/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Would it be feasible to print a completed assembly like this with functioning joints without any further assembly?

I have a part I want to have a nice, concentric infill on the top face. However, concentric infill looks like absolute ass - look at those huge gaps in 3/4 of those faces. Any recommendations on how to fix this?

>>1862414
I know it's possible to do because if I set the amount of infills to completely fill the model, it gap-fills the top faces, but I can't force it to do that without, again, making the part completely solid infill layers.

>>1862413
Yes.

>>1862414
>>1862415
I'm a newbie but the only thing I can think of adjusting is extrusion width

Depends on scale and use. No, you can't 3D print your own road spikes.

>>1862484
reduce line width

>>1862410
I just had deja vu with that OP photo, I think one of these things was printed before

>>1862502
>>1862484
>>1862414
>>1862415
you can increase line width too, put it into meshmixer and measure the distance between the two lines and chose a number that's a factor

>>1862515
Adjusting line width would fuck up other things. Note how not all the surfaces have this issue and how some of them fill just fine. I can't adjust the size of any of those members and nothing factors in nicely.

>>1862516
no it wont, as long as its within the printable range it will be adjusted automatically

>>1862516
adjusting line width is one of the safest settings you can do, the only effect is print times and top surface layer details, both of which are lost in organic models. you get to choose between layer adhesion strength or small details without any major quality drawbacks.

the needle nozzles are here, the .2 nozzle is fucking tiny. I'll try a super tiny benchy first before a nonplanar mask and the dual color keycap
make sure to buy the wrench or you wont be able to install.

>>1861595
>Does it matter who I buy tpu from?

TPU filaments differ in hardness pretty much.

>>1862546
infill also affects the overall hardness, that varishore stuff seems fascinating. 3d printed shoe services are dumb but the plastic tech is cool

>>1862415
cant you use the support blocker addon in cure to do things like have specific infill inside the box, might be able to cover the top fre layers in a nosupport box and change it to infill 100% just for the top

>>1862563
Looks like that was the trick, thanks anon; I made custom geometry that's the thickness of a couple of layers and set it to make more perimeters at the height of the misbehaving area, and that fixed it.

does anyone else get anxiety at the thought of updating cura?

I can't take loosing all my settings again

>>1862584
I've stopped using Cura altogether after the second time it killed all my settings (I even exported and backed them up after the first time but newer versions can't import them) that I've been fine-tuning for years.

>>1862516
>note how not all the surfaces have this issue and how some of them fill just fine
thats the result of the slicer not portraying reality
If the preview shows gaps that are closed on the part you really are extruding too much and use the flow rate to cover up failures.
thats exactly the reason why your printed holes are likely smaller than in the model and outer dimensions are over

>>1862585
>brand new printer, first one, knockoff clone of something so no profiles available
>spend months dailing in all the settings, really nice prints
>first time updating, surely it will keep all these nice settings right
>wrong

>save gcode in cura
>go to printer
>starts doing some weird overlapping skirt as if the belt is absolutley fucked, lines all voer the place
>reslice the gcode
>works fine

>>1862410
>>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 4-7-2020]
>Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro

What if I don't want the Ender 3 because it's bowden?
What's a good printer with a directly driven extruder near that price range?
I want to print in TPU, but I heard its easier to print with a direct drive extruder and not bowden.

>slice file in cura
>for some fucking bizzare reason one of the layers is moved from line 100 to line 0
>still in sequence
If I ran this code do you think it will destroy the print and bury the nozzle into it when it gets to layer 100?

>>1862609
whatever you put a not knockoff titan aero on by yourself

>>1862584
there is no point in updating

>try and add custom end gcode to print on cura
>instead of doing what I want it finishes the print then buries the nozzle directly back down into it, destroying the print and caking the nozzle in shit

>>1862614
Option A: I would recommend you throw away your printer because you have fiddled with your settings and messed up your slicer and don't know what you are doing.
Option B:A temporally solution would be to either move the layer geode to its rightful place or delete it as one layer will not make a difference if you are printing with PLA with good nozzle height and a low layer height. You can then figure out the reason for this issue for your next print, like reinstalling your slicer.

I would recommend Option A

>>1862626
It fixes itself if I just reslice it though, it just does it to every 100 prints or so for some reason

>>1862626
oh wow, were you born with slicer settings already in your brain? pretty impressive big brain boi

>>1862609
I print TPU just fine with capricorn tubing, but its high shore (not ninjaflex) and my printer uses a geared extruder. qiditech supposedly can print flexibles well, but that might be on some dual extrusion models (one is a high temp nozzle, the other is a flex compatible)

>>1862671
Qidis use direct extrusion (the tube on top just guides the filament to the extruder).

>>1862609
I'm not keeping up with printer market so no model recommendations from my side.
But whatever printer you choose, double check before buying how long is the gap between extruder gears and hotend / bowden tube mouth.
If you want to print TPU, then this distance must be very short. If it's sufficient for the filament to bend, then TPU will flex at that place and you'll not be able to print.
For my no-name TPU any gap longer than 2mm causes the filament to bend to a side and then instead of being pushed into the hotend it either jams or gets pushed into the open.

>>1862678
right and the x1 is ~$270 on amazon, so if you wanna print flexibles on a budget, just look at the slightly higher price. an A8 might print flexibles marginally better than an ender 3 but it's a far shittier machine and shouldnt be put in the OP for decint <$250 machines .

I bought recently extra a small roll of PMMA (acrylic glass) filament to be eligible for a free shipping.
I'll soon test it on a treeforg (or a benchy), and I'm wondering if there are any parts / printer tests that are designed / perform better with PMMA?
Also, I'd welcome any hints for printing PMMA before I calibrate temperatures, retractions etc.

Is there any way to get patreon models for resin printing? Especially Artisan Guild stuff?

>>1862720
Pay with money.

>>1862735
As far as I can find it, even if I pay, I can only get those month's models. I'm looking for other models though, like their beholder.

>>1862679
this is a garbage extruder for flex

>>1862742
try reaching out directly? I'm sure they'd provide a model or two, or a low cost per back-model. worth a try.

>>1862773
Nvm, found it. Turns out they have all their models up on myminifactory for a fuckton of money

>>1862720
Unironically yiff.party
And so that you don't have to wade through all the furfag porn, here's a direct link to artisan guild stuff: https://yiff.party/patreon/3631758

>>1862584
thanks doc

>>1862786
(Search the archives mega/discord links show up for these occasionally.)

>>1862679
>*laughs in Hemera*

>>1862806
too bad the non porn patreons never get fucking updated. This one is good too https://yiff.party/patreon/26972397 but has the same problem

>>1862895
they planned on deleting the non-porn/furry/ASMR archives for storage cost I thought

>>1862898
There were a bunch of polls and voting shit about that awhile ago but as long as people showed interest in the page it didn't get whacked I think.
Also does anyone know where I can find files for details and accessories for 1/35 tanks and other models like pic related or am I fucked and going to have to try modeling stuff like this myself? Cause I'm not going to pay a boomer that casts sandbags and boxes twice a year 50 bucks.

>>1862915
you should learn how to convert 3dcg models to something printable. then just take some sketchfab models or find whatever accessorized tank you want and print those. It takes some effort but I can post my automated "make printable" tool comparison if you wanna try just letting a computer do it.
pic related is from some mobile game, anime or something but there are parts you can find that should work with your specific models with little editing. ask the ninjaripper disco rd if you need help getting PUBLIC and FREE TO MODIFY/PRINT 3d models off there.
I printed a few tank models comparing the real world effects of automatic vs edited models for 3d printing, its the minor details like gears in the treads that get lost in the conversion usually.

>>1862928
Fair enough, I already have a backlog of models I've totally legally acquired through ninjaripper that I need to go through and fix but I was just looking for the easy way out like the lazy shit I am since I just needed stowage rather than a whole tonk

>>1862486
I think you could, what prevents it? I think it'd be multiple batches to get enough length, but it's entirely doable. Probably single use only also.

>>1862606
You forgot to untick the vase mode

I am a complete and total failure and am simply incapable of doing anything right.

Does anyone live in South West Florida and want to come fix my printer? I bought a new board since every other attempt to update firmware on the original has ran into my failure. Now I can't get the firmware to update following a video 1:1, the new screen cable won't stay in even after gluing it in, the laptop I spent way too much money on doesn't actually supply the required 5V to power anything worth plugging in, and I don't even want to think how I'm going to fuck it up if I ever get this put back together than start trying to print.

I'll suck your dick, pay you, take you out to dinner, whatever you want. I just want this to be over.

Why can I never see support marks on other peoples prints. Mine are always marked up like crazy with little circles everywhere. Like in the pic I don't really see a single one.

>>1862988
Print orientation and photo angle. The other side might be marred as fuck but you'll never see it because they are hidden by the angle.

>>1862993
That person posted several more shots where you can see under it and everything. That's just one example though. If I look up completed resin prints I see so many that look like they're fucking injection molded and I just don't get it.

>>1862987
for $50 ill drop ship you a preconf ender 3 board off amazon

>>1863001
try a different support setting program

Hypothetically say I wanted to start making minis for a tabletop rpg but want relatively nice minis and have zero experience

What price range am I looking at to get started and what kind of 3D printer should I be looking at?

>>1862600
>doesn't save settings
>blames software
Just zoomer things

>>1863001
Sharp blade and steady hand, I guess. If you use nippers/flush cutters you're more likely to leave pockmarks.

>>1863020
~$230-3,500. Anycubic Photon and comparable at the low end, and Form 3 at the high end.

The most important thing is if you know how to actually model the minis, though.

>>1862414
Fill tiny gaps

>>1862987
>red state
die of COVID

>>1862600
memory is a wonderful skill, if you carefully set something, you remember it. I remember my fucking ideal motor currents after 4 years, and all my settings are saved in text files.

Would a volcano be a good idea to install in place of the default e3 hotend?

>>1863049
For what?

>>1863049
dont call it the e3, e3d is too similar
I see no use for an ender's build size

>>1862988
Looks like he printed pieces separately. Likely hidden under the seams

hey guys can you help me get this heating element out of my hot end? fucker broke right at the base of the wire so I couldn't repair it.

got a replacement but it's jammed tight and i don't have anything like a hydraulic press to knock it out. is there a trick to it? cause at this point im tempted to just get another hot end entirely.

printer is a monoprice mini select v3, it was my first one and i've moved on to ender 3's but id still like to get this guy functional again

Ehehehe

>>1863090
I was more wondering about the benefits that would come with the higher max temp and the all metal design

I replaced my Ender 3 Pro board with the BIGTREETECH SKR E3 DIP V1.1 32Bit Control Board and installed their precompiled firmware for the stepper drivers, and got everything seemingly running. Except for whenever I try to issue any command related to automatic bed leveling I get an "unknown command M280 p0 s###" (changes with each command) error on screen and nothing happens.

I've referenced the ever loving shit out of both schematics and I'm positive I got the Ground/Live/Signal wires of my the BLTouch 3.1 in the correct orientation, and whenever I power it on the BLTouch does it's little startup test of extending-retracting a few times so I don't think I did it wrong and burned it out.

I'm guessing I just have to bite the bullet and go through configuring my own firmware?

>>1863124
none, litirally.
you can get both those and still get retractions with a standard 3d. if you wanna waste money, get a mosquito, the design is great and the new cheap version performs better than the official v6 for less.

>>1862988
How big is that figure, when will printed mini's be as detailed as authentic games workshop stuff?

Anyone know how to fix that damn problem on the CR10 where the Z axis will only stutter and go down and not up?

I've tries loosening/tightening the eccentric nuts. I've tried checking the bolts on the T nut. I tried contacting creality and their technicians is telling me to do all these things that aren't damn helping.

>>1863110
heat it up with a torch or something but at worst a new block is not very expensive

Help i am retarded. Whats the issue with my printer? The top looks thin and off, but feels solid.

>>1863245
Probably underextruding, try calibrating your flow rate.

>>1863281
On the sides it has a bit that hangs off the Y, and also stringing after the print is done. But I will test extrusion tomorrow

>>1863245
>>1863298
Probably clog

If I am having issues with enamel spray primer not setting and staying tacky on my resin printed models is this caused by not fully post curing my resin or something else? I am using the anycubic eco veg based resin.

>Take someone's advice and get an SKR E3 DIP V1.1
>Comes with TMC2209 drivers
>Fail at firmware for days
>Suddenly one compiles successfully
>Now the end stop switches literally do not work

Why the fuck does everything suck?

>>1863326
Probably. Drop your piece in a glass of water and leave it out in the sun for a day.

>>1863337
are the NC or NO switches anon

>>1863343
Whatever came with the Ender 3 Pro I'm """upgrading""" from.

Regardless, you're saying I should try and find if there's an endstop invert line since they aren't working the way they are now, right?

>>1863344
yep, or a board revision line possibly

>>1863346
Inverted X min just caused it to stop as soon as it moved.
X max didn't do anything, but that's probably because I don't have any max end stops.

It seems the stepper drivers (TMC2209) that were supplied with my board are fucking incompatible with the board (SKR E3 DIP V1.1) and that a diagnostic pin needs to be cut. Unfortunately most of the pages detailing this are on github which appears to be down right now.

>>1863351
oh those need to have a pin snipped

>>1863351
IDK wht the fuck is wrong with github but there should be a config video for the ender 3 that can help

>>1863351
https://youtu.be/l0nfRrV6ggU

>>1863352
>>1863356
While I'm ripping these annoying as fuck pieces of shit stepper drivers off for, hopefully, the last time, what fucking mode should I be setting the jumpers for?

>STEP/DIR mode
>SPI mode
>UART mode

For stock Ender 3 Pro motors? I think I've read and watched guides that each said something different.

>>1863359
this guy gives an explanation for the 2208 https://www.instructables.com/id/UART-This-Serial-Control-of-Stepper-Motors-With-th/

>>1863359
the 2209 doesnt have SPI mode so set it to UART to unlock most of the additional features

Looking at this thread... I'll never complain about relevelling and cleaning my resin printer again.

Damn.

>>1863382
Switching the main board isn't exactly a daily routine maintenance for FDM. I've been printing happily without problems with my stock Ender 3 Pro since it came out. Only mods I have are the printed ones.

>>1863343
>>1863346
>>1863352
>>1863356
>>1863358
>>1863362
>>1863367
I'd like to thank you all for helping a big fat retard in finally getting his printer actually running again.

>>1863382
The universe is literally against me and makes everyday things a massive struggle for me. For example, driving in to work I will catch every single red light without fail, unless I have something I want to do while stopped at a red light, like say read a text message, then I'll get greens all the way to work just so I can't have those few seconds at a red light.

So don't look to my experiences as the average FDM printer, I'm just an unlucky idiot that no one has decided to kill yet.

Is the only way to get a truly level coat of paint to use an airbrush? Even if I water down my acrylics like crazy the finishes never really come out that smooth.

>>1862609
Sovol SV01. Set up, level, print TPU.

>>1863421
are you using a filler primer coat?

>>1862410
Hey guys, just ordered a 3d printer so I guess I'm one of you now haha. One question: what do I print?

>>1863421
I'm going to say it depends but no it shouldn't be. Airbrush can also fuck with some paint finishes, certain gloss paints will come out matt-esque.

>>1863484
benchy first, dont change any settings
someone here is collecting these for a compilation

>>1863488
Oh okay, my joke post was actually useful.

This is my first time trying to print more exotic filaments, and until now the filament setting presets in PrusaSlicer have served me well so I never had to fuck with the extrusion speeds and whatnot. Now that I have to make my own user defined settings, I'm getting super confused as to how to change the print speed.

In PrusaSlicer, in the filament setting presets you can determine the max volumetric speed in mm^3/s. I've done tests with this value at 10, 8, even 3 to no effect on the print speed in real life. Wtf does this setting even do?

To add to the confusion, I checked the existing presets for generic materials like PLA and ABS, and despite ABS having a max volumetric speed setting LOWER than PLA, for whatever reason print time is in fact FASTER than with PLA. Can anyone please enlighten me on this subject?

>>1863510
you'e not printing volumetric so it does absolutely nothing

>>1863512
Max volumetric speed is the flow rate of filament, it has nothing to do with volumetric printing

>>1863340
okay I will give this a try. Thanks for the input

That's some fucking weird ass shit that changing a driver chip can cause mechanical motors to not make noise.

>>1863542
Not if you even the most minimal understanding of how shit works.

>>1863547
I don't. I can't imagine how changing how the electrical signal is delivered to a mechanical motor causing it to move the same load the same distance can make that movement not make noise.

>>1863542
https://youtu.be/Nhy6g9wGHow
BLDCs are a 6 "step" stepper motors in design, vid gives an explanation on some of the basic software controls done in trinamic drivers

I've had a Photon for several years (so it's probably the old one, considering the new boards haven't been around for very long) and I've read that they added Anti Aliasing with the 4.2.17 Firmware.
I've never had any problems with the printer and people always said that to not upgrade if there aren't any problems. I'm curious, is the AA a significant improvement and warrants upgrading? I've so, I've read that you should go to 4.2.18 and NOT 4.2.19, is that still true?

>>1863565
Read up on stepper motors and stop being retarded.

>>1863458
I've tried it before and in my experience fill primer fucking sucks. I can never get a smooth finish with it. Even after doing multiple coats and dry + wet sanding.
>>1863486
It's more of noticing brush strokes. It's only really prevalent on light colors too.

>>1863397
And a benchy after getting this pile of shit back together...

...and three attempts since the first two didn't work because filament tangle and hoping I had enough cut off from untangling.

Just basic bitch default Cura settings.

>>1863574

I wouldn't say it's a significant improvement, but if you can get it for free why not? My photon had an issue with the LCD screen not displaying an image and a firmware update fixed it. I'm using v4.2.18 right now, the Photonsters github says that v4.2.19 is buggy so better go with 18

>>1863628
you should get lin_advance tuned in, its one of the best higher level quality features for 32 bit printing, also, if you dont care about higher gcode files, increase(or is it decrease since its a smaller distance moved?) the gcode command resolution, it helps with printing on smaller nozzles/thin walls.

>>1863648
>if you dont care about higher gcode files, increase(or is it decrease since its a smaller distance moved?) the gcode command resolution

I fiddled with Cura and the default is 0.05, cranking that down to 0.01 and slicing resulted in an increase of 7kb (larger filament straightener) and a 356k decrease in the Benchy file.

What the fuck?

>>1862907
be careful with that one m8

>>1863665
weird, I downloaded a complex model and tried it again(scaled down figure), it seems like it only increases in size for complex models. I'm also printing with a 0.2/0.18mm walls so IDK if its a model size thing or a complexity thing.

>>1863606
>It's more of noticing brush strokes.
Try adding a little solvent, helps the flow and surface tension a bit.

>>1863606
>noticing brush strokes
Get better paints or thin more. If you're at the point where your paint is thin as can be and you're either barely coating the model or still notice streaks, your paint is bad. Properly thinned paint will still leave a reasonably thick layer without streaking. Lighter colours will always need more coats.

>>1862631
I read this in an asian voice. are you asian?

>>1863486
>certain gloss paints will come out matt-esque
only really if you spray it on too dry/light, but some light pigments (white) are chalky and need a bit of work to get right. airbrushes can't be beaten really if you have decent gear and the right technique.

>>1863175
reflash firmware

anyone got an stl for something like this? I do not know the english word for this, so its kinda hard looking it up on thingiverse

>>1864117
If you can explain to me what it does perhaps I can give you the english word because I haven't the fucking foggiest idea besides the title 'laddle'.

>>1864117
is that...................a long ping pong paddle with..........a bowl/light reflector on it?

>>1864119
Not him but this is for policemen to direct traffic and shit.

>>1864119
this >>1864123
Or for train conductors.

>>1864117
worst case, this would be very easy to model. cylinder for the handle, cylinder for the paddle(?), fillet the intersection, cylinder to glue the reflector to. easy first project

>>1862907
dio pls

why? I've looked at the pastebin but still can't figure it out am retard.
pla
hotend at 200

>>1864122
heh bet that was a toy grenade too

>>1862584
If your current version works there's no reason to upgrade. I'm still on 3.6.

>>1864122
Is that some kind of fleshlight with a grenade stuffed in it?

>>1864211
yes, with a wii light bar and taped on batteries

>>1864216
at least one of those batteries looks to be a large(-ish?) bullet or shell casing

>>1864241
oh just noticed that, its a fake image btw

>>1864248
It's from one of the "make an improvised bomb" joke threads after the crappy mail bomb hoaxes from a year or two ago.

>>1864117
train conductor paddle?

>>1864117
>>1864261
I was close. It's called a "train dispatch baton"

I've been browsing around and see lots of plans for gun parts, but I can't find specifically what I'm looking for. A full 3d printed gun out of plastic that slides and functions. Want to print some for a gun training course my neighbor runs. He's worried that some nigger might drop a real bullet in while in the class room.

Anyone seen any files for an endeavor like this? I just bought an ender 3 v2. And a bunch of flavors of pla+.

>>1864310

I should note, not for firing. Simply that you can load snapcaps, rack slide, safety, trigger discipline, and safely unloading a firearm.

Sorry, I don't own a 3D printer but did use an etsy service to print a miniature.
It has some print lines you can see when light hits it of and contact points on one side, is it safe to clean up or smooth out these things?

>>1864371
yeh, if its abs you can vaporsmooth, if its pure PLA its a bitch to sand and just using a filler primer will work, PLA+ sands well.
you're at more risk from pollen than sanding models as long as it's not PC or some exotic shit like in SLA prints(even those are inert and you can sand them just fine for small models). if you're doing a large model where you need a dremel to sand, a mask would be recommended.

>>1864377
It's a resin model so I'm guessing it's SLA. I've had some experience working with resin miniatures so if it's okay to do so I'll do what I do normally.
Thank you anon.

>>1864385
Ye it's basically resin that just happened to be deposited in layers. Technically a photopolymer resin but it's kinda just resin for most purposes, in particular sanding. Don't breathe in a ton of dust, and just do as you would when shaping or smoothing any other resin object.

If I get an AnyCubic Photon, and only use it outside, will I still have to worry about fumes or anything?

>>1864492
>uv curing resin
>outside
bad combo, but you wont have fume issues... although a fume extractor/hood would do just as fine...
use gloves!

>>1864310
check sketchfab
i found a completely modeled m1911,still working on converting the model for esay 3d printing

>>1864492
How so? I've only done my preliminary research. The area I would have the printer on would been shaded so I assumed its okay. I mostly can't keep it indoors because I don't want to harm my dog.

>>1864529
Meant to respond to>>1864518

>>1864529
Sunlight is pretty bright, you better have a lot of shade.

The recommended printer list is lacking, why is lulzbot still on there?

Also, is the Qidi Max / Plus any good?
I want an (enclosed is a plus) direct drive printer for under 1000 dollars.

>>1864529
then don't let your dog touch the resin without gloves, duh.

also if you're worried about UV curing shit prematurely, just only print outside at night. duh.

fucking jesus im trying to use blender to make a crappy little meatball man to print and it is fucking torture. nothing makes any sense or works the way I think it should

>>1864630
Welcome to 3D Modeling. I swear things I thought I understood stopped working the way I thought they did in the same project.

>>1864630
try meshmixer

>>1864643
>iktf

>>1864643
behold my beautiful son. it took me hours but he has taken shape.

this is more of a design question but you have two rectangular bricks in your CAD program of choice, say, and you need to connect flat surface A on brick A to flat surface B on brick B.

How do you connect them? Screw holes? Rectangular clip? Symmetric slide tracks? What is your piece to piece connection method of choice anons?

>inb4 glue them retard

>>1864651
it's not as awful as it was in my mind. I mean it's terrible but you'll get there anon.

>>1864657
Give me general tips my dude cause I need all the help i can get.

Im gonna fuck around with things till I can figure it out tho

>>1864658
I mean I'd do the legs and arms separately and use meshmixer to combine them to avoid that "meatwad walking" effect. I'd also roughen up the head a la a meatball and because it's easy. But what you really lack is refinement, which will come with skills with the tools, which will come with practice which you get by you know doing another one better. I mean this is like your first pinched together ashtray when you're five, there isn't a lot of advice apart from do another one.

>>1864655
Friction weld.

>>1864664
what do you mean do the legs and arms separatley. Ive been just wadding up clay tool to make the limbs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDHHsUkYiGc

has someone already posted this

>>1864778
yes

What's the maximum advisable infill for structural parts?

>>1864791
Yes
No
Maybe
100%
0% with the walls printed thicker than the object (concentric 100% infill shell)

>>1864778
they're already trying to do this in space

>>1864794
Isn't 100% infill inadvisable? Heard that it needs expansion room.

>>1864801
yeh I've never gone above 70%
if you need more infill density increase infill to at most 90% and increase line width

Have the S3D team all caught corona or something?

>>1864791
Exactly the amount that is needed

>>1864808
No, just the rest of the free alternatives all grew ahead of them and they don't know how to justify their pricing

>>1864808
Not like they provide any useful features anyway
Even if you don't pay the $150, does it really have anything worth muddling through that awful interface for?

>>1864817
I've found it gives me better quality prints.
Supports are nice and efficient but for small sections a lot of the time it just doesn't make them.
Manual supports are pretty good too.
Manual control of the nozzle wiping is nice too.
I could come up with a bigger list but it would also have shit that should be there too.

>>1864818
I still own a god licensed copy of 4.0.0 and have stopped using for 3 years

>>1864820
I was having issues with cura so I pirated 4.0.x and have been using it ever since. Probably 6mo now.

JoJo stone mask dude, did you print it from the chin up or from the back?
What supports did you use?

>>1864778
this guy has the right kind of autism

has anyone actually used these? still looks like a scam page.
https://youtu.be/6-1Ue0FFrHY

How far can ender 3 span?

>>1864851
Do you mean bridge? Depends on your cooling etc.

>>1864851
Why are you making a shipping container along with your brick walls?

>>1862410
I want to get something 3D printed in bulk. But I want each piece I print to vary slightly in form (remain the same weight, depth, length etc).
This should be possible without any additional cost to the manufacturer right?
How do I explain this to them so they'll give me a bulk discount and not screw me as if each piece requires a new mould or something?

>>1864914
>How do I explain this to them
Use your words and discuss it and come to an agreement.

>>1864916
words r hard :c
But more importantly they should already understand this because they're 3D printing companies. Am I just wrong about it not costing them more?

>>1864914
>>1864919
if you have the files, it's more or less the same to them. just about time & filament used.
you'd need to find a huuuuge printer farm to get a bulk discount, since they print to order and are likely saturated at any given point. they'd only bulk discount if they could put machines not in use to use for your order.
shop around I guess.

>>1864847
looks great for non-planar slicing. where are they?

>>1864921
See in my head I'm thinking exactly the same thing.
But maybe metal 3D printing is different... have you any experience in that or only home printing like myself?

>>1864921
https://www.nonplanar.xyz/nozzles?Collection=Single%20nozzles
post results, I'm using the airbrush needle hotend with surprisingly good results for normal printing
you gotta get the nozzle on tight or you'll ruin the tiny nozzle tho.

>>1864801
>Isn't 100% infill inadvisable? Heard that it needs expansion room.
Nah, load of BS that. You can easily go for 100% - but very little parts need it. If you want strong, stiff parts you design them with a strong, thick shell since it increases material away from any given bending centerline throughout the object - just how I-beams and such can be really strong yet relatively light. My recipe for strong FDM prints (apart from solid CAD designs):
>Big nozzle
>Big layers
>Low and slow printing (high temp, low speed, no fan if possible)
>Big shell (at least 1mm, but 2.4mm is great since you get 3 passes with a 0.8mm nozzle)
>20-30% infill
It all depend on the exterior (CAD) geometry, but I can stand on most stuff I've printed.

I am currently designing a challenge for first year engineering students at the uni I teach at, they have to 3D-print a bridge of sorts. No way in hell am I going to be beaten by a bunch of kids though, so in addition to the stuff listed above I have done exported a topological optimisation from SW (pic related) to Cura, and inside of the main body it will now print this optimised form as local 100% infill. If that fails to get proper results I'll be calling in a favor for some aluminium or titanium printing, I never specified it should be FDM after all :^)

>>1864925
For some further clarification, this is the bridge with fixturing (bottom), the punch we'll be using for testing (top), and yellow is their available workspace. The challenge is to print the strongest possible bridge without support material in less than 4 hours. Groups of students are graded by print time, material used and the strangth of their design, all relative to one another. If we can't do testing to the 'rona, I will just simulate them in SW.

>>1864655
glue

or magnets

>>1864923
>>1864921
I would imagine with how metal 3d printing is, you're buying the unused area around some main print. I think you have to talk to someone. My inkling is that if you're doing it in steel and don't have some especially high demand for it to be perfect perfect (like structurally) you could negotiate a decent discount because it just makes sense. In something like titanium you'll already have dental and osteo implants competing in that space for custom one off parts and I'd imagine they'd be less inclined to negotiate or switch anything up there.

is there any reason why smaller (0.2mm) nozzles have shittier undersides?
I've been printing with the needle(does not respond well to high cooling) and I can't get angles over 50 degrees without it looking like it was printed at 30
stringing has been delt with but this is the last setting I gotta dial in before staring nonplanar.

>>1864655
Patrician mountings incoming.
>Nub and hole that come together to prevent movement in Y/Z
>Two bolts to prevent movement in X
You could forgo the nub and hole if the surfaces need to be flat - but why would they need to be, if they're stuck against each other anyways? If you want to put them on the buildplate, you could make both sides a hole and print a key to go in between, you get extra good points if you print the key oversized and file it down for a tight fit.
This is my preferred method for connceting printed pieces, especially the six sided cutout for the is great if you print it a bit undersize and melt the net in with a soldering iron.

>>1864667
Friction stir welding is great too, I've saved a couple projects with that stuff.

>>1864935
Thanks big brain. You nailed it with the steel btw. I just want something shiny so women will buy it.

>>1864946
I'm printing with moved over settings (~80/100 print speed, .15 layer height, .2 width, outer wall first) that are perfect for my machine, but IDK I need to reduce the flow on the walls or if the maximum printable angle changes due to nozzle design.

Helo newfriens I finally completed my first print on my CR-10. What are some good calibration prints to really get my machine dialed in for PLA? My friend told me to do a heat tower to try to figure out the most optimal temperature my machine works with PLA filament. What are some other ones?

>>1864847
looks fucking retarded desu
thats a solid 2.5cm distance between heatblock interface and nozzle tip
It has all the disadvantages of a volcane but none of the advantage.
You kinda want high throughput in the extreme long (low temp) melt zone to prevent clogs, but you cant push a lot because you suck all the heat out of the tip region

>>1864925
I thought small layers bonded better

>>1864998
more layers = more places for shearing and delamination

>>1864998
Bigger layers means better heat retention and therefore better fusing of parts. Also this >>1865001.
On the other hand, in some cases where you avoid using a fan at all (because more heat = better fusing) you may overheat the part, reducing it into a blobby mess, so you cut that down by using smaller layers. There's so many variable influenced by layer height that neither answer is right, just... different. I prefer big layers, it seems to work well and cuts down on print time - because time is as much of a resource as material.

>>1864998
small layers are stronger in x-y, large layer height stronger in z

>>1865003
>small layers are stronger in x-y,
Why?

>>1864998
best way to get strong parts is get pure, quality material instead of chongching pla with shit additives and print 30° higher
for example i print 0.1mm layers pla at 215-220°C
i cannot break my prints without tools, but when i do testprints at for example 200°C i can snap delicate features with my fingers

>>1864670
so I mean make separate model of the leg. Individual pieces. Like sponge bob legs or GI joe if you broke the rubber band. Then you stick them together like you'd shove a bar of soap into a donut, as opposed to sculpting either the donut out of the soap piece, or the piece out of the donut. (meaning the legs are distinct pieces)

>>1864791
material choice >> infill strength

although as a general rule hollow objects are stronger than solid- e.g. a tube is stronger than a solid bar, so it would follow 50-70% infill is actually stronker than 100%. t. BSE engineering

>Print fails after 2.5 days, nozzle clogged or something
>Dissassemble Hotend, clean everything
>PTFE tube is brown and full of gooey stuff
>replace stock PTFE with Capricorn
>looks good
>Now my printer (Cr10 v2) constantly oozes.

WHERE DO I FUCK UP WRONG BROS

>>1864866
not him but shipping containers are a standard industrial terrain item in modern and later settings.

>>1864914
maybe you should explain what you want not how you think it should be accomplished. there is probably a better way to do whatever you actually want to do.

varying each piece is no different than each piece being unique, and if they understood what you're asking for they'd probably tell you to fuck off with your 600 individual unique pieces. also it's like almost literally the very reason to buy a 3D printer yourself- the sort of high man-hour low volume thing no company is going to want to fuck with.

>>1865013
>a hollow tube with the same is stiffer than a solid bar of equal length and surface area
t. mechanical engineer

And WTF is a BSE?

>>1864929
>glue
you MOTHERFUCKER

>>1864947
>>1864929
>magnets
why are suggestions mostly "add external hardware"? I mean you literally have the tools to 3D print anything, why is channels for screws, bolts or magnets (which also = glue) the perpetual suggestion? why add hardware when you can CAD hardware before printing?

>>1864947
>Friction stir welding
now that seems kind of based. is there a particular attachment you use to do this on PLA? is it doable with a fast hand drill and some coordination?

>>1865024
BS with enough Engineering credits to get a license. Literally a "Bachleor of Science in Engineering"

>>1865028
>why add hardware when you can CAD hardware before printing?
Because printing hardware isn't precise or effective enough in most cases to provide an easy, repeatable disassembly and reassembly.

>>1865028
>is there a particular attachment you use to do this on PLA?
2.85mm filament fits perfectly in a Dremel chuck.

>>1865030
Last time I checked the proper pronouns for that would be either BS or BSc (for Bachelor of Science) or BE or BEng (for Bachelor of Engineering). Or ing. (ingenieur), if you're from a based country like me.

>>1865018
your shitty hotend you hotty posting shithead
the cr10,ender series, and a tevos use the bowden PTFE tube as the liner insted of a separate part like the e3d clones
replace with an all metal/normal e3d clone if you had any common sense (be warned the long retracts in default ender/3r10 configs are not only unnecessary, but clog all metal hotends) but for a cheap baindaid solution print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831 and stop printing higher than 260c to avoid a "gooey" ptfe tube, you're releasing neurotoxins into your room.

>>1864992
the design is to be long and slim for nonplanar extrusion (large prints cant be nonplanar due to the hotend body hitting the nozze, so only ~5mm nonplanar regions are possible without an elongated hotend.
I agree tho, a modified design of the deltaprinter(brand) mini hotend is still the ideal, as the heater body is only slightly larger than a current e3d nozzle and an elongated/needle nozzle would give a nearly perfect design. Combined with a small carriage on a delta style printer and you could make stuff like masks in full nonplanar.

>>1865034
sorry deltaprintr(brand)

>>1865034
That makes sense, I printed ABS with high temps once which probably made the goo, but normally I stay at below 220.

Also the CR10 V2 has a different hotend, pic related. I also drew how far the PTFE goes.
Whats the best hotend to replace it with if I want to go Direct drive / keep it PTFE?

>>1865036
thats an e3d lite style, you can directly move to a clone

>>1865034
I just got a CR10 V1. Should I just use the default extruder to learn and then replace it once I've got more experience, or should I do it right away? I plan to print materials on the future that will require a better hot end that can get hotter.

>>1865045
it'll work fine for awhile, capricorn is smaller and slipperier, so its wholly incompatible with the design. I recommend printing the linked thingiverse thing if you see "oozing" up

fuck I messed up my pun
issues "oozing" up

>>1865004
More strands are stronger than less bigger strands. Like fibers in composites.

>>1865018
Do the hotend fix, idiot

>>1865036
if youre mainly printing pla, stay with the ptfe hotend
There is a reason they're the most common on stock chink printers
nearly idiot proof.

oh shit deltaprintr actually is making a mini v2

>>1865051
>More strands are stronger than less bigger strands.
[citation needed]

>>1865059
How about my material sciences engineering degree?
Read more books, dumdum.

>>1865064
Well what about MY material sciences engineering degree?
Quite serious though, I know fiber strands do this, and there are filaments with fibers, but I don't quite see how seperate extrusion paths (when properly fused) would not function as a single sheet. The main failure mode I've seen is between layers since the layers themselves cool down and adhesion is therefore marginal, but lines next to each other don't have this problem - which is clearly shown in a lot of datasheets for filaments that specificy X/Y and Z-direction for tests.

>>1865036
>that pic
Why can't these retards just make a proper heatsink instead of these big blocks with a few channels cut out

>>1865054
but for why

>>1865052
Thanks retard.
For other people who dont know what he's talking about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw

>>1865037
So how would buying the same hotend, but as ripoff version fix the problem? Shouldn't I switch to another hotend?

>same style
the e3d lite =/= e3d v6
the lite6 can be bought for 20$ officially because its a POS design

>>1864851
So how much does it cost in materials to print a container like that? I'm interested in getting an ender 3 for third party minis and terrain but not sure how much I'd even be saving by printing things myself.

>>1865143
pennies in plastic. it's more a question of your time.

>>1865136
>>1865138

why resin make brain tingle

>>1865138
>>1865147
Cheers, that really seems retarded now that I understand the difference.
Will the V6 fit in the same mount as the Lite?

Do these "genuine" parts really cost $100+ to manufacture with good QC, or is it a giant ripoff by hobbyist wankery? How come the only choices you get are between a $100 to $150 genuine article and a $30 chink clone, and nothing in-between?
Talking about stuff from e3d, bondtech, the like. Is it really impossible to clone them in good quality, with high tolerance and careful control, thus avoiding the dangers of buying a chink clone, without immediately quintupling the price of a chink clone?

>>1865155
you gotta look at aliexpress for some decent clone brands

>>1865158
Are there any which are good enough to qualify as "not chinkshit" - reliable, quality-controlled, manufactured to tolerance?
I've heard good things about, say, trianglelabs, but I've also heard that even they are liable to ship chinkshit garbage sometimes. That's exactly what I'm talking about - if you can manufacture chinkshit for $20-30, does it really cost an extra $80-120 per unit to ensure it's not chinkshit?

>>1865154
just confirmed with a v2 owner, its part-for-part dimensionally identical with the light, which is the same dimensions as the V6
so yes, although the nozzle is a bit shorter, but the v6 will fit directly into the cr10v2
you gotta swap the thermistor in firmware though

>>1865164
Thanks a lot!!! Just bought a V6 and some e3d nozzles.
No clue yet how to swap the thermistor in the firmware but I will look that up now, thanks again :)

>>1862988
I can see probably three or four in that image, but more than anything else, I can see a whole lot of resin dust. That thing has been filed and sanded.

>>1865159
>they are liable to ship chinkshit garbage sometimes
E3D does sometimes too

just another reason on how shit the v2's hotend is
https://youtu.be/79fgvrNbKmA

>>1865266
>angry autistic aussie gets mad at china again

>>1865013
You might want to go back to class. Hollow objects are stronger than solid objects *of the same weight*. If you have a 10cm dia and 50cm length metal cylinder with 0.5mm thick walls vs. something of the same size but completely solid, which do you think is going to buckle first?

How do I get my ender 3 to make more detailed small prints? Can I use a finer nozzle? Is it capable of that?

Teaching myself fusion 360 with the help of the internet. I finished modelling my first threaded container with lid and just started printing it in green PLA. Im excited to see how it comes out.

Hey I got a question. This is the first print off of my Photon S and it has this white color where two sections join together along with black spots in the same place. Is this an overexposure thing either from the printing or curing or some other issue?
I'm not worried about it from a visual perspective since I plan on painting almost everything that I print but if its a structural issue that could be more of a problem

>>1865355
The black spots are probably you seeing "inside" the part due to the way the light travels - if you paint the whole thing except for the base and look at the bottom you'll know what I mean.

As for the white, no idea, never seen that before.

>>1865353
Keep us informed. I had some unforeseen hotend issues when I printed my current spool holder which is kind of falling apart. Now I've been itching to design my own replacement now that I've gotten my printer sorted. Copying the design idea and putting a threaded end and cap on to attach it to my printer is what's been keeping me from doing it. Seeing someone's success might just push me over the edge.

>>1865346
yes a smaller diameter nozzle

>>1865155
>Do these "genuine" parts really cost $100+ to manufacture with good QC, or is it a giant ripoff by hobbyist wankery?
Quick rule of thumb: for a 100 USD hotend I'd expect manufacturing costs to be 20-25USD, but product development, quality control and overhead add another 50 USD to that, so about 75 USD total. Add a 30-40% profit margin and you end up with a 100 USD product. The chinks meanwhile make them for 20-25USD, slap the same margin (if not more, precentage wise) on there and call it a day at 30 USD. They don't do product development (just copy), they don't do quality control (just rubber stamp that shit) and they have much smaller overhead costs divided across a much larger volume.
The solution is to buy two chinkshit product from different batches, and that gives an acceptable defect ratio.

>>1865355
The white is just uncured resin. Wash it a little better next time

>>1865353
I'm at a similar stage to you, it's pretty cool being able to do the whole process from concept to print.

>>1864866
because options
>>1865143
the walls and container came out to about 100 grams, so around $2 for all, i started it before i went to bed and it was finished before i came home from work the next day.

>>1863110
Bin it all, your heat block is full of decomposing plastic which is releasing carcinogens into your room.

>>1865539
itrs not that big of an issue, I used a scoarched earth and steel wool approach on my last heater block failure. The oven uses a chimney tho.

How the fuck do you get your printer to stop making 2mm filament and jamming up the bowden tube in the heat break? I'm really close to disabling retraction and just dealing with weird globbies and stringing.

>>1864791
>What's the maximum advisable infill for structural parts?
All of the structure comes from the wall/perimeter and top/bottom settings. The only role the infill plays is to support the topside of the print.

>>1865562
Sounds like heat creep. Check the heat sink fan.

>>1865618
I guess the noctua I was using isn't moving enough air. Time for a delta.

Printed these with a .6mm nozzle and .2mm layer height in 5 hours. Looks good for first set of prints. Going to prime them now and paint them. I'm still confused between the relationship with nozzle size and layers height.

>>1865661
So Nozzle size is (roughly) the resolution limit of the X and Y. Layer height is the resolution of the z axis. Smaller nozzles give finer results, but are slower since you can't deposit as much plastic.

>>1865155
as with everything, the genuine part pays the innovator
by buying clones the original manufacturer doesn't make a buck and you will likely never hear from them again.

And clones are a double edged sword. Ok, they are significant cheaper But like half of the hotend shit one can buy, its not made by the drawing or missing crucial features that result in a shitty product. now Anons claiming on the webs their part x is shit and doesnt work is tainting the reputation of the designer company

>>1865661
What >>1865662 said, but also keep in mind that layer height should be somewhere between 25% and 75% of nozzle size for decent results.

>>1865475
It was washed for 8 minutes but I have a feeling it might be because I let it sit for a little under an hour on the plate before I took it off and washed it but honestly I have zero fucking idea what it is

>>1862842
The cool volafile groups all were shutdown last time I checked :c

>>1863020
Around 300$ for the complete setup. Elegoo Mars/ Photon whatever, UV curing lamp, plastic containers for IPA/Ethanol (or water/simple green etc for water washable resins), nitrile gloves, paper towels, etc.

You're going to have to teach yourself 3D modeling and sculpting. Blender is a good choice because it costs 0$, or you could pirate Zbrush, but either way you're going to have to go into self-teaching mode and spend a lot of time with YouTube tutorials and practicing.

>>1865747
To follow up, here is an example of a relatively simple model made in Blender and printed on an Elegoo Mars

>>1865747
I think ali still have a decent sale on atm (might just be over), with the anycubic wash and cure thing being $20-40 more than a diy wash and cure set up. The diy option would be slightly worse but could easily be made slightly better, but then the wash and cure thing could too and it's ready to go.

I would definitely look at buying an sla printer or accessories from ali if you're in the UK atm as the ebay market is still selling the pos for £100 more than they're worth I'm finding. Like to buy a used but working model on ebay is costing a bit more than new on ali, although I think the elegoo printers might be getting normally priced. They did just presale the new bigguns.

This is my Y axis on an Ender 3, which I don't think I adjusted when I built it. Is this normal dust buildup or are my rollers too tight? I don't have dust like this on my X or Z axes.

>>1865864
yes, dust will gather on all the rollers eventually

Has anyone ever tried shooting brad nails (headless/trim nails) into a 3d print? I had printed some door trim in ABS and nailing went fine. Accidentally ordered PLA for the rest of the batch and I'm worried about the brittle-ness of PLA.

I am retarded thots is only my second print. Is this an example of a poorly leveled bed?

>>1865966
possibly, but it definitely means your nozzle is too close to your bed

>>1865300
the solid one. if you think that's not the case, go ahead and show me the calculations. use the example of 4 chair legs supporting a fat no degree NEET like yourself to failure.

>chair legs made of tinfoil are stronger than solid aluminum rods
You don't even need any math for this

>>1862413
Absolutely. Use soluble filament supports.
You do have a dual extruder right anon?

>>1862413
Yes, especially if you use multi materials as you can use a flexible material for compliant joints and hard material like Nylon for the spikes.

Have any of you autists gone through the trouble to enable non-planar slicing on your Ender 3's? Results seem neat, but most of the examples I see have little depth. This is probably because prints are extremely limited by the hot end nozzle length being so short. Basically your dwell depth can only be the Z distance of your nozzle tip to the extruder.
>5-axis for <$500 wen

>>1865659
Probably. They run slower for the sake of noise reduction. Check that it also matches the voltage of your machine.

>>1866325
I'm not an enderfag but I recently bought a needle hotend and I've had minor success with the design, you gotta bump the temp up by 10 degrees but the lack of the flat nozzle is resulting in some pitiful first layers as you cant smush the plastic. flow control is also an issue so retraction x/y speed has to be fast in order to keep the nozzle cool. The fans cant run either.

when I finally get those first layers perfected I'll try a face or mask with the slic3r nonplanar build
you can see my calibration test prints in >>>/bant/10750911

>>1866325
>5-axis for <$500 wen
That's what I've been saying

>>1865963
I don't think PLA is going to like that kind of abuse. PETG either. I would expect splitting/cracking along the layer lines.

>>1865662
Thanks, I could try .15mm or .4mm layers with the .6mm nozzle and see how it performs. These turned out well, needed some post processing with a knife. I used automotive primer then painted them with an airbrush.

>>1865747
>>1865764

I think potential buyers looking to get an SLA printer really underestimate the importance of having the "infrastructure" involved with using them. When i got my Photon i was excited to try and print something so i just ran it with just what was included in the box. The first test print came out beautiful, but the cleanup was hell afterwards. After that first print i just put it away and haven't been using it until i set up a proper workspace for it.

- Just draining the vat back into the bottle with the included filter isn't practical because the resin is as viscous as honey and would mean staying still holding the vat over the bottle for 20 minutes for all of it to fully pour back in...
- They don't include plastic containers so you need to be prepared to sacrifice one from the kitchen
- Isopropyl alcohol isn't as easy to find in large quantities, especially in the current year. The cleanup requires plenty of it, and you need to find a local lab chemicals supplier if you don't want to pay 3 times the price
- They include one of those disposable flu masks that doesn't really do anything, the whole room will smell like resin even if you leave the window open. You really need some sort of active ventilation while it's working.

So I forgot and left my vat of resin in my Elegoo Mars for about a week and a half now. Should I chunk it or will it be okay to use again?

Take a look at the bridges in the center. Right part is a (kinda old) plated nozzle, left part is a brand new 25$ microswiss A2 hardened steel nozzle.
Filament is a matte PLA from 3djake. Not wood fiber or anything, just matte. I'm sure it has some additives inside to make it matte/rough to the touch, but is it possible for it to eat through a plated nozzle after just a couple rolls? Will the hardened steel one last longer? I still have 2-3 rolls of this filament.

>>1865864
Too tight. Don't listen to dustfags, that's from plastic rollers being eaten. Loosen them up a bit and clean everything with wd40

>>1862410
Any recommendation for a hobbyist torque wrench? I have to deal with my first unpullable clog.

>>1866578

Just stir it up to make it homogenous again, remove any cured chunks and make sure the fep is clear and that nothing has settled on it. If its been sitting under the cover it should be fine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7fzNNqju8Q

>>1863110
Heat the block on the stove

>>1866648
thats how I saved my 100$ block of aluminum

Can you say what a problem is here? It breaks easily and have these ugly holes not only on top layer (octopus head) but walls

>>1866690
Infil amount? Wall thickness? Did you have any feed issues? I had a tangle that ruined an overnight print and the last ~1/2 inch that did print looked like that before the filament broke.

>>1866606
You're the MVP anon. Thanks. That was super helpful.

Trying to print Sunlu black PETG on my Maker Select v2.1. Printing at 235c, 70 bed. Print starts out just fine, but after about 10 minutes, the extruder starts skipping every now and then, and as time goes on starts skipping more and more often, soon sounding like popcorn. Extruder stepper is very hot to the touch.

What the hell can I do to fix this?

>>1866751
It might have something to to that I was using the retraction settings from a bowden style printer. Just dropped the retraction distance from 6.5mm @ 25mm/s back down to 1.5mm @ 25mm/s. I'll run another test after this stepper motor cools back down to somewhere below 'molten'.

>>1866768
bruh
yeah you probably heatcreeped the fuck out of your poor heatbreak by retracting too much. Your heatbreak "fins" should be cool to the touch.

Is the elegoo Mars pro worth it? I've never done any 3d printing. Considering the Mars as my first machine but not sure if the extra cash is better spent on the pro or more supplies

needle nozzle is printing nonplanar
looks like I can push it to 70, maybe 80 degrees without issue, so I could do lithopanes or small mask like this
you dont need a long nozzle for nonplanar as long as you know your nonplanar region doesn't go above 15 mm it seems, so detailed reliefs are no issue, other than it takes 10 years to generate the gcode
https://youtu.be/ctOLmlDxdkU

I'm a complete dipshit when it comes to 3d modelling. Will someone fix this?
-The ring that goes around the ball meets the ring around the button has gaps
-The button and ring around the button also extrude further than the ring that goes around the entire ball.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4386568

>>1866817
>>>/3/

>>1866800

The added features are niceties that aren't crucial to operation. If you can get the normal one along with resin and alcohol for the same price, go for that. AFAIK there's no starter resin included in the package.

i need some good starter tutorials for fusion360 to learn how to make those weird statues people like printed into piggy banks. like those baby yoda statues and heads.

>>1866690
Definitely underextrusion. Filament likely rubbing somewhere in the extruder causing a shit ton of friction.

>>1866972
thats mostly artistic modeling work
get stl/obj
drop in meshmixer
solidify(auto or sculpt in non-manifold shells) and hollow
punch rectangle hole in blender/mm with boolean operation

>Cubic Subdivision infil pattern makes little Stars of David

>>1867099
buddy...

Could you guys pot some pictures of your filament spool-feed setup? I can't seem to get mine right and keep waking up to broken filament and a 80% done print with only 10% of it on the bed.

>>1867133
Are you using bowden or DD?
If bowden I have it on the control box to the side where it feeds on resting on an assembly that lets it spin on bearings.
If DD I jut mount it above the frame.
You likely have it to far away and/or the material has absorbed moisture.

>>1862410
is the Creality LD-002R a good resin printer?

>>1867223
Yeah.

Didn't come out exactly how I wanted but I'm done fucking with it. Things I learned:
Painting small things is hard as fuck
Metal color acrylics suck fucking balls even the supposed "good" brands like Vallejo
Light color acrylics in general leave brush marks for some reason

I'm printing in ABS now because I want to do some acetone smoothing and need heat resistance. Naturally, the ABS is shrinking more than the PLA I'm used to. I have already calibrated PLA with a 20mm cube. Should I account for the ABS shrink by calibrating the esteps again and adjusting them accordingly, or should I just scale my model up to account for shrink?

>>1867223
It's not bad. Compared to the elegoo mars it has a quick levelling system, but the mars is just as easy tbqh. Mars also has a lowest layer height of 10 micron, while the ld-002r has a lowest height of 20 micron.

>>1866751
>>1866768
>>1866788

Finally got that PETG to print on my Maker Select v2.1. It was a trip though. Forums suggest that the Maker Select has some pretty gnarly heat creep on the extruder stepper regardless, turns out. Ordered some Nema 2 heatsinks that should be here Tuesday.

>>1867397
Light colors tend to have poor coverage, even in mini painting you'll need to work in many thin coats, alternating directions in-between. One trick is to start with a darker or similar base coat that covers better. Or use an airbrush and leave the detail work to brushes

>>1867397
Were you expecting the metal to come out like chrome or something? The only paints that will do that are lacquers, even then the surface you paint onto needs to be shiny.

>>1867468
No it just came out looking like shit because it was so rough from the brush marks. I tried a gold from 5 different brands before just going with spray paint. I repainted the base like 6 times.

>>1867397
If you want great metallics/shiny paints, I've always heard Tamiya is the go-to for things like that. They're apparently what people use for gundam kits, but I think they're pretty much airbrush only

>>1867436
Pretty big difference if your sole purpose is dimensionally accurate pieces. Which is pretty much the only thing I do with resin big stinkys.

On a separate note I'm looking for suggestions on cutting out vibration on a printer. I'm not having major issues, but I'm at the fine tune point with it. Currently have the printer on a short mostly square solid wood table that's fairly chonky. I was thinking I'd get a big fat paverstone to put on the table, then another rubber paver to lay on top of that.

https://www.joann.com/sculpto-pro2-3d-printer/17039025.html

any good? $80 with 20% off coupon

>>1867516
God no.

>>1867516
I would never ever buy a 3D printer without a heated bed. Fuck that noise.

>>1863136
They are already out there free to download, if you know where to look

>>1867516
no gcode, avoid

help /3DPG/
I messed with cura's mesh fixes option and now i got random blop like pic related
This happens on curvy/corners surfaces, but not all of them, can anyone screen me the default configuration for cura mesh fixes ??
thx !

>>1867706
another example

>>1867706
>>1867709
thats not a mesh fix issue, have you configured your seam and retraction settings correctly?

>>1867712
thoose are not seam, pic related you can see the seam well aligned on Z
this one is a previous try when every mesh fixes option was on, i disabled all and that improve but not completly fixes the issue, this tell me that this is related to mesh option

>>1867721
if its not a seam then its probably(?) nozzle/firmware slowdown for some reason and I can't replicate issues like that on my duet. if mesh fixes are causing that it my have to do with your gcode resolution bogging down the controller, 0.01 should only be used by 32 bit controllers...

>>1862928
> It takes some effort but I can post my automated "make printable" tool comparison if you wanna try just letting a computer do it.

pls

>>1867739
the top ones would be
>netfabb(2020) extended repair (free to use as a student)
>materialize pro (not free, but very good results)
>3d builder (included with windows, not as good as netfab web for free options)
and
>netfab web (https://service.netfabb.com/service.php)) (best free option, but its sent to a server to convert)

the raw data is compressing and uploading right now, here is the currently functioning results, some services aren't in there due to no way to download without paying or being a print farm service @nonfiles /X6u2TbG3of/comparison_sorted_pdf
the trinckle data in the raw folder is invalid due to the service being bought by jomatik

>>1867758
@nonfiles .com/v1L0T5Gdoa/model_repair_7z

meshmixer 3.5 is bugged right? the previous version works fine, but that ui has one hell of a learning curve. I'm trying to learn to make banks and stash boxes out of statues. they need a retard easy mode for lazy retards like me.

New Thread
>>1867941

>>1867942
>new thread on page 10
Now this is a quality OP
Nice

>>1862514
higher on the street!