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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 71 KB, 626x700, Water Heater 002.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1872631 No.1872631 [Reply] [Original]

Installed a new water heater. I have the tiniest leak imaginable. If you look at the representative pic,at the joint just above the cold water union a drop of water will bead up instantly and just sit there. If I wipe away, it comes back immediately. I left it for half an hour and it turned into about two drops worth just hanging on that lip but not dripping down. Any options other than disconnecting, moving the unit, desoldering and trying again? Do you think JB Weld would work? Can I drain the water below the joint and try to reflow or would it damage the water heater nipple or o-ring in the dielectric union?

>> No.1872634

>>1872631
heh, nipple.

>> No.1872637

Cut the line, put a Shark Bite on there and a flexible hose like you should have done the first time you cheap son of a bitch.

>> No.1872638

>>1872631
drain the water, hairdryer the joint, superglue. done

>> No.1872640

>>1872637

Best I could tell IL code won't allow it. I do want to sell this house someday. Low-key there's a sharkbite behind my wall for my showerhead line tho. Pls don't tell the cops.

>> No.1872643

>>1872638

Interesting. Just might have to try that.

>> No.1872677

Drain the joint and apply flux where it’s leaking. Hit it with some heat and work some solder into the joint where it’s leaking. Let cool, refill.

>> No.1872714

>>1872631
>disconnecting, moving the unit, desoldering and trying again?
Honestly, how long would that take you? If it was me, I'd just resolder it and get it right.

>> No.1872743

>>1872677
This

>> No.1872937

>>1872631
>Can I drain the water below the joint and try to reflow or would it damage the water heater nipple or o-ring in the dielectric union?
It would most definately damage the O ring, You'd have to disconnect the O-ring and coupling.

>> No.1873002

>>1872631
You should have a shutoff on the cold water side going to a male hose fitting. Then you run a hose to the water heater.

The hot side doesnt need a shutoff, but also needs a male hose fitting.

>> No.1873006

>>1872631
Cut the supply like and unscrew the leaky pipe from the heater, solder a male NPT sweat adapter onto the cut supply line, wrap the threads with a few wraps of teflon tape, and connect the tank with a flex hose.

>> No.1873026

>>1872631
Drain it and work flux into the leak with a tiny brush or something. Then soldier in that spot. If the leak continues, you have to take it off, sand the everloving piss out of it, and then try again. Pulling it apart can be a real pain in the ass sometimes and you risk bending it, though.

>> No.1873124

>>1872640
IL code allows for sharkbites. Get you a brass nipple that can take cpvc and sharkbite to the copper line with a short cpvc line between them.

>> No.1873129

>>1873124
Also Teflon tape and pipe dope are your friends. I don't know the actual name of it but it's blue shit in a can you brush on. Supposed to seal threads and make it less of a pain to get off on the future.

>> No.1873146

>>1872677
dubs confirms.
we can't tell the whole story from the picture, but that joint looks pretty good IMO. flux it and heat it and it should do the job.

>> No.1873194

>>1872631
wtf is that? thats nigger work. i was in the middle of explaining what you could do just typing that shit up and i decided to get really specific and look at the red arrow closer.

you got 3 different metals in 1 connection it looks like copper to brass then steel . wtf is that you faggot? you shouldnt hit that with a torch the metals expand at different rates so your going to have to unhook that shit. the water heater should have a copper pipe coming out of it wtf is that a cheap mexican one? you need to strangle and sodomize the people at lowes or homedepot that was bought from

you wont ever have a leak proof connection thats up to code. you have to sodler the copper and the bras expands at a different rate and when it cools its not going to be perfect for long

go get a soldering iron and just put a blob of silver solder for plumbing on it on the leak. if you hit it with a torch all the metal gets real hot and the silver solder wicks up the metal mostly and the metal will expand more . the sodlering iron is more concentrated and will just allow for a blob of solder to connect to solder on the bras and copper

>> No.1873218

>>1872631
You could just do nothing. If it is a super small leak eventually the minerals being deposited from the water will seal it up for you. Had a line going into my garage. Barely leaked, leaked outdoors, got lazy about fixing, it sealed itself.

>> No.1873231

>>1872637
>non metallic water line within 18" of a water heater
whew lad

>> No.1873272

>>1873129
>pipe dope/teflon tape a washer sealed connection.
Wew lad. You are totes a good plumber

>> No.1873375

>>1873194

That's a standard dielectric union for water heaters. Up to code. The difference in metals do not matter. The copper pipe is soldered to the brass sleeve, just like copper pipes are soldered to brass valves. They don't make copper valves.

The brass sleeve is separated from the steel fitting with a rubber o-ring and plastic ring so there is no contact. Lastly, you want a steel fitting because all after heater nipples are steel. Nigger.

>> No.1873387

>>1872638
>superglue
Would the toxicity of the superglue be a problem?

>> No.1873408

>>1873387
just get some crystals of hard water and slowly place them at the leak. They'll slowly dissolve and block up that wet opening. No warranty defaulting and no laws and licensing issues.

>> No.1873572

>>1873194
soldering iron? I was with you for most of this post but you made the record scratch for me. Look this guy has to disconnect this jack-leg bullshit, and resolder that joint properly with a torch at the very least. Copper to Copper, unless you want to braze that shit on there instead and well, that's some next level jack-leggery I'm not gonna help you with.

>> No.1873575

>>1873375
That may be the case, but he still didn't solder it properly and needs to redo that shit.

>> No.1873983

>>1872631
1. drain all water
2. redo the bad solder job
3. connect air compressor to the piping and check for leaks
4. resolder more possible leaks
5. only reconnect and refill if all leaks are gone and you're certain of that
don't try to weasel your way out of this, you know what has to be done and not doing the right thing will come back to bite you.
do it right.

>> No.1874239

>>1873983
you suck at soldering
buy some oatey 95 flux w tin in the paste
desolder, clean very well and resolder with this and silver solder
remember to heat the fitting not the pipe, bend off 1/2 in of solder to make sure enough goes into the joint.

>> No.1874381

>>1874239
>silver solder

Now we’re brazing 1/2” domestic water?

>> No.1874447

>>1874381
He probably thinks the lead free plumbing solder means silver.

>> No.1874465

>>1874381
Not him, but Stay Brite makes a silver solder
Also I'm pretty sure since the pipe has all that solder on it you don't have to worry about getting a tinned flux.

>> No.1874494

>>1874447
In Europe it means copper-tin or tin-silver. We don't have 95/5 here, because antimony is just as bad as lead.

>> No.1874514

>>1874494
>antimony is just as bad as lead
No it isn't, and neither are particularly bad in the first place.

>> No.1874572

>>1874514
I find it funny, because there are a lot of plumbing in Europe is still fucking lead

>> No.1874574
File: 69 KB, 828x805, 1595450629203.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1874574

I have a house that's on septic. We just had a massive plumbing job where all the cast iron was replaced with pvc. I'm concerned because now the septic pools in our back yard and while the bathroom tub and sink drains fine, the kitchen sink doesn't drain at all. It's connected to our dishwasher and it fills up and flows into the kitchen. I've snaked the line and it's still not draining. Wut do?

>> No.1874585

>>1874574
>Wut do?

Seriously, take a bunch of decent photos and make a new thread so we can focus and decide how hard a /diy/ project it is, and whether you need to hire bubba and his mexicans.

>> No.1875033

>>1874574
Around here a lot of older homes have a separate drywell for the kitchen. It could be that when the company came out to do the work, they accidentally dug through or disconnected the kitchen line from the drywell, or it could be a coincidence and the drywell is saturated/shot and needs to be replaced, or the kitchen drain just hooked up to the main tank. How long ago was the work done, and how long ago did the issues start in the kitchen? Most reputable companies after completing a big project would be more than happy to come out and take a look to make sure they didn’t make a mistake.

>> No.1875393

>>1872631
Jesus christ just disconnect it and resolder it like you should have when you found it.

>> No.1875398
File: 43 KB, 350x602, 1k98465i143674i61684r6879143651a4646.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1875398

>>1872677
this. I did it on a 1 1/4" copper radiator joint 3 years ago, still holding strong knock on wood.

>> No.1875794

>>1873387
No. Although it would not be entirely correct to call it non-toxic, it is, to all intents and purposes. Unless you plan on eating a lot. You shouldn't do that, but not because it'll poison you.

>> No.1876213

Why don't people use hoses? They don't cost much and replacing the water heater is way easier

>> No.1876291

>>1876213
Hoses burst. That’s why washing machines should be in unfinished basements next to the floor drain. You’re supposed to turn off the valves after each use but no one does this.

>> No.1876370

>>1876213
Hoses are spec in california so your water heaters doesnt destroy the plumbing every time there's a little shimmy