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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1829875 No.1829875 [Reply] [Original]

There is a 3+ inch void under my driveway and a sunken walkway. Had a polyurethane company give me a quote of 3400 for raising walkway and filling in void below driveway. I would rather do it myself if possible. Is it even possible to fill in the void without specialized equipment?

>> No.1829877
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>> No.1829879
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>> No.1829884
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Walkway into the house is sunken as well. I am going to have to regrade the yard to make sure this doesn't happen again.

>> No.1830015

>>1829875
Kill the fucking chipmunks first.

>> No.1830029

>>1829875
>>1829884
Stuffing the void is a short term solution, if you're going to go through the effort of regrading your yard, you should also repour the driveway.

>> No.1830050

>>1830029
This. And it probably wouldn’t cost much more than what the poly dudes quoted you.

>> No.1830060

>>1830050
>the poly dudes
Buy a case of polyurethane caulk and a 3/4” concrete drill from HD, total cost $100.

>> No.1830095

>>1830029
>>1830050
Thanks, that's what I've been leaning towards. I think we may just minimize erosion by regrading yard and save up to repour driveway when it cracks or settles

>> No.1830170

You're going to have to hack up a solution. Best I got is sticking in a long metal about halfway in, and sealing the other end into a big funnel you can pour cement into. You're going to be making an extremely fine solution using fine sand, which isn't cheap compared to what you'd normally be using (large aggregate) but it should be good enough.

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>>1829875
This thread is full of so much wrong it's not funny.

>>1830060
Single component caulking is to multicomponent jacking compound what a hammer drill is to a boring rig. Don't waste your time on this ffs.

Poly is expensive, look for a local mudjacking company that uses good ole grout. It's more than fine for a driveway, and a lot cheaper. If you can figure out a way to build a DIY grout pump then you can just use high flow grout (same as used for post-tensioning cable pockets). This is a perfectly legitimate solution as mudjacking has been proven effective for like 100 years.

>>1830029
This is basically the proper solution, and make sure this time to get proper compaction of your footing with the right material and edge grading so it doesn't erode.

>> No.1831366

>>1829875
3400$ would buy that driveway+to front door 5inch thick with reebar here
What the fuck

>> No.1831410

Maybe I'm missing something but, I'd lift the slaps, get a ton of sand and grav, spread it, compact it, layer of concrete put the slabs back down.
Not including the hire of a Wacker it would be under £100

>> No.1831455

>>1831410
How are you going to lift 20,000 lbs driveway for under £100

>> No.1831458

why do anything? fill the edges with dirt and build a concrete step for the walkway. wait until retirement. have the moving van park on the street ;) and tell the new owners good luck!

>> No.1831823

>>1831366
Companies are scammers, what's new?

>> No.1831863

>>1829875
fucking faggots never tamping shit
TAMP THE FUCKING DIRT DUMBASSES

>> No.1831932

>>1831455
The slab seems about 10cm thick, so each slab is a couple tons at most.

Still unless you start doing sketchy shit with a gantry crane, machinery to lift it isn't going to be cheap.

>> No.1833897

>>1831932
The driveway is all one piece, those joints are put in after it is all poured onto rebar with the idea that if it cracks, it will crack at the joints but just because it's cracked doesn't mean it's entirely separated. Based on OP's voids, if the driveway was in separate pieces it would be ridiculously warped and some parts would have sunken in.

If you were to lift out the slabs, as you say, you would first have to cut the driveway and then the problem will be putting the driveway back together straight. There is a reason you never see people remove only chunks of their driveway, with the intent to put them back.