/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Again, thank you for not putting >>1848031 in the OP

>>1852318
he could have just did the tits

Beautiful

>>1852370

>>1852371

last post before I quit my album, file names were forgotten
>>1852370 ILLUMinati
>>1852371 sacrifice your soulds to the blood god
>>1852373 ignore the cringe poster (and the wall poster too)

>>1852373
>>1852371
>>1852370
Sierpinski/10

>>1852370
>>1852371
>>1852373
newfag

>>1852318
>>1852368
Look at the base, he is an absolute retard that cant even print a basic shape with FDM

Built an enclosure for my Max using Ingo tables a la the Lack Ender 3 enclosure. Not fully sealed yet, but works well as an anti cat device. Needs some upgrades but it is functional. Definitely not the cheapest route, but much sturdier than I thought it would end up.

Built an enclosure for my Max using 2 INGO Ikea tables a la the LACK Ender enclosure. Surprisingly sturdy but not the cheapest route. I haven't sealed it completely yet, but it's mainly an anti cat device for the moment.

>>1852430
Please report my post for being a phonefag. I am filled with shame.

Are there any other affordable 4K resin printers on the horizon other than the Saturn?

>>1852430
>wood
If you're gonna use some filaments you might need to put in a humidity sensor because wood swells up with water unless you put sealant on it.

How cool is that

>>1852491

>>1852481
I don't follow. Does the filament melt produce a lot of water vapor? If that's the case, I don't think it will be a big problem. Next addition is a couple of high CFM PC case fans for air exchange. Mainly just printing PLA but if I go for high temp stuff I'll enclose the box fully and then consider a sealant. Currently the back wall is open just enough for airflow but not enough for a paw.

>>1852491
Sorry for fucked up orientation

>>1852491
Neat. For target practice? What caliber/range?

What kinda fucky wucky yucky gummy bear twinkle fuck dickshit gonorrhoeal garbage is this layer shifting? I'm absolutely certain I tightened everything properly, and it all started after hotend swap

>>1852504
Absolutely fucking livid since this is the second time. Last time it fucked 10 hours in. I thought Z hop be fucking me here so I turned it off, but it's still fucking fucked.

>>1852504
You're getting stringing during moves which should not be extruding, and the filament isn't setting quick enough, indicating your extrusion temperature is too hot.

>>1852511
>>1852504
You have only yourself to blame here. Stop being a failure.

>>1852517
I know that fucko, that's why I'm looking for people with more experience
>>1852516
Could it be too high of an extrusion multiplier or a loose head? It's Gembird PLA, and I'm burning it at 205°C with a 60° bed. Should I just drop to 190~ish?

I have an old 1000$ printer (BQ Hephestos 2) is it still any good?

It has no heated bed, VERY loud steppers, but direct drive and linear rails on X and Z.

>>1852526
Does it matter, you own it already
Just use it

>>1852528
True, its an absolute PITA to use it though due to the loud steppers, so I have to put in the basment.
Is it easy to add wifi to an old printer?

>>1852521
>Should I just drop to 190~ish?
I would try this. Perhaps the bed to 50C as well, i dont think that the higher temp is helping in your case.

>>1852531
Could it also be loose head? Once I replaced the hotend things went south.

>>1852521
>extrusion multiplier
Also I doubt it's this at this stage.
The problem is filament coming out when it's not extruding, rather than too much coming out when it is extruding.

>>1852533
Not sure, if you can get the stringing to stop and you still have problems, maybe.

>>1852535
I have a hard time believing it's just temperature, as I ran PLA that came with the printer at these temperatures and I just can't fucking believe it's such a simple solution.

>>1852537
Couldn't care less about stringing as I can get PLA cheaply and remove the strings easily. My problem is no printing.

>>1852526
If you know how to replace the control board then you can get wifi AND quieter steppers

>>1852544
Tfw too scared to do it since its an old printer with no guides for it in the interwebs

>>1852504
yes that's layer shifting, caused by missing steps in X and/or Y axis.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/layer-shifting/
which axis is it shifting in?
is your hotend significantly heavier?
is this from PTFE to all-metal?
check your belts again.
try slowing down your print. and fix your retraction settings.

>>1852530
if you have an rpi or old laptop, hook up octoprint
>>1852545
pick up an established board with quiet steppers
print a new enclosure
mark each cable (masking/painter's tape works well - check labels on old pcb, manually follow the cable from each piece) & move one-by-one, following the new board's wiring guide.
should have, minimally:
>X/Y/Z/E motors & endstops
>LCD (lots of pinheads, probably 2x5?)
>hotend heat
>bed heat (only on new I guess. you can swap for a heated bed)
>power from PSU
>fan

>>1852600
I'd have rpi and an old laptop running XP.

Alright getting the board and enclosure is no problem.
But my printer has along with the normal stuff:
-Some screen with also the SD slot in the same PCB, so a shit ton of wires back to the board
-A special inductive bed level sensor

My anycubic photon S printer is failing me

Specifically, the slicer program is just like, not including some of the models in the program. I don't mean the prints are breaking off the bed, or the supports are breaking or anything, it literally just misses some of the models.

What the heck is going on?

>>1852605
>Some screen with also the SD slot in the same PCB, so a shit ton of wires back to the board
>A special inductive bed level sensor
need pics of current wiring for both, if it's undocumented. check that it's not a melzi board or something else that you can find documentation on first though.

>>1852618
Theres some in-depth documentation on that, but unfortunately its too in-depth for me.
https://github.com/bq/hephestos-2/tree/master/Electronic%20Design
https://github.com/bq/zum/blob/master/zum-mega3d/Zum%20Mega%203D.PDF

>>1852611
Might be a problem with your graphics card, not rendering correctly to the photon file. You can check the slices by opening the photon file. Try slicing on a different pc too.

If thats fine, it could be a bug called "frame shearing" on your printer. Set up a time lapse on your lcd and do a print without a vat and build plate to see if its displaying ever layer correctly. Mine had a problem where some layers were not displayed correctly that resulted in garbage prints. Updating the firmware on the printer solved it.

>>1852642
the graphics card is the most likely suspect, cus I'm downloading to an abosolute piece of shit 6 year old laptop instead of my glorious new VR PC

It also has a habit of crashing the program after making the file

I should probably just install it onto my new PC, but I have a rather large amount of .stl files to transfer if I do that. Probably better than dealing with this shit though.

>>1852286
LOL PRINT BOOBIES

>>1852504
Tighten your fucking axis stepper motor coupler grub screws you stupid fucking retard.

>>1852654
>>1852593
Thanks frens,slicing in Cura, will check all once I get out of work tomorrow. Really don't care for stringing as I said above as I can clean them easily and I like to process.

What I don't understand is why the problem started after the hotend was changed, they're the same hotend and I had my brother check it and apparently no looseness on it.

I had to replace the bowden connector on the extruder end and it's on the tighter side though, but I doubt it's that what's causing the issue.

having a kinda strange print error here, where the first 8 layers or so lean on the y axis, but the rest print normally.
Things I've tried: retightening belts+wheels, adjusting the vref
Anything I'm not thinking of?

>>1852670
do you not get that stringing is a symptom of the problem, and no one cares if you care about it?
> doc, my head hurts
> There's a nail in it
> doc, I'm, here about my head, not the nail!

You fags never post anything interesting in this general. It's always people printing their gay little miniatures or trying to troubleshoot their printer.

Why do I get underextrusion only occasionally? It will do 50 layers just fine but then on the 51st layer it will underextrude and then go back to normal on the 52nd layer. It's driving me fucking nuts because it's not a immediately noticable problem but it does end up ruining prints. I don't see the extruder skipping either.

>>1852868
Because that's 99% of 3d printing.

>>1852868
https://www.tiktok.com/tag/practicalprinting?lang=en
merry christmas

Guys I think I'm addicted to the 1mm nozzle..

>>1852813
Mesh level your bed. If you are too incompetent to do that, then just print everything on rafts from now on.

>>1852868
What do you think people bought their printers for?

>>1852934
I bought mine to print motorcycle parts I can't find anymore and to make hangers for my garage , also making a manual cmm

>>1852818
Bruh, I'm medical. Don't get me started. I just don't get why layer shifts are connected to stringing

>>1852545
>no guides for
Printers are basically all the same minus the controll board and lcd.
Stop being focused on the model
For example, Ender 3 guides apply for all bowden printers with 4.1 hotend

>>1852868
Pedal faggot here
I 90% print callibrarion cubes so nothing to post and techtalk in this general is a lost cause

>>1852869
Maybe the thing your plastic rolls on gets stuck occasionally, for a layer or so. Check maybe it has a way to grab on something.

>>1852868
this desu

>>1853003
What kind of pedals we talking about faggot? Like guitar pedals or like helicopter/SIM pedals?

resinchads rise up

>>1853087
paint still too thick and cant FDM shit

>>1853078
their in the op

>>1852868
>You fags never post anything interesting in this general.
Well, post something yourself then.

>>1852286
I think it's time to get myself a resin printer, my Ender 3 is perfect for terrain and big minis but the small ones come out only pretty ok, which isn't enough for a perfectionist like me.
Should I go with a Photon (S?) or a Mars Pro?

>>1853087
Thin your paints before they thin you, anon

>>1853087
you got the shakes? paints all over the place

>>1853148
Good thing for the shakes is to do a couple shots or sip on some whiskey. Smoothes you right out.

>>1853120
Do it; change yer life if you're into minis (even with the relative higher cost of resin you're still at pennies per mini).
>Photon S or Mars Pro?
6 of one, half dozen of the other. I've got a normal Mars; I like the way the build platform attaches & levels, but I covet the Photon's hinged hood door.

I picked a bad time to get interested in 3D printing, /diy/. The printers I'm most interested in are either out of stock or the vendors are overcharging.
>Artillery Genius / Sidewinder
out of stock or $100 overpriced

>Prusa mini
won't be shipping until september

>inb4 buy an ender 3 pro
I've done research and I'd like to spend just a little more and get some upgrades pre-installed. Everywhere I go, I see the same stories about the Ender 3 "just buy this and this and this bro, it totally fixes the problems and makes your prints better". So why should I buy a $230 printer if I need to spend more anyway to get it to an acceptable standard?

I'm just pissed that nothing is in stock. When will we see supply return?

>>1853223
90% of the "just buy this" upgrades to the Ender 3 are quality of life shit, its perfectly acceptable out of the box.

>>1853223
>Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2/X-Smart/X-Maker

Is there a way to make silc3r supports not suck horse balls? I don't know if I'm doing wrong, but
>the interface is horrible and makes it incredibly hard to pop off - it's almost solid (compared to cura's default grid)
>it fucking insists on supporting random garbage like bridges despite the option to support bridging being turned off

>>1853210
I read that the detachable cover of the Mars let out less fumes than the Photon's hinged one: is it true or it doesn't really matter?

>>1853274
Hard to say, since I've ony got the one printer; I can smell Elegoo's resin faintly when I'm using that, but the Sirya Fast doesn't particularly smell at all (cover on or no), so it probably depends more on the resin whether you'll notice anything.

>>1853241
Yes, by switching to Cura and using tree supports

>>1853281
>>1853241
Also configuring said supports to have a finer interface mesh

>>1853281
I can switch to cura and get a proper support interface and conservatice supports that don't shove themselves into every hole, sure, but I was hoping prusaslicer had some way of being not garbage. I mean, it's basic shit, you'd expect that to be decent in a slicer supposedly used by a ton of people (i.e. it's not some hobby project nobody uses). I really fucking hate using Cura and pretty much everything about Cura, I'd love it if I could switch to slic3r full-time, if only it didn't have these quirks that make it unusable for slicing some stuff.
>tree supports
Half the time tree supports make it take 30% longer and use more material. Sometimes they generate with a bunch of just floating branches. I got them to actually work usefully on some models, but then it saved like one hour out of 20 and used the same amount of material.

>>1853283
>I really fucking hate using Cura and pretty much everything about Cura
It's just a different UI, stop being an autism

>>1853283
>Half the time tree supports make it take 30% longer and use more material
Cura tree supports take half the time to print and take less than half of the material of standard supports, again stop being an autism

>>1853293
>it's "just" a different UI that makes everything much harder and is extremely laggy and ugly and unintuitive
I mean yes, the UI is my main problem with it, but the UI is literally how you interact with the program. So I'd love it if I could just stop interacting with Cura, because any time I do, I have to use its UI.
>>1853294
>generate model with tree supports
>print time increases by 30%
>material usage increases
>this is apparently "half as long" and "using half the material of standard support"
I don't deny that tree supports are probably good for some models. They're not fucking working for mine. Note that I'm not blaming Cura for that - there's a reason they're labelled experimental. But I'm certainly blaming you if you think they're some kind of panacea that make every single model print twice as fast.

>>1852868
Where do you think you are?

>>1853300
>>generate model with tree supports
>>print time increases by 30%
That is because you suck at placing supports. If the support is thin, wider than taller it will be more intricate, but if the supports can grow tall enough it will actually look like a tree with a small base to grow into the support canopy. this is where you will have massively reduced materials and print time, also tree supports are much more easy to detach.

>>1853306
Well exactly, most of my shit that needs supports is wide and low.
It's fucking autogenerated supports, what the fuck do you mean by "you suck at placing supports"?

Anyway, let me reiterate my original question: is there a way to improve supports in prusalicer, in particular, make the interface not some kinda fully filled flat surface but more like a grid or cura's default? Telling me to "use cura" doesn't fucking help because guess what I'm doing right now.

>>1853120
What the fuck man. I get so fucking jelly seeing other peoples resin prints. I know I'm doing something wrong because mind don't fit together like this.

>>1853223
follow OP, I made a kit(the cheapest cube style I could get, 3d printed a corexy frame with it) and dropped in a duet. Too much effort for what you get.
depending on what you want, sice you're probably in the ~350 range:
>big build volume
the chiron's little brother with a folded frame: the anycubic Mega-S
(id still recommend a board swap but I'm a 32bit simp)
I'd also recommend a flson kossel for this reason, but the QQ-S is ~$400
>very tiny models and figures
go SLA, follow the OP, the "pro" version isn't really special
>small figures, most objects and can be kept fully stock
prusa mini, I'm only partially in the prusa meme because its 32 bit(and to piss off enderers who get triggered every time its mentioned), the problem with it its so feature filled they locked the software to prevent upgrades without modifying the board. also good luck waiting 10 years to get it.
the qiditech ones also fit this description, but print abs better and dont have 32 bit boards

>>1853228
this is true
>>1853224
>garbage is perfectly fine out of the box
some people want to print things

>>1853311
you simply need both

>>1853333
>want pro version because only got a spare bedroom to put it in and want carbon filter to control some of the fumes
>still waiting
>now hear about the saturn
>no filter, but much bigger print area and monochrome LCD
There's always something that makes me hold off pulling the trigger.

>>1853345
do you think carbon filters even work?

>>1853311
Get an LD-002R

>>1853340
What?
>>1853351
That's what I have.

How's the tech for printing good quality anime girl figs? Can it be done and make stuff comparable to what you'd buy commercially or is it still gonna be fairly shitty in comparison?

>>1853363
The first step is printing yourself a big buttplug and put it way up your butt. And I mean waay up, as much as it can go. This is quite a difficult thing to do correctly and you shouldn't even consider printing anime figurines until you master this first step throughly.

>>1853333
I am >>1853223 and I guess I should have said more. yes I'm in the $300-$400 range. I'm not interested in printing figures or resin/SLA printers. PLA is what I want to start with and see what I can do that's practical/amusing. The CR-10 or Chiron is now $500 minimum. How does the anycubic mega-S perform? Everything is above the prices I am seeing in review videos and it aggravates me because these are printers I would consider. Which is why I asked if anyone has an idea when this shit will end and supply normalizes?

>>1853411
>How does the anycubic mega-S perform?
-anycubic's support actually exists
-other than maybe a tool rack, the frame and design is solid enough to not need mods
-the extruder was an issue on the original mega, but they use a geared titan clone now
the main weak point seems to be the bed (not that is bad, just that its unremarkable and ultrabase degrades over time), I use painter's tape but a pei bed upgrade is relatively expensive(~30$) if you don't want to replace parts like that.

Any opinions on the New Ender 3 V2 with 32 bit board? Hate to buy chinkshit but the Prusa's $800...

Any opinions on the New Ender 3 V2 vs the MK3S? Hate to buy chinkshit but the Prusa's $800...

>>1853449
>the cheapest vs the most expensive consumer product
look at midrange, 300mm is a useful feature.

>>1853449
Is the V2 even compatible with all the mods out there?

>>1853470
it uses the same frame and extruder as the pro, it'll upgrade just fine

>>1853457
midrange as in cr10? and by 300mm you mean per second?

>>1853483
>FDM
>300mm/s
lul

>>1853483
Pretty sure he means by volume

Also, how is the E3D extruder on the CR-10 V3?

>>1853483
>midrange
~$500: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2/X-Smart/X-Maker; I'd also include corexy printer kits if you know how to assemble.
>300mm
300mm as in size, a (good) printer with 100mm more requires a sturdier frame and better manufacturing; you also can print bigger things in one piece.

>>1853490
~$400 kits are good too, but expect a cheaper power supply and needing better stepper drivers or an entire control board for 100mm/s (which is -actually- achievable, not 300)

>>1853486
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibsBiALMMSE

>>1853363
Print in pieces, print in resin.

resinchads rise up

guess who's back

>>1853588
this is a really cool experiment but i imagine the wear on the parts would be so high youd be replacing them every couple of weeks

>>1853633
I bet they wear about the same just at a higher rate, so a print at 800mm/s would be 8x faster than one at 100mm/s.
Real issue I can see is you have to crank the heat up on the nozzle for it to be able to melt plastic fast enough to print that fast which at that speed could probably encroach on the dangerous level for a PTFE lined hotend.

>>1853588
makes me want to reprint my frame in nylon and PC

>>1853588
Can it do it? Fine, sure. But can it do it WELL? Those are straight walls with no features - how does it fare on anything that's not just a square?

>>1853635
yea that makes sense, maybe e3d need to machine this guy a SuperSuperVolcano

Mirror mirror on the wall why can't I fucking print at all. I tightened it all up a d lowered temps and speed

>>1853671
Is that PLA?
Ive never seen someone get PLA warping and separating it from the build plate.
Glue stick is your friend.

>>1853671
That's an interesting benchy malfunction

>>1853674
I'll try a raft, hope it'll help.

>>1853679
Ive never had luck with rafts, besides that whats stopping the raft from warping?
Im telling you glue stick is the answer to everything. Ive quite rarely had a print come off my build plate, and the times I did were when I forgot to replenish the glue layer.

>>1853682
I certainly doubt it's glue that's just the answer.

>>1853671
oof, I'm printing the same thing in 10 minutes

>>1853486
I messed with the acceleration and jerk to try to get 300mm/s I maxed out the requested speed (1000x speed will limit to max values) for a presliced 20mm cube
ignoring the curved corners (never tuned lin advance at a 400mm/s requested speed), the printer's headspeed got up to 250mm/s on the sides with simultaneous jerking (high enough to cause blips in the voltage graph) and overall went 120-150 for the infill (cubic, not speedy line infill). I bet I could get to 350 with these settings (tuned years ago for little/no ringing) on a 50mm cube, but I dont trust the PLA idlers for a larger print at ludicrous speed for more than a few layers.

>>1853685
With PLA?
Its entirely the glue, PLA can be printed without a heated bed so the glue is the catalyst. Dudes either printing ABS and doesnt realize how shit it is or hes trying to print PLA on an unheated AND smooth print surface.

>>1853689
Depending on what printer youre running your firmware doesnt even allow you to print past a certain speed even if you set the slicer to do so.

>>1853693
bruh I own a duet, max speed is set in a text file

>>1853691
It's pla, printing on the Anycubic Ultrabase whatever tech duck bed, and I've started having problems post hotend change, but I sincerely don't fucking understand how is it doing this. Especially since I made extremely sure it's all tightened and everything

>>1853671
What the actual dick sucking fucky wucky cummy tummy gummy bear shit is this

>>1853715
I'm sorry did I have a stroke when reading this?

>>1853307
Try changing: Interface layers, interface pattern spacing, interface loops

>>1853715
This has to be trolling, I can't fucking, fuck

>>1853674
>Ive never seen someone get PLA warping and separating it from the build plate.
I've had this problem regularly on the creality glass build plate. I didn't bother with gluestick because usually it wasn't bad enough to fail prints, and I wasn't printing super dimensionally accurate parts, but it was definitely annoying.

Since I switched to PEI it's being day and night.

Printed some camera junk

Printed some camera junk

>>1853741
>inb4 print settings
sand paper

>>1853715
>>1853728
Just resetted Cura and I only get under-extrusions which I know how to fix. I just don't get why the fuck does it do it

>>1853743
>compensating for shit tier prints with manual labor
You do you man

>>1853612
Good job on cropping out the base you FDMlet

>>1853828
he's a phone poster, the main benefit is that he doesnt know how to edit images so you can block based on the name+dimensions

>>1853743
yikes, get a better printer

>>1853775
gotta agree seems like a lot of work

>>1853775
>>1853838
>>1853837
I do like nicely sanded parts but the amount of material shaved is insane

>>1853743
do you use a belt sander or a dermel at least? I have been hand sanding and finishing a model by hand and I still initially sand with a dremel for clearing off blobs and crap

>>1853837
Thats not the printers fault

>>1853853
my printer newer did that

>>1853854
because its all in the settings and yours vary slightly?
Its either settings or shit assembled, aka user error. Nothing a different machine could fix

What's the fastest infill pattern?

>>1853857
Nah, my machine is a quality machine, that sort of defects don't get past QC

>>1853862
zig zag, but it looks like shit

hey can anyone halp me ?
i am trying to improve the underside of overlaps , basically the first layer above support material
the problem is after removing the supports the surface looks rough and spaghetti like :-(
almost as if material was missing from the "first layer after support" and on some occasions it starts to warp a lot when the supports are finished and the rest of the print gets printed, no terminal failures that abort printing but the prints are usually useless due to those warps :-(
i usually picked the filament spaghetti with a pincer and sand off the rest
but it starts to get annoying and i was wondering if there was a possibility to just have normal printing on the supports...
besides this i am really satisfied with the quality of the prints, the only thing that annoys is the underside of things that get supported

support overhang angle is 75%
support pattern is grid
support placement is everywhere
support z distance is 0.2
support density is 20%
support interface is enabled
support roof is enabled
support floor is enabled
support interface thickness is 0.4
support interface resolution is 0.15
support interface density is 33%
support interface pattern is zig-zag

>>1853864
>slicer settings get sieved out by QC
maybe in the 10k range with brand locked filament

>>1853865
It's only for speed in this application, thanks annon. It's just an 15 min difference to cubic subdiv, though I did get lower times by 30-ish minutes with tri-hex

>>1853878
I wouldnt use trihex or any infill that has overlapping lines as if you go too fast it will crash into the other infill line and that might knock over your print.

>>1853879
Oh, I didn't think of that, thanks! What about gyroidal infil?

>>1853881
Gyroid should work, but keep in mind that this one goes the slowest as both axes need to accelerate and decelerate constantly.

>>1853883
Though it offers most strength in theory, right? Also, does pasta infil have any use whatsover?

>>1853884
cubic subdiv

>>1853884
I dont know personally, but I've seen a pic on here of a small gyroid cube surviving being rolled over by a car. So I guess yes.
I've never used pasta infill, but I guess it really depends on the form of your model?

>>1853886
I''m doing minis, so I really do not care much about structural integrity. The entire thing is about 12-ish centimeter in height, which at fine settings makes printing problematic, this model taking up 16-ish hours. I'm trying to shave time off in areas where I do not need them too much.

>>1853888
>not care much about structural integrity
what your infill percentage and perimeter count?

>>1853892
20% and whatever comes with cura by default, I don't want to drop perimeters and I want to be sure the thing don't snap when I break supports off.

>>1853896
id go down to 15%, 2 wall and make sure to uncheck extra wall setting. make top/bottom ~1mm thick, with that low infill you need a few toplayers for it to look good
>I want to be sure the thing don't snap
just try it out, If details snap off youre printing too cold

>>1853875
never had problems with my brand name slicer

>>1853900
Thanks man, I'll have a look at it.

>>1853884
Most tensile strength. It's similar to cubic in terms of compressive strength. Based on some shitty youtuber's test, at least.

>>1853348
To an extent yes, the vapour from the resin is solvent vapour and would react with the charcoal.

>>1853743
Your material sucks ass and it isn't a race to see how close you can get your nozzle to the bed, either re level your bed or use initial horizontal expansion with a negative value.

>>1853999

>>1853294
My uncle bought a 3d printer, what program should i use? i learn anything with motivation is autocad enough?

>>1854000
So what is it?

>>1852286
How does temperature affect resin printers? I've got a small room specifically for my printer and have the window open for ventilation, and had to do a 5 hour print. Temperature in there started out at 24C/75F and when i went in to check on it minutes before it was done, the temperature had dipped to 14C/57F and the model had come loose from the supports on one side and fucked up the end of the print. Is this even a factor for resin? If so, what's the optimal range? I'm using an Anycubic Photon Zero.

>>1854025
Fusion 360 is fine, but when you go into mildly complicated models (as in not a simple axle or box) then expect some headaches and ass-backwards solutions. If you fancy a good challenge, opt for a student license for Solid Edge and watch tutorials.
For slicer, Cura is an excellent first time slicer and it has many settings for more advanced stuff, but you have to enable them. When you need it a quick googling will show you what to enable and how to use.

>>1854029
looks like an SMD element dispenser.

>>1854093
25-30C, probably on the higher end

currently cookin

>>1854188
Thank you fren. I also apparently forgot to hollow the model so it was probably too heavy for the supports as well

I am an absolute brainlet. I wanted to swap the PTFE tube in my ender 3, ended up disassembling the hotend way too far, to the point of removing the heatsink assembly from the heat block proper. Yes, please don't laugh at me. Point is, I put it back together and stuck in the new PTFE tube and all was well, then I realised that the heat block is fucking crooked.

So now that I disassemble the thing again, my question is, what parts exactly should be tightened while hot? I have read countless times that you replace the nozzle while the hotend is hot. What about being a mongoloid and doing impromptu hotend assembly - should I adjust and tighten everything while hot, or is it fine to do while cold?

How come there haven't been any responses to the elegoo saturn? Are other companies cucked jews?

Help.
Ender 3 Pro.

>>1853832
huehuehue

>>1854310
you know when you reply to a blocked thread it doesnt work...

>>1854297
you got any print settings?
we need a pastebin for formatting if we're ender's tech support page

>>1853487
I have the v2 and it just came before I left for holiday, I'll mount it next week but in the end it's a genuine e3d titan. You need a small printed mod for hyper flex stuff but besides that it's pretty good. There are Bondtech bmg kits that are for the cr10 v2 now as well, so they might be worth considering.

>>1854246
The only two things you need to tighten when the hotend is heated is the grub screw, clamping the heated element and the nozzle. Also what do you mean by crooked? Which way? Show pics or gtfo.

>>1854297
Look like PLA so not enough cooling.

Since that one guy was complaining we never show prints here's retrorgbs GC loader mount I'm printing.

>>1853728
>>1853715
>>1853671
should have bought a prusa

>>1854297
should have bought a prusa

>>1854310
>clean out vat + plate, print might succeed
>just clean plate, print never sticks
>print succeeds, donest matter because there bits of cured resin in the vat anyway, have to clean out vat
>print fails, bits of cured resin in vat, have to clean out vat
whats the answer resin chad

>>1854380
>>1854381
quit triggering enderfags, makes it harder to rec $500 machines

>>1854381
>>1854380
The same shitty settings gives the same shitty results on a prusa as well. Anons are just beginners and use the bad settings and bad software. Should be put in the OP that Slic3r is to be avoided altogether if you are a beginner. Start with Cura or Simplify3D

>>1854460
>Slic3r is to be avoided altogether if you are a beginner
It should be avoided altogether period, it's outdated as fuck and long ago been superseded by PrusaSlicer

>>1854462
PrusaSlicer basically is Slic3r now, the distinction isn't really important I feel

why do my layers get so fucky yucky at some places??
i have been tweaking this piece of shit cr10 for 2 weeks now (my first 3d printer) and i just cant seem to get this shit right

>>1854478
I know the answer (relatively simple solution) but I won't help you because your wording and composition irritates me to no end.
Fuck you.

>>1854485
based

>>1854485
Am I supposed to write like this, like an intellectual, to get an answer here? Suck my cock

>>1854478
another example
i think it might be that the extruder is too hot and keeps melting the plastic but that makes no sense

>>1854485
>simple solution
ahahaha
>doubt

>>1854460
>Start with Cura
This, with the ender 3 profile you should be getting decent prints right off the bat. It's stupid easy.

>>1854460
yeah but that doesn't happen with prusa
you use the official prusaslicer which has perfect presets

>>1854460
>>1854462
>>1854472
prusaslicer is way better than cura desu

any good 3d printers under $500 not made in China?

>>1854582
All the parts are made in china anyway. Unless the entire industry takes a U-turn you won't see entirely non-china products in a considerable timeframe

>>1854604
some parts are made in the US and Taiwan, dremel is assembled in the US right?
either way $500 is 2nd printer territory; a kit would let you choose better parts for a nice $300-400 corexy printer or 32bit prusa clone

>>1854611
how about the prusa i3 mini

>>1854617
good luck waiting 10 years and not being able to use custom software

>>1854617
Also ghosting and slooooooooooow printing as all cantilever designs are flawed and should be avoided

>>1854619
why wouldn't I be able to use custom software?

>>1854627
one piece of fucking aluminum costs too much
>>1854628
https://hackaday.com/2019/12/16/prusa-dares-you-to-break-their-latest-printer/

>printing Hero Me duct for dual 5015
>finished
>removed supports, try test fitting to carriage bracket
>try putting it on backwards
>screw brackets on duct piece shatter
FUCK

>>1852498
He wouldn't even be able to shoot nerf darts at it without it breaking and him having to spend 3000 to fix it.

>>1854678
nah the new ones run off a rasberry pi

First time poster here, bit of a 3D printing noob. What is regarded as the strongest 3D printable filament? I always thought ABS and Nylon were the strongest, but looking at their material properties they seem to have similar strength to basic PLA

>>1854189
thingiverse? Is it a snap fit? I'd like to give it a try

>>1854682
nylon with carbon fiber
there are some that can print fibers but most printers could honestly get nylonx as the "strongest" @120$ a kilo

>>1854681
Nah those are too powerful. They don't match the apple philosophy of being absolute shit.

>>1853241
You don't love this?

Prints with my new CR-10 are totally fucked and I can't figure out why. It seems to me like I have levelled the bed really good, I also have some tape under the IKEA LOTS mirror that I'm using as a build plate because it seems like the aluminium might be warped. Anyway when I last tested yesterday I got the nozzle to barely scrape a piece of paper which seems to be how they should be levelled.
Here are my settings:

Layer height: 0.16mm
Wall line count: 4
Top layers: 6
Bottom layers: 6
Infill density: 20
Infill pattern: Quarter Cubic
Printing Temperature: 210
Build Plate Temperature: 50
Flow: 90
Print Speed: 60mm/s
Infill Speed: 60mm/s
Wall Speed: 30mm/s
Top/Bottom Speed: 30mm/s
Travel Speed: 150mm/s
Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s
Enable Retraction: Yes
Retraction Distance: 8mm/s
Retraction Speed: 50mm/s
Enable Print Cooling: Yes
Fan Speed: 100%
Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim
Brim Width: 8mm
Brim Only on Outside: Yes
Maximum Resolution: 0.2mm
Maximum Travel Resolution: 0.2mm
Maximum Deviation: 0.03mm

Am I retarded or what is making my prints fail? Layers seem to have bubbling, top layer detail is dogshit quality and prints have a little bit of stringing

>>1854701
what looks finer than most dumb profiles:
>.16
magic numbers but that's fine, between .15 and .2 is my ideal
>6 top layers
I go a bit over 1mm on top and go under on bottom, so 7/8 layers would make top surfaces nice
>flow 90
calibrate your e-steps(to mm filament extruded), you should use 100% in software, then set flow % in the printer software menu
>60/30 speed
looks fine, I go 80\50 but I have a cube style printer

what looks dumb:
>8mm retration (and stringing)
what the hell? start low, like 2mm then go up until it stops stringing. super large ones will pull it out to fast and cause issues with a blob on the end of the filament and makes blobs/strings on the print at high retraction speeds
also look into bumping up (retraction, not return)speed until the blobs look worse
you can do both with a 4 point retraction tester, use software retraction over hardware (some dumber 8 bit printers need hardware retraction due to not being able to parse them fast enough)
>fan speed 100
I use 60, with speeds increasing when layer times are short or bridges. Prevents curling of the filament on some plastics.
>brim
ew, but if its needed for your glass bed then I guess that's better than a raft
a 120% line width first layer might help with the brim issue, but you need to adjust the flow and first layer height to prevent elephant's foot
>bubbling
are you using PETG or nylon? you need to dry those
does it sound like this when extruding? https://youtu.be/156y6PyyNGQ?t=237

>>1854478
Have you properly calibrated your E-steps yet? That's one of the biggest calibrations for quality. That and, you know
Proper printing temps (print a heat tower for each new brand and color of PLA)
Adequate cooling
Level build plate
Proper belt tension
Aligned zscrew
Stable base

Sometimes you just get a shitty roll of PLA and none of the prints look good!

>>1854391
There are literally two things you can fuck up for prints not adhering to the build plate with resin: shitty leveling or not enough bottom exposure time / bottom exposure layers.
You can try putting a layer of liquid 3-in-1 ptfe lube on the cleaned FEP and then gently wiping the excess away with a microfiber cloth, I've heard some people get success with that, but I've also never had an issue with prints not adhering to the plate since I've bought it.

>>1854654
And now you know why you have to plan for printing orientation. You learn something new every day

>>1854741
No, it was literally user error, I put the pieces together the wrong way, even though there were differently sized tabs for respectively-sized holes specifically to point it out to retards like me. My first thought was "huh, maybe my printer needs to be calibrated, this isn't sized right" rather than "oh I'm putting it together wrong".

>>1854723
>does it sound like this when extruding?
Yes, but I am using eSun's PLA+ not PETG or Nylon

About modifying flow in software vs printer, doesn't the software just put the 90% into the gcode file which the printer then reads and sets it's own flowrate to 90 too? So it shouldn't matter whether it's set in software or printer or am I wrong?

>>1854744
And it's occasional bubbling, not as constant as in this video

>>1854654
plastic deforms under screw pressure and they become loose with time
design your future own parts to fit nylock nuts and dont overtighten

How do I figure out my default E-step through printrun?

>>1854743
Learn to use the horizontal expansion modifier (hint: -0.1 to -0.2)

>>1854744
my flow rate gcodes are always set to 100 in software and my printer settings never reset per print, so I don't know if thats different for newer versions of marlin but I've always used printer flow rate control for consistency.
>pla+
Usually that means it has additives(matte pla does, makes it easier to sand), try drying a small segment of it and do a retraction test and extrude a bit before and after

>>1854751
Or I could just not unga-bunga press two parts from separate prints together that are obviously in the wrong orientation in relation to each other. Even if it had fit, I still had the fucking duct on backwards.

>>1854750
read out eeprom
google how you do that and read the fucking marlin faq, thats 4th grade shit

>>1854757
Yeah, found it later, sorry man. I'm medical, machine code is fucking arcane wizardry to me.

>>1854762
>machine code is fucking arcane wizardry
when you start looking at it it wont be anymore and a deeper understanding of what does what will only help you out in the future, as well as elevate you way above the config copy/paste plebs

>>1854762
I've had to use a medical automated elisa machine, god I wish I could have used gcode, or at least copy/paste commands, fucking had to go through 50 buttons for each command. Way to slow to program anything interesting, despite being a fucking robot arm with a fully automated sensor and injection suite.

>>1854763
I'm trying to callib my esteps, using the air method. But I'm doing something stupid since I got 102 mm when telling it to extrude 100mm by default, so when I calculated, it now doeesn't even pull 10mm

>>1854764
a lot bigger than this since the computer and injection vats are all in the body, but the inside looked like this

>>1854691
bro your fdm printer is larping as an sla

>>1854765
>using the air method
so extruding with the exgtruder detached from the bowden?
extrude 100 !in a realistic federate! like 50mmS and measure precise
than calculate 100* current esteps / precise measured length (2 decimal digits)
marlin accepts esteps with 2 decimal digits. enter new value and verify

>>1854771
>so extruding with the exgtruder detached from the bowden?
Ye bruh. Got 102mm
Was supposed to get 100
So I did 100/102= 0.980
Then I took the default Estep of 80, and multiplied it by my result. Which is 78.4
But now I get do extrusion or just tiny.

>>1854783
and what does m503 echo you estep wise?
if you did not fuck with the firmware yet, id load fail saves. maybe you did enter a wrong value along the way
last reply today

>>1854788
Apparently it just retracts fillament through the exytruder now that the value is less than 80. It retracts

>>1854783
The extrusion length is different under load, especially with the basic spur gear/idler wheel extruders. Get a geared extruder with hobbed gears and you'll have a much more consistent extrusion.
Also if the extruder is squishing the filament too much you have different extruded volume as well.

I'm a fucking tard, tried to install a geared extruder so I did the wire swap on the E-motor cable, swapping pin 1 and pin 4 (i.e. 1st and 3rd wires), and the extruder just doesn't work at all anymore. I swapped it back and still unresponsive.

What would be the debugging path from here? How do I check if the motor's shot somehow, or if something else is wrong?

>go to check on print
>it's not done
>REEEEEEE

for the first time I have more than one model on the card too.

>>1854857
dont plug and unplug motors while current is flowing

Printed the rear of the python from elite dangerous in resin and I'm pretty pleased, however I got too eager clipping one of the supports and snapped a piece off of one of the engines. What's the best way to fix it?

>>1854861
Is current always flowing or only while they're moving? Either way I'm pretty sure I only plugged and unplugged while the printer was off (not 100% certain, though I'm almost certain I at least never did so before the first time it failed to respond). Is there a way to check?

>>1854866
Hotglue it
Or more realistically epoxy it, it's a tiny contact area but it's also a display piece that will see zero stress, so any decent glue will work, epoxy, superglue, whatever

Would a food dryer do the job as a filament dryer?

>>1854866
>>1854869
for redoing parts like that I'd normally say superglue(cheap and thin CA, no additives or thick gel to slow reaction) and baking powder, makes a very sandable material, but the heat and the use of unstable liquid CA for new people will cause burns.
If you only use it with baking powder its entirely safe, but if you spill it, a single bit of dust can trigger the reaction (and releases a lot of heat). go epoxy, get some tape and cover the outer edge, let the epoxy set then sand away the inside to match the shape.

>>1854630
>>1854619
This just means you're confirming that you're voiding your warranty. You can still use custom software, but this way Prusa won't be liable if you burn down your house because you're a dumbfuck who flashed improper firmware

>>1854682
Ultem/PEI family, if you're talking straight filament without any inclusions. Otherwise probably something with carbon fiber strands in it.

>>1855054
mmh, CarbonX PEEK+CF
Imagine needing a 150c degree bed just to keep it sticking.

what's wrong with my nigga here, how do i fix him?

>>1855056
fix retraction post settings

>>1855055
It's not so much the sticking as it is the warping; keeping it flat is a bitch and a half.

>>1855056
wee bit too hot boiyo

So I had my bed not quite perfectly leveled so one side was just a hair too high up, causing the first layer to kind of just smear. After removing the part there's still some left and I can't quite scratch it up. Some of it came off with other prints that went over it, but short of just printing a sheet over it to hopefully peel it off, is there any easy way of getting it off?

It's PLA filament on the Ender 3 Pro magnetic bed.

Also is there anything bad about letting the feed well click and slip? I haven't gotten a jam yet and the first half of the roll went through without a problem, so my settings can't be too far off but it's starting to happen now. I'll pull a tiny bit out and the print doesn't seem to suffer, but it starts slipping again a minute later. Fiddled with my feed rate and that didn't seem to do anything.

>>1854866
Treat it as battle damage and paint accordingly

>>1855100
Don't scratch it, level your bed properly, print over the area and after a few printovers it will be gone

>>1855100
>is there anything bad about letting the feed well click and slip?
You have a developing clog, do the hotend fix, use these: thing:4220059 and thing:3236093

>>1855111
So what's the benefit of doing that vs just using all capricorn tubing? He mentions the tighter internal diameter of capricorn but doesn't really explain why that's bad.

>try my hand at painting a resin print
>water down acrylic paint
>turns out im retarded and cant keep paint consistent thickness and completely in the fine areas
not for me i guess

>>1855144
It can't be just any old acrylic paint. Paints meant for models/miniatures have higher concentrations of pigment and finer sizes of the pigment particles. If you try to water down something like those cheap Apple Barrel paints or poster paints, you'll get shit results.

>>1855109
Figured as much. Maybe I should get some upgraded springs for leveling so this doesn't happen again.

>>1855111
Seems my bowden tube has been fused to the hotend, so I'm going to have to mangle it to get it out, so I might as well upgrade it. Should I just upgrade to Capricon tubing or switch to a direct feed?

>>1855147
i did just get a cheap paint set off amazon which seems like its intended from large canvas painting
im still pretty non commital as ive never been an artsy person so spending a lot of money on something like this could easily turn into a huge waste
based on some quick searches the cheapest stuff i could find is a "reaper learn to paint" kit for around 50usd, is thatwhere i should start?

>>1855152
Direct feed is a hassle and will introduce more problems since you are multiplying the moving mass on the X-axis.
Do a hot pull first, then after removing the PTFE tube do a cold pull with a piece of filament to properly clean your hotend, this way you might not have to mangle the tube.
Also installing Capricorn tube is a good idea, but try keeping the original intact, who knows when you will need it.

>>1855159
Probably. If it's pic related, I know I have several paints from a set of theirs I got from a friend and they're pretty good. Reaper's decent, but I prefer Vallejo personally. Citadel / Games Workshop paints are in the same class but more expensive and generally not worth it unless you want a very specific colour. (The) Army Painter brand paints are kind of crap. If I were you I'd go down to your local hobby store (not something like a Michael's, I mean the places where they sell Magic cards and Warhammer kits) and the people there are usually knowledgeable and can help you get started. Beware of the upsell, though; at the very least, you'll need a couple of brushes (they can run ~$3-5 per, you'll probably want one large and one small), a primer (Rustoleum 2X works great, from a home improvement store, or I can vouch personally for Vallejo's surface primer), and obviously the paints themselves.

I don't want to overload you with info and stuff but this is just one of those things where it's best to go in prepared so you don't get discouraged and never try it again.

>>1855159
And if it's any consolation, you might be bad for a long time before you start getting good, so don't be discouraged by a few false starts.

>>1855256
awesome thanks for the info
>>1855257
yea i didnt expect much, but i still dissapointed myself and gave up quickly. Im gunna buy some propper supplies and try again soon. I do seem to have trouble completely steadying my hand, im not sure if thats because im unpracticed and holding the brush/model wrong or just a motor defficiancy. It also really didnt help that it was a failed print, with improperly applied primer(cracks everywhere) with non ideal tool set. Ill see how I go, thanks for the encouragement

>>1855262
where did you get the model from?

I'm trying to print a few dice to use as masters for casting, but they keep turning out slightly warped, with the sides being slightly rhomboid and sometimes at a slight angle.
My printer is a Photon and I'm using the Anycubic White Resin and the settings I've come up with so far are pic related.
The dice are supported and angled with a corner pointing straight down. I'm guessing maybe that the layers are underexposed and the whole thing gets warped while being pulled off the print bed, so maybe cranking up exposure time would fix it? It's not like there are a lot of details to lose on a die.

>>1855268
not 1855262 but its FDM compatible https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-rei-ayanami-neon-gensis-evangelion-40-cm-figurine-78864

I'm assuming this is an under extrusion issue? It only happened on this side of the hull. Rest of the print looks perfect with maybe a little issue by the door.

>>1854869
>Hotglue
terrible suggestion

>>1855410
the layer has to start and stop somewhere. that's the where.

>>1855418
Do you not know what "hotgluing" means

>>1855159
it's paint by numbers, artistic talent not required. get the reaper set, paint the minis according to instructions. good brushes, good paints and thin your paints. the reaper models with the kit have the benefit of not needing to be primed so it's one less thing you can fuck up. there is a ton to learn, but it's fun as fuck.

also unsmoothed PLA is notoriously hard to paint, even after priming it seems like everything turns to shit. I know you put shit paint on good resin, but just an FYI putting good paint on shit PLA also doesn't work well.

>>1855425
they banned that sub

>>1855425
it was too early for my mind to go there god dammit anon

>>1855431
What?

>>1855431
go back

>>1853120
I got a Photon S first and loved it. The Mars is "easier" to level, kind of cool watching it spring the platform. It sort of reminds me of my Lulzbot Mini.

I like Chitubox better than Photon Workshop. Right now CB can't save .pws files for the Photon. The difference isn't huge but I think that Chitubox is easier to use.

I would just look at which one has a lower price when you want to pull the trigger.

>>1855410
It is called z-seam. Entirely normal, google it.

>>1854478
Try drying your filament. 140F for 14 hours in a dehydrator, or put the roll in a gallon ziplock and fill with rice for a week.

>>1854868
Did you not physically unplug the printer before swapping stuff?

Because you should have.

>>1855262
Bro why is she cracked all over the place

just printed a heat tower and had the best results in the 180-195 range with epsun's pla+, just seems to be so weird to me because all the guides/videos tell you to be printing pla+ at 205/210
should i just try a print with ~180 or what?

>>1855689
I didn't, I assumed the PSU wouldn't just send any sort of power while in the off state. Plus it's grounded when plugged in, though I guess that doesn't matter too much.

In any case if anybody still cares >>1854868 I swapped cables around and the motor's fine, it's just the cable that doesn't work. So I'm gonna have to figure out whether I fucked it up somehow. Maybe get a new one if I can't find any problems, since I don't have a crimping tool to just re-make the plug.

>>1855056
Decrease temp by 5 degrees, check your fan settings if it is PLA try 100%, add 0.5 to your retraction

>>1855100
There's either a clog or the screw at the pivot point for the idler pulley holding the filament against the gear is either too tight andspaced too far away, or it is too loose and gets pushed away from the gear.

>>1855144
Try getting a paint that has MEK in it, that seems to work well for me. I prime the prints with a gray MEK spray primer first and use the corner of a shop towel to dab at the fine areas (face, fingers, armor chains, handels, etc.) to make sure the primer doesn't fill in detail.

Miguel Zavala is getting better every day.

So after two months of waiting I finally got my prusa i3, only for the knob to stop functioning in the middle of calibration. Has anyone else had this issue? The knob is stuck in the "in" position and can't be clicked.

>>1855809
shoulda bought and Ender...

so far, so good with the monoprice select mini. The only thing I am really wishing I had was a great auto-leveling system. I have it almost good, but i don't even want to think about it. Will look into better printers in the future. It's my first printer and I'm pretty shocked what you can get for the price.

>>1855828
oh also I accidentally got 1kg of PETG instead of PLA. Am I fucked or can I manage this? Looks like I just need to up the temp

Are there any decent thermistors for the ender 3 that aren't cheap shit glass beads that just sort of 'sit' in the hotend?

I want to be able to measure my hotend as accurately as possible. The stock one seems to have a range of +/-10C no matter how well I get the bead to sit in the hotend.

>>1855828
>>1855830
and all my PLA is printing great, making a dragon now.

>>1855832
buy a new hotend for 10 bucks mate

>>1855830
PETG is more difficult to print than PLA but is superior in almost all other regards. Consider it a blessing, not a fuckup.

You will need to raise the nozzle a bit though. PETG is sticky as fuck and you don't need to 'smoosh' it like you do with PLA/ABS. Otherwise it will stick to the nozzle and eventually ruin your print.

>>1855834
I got a dope microswiss hotend already. I don't need a hotend. I need a fucking decent thermistor.

>>1855835
I read up on the specs and heard that i need to lower the bed and raise the temp. I just don't want to push my cheap monoprice too hot. But I'll give it a shot and report back.

>>1855836
>dope microswiss

>>1855840
Thanks for agreeing anon :)

>>1855832
Sorry guys I'm retarded turns out I just needed to do a PID autotune I'm all good

>ender 8bit board cant store marlin2 mesh leveling
>"""""marlin is bloat""""" despite being the only verson that removes features from the binary
>/3dpg/ says autotune is bloat, so it has to be true!
>"thermister is shit"
>runs autotune
>not shit anymore
how do enderfags even?

>>1855876
wait someone thought removing comments would save memory?

>>1855877
yes

>>1855809
shoulda bought a stratasys

So yeah, dryboxes are extremely important. Honestly I could've made my own but I was lazy and stuck in the middle of the woods so I just ordered a Polybox, which looks pretty nice. To my surprise, the initial humidity of my polybox was 35%! After a full day, it went to a nice 10%.
Here's a comparison I made. Same printer, settings and filament, the only difference was having it 5 days in the box.
There's still some issues though, the filament just gets too tight and I guess the extra strain is enough for my printer to not move in exact coordinates, I already designed a guide so it starts pulling the filament in a more vertical direction.

Going to swap out the LM8UU bearings on my printer with some higher quality ones i got free at work.
What's the best grease or oil to use with them? I've seen some people pack them with white lithium, and others just use plain sewing machine oil.

>>1855908
wtf anon. are my prints so nice because I live in natty 10% humidity?

>>1855943
dielectric or silicone, depending on what you have or risk of ruining a silicone tool in the future
plastic bushings do better & longer with silicone tho, I've used both and silicone has kept the same set in for years now with no wear or dust collection

>>1855944
no, i live in natty 70%. as long as you keep doors/windows closed where you print, shits fine.

resinchads win again

>>1856031
you cant even prime our models correctly, it's chipping on the bottom

>>1855878
>the forum poster is a prusalet
Like poetry.

>>1856048
>FolgerTech clone
>prusa
anon...

>>1856031

>paint chipping
>thick primer coat
>Obvious cracks in base
>didn't even clean the prints properly

>>1856049
o shit I'm brain damaged then, didn't sleep all night

>>1856029
But it can also mean that his filament isn't as sensible to exposure.

>>1856050
FDMlets may not post on resinchad posts

>>1855944
Could be, but it takes most plastics a long time to absorb water. Nylon is the worst and you need like a vacuum to get it really dry

https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?147,859857,page=1
would you?

>>1856139
>supports MKS genL
Installing.
https://github.com/gloomyandy/RepRapFirmware/wiki/MKS-SGen-L-Wifi

>>1856031
always hated how fig models always look like short stubby children...

>>1855944
I live in ~30%-50% depending on time of year, and I've used year-old pla to get prints that look like the ones on the right. I have never bothered with a drybox or even bags or baking filament or whatever.

>>1856150
I gotcha famalam

>>1856265
samepic, still shit like last thread

>>1856266
FDMlets need not post

>>1856276
your bases are literally FDM

>>1856142
What does this mean? I'm sorry, I'm thinking about building my own 3d printer but I'm kind of new in this.
I already have a 3d printer so I thought why not make one from scratch and then have 2.

>>1856278
>FDM bottom to resin
as it should be, fdmpleb

So I have the chance to work with a jewlery company which has industrial grade 3d printers.
The thing is, I don't know shit about industrial 3d printers, I got referred by the dude who the company asked initially, he couldn't because he's working in another country. He told me it's just troubleshooting and optimizing the printers and making sure the prints are nice.
What do?

>>1856281
This is not for you... unless you have a spare controller for modification and testing,
unlike marlin/klipper based firmware, reprapfirmware is entirely controlled by gcode, updates on the fly, and the codebase is amazingly expandable for what it can do; extra steppers, expanded trinamic features, can bus, CNC spindle controls, custom motion systems (haqxy, SCARA, multigantry corexyuvab, ect), true automated bed levelling, dynamic acceleration (for removing ringing artifacts), ect. There is an entire web interface, SDcard management and monitoring setup within the coprocessor so (no pi is needed) to handle all the extra crap that slows down marlin printers.
Duet boards are $100+ for even clones since you have to pay for all the high current steppers in addition to the board itself, so being able to upgrade an existing platform to reprapfirmware with an ESP8266 as the coprocessor and choose your own steppers means you can install a professional/industrial controller firmware on more open hardware, and somehow even some 8bit boards.
I moved from a MKS in my kit to a smoothie SKR(returned when duet went on sale for $100 a few years back) (and now a full-on duet 2). Since I have a compatible controller I want to see how an 8 bit board handles RRF3.1.
This is still in super jank territory so it's not as good as just buying a 32bit controller. I need to find an I3 clone frame on Craigslist or something to try it out.

>>1856293
So I should just forget about it and aim for a 32bit controller? Any recs?

>>1856294
well the SKR 1.4 would work, there're sets on amazon with a full kit of TMC2209 steppers for ~$50 but if you source your own trinamic+normal drivers you could probably make one for ~40 or even ~20 if you already have them.

>>1856072
I bet you don't even thin your paints fucko.

>>1856336
he doesn't (>>1848714)
>>/data/diy/img/0018/48/1592959627069.jpg

>>1856340
crop for SFW

>>1856265
>>1856341
you can still see the layer lines on your model, you cant even use the correct primer.

>>1856344
If one does not post-process their models for minis regardless of quality they're rarted. I can fucking see the support slips and the bases are laughable.

Fuck t-nuts.

>>1856347
FDMLets can't comprehend resin

make a new fucking thread

>>1856361
And the resintard can't callib his FDM printer he uses for bases.

>>1856365
FDM is for quick dirty, not quality.

>>1856402
If your printer is badly calibrated, maybe. You can get good, clean parts from FDM.

>>1856292
Do it. Ask questions here, some anon will help you.

>>1856404
>good
>clean
$200 chink knockoff delusion

>>1856421
I mean yeah if you get $200 chink knockoffs you'll get shit parts unless you spend ungodly amounts of time fiddling with it, where's the delusion?

>>1856402
>>1856421
not claiming perfection as there are clearly minor issues but compare this side to whatever the fuck your base plates are, ender 3 btw, part is 10mm high

>inb4 sparkly doesnt count

So I found out that painting small parts is literally the hardest shit in the world.

>>1856456
Learn to brace your hands properly and consider getting masking tape (they sell really thin ones) if you're wanting to paint sharp lines often. Looks reasonably clean so far though

I have a CR-10S mini. My bed started having an issue where it'd go up in heat the moment I turn it on and never stop.. I think I found the problem, but not sure how to fix. The spot I'm pointing to on the motherboard is for the nozzle and bed. I switched them, and now the nozzle is going up nonstop. So it's the motherboard most likely? Not sure what I need to replace now.

>>1856507
bad mosfet
just get an skr mini e3

>>1852286
I bought a monoprice mini delta printer. It says it has a build space of 110 mm x 110 mm x 120 mm. So I designed a model that is 12 cm tall. When I go to slice it in AstroPrint, it says the limit is 76mm tall. Can I just use a different slicing program to print it 12cm tall or do I need a bigger printer?

>Get an Ender 3 Pro
>Print happily for a week
>Start getting the feed motor slipping because the hot end is built with a gap
>Decide to do something about it and buy a few upgrades, like an auto leveling sensor
>Firmware, Bootloader, Arduino...
>Replace the Bowden tube, relevel bed, print the bracket for the auto-level sensor
>Relevel the bed again because it isn't printing right
>Relevel the bed because it still isn't printing right
>Fuck it, purple glue stick that came with a pack of filament I got
>Works
>Arduino Uno kit doesn't have the right jumpers
>Hack together the male-to-female jumpers into female-to-male-to-male-to-female and hook it up
>Switch to my laptop because you have to connect the computer to the Arduino to the Printer to do the thing
>Bootloader won't burn
>Change 30 to 20
>Bootloader won't burn
>Change Programmer
>Bootloader won't burn
...

I really am a failure and am just whining in this thread because I can't be assed to write a suicide note because I'd probably fuck that up too and then fuck up the suicide as well.

>>1856685
>calibrate build plate
>pour resin into vat
>print
boy it sure is good to be a resin chad

>>1856685
just buy a SKR mini e3

>>1856687
I'm sure I'd fuck that up in some absurd way.

>>1856689
I've sunk about that much into trying to get this shit to work and aren't quite ready to double my losses just to fuck up installing a new board.

>>1856462
Apparently masking tape doesn't stick to acrylic. Definitely something to keep in mind. I was able to freehand it though and clean it up.

>>1856713
It should, masking tape is very often used to cover edges when cutting acrylic and in scale modeling to mask areas for airbrushing; there's a whole market for different small widths. Maybe your roll's old and the adhesive has started to deteriorate?

>>1856830
No idea. I just had a roll of blue painters tape that isn't old. It wouldn't stick to the black acrylic paint at all.

>>1855877
Did this dumbass really leave the power cord plugged in when messing with this?

>>1856456
Don't use your wrist for motion, use your whole arm while using your elbow as the pivot. This will give you way more stability.
I guess it's because we're taught to write but never really taught how to draw. How you handle a pencil, brush, etc is one of the first things I was taught in my product desing classes.

Guys, if you have no IPA or anything like that at all, could you make do with just rigorous rinsing with water?

>>1856895
you can buy pale ale at any trader joe's anon
(get ethanol, it'll work better than water)

R E S I N C H A D S

>>1856895
Denatured alcohol or methilated spirits also works well. Those can be bought at any corner shops.

>>1856899
Did you rub it in the dirt before printing or is the surface finish is so shitty of resin prints?

>>1856899
Also >2610x4640
Learn to dowsize your shitty photos, retard

>>1856901
thicc primer

I can sense your jealously thru you 0.2mm layer lines

How to make my own 3d gloop for PLA parts, guys?

>>1856903
>spending on a resin printer so your final results end up looking like cheap epoxy

>>1856909
filler primer and paint look better
takes the same effort too

>>1856903
oh so THAT'S why the primer was chipping

>>1856923
The thing is that I have a wood filament and I want the material to show. Sanding like cray I guess.

>>1856933
there's paintable wood-based sand filler for floors and tables, but you might have to make your own with fine sawdust for color matching though, it'll take up stain too.

>>1856936
sandable*

>>1856936
Yeah, that just seems like an extra layer of effort when I'm gonna have to sand it anyways. Thanks for the help though.

>>1856938
Well I've found cheap hobby/modeling files will help with your grind. gunks up with primer @ high humidity though

what's the best way to get a single part Printed for under 50 bucks

>>1856956
university or library printers
talk to the head guy in the printing lab, work out a discount if you want, you could probably get a free part if it's not for profit/fun

>>1856956
What's the quality level and size that you need. FDM printers have a very low material cost (resin has also gone down in price but needs post-processing which will increase the price if you have somebody else make the print for you).

>>1855061
https://youtu.be/6f_En50U4P8

>>1856927
>doesn't understand how light works

stick to your plastic stacking :^)

Tired as fuck of leveling my poverty Ender 3 printer's bed, even with the stiffer springs.

Anyone here do a double locknut instead of the springs?

>>1856899
>>1856903
>>1856927

resin faggots who make anime waifu figurines are the bane of 3D printing

>>1856685
This is based as fuck if you actually enjoy learning deeply about 3D printers and general engineering concepts. I've learned so much from troubleshooting, modding and changing parts on my Ender 3. Stuff that stuck with me and actually helps in my career.

If you don't enjoy the tinkering side of things, you should honestly just stop fucking with the printer and try to sell it, then buy an easier plug-and-play printer. The newer prusa's are pretty braindead out of the box, and the community is a bit larger.

>>1853743
>>1853775
don't forget the intentional focus blur on the part he ended up using lol

>>1857074
What else are you gonna use resin for? Or 3d printers in general.

>>1857074
Ironically it's just one dude who shitposts all the time because he's incredibly bitter.
People also hate him over in /tg/wip/.
He doesn't know how to use his printer, how to prime his models and how to paint in general.
Pic related is mine, posted that a while ago on /wip/ and haven't finished him yet.
I'll upload the files if anyone wants them.

>>1857089
80% useful shit
20% for the lulz

Within 3 month my photon paid itself from doing tiny jobs. I havent had any paid work for my FDM tho.

Other than paid prints, i did jigs for cmm and other equipment, unique sample holders, test fit pieces before i print it from metal, and of course replacements for broken shit all around.

>>1857101
Thats bretty good

>>1856899

buy tamiya fucking primer.

>>1857101
>literally two colors
>simple meme geometry
Don't kid yourself, bong

>>1857072
I'm going to try out some of those silicone spacers. I'll tell you if they work better.

>>1857083
I would love this if it was actually logical problems. First it was giving me chip check errors because the Uno clone I got just happens to be the one chip no one knows about and now it's flashing the whole firmware then failing after it writes because it thinks it's not plugged in. From every google search of similar problems the solution has been something almost as retarded as switching which sock is on which foot when you hit upload.

Right now I'm dreading tilting it over again to get to the board and just starting from the top again, maybe use my Pi as the bootloader, but I'm the embodiment of Murphy's Law and failure that I couldn't even get RetroPi to work right and can't get OctoPrint to even show up on my network.

Fuck.

>>1856991
>What's the quality level and size that you need.
on the site it claims that the piece needs a resolution of 0,2 or lower and 20% infill as for size it's about 50mm*50mm*40mm

Resin folks, is the smell permissable in the same office I paint minis in or is it heinous anus room unuseable for a day

considering a elegoo mars but I live in a 2 bedroom appt

>>1857120
What are you even trying to say? I'm just having some fun when I find the time.
I'm not British btw, I'm from Europe.

New Thread
>>1857148

>>1857101
Files for Gondola would be great and appreciated

>>1857161
I'll post them into the follow up thread in a few hours.

>>1853087
lmao look at the base
look at the base and laugh

>>1857234
I didn't even notice, Jesus Christ.

>>1853087
Got the STL file?

>>1856031
What the hell happened to her base?

>>1856897
>>1856900
Thanks, I was almost gonna use cooking wine, but I found someone selling those hand rub things for cheap and got it delivered within an hour.

>>1857434
>>1856895
https://formlabs.com/blog/alternate-wash-solutions/
https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-right-wash-solvent?language=en_US

>>1853871
What’s your layer height?

>>1855830
Don’t use it on a heavily textured print bed or you’ll never get it off. Otherwise up the nozzle and bed temp: Gucci.

>>1857322
Reused it from an old miniature