/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Get a Ryobi drill and impact driver kit.

Kobalt 6 piece kit for under $250 is a good start for someone who is starting out. I

hilti or festool if you want to be even remotely successful.

Thanks for the response guys! Really big help! Something affordable would be much preferred actually! Any suggestions on which model specifically for the Ryobi drill and impact driver?

>>1818878
Get used corded gear for pennies. Get more tools. Do more stuff.

You can get the ryobi kit for $150, or you can get corded versions of

-drill
-bunch of drill bits
-sawsall
-circular saw and blades
-extension cords
-probably something else
-hammer, pliers, ratchet, etc

Save the vanity buy for fathers day or some crap.

>>1818878
Whatever Ryobi combo kit the Depot is hawking for $99.

Got my FIL a set years ago and he loves it.

>>1818884
nope,you should be burned at the stake.

>>1818872
>memes and marketing

>>1818870
this

>>1818863
Brand does not matter that much (ok it does, but they're all basically ok for the price) but DO get 18v brushless.

>>1818884
Great advise for hand tools and stationary electric tools. Some slow evolving stuff like routers. Definetly wouldn't buy a drill 2nd hand unless it's a drill press.
People only sell tools if it's standing in the way (which only applies to stationary) they're shady drug addicts, or their husband just died (which is great for stuff that hardly evolves which is again mostly stationary equipment)

my dad gifted me a smaller one. its way more practicable, the smaller battery wasnt an issue since, even tho i made a lot of projects already.
Like this one but with a bit more power https://www.bosch-diy.com/de/de/p/easydrill-1200-06039d3001-v48497

>>1818863
corded drill from harbor freight
one of the ones with the metal gearbox
cost me like 20-30bux and ive had mine for a decade now, no problems at all

>>1818863
18V Ryobi drill+impact kit is probably best value for money, Makita/Dewalt/Milwaukee are all slightly better, about the same price range and quality in the US. Don't go out of your way to buy brushless, but do look for the kit with the biggest possible batteries, unless you intend to carry the tool around a lot, in which case you should be buying 12V tools anyway.

>>1818863
Don’t forget about a hammer drill function. You might need to shell out an extra $50, but if you ever want to hang a light on somebody’s concrete exterior wall, a regular drill won’t do shit.

Get a quality drill/driver combo if you can afford it. I have Makita and would recommend them to anyone. Don't get cheap corded stuff unless you're really poor. If you're going for cordless keep in mind once you have batteries you're going to want to keep buying the same brand for new stuff

>>1818863
as long as you realize that once you commit to a battery, youre going to want to buy all the tools to go with it so you dont have a bunch of different chargers and batteries around.

beyond that, figure out what you are going to do with it. drills are more versatile than impact drivers but having both are nice. do you need hammer funtion? i wouldnt want my hammer drill as my only drill since its heavier which sucks after a while.

if its just around the house small projects id probably go ryobi. if youre going to do any serious projects (deck, shed, fence, etc) id probably go makita or milwaukee

Realistically, any drill you buy today will be fine.

Personally, I think it’s worth it to buy once cry once to get started into a premium brand like Milwaukee or Makita. It’s the base for your most useful tools. Trust me, cordless is better than corded for just about everything these days including power.

So what's the difference between corded and cordless? What are the cons for having a corded drill and what are the cons for having a cordless one?

>>1819187
tool batteries are a fucking rip off that companies use to fuck your wallet in the ass, but if im drilling a hole in my cars frame a corded drill isnt practical

>>1819187
Price and longevity
Cordless are vastly more expensive and the batteries do not last forever. And the batteries are prohibitively expensive to buy.
Its a HP Printer and Ink pricing gimmick. The drills arent sold at markups, but the batteries are. and you WILL need to buy new batteries. At which point youll feel like you might as well just buy a whole new drill, making you spend more money.
Cordless is more convenient because no cord, but way less convenient if the battery is dead.

The big problem with corded drills, is that companies dont make premium ones because they want to sell battery powered ones as a business decision.

Want a generic drill that will last you decades of light use?
DWD115K

>>1819187
Cordless drills actually see some improvements in design, whereas corded are pretty much the same thing for the past 30 years. A cordless drill driver usually has
>two speeds
>adjustable clutch for driving screws
>hammer function (not great, up to about 1/2/12mm, for small jobs)
>built in light
>very high torque in low gear
while a corded drill has
>pull the trigger and the drill starts turning
>maybe a hammer function, not any better than the cordless
In terms of longevity, brushless motors in cordless drills are theoretically much better, while all corded drills are brushed, but I really don't think this matters, everything else on the drill will fail much sooner than the motor.
Also, the cheapest of cheap cordless drills (ie Black & Decker, Ikea, et cetera, anything under $100) are terribly built and come with awful batteries, will fail very quickly. Ryobi, Ridgid, et cetera and everything above will be reasonably well made, come with good quality batteries, and is very unlikely to fail on you.

Cordless tools are a much bigger investment because for convenience's sake you'll always want to have at least as many batteries as you have tools, and each (big) battery will cost at least $60, but they're also extremely convenient to use, especially the cordless drills. Anyone who can afford a cordless drill and doesn't use one is a complete retard. But if you have no tools whatsoever, and a very low budget, then getting a significantly cheaper corded drill, angle grinder, circ saw, and maybe even a cheap welder for the same investment is probably the better choice.

>>1819239
>and each (big) battery will cost at least $60,

The 5a M18 battery is $99
A two pack is 180.

>>1819247
"at least". If you get a really good black Friday deal, then they're about there. Alternatively, aftermarket batteries cost around $40-50 for 5Ah, and they're good enough for a drill or a driver.

>>1818899
No it's not! I'll have you no I'm a professional wood worker and I sucked before I bought festool. That shit is like magic, everything thing is perfect ly square it even drives screws and nails better.

>>1819273
Kek

>>1819239
> because for convenience's sake you'll always want to have at least as many batteries as you have tools

Wat

>>1819305
I used to think that. But there are cordless tools I own only because they’re convenient, not because I use them often. They don’t need to sit around with batteries in them slowly draining.

Dawg, corded drills aren't seen on job sites anymore. If he wants corded, recommend a drill press from grizzly or some brand.

Kobalt really is the best performance by dollar. Batteries are affordable too. Look at the xtr comparisons on YouTube. Only the top of the line Milwaukee can beat them.

If you recommend him ryobi you guys doing him dirty.

>>1818872
mentioning Hilti on a "diy" board should be a bannable offense.

>Better than you need tier:
Hilti, Mac, Fein, Festool/Protool, Ingersol Rand, Snap On, Professional Panasonics, Nemo Underwater

> "Good drill" tier
Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Blue Bosch, Hitatchi, Metabo

>"high end home-use" tier
24v Kobalt, Ridgid

>good enough for around the house tier
Ryobi, porter cable, black and decker, craftsman, Worx, 20v Kobalt, Stanley

>Chinese flea market tier
Chicago Electric, Wen, Hercules, Bauer, Earthquake

>literally who tier
Greenworks, Genesis, Rockwell, Triton, everything else

corded drills are trash, there is a reason you only ever see them being used on job sites to mix up buckets of mud. find me a corded drill with a half inch keyless metal chuck, adjustable clutch, work light, hammer drill mode, 2 speed modes, weighs 2lbs, less than 7" long and fits in a toolbelt with a cord with infinite range, then we will talk.

>>1819339
but that would mean he would have to shop at Lowes, i wouldnt mistreat someone like that.

>>1819340
Id never buy a regular Hilti cordless drill.

Love their SDS drills, sure, but they’re regular cordless are kinda lame.

>>1819305
>>1819322
For the tools that you use often, you want to have a battery in them. I have a drill, random orbit sander, angle grinder, sawzall, and some gardening tools, and 5 batteries. The gardening tools obviously don't need to have batteries in them at all times, but the other 4 do, I reach for them often and it'd be a hassle to be having to swap the same 2 batteries around. Though I make my own batteries so they're a lot cheaper than buying them at $100.

>>1819412
My shop runs sanders 40+ hours a week. It was better for us to buy pneumatic Mirkas. 9 times out of 10 if I’m getting out an orbital it’s for at least an afternoon of use.

I’d like a cordless angle grinder but again 95% of its use is in the welding shop and that other 5% hasn’t justified the purchase yet. I don’t need to carry around a grinder like I do a drill.

>>1819422
I'm just a /diy/er so they don't see anywhere near that much use, for use like that, corded or pneumatic is definitely better. The sander runs about 30-40 minutes on a 5Ah battery. Cordless angle grinder is great for small jobs, if you just need to cut a couple things. They're fine for cutting with thin discs, but for grinding they're definitely pretty weak, and it drains the battery very quickly also, something like 10 minutes of grinding on 5Ah.

ill add my opinion, my father in law is a contractor, 60, and has all DeWalt/Hitachi for nailgund and saws. we just did a project at my house and a deck in a month will be next.

>>1818872
festool is the best but their tools cost way more than they're actually worth.
>>1818863
been an independent carpenter for like 10 years and I've got dewalt for everything, and most other carpenters I know also only use dewalt. I'm not an expert on the actual difference between different brands, but this "start with the hobby shit and then move on to the professional ones" is bullshit. once you've built up an x amount of batteries and chargers for one brand you'll never switch because then you'll have to buy all new batteries and chargers again

>>1818872
>watches a DIY youtuber once

>>1819545
Some Festool I think are worth it, like the track saw and the domino joiner. Their cordless drills however are for fanboys

Don't even bother with a drill unless you get it in a combo deal, just get an impact and if you need to drill buy a set of bits that have the driver connections on the end. Rigid, Dewalt, makita or milwaukee

>>1819549
I actually do have a 15 year old festool tracksaw and vacuum cleaner I got from my dad and it still works great. I haven't tried a dewalt tracksaw but I remember my dad saying that at the time of purchase, the festool tracksaw and vacuum were the only tracksaw and vacuum cleaner to buy.
I rarely use the vacuum now though since even the bags for it are overpriced

>>1819549
NA AH!! you guys are stupid. I bet you dont even DIY.

>>1819577
Course I DIY, with MILWAUKEE FUEL

FIGHT ME YOU FESTOL QUEER

>>1818884
I collect used corded gear (portabands, Hole Hawg, angle grinders, die grinders drills) as many of them have much more torque and/or turn higher RPM than cordless versions and take more abuse without shutting down. There is no equivalent of a Milwaukee 5196 or a cordless match to 6" or larger corded angle grinders for my use (I have both, used appropriately).

I have plenty of cordless (and pneumatic) tools too but take full advantage of every option. I work mostly with metal so the extra power is a bonus. I also have a large inverter to run corded tools off my truck. My Skil worm drive corded saw is decades old and a beast.

Cords really bother autspergtards but I'll use either and don't much care. Of course on a roof etc I prefer cordless or for minor shit around the house but it's far from critical.

I quit worrying about battery families and buy whatever tool interests me with sufficient batteries to last as I desire. Best battery quality I've seen is the ancient 28V Milwaukees. They were built before the company sold out and my most recent batteries from 2011 are still good. Not worth buying more of same but they were very well made, especially the recip saw which is a match to my corded version.

>>1819606
the Milwaukee V28/M28 tools were meant to be commercial level heavy duty tools to compete with brands like Hilti to take heavy job site abuse. the line had a limited selection and is pretty much dead now but they are still sold on some websites, especially the batteries since the tools themselves were built to run forever.

What's the best Makita impact/hammer for electrical work? Mostly residential, I cannot see the difference between the 6 different drills tbqh

>>1819686
get their middle-of-the-road brushless set, its built well enough for everyday use but wont break the bank. there are heavier duty sets out there as well as the sub-compact black drills but this set has all the power that you need and has 4.0ah batteries to run beffier tools like saws and grinders as needed.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-Hammer-Drill-and-Impact-Driver-Combo-Kit-2-Tool-w-2-4Ah-Batteries-Case-XT269M/207054643

if you want to go exotic Makita makes a 4-mode Hybrid Brushless Impact Hammer Drill/Driver, which has the functions of both in one tool. not cheap but convenient when you can go in carrying one tool instead of a whole bag of drills and batteries.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-Hybrid-4-Function-Impact-Hammer-Driver-Drill-Tool-Only-XPT02Z/301827828

>>1819707
Sounds like a plan, are the 36v tools a meme or practical? The idea of having a 36v sawzall is pretty enticing

>>1819686
I got the XPH07Z to replace/supplement the standard brushed drill that came with my kit for putting in anchors and furring on concrete.

It is insanely powerful. I once used an auger bit to drill some 1" holes in 6x6s. It got caught on a knot or something and nearly separated my shoulder. When I looked at the bit it literally uncurled the twist out of it. Wish I took picks.

>>1819727
Holy shit, I'm still a babby and the kickback from my dewalt hammer drill fuckin kills me sometimes, its just a homeowner model too

>>1819187
Biggest problem with corded is having to lug around extension cords, because you'll never be working within range of plugs. You'll constantly pull on the cord just enough to unplug it and end up incredibly pissed off.

The biggest problem with cordless is your battery will die in the middle of a job and you'll have to search the 7th layer of Hell to find where you left the charger and spare battery.

>>1819708
I have the Makita electric chainsaw, bought after shoulder replacement surgery. Works very well unlike the DeWalt which smoked. I got it with their angle grinder which I converted to a 6" guard (cut two guards, use Makita clamp and 6" random guard welded to same) and use it daily. I'll buy more Makitas and have never had a bad one, their corded angle grinders being uniformly excellent.

>>1818863

>Either DeWalt, Makita or Milwaukee are what you should buy.
>Research which lineup (i.e. which color) you like best ‘cause it’ll be harder to switch the deeper you get
>Buy 18v over 12v. The latter is mostly fine for DIY, but you’ll be fucked on the day you need more power.

Also try and buy tools in a kit; it’s cheaper that way. Milwaukee currently has an 18v brushless drill, impact and two batteries for $200.

>>1819746
I think im gonna switch, bought the dewalt hammer/impact combo in dec. and the hammers already shitting itself at going through 3 2x4s.

>>1819729
You don't know kickback until you snag an auger bit using something like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDfzEG_4htI

>>1819789
fuck that, i don't even like using skil saws when they buck

>>1819555
You can't really drill steel with an impact

>>1819708
I would still go corded for anything above 18v, bit I guess that's personal preference. How much do you use the stuff, how often is that outside your shed, how long at a tim etc.

>>1819708
I have the 18V sawzall and I don't think it's lacking power, it's rated at some 500W.

>>1819555
>Don't even bother with a drill
Worst advice ITT.

I'm really happy with my hitachi gear for home/hobby use and would buy again. I've got a G12 grinder and DV18DGL drills. I've used them for throwing fasteners and drilling holes into wood, plastic, light metals etc. The drill I've had a few years now, since 2014 and one battery has failed. I've picked up two more batteries and a second drill body on sale $99 so I don't have to keep swapping out bits on projects so I'm committed now.

Why did I pick it? Bigger (pro) chuck size compared to other DIY spec at that price point. Brushless, brake, nice moulding/feel. The brake is a little irritating at high speeds as it'll sometimes loosen the chuck, but it is a cordless drill and for me high speed drilling of thicker steel etc is fairly uncommon.

I've taken it apart to fix a minor trigger issue and inside it is all fairly nice. All the wiring is neat, decent gauge, lugged, taped. I feel it is serviceable, but even if not a new body is under $40.

The chuck on my OG one is a bit worn and it isn't as easy to seat things without encountering some slop as I remember, but it has had quite a lot of work.

Anyway it is as nice and was a fair bit cheaper than the makita and bosch equivalents. On par with the milwaukee. The dewalt is sometimes cheaper, but I don't like the ergonomics as much, the models at the same price point seem pretty chunky and are v.plastic in comparison.

Also if you are going to do any 'serious' drilling I'd get a dedicated SDS drill for masonry. There is not one tool that is best for everything IMO. I put a new roof on my garage and had to drill the iron frame to take self tapping screws 50-60 fixings and for that job I used a cheap corded drill I'd had since I was 16 for cutting the pilots and tossed it away afterwards. The iron was old and hard and pretty much every few holes was a new bit and by the end the thing was so hot the solder was running out of it.

>>1818871
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-6-Tool-24-Volt-Max-Brushless-Power-Tool-Combo-Kit-Charger-Included-and-1-Battery-Included/1000343035

224$ All it's missing is an oscillator.

Cheapest ryobi kit is 6 tool for $300

>>1820113
>includes one battery

lol fuck that. So its more like $324 when you add on an additional two battery pack.

>>1819555
I cant believe this smooth brain got trips

>>1820113
this is a far better value
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-6-Tool-Combo-Kit-with-2-Batteries-Charger-and-Bag-P1819/309659455

>>1820132
or if you can spend a bit more, this, holy shit https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-MAX-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Combo-Kit-7-Tool-with-ToughSystem-DCKTS781D2M1/312585400?MERCH=REC-_-pipinstock-_-309659455-_-312585400-_-N

>>1820133
>6 tools, 2 shit batteries, 1 battery, $500
>5 tools, 1 shit battery, 1 battery, $300

>https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-6-Piece-Kit-Drill-Driver-Impact-Driver-Circular-Saw-Recipro-Saw-Vacuum-Light-3-0Ah-XT614SX1/312248340
>4 1/2 tools, 2 mediocre batteries, $300
Burgers always get good prices on tools, this shit would cost at least twice as much in Europe. You can barely get a decent drill+driver+battery+charger combo for $300.

>>1820138
I DONT need any more cordless right now, but those are some wild deals.

underrated brand

>>1820266
>prosumer pricing, may or may not be the same level of quality
>only some 30 tools in the battery ecosystem, half of them drills
Why buy that instead of the usual brands?

>>1820266
They were the shit in the 90's nicad days. not so much now.

Is ryobi really that low on the list?
I just bought my first house and i needed some tools for a couple of projects I want to do and the ryobi 18v was on sale so I bought like the whole ecosystem, minus the big stuff like the table saw

>>1820290
Ryobi has pretty much the largest tool ecosystem of any brand, per the list here >>1819340 they are perfect for homeowners and DIY applications, its just that you will be laughed off of a jobsite if you pull out some green tools when everyone else is using red or yellow stuff.

>>1820292
its surprising how much Ryobi I see on active sites.

>>1820295
ryobi is fine even for professional use if you dont use the hell out of it, for instance an electrician driving 30 screws a day is fine, on the other hand a fucking drywaller aint gonna be mixing mud with it.

Who's got the best impact wrench? I need something thats high torque, 1/4 drive and cordless. I don't have any other tools so I don't need to stick to one brand or another.

>>1820304
Alot of electricians have switched over to Milwaukee M12 stuff, goods built quality but compact and can be thrown into a tool bag for smaller jobs.

>>1820369
Not alot of 1/4 drive impact wrenches out there, they are mostly just impact drivers with a 1/4 square instead of a 1/4 hex chuck with around the same torque ratings.

Things step up a bit if you go to a 3/8 drive wrench, look up the "Mid-torque" impact wrenches made by Milwaukee and Ridgid.

>>1820369
Maybe the Milwaukee? I never use 1/4" drive impact sockets, dont even own any.

Milwaukee M18 Fuel

>>1820369
Shit, I mean 1/2

>>1818872

absolute memetics

>>1819803
>>1819837
>>1820127

Dumb niggers. Op is asking for a diy tool around the house, why do you need a fucking drill when an impact driver can do the same fucking thing. If you do need a drill because the impact won't cut it, which I doubt, then go buy the drill. Unless, like I said, you get a combo deal such as m12 drill/driver because that makes sense economically. It does not make sense to buy 2 expensive tools when chances are you only need 1 of them.

>>1819340
The contractor I work for leases and assigns Hilti drills to us and they’re stout as fuck. That being said I’ve brought my Ridgid impact driver and sawzalls to work and they’ve held up just fine. The Hilti has vastly better battery management though

>>1818863
Stick to Milwaukee, Makita, Dewalt. If you really get into trades type work, their additional “special tool” offerings are gonna be critical.
Ryobi falls in that category as well. They’ve got a cordless hot glue gun lmao.
The point is to be able to grow into it. Take a look at the breadth of the above brands compared to say ridgid or Harbor Freight shit.

>>1820446
an impact drive is not a substitute for a drill, and if I could only have one, I'd choose a cordless drill.

>>1820455
an impact driver can drill anything a drill can with more power

>>1820466
You’re retarded and i don’t argue with retards.

>>1820467
I don't either so watch these videos and learn something you notools nigger

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVMwp4Hm7OQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJGfl54oegQ

>>1820466
Sometimes you need less power, stupid.

>>1820486
There are dozens of big styles in hundreds of options, most don’t have a 1/4” hex shank

>>1820486
a drill press is not a cordless drill/driver you fucking idiot. Regardless, you do not need to be autistic over torque and RPM for general diy around the house

>>1820491
>general diy around the house
Amateur.

Point is for “general diy around the house” a drill/driver has far more utility.

But this is so stupid to argue over when combo packs are the norm now. You’ll pay more for just an impact that you would for it in a combo pack.

>>1820496
Yeah this. Especially with the sales and such that get put on every other month. Problem with impacts is having to buy all 1/4 hex shank drills. Pain in the ass when I can get cheap sets of conventional twist drills w/ round shanks for $7 at Christmas time.

>>1820505
And those hex shank bits only come in select sizes, cost more, and usually shorter, and more prone to breakage.

I picked this up:
https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Cordless-Driver-BDCDD12C/dp/B0111N8L7I

from costco in an all in one tool set. It's not going to build a house, but for 40 bucks it has given me a few years already of solid use. Built a few tables, basic repairs etc.

Has anybody bought a knockoff makita from aliexpress?

>>1820511
They are also prone to having terrible runout, even from the namebrands

>>1820565
What else would you expect from all that play in the loose fitting 1/4” hex chuck?

>>1820447
>The contractor I work for leases and assigns Hilti drills to us and they’re stout as fuck.

and whats the sticker price of those Hilti drills? is that a reasonable price for an everyday homeowner like OP working on small projects here and there? im sure your boss drives a 1-ton Dually work truck too but would you recommend one of those to someone that lives in a condo and "needs a truck" for the two times a year they go to Ikea?

>>1818863
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-MAX-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Drill-Driver-and-Impact-Combo-Kit-2-Tool-with-2-Batteries-1-3Ah-Charger-and-Bag-DCK240C2/204373168?mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-DEWALT-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-All_Products&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-DEWALT-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-All_Products-71700000065008272-58700005752181463-92700052424385128&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2PP1BRCiARIsAEqv-pQHgwq62RSnPzkmL0F3uSUST55RovmtXRGoZxvZqcAcnx5fDdh4AdoaAjWIEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Don’t waste your money on cheap shit.

>>1820466
>can't chuck any normal drill bits into it
>immediately rules out all specialty drill bits, cobalt bits, chamfer tools
>isn't even suited to drilling proper
>can't hammer drill
>can only get shitty low-grade hex taps for it
>and it breaks them
>can't use it with normal polishing tools
>sanding tools
>burr tools
>wirewheels
>"j-just buy 1000 hex adapters and search for hex versions of every already existing drill tool :'( Impacts are so much better I swear..."
Even you imply in your post that drills are more versatile, and they cost the same as an impact, so why the fuck are you telling people not to buy a drill?

>>1820637
>Don’t waste your money on cheap shit.
>recommends the cheapest junk set Dewalt has been shilling for the last decade

At least step up to their newer brushless combo kit.

>>1820864
Try using a 1 inch paddle bit with an impact.

>>1820573
I don’t know, I don’t pay for them. And I didn’t recommend Hilti for prosumer home DIY guys; that’s why I’m a Ridgid guy.

>>1820486
What kind of gaytarded pussy made this chart? I use holesaws on steel all the time

>>1820864
OP wants home owner tools, he doesn't need to buy top of the line
>>1820867
I have, works ok, but
>this kills the paddle bit

>>1820867
>ever using paddle bits in the first place when hole saws and forstner bits exist

>>1820997

Telegram for faggot.

self driving paddle bits will fucking ass rape a hole in a 2x4 faster than you can fucking chuck it up.

I'm gonna get some hate for this but the $15 harbor freight drillmaster drill is based as fuck. Just dont put a bigass bit or holesaw in it or else it will start smoking and eventually burn it out. I have two of them that I have TOURTURED to the point where smoke is billowing out of them and once they cool off they are just a little noisier. Or you know, pay $100 for a dewalt.

>>1821024
There are good tools at HF.
There’s also completely garbage.

Luckily the internet can tell you which Is which.

>>1819239
I will absolutely argue that corded hammer drills are worlds ahead or cordless ones, if you've ever had to drill concrete with lots of hard aggregate in it you would agree

>>1819834
It's fairly standard for corded Sawzalls to be 15 amp draw or 1800 watts, when your pulling one of the bigger blades through something like a full wall you may not need more power but ittl cut Hella slow and you'll definatly get bored of pulling the saw out of the cut to change batteries

>>1819733
Just put twist lock plugs on your shit or tie your cords like contractors have done for ever, that's some small brain shit there, even the fucking beaners know that shit

I've used just about every level of corded and cordless drill over the years and for the average guy a cheap one from home depot is plenty and can do almost anything around the house. If I was an electrician or finish carpenter id get in to Milwaukee and for general contracting Id get into dewalts. I think most drills are created equal as it relates to their dollar amount.

>>1821835
>they hated him because he spoke the truth

>>1820369
Get a made in japan brushless makita. I imported one and have been abusing it everyday rain or shine in dusty attics and under houses and it has been perfect.

>>1818863
Here check this out this write-up, could be helpful!
https://mygarage.tumblr.com/post/618363648686129152/drivers-for-dummies-a-newbie-guide-to-drills-and

>>1821835
I remember when i first started working with my dad when i was young, he had that old makita battery drill with the long oval battery in the handle and it still needed a chuck key. it was amazing when you were up 40' on a scissor lift.

most of the people on this board would be fine with that drill

>>1818863
Milwaukee , DeWalt and Makita all good and worth that extra money, Ryobi if you wanna save a little. Festool if you are made of money.

>>1822699
algebraically speaking if having festool means you are made of money, then having money means you are made of festool.

>>1821009
Im sure you do a lot of fine, high quality work my friend.

>>1822792
quality is subjective, a hole that your going to shove a pipe through doesn't need to be as pretty as a hole your going to put a cup hinge in. By your logic not having a diamond studded platinum toilet means you dont have a toilet worth using.

>>1822798
You can shit in a bucket a lot faster than it takes to open the lid and then flush a regular toilet.

>>1822825
usually there is a toilet closer than a bucket. Even on job sites, theres a port a jon right there. coupled with the fact that the receptacle in which you shit doesnt affect the speed of actual shitting, and then you would have to clean a bucket full of shit all point to one common denominator, your a retard that likes to drill holes in buckets with forstner bits and then shit in them.

god speed anon, you know your wrong just admit it.

>>1821395
Hammer drills are hammer drills, while there are big cordless ones, it's obviously just for small jobs, any serious work requires a corded one. My post was only about regular drills, some of them have a built-in hammer function (that is pretty shit).

I will also say that I have mixed 2 60lb bags of concrete with my dewalt battery powered hammerdrill. very impressive power

>>1818863

I like to read ToolGuy'd reviews, and the comments are informative too.

https://toolguyd.com/best-cordless-power-tool-brand/?utm_source=topmenu&utm_medium=web&utm_campaign=buying-guides

https://toolguyd.com/best-cordless-drills/?utm_source=topmenu&utm_medium=web&utm_campaign=buying-guides