, the plastic part can be pushed to the middle and you have an easy male-to-male connector.
If the wires vibrate, add a wire (or a thread, or - possibly worst of all - a scotch tape) as a miniature zip tie to prevent disconnection.

>>1902099
>dicks
>made of biological materials
you made me laugh

>>1902516
>Would be nice if it could print at 0.8 layer heights in detail nozzle.
Rule of thumb is that nozzle size should not exceed 75-80% of nozzle diameter. ''Detail'' nozzles are usually in the 0.25-0.4mm range, so that's between 0.2 and 0.3mm layer height. Big layers are lowering the resolution anyways, so there's no reason not to go with a 0.8mm nozzle and a 0.6mm layer height for example. However, this may exceed the heating capacity of a lot of hotends, so a 0.6 nozzle with a 0.4 layer height may be a safer bet. I had no problems with 0.8 over 0.6 on a V6 Volcano, so that upgrade may be worth it in the future if you wanna print fast.
Your main concern should be build volume: how big do you need to print your terrain models? 220, 300, 400 and 500mm cubed are common sizes for cartesion units, and 300mm should be fine in most cases. A loaded CR-10 or Chiron would be a great choice there.

>>1902639
Clones can be found for a lot, a lot cheaper and may therefore be worth it. They are not the same quality and may require extensive tuning or parts, but in the end, you end up with a printer that does 99% of the job at between 25 and 50% of the price - assuming you don't value your time. You're on 4chan, so I assume that to be the case.

>>1902835
>Also, if you live in some EU country with aggressive customs (Germany) you might pay a lot extra to the price of the China import (~150), since they do price estimations.
All economic traffic within the Schengen countries is free from customs (or at least, customs tax), therefore, you should always order from Aliexpress warehouses in Europe. There's one in Cologne, and the Anycubic Chiron I ordered was at my doorstep (Netherlands) within two days and without any taxes.

>>1901593
im disappointed the knackered nozzle didnt make OP

>>1902639
More money than time > original
More time than money > clone
I didn't feel like waiting around for parts that I will realise I need only a couple weeks down the road, so I got an original kit. But that price does sting, though. I guess I'll find out, it should arrive next week.

So apparently a 3kg spool won't fit on the ender 3 pro. Guess that's just a reason to do some inventin'.

>>1902853
Lucky bastard got a free printer.

>>1903051
and a makerbot at that

>>1901852
oh i never replied to the question in the last thread: i showed my gf dragon dildos and she was excited

>>1903093
Yeah right... Post dildo in gf and I'll believe it.

Seriously tho, you should tell "her" to put a condom over it for prevention of bacteria and hygiene sake. Don't want to get a possible flesh eating bacteria anywhere near the nether regions.

>>1903101
dont get too excited, i showed her pics on google and asked her for her opinion.
>>1901593
in other news i made my first parts in fusion360 today, so far alright, i dont know enough yet to rate it
i didnt find the option for assemblies tho, kinda meh if i want to check how things might fit together

>>1902853
I missed this story, how did you get a free makerbot?

Hey mein niggers. 20% off zyltech filament with code labor20. https://www.zyltech.com.. pretty sure this is US only. Sorry eurobros.

>>1903140
If you would read, it was posted in this very same thread. Did the fumes get to ya, son?

Thoughts on the Artillery Sidewinder X1?

Anyone print model rockets? I'm working on a design that holds an esp32 camera board to record the launch and flight data

>>1903203
>Thoughts on the Artillery Sidewinder X1?
Got the smaller brother, Genius. But don't have a comparison, since it's my first. Decent for beginners, but not completely without starting problems.
Maybe the decisive point between Artillery and Ender is, if one wants to start with a direct drive or Boden. I also considered Anicubic, but their shipping wasn't attractive and they're not on AliExpress. The Artilleries also have a bed with the normal current 110/230V from your outlet, which makes the bed heating fast, but it might be dangerous and kill you or at least burn down your house. Though, not everyone sees it as a risk and there are printed addons to mitigate it. Like the economy, it's probably fine somehow.
I hope to print flexible stuff for air muscles (picture) and such, seems to work better with direct drive. Also it's considered to be a relatively quiet printer, which it is, but with high speed and jerk it gets louder. Sometimes I don't here it starting with the first layers, while sitting next to it and a ventilator is running somewhere.
I went with the smaller brother bc it's enough for most parts and for big prints coreXY might be better anyways, so I might get another one with that later. Sapphire Plus or whatever.

>>1903154
ABS is a hellavu drug

Wtf is going on with this? I had some stringing issues so I decided to reseat the heat block. Now the room stinks of molten plastic and I'm getting failed prints and random large blobs of filament.

>>1903218
>model rockets
Isn't that just a modified dildo print?

What is the opinion on Wood-Pla filament?

>>1903255
I bought some to make a hand guard and stock for my AK47, but never tried it. Heard it clogs like crazy tho

>>1903218
think that nerys guy on youtube does those only watched his builds though don't know what else he does

>>1903218
I used 3d printing for holding the internals of the rocket. I wouldn't recommend using for the body. I had a long debate about 3d printing a nose cone and fins. A nose cone would work if you reinforced it with carbon fiber strands and epoxy. Fins would might be to thin to print, maybe fins printed flat would work. Generally 3d printing plastic is to heavy for big model rocketry parts so I would stick to the tried and true hard cardboard tube. If you do any more models check out Open Rocket. I did put a camera in a rocket before. I would post pics but I don't to give away who I am. Good luck!

>>1903299
>to heavy for big model rocketry parts
Use a bigger engine u fag.

>>1903247
See if it does it at that height every time and if it does there may be an issue with the firmware or the leadscrew.

>>1903299
>>1903327
does /diy/ ever do model rockety generals?

>>1903268
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVMfyPIV1fQ

>>1903377
Was printing like a charm before that so there's no issues.

How safe would an elegoo mars pro be in a shed? I'm looking at buying a shed and putting an elegoo mars pro in it and want to know what issues that might cause. Has any one else done it?

you you guys recommend the new photon x or the ellego Saturn

>>1903436
Depends. Mono X has a slightly larger build volume, supports printing over wifi, and is probably made from higher quality materials overall. People say that Elegoo has better customer service and the Saturn has printing over ethernet. I already pre ordered the Mono X but I'll end up getting the Saturn too.

Slowly learning CAD and now have the first print underway of something I designed. Bros, this is way too much fun.

>>1902040
make some kind of wind instrument

>>1903436

They're all going to be shipping after october-november so don't expect to get one anytime soon. All of them look good so i'd get whichever is cheapest. In the preorders the Photon X (without mono) sold out quickest because it's the best bang-per-buck. Its resolution is lower, and it prints slower, but the screen is much cheaper to replace.

>>1903487
I plan on printing a prototype I made of a slide whistle. If that works, I'll also make a slide ocarina, which basically just a slide whistle in a ocarina body.

>>1902657
>made in china
welp

>>1903559
Most filament is made in China. Trust me I looked for stuff made in usa and all the pellets extruded or filaments in rolls come from there.

>>1903477
>That 5th layer or so a shit

>>1903572
I may just be an idiot, but is ABS harder to work with than PLA? Most of my prints have been kind of lackluster, and warp like crazy early on

Where my tape bros at?
Printing spools is a lot cheaper than buying them

What is /3dpg/ printing?

I'm working on some minis for my homebrew 40K army.

>>1903579
try turning the part cooling fan way down or completely off when printing ABS

Any CAD annons able to help for a little project of mine?

>>1903590
That's gonna be the ones on the extruder heads? Those are the only ones on my printer

>>1903593
You willing to shell out the cash?

>>1903597
It's a literall sleeve for my vape mod

>>1903601
you sound like a faggot. I'll charge you double

>>1903608
>vape
Charge him triple for being a super faggot.

>>1903203
mine came with a warped bed, bought a replacement months later because i didnt want to hassle with returns. firmware is a bitch to flash if youre doing it more than once. Also replaced stock nozzle with a trianglabs clone, not sure if it was completeley necessary. great build quality allows printing at 100+mm/s(not base speed,everything set to 100mm/s). I never liked manual levelng so I removed the spring and replaced them with spacers and added a bltouch clone. Overall id say, pretty alright.

+Price
+Build Volume
+Mains Bed
+Build Quality = Fast printing
+Volcano clone

-Average firmware(no lin adv,s curve,preheat on stock firmware)
-No auto leveling
-Possible warped bed/shit nozzle(replacing these only costs like $50 total)

Get it on sale if you like those bullet points
Ask any questions if you have them

>>1903584
Wow, so COOL!
>>>/toy/

how do i get cura to treat merged/grouped models as a single mesh? i want to get rid of the separations highlighted with the blue boxes. merging and grouping do not fix the issue and the parts are 100% aligned together with the skins of each occupying the same space, so its for all intents and purposes a single contiguous mesh.

>>1903667
heres the normal view, you can see all of the z fighting when i break up the group and highlight just one model so its for sure completely in alignment

>>1903669
>>1903667
Do you have both:
->Mesh Fixes
->Union Overlapping Volumes : True
->Extensive Stitching : True
Other than that, not sure

>>1903673
did not have stitching on, that and increasing the merged mesh overlap fixed basically everything. theres still a bit of artifacting(?) from the geometry of the individual models but i dont think it will even show up on the print form how small it is.
many thanks anon

I've got two filaments from two different sources which make cracking sounds and have cracks while extruding. Don't print well. Temp doesn't matter. Both came sealed with dessicant. Bot are priced above 20$. Are they moist?!? Or just garbage.
I also checked how much the gears grab it, and did a cold pull, noting changed. Since I don't have a food dryer yet, I'll put one in the oven at 45C for some hours. Any opinions or advices.

>printed a calicat
>went to make dinner
>come back to this
i created art
>>1903693
most likely moisture, yes

>>1903595
ABS is harder to print, you might need a enclosure to do it really good. Also, the other guy meant to turn cooling of in your slicer.

>>1903661
Which version? I have V4. My bed seems to be fine, though I needed to use a good test: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer
These printers change all the time, they're constantly optimizing.
The nozzle is still a cheap one, however, and might be my problem here: >>1903693
I wonder, if you add auto bed leveling, doesn't it solve the problem of a warped bed anyways? You might have overspend.

I get this and a really bad burning smell while it prints.

I adjusted my throat yesterday having heard it can cause stringing and now it's a complete cluster fuck.

Ender 3. Pla 195.

I may be retarded.

Figured PETG was doable on a stock Ender 3 Pro, maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Ender 3 Pro, metal extruder, bed springs, leveled and height set properly.
Eryone black PETG, new roll
245/80 as per reviews/Eryone
Can't get it to stick to the magnetic build plate, tried 3m blue tape but it peels as soon as the bed hits 40, and even at 80 it immediatly peels off of the tape if it decides to stay on the bed.

Am I missing something? Bad roll? Fresh out of the sealed bag. First try on PETG. The one print it decided to stick to the bare magnetic bed was at 240/65, and even then it was just BARELY holding on and the print quality was garbage on a 45m test sunwheel I use.

>>1903765

I should also add, that is at 60mm/s and no cooling.

>>1903766
how fast is your first layer?
mine prints at 25mm/s

>>1903693
Hooray, after nine days or so I found the problem with my printer (picture related).

>>1903255
It's pretty neat. Smells good when printing, sands reasonably easily, takes stains better than you'd think plastic does. The Hatchbox spool I have has clogged only a couple of times so far, with a few partial clogs, so I think anything larger than an 0.4mm nozzle would work great, but you can still print it with 0.4mm.

>>1903259
Do it and post results.

>>1903579
>is ABS harder to work with than PLA
Yes. Warps easier and harder to get fine detail. It doesn't string nearly as bad and is a dream to post-process, though.

someone hold my hand and spoonfeed me please- is there any particular r*ddit group or similar gathering of people who'd be willing to change some parts of a model for me? I have absolutely zero idea what I'm doing and figure it would be a lot faster for someone who did know what to do than it would be for me to stumble through this shit. I found a model that is apparently 200 meters tall which i'd need down to like 10 inches, and to delete one part but again I am not a smart man

>>1901595
Sorry, I don't want to learn how to fucking program just to print out my butt plugs.

>>1903943
Try /r/HungryArtists or something.

>>1903844
What kind of dildo did that to your nozzle? How many insertion cycles did it sustain before becoming loose and enlarged?

>>1903943
>>1903948
I am hungry. I will do it for a sack of potatoes.

>>1903894
>Do it and post results.
k, will do tomorrow. what temp and settings do you recommend?

>>1903895
Is ABS stronger than PLA for functional/engineered items though?

>>1903203
My brother and me both bought the same printer and both of ours had issues where the extruder stopped working all together. Replacing the extruder didn't fix the issue and we didn't do anything besides printing with them.

>>1903989
>temp
200
>settings
PrusaSlicer has a default for "Colorfabb Woodfill PLA", been using that just fine with Hatchbox wood, with the exception that I turned down the extrusion multiplier from 1.2 to 1.0 (because WTF, why?)

>>1904025
>we didn't do anything besides printing with them.
Are you sure you didn't try to have sex with the printer?

>>1903894
It shouldn't be an abrasive filament. Right?...unless they add some sand to it?

How about unstained? Does it look good? I suppose it would be good for drawing on with ink or adding graphics as well?

>>1904056
Also how much effort and time is required to stain wood filament prints? Should be easier and quicker than regular wood staining?

>>1904056
>shouldn't be abrasive
Too early for me personally to tell, but I've heard lots of people say it wears nozzles.
>does it look good unstained
Not bad, but at the very least sand it. It should take ink reasonably well, doesn't seem to "bleed" like wood would across grains.
>adding graphics
No idea. Like stickers? Probably fine.
>>1904058
>how much time and effort
Sanding it is the most intensive part, if you want to get rid of the layer lines completely it takes a bit of time. Staining it is easy, you can even do it with a paper towel; one wipe and you're pretty much good to go, unless you want to make it darker.

If you REALLY want to make it look like wood:
>Introduce small intentional underextrusions (mimicking pores)
>sand with ~100 grit until you get rid of the layer lines
(I haven't tried starting with 60, might be faster)
>"dab"/stipple with 60 grit in the direction you want to have grain
>go over with 100 again briefly to smooth over a little
>stain
>???
>profit

How the FUCK do I get my printer to stop jamming constantly?

>>1904075
larger diameter nozzle
better quality filament
different hotend
better printer

there's a thousand different reasons for "jamming" and you've described none of them

>>1904075
Stop playing reggae at it.

If it keeps clogging your bowden tube or nozzle aren't positioned correctly.

Prusa i3 mk3 or ender 3 with bltouch, all metal hot end and octoprint?

>>1904064
>No idea. Like stickers? Probably fine.
No. Like transfer inks.

You have some interesting ideas, anon. How much would it add to the value if it looks exactly like real wood? Have you already tested these procedures yourself?

How often are anons replacing their nozzles?
How about if primary use is abrasive or semi-abrasive filament?

It seems one of our posters has already beat us to the idea and is selling on Etsy.

>>1904099
>mark of the shabbos goy slave
Why do amerimutts do this?

>>1904008
It has less strength but it might fail more gracefully and it is more resistent against UV light. You do know about Google?

>>1904025
>>>1903203
> extruder stopped working all together. Replacing the extruder didn't fix the issue
Yeah but why and why?

>>1904075
>How the FUCK do I get my printer to stop jamming constantly?
Retraction settings to high?

>>1904087
>Prusa i3 mk3 or ender 3 with bltouch, all metal hot end and octoprint?
This is bait, right? Bltouch 30€, all metal hotend 13€, Octoprint for free, Raspi 30-40€

>>1904096
2nd question: Hardened Steel, steel plated (Metal X), or Ruby nozzle.

>>1904095
I've never used or heard of transfer inks before now; from what I can google it seems like you can *probably* do it but best you try it yourself.
>How much would it add to the value if it looks exactly like real wood?
I have no idea, this depends entirely on what you're making. A whistle that looks exactly like real wood but is 3D printed isn't going to be much (or maybe even any) more valuable than a carved wood one, etc.

>Have you already tested these procedures yourself?
Printing, sanding, staining, yes. I can upload some pictures tomorrow of stain tests I've done recently


>>1904099
>has already beat us to the idea
No reason there can't be multiple people doing it

>>1904096
Literally never replaced it on my first printer, still prints fine after like... 10kg? of dubious-quality filaments (back in 2013 onwards, when people were still mixing in complete garbage filler into their plastics). Still printing fine after half a roll of woodfill, nylon, polycarb, several kgs of PLA and ABS on my newest printer but I'll have to investigate how it looks after I finish off that woodfill roll

>>1904087
>MK3 or Ender 3
>>1904107 is right, this has to be bait, if you have the option of getting the MK3S, just get that and enjoy it

>>1904109
It's not bait it's a serious question. I could buy a mk3 with pocket change. I'm considering if it's worth upgrading the ender or if it's worth the extra cash.

>>1904107
Hardened steel is fine, ruby is way too brittle and chips so easily and costs a fuck ton.

>>1904113
Get the MK3S unless you really REALLY like messing with the printer itself instead of actually printing things. It's a damn solid machine.

>didn't get 0.8mm nozzle to print properly yesterday
>sit at work and all I think about is going home to get the calibration right
>let's check shipping status of the bmg-extruder and direct drive conversion plate I ordered Friday
>"hey you still have items in your shopping cart"
I wish I had octoprint and a cam installed already

>>1904082
If I knew why it was happening then I would have no question to ask.

>>1904084
>bowden tube
it's direct drive
>nozzle
What does that mean? Like the layer height needs to be more?

>>1904107
Does high retraction cause or prevent jamming?

>>1904123
I'm sick of messing with it. Which is why I'm considering the prusa. But the prusa is expensive as hell and I could upgrade my ender and get an elegoo mars pro for the same cost.

>>1904131
it can cause jamming if the filament gets retracted out of the hot zone and cools down/harden before it gets fed back and jams in the gap between tubing and nozzle. a possible solution I picked up from YouTube is pic related

>>1904132
That wasn't the original question. Do you need the Mars for something or a reliable FDM printer? Do you even know anything about resin printing? Also, bedleveling is normally not necessarily very often, so why Bltouch? You need to find your own priorities.

What are the post-processing tricks for flexible filament? Can it be sanded? What is the quickest way to remove bumps?

Brehs, my Mk3s arrives today, I'm so stoked.

>>1904152
Maybe smoothing it with a soldering iron or something hot is best for flexible?

>>1904152
get a pair of nice model kit flush cutters for bumps and nubs. a heat gun is useful for getting rid of strings

>>1904157
I have tried all of the generally recommended things many times before. The problem I am running into is bumps that are in or near nooks and hard-to-reach places. Difficult with flush cutters unless I can find something very small, but still good.

>>1904162
Maybe some carpenter's pliers if I can find something very small

>>1904162
Have you tried a deburr knife?

>>1904164
Almost would work, but I need something better. I think I will try some micro end nippers... then may some powder smoothing with a heat gun.

>>1904166
Has anyone else tried sandblasting their parts to smooth them?

Does spray paint work as a finishing process?

>>1904186
You need to apply primer beforehand but yes.

>>1903716
its a v4 but had a huge dip in the middle, i gave them the benefit of the doubt because the replacement is much better.
and no, the auto bed leveling did help. but it could not completely compensate and would cause slight nozzle collisions leading to surface artifacts.

>>1904168
Not sure how I would feel about blasting my dildo

>>1904162
Scalpel?

>>1901852
Is this another raisefag? We are brothers.

>>1904137
The original question is comparing two FDM printers. One in stock state and the other upgraded to be the best it can be.

My priority is a machine that works and can print large objects reliably in fdm. The resin is then used for smaller objects needing more precision..

>>1904214
No one here can know all the factors influencing your decision. Sounds like buying Prusa first and Resin a while later to me. Though I personally would rather tinker with some alternative than spending so much on a Prusa.

>>1904113
An upgraded Ender 3 isn't/won't be the same as an MK3. And the amount of mods needed to get it close will nearly even out the price difference.

>bltouch/ezabl
>new hot end
>direct drive
>dual z rods
>new board
>new plate (stock one is shit)
>new steppers
>rpi + octoprint
>fixing any of the number of issues that arise from the poor quality control of produced Ender 3's (warped plates, bent rods, bent frame)


The route of upgrading an Ender 3 is more for people who want to learn about FDM printers in general, because you'll learn A LOT since you'll be changing so much and regularly trouble-shooting the entire printer. If you're an engineer type, you'll find that fun.

Get the MK3 and while you save up for your resin printer, print your mini's using a smaller size nozzle in ABS and acetone bathe them to get a "resin-esque" print.

>>1904164
I still don't know how to use one of these

>>1903584
my girls made "potions" and wanted caps. After seeing the disasters on thingiverse I just made my own solution

>>1903667
you can use meshmixer to combine and solidify. I've had pretty good results although it always defaults to mashed potato poly settings.

or you could make that from scratch in fusion360 in five minutes

>>1903713
I love posts that make me feel better about myself.

Are insert threads for wood any good to use for plastics?

>>1904292
LOL, same here. Bought it, wondered, never used it. There are sure some tutorials for it, but I just bought it as one of the tools one should have for 3d printing.

>>1904292
>>1904400
For running it inside of a hole for deburring you just pull outward and work the blade around the edge clockwise. It can also deburr edges, but only if you pull the cutting edge towards yourself.

>>1904400
>Are insert threads for wood any good to use for plastics?
Yeah, most metal inserts perform about the same. Just use a big enough one if you want decent torque/pullout strength. Go look up CNCKitchen's testing for more info on the topic.

Can someone design a proper goddamn stringing test already? All the towers suck. They're not accurate test because they just move between two points. A proper stringing test would involved several points and ways to measure your adjustments.

>>1904250
>will nearly even out the price difference
seeing how the mk3s-kit is about 800€ i find it hard to believe that, except you're factoring in time as big chunk. the ender starts at 170€ and all the upgrades you listed would be about 350€ when buying quality parts, rounded up its still a 250€ difference - which could buy you a resin printer

>>1903563
IIRC most PLA (about 80%) is made in the US (since it's often made from corn starch)

>>1904551
all the pellets I can find come from china.

>>1904551
And 90% of the manufacturing equipment to make it into filament and roll it onto spools is also in China

Resin bros, where do you buy your resin?

Is there a resin you like more than others?

>>1904154
Samefagging, didn't expect the assembly to take 10+h...

>>1902596
Get a resin printer.

>>1904610
>didn't expect the assembly to take 10+h...

That's less than one day of work you lazy retard

>>1904454
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction

It's still a tower but every few layers you can change to different settings so you can try multiple settings in one print. Pretty useful tool and the site in general is extremely well done. I really don't know why this isn't added to the OP, especially for newbies this stuff is gold.

>>1904250
And none of those things, absolutely none will help you match the print quality of an ender 3 that's been setup properly.

>>1904717
>FDM printers
>quality
step aside retard, none of those will help you match the print quality of a resin printer that came out of the box.

>>1904728
>20 hours to print keychain sized items

No thanks.

>>1904728
>keeps posting figures and shit
Got anything functional or is that all SLA is good for is figurines?

>>1904728
>20 hours

O ye of little brain
dare you look upon the truth?

>>1904748
Sure do. I have a functioning printer while your FDM malfunctions on the regular

>>1904738
>20 hours

O ye of little brains
Dare you look upon the truth?

>>1904759
>25 grams
>4 hours

kek

>>1904779
We are only allowed to post nude or semi-nude figurines here.

>>1904785

>>1904783
>6+ miniatures at a time
>superior detail
>no fiddling with chink temps, extruders, bed screws, bowden tubes, stringing

based af

>>1904785
Very well, then

>>1904755
Huh? I'm a different guy asking if your printer prints anything other than figures.

>>1904790
Can you print a lower receiver?

This is the dilemma.
One printer can print your nude figurines just right.
The other printer can print your TPU dildos.
Really can't say if one printer is right or wrong. Both are needed.

>>1904843
both printers can do moldforms for silicone casted fleshlights

>>1904837

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekDs60QxmNE

>>1904837

I've also seen a dude on youtube make a usable silencer

>>1904792
>>1904786
>>1904781
>>1904779
>>1904768
>>1904764
>>1904728
>>1904759
>>>/toy/

>>1904864
I mean, can you print one with SLA, since it's so based AF?

>>1904154
>>1904610
>just ordered 6 for work
Jesus Christ thank fuck I convinced boss man to pay for assembly.

>>1904881
Salty there m80
Least you could do is try to send them to the 3dpg on /tg/, but here's a better place for more technical details.

SLS for hobbiests, with metal not fat or sugartea. When?
https://www.instructables.com/id/JRLS-1000-DIY-SLS-3D-PRINTER/

>>1904892

Yes, i thought my post made that clear (I'm not the anon with the figurines btw). If you use tough resin it will perform similar to ABS, but the printing precision will be many times higher.

>>1904936
And how much do you have to shell out for a printer that can handle
9 inches of print width?

>>1904939

About 500-600$ for an Elegoo Saturn - the 9inch length would be mostly oriented along Z, with a slight tilt. You can probably even do it on a tiny Mars printer if you modify the Z-axis rail and run some gcode commands to extend the maximum Z-limit.

>>1902040
make a balalaika

These are fun to make

>>1903218
im seeking a design for a rocket that will kinda tightly fit a salami and has a hollow nose cone for the peroxide and yeast

>>1903393
never done 3d printed rockets. i always do them out of PVC, water bottles and wood (and a salami motor ofcourse)

>>1904792
why is ti censored?

>>1904996
are they expensive to make? I maybe order a nearby shop to make one for me

>>1903033
good work, but where to get 3kg spools?

>>1905015
No not at all
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-low-poly-skull-23168

>>1903101
>Don't want to get a possible flesh eating bacteria anywhere
can confirm, flesh eating bacterial infection sucks
0/10 would not recommend

>>1905017
I got it from 123-3d.nl, but that may be useless depending on where you live.

>>1905021
>another Dutchfag in the thread
Fucking finally. Where you from?

>>1903247
>I decided to reseat the heat block
>>1903420
>Was printing like a charm before that
sounds like you whatever you did to the heat block fukd it up, tear it down and redo it maybe

>>1905023
>please dox yourself
No way.

>>1905025
As long as you're not from Limburg it's fine by me. Please confirm.

>>1903593
show your sketch/pics, am learning and need a projekt

What causes this? It happens right at the seam. I reckon it has something to do with the retract speed?
Its currently at 0.4mm retract @ 50mms
The cubes were done on 2 different Sidewinder X1s, PLA @ 220C

>>1905029
Looks like a Z-seam to me, not ghosting or poor retraction. Randomise each layer.

>>1905031
Wont random seams make the entire print bumpy?

>>1905018
nice thanks

>>1905032
Nah, they mostly disappear.

>>1905021
>but that may be useless depending on where you live
yep, freedomland, i havent found 3kg spools here of 1.75mm

>>1905046
>3kg spools
>>1903563
>Trust me I looked for stuff made in usa
filacube.com

Got a Chiron, want to print minis, at tabletop scales (25mm), with PLA. I've got a .3 nozzle, but I have a .4 nozzle slotted in. What's the lowest I can go with a .4 nozzle on? I read that the machine is the main limiter here. I also will use adaptive layers too, but lower res will always be better.

>>1905052
Sold my Chiron so I can't check, but iirc it had 8mm pitch rods. With a 200 step/rev stepper motor, that comes down to 0.04mm whole step size, so your layer height should be a multiple of this. You should get rid of the mesh bed leveling for this though, since that ruins your neat, whole steps and goes into microstepping, reducing the quality of your results.
I'd generally advise to stay between 25 and 75% of your nozzle size for any given layer height, that makes 0.075 and 0.225mm for the lower and upper bound, respectively. Round that up and down with the 0.04 magic numbers and you get 0.08 and 0.20mm for a 0.3mm nozzle. You might consider 0.12mm for a bit more speed, but as 25mm minis are pretty small I'd just go 0.08 and let it print slow for maximum results. You bough an excellent printer - for printing big terrain pieces with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.6mm layer height, you're not exactly within design intent printing small shtuff.
Please do check the Z pitch though, I cannot confirm right now.

>>1905052
>>1905063
>I also will use adaptive layers too,
Don't, just stick to one small layer height and deal with the lack of speed.

>>1905063
Thanks annon, had ridicilously good results with adaptive layers- Cura doesn't stop me from going to 0.05mm on layers, so I'm just ever so slightly bothered.

My printer printed a worm!

Its a 0.4mm nozzle, you can see the old black filament. After switchting to red silk PLA this came out of the nozzle.

Does not running the cooling fan really make a significant difference with the strength and quality of petg? Printing at 240 doesn't really seem to have good at layer adhesion (definitely not as good as pla at 200) I can't go higher because stock hotend, toxic fumes, you know. But I also don't want to print a goopy stringy mess that's going to have to be processed to hell and back to get it to be usable.

>>1905091
A significant difference, yes, but probably not enough to matter if you design accordingly. Are you talking about first layer adhesion, or adhesion in general? I've had great succes with bed adhesion using hairspray and no fan, slowly ramping up fan % in about 5 layers.

>>1905089
how does that even

>>1902614
>>1902219
so champ, are ya printin' son?

>>1905095
In general, I've got bed adhesion dialed-in that's not much of a problem anymore it just seems like my parts don't really adhere well along layer lines. What I mean is, for example, if you print a rectangle flat and try to bend it it will be quite strong and resistant and comply instead of snapping. However if you print that rectangle upright, it be far easier to break and would snap across a layer line, as you would expect, but it feels *too* easy. pla with the same exact model and settings minus temperature would shatter in both cases, but would hold far stronger in the upright case before it breaks.

>>1905096
no clue lmao, the test print came out fine

>>1904881
where do you think we are?

>>1905106
Seems like it's not heating properly indeed. I used to print PETG at 220 for both Ultimaker and E3D V6 hotends, so you are on the hot end of temperatures right there.

>>1905101
see
>>1902853

>>1905101
Yup. She's up and printing. Learning CAD now as well. Pic related were bolts I drew in Fusion and then printed. Having a blast so far.

>>1905019
Did you have to have yours cut out or did they pump you full of antibiotics?

>>1905149
i had an amputation, and tons of iv antibiiotics, so both

>>1905149
I'll shake your hand on this one, medifag here.

There are worse things than that tho as medical and insertions go. ER is one helluva rollercoaster

>>1903420
>buying a shed

i have not touched my printer since march

>>1905110
Maybe my print speed? What would you recommend? I tried the default 50 mm / s and it was a stringing nightmare. I always read that you have to go slow with petg but in in the same hand they say going faster will solve the stringing. So I've been running it at 100, same as pla, and the prints turn out pretty good quality with minor stringing but meh adhesion as said.

I got a new creality ender and suddenly it started having feeding problems. The filament stopped every so many centimeters(observable because the extruder cog created deeper crevices like the filament couldnt advance). I have taken the hotend apart but I havent noticed anything clogging it.

The pfte tube It seems it has been deformed(and despite taking out the filament there was still a small piece at the end but idk if thats normal) and now I cant put it back together because the pc-4 neumatic tube(the top part of the hotend that acts as a brake for the pfte tube. Thats how google seems to call it) but idk know enough to say if that is normal or Im doing something wrong so I added pic related.

Should I get a new pfte and pc-4 then?

>>1905110
also the spool specifies 230 to 250 and of course the Bowden tube melts around 250 so I have it at 240 so it's right in the middle while still having a safe zone for the tube. I tried 215 which is the default Cura petg temperature but I couldn't get it to stick for shit. 220 and 225 where better but I just said fuck it and stuck with 240 because it was the most reliable and in theory at a higher temperature would provide better layer Fusion at the cause of stringing.

I've bought an ender 3 pro last week and everything was going great.
Last print I did, it stopped extruding mid-print. And now I have to actively push the filament into the printer for it to continue.
What's the thing where you put the filament called? It seems to not do its job properly anymore. Do I need to replace it already?

>>1905219
> stopped extruding mid-print
> I have to actively push the filament into the printer for it to continue.
Does the printer stops all motors? Or just the extruder?

I have found that the microSD card the printer comes with it's quite bad and can create such stoppages out of nowhere(or if the files did not copy correctly stop in mid print too).

>>1905219
Is the extruder motor turning? The firmware expects the extruder temp to be sufficiently high.
Try heating up the extruder to temp and then spinning the extruder motor using the front panel.

>>1905215
ah yes I too like to introduce unnecessary complication and chance of randomly changing variables to throw any sense of rigidity and repeatability out the window

>>1905197
huh, never seen that part of the tube get damaged before. Might as well take the opportunity to upgrade to Capricorn tube, better fittings and a cinch ring or whatever it's called that helps clamp the tube in place inside the heat brake reducing the chance of it lifting off where is bottoms out in there. Luckily it's all extremely cheap, all that would probably run you 15 or 20 bucks Max.

>>190523
Everything except the extruder works my printer moved on all 3 axis for 2h30 before I realized it wasn't laying any plastic
>>1905238
I see it turning but it doesn't push the filament
>extruder temp
There's an option for that? I thought we could only control the bed and nozzle temp

>>1905243
Is your extruder gripping your filament? It sounds like it’s not gripping your filament

>>1905197
This is a known issue with ender 3, you have to put little clips into the bowden tube connectors to always keep tension on them otherwise the movement of the tube makes it come loose from the hot end. If the tube is not in perfect contact with the nozzle in the hot end then a gap forms which fills up with molten plastic and jams the filament from feeding like in the picture here >>1904135

I don't know why they still ship printers without these little clips or instructions to make them, it takes like 2 minutes to print them.

Your bowden tube is pretty damaged so you might as well replace it with capricorn tubing or just flip it around so the damaged end goes into the extruder instead of the hotend.

>>1905246
I removed the filament in the tube and saw some grip marks along the length of the filament.
Can I tighten it?

>>1905242
>>1905250

Ah well thanks to both. I did not know that for sure.

So, the way I understand it works is that I print a small spacer(If I print it as I see it in m y quick search in thingiverse wouldn't it melt?), and cut the part of the pfte that goes just below the PC-4. Then I put the spacer in between and tighten it, so that way there is always pressure below and no gaps form. Right?

>>1905197
blue capricorn tubing ftw
i had my ender for 8 months before the tubing went like that, i replaced the hot end with a mcroswiss at the same time i changed the tubing

>>1905243
>I see it turning but it doesn't push the filament
It might be clogged. Try to dissasemble the hotend and see if there is any plastic between the nozzle and pfte tube, or if there are any fragments of plastic in the pfte tube.

Also, don't do it like it like me. Heat the extruder first and then extract the filament..

>>1905243
>>1905265
I'm an absolute retard. Upon closer inspection, a part of the extruder somehow moved

>>1905267
good eye, fixxxerup

>>1905268
The screws wouldn't turn...
Nothing a hammer can't fix

>FDM problems
>meanwhile in chad resin land throwing out prints left and right straight out of the box

>>1905289
>falls off build plate 30 hours into a 44 hour print for a 20mm3 object in your path

>>1905250
>I don't know why they still ship printers without these little clips
mine came with them, plain ol ender 3 pro from scamazon

>>1905263
no the spacer goes on the top of the heat brake under the fitting which is going to be the coolest part. none of the heat brake should be hot enough to melt your plastic, if thats the case you have other issues. the way it works to my understanding is that when its compressed by the fitting theres nowhere for it to go because its surrounded on all sides by metal so it expands into the center and squeezes on the tube, holding it in place.

>>1905267
That plastic extruder will also eventually break. Order a metal one or print a new one before that happens.

>>1905291
>photon
>not a chad epax

>>1905289
>>1905291
>tfw completely got rid of my fdm printer
Shit was so annoying.

>>1905291
>>1905304
Does anyone use their resin printers for anything other than fucking toys and figurines?

What is this called, so I know what to search for. Layer shift? The overhang collapses or something like that. No, I will not print slower.

>>1905309
judging from this thread, no.

>>1905309
theyre not big enough for anything else

>>1905309
>so fucking poor that you use your fdm to design "functional" parts instead of just buying something actually sturdy and functional

>>1904921
>them
you realize this coomer crossposts his shitty paints to /wip/ and /3dpg/ and probably every other semi-relevant board?

Anyone have good sources for fastener design and examples? Came up with pic related and want more ideas for curved surfaces.

>>1905219
I was getting this with click click click from the extruder trying to push the filament ahead. I had to cold pull some nylon to clear the nozzle. The other symptom was some serious under extrusion (model turned into very thin spaghetti)

>>1905236
I found this also on my machine, just randomly the gcode will be corrupt and the head will just stop in place mid print and melt that point as the head cools without further instructions.

>>1905317
>such an imbecile you cannot see a better way of doing things than big box store hardware purchases

>>1905325
>thinking your corn plastic will hold up for any rigorous real world use

>>1905317
says the /toy/boy who cant afford all of his favorite funkoPOP!™ figurines so he has to print them (at 1/16 scale of course)

>>1905328
You can make guns with it, so I think it's safe to say it has at least a few practical applications.

This fucking thread has devolved into grade school level squabbling

>>1905309
Nothing that I'm allowed to post in this thread, but yes

how much louder are linear rails/rods? are they a worth the hassle over rubber rollers?

>>1903582
beautiful deck anon. do you work on it yourself? i'm working on a pioneer ct-f1000 rn and it's a pain in the ass. i can't image working on a reel to reel

>>1905309
No

>>1905328
>Thinking you can just casually walk into any Walmart to purchase your dragon dildos

>>1905354
Just as planned

>>1905317
>not making $5 prototypes instead of spending $1500 on a machine shop to make it
k

>>1905328
what is petg, nylon, polycarbonate? you know, the materials that are used in injection molding?

>>1905387
>do you work on it yourself?
thanks and yes.
Oh this thing is a mechatronic beautiful disaster. It has about 5 motors, multiple solenoids, light barriers and about 15 pcb's total going from motor control to analog op amp wizardry. I counted 10+ internal pots to adjust shit. They are all crusty but I'm also scared to replace them.

>pioneer ct-f1000
sex on a stick! Good luck anon. I'm also lookin for a sexy tape deck, but after I'm done with the reel to reel.

>>1905417
>made in loosely fused layers
>usable

kek

>>1905420
>clothing
>made in loosely fused layers
>usable

Best option for octoprint on the cheap? Fuck giving raspberry pi money.

>>1905319
Good topic. I have no idea

>>1905427
Why do you not want to give money to raspberry pi?

>>1905431
Because they virtue signal and I don't support child molesters.

>>1905434
>>/pol/

>>1905441
>>/Suicide/

>>1905453
>actively being a polcel
>cucking yourself

you've genocided yourself

>>1905456
>>>/reddit/

>>1905456
You will never be a real woman or white. No matter how many nights you cry yourself to sleep you will never know who your father is. We know can't afford a printer and are just here to pretend you have one.

>>1905434
Good reason. Why not buy a chink clone of raspberry pi?

4Chan is pozzed now. I miss the old days.

>>1905319
I'm in the same boat, I have nothing besides what comes out of my brain. At some point I want to test the minimal dimensions for such joints, like tabs that are only a couple of layers thick, etc.

>>1901760
eSun PLA+ or Anycubic PLA, both on Amazon, the eSun is cheaper usually.

Gotta say, this inland pla prints better than the hatchbox I had.

>>1904864
>silencer

>>1905029
>>1905032
try looking up salmon skin and fixes for it

>>1905193
same. too dangerous cuz rona.

>>1905516
Yes, silencer. The term the guy who invented it used. The term virtually everyone outside of the gun autist community uses. Sperging out over clips is one thing, but "silencer" is a perfectly valid term.

>>1905431
made in china

>>1905309
I've noticed that the more popular resin printers become the more dolls and figurines appear in the most popular page of thingiverse.

New Thread
>>1905558

>>1905535
The guy who made GIF says it was pronounced Jif, how ever everyone and their mother calls it gif. Just because he made it doesn't mean he's correct.

>>1905559
2soon.jpeg

>>1905504
I actually really like this stuff it prints very well and there is a micro center like 30 min from here

>>1905700
How do you like the pla+ ?

wanhao duplicator i3 vs Prusa?